Every time my wife says 'Honey, can you pass me the drill motor' I swoon just a little :) She helped with the recent Jeep build a bit, but after a year in the shop she tired of the project but NEVER gave me a hard time about when 'her' Jeep would be finished! When we find a good one, we want to make sure we treat 'em right!
You guys have more patience than I ever would. I hate electrical too. In fact any electrical issues I've had on my Harley or Camaro, I've paid someone to do it for me. That is a case of beer usually was the method of payment.
There is a pin connector removal tool made to push those pins out allowing you to re use the connector without cutting the wires...just a tip for your future wiring projects...great channel btw...it’s great to see you 2 doing the installs yourselves and actually using the Jeep as it was intended 👍🏻.keep up the awesome videos 🙂
Job well done!!! Today I was relocating the license plate on my JK and still haven't decided where to pick electricity from. Thanks for the ideas and a clean install!!! Cheers!!!
Wire connectors all have clips in them to hold them in position, there is a little kit you can purchase with little tools made to remove different types of connections. This kit will make you a seasoned electrician cause everyone cuts the wires. I have a 90 Grand Dad Wagoneer,lol, but Jeep Family IS Jeep Fam. luv you guys and your VERY energetic vids. Maybe someone can make a rear bumper for the exhaust to flow out back through it ,so that your muffy ler , doesnt get mashed. Thought I'd throw that out there.
So cool to see the OG Kevin and Brittany, AND the 350z!! I've been subscribed pretty much from the beginning and I remembered you doing this video. Got pulled over for an obstructed license plate because the handle of my bumper mounted carrier. I'll be doing a spare mounted plate and 3rd brake light and also want to use the factory plate wiring. I wish I had a Chris... :)
Been following you guys since about 7k followers. I just got the whole Motobilt rear tire carrier so I had to revisit this video. Of course when I watched is 5 months ago or whenever you released it, I was just in Jelousy of your JL. I've finally caught up (Well, till you did the Tons and Motor) but I must tell you, I really miss you guys from back when you did this. You guys are an awesome couple that knows your crap, I just miss when you were 'real folks'.... I love you guys still, but please don't let the fame change who you are and your roots. I still have the open invite to you guys if you ever come back to AZ. We can do the trails you were SUPPOSED to do instead of the lame Crown King run. Yeah its fun, but just not ROCK CRAWLING...We have some amazing trails. Love you guys and thanks for the vid!!! I"m so grateful for your Motobilt and MetalCloak reviews. No joke, my Game Changer suspension out performs EVERY jeep on the trail and recently beat a long travel JKU on an RTI ramp... Its good stuff.... Keep it up, and THANK YOU for all you do.
Great video! I put an LED round third break light on my JK that sits between the spare tire and the tailgate. I've rewired so many things in my JK and I struggled with butt connectors falling off while working that I finally switched to soldering and heat shrink tubing. Bought a cheap soldering kit on Amazon, heat shrink tubing and a heat gun and everything is so much better when wiring up lights and accessories.
Butane lighter torch, solder, and a small bag of heat shrink tubing. Will all pack nicely in your trail tool box and you have a lighter for camp fires. I also carry a small spool of wire for trail fixes. Awesome job keeping it looking clean and the extra attention to using factory wires so your not messing with splicing
im sorry for this but i couldnt resist. but if you take something completely out of context it sounds so "wrong" quote "what your gonna wanna do it apply abit of pressure to the tip" i hate myself for thinking such things but i couldnt stop laughing sorry brittney.
False, solder joints will actually create a stress point in the wire which can fail from vibration. Automotive wires are stranded to allow for movement and prevent breakage from vibrations vs home wiring which is one solid piece of wire. Butt or crimp connectors are the best to use for automotive and marine applications. That being said I would recommend using heat shrink connectors or just heat shrink over the connector for applications exposed to the elements.
@@ferruolovehicleupfitting3622 ... 2 mm length of solder on a 3 ft wire is not going to be a strain on anything. The other 3 ft of wire will allow movement. That's like saying if you link two bungee cords together with a quick link that the two bungees wont stretch.
