When drawing round a back box it is easier to turn it around so the sharp edges are against the wall and stops the box from moving as it digs into the wall a little.
Greetings from the US. Interesting to see how things are done “across the pond”! I like how simple and modular the sockets and switches look. We do a lot more splicing with wire nuts at each box. They look lighter weight too than what we use, which makes sense. Not surprised to see that being an electrician in the UK also means that you still need knowledge outside the trade, with plastering and painting as well. I always say that it’s a trade that requires you to be very well rounded to excel. Thanks.
Another great video, very well explained. When you removed the existing socket and the wires were temporary exposed for a short while, instead of wrapping the ends in tape, I put a wago connector on the end of eash wire, much easier to remove than tape and possibly safer. Keep making your great videos.
THANK YOU..- a proper straight to the point, short demo video. Without need for chatting & faffing irrelevant stuff just for ego.... Seriously appreciate your direct approach, much needed on TH-cam! Do you do instruction/ courses at all as I'd really value your concise presentation, I'm looking to skill up 'all round' general skills around diy/ fixing things, more for life skills than as trade, pls advise
Hello, this is actually unbelievable, good clear content, instructions and advice. TH-cam has needed a decent DIY channel for a VERY long time and I think it finally has one, also you're a great presenter which is rare in this genre. Look forward to watching more content. It's especially good that this is UK based as much of the bigger channels are in the US and it's not always easy to know what applies to the UK and Europe especially with electrics. Great stuff.
Good work with fitting the grommets, Stuart, this is very important. As a qualified electrician, I must say this does get forgotten about/ not done at all.
Watching this video with absolute wall envy! I have a cottage bungalow built in the early 1700s... our walls don't look like that! A 'simple' picture hanging takes a rented jackhammer just to make a small dent! Haha!
Great simple video. Both back boxes being metal really should be earthed. I liked the way the back box was bonded rather than screwed to the wall. Going back to back you may drill through the box on the other side so this prevents this.
Another excellent video thanks Stuart. One word of warning about installing socket outlets back to back; if the wall is thin it can be a good idea to remove one of the side knock outs and drill at a shallow angle so the new socket is offset, i.e. not directly back to back. Chopping in a new 35mm box can result in a big hole with nothing to fix to. Similarly using screws and plugs to fix the back box in a thin wall can lead to drilling right through the original back box and socket.
@@johnadams1976 Hi John, you would always hope so but speaking as a 'mature' electrician, I've seen quite a few very small serving hatches created by individuals who didn't check first.
Love your videos. No time-wasting la-di-da just straight to the point(s). Technical question.......how do you establish that the socket you are taking the spur from is not a spur itself rather than a ring main socket?
Fab video - def consider if you don't need it recessed is going for a low profile surface mounted socket, or if you do go recessed you go off alignment so both back boxes are not directly back to back. Going slightly up (higher) the other side reduces any risk of damage to the power feed to the original socket when taking out the wall material. Perfect timing on this one though as I'm needing to add a few spurs!
Another good and useful video - you're building up quite a library here. One little point: when you forget something, like the grommet, it could be useful to add in a clearer shot of what you should have done... This might help the rookies, who might never have seen a grommet before, to clearly understand what you later did...
The new MK socket use Wago like connectors... that is awesome. Having experienced a short that marked the wall and an interesting time connecting what was left of the wire due to come one not putting a rubber grommet in a metal back box... put the grommet it. I used a couple of layers of insulating tape as a fix until I got the grommet and had to clean down and repaint a freshly painted wall all because the person that owned this house previously couldn't be bothered to do the job properly.
Come on Dewalt, surely a missed opportunity to get your multitool into Stuart’s hands!! As I continue working through your vids mate it’s increasingly spooky just how many of your jobs I’ve also done the last 12 months or so. I do admire your attention to detail around the edges and the painting. As soon as I realised the plastic cover overlapped by a good 8mm or so I just left the jagged cut edge of the plasterboard based on the premise of what lies beneath will never be seen. In reality im just a lazy old sod!
Love your videos. I am the head of our neighborhood watch scheme and we have a community of new builds of young home owners. I always share your videos to help us new home owners to save a penny. A potential future video idea that has come up quite often. How to replace a composite front door canopy , alot of us seem fed up with the cheap ones the developer put on.
love the envelope stuck to the wall tip. i shall be using them and the new type of socket - though will be going to a new build so shouldn't need to anything like that!
I really like the trick with the filler I will use that next time I need to add a socket. Unfortunately our walls are very hard and many an hour had been spent chiselling and grinding to chase in sockets. I think on a cost basis I would only use those new MK sockets if there was good to be three cables. I can just about manage with two.
Best way to stick socket boxes in is to used expanding foam cause it gets in all the gaps and holes and around the sides so it’s completely stuck once solid. Also mix of bonding plaster and cement works well too!!
Hi Stuart. Thanks for the video. I wasn't initially looking for this content as I'm sat on the loo channel hopping, but saw 'Proper DIY' & knew it would be worth watching. I never knew it would be so simple to fit a spur socket. I'm a general handyman (but obviously not that handy!) & take on most jobs I feel confident with, so thank you for the instruction.
Great video! I have no idea why the metal back box on the existing socket was painted inside as it’s never going to be seen by anyone but did a good job there! One trick I have for you is instead of using filler to stick the box in use expanding foam adhesive and you can cut it back and put some filler on round the edges - it really does work well cause it gets into all the awkward gaps where you haven’t applied filler in your case and makes it more rock solid, done it for years and works really well!
