Volvo PCV Replacement 2001-2009 2 5L Engine
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ต.ค. 2024
- Volvo PCV Replacement 2001-2009 2 5L Engine. If you own a Volvo, eventually, you're going to have to replace the PCV system, and realize these don't have that little PCV Valve that takes 5 minutes to replace and costs $20. Oh no! These are MUCH worse! The Volvo's use an oil trap system that is a more complex design. It allows the engine to run cleaner, but at the cost of having to replace the system regularly. I think most people suggest about every 100,000 miles or so. My Volvo has 176,000 miles on it and was just barely starting show signs it needed replacing. So, on a cold, winter day when I couldn't do anything else, I put the heater in the garage and got busy replacing my PCV system with one I got from IPD Volvo. Since the throttle body was easily accessible during this, I also took the time to clean that. I also went a step farther and replaced my fuel injectors. Those are super cheap these days so, since I had to remove the fuel rail, it was a good time. I use remanufactured ones from a good source and the car runs noticeably smoother.
This install is NOT for someone who isn't very well acquainted with working on the engine of a car. It is a very time consuming process, with lots of "gotcha's" and fiddly bits along the way that require you to be patient, stay calm, and think your way thru the problem. You will be working bent over a lot of the time, in tight spaces too. If you have no problems with that, then you can save a ton of money doing it yourself. My garage wanted roughly $1,300 to replace the PCV system. Even with the extra bits, lube, fuel injectors, and an oil change afterwards, my cost was under $300. It took 8 hours, part of which was taking time to record video, but it's all done and ready for another 100,000+ miles now. I documented some of MY steps along the way. Come along and hopefully some of this can help you too.
![How to Replace the PCV Diaphragm on a Volvo T5 [Money Saving Way]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1O4r1ftgJaQ/mqdefault.jpg)
after a pain staking 14 hrs later I eventually finished my pcv system. man o man no amount of hearing "this is difficult" prepared me for how hard it was. once I got everything back together. My car ran like complete crap. I disconnected the battery for 10 min and then it ran fine after a reset. But when I went to drive it again the next time it was still acting weird. I got new coils and spark plugs OTW so hoping that clears it up. I won't be a fan of having to disconnect the battery every time lmao. I don't think this would of been possible without your video thank you!
How's you car running now?
I wonder if you disconnect the battery before starting the car after the job, if it would make a difference
Floyd, thank you for making this video as it provides so many people with the procedure in replacing this system to the public. Your effort and time are appreciated. When you reconnected hoses to the air/oil separator box you connected the top two backwards. The one that goes through the intake mounts to the port furthest from the block, and other heater tube one mounts to the port closest to the block. With that said, I'm not sure of the internal baffle configuration within the air/oil separator, maybe it doesn't matter. But I am sure the compartments of those 2 inputs are different which makes me think it matters. Minute marker 25 vs 36.
I spent two or three evenings doing mine. That tube with the banjo bolts was a royal pain!!! Nice job.
This video is going to prove very useful, thanks. I'm going to replace my thermostat and steering pump at the same time, so it's quite daunting. You've really explained the process nicely.
You should be fine with it. It's not a hard job, just a really fiddly job. Patience is the biggest tool to have on this job.
Thanks Floyd! This gave me the courage to clean and replace the PCV system on my 2004 S80 2.5T. I originally planned just to clean everything but the hard plastic pcv nipple had broken into two, so had to replace it all anyway.
I'm in the same boat you were in, waiting on mine to come so I can replace it after I wanted to clean it😭
doing this job tomorrow. Watched a few vids on this. got my my tools gathered up. your video is very good and tips i think are going to be very helpful .. thanks Mr Nash
Dear Sir, you are so experience and knowledgeable about the mechanic parts of the car.
Hey bud thank you for this video... extremely detailed and I was able to fix my car because of it.... I had the exact same issue with my s80.. thanks man keep up the good work.