Jody Reedy, definitely yes to heat shrink, but based on my experience (former rally and marine mechanic/electrician) I disagree with your suggestion to soldier wires for cars or for any application where there is a lot of vibration. I would suggest that next time you do any automotive wiring (or offshore, etc) consider using this method - strip wires, don't double over. Use the correct size butt connector for the application. For most automotive work, the higher quality ones with the shrinkable casings and gooey centers are just fine. Toss the cheapo crimpers and buy a ratcheting type, throw some heat shrink over the whole shebang and this will be good enough. For extreme applications, or when you REALLY don't want to fuss with it, and you sound like a person who is particular about their work - consider using the barrel swage connectors - no sheathing. With these, take this approach. the wires will overlap in the connectors, then crimp with a swaging tool or ratchet crimper (depending on the type you use, I like the round plated copper ones that require a swage tool). Shrink wrap with an adhesive lined shrink wrap (make sure they are fuel/UV resistant). Dope the entire assembly with a flexible coating (wire dip, etc). Protect with a final heat shrink tube, followed by some techflex for abrasion resistance. I DO soldier all 22ga or smaller wires, especially for Canbus or NEMA2000 applications. In these cases, I will do an inline splice (fan the strands untinned, inter-twine and soldier... but you need to stabilize the joint and avoid using any strain reliefs nearby to prevent the (more fragile) soldier joint from weakening over time do to chassis or hull vibrations. I know this sounds crazy, but this is why having a professional harness installed is so expensive (if done correctly). I've been thinking about doing a video on the techniques I mentioned here, let me know if you think it would be interesting or informative for folks! Once you have the techniques down, it is quick, easy and not expensive - especially when you consider what ONE expensive tow recovery or CANBUSII/III error could potentially cost you!
Whether butt splices or solder splices the splices should be staggered. This keeps the wiring diameter smaller and makes shorts between the splices less likely. Also. If using butt splices, use the uninsulated type and seal them (or the solder joint) with Marine grade heat shrink (it has adhesive inside that melts and seals the splice) keeping corrosion to a minimum..
Great video! I love that you are both willing to try this kind of work, take the time to make a plan ahead of time (no fake youtube drama) and aren't big handwavers (BAD YT habit!) and most importantly, aren't selling yourselves as master builders. I feel like your videos inspire people to try, no matter what! I'm sure you have seen some comments below about soldering/heat shrink etc... as a former mechanic and offhsore electrician, I can give you a simple method that isn't the EXTREME solution (see one of my responses to another post below , and no, you DON"T want to soldier most electrical connections on cars!) but is a good fit for driveway DIY'ers. With a Jeep (or boat, or rally car) you should expect your interior to get wet... if you are doing it right ;) a short in something dumb like a reversing light or CHIMSL brake light shouldn't matter, but because of how CANBUS works (think the internet that runs your car) odd things happen when you short wires that may not have individual fuse protection. To reduce the chance of having an issue when you modify a stock harness, try this - 1. Spend 25$ and buy a ratcheting crimp tool - more secure crimps, and they won't tear up the butt connector sheathing 2. Spend a few extra bucks and buy heat shrinkable butt connectors. They are usually translucent. Buy them in the right size, so you don't have to double back the wire. The resulting crimp will be better. 3. Use heat shrink tubing (don't forget to slide it on first!! The super cheap stuff won't shrink down enough to seal on the wire, so go to a good automotive shop and ask advice if you aren't sure what to buy. "Adhesive lined' is always a good start. so - slide on your shrink tubing (3x the length of your butt connector is a good rule of thumb) , strip your wires, crimp with a ratcheting tool, give it the tug test (seriously, if it can't take a strong tug, it is likely to fail!!!) then slide the heatshrink over. Shrink from the middle to the outside (use a heat gun, 15$ at horrible freight will be fine!). You know you are done when you see some of the clear adhesive ooze out the ends. It is ok to hate doing electrical - but follow these simple steps and you will have a better result in just about the same amount of time, and if you save yourself ONE expensive recovery due to an electrical problem, it will more than compensate for the slightly more expensive crimper, butt connectors and heat shrink! Thanks, and keep up the good work!
solder sleeves will seal for water and weld the wires together so you won't have any connection issues in the future. takes a small heat source... so much easier and more secure when done properly
Electrical is the absolute worst. I have taken my headlights on my Jeep jku off about 4 times at this point to address corrosion on the plugs. Can't seem to win. Just rained again and my head light out again. Great vid as usual guys!
Jesse Name appreciate the advice. I did so and still didn't fix it. Ended up cutting off the corroded harness and used some gel butt connectors. Will see how it goes.
I installed pretty much have the same light set up by Poison Spyder on my black JK and installed it the same way without cutting into the factory wiring harness. I have OCD about cutting wires, props btw for cutting one wire at a time to prevents shorts.
