Just a couple of things, 1) the rubber washer goes under the flush valve, not under the cistern, you might want to change that because it will leak. 2) there’s a heaps easier method to set your pan collar measurements, you measure off the pan with a straight edge and give yourself 35mm over the discharge, I’ll let you figure out how that works but basically it gets the position spot on first time, you don’t have to mock it all up with the pan, 3) you should always put silicone on the underside of the pan first, and slide it onto the pan connector which should go in the floor first, but that wouldn’t work for you because of 4) you didn’t put the brace on the pan connector…and because you cut the pan connector down (the bottom part) I anticipate that toilet will last 2-3 months of use before it blows the pan connector off the discharge pipe and Youl have to re install it, which will be a pain because of 5) you siliconed the cistern to the wall around the entire outside, we usually just put a small blob in the middle to make it easy to remove and replace if anything goes wrong, and 6) you didn’t put a mini stop tap on to isolate the water at the toilet, Also, those flush pipe seals (the big donut) notoriously compress and need re tightening of the cistern screws, which you will be fighting against all that silicone if you have to tighten them. 6) you should always run the water thru the mini stop first to prevent debris entering the fill valve, and the other reason you always install a mini stop is so you don’t blow any plastic parts up when you energise the water lines, with a mini, you can turn the water slowly on to prevent this.
Thanks for the feed back, will be sure to inspect the things you have bought up, has been in 4 months now hasnt got any leaks yet, Have put a tap in since the video after being bought to my attention since the install. Appreciate you watching my video, and taking the time to inform me of my errors.
Yeah. Good point about the clumsy Mondella-Bunnings brace. Silicone can be cut later though but not so if in the middle. The flush valve washer seems to still work in both inside or outside. Great points, though.
Agree so much regarding the brace needing to be installed. My partner just bought a house and after plunging the toilet it’s leaking cause (I’m assuming the tight arse owner) didn’t install the brace… nor did they use the proper fixings on the bottom, instead just using silicone to stick it to the floor
Thanks for keeping the mistakes in there. You could have easily removed them and pretended it was a flawless install, but the mistakes are useful to help others avoid them.
VERY entertaining video. You look like a Ventriloquists Dummy without the Vent- the way you pivot your head to the side and up and down and NEVER Blink! Bet youre a HIT with the Sheilas. You should be on stage mate. On the Serious side - Good show of the fails and what people will come up against. GOOD commentary and camera work - WELL DONE!!!
I used your video to maintain an existing installation where the self-closing seat was loose as a goose & dangerous. Made the job extremely easy considering there were no clues on the seat once installed. Thank you
The silicone beading around the water tank is a great idea for keeping dust, etc. out. The dust, etc. behind the tank is a common complaint on the Bunning's reviews for the Concerto. Brilliant idea mate.
Thank you for up loading this important video. I am looking at this unit for our own toilet reno. Ours will be the P Trap Model ( ie exit through the wall.) I notice you retrofitted an Isolation cock for maintenance later. Did I miss where you installed a cistern overflow or is it automatically included in the cistern flush design. I notice too there is no fixing of the cistern to the wall. It must rely on being lightly attached at the base onto the throne. Top job though . Well done Mate . Cheers from Michael. Australia.
Thank you SOOOO much for this video! I had a NEW leaky one, and because of the video and it's explanation I was able to fix it (tighten the tank bolts to form a correct seal the plumber forgot to do🙄) Was told over the phone it was a phantom flush and they couldn't get back for 2 weeks. You helped me solve it and figure out it was just lazy plumbing error. *I guarantee they would have charged a call out fee on their own work, and told me something random instead of their laziness making the problem* Thanks again 👍 saved me a heap of time and water loss because of a few lose bolts👍🙏❣️
Same problem for me today my $600 Caroma rimless Toilet did not come with the rear entry kit. Couldn't finish the install i will get the $40 one you used from Bunnings i was curious how it fits into the cistern Caroma want $180 for their own kit what a rip off. Great video gave me some ideas about my install. Thanks
Thanks for the watching, happy it could be of some help to you, a couple of little things I have been pulled up on, get your self a mini tap to go in the cistern incase you need to isolate the toilets water supply for some reason, also theres a brace that I missed in the video that connects from the wall to the pipe going in the rear of the bowl.. Other than that enjoy the learning and good luck 👍
Oh dear dude. As previous poster mentioned, you forgot the brace for the outlet pipe you placed into the floor waste drain. You would have had a long thin rod about 250 mm long, a small square plate and some screws/plugs left over. It is designed to stop the pipe moving (up/down, left/right, back/fwd). The rod goes into the U shaped plastic part at the top of the pipe that you probably stared at wondering what it was for. The rod then screws into the small square metal plate which you screw into the wall. Dont want to scare you - but after who knows how many flushes that pipe will work loose, and one day your bathroom is going to smell like a sewer and you will be in the shit - literally. You will have to remove the toilet completely to get to the mess, clean it up (yuk) and start over.