All of our metal back boxes are painted, it’s easier and cheaper to spray a room rather than roller it. The finish is awful but Developers don’t care about that.
Only problem with expanding foam imo, is that it is expanding foam XD. It has a tendency to expand out of the cavities, stick to everything around, solidify in the applicator nozzle if you don't use it often etc. I'm sure that if you are a regular user and experienced at judging the quantity etc then this is a fine technique but for a one off DIY job, not so much.
@@kevinbarton98 Luckily ours thought to put some gaff tape over them before spraying ... you're right though the paint finish is terrible. Rub it with your finger and you expose bare plaster!!
Another fantastic video Stuart, you have such a considered approach with calm collected attitude, speaks to my hash bash approach, taking ones time and thinking before you progress is a important aspect to your work… keep up the great work.. I look forward to every video. More!!
Great video, I used a makita multi tool to cut into the wall, found that very easy and neat. Although that was cutting through lime and soft clay brick, might not work on harder material 🙂
I'd welcome advice on the way to recess an old surface mounted pull switch on a vaulted ceiling into the wall/ceiling using an appropriate pattress box designed for a stud type vaulted ceiling/wall.
Nice video - thanks. Just a few of tips for anyone thinking of doing similar. Metal boxes can be used in stud walls. I have some in my house, for whatever reason the builder preferred to fit metal boxes on noggins in the stud wall rather than plasterboard boxes after the boards are up. Peek through the screw holes in the existing box to see. You can also often judge the wall construction by looking how wide the door lining is. Blocks + dot and dab are thicker than studs. Cutting out a neat box - an oscillating saw is great for this. I've done this with metal boxes and the socket is wide enough to cover any minor gaps as you say - no filling/painting required if you're careful and lucky. If laying 1 cable, often it is better to lay 2, and add the new socket to the ring. Join the other cable with ideal splice connectors or any other connector rated at 32A in the back of the original socket. If you're on a stud wall, you may even be able to pull 1 leg through to your new socket and avoid the connectors. Your auto wire strippers should be great at removing the outer sleeve on the T&E cable. Rather than the knife and cheesewire earth method. You mush share your trick of instantly aligning the screw with the lug on the back box when re-fitting the socket. That's the bit that usually takes me a few attempts and a bit of language to persuade it to engage :) Loving your videos - thanks again.
Lectrician friend uses a reciprocating tool that makes an excellent edge… he keeps all the old 1.5 inch wood blades, it deals with block work with ease… a no go on brick.
"i'm using my trusty damaged screwdriver for this, which comes in handy for so many jobs. if you don't have a damaged screwdriver then use a normal one and it will be damaged soon enough.." HAHAHAHAHA! man you made my day right there!
A reason for not using widow maker screwdrivers how do you know the lamp inside it hasn't blown? Also other than that socket tester which only tells you the wiring matches, what testing did you do? Also I'm guessing your not bothered about any paperwork?
Decent video. I’ve been told that the earth wire should be trimmed longer than live and neutral. It makes sense to me, safety wise ( if the cable gets accidentally yanked, you want earth to be the last cable to remain) but I don’t know if that still applies to modern circuits with modern regulations and wiring.
Love every video on the channel, always great stuff! Could you do a video on how you'd run a channel in the plasterboard? For example if you wanted to extend this ring in the same room (no socket on the other side of the wall) and had to run a 5ft twin and earth?
Nice video. Not a criticism at all, but I'd suggest getting one of the good Voltage Pens and dump the Neon Screwdriver Voltage Tester. I too used those for years, so am no role model! But, I eventually switched to a FLUKE VoltAlert 1AC-E II, and I now just trust that a lot more. I then reluctantly junked my little pile of similar Neon Testers or, on one I still like to use as a small Screwdriver, I just removed the insides and left a little visible note inside where the Neon bit used to live, to tell anyone, myself included, that it no longer has any Test ability and nothing whatsoever left inside that can conduct from the tip to the handle end! To be totally safe, I should have junked that too, but I know it's no longer capable of conducting and it was an old friend! Fully understand the ease of use of the Neon, but there remains that 1000:1 possibility that the Neon bit has elected to stop working, right on a day when a wire could be live for what ever reason (even after using a Voltage Plug, such as someone flicking a PCB back on without realising you were busy and no PCB Lock was used). Likewise, and probably the worst aspect, is it depends on the pink human bit to test, which is perhaps not ideal! The Voltage Pens flash when working, and peep when being switched off, and you can test them on something known-to-be-live just before use, and be more certain nothing is live, because the Voltage Pen flashes to tell you it is still active and working whilst being used. Unlike the Neon, which only lights up with a current and if it's still working. I know they are not cheap, I think I got mine for around £17, but have seen them as high as £29, so they can be expensive if you don't shop around. Don't shoot the messenger!
As a novice I have never had much luck in geting those screwdrivers to light up consistently. The £8 pen I use, remove the batteries when not in use, lights up on the outside of a live kettle lead, something that doesn't register with a screwdriver.
Instead of making this a spur, could it not be added into the ring curate by extending one of the cables that were already in the box and connecting that to the new socket, and then running the other cable back into the box and connecting that to the old socket?
