Great video! Lots of great info for beginners and even for those who have done it before too. I love seeing different techniques, like you said theres lots of different ways of getting the job done. I really liked the stack of CDs idea for ensuring proper spider alignment. You have the best Cerwin Vega parts I've seen and will continue to use your parts for the repairs I do.
Hi. Sometimes. Generally, the aim of reconing is to bring the driver back to original spec, or as close as possible. Sometimes there are different choices on cones or coil replacements, so picking a better one might be an upgrade over a different replacement. But changing any part to something different, can also cause the parameters of the driver to be different when you're done. Which is sometimes desirable, sometimes not. For instance, you could go with a thicker and heavier cone. That would lower the FS of the driver, improving low bass capability. But there's always a tradeoff. That heavier cone, while deepening the bass response, will also now not play as well up to the higher frequencies at the point the midrange takes over. leaving somewhat of a hole in the frequency response of the whole speaker. Everything is a balance, and usually with a gain in one area, there will be a cost in another aspect. If you're say designing something special, or custom, then there are lot of options. You could take a basic, say RE30 woofer, and recone it heavier for use as a dedicated subwoofer in a car or custom application. You could also recone that same woofer with a much lighter cone, and make it a big powerful midrange. Again, for a specific purpose or custom build. I do stuff like that all the time. But unless you're doing something custom, usually the goal is to get the driver back to original as much as possible. One thing I do offer with most of my recone kits, is an option on the spider. Back 50 years ago, most people didn't have giant high power amplifiers. So speaker efficiency was important. Now-a-days lots of people run big Crown and other professional amps. Watts are fairly cheap. So, efficiency is less important. If you are going to use something relatively low power, like 125 watts per channel, then the standard tan spider (same as original) is the better choice. It's rated C, but it's more of a B-C. A little softer. But if you are going to pound em hard, like a lot of people do with Cerwins, and you have say a solid 500 watts per channel, then I recommend the black spider. Still a C, but more of a C-D. Same X-max as the tan, but gives a little more control with high power. But, as I mentioned, everything is a tradeoff, so that extra control means slightly lower efficiency. Very important if you're running a 25 watt tube amp. Not important if you're running a 500 watt Crown.
Hi. I bought an assortment pack. So, I kind of use the heavier grit discs when there's a lot to remove, or some gooey glue. And the finer grit for finishing up.
WooHoo!! Finally a Brew City TH-cam channel!!!! Congratulations 🎉
Nice job Jessie 👏
Great video! Lots of great info for beginners and even for those who have done it before too. I love seeing different techniques, like you said theres lots of different ways of getting the job done. I really liked the stack of CDs idea for ensuring proper spider alignment.
You have the best Cerwin Vega parts I've seen and will continue to use your parts for the repairs I do.
Thank you! For those reading, make sure you check out SavingVegas! Lots of great videos there!!!!
Is there things to upgrade while doing a recone?
I.e upgrade cone,coil,spider ect??
Hi. Sometimes. Generally, the aim of reconing is to bring the driver back to original spec, or as close as possible. Sometimes there are different choices on cones or coil replacements, so picking a better one might be an upgrade over a different replacement. But changing any part to something different, can also cause the parameters of the driver to be different when you're done. Which is sometimes desirable, sometimes not. For instance, you could go with a thicker and heavier cone. That would lower the FS of the driver, improving low bass capability. But there's always a tradeoff. That heavier cone, while deepening the bass response, will also now not play as well up to the higher frequencies at the point the midrange takes over. leaving somewhat of a hole in the frequency response of the whole speaker. Everything is a balance, and usually with a gain in one area, there will be a cost in another aspect.
If you're say designing something special, or custom, then there are lot of options. You could take a basic, say RE30 woofer, and recone it heavier for use as a dedicated subwoofer in a car or custom application. You could also recone that same woofer with a much lighter cone, and make it a big powerful midrange. Again, for a specific purpose or custom build. I do stuff like that all the time. But unless you're doing something custom, usually the goal is to get the driver back to original as much as possible. One thing I do offer with most of my recone kits, is an option on the spider. Back 50 years ago, most people didn't have giant high power amplifiers. So speaker efficiency was important. Now-a-days lots of people run big Crown and other professional amps. Watts are fairly cheap. So, efficiency is less important. If you are going to use something relatively low power, like 125 watts per channel, then the standard tan spider (same as original) is the better choice. It's rated C, but it's more of a B-C. A little softer. But if you are going to pound em hard, like a lot of people do with Cerwins, and you have say a solid 500 watts per channel, then I recommend the black spider. Still a C, but more of a C-D. Same X-max as the tan, but gives a little more control with high power. But, as I mentioned, everything is a tradeoff, so that extra control means slightly lower efficiency. Very important if you're running a 25 watt tube amp. Not important if you're running a 500 watt Crown.
Can you tell us what grit sanding disc's you use?
Hi. I bought an assortment pack. So, I kind of use the heavier grit discs when there's a lot to remove, or some gooey glue. And the finer grit for finishing up.