Yes, its on the to do list, I have been keeping an eye on it through the inspection caps... but certainly need to just bite the bullet and straighten up my mistake... Thankyou for your words, and reminding me to boot up my butt and get it done..
Hey StayTrueTv, in about 6 months, I am going to fit a Mondella Concerto Toilet. Mine is a rear entry so I will have to order that part before the start of the installation so I don’t have to wait during the installation 😂
Hey bud, yes good learning there... I have another one to install in our second bathroom and yep.... also got the mechanism sitting there waiting now lol... Hope the video is of some help. Also dont forget the stop tap in the cistern as I had... for emergency cases.. Good luck with the install 👍
Actually, I’m not going to fit that toilet in because my mum told me that we are doing the renovations in a couple of years so I’ll have to wait until the renovations so I can do it.
Sure was, the printed instructions are terrible, they don’t even show you the wall bracket, waste pipe support . I like how you included your mistakes, they definitely helped us avoid making the same ones . Great job. Thanks!
I believe they were 6 or 8mm plugs, I just asked the hardware store for the drill to suit.. think it was about .5mm smaller than the plug it self.. Depending what plugs your kit comes with..
Hello thankyou very much for your comment. I believe it was a kinetic rear entry kit I used. www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-rear-entry-inlet-valve_p4920412 Enjoy the learning and good luck 👍
Mate, have you had any issues with the Mondella in terms of loose toilet seat and permanent stain on the bowl (as a result of the top glaze wearing off)?
No bud, we haven't although the seat we did change out for a seat that has the mini seat in it for our daughter... But no issues.. over all really happy with it ☺️
@@staytruetv3896 That's good to hear, mate. I've read mixed reviews on the Bunnings website about loose toilet seats requiring the toilet to come out to replace, as well as the glaze wearing off inside the bowl. Played it safe and bought two Caroma Luna units instead.
You haven't installed any bracket holding the waste pipe in place, it should be a peace of threaded rod with nuts and washers, connected to the wall and that little lip on top of the waste elbow.
Yep, would have to agree, unfortunately I don't have a camera man that can follow me around, and my placements of the camera are not always the best... Thanks for watching 😊
By drilling the holes in the floor you have broken the integrity of the waterproofing membrane and risk any warranty of the waterproof certificate /tiles. Seems to be a bad install instruction .
@@jamesbeam5373 There are two options, the old and new .Old is to use a bed of cement and sand mix use a stiff mix (firm - less water), place toilet on this, centre and level then leave to cure about 5-7 days. New is use a high grade/quality silicon and glue the pan in position on a thin bed of silicon, again it will take several days for the silicon to cure . No screws or bolts used and waterproofing is intact without penetrations .
@@hrd998cc Old way is unworkable.with floor mounted one. Only works on back pipe style pans. You need better anchorage than silicone to hold the pan. Even the high strength stuff (which can hold an oven doors), there would be too much movement every time you sit down. Waterproofing or not, I would stay with the screw anchors.
No worries, cant please everyone, and certainly isnt the perfect video, still alot of learning for me to do. But if I took all the bad comments to heart I wont be getting any better, Appreciate your feed back and thanks for watching..
A great video. Thanks for including the things that went wrong. Makes the video more real.
Thanks Phillip, appreciate your feedback...
Thanks for watching
Just a couple of things,
1) the rubber washer goes under the flush valve, not under the cistern, you might want to change that because it will leak.
2) there’s a heaps easier method to set your pan collar measurements, you measure off the pan with a straight edge and give yourself 35mm over the discharge, I’ll let you figure out how that works but basically it gets the position spot on first time, you don’t have to mock it all up with the pan,
3) you should always put silicone on the underside of the pan first, and slide it onto the pan connector which should go in the floor first, but that wouldn’t work for you because of
4) you didn’t put the brace on the pan connector…and because you cut the pan connector down (the bottom part) I anticipate that toilet will last 2-3 months of use before it blows the pan connector off the discharge pipe and Youl have to re install it, which will be a pain because of
5) you siliconed the cistern to the wall around the entire outside, we usually just put a small blob in the middle to make it easy to remove and replace if anything goes wrong, and
6) you didn’t put a mini stop tap on to isolate the water at the toilet,
Also, those flush pipe seals (the big donut) notoriously compress and need re tightening of the cistern screws, which you will be fighting against all that silicone if you have to tighten them.
6) you should always run the water thru the mini stop first to prevent debris entering the fill valve, and the other reason you always install a mini stop is so you don’t blow any plastic parts up when you energise the water lines, with a mini, you can turn the water slowly on to prevent this.