Another really helpful (and amusing) video. Re cutting out the space for the back box, would you ever consider using a multi tool with blade? They’re a godsend for straight tidy lines 👍🏼
To get the pattress box dead flush with the surface of the wall, put a strip of wide but thin wood (a bit of wide beading) across the front of the box, overhanging each end of the box, held in place with the screws that usually hold the socket in place, and put the box into the hole in the wall. When the strip of wood is tight against the surface of the wall, the pattress box is level with surface of the wall.
For the socket, there are three spots for each color, is there any rules for which one goes as a set? I noticed you were randomly inserting. Ground is probably fine, how about the other two?
Just to say. If you have an oscillating multitool then you can cut the hole out perfectly and not need to fill around the sides as the 1mm slot will be covered by the socket facia. And if you don't have a multitool I would highly recommend getting one. It's the only thing to get me out of bed in a morning.
The problem you face spuring off a ring main is that they often aren’t complete. This could end up causing excessive strain on certain legs of the ring. Worth getting an electrician in if it’s an older ring circuit as the chances is that there’s been some Bodging over the years.
the link for the MK Rapid Fix Socket doesn't work. Doesn't look like Amazon have them. Screw fix and RS do have them in stock. Thanks for the video. I wanted to do this for a couple of sockets for extra power in the house.
Thanks Stuart - your videos always make good Friday night viewing 👍🏻 I especially like your electrical videos as it gives me the confidence to have a go.
As an apprentice who doesn't work in houses is there a reason one of the legs couldnt of gone through and the new cable put through to complete the ring instead of the 3 cables at one point, honest answers cheers
Just bought my first house and looking to do some DIY like this. My question is, does your new socket require your older socket to be switched on before it works?
Are you reading my mind? Just what I've contemplated doing next after installing new euro-lock! Great video didn't know about those new MK sockets, will look for those. Thanks for great info, cheers.
No not really. The professionals don't install them and with the earth bar at the back of the socket reaching around and making contact with the backbox it is earthed once screwed into place. See the pinned top comment.
Hi Great Video and detailed explanation , I have one question, if you or anyone expert can answer. I think my Thermostat is blown on my Under Floor Heating. I am going to replace the thermostat. This was installed by builders and is powered from RCD to a 45A double pole switch then on to Thermostat. I think not right.??. Can you suggest the safe approach for the spur. Do I use 13A fused double pole switch or 20A double pole switch. UFH for 12.3 sqm and reading resistance 29ohms & 1722W . Just need clarification please. Many thanks. BM
Thanks you for your video, very informative. Can i please ask how do i know if there is any electrical wiring, piping etc... behind the wall when im drilling?, This is perhaps the biggest reason why i dont like drilling into the walls in my house. Its a big problem for me as i need to repair many things
Much comes down to skill and experience, however you will do just fine if you use your senses and some common sense. Take a look on both sides of the wall or area you're working on, are there any electrical outlets, plumbing or heating. Tap the wall, does it sound hollow, there might be cables or pipes. Are there bulges or hollows where things might be patched over. Are you drilling directly horizontal or vertical to an electrical accessory? When drilling, you should feel the change from plaster to the substrate, and nothing else. Use a bradawl before drilling holes. If walls are plasterboard or studwork, you may avoid using power tools if pipes and cables concern you so much. Theres plenty of fixings can be installed with hand tools, you dont need to go blasting everything with a battery drill!
Those Neón screw drivers are all well and good but the reason why they are ground on is that they are not an approved method to test for presence of voltage. Firstly they are not GS38 compliant. Secondly the only thing that is stopping you from receiving an electric shock is a resistor. Videos like these is what makes DIY Dave say “My ‘lectrics work” yes Dave but are they safe? Have you tested it? But you keep doing what you do
Great videos i have a staircase with 1 light downstairs hall and 1 light landing, downstairs light 1 for down stairs light hall has 2 switches 1 for up stairs is it possible to make both lights come on together?
Another great video. Like the honest comment about neon screwdrivers. See electricians having a go about them but as you say they're sold everywhere. They're ideal for those of us doing electrics every now and then. Like the rapid fix socket too, not used them yet. 👍
Electricians, and anyone employed, have to comply with the Electricity at work regulations. As an industry we are trying to improve the safety culture through the use of proper equipment and best practice.
@@ProperDIY sometimes some sparkies will give out grief to DIYers as they have seen lots of things that are bad and tar the DIYers with that brush. The problem with the neon screwdrivers and the contactless mains indicators are they rely on you to provide the capacitance to work. I believe if you are well insulated then they don’t indicate and you could have live where it says there isn’t. Given you’re working with 32 amps at this point you are then relying on the rcd to save your life. Most people don’t test their RCDs at the advised rate and how many have had them checked regularly? When your life is a stake then relying on luck is risky. If one is working with mains electricity then a proving unit and proper tools and processes could well save your life, so a small price to pay. A neon screwdriver is better than having nothing, but having the tools the pros use is best. Still nice video and a great channel, you could always do a video about proving units and safe isolation.
My dad was a sparky and, whilst he used one, he never fully trusted his neon screwdriver. He taught me to always test it on the live socket first, then turn off the power at the consumer unit and then test the same socket again with the neon. As an aside, he also pulled out the fuse for the relevant ring-main as well as flicking off the switch - he call this his "making sure he got home for supper" tip, whereas nowadays I guess it's called best practice... Great vids that I passed on to by DIY son, too.