Here's a picture of the Poison Spyder one I used on one of my JK's. scontent.fbos1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/29791892_2104679356435559_8778915968997108690_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_eui2=AeFA7Kz01iDjf0_qiJ6QUMjnW5036NQpUljiW_A-Gkte88nBQP_Q9vWb_gffNVuO3FBUBrLWm4SRyoS2ox25hWwyuvVOEJbYsMYEbApAk_NEWQ&_nc_ht=scontent.fbos1-2.fna&oh=03b4669ad4fe959b6f5cdaf5c7b3e6fe&oe=5C81A67B www.quadratec.com/p/poison-spyder/led-3rd-brake-light-and-license-plate-light-jeep-vehicles www.quadratec.com/sites/default/files/installation_instructions/poison-spyder-license-plate-light-41-04-406-install-instructions.pdf
I want relocate my license plate as well, however on my new bumper I’m using the back up sensors. Would I still cut the rear driver side wire harness or cut into the passenger side brake light?
Nice job, I really enjoy your channel. I’m holding out for an aftermarket bumper that actually incorporates the plate in the stock JL position and protects it. Should be easy. AEV looks to have one coming. Then everything should connect up easier and I can keep the unique characteristics of the JL. Currently it seams every add on is slowly changing the JL back to an older design Jeep. Nothing wrong with that though as I have owned many and love them all. Keep up the great videos.
Another real helpful video, nice work! Honestly, you two are pretty funny together always bringing a smile with your fun loving banter towards one another. I have a question related to the bestop soft top - my wife has a 2015 JK and I am thinking about ordering one especially after your recent video but after reading some reviews, some folks report they leak. Have you had any issues with leaking?
Just went up Rainbow Road / Chinn's lake 5/26/19 - Saturday. Drifts up to 4 feet, right when you hit National Forest -- fine until then... We are only about 10-12 more days until we can Hit 12,000 feet! ...You and Kevin know some good trails that are not a 4 hour drive to get to??? ...We live in "littleton"... ...the Step-daughter has a '09 jk -- I have an '08 Xterra (just lifted 3") -- the "mrs." has an X5 (not really a rock crawler -haha) ...See you on the trails! ...thanks for all the awesome vids! (I have a super-hot "mrs", too)..... ...much love....
Very entertaining. Though this isn't quite the way I would do it, but then again I have only been maintaining and wiring airplanes and helicopters for 40 years.
Thanks for the upload, guys. Think I'd prefer a bigger 3rd brake light hung from the roof interior, flush against the window like a hatchback. I wonder if epoxy would hold there? I'd still buy that motorbilt tailgate kit, mix 'n match to suit taste...The 3rd brake light looks tiny, but I do like their plate light. Now your JL has a clear view through the rear window and an uncluttered tailgate, looks great.
Y'all learn those zip-tie skills from all the years in the drift scene? Looks cool! Are you eventually going to get a bumper mounted tire carrier or just put the spare inside for trips?
I’m with you Brit, I don’t like electrical. Drilling, cutting, wrenching, any day. Y’all made this look super simple. Might toss the stock 3rd brake light. Question, why didn’t y’all run the cable through the tailgate grommet before before running it through the loom on the inside of the hinge?
Hey guys love yalls videos ! I do have a question I want to purchase this rear tire Delete but I’ve seen that some people run into trouble with their camera did you guys have any trouble with the parking lines when you install the delete kit?
Okay what are those other wires going to the passenger side of the Jeep For 🤔 because the first three you hooked up at work the brake light and license plate light
A little late on the comments and doubt I’ll get a response...but why tap into the driver side where the license plate bracket runs and not into the passenger side taillight? I hate wiring so what do I know.
SMH you should have put some heat shrink rubbers on before closing those caps off especially if you trust they wont undo . Heat shrink rubbers leave you with better seals and a cleaner look than tons of electric tape even when its behind panels I believe it’s still a more clutter free way of working and a good habit , because if water ever touches inside of that the rubbers would conceal the wires better and not come undone like tape . Longer lifespan equals no replacing tape in a few years . Plus they make any color including clear silicon shrink tubes great for heat and all weather applications . Its what I used to rewire Jaguars with when I had to redo the entire harness at the dealerships way back when I was an ok mechanic lol .
Quick question....at 13:30 of the video, I see a wire loom coming out of the gate on the drivers side. What is that feeding? And if it is still an active loom, why not re-route it like you did the third brake light wiring for a cleaner look? Not being critical, just curious. Love your videos...another Colorado Jeeper here.
Charles Wanner That the factory wiring for the rear view camera, auto lock feature for the tailgate, and the original 3rd brake light. I suppose you could technically reroute it if you wanted, but we try not to do more electrical work than necessary. Lol
I also live in California. Check out California Vehicle Codes 24011 and 24012. Any vehicle built after 1993 requires an operable 3rd brake light. You likely won’t get a ticket, but if you piss off the officer you could.
