Wow! You guys are doing a great job! I just found your Channel today and watched your first video. It is amazing the progress that has been made. If you guys had to hire out every one of the repairs and renovation jobs, it would probably run you in the Millions. Or close to it.
Thanks so much! It’s incredible to look back at some of our early videos to see just how far we’ve come. It definitely would have cost a fortune to have someone else do all the work.
1:30 Those testers are called Widow Makers. They are called that because you don't know if they are working. Unless you test it on an known live circuit EACH AND EVERY TIME YOU USE IT
Chris it might be better to take the 2 ground wires and twist them together with another 6 inch bare wire then put a yellow #33 marrette for all three. Then take the end and put under the green screw. Wrap under screw clockwise. I've also seen a lot of these wires loosen up when pushed in the back of the outlet. Doing the same thing with the black and white wires as the ground then putting them under the screw of the brass and silver screws works better for me also. I also wrap some electrical tape around the outlet protecting the brass and silver screws from shorting out. You can also get deep outlet boxes for the marrettes to sit easily in the back of the outlets inside the box. GFCI's can be a pain if not in deep boxes. BTW if you put the first line side of the wire on the line side of the GFCI it proects everything down from the load side of the outlet. You don't have to use another GFCI from that point. Saves a few bucks..
I have to correct myself. With the wire for the line side on the first outlet that has to go on the line side of the outlet and the wire going downstream to the next outlet goes on the load side. Then you can use regular outlets( protection is covered from the GFCI) on the next outlets and you can use all the screws which are the brass and silver. Brass for black and silver for white. Saves money by not buying more GFCI's.
Thanks for the feedback! I totally forgot to mention that the downstream outlets wired from the Load side of the GFCI will be covered by the GFCI as well. I do like using an extra wire for the ground sometimes. Space was the biggest limiting factor with that tiny metal box. I tape the screws a lot of the times too. I just forgot to on this one. Thankfully, back-wiring allows the screws to go all the way flush with the sides of the outlet so you get enough clearance.
Wow! You guys are doing a great job! I just found your Channel today and watched your first video. It is amazing the progress that has been made. If you guys had to hire out every one of the repairs and renovation jobs, it would probably run you in the Millions. Or close to it.
Thanks so much! It’s incredible to look back at some of our early videos to see just how far we’ve come. It definitely would have cost a fortune to have someone else do all the work.
1:30 Those testers are called Widow Makers. They are called that because you don't know if they are working. Unless you test it on an known live circuit EACH AND EVERY TIME YOU USE IT
Great tip!
4:05 Don't ever use those back holes. Always hook the wire around the screw so it can never come off.
They do work nice in tight boxes
Chris it might be better to take the 2 ground wires and twist them together with another 6 inch bare wire then put a yellow #33 marrette for all three. Then take the end and put under the green screw. Wrap under screw clockwise. I've also seen a lot of these wires loosen up when pushed in the back of the outlet. Doing the same thing with the black and white wires as the ground then putting them under the screw of the brass and silver screws works better for me also. I also wrap some electrical tape around the outlet protecting the brass and silver screws from shorting out. You can also get deep outlet boxes for the marrettes to sit easily in the back of the outlets inside the box. GFCI's can be a pain if not in deep boxes. BTW if you put the first line side of the wire on the line side of the GFCI it proects everything down from the load side of the outlet. You don't have to use another GFCI from that point. Saves a few bucks..
I have to correct myself. With the wire for the line side on the first outlet that has to go on the line side of the outlet and the wire going downstream to the next outlet goes on the load side. Then you can use regular outlets( protection is covered from the GFCI) on the next outlets and you can use all the screws which are the brass and silver. Brass for black and silver for white. Saves money by not buying more GFCI's.
Thanks for the feedback! I totally forgot to mention that the downstream outlets wired from the Load side of the GFCI will be covered by the GFCI as well. I do like using an extra wire for the ground sometimes. Space was the biggest limiting factor with that tiny metal box. I tape the screws a lot of the times too. I just forgot to on this one. Thankfully, back-wiring allows the screws to go all the way flush with the sides of the outlet so you get enough clearance.
Unless you are breaking the tab off to separate the receptacle NEVER use the top screws. Always pigtail the wires.
I’ve never heard of doing that with a GFCI outlet. Would it still trip with a fault in one of the downstream outlets?
As we say at work.. White to brass will knock you on your A@@
Hahahaha that’s a good one!
Do not put an outlet in your shower under any circumstances.
Agreed!