Hi, how would you go about adding plug sockets to a loft where there are none nearby? would it be significantly more expensive? just can't get my head around how you would get the electric cables from downstairs to upstairs
Another great video. My house is older with hard bricks (no fun stitch drilling) and previous owners have extended stuff, the wiring is a tad confusing now, lovely to work on a newer job. Side note, when I did my electrical installation studying in the late 90s, the tutor told us you shouldn't pull the earth through the sleeve to open it up as it has the potential to stretch the earth, narrowing its cross sectional area, but as you've done, is as I do, I suspect he was being extra cautious with new students.
I know what it's like in a house with hard bricks - a lot more work and noise. I think the 'using the earth to rip the insulation' is now taught - better than cutting through the insulation.
@@johnrich6928 They actually make a cable stripper which does the outer sheath. Also worth mentioning it looks like the days of traditional pvc twin and earth are numbered, and its all going to be a low smoke version, either LSF or LSOH, both of which are a bitch to strip by pulling the earth core.
@@idi0tdetectioninprogress I've seen the strippers in action and being a DIYer and lover of tools want them, but I can't justify them now, all the wiring is done, just decorating to keep on top of.... but my kids have their own houses now, so just maybe.... but regs are regs!
@@johnrich6928 Each to their own, some are tool mad, and thats ok. Personally if youre a diy'er i wouldn't bother. Stick with a carefully used knife or pull the earth core. If the cables are at room temp its really not an issue, too many drama llamas in the electrical trade now. Its terminating 3 phase distribution boards and commercial second fix where LSF is murder on the hands. Domestically you should still be meeting traditional pvc for a while yet.
Would we be able to do something similar passing an ethernet cable through the wall with an rj45 socket /backbox either side? My Internet modem comes into the living room and my spare room (office) is directly behind. Looking to get a wired ethernet connection into the spare room and this seems like a good option.
No doubting the experience and expertise of this great guy , however is all the work involved in this task worth the effort for the sake of a lamp on a table in the other room ?????
I expect to be in this house for many years. I think it's worth spending a few hours over a weekend doing this so I can use it for every more. This is what us DIY'er do!
Try that in some of the older homes here in MS! MSEC is the absolute pits! Its almost like listening to children fighting over which outlet they can stick their finger in. On the other hand, the NEC is miles higher and and much safer.
Why didn’t you earth the new metal back box to the new double socket ?
There is sometimes no need for a fly led from the back box as the earth connection in the socket which earths the screws and thus the back box.
Because it doesn't need it. With modern sockets the earth runs around to the screw holes and connects to the back box when you screw it on.
I’m a qualified spark, you don’t need to run a fly lead to the back box 👍🏼
@@ukmal67r81 It's good practice to do it and takes no effort and if both lugs aren't fixed it's recommened.
@@solidus784 I'm a diyer so forgive me but if at least once lug isn't fixed, aren't you then required to earth the box?
Thanks for such a simple video mate. An electrician quoted me £120 to do this. I did it myself exactly as you’ve done here in about 45 minutes.
Thanks man, that’s given me the confidence to screw up a similar project slightly less than I would have done otherwise! Nice edit and well presented.
When drawing round a back box it is easier to turn it around so the sharp edges are against the wall and stops the box from moving as it digs into the wall a little.
Just popping out to buy a new screwdriver so I too can make a damaged one. Great tip, thank you 🙏🏼.
Nice one!
This is a great tip I've always followed. If you go to Poundland you can get a decent set of screwdrivers just for this purpose.
That got me too 😂🤣
Ah man that absolutely cracked me up
"if you don't have a damaged screwdriver, then just use a normal one and it will be damaged soon enough" - that had me in stitches
Greetings from the US. Interesting to see how things are done “across the pond”! I like how simple and modular the sockets and switches look. We do a lot more splicing with wire nuts at each box. They look lighter weight too than what we use, which makes sense. Not surprised to see that being an electrician in the UK also means that you still need knowledge outside the trade, with plastering and painting as well. I always say that it’s a trade that requires you to be very well rounded to excel. Thanks.
He’s not an electrician please do not use this man as an example he just know enough to be dangerous
Mate, don't watch this diy'er. Sure at 14:56 there was no earth bridged to socket. Literally people could get a shock by switching it on.
@@huntingtimes5474 Incorrect . The switch is grounded .
Another great video, very well explained. When you removed the existing socket and the wires were temporary exposed for a short while, instead of wrapping the ends in tape, I put a wago connector on the end of eash wire, much easier to remove than tape and possibly safer. Keep making your great videos.
THANK YOU..- a proper straight to the point, short demo video. Without need for chatting & faffing irrelevant stuff just for ego.... Seriously appreciate your direct approach, much needed on TH-cam!
Do you do instruction/ courses at all as I'd really value your concise presentation, I'm looking to skill up 'all round' general skills around diy/ fixing things, more for life skills than as trade, pls advise
Hello, this is actually unbelievable, good clear content, instructions and advice. TH-cam has needed a decent DIY channel for a VERY long time and I think it finally has one, also you're a great presenter which is rare in this genre. Look forward to watching more content. It's especially good that this is UK based as much of the bigger channels are in the US and it's not always easy to know what applies to the UK and Europe especially with electrics. Great stuff.
Good work with fitting the grommets, Stuart, this is very important.
As a qualified electrician, I must say this does get forgotten about/ not done at all.
Watching this video with absolute wall envy!
I have a cottage bungalow built in the early 1700s... our walls don't look like that!
A 'simple' picture hanging takes a rented jackhammer just to make a small dent! Haha!