After seeing how easy it is to loosen and remove the interior trim .... How did any of that remain attached during your recent Rubicon Adventure ? I'm envisioning a total tsunami of plastic after the first boulder encounter. just sayin' As we have seen, the convenience and efficiency of Jeep Manufacturing sometimes exposes shortcomings in longevity. ps ..That wire was white and teal ... pps .. Now install the back facing camera to catch evidence on the rear ender, as well as more video for future episodes.
Slop Bucket Do you mean versus using the passenger taillight wiring? If so, there really isn’t an advantage either way. They both result in the exact same outcome, we just thought using the oem license plate wiring might be easier
@@boughtnotbuiltoffroad7784 If your the first to use a jk bracket I get the credit! Next I want you to mount jk turn signals in the grille to pioneer a way to swap out OEM fenders
My only suggestion is butt connectors with heat shrink even for inside the vehicle, less likely to get pulled apart. And saves the 4 feet of electrical tape😂😂😂😂
You guys are awesome but that kind of hurt now I know you don’t like it wish could have come over and soldered and heat shrink last forever. But good job.
Hi guys, U R the best, please , please , innnovate in one incredible way, put portal axles on your JL , you Will be the coolest everywhere, and no scratching to your beautifull CHILD, think about it, you are Xtreme Adventurers
How is that brake lite dot approved? Its actually to low. Third brake is positioned higher. That's why none of the spare tire lites are legal. Nice job though
Lucky man right there, if my wife worked in my jeep with me the way you do with Kevin, everything would be twice as easy 😂😂 love the content
Kevin hit the lotto!
Every time my wife says 'Honey, can you pass me the drill motor' I swoon just a little :) She helped with the recent Jeep build a bit, but after a year in the shop she tired of the project but NEVER gave me a hard time about when 'her' Jeep would be finished! When we find a good one, we want to make sure we treat 'em right!
You guys have more patience than I ever would. I hate electrical too. In fact any electrical issues I've had on my Harley or Camaro, I've paid someone to do it for me. That is a case of beer usually was the method of payment.
There is a pin connector removal tool made to push those pins out allowing you to re use the connector without cutting the wires...just a tip for your future wiring projects...great channel btw...it’s great to see you 2 doing the installs yourselves and actually using the Jeep as it was intended 👍🏻.keep up the awesome videos 🙂
Job well done!!! Today I was relocating the license plate on my JK and still haven't decided where to pick electricity from. Thanks for the ideas and a clean install!!! Cheers!!!
Journeyman Electrician here.. There are many ways to go about doing this. that being said, Nice job!
Sheesh another legit vid from you guys! Best Jeep channel period!
i always solder my connex, but i like how you reused the effed-up license plate!
Lite brite drinking game. Shot everytime you say actually. 4 min in. Hammered 😆.
or Kevin & I ..... Lol
Wire connectors all have clips in them to hold them in position, there is a little kit you can purchase with little tools made to remove different types of connections. This kit will make you a seasoned electrician cause everyone cuts the wires. I have a 90 Grand Dad Wagoneer,lol, but Jeep Family IS Jeep Fam. luv you guys and your VERY energetic vids. Maybe someone can make a rear bumper for the exhaust to flow out back through it ,so that your muffy ler , doesnt get mashed. Thought I'd throw that out there.
So cool to see the OG Kevin and Brittany, AND the 350z!! I've been subscribed pretty much from the beginning and I remembered you doing this video. Got pulled over for an obstructed license plate because the handle of my bumper mounted carrier. I'll be doing a spare mounted plate and 3rd brake light and also want to use the factory plate wiring. I wish I had a Chris... :)
Been following you guys since about 7k followers. I just got the whole Motobilt rear tire carrier so I had to revisit this video. Of course when I watched is 5 months ago or whenever you released it, I was just in Jelousy of your JL. I've finally caught up (Well, till you did the Tons and Motor) but I must tell you, I really miss you guys from back when you did this. You guys are an awesome couple that knows your crap, I just miss when you were 'real folks'.... I love you guys still, but please don't let the fame change who you are and your roots. I still have the open invite to you guys if you ever come back to AZ. We can do the trails you were SUPPOSED to do instead of the lame Crown King run. Yeah its fun, but just not ROCK CRAWLING...We have some amazing trails. Love you guys and thanks for the vid!!! I"m so grateful for your Motobilt and MetalCloak reviews. No joke, my Game Changer suspension out performs EVERY jeep on the trail and recently beat a long travel JKU on an RTI ramp... Its good stuff.... Keep it up, and THANK YOU for all you do.