Thanks for the feed back, will be sure to inspect the things you have bought up, has been in 4 months now hasnt got any leaks yet,
Have put a tap in since the video after being bought to my attention since the install.
Appreciate you watching my video, and taking the time to inform me of my errors.
Yeah. Good point about the clumsy Mondella-Bunnings brace. Silicone can be cut later though but not so if in the middle. The flush valve washer seems to still work in both inside or outside. Great points, though.
thanks for the ideas, is it solid enough to only use 2-3mm silicone on the base of pan to keep it located?
Agree so much regarding the brace needing to be installed. My partner just bought a house and after plunging the toilet it’s leaking cause (I’m assuming the tight arse owner) didn’t install the brace… nor did they use the proper fixings on the bottom, instead just using silicone to stick it to the floor
Thank you Josh for the extra info. 😁
Thanks for keeping the mistakes in there. You could have easily removed them and pretended it was a flawless install, but the mistakes are useful to help others avoid them.
Thanks bud, also helpful for comments, much appreciated
Well done for your RIMLESS TOILET
Plumbers Installation Guide
thanks for watching
VERY entertaining video. You look like a Ventriloquists Dummy without the Vent- the way you pivot your head to the side and up and down and NEVER Blink! Bet youre a HIT with the Sheilas. You should be on stage mate. On the Serious side - Good show of the fails and what people will come up against. GOOD commentary and camera work - WELL DONE!!!
Thanks for watching
Good video... I didn't know how those bolts worked joining the cistern to the seat and sealed it, but you showed it at 16:54 thanks
Thanks for your comment, hope the video was of some help.
I used your video to maintain an existing installation where the self-closing seat was loose as a goose & dangerous. Made the job extremely easy considering there were no clues on the seat once installed. Thank you
Awsome bud thanks for watching
The silicone beading around the water tank is a great idea for keeping dust, etc. out. The dust, etc. behind the tank is a common complaint on the Bunning's reviews for the Concerto. Brilliant idea mate.
Thanks Brian
Great video mate.
Thanks bud
Thank you for up loading this important video. I am looking at this unit for our own toilet reno. Ours will be the P Trap Model ( ie exit through the wall.) I notice you retrofitted an Isolation cock for maintenance later. Did I miss where you installed a cistern overflow or is it automatically included in the cistern flush design. I notice too there is no fixing of the cistern to the wall. It must rely on being lightly attached at the base onto the throne. Top job though . Well done Mate . Cheers from Michael. Australia.
Thank you SOOOO much for this video!
I had a NEW leaky one, and because of the video and it's explanation I was able to fix it (tighten the tank bolts to form a correct seal the plumber forgot to do🙄)
Was told over the phone it was a phantom flush and they couldn't get back for 2 weeks. You helped me solve it and figure out it was just lazy plumbing error.
*I guarantee they would have charged a call out fee on their own work, and told me something random instead of their laziness making the problem*
Thanks again 👍 saved me a heap of time and water loss because of a few lose bolts👍🙏❣️
Awsome work bud, good to know my video could be of some help 👍
Thanks for the feedback
@@staytruetv3896 💯!
Ty again. You'll never make everyone happy with any video. But you have absolutely helped me and a few others by the looks of it.
O
Same problem for me today my $600 Caroma rimless Toilet did not come with the rear entry kit. Couldn't finish the install i will get the $40 one you used from Bunnings i was curious how it fits into the cistern Caroma want $180 for their own kit what a rip off. Great video gave me some ideas about my install. Thanks
Thanks for the watching, happy it could be of some help to you, a couple of little things I have been pulled up on, get your self a mini tap to go in the cistern incase you need to isolate the toilets water supply for some reason, also theres a brace that I missed in the video that connects from the wall to the pipe going in the rear of the bowl..
Other than that enjoy the learning and good luck 👍
Thank u .. great video
Thankyou
Oh dear dude. As previous poster mentioned, you forgot the brace for the outlet pipe you placed into the floor waste drain. You would have had a long thin rod about 250 mm long, a small square plate and some screws/plugs left over. It is designed to stop the pipe moving (up/down, left/right, back/fwd). The rod goes into the U shaped plastic part at the top of the pipe that you probably stared at wondering what it was for. The rod then screws into the small square metal plate which you screw into the wall.
Dont want to scare you - but after who knows how many flushes that pipe will work loose, and one day your bathroom is going to smell like a sewer and you will be in the shit - literally. You will have to remove the toilet completely to get to the mess, clean it up (yuk) and start over.
Yes, its on the to do list, I have been keeping an eye on it through the inspection caps... but certainly need to just bite the bullet and straighten up my mistake...