I'm sorry to hear that- I've had the same in other properties and everything take a lot more work
Great simple video. Both back boxes being metal really should be earthed. I liked the way the back box was bonded rather than screwed to the wall. Going back to back you may drill through the box on the other side so this prevents this.
Nothing flashy, it’s almost an idiots guide which is the best way to show people. Impressed 👍
Another excellent video thanks Stuart. One word of warning about installing socket outlets back to back; if the wall is thin it can be a good idea to remove one of the side knock outs and drill at a shallow angle so the new socket is offset, i.e. not directly back to back. Chopping in a new 35mm box can result in a big hole with nothing to fix to. Similarly using screws and plugs to fix the back box in a thin wall can lead to drilling right through the original back box and socket.
Easy to avoid though as he'll no doubt have noted the thickness of the wall when he drilled. I don't see this as a problem
@@johnadams1976 Hi John, you would always hope so but speaking as a 'mature' electrician, I've seen quite a few very small serving hatches created by individuals who didn't check first.
Love your videos. No time-wasting la-di-da just straight to the point(s). Technical question.......how do you establish that the socket you are taking the spur from is not a spur itself rather than a ring main socket?
Anybody?......Anybody?......
Thank you for this video i didn't realise they did these Fast fix sockets, made life so much easier.
Just used for a refresher to install one after years of not having done it. Really useful, thanks!
Fab video - def consider if you don't need it recessed is going for a low profile surface mounted socket, or if you do go recessed you go off alignment so both back boxes are not directly back to back. Going slightly up (higher) the other side reduces any risk of damage to the power feed to the original socket when taking out the wall material.
Perfect timing on this one though as I'm needing to add a few spurs!
Another good and useful video - you're building up quite a library here.
One little point: when you forget something, like the grommet, it could be useful to add in a clearer shot of what you should have done... This might help the rookies, who might never have seen a grommet before, to clearly understand what you later did...
I always use block connectors to separate my wires while doing the same electrical job Stuart. Thanks for the video.👍👍
The new MK socket use Wago like connectors... that is awesome.
Having experienced a short that marked the wall and an interesting time connecting what was left of the wire due to come one not putting a rubber grommet in a metal back box... put the grommet it. I used a couple of layers of insulating tape as a fix until I got the grommet and had to clean down and repaint a freshly painted wall all because the person that owned this house previously couldn't be bothered to do the job properly.
Nice video, Important to mention for anyone watching that has an old consumer unit, that an RCD is a requirement for new sockets.
Come on Dewalt, surely a missed opportunity to get your multitool into Stuart’s hands!! As I continue working through your vids mate it’s increasingly spooky just how many of your jobs I’ve also done the last 12 months or so. I do admire your attention to detail around the edges and the painting. As soon as I realised the plastic cover overlapped by a good 8mm or so I just left the jagged cut edge of the plasterboard based on the premise of what lies beneath will never be seen. In reality im just a lazy old sod!
Love your videos. I am the head of our neighborhood watch scheme and we have a community of new builds of young home owners. I always share your videos to help us new home owners to save a penny. A potential future video idea that has come up quite often. How to replace a composite front door canopy , alot of us seem fed up with the cheap ones the developer put on.
love the envelope stuck to the wall tip. i shall be using them and the new type of socket - though will be going to a new build so shouldn't need to anything like that!
I really like the trick with the filler I will use that next time I need to add a socket. Unfortunately our walls are very hard and many an hour had been spent chiselling and grinding to chase in sockets. I think on a cost basis I would only use those new MK sockets if there was good to be three cables. I can just about manage with two.
Best way to stick socket boxes in is to used expanding foam cause it gets in all the gaps and holes and around the sides so it’s completely stuck once solid. Also mix of bonding plaster and cement works well too!!
Fantastic advice on how to create a damaged screwdriver. I will have a toolbox full of them soon. 👍
Go for it!
Hi Stuart.
Thanks for the video. I wasn't initially looking for this content as I'm sat on the loo channel hopping, but saw 'Proper DIY' & knew it would be worth watching. I never knew it would be so simple to fit a spur socket. I'm a general handyman (but obviously not that handy!) & take on most jobs I feel confident with, so thank you for the instruction.
Glad you like it
Great video! I have no idea why the metal back box on the existing socket was painted inside as it’s never going to be seen by anyone but did a good job there! One trick I have for you is instead of using filler to stick the box in use expanding foam adhesive and you can cut it back and put some filler on round the edges - it really does work well cause it gets into all the awkward gaps where you haven’t applied filler in your case and makes it more rock solid, done it for years and works really well!
Thanks. Yes I can see that working well - have to try that next time!
I wondered that about the paint too, then wondered if the room had been spray painted and the back box was just exposed at the time
All of our metal back boxes are painted, it’s easier and cheaper to spray a room rather than roller it. The finish is awful but Developers don’t care about that.
Only problem with expanding foam imo, is that it is expanding foam XD. It has a tendency to expand out of the cavities, stick to everything around, solidify in the applicator nozzle if you don't use it often etc. I'm sure that if you are a regular user and experienced at judging the quantity etc then this is a fine technique but for a one off DIY job, not so much.
@@kevinbarton98 Luckily ours thought to put some gaff tape over them before spraying ... you're right though the paint finish is terrible. Rub it with your finger and you expose bare plaster!!
"Blobs"...a highly technical word I like to use a lot. ...lol, Great video as usual Stuart.