Great video! I put an LED round third break light on my JK that sits between the spare tire and the tailgate. I've rewired so many things in my JK and I struggled with butt connectors falling off while working that I finally switched to soldering and heat shrink tubing. Bought a cheap soldering kit on Amazon, heat shrink tubing and a heat gun and everything is so much better when wiring up lights and accessories.
Butane lighter torch, solder, and a small bag of heat shrink tubing. Will all pack nicely in your trail tool box and you have a lighter for camp fires. I also carry a small spool of wire for trail fixes. Awesome job keeping it looking clean and the extra attention to using factory wires so your not messing with splicing
Thank you for this excellent educational video. I like the path you used. Carry On!
im sorry for this but i couldnt resist. but if you take something completely out of context it sounds so "wrong" quote "what your gonna wanna do it apply abit of pressure to the tip" i hate myself for thinking such things but i couldnt stop laughing sorry brittney.
Leonard Martin 🤣
@@LiteBrite i know i know get my mind out off the gutter
One thing cut out those butt connectors soldier them with heat shrink will last longer and no bad connections in the future just a suggestion !
Agree, knew someone would mention this. But they did a good job besides that small detail.
False, solder joints will actually create a stress point in the wire which can fail from vibration. Automotive wires are stranded to allow for movement and prevent breakage from vibrations vs home wiring which is one solid piece of wire. Butt or crimp connectors are the best to use for automotive and marine applications. That being said I would recommend using heat shrink connectors or just heat shrink over the connector for applications exposed to the elements.
@@ferruolovehicleupfitting3622 ... 2 mm length of solder on a 3 ft wire is not going to be a strain on anything. The other 3 ft of wire will allow movement. That's like saying if you link two bungee cords together with a quick link that the two bungees wont stretch.
Jody Reedy, definitely yes to heat shrink, but based on my experience (former rally and marine mechanic/electrician) I disagree with your suggestion to soldier wires for cars or for any application where there is a lot of vibration. I would suggest that next time you do any automotive wiring (or offshore, etc) consider using this method - strip wires, don't double over. Use the correct size butt connector for the application. For most automotive work, the higher quality ones with the shrinkable casings and gooey centers are just fine. Toss the cheapo crimpers and buy a ratcheting type, throw some heat shrink over the whole shebang and this will be good enough. For extreme applications, or when you REALLY don't want to fuss with it, and you sound like a person who is particular about their work - consider using the barrel swage connectors - no sheathing. With these, take this approach. the wires will overlap in the connectors, then crimp with a swaging tool or ratchet crimper (depending on the type you use, I like the round plated copper ones that require a swage tool). Shrink wrap with an adhesive lined shrink wrap (make sure they are fuel/UV resistant). Dope the entire assembly with a flexible coating (wire dip, etc). Protect with a final heat shrink tube, followed by some techflex for abrasion resistance. I DO soldier all 22ga or smaller wires, especially for Canbus or NEMA2000 applications. In these cases, I will do an inline splice (fan the strands untinned, inter-twine and soldier... but you need to stabilize the joint and avoid using any strain reliefs nearby to prevent the (more fragile) soldier joint from weakening over time do to chassis or hull vibrations. I know this sounds crazy, but this is why having a professional harness installed is so expensive (if done correctly). I've been thinking about doing a video on the techniques I mentioned here, let me know if you think it would be interesting or informative for folks! Once you have the techniques down, it is quick, easy and not expensive - especially when you consider what ONE expensive tow recovery or CANBUSII/III error could potentially cost you!
Whether butt splices or solder splices the splices should be staggered. This keeps the wiring diameter smaller and makes shorts between the splices less likely. Also. If using butt splices, use the uninsulated type and seal them (or the solder joint) with Marine grade heat shrink (it has adhesive inside that melts and seals the splice) keeping corrosion to a minimum..
