@SHONEY21Z great, thanks. Yeah I read the manual and was more confused than helped...lol. Still a little better than some I've read for Swedish heavy equipment though...🙂
You removed the spark plug, installed a compression tester and turned the engine over to confirm compression. Then you removed the compression tester, reinstalled the spark plug, hooked up an inline spark tester, turned the engine over again to confirm spark. Then you began to address the condition of the fuel and mentioned you’d be working on the carb. During those procedures you turned the engine over twice without checking the oil first to confirm an adequate amount so as not to damage the engine or determine the presence of a fuel leak through the carb by smelling the oil. I would have done the oil check first. Then I would have inspected the fuel in the tank and the condition of the tank itself. Next I would have removed the spark plug, added some fuel into the cylinder, reinstalled the spark plug and turned the engine over. If the engine fired, then in one step I have confirmed airflow, compression, timing and spark. The only thing left is fuel, the one thing you suspected. At the same time that the spark plug is removed for testing, the plug can be inspected to provide an assessment of the running condition of the engine as well as confirm that the plug gap is correct.
Good points. I don’t always show everything I do on a snowblower because the videos would be long. Always a good idea to check for oil, as I always do but wing it ran for 3 seconds by spraying fuel in the intake it wouldn’t hurt anything. The fact that I heard no fuel being squeezed up into the intake took my mind right to clogged main jet. Since I’ve worked in hundreds of snowblowers, it’s usually pretty simple. But you never know, it’s not always the carb. I’ve seen valves out of spec, bad coils, kill switch shorted, electric start teeth stuck in the ring gear, broken rods, wrong spark plugs, you name it. Thanks for the tip!
@@SHONEY21Z You’re welcome! The rest of the video was great, especially the tip about removing the carb with the intake intact. I purchase needle seats in bulk and automatically replace them just because they’re so cheap and so easy to remove and install with the Tecumseh tool. 👍
![Full Detailed Tecumseh Snowblower 640349 Carburetor Clean and Rebuild [4k]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qosfyLG0Yuk/mqdefault.jpg)
Very helpful, thank you very much!
And thank you for commenting!
Just found and subscribed to your channel! Thanks!
Thank you my man. Keep up the good work saving the 🐝
Do you have a video showing how to set the throttle and governor linkage on a tecumseh?
I don’t. Donyboy the small engine doctor does I’m pretty sure. They are a pain. There are YT videos available if you can’t find donyboy’s
@SHONEY21Z great, thanks. Yeah I read the manual and was more confused than helped...lol.
Still a little better than some I've read for Swedish heavy equipment though...🙂
You removed the spark plug, installed a compression tester and turned the engine over to confirm compression. Then you removed the compression tester, reinstalled the spark plug, hooked up an inline spark tester, turned the engine over again to confirm spark. Then you began to address the condition of the fuel and mentioned you’d be working on the carb.
During those procedures you turned the engine over twice without checking the oil first to confirm an adequate amount so as not to damage the engine or determine the presence of a fuel leak through the carb by smelling the oil.
I would have done the oil check first. Then I would have inspected the fuel in the tank and the condition of the tank itself. Next I would have removed the spark plug, added some fuel into the cylinder, reinstalled the spark plug and turned the engine over. If the engine fired, then in one step I have confirmed airflow, compression, timing and spark. The only thing left is fuel, the one thing you suspected.
At the same time that the spark plug is removed for testing, the plug can be inspected to provide an assessment of the running condition of the engine as well as confirm that the plug gap is correct.
Good points. I don’t always show everything I do on a snowblower because the videos would be long. Always a good idea to check for oil, as I always do but wing it ran for 3 seconds by spraying fuel in the intake it wouldn’t hurt anything. The fact that I heard no fuel being squeezed up into the intake took my mind right to clogged main jet. Since I’ve worked in hundreds of snowblowers, it’s usually pretty simple. But you never know, it’s not always the carb. I’ve seen valves out of spec, bad coils, kill switch shorted, electric start teeth stuck in the ring gear, broken rods, wrong spark plugs, you name it. Thanks for the tip!
@@SHONEY21Z
You’re welcome! The rest of the video was great, especially the tip about removing the carb with the intake intact.
I purchase needle seats in bulk and automatically replace them just because they’re so cheap and so easy to remove and install with the Tecumseh tool. 👍
I’ve replaced them many times and the tool comes in handy for sure.