Glad you enjoyed it
Another fantastic video Stuart, you have such a considered approach with calm collected attitude, speaks to my hash bash approach, taking ones time and thinking before you progress is a important aspect to your work… keep up the great work.. I look forward to every video. More!!
Thank you kindly - very nice to get positive comments - thank you.
Great video, I used a makita multi tool to cut into the wall, found that very easy and neat. Although that was cutting through lime and soft clay brick, might not work on harder material 🙂
Great tip!
I'd welcome advice on the way to recess an old surface mounted pull switch on a vaulted ceiling into the wall/ceiling using an appropriate pattress box designed for a stud type vaulted ceiling/wall.
Nice video - thanks. Just a few of tips for anyone thinking of doing similar.
Metal boxes can be used in stud walls. I have some in my house, for whatever reason the builder preferred to fit metal boxes on noggins in the stud wall rather than plasterboard boxes after the boards are up. Peek through the screw holes in the existing box to see.
You can also often judge the wall construction by looking how wide the door lining is. Blocks + dot and dab are thicker than studs.
Cutting out a neat box - an oscillating saw is great for this. I've done this with metal boxes and the socket is wide enough to cover any minor gaps as you say - no filling/painting required if you're careful and lucky.
If laying 1 cable, often it is better to lay 2, and add the new socket to the ring. Join the other cable with ideal splice connectors or any other connector rated at 32A in the back of the original socket. If you're on a stud wall, you may even be able to pull 1 leg through to your new socket and avoid the connectors.
Your auto wire strippers should be great at removing the outer sleeve on the T&E cable. Rather than the knife and cheesewire earth method.
You mush share your trick of instantly aligning the screw with the lug on the back box when re-fitting the socket. That's the bit that usually takes me a few attempts and a bit of language to persuade it to engage :)
Loving your videos - thanks again.
Such a clear and well spoken commentary. Thank you.
Thank you very much
Good video. Very clear and easily understandable.
But you should get an oscillating multi food for cuting out plaster, they're brilliant.
watching from the USA enjoyed the video. our plug Sockets don't have switches on them. and ours are smaller. great video i just subbed
Lectrician friend uses a reciprocating tool that makes an excellent edge… he keeps all the old 1.5 inch wood blades, it deals with block work with ease… a no go on brick.
Can you please show how to connect two new sockets from one ring main socket as a spur from the original socket with the protection you describe?
Another informative video! Only comment is the music “When I’m sleeping with someone new, I close my eyes and think of you…” but different I guess 😂
"i'm using my trusty damaged screwdriver for this, which comes in handy for so many jobs. if you don't have a damaged screwdriver then use a normal one and it will be damaged soon enough.." HAHAHAHAHA! man you made my day right there!
A reason for not using widow maker screwdrivers how do you know the lamp inside it hasn't blown? Also other than that socket tester which only tells you the wiring matches, what testing did you do? Also I'm guessing your not bothered about any paperwork?
Decent video. I’ve been told that the earth wire should be trimmed longer than live and neutral. It makes sense to me, safety wise ( if the cable gets accidentally yanked, you want earth to be the last cable to remain) but I don’t know if that still applies to modern circuits with modern regulations and wiring.
In a plug yes
Love every video on the channel, always great stuff! Could you do a video on how you'd run a channel in the plasterboard? For example if you wanted to extend this ring in the same room (no socket on the other side of the wall) and had to run a 5ft twin and earth?
Nice one...so glad you remembered the grommets. Those MK Rapid fix sockets look great.
Thanks 👍
Nice video. Simple informations, nice watching, good voice and great music (Someone New). I like it a lot. Thank you.
Hi love the vid very informative, just wondering why did the original socket have 2 Live, Neutral and Earth cables? Thanks
Nice video. Not a criticism at all, but I'd suggest getting one of the good Voltage Pens and dump the Neon Screwdriver Voltage Tester. I too used those for years, so am no role model! But, I eventually switched to a FLUKE VoltAlert 1AC-E II, and I now just trust that a lot more. I then reluctantly junked my little pile of similar Neon Testers or, on one I still like to use as a small Screwdriver, I just removed the insides and left a little visible note inside where the Neon bit used to live, to tell anyone, myself included, that it no longer has any Test ability and nothing whatsoever left inside that can conduct from the tip to the handle end! To be totally safe, I should have junked that too, but I know it's no longer capable of conducting and it was an old friend!
Fully understand the ease of use of the Neon, but there remains that 1000:1 possibility that the Neon bit has elected to stop working, right on a day when a wire could be live for what ever reason (even after using a Voltage Plug, such as someone flicking a PCB back on without realising you were busy and no PCB Lock was used). Likewise, and probably the worst aspect, is it depends on the pink human bit to test, which is perhaps not ideal!
The Voltage Pens flash when working, and peep when being switched off, and you can test them on something known-to-be-live just before use, and be more certain nothing is live, because the Voltage Pen flashes to tell you it is still active and working whilst being used. Unlike the Neon, which only lights up with a current and if it's still working.
I know they are not cheap, I think I got mine for around £17, but have seen them as high as £29, so they can be expensive if you don't shop around.
Don't shoot the messenger!
As a novice I have never had much luck in geting those screwdrivers to light up consistently. The £8 pen I use, remove the batteries when not in use, lights up on the outside of a live kettle lead, something that doesn't register with a screwdriver.
Fantastic video mate. I need to buy a wire stripper. Any recommendation? For a DIY’er
Now there's a man that needs a multi tool. great video, just subscribed, looking forward wot working my way through the rest of your content 🙂
Great work Stuart, that tester looks like a good bit of kit.