Great video! I love that you are both willing to try this kind of work, take the time to make a plan ahead of time (no fake youtube drama) and aren't big handwavers (BAD YT habit!) and most importantly, aren't selling yourselves as master builders. I feel like your videos inspire people to try, no matter what! I'm sure you have seen some comments below about soldering/heat shrink etc... as a former mechanic and offhsore electrician, I can give you a simple method that isn't the EXTREME solution (see one of my responses to another post below , and no, you DON"T want to soldier most electrical connections on cars!) but is a good fit for driveway DIY'ers. With a Jeep (or boat, or rally car) you should expect your interior to get wet... if you are doing it right ;) a short in something dumb like a reversing light or CHIMSL brake light shouldn't matter, but because of how CANBUS works (think the internet that runs your car) odd things happen when you short wires that may not have individual fuse protection. To reduce the chance of having an issue when you modify a stock harness, try this - 1. Spend 25$ and buy a ratcheting crimp tool - more secure crimps, and they won't tear up the butt connector sheathing 2. Spend a few extra bucks and buy heat shrinkable butt connectors. They are usually translucent. Buy them in the right size, so you don't have to double back the wire. The resulting crimp will be better. 3. Use heat shrink tubing (don't forget to slide it on first!! The super cheap stuff won't shrink down enough to seal on the wire, so go to a good automotive shop and ask advice if you aren't sure what to buy. "Adhesive lined' is always a good start. so - slide on your shrink tubing (3x the length of your butt connector is a good rule of thumb) , strip your wires, crimp with a ratcheting tool, give it the tug test (seriously, if it can't take a strong tug, it is likely to fail!!!) then slide the heatshrink over. Shrink from the middle to the outside (use a heat gun, 15$ at horrible freight will be fine!). You know you are done when you see some of the clear adhesive ooze out the ends. It is ok to hate doing electrical - but follow these simple steps and you will have a better result in just about the same amount of time, and if you save yourself ONE expensive recovery due to an electrical problem, it will more than compensate for the slightly more expensive crimper, butt connectors and heat shrink! Thanks, and keep up the good work!
I am waiting for the Lite Brite Board Game, where we take a drink every time when Brit says "Kevin and I".
This video helped me fix an issue that had me stumped for a week, thank you so much!
13:18- KEVIN HIGH FIVE! Couldn't leave ya hanging buddy! (my life) lol.😎
Great video btw! 👊
Very informative and entertaining, y’all are great
Thank you for sharing
Ciao y’all
Jeep should’ve hinged the tailgate from the other side so you can load cargo in from the curb
Wonderful job on the install.....great that you guys pre taped stuff since your in Japan, to bad Kevin....Brittany left you hanging...here you go 🤚🤚
Always harder to put it all back together vs removing. Looks great.
solder sleeves will seal for water and weld the wires together so you won't have any connection issues in the future. takes a small heat source... so much easier and more secure when done properly
Good job guys. As a 12v expert you did me proud.
It’s game day in Columbia MO! I’ll watch this later. Glad to see you back in the jeep!!!
JK XELOR Go Tigers!
Yes !!!
I'm from Missouri too, just ne of CoMo, Hannibal area. Good luck Tigers!
I'm in JC
Electrical is the absolute worst. I have taken my headlights on my Jeep jku off about 4 times at this point to address corrosion on the plugs. Can't seem to win. Just rained again and my head light out again.
Great vid as usual guys!
Use some dielectric grease
Jesse Name appreciate the advice. I did so and still didn't fix it. Ended up cutting off the corroded harness and used some gel butt connectors. Will see how it goes.
absolutely love watching your videos
Nice seeing Kevin more involved.
I like more that jeep JL with the Extra Tire.. but you gays made great job! 👌👍
Nice clean install, good job!
I installed pretty much have the same light set up by Poison Spyder on my black JK and installed it the same way without cutting into the factory wiring harness. I have OCD about cutting wires, props btw for cutting one wire at a time to prevents shorts.
Lifted Trucks USA I have a JKU and I’m looking to do my wiring for my relocation brake light and license plate light. How’d you do it?
Here's a picture of the Poison Spyder one I used on one of my JK's.
scontent.fbos1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/29791892_2104679356435559_8778915968997108690_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_eui2=AeFA7Kz01iDjf0_qiJ6QUMjnW5036NQpUljiW_A-Gkte88nBQP_Q9vWb_gffNVuO3FBUBrLWm4SRyoS2ox25hWwyuvVOEJbYsMYEbApAk_NEWQ&_nc_ht=scontent.fbos1-2.fna&oh=03b4669ad4fe959b6f5cdaf5c7b3e6fe&oe=5C81A67B
www.quadratec.com/p/poison-spyder/led-3rd-brake-light-and-license-plate-light-jeep-vehicles
www.quadratec.com/sites/default/files/installation_instructions/poison-spyder-license-plate-light-41-04-406-install-instructions.pdf
I want relocate my license plate as well, however on my new bumper I’m using the back up sensors. Would I still cut the rear driver side wire harness or cut into the passenger side brake light?
only # 46 but that don't mean I do not care!!! LOVE IT!! sweet vids!!!
Love the sexy instructional jeep video.
Nice job, I really enjoy your channel. I’m holding out for an aftermarket bumper that actually incorporates the plate in the stock JL position and protects it. Should be easy. AEV looks to have one coming. Then everything should connect up easier and I can keep the unique characteristics of the JL. Currently it seams every add on is slowly changing the JL back to an older design Jeep. Nothing wrong with that though as I have owned many and love them all. Keep up the great videos.