Thanks for the video Floyd.. Now that I know how to do the PCV box, this is a job I'm going to hate doing on my 2004 xc70.....
The hardest part is being patient enough to get that one bolt out of the intake manifold, and routing the new coolant line back in all the mess it's routed thru. FCP Euro shows a video on replacing this system without replacing the coolant line, just the little banjo bolt part under the intake and the small line attached to it. I chose to do the entire thing as a precaution because the cost was so small, especially with the kit I got that included that part.
yeah you will !! the turbo is much worse to do than the non turbo....it is time that is detailed so take pics before you start the job...
@@FloydNashFixItDad power steering removed from the bracket or some long extensions but he banjo bolt is still a problem if the steering pump is still in you need a stubby 17 (if i remember right ) for the banjo bolt .
Hi @hankheim4226, I bought a 2004 XC70 last April and am working on fixing up the 'sad' parts. It was neglected a bit, so I am making things right. How did that PCV box fix go for you?
this video was so well worth doing...im in the process on my 06 xc70 doing the same exact thing you had done and removed the coolant hose line system too.now just waiting for parts to get it...but im betting its going to take a bit to get mine back together too....but doing it slow and right will keep from having to fix mistakes later.....again, thanks for the video.
FYI!!!!!!!!!!!!: If you are struggling to get this manifold bolt out, take the top hose of the oil trap box off prior to taking manifold bolts out, you may be able to get the bottom left bolt out by simply reaching under and across the entire manifold from drivers side and get it with a tiny ratchet, worked for me and took about 30 seconds!!! 21:19
Hopefully I never have to do this again but if I do, that's a great tip. Thank you!
Were you working on an xc70? I am having a devil of a time trying to get this out.
@gerrysantora1706 no this was a 2009 S60.
Great video I will be doing this soon on my dads s60r
Did this job in my 05 s60r a year ago. The most frustrating thing was getting that dang banjo bolt into the side of the motor. A lot of cursing and time went into searching for dropped crush washers! Thanks for the vid!
You must have replaced that entire cooling hose too. For me, routing that hose thru was probably the biggest pain. The washers for the banjo bolt weren't fun either but I think those were easier than getting the dang hose to go thru that tight area.
Awesome video and description!
Long video yeah a long job though, thanks I’ll be doing this later on my s40 🤔 best video I’ve watched, thanks 😊
Did you do your PCV and was it anything like this car.. I've got 2 volvo's and the s40 1.8 has just started smoking ... it looks more like white smoke and I've been told it could be my PCV that's causing the smoke ... I'm kinda wondering if it's worth doing. The car itself is in great condition with only 82.462 miles on the clock
Great Video! I wish you would of shown us the condition of the breather box to see how dirty it was.
Nicely done very informative
F*ck man! You're a hero! Great detail. I'm learning.
Excellent instructions! Right before the 24 minute mark, you were finally able to loosen that almost inaccessible bolt. What tool combo did you use? A crowfoot has been recommended but none of my local stores carry them so I would have to order them online. I was hoping to start the project in a day or two, so I'm very interested in how you were able to accomplish this feat! Thanks for this video. You've helped many people by taking your time to share. 🎖️
Which one, the banjo bolt or the one in the left bottom hole for the manifold? The banjo bolt I got to from below. I was able to angle the manifold up a bit and get under it relatively easily. The one holding in the manifold, I had a combination of wobble sockets, and wobble extensions to allow me to bend the extensions in to get to that bolt. Getting it guided onto the bolt was the hardest part of the whole process.
@@FloydNashFixItDad it was the one on the manifold I was wondering about. Thanks for your quick response. I have enough wobble sockets, attachments and extensions to move ahead with confidence now!
@@dawnrobbins5877 Good luck and take your time. It's not hard, just time consuming because of how hard some things are to get to that first time.