Great video bro... may I ask what kind of filler were you using in this video?
Instead of making this a spur, could it not be added into the ring curate by extending one of the cables that were already in the box and connecting that to the new socket, and then running the other cable back into the box and connecting that to the old socket?
Really love your content because you describe things so simply.
Another really helpful (and amusing) video. Re cutting out the space for the back box, would you ever consider using a multi tool with blade? They’re a godsend for straight tidy lines 👍🏼
On thermometer blockband dot and dab you could easily use an old multi tool blade and also a dry wall socket and do the hole job in about 20 minutes.
Proper DIY you're a bloody Proper guy! Thank you!
Very good instructor 👍 well worth watching this guy, thank you 😊
Thank you
Although the socket is plastic, is it also not good practice to earth the metal back Box?
Not needed. See the top pinned comment
Seen quite a few shocks from neon screwdrivers, usually when they have gotten wet and the outside has been dried but some moisture has penetrated it.
Good video, thanks. Just wondering would this need to be signed off by a qualified electrician?
No. Have a look at 'part p' of the UK building regs - it makes it clear what you are allowed to do as a homeowner
To get the pattress box dead flush with the surface of the wall, put a strip of wide but thin wood (a bit of wide beading) across the front of the box, overhanging each end of the box, held in place with the screws that usually hold the socket in place, and put the box into the hole in the wall.
When the strip of wood is tight against the surface of the wall, the pattress box is level with surface of the wall.
For the socket, there are three spots for each color, is there any rules for which one goes as a set? I noticed you were randomly inserting. Ground is probably fine, how about the other two?
Just to say. If you have an oscillating multitool then you can cut the hole out perfectly and not need to fill around the sides as the 1mm slot will be covered by the socket facia. And if you don't have a multitool I would highly recommend getting one. It's the only thing to get me out of bed in a morning.
The problem you face spuring off a ring main is that they often aren’t complete. This could end up causing excessive strain on certain legs of the ring. Worth getting an electrician in if it’s an older ring circuit as the chances is that there’s been some Bodging over the years.
This is excellent! Alot more clear than other videos
Channels growing rapidly! And for good reason. Great content as always 👏🏻
Well thank you very much - appreciate it!
the link for the MK Rapid Fix Socket doesn't work. Doesn't look like Amazon have them. Screw fix and RS do have them in stock. Thanks for the video. I wanted to do this for a couple of sockets for extra power in the house.
Proper job, like the dance music, not a bad choice for an oldie, excellent video again my Bhoy, 👍🏻
Thank you
You always do a good job mate. Keep it up.
Thanks Stuart - your videos always make good Friday night viewing 👍🏻 I especially like your electrical videos as it gives me the confidence to have a go.
Glad you like them!
Friday is my favourite day not just because it’s the start of the weekend but I get to see another great video 😃 cheers Stuart 👍
That's very kind of you.
As an apprentice who doesn't work in houses is there a reason one of the legs couldnt of gone through and the new cable put through to complete the ring instead of the 3 cables at one point, honest answers cheers
Just bought my first house and looking to do some DIY like this. My question is, does your new socket require your older socket to be switched on before it works?
No it does not. The old socket does not need to be turned on to use the new socket.
Are you reading my mind? Just what I've contemplated doing next after installing new euro-lock! Great video didn't know about those new MK sockets, will look for those. Thanks for great info, cheers.
Nice one!
i now have the confidence to do the same thanks pal your a star
Thanks
Hi Stuart I'm a massive fan of your videos every one is such great tutorials and tips , just have always wondered are you or did you use to be a DJ ?
Should have an earth lead to the back box for good practice.
No not really. The professionals don't install them and with the earth bar at the back of the socket reaching around and making contact with the backbox it is earthed once screwed into place. See the pinned top comment.
Hi Great Video and detailed explanation , I have one question, if you or anyone expert can answer. I think my Thermostat is blown on my Under Floor Heating. I am going to replace the thermostat. This was installed by builders and is powered from RCD to a 45A double pole switch then on to Thermostat. I think not right.??. Can you suggest the safe approach for the spur. Do I use 13A fused double pole switch or 20A double pole switch. UFH for 12.3 sqm and reading resistance 29ohms & 1722W . Just need clarification please. Many thanks. BM
Thanks you for your video, very informative. Can i please ask how do i know if there is any electrical wiring, piping etc... behind the wall when im drilling?, This is perhaps the biggest reason why i dont like drilling into the walls in my house. Its a big problem for me as i need to repair many things
Much comes down to skill and experience, however you will do just fine if you use your senses and some common sense.
Take a look on both sides of the wall or area you're working on, are there any electrical outlets, plumbing or heating. Tap the wall, does it sound hollow, there might be cables or pipes. Are there bulges or hollows where things might be patched over. Are you drilling directly horizontal or vertical to an electrical accessory?
When drilling, you should feel the change from plaster to the substrate, and nothing else. Use a bradawl before drilling holes. If walls are plasterboard or studwork, you may avoid using power tools if pipes and cables concern you so much. Theres plenty of fixings can be installed with hand tools, you dont need to go blasting everything with a battery drill!
Those Neón screw drivers are all well and good but the reason why they are ground on is that they are not an approved method to test for presence of voltage. Firstly they are not GS38 compliant. Secondly the only thing that is stopping you from receiving an electric shock is a resistor. Videos like these is what makes DIY Dave say “My ‘lectrics work” yes Dave but are they safe? Have you tested it?