Thankyou for your words, and reminding me to boot up my butt and get it done..
awesome. tnx
Hey StayTrueTv, in about 6 months, I am going to fit a Mondella Concerto Toilet. Mine is a rear entry so I will have to order that part before the start of the installation so I don’t have to wait during the installation 😂
Hey bud, yes good learning there...
I have another one to install in our second bathroom and yep.... also got the mechanism sitting there waiting now lol...
Hope the video is of some help. Also dont forget the stop tap in the cistern as I had... for emergency cases..
Good luck with the install 👍
Actually, I’m not going to fit that toilet in because my mum told me that we are doing the renovations in a couple of years so I’ll have to wait until the renovations so I can do it.
Good job man.... now I know what to do and not to do ;-)
That was a big help thank you for sharing.;-))
Thankyou for watching, glad it was of help 😊
Sure was, the printed instructions are terrible, they don’t even show you the wall bracket, waste pipe support . I like how you included your mistakes, they definitely helped us avoid making the same ones . Great job. Thanks!
Should be a stop tap between the brass pipe and the flex hose.
Hey bud, yes... I have been pulled up on this and placed a tap in the unit.
Thanks for your feedback and watching the video 👍
You wouldn't want to be busting for shit, awaiting the rear entry kit !
😆 certainly not
Legend. Installing one this week!
Good luck 👍
Excellent
Love your work. I think you may have to come back to unblock them one-day owed to the pan connector. I’ve heard they block up easily
Good to know thanks 👍
It was really helpful thanks for sharing👏👏👏
Awsome to hear, thanks for watching
Thank 👏👏👏
Thanks for watching
4:30
Thanks mate
What size holes did you drill in the floor for the mounting bolts?
I believe they were 6 or 8mm plugs, I just asked the hardware store for the drill to suit.. think it was about .5mm smaller than the plug it self..
Depending what plugs your kit comes with..
You always measure the thickness of the pan then put your attachments in place
So much learning from the comments provided on this video.
Thankyou 🙌
Hey, does it not need a isolation tap to turn the water off if the toilet starts to leak?
Hey bud yes, was informed of this not long after uploaded, and have fitted one since..
Thanks for the feedback.
can you tell me what brand the rear entry kit is, i have the same problem here in nz with the cistern needing a rear entry kit, good video thanks
Hello thankyou very much for your comment.
I believe it was a kinetic rear entry kit I used.
www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-rear-entry-inlet-valve_p4920412
Enjoy the learning and good luck 👍
@@staytruetv3896 thanks so much
Keep up the good work
Champion
Thanks for watching
Mate, have you had any issues with the Mondella in terms of loose toilet seat and permanent stain on the bowl (as a result of the top glaze wearing off)?
No bud, we haven't although the seat we did change out for a seat that has the mini seat in it for our daughter...
But no issues.. over all really happy with it ☺️
@@staytruetv3896 That's good to hear, mate. I've read mixed reviews on the Bunnings website about loose toilet seats requiring the toilet to come out to replace, as well as the glaze wearing off inside the bowl. Played it safe and bought two Caroma Luna units instead.
You haven't installed any bracket holding the waste pipe in place, it should be a peace of threaded rod with nuts and washers, connected to the wall and that little lip on top of the waste elbow.
Thankyou for watching, and thankyou for bringing that to my attention, will deffinatly fit that when I get a moment, 👍
19:45 nice crack
Tends to get away from me 😬😆
Good on ya for showing the FAIL! Not enough people do this.
fails are the best learnings, lol
Thanks for the feedback and for watching the video 👍
It would have been so much better if you didn't block the views of what you were doing, especially installing the toilet seat.
Yep, would have to agree, unfortunately I don't have a camera man that can follow me around, and my placements of the camera are not always the best...
Thanks for watching 😊
By drilling the holes in the floor you have broken the integrity of the waterproofing membrane and risk any warranty of the waterproof certificate /tiles. Seems to be a bad install instruction .
Thankyou for your feedback,
What would be your expert solution? How else could it be done? Look forward to your response.
@@jamesbeam5373 There are two options, the old and new .Old is to use a bed of cement and sand mix use a stiff mix (firm - less water), place toilet on this, centre and level then leave to cure about 5-7 days. New is use a high grade/quality silicon and glue the pan in position on a thin bed of silicon, again it will take several days for the silicon to cure . No screws or bolts used and waterproofing is intact without penetrations .
@@hrd998cc Old way is unworkable.with floor mounted one. Only works on back pipe style pans. You need better anchorage than silicone to hold the pan. Even the high strength stuff (which can hold an oven doors), there would be too much movement every time you sit down. Waterproofing or not, I would stay with the screw anchors.
I’m a waterproofer and nobody cares
Total crap.
No worries, cant please everyone, and certainly isnt the perfect video, still alot of learning for me to do. But if I took all the bad comments to heart I wont be getting any better,
Appreciate your feed back and thanks for watching..