Another real helpful video, nice work! Honestly, you two are pretty funny together always bringing a smile with your fun loving banter towards one another. I have a question related to the bestop soft top - my wife has a 2015 JK and I am thinking about ordering one especially after your recent video but after reading some reviews, some folks report they leak. Have you had any issues with leaking?
Similar process for a 16 jk? Just bought one but the dealer didn't disclose that the entire wiring harness and plate light was missing
Awesome video keep them coming lol
Very cool yall!
Now you only need a Freedom Flyer!!!
Just went up Rainbow Road / Chinn's lake 5/26/19 - Saturday. Drifts up to 4 feet, right when you hit National Forest -- fine until then... We are only about 10-12 more days until we can Hit 12,000 feet! ...You and Kevin know some good trails that are not a 4 hour drive to get to??? ...We live in "littleton"... ...the Step-daughter has a '09 jk -- I have an '08 Xterra (just lifted 3") -- the "mrs." has an X5 (not really a rock crawler -haha) ...See you on the trails! ...thanks for all the awesome vids! (I have a super-hot "mrs", too)..... ...much love....
the hifive vacum was awesome! lol
Thankfully we dont need to run a 3rd brake light in PA but they are super harsh on no license plate light.
not sure which is better? the jeep stuff or the hint of sexual innuendo . a good mix for sure lmao
Very entertaining. Though this isn't quite the way I would do it, but then again I have only been maintaining and wiring airplanes and helicopters for 40 years.
Ahh, this answers my question about the license plate light :)
Where did you put the Back-Up Camera? With all the accessories that you now, what is your highway mileage with those 38's?
Thanks for the upload, guys. Think I'd prefer a bigger 3rd brake light hung from the roof interior, flush against the window like a hatchback. I wonder if epoxy would hold there? I'd still buy that motorbilt tailgate kit, mix 'n match to suit taste...The 3rd brake light looks tiny, but I do like their plate light. Now your JL has a clear view through the rear window and an uncluttered tailgate, looks great.
It's the same as the Poison Spyder kit. It actually puts out more light than I expected.
When I’m wiring why does the brake light stay on ? I connected black to black, blue & white to green and then connect the red (brake) to all of them.
Finally!
Y'all learn those zip-tie skills from all the years in the drift scene? Looks cool! Are you eventually going to get a bumper mounted tire carrier or just put the spare inside for trips?
Do either of you guys have auto experience in the industry like a mechanic's certification? You guys put out good, informative how to's
Nice job guys!
Great video, thank you!
I’d be curious how often you go out. I love doing trails not big into rock climbing but seem like a great pair to have fun with.
I’m with you Brit, I don’t like electrical. Drilling, cutting, wrenching, any day. Y’all made this look super simple. Might toss the stock 3rd brake light.
Question, why didn’t y’all run the cable through the tailgate grommet before before running it through the loom on the inside of the hinge?
Give me 5 🤣🤣🤣🤣 😊👍 really clean job.
Hey guys love yalls videos ! I do have a question I want to purchase this rear tire Delete but I’ve seen that some people run into trouble with their camera did you guys have any trouble with the parking lines when you install the delete kit?
Okay what are those other wires going to the passenger side of the Jeep For 🤔 because the first three you hooked up at work the brake light and license plate light
A little late on the comments and doubt I’ll get a response...but why tap into the driver side where the license plate bracket runs and not into the passenger side taillight?
I hate wiring so what do I know.
SMH you should have put some heat shrink rubbers on before closing those caps off especially if you trust they wont undo . Heat shrink rubbers leave you with better seals and a cleaner look than tons of electric tape even when its behind panels I believe it’s still a more clutter free way of working and a good habit , because if water ever touches inside of that the rubbers would conceal the wires better and not come undone like tape . Longer lifespan equals no replacing tape in a few years . Plus they make any color including clear silicon shrink tubes great for heat and all weather applications . Its what I used to rewire Jaguars with when I had to redo the entire harness at the dealerships way back when I was an ok mechanic lol .
irob rf It’s very flattering that you think our Jeep will survive a few years. Lmao 😅😅
LOL that horrible intro music this one girl that goes by ( Integress ) On TH-cam uses is going to be the end , waaay before the jeep gives out . . .
Good install, but I’d be careful at the car wash, I could see the pressure hose snagging on it and breaking/bending it.
blame your washer and dryer for that short sweater.. lol.. good job on your OIIIIIIO..
Mother of god!!!!!! I would spend 20-30 hrs per week letting her watch me go to town.