But you keep doing what you do
Great videos i have a staircase with 1 light downstairs hall and 1 light landing, downstairs light 1 for down stairs light hall has 2 switches 1 for up stairs is it possible to make both lights come on together?
Another great video. Like the honest comment about neon screwdrivers. See electricians having a go about them but as you say they're sold everywhere. They're ideal for those of us doing electrics every now and then. Like the rapid fix socket too, not used them yet. 👍
Thank you. After getting a lot of grief from electricians it's nice to know I'm not on my own!
Electricians, and anyone employed, have to comply with the Electricity at work regulations. As an industry we are trying to improve the safety culture through the use of proper equipment and best practice.
@@ProperDIY sometimes some sparkies will give out grief to DIYers as they have seen lots of things that are bad and tar the DIYers with that brush. The problem with the neon screwdrivers and the contactless mains indicators are they rely on you to provide the capacitance to work. I believe if you are well insulated then they don’t indicate and you could have live where it says there isn’t.
Given you’re working with 32 amps at this point you are then relying on the rcd to save your life. Most people don’t test their RCDs at the advised rate and how many have had them checked regularly? When your life is a stake then relying on luck is risky.
If one is working with mains electricity then a proving unit and proper tools and processes could well save your life, so a small price to pay.
A neon screwdriver is better than having nothing, but having the tools the pros use is best.
Still nice video and a great channel, you could always do a video about proving units and safe isolation.
My dad was a sparky and, whilst he used one, he never fully trusted his neon screwdriver. He taught me to always test it on the live socket first, then turn off the power at the consumer unit and then test the same socket again with the neon. As an aside, he also pulled out the fuse for the relevant ring-main as well as flicking off the switch - he call this his "making sure he got home for supper" tip, whereas nowadays I guess it's called best practice... Great vids that I passed on to by DIY son, too.
Well detailed and easy to understand, even for a complete novice like myself. Great video and a new subscriber. Thanks for sharing.
could doing this impact the foundation of your home if this is a load baring wall?
Hi, how would you go about adding plug sockets to a loft where there are none nearby? would it be significantly more expensive? just can't get my head around how you would get the electric cables from downstairs to upstairs
I'm no spark so asking is it permissible to spur that new socket off the original socket that doesn't appear to be on a ring main.
13:45 have you done a video on adding more than one socket as well?
The tip at 8min in revolutionised my life
Is this the same principle for outdoor sockets? Just looking to update my knowledge, not do it myself
Did you test the neon screwdriver after it showed a no glow. Power off or neon screwdriver faulty ?
Yes I always do but I don't show it on video or else I get a load of complaints that I've opened a socket without isolating the power
Really helpful video, thanks. Clearly explained and some very good tips, too. The MK Rapid Fix socket looks like a great product.
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video. My house is older with hard bricks (no fun stitch drilling) and previous owners have extended stuff, the wiring is a tad confusing now, lovely to work on a newer job. Side note, when I did my electrical installation studying in the late 90s, the tutor told us you shouldn't pull the earth through the sleeve to open it up as it has the potential to stretch the earth, narrowing its cross sectional area, but as you've done, is as I do, I suspect he was being extra cautious with new students.
I know what it's like in a house with hard bricks - a lot more work and noise. I think the 'using the earth to rip the insulation' is now taught - better than cutting through the insulation.
@@ProperDIY thanks, I feel better now. I'm not an electrician so haven't needed to keep up. Cheers.
@@johnrich6928 They actually make a cable stripper which does the outer sheath. Also worth mentioning it looks like the days of traditional pvc twin and earth are numbered, and its all going to be a low smoke version, either LSF or LSOH, both of which are a bitch to strip by pulling the earth core.
@@idi0tdetectioninprogress I've seen the strippers in action and being a DIYer and lover of tools want them, but I can't justify them now, all the wiring is done, just decorating to keep on top of.... but my kids have their own houses now, so just maybe.... but regs are regs!
@@johnrich6928 Each to their own, some are tool mad, and thats ok. Personally if youre a diy'er i wouldn't bother. Stick with a carefully used knife or pull the earth core. If the cables are at room temp its really not an issue, too many drama llamas in the electrical trade now.
Its terminating 3 phase distribution boards and commercial second fix where LSF is murder on the hands. Domestically you should still be meeting traditional pvc for a while yet.
Would we be able to do something similar passing an ethernet cable through the wall with an rj45 socket /backbox either side? My Internet modem comes into the living room and my spare room (office) is directly behind. Looking to get a wired ethernet connection into the spare room and this seems like a good option.
I use wago connectors to make safe wires. That allows you to reinstate the circuit if you need to.
No doubting the experience and expertise of this great guy , however is all the work involved in this task worth the effort for the sake of a lamp on a table in the other room ?????
I expect to be in this house for many years. I think it's worth spending a few hours over a weekend doing this so I can use it for every more. This is what us DIY'er do!
Great video! I have done the same job, except using a slightly bigger paintbrush. 🙂
Try that in some of the older homes here in MS! MSEC is the absolute pits! Its almost like listening to children fighting over which outlet they can stick their finger in. On the other hand, the NEC is miles higher and and much safer.
Great idea to use the filler to align the back box :-)
Thanks
Very clear and informative video! Could’ve been on BBC lol
Brilliant video. Calmly explained and good tips and tricks.