Quick question....at 13:30 of the video, I see a wire loom coming out of the gate on the drivers side. What is that feeding? And if it is still an active loom, why not re-route it like you did the third brake light wiring for a cleaner look? Not being critical, just curious. Love your videos...another Colorado Jeeper here.
Charles Wanner That the factory wiring for the rear view camera, auto lock feature for the tailgate, and the original 3rd brake light. I suppose you could technically reroute it if you wanted, but we try not to do more electrical work than necessary. Lol
@@LiteBrite Thank-you for the reply...I understand keeping it simple too!
May i ask.... Do you know abaut JL DIÉSEL productions, that jeep is coming? That is true?
CARLOS HENAO They will be releasing a diesel option in the near future
@@LiteBrite thanks for the answer, i hope to get a jeep and transform as your nice red big toy😀
Slick way of running wire through the netting on the tailgate.
I worked for a wire harness manufacturer that made harness for jeeps
I'm honestly surprised Jeep didn't integrate the third brake light into the wrangler hardtop.
You jeep windshield has bifocals just like mine😁👍🏻 10:25
Any idea what the functional purpose of the vents in the tail gate are?
That Mexican music at the end xD
We don’t have to have a 3rd brake light in California. All jeepers here eliminate it. Both big left and right rear taillights are good enough 👍🏻🤘🏻
I also live in California. Check out California Vehicle Codes 24011 and 24012. Any vehicle built after 1993 requires an operable 3rd brake light. You likely won’t get a ticket, but if you piss off the officer you could.
After seeing how easy it is to loosen and remove the interior trim ....
How did any of that remain attached during your recent Rubicon Adventure ?
I'm envisioning a total tsunami of plastic after the first boulder encounter.
just sayin'
As we have seen, the convenience and efficiency of Jeep Manufacturing sometimes exposes shortcomings in longevity.
ps ..That wire was white and teal ...
pps .. Now install the back facing camera to catch evidence on the rear ender, as well as more video for future episodes.
They don’t come off easy. At all...
I don't suppose y'all have tried to get that to pass a state inspection in Texas have you?
So what happened to the 5th wheel? Roofrack?
Another nice video..Oh, do you have to rake all of those leaves..I hate raking leaves..😊
I never rake leaves. Just mow them and leave them. Works great and grass loves it.
Where did you buy the light kit from?
Hey great job Brit you didn't use a torque wrench for a hammer...lmao
What are the advantages of installing the light this way verse the method suggested by the manufacturer?
Slop Bucket Do you mean versus using the passenger taillight wiring? If so, there really isn’t an advantage either way. They both result in the exact same outcome, we just thought using the oem license plate wiring might be easier
Yes. Great video. High Five Kevin!
Solder those connections....TURKEYS!
Lol at failed *High Five*. *High Five* Kevin!
that damaged plate from off roading is bad azz
Your dad looks tired in this video. Jk Kevin you know you’re the man
HIGH FIIIIVEee...... Dude... She left ya hanging... ☹️
Beautiful and Beautiful :D ;)
Great how to vidio.
Seems it would be easier to just try to convert an old JK license plate bracket assy and keep your spare?
@@boughtnotbuiltoffroad7784 If your the first to use a jk bracket I get the credit! Next I want you to mount jk turn signals in the grille to pioneer a way to swap out OEM fenders
My only suggestion is butt connectors with heat shrink even for inside the vehicle, less likely to get pulled apart. And saves the 4 feet of electrical tape😂😂😂😂
Aaron Spicer We were out and too lazy to run to the store. Lmao
@@LiteBrite shame shame😂😂😂😂
Aggie ring! Gig'em!
Aaron Smith Whoop!
She's gorgeous definitely enjoy watching
what Jody said!! Never ever use butt connectors!!
You guys are awesome but that kind of hurt now I know you don’t like it wish could have come over and soldered and heat shrink last forever. But good job.
works out just perfectly here in Japan! JLUS...unfortunately no JLURs imported here :(
Hi guys, U R the best, please , please , innnovate in one incredible way, put portal axles on your JL , you Will be the coolest everywhere, and no scratching to your beautifull CHILD, think about it, you are Xtreme Adventurers
Good job.
Next video but why did you remove the spare tire?
@@boughtnotbuiltoffroad7784 I see so you choose that over the safety of a spare.Your balls are twice as big as mine sir. Kevin 'BB' Williiams.
anyone know how many times “Kevin and I” was said, versus “we”?
Did you say the name of the light?
How is that brake lite dot approved? Its actually to low. Third brake is positioned higher. That's why none of the spare tire lites are legal. Nice job though