Thank you very much for the video Floyd! The PCV system on my 2001 S60 seems to be doing fine at the moment, glove is almost getting sucked into the engine (thank god for the little filter thingy underneath the oil filler cap) but once the time comes that it needs to be replaced I'll probably be doing it myself too. Your video will be of great help! Also, do you happen to know how to get the rubber part that is in between the wiper arm and cowl top grille seated properly? For some reason one of them came loose on my S60 and I can't seem to get it back in. It's almost like the cowl top grille deformed...
they are sun baking all day so id bet either one is warped so use some contact cement ,epoxy glue or visit a pull and pay yard for a good used part.
@@AwakeDude911 thanks man!
Floyd, the lower block PCV port is blocked I think...when I attach a hose to it and pressurize with compressed air, I'm not getting any air out of the oil fill cap opening. Is this OK or do I need to drop the oil pan?
The upper PCV block port is fine by the way.
Thanks!
Hi Floyd i own 2006 volvo XC90 i have changes the breather house cause it was crack then when i took for a smog check it fails on Crankcase Emissions Controls and it fails on Vacuum Lines to sensors/ switches and also have very rough idlings i still wonder the problem is really the PCV valves
Hi Floyd I follow your metal detecting channel
Thank you! Now if I can just get out and do some detecting
Screw in clips were called 'Jubilee clips ' in my youth. A few years ago? Haha.
Thank you sir
Thanks Floyd, just did the job after watching your video. It was an absolute fucking nightmare, made worse by the fact that the 2001 T5 I did it on has a fuel line that bends on top of the intake and you can't really get to the banjo like you did in the video, but I got through it.
It is definitely more complex than it should be. I like my other daughter's Toyota. An $8 part that screws into the side of the head where the valve cover mounts and has one line going it it with a snap ring to keep it in place. Takes 5 minutes to swap it out.
How is that aftermarket cheap PCV coolant assembly holding up after 3 years? Also I notice you had oil sweat stain on the PTC part of the intake hose of the turbo. Did that problem resolve after doing the PCV change or do you still get that oil residue?
This wasn't a "cheap" part. This was a kit from FCP Euro. Some of the pieces were aftermarket, and some in the kit are OEM, but the quality is outstanding. Everything is OEM or better. I've had no issues at all. With currently 200,000 miles, you'll never truly get rid of oil staining here or there, but it doesn't burn oil, or at least not to the point where any has to be added between oil changes. My daughter now drives this and fully expects to still be driving it at 300,000.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Thanks for the reply. Have you ever removed the intake pipe and inspect the PTC if it is clogged after 200k miles? Did you get an increase in MPG from the refreshed PVC system and fuel injectors?
@@willjr2520 I wasn't having any real decrease in mileage and didn't do a comparison so can't say for sure. I don't drive this very economically so I'm probably a bad person to ask about gas mileage anyway. That PTC "Valve" isn't an actual valve, just a heating element that keeps condensation from freezing in that tube mostly. I've never heard of one going bad and haven't inspected it. Sometimes messing with these older parts will create more problems, so if it's not broken, I don't try to fix it.
Thanks for the video.
The most challenging part is the left bottom bolt if the intake manifold near the thermostat. How did you end up loosening this one? It is a nightmare. Thanks
Before I started, I got a set of wobble extensions from Harbor Freight and had to link a couple of wobble extensions together to allow the bending needed to get to that bolt. Just at the end as it got near the bolt, since the setup was now flexible, I had to loop some twine around the end of the extension to pick it up and help guide it onto the bolt. It took quite a bit of time to get that thing lined up and on the bolt and I did everything I could at that point to keep it pushed onto the bolt head so it wouldn't pop off.
@@FloydNashFixItDad thanks for the tip, I will give it a try, this is a tough one.
@@FloydNashFixItDad i did exactly what you did but instead of twine, i used a pick up earth magnet on the end of a metal tube and used that to help align onto that bolt head....using a snap-on 10mm wobble socket was the best bet.......
Floyd- in the process of replacing my PCV system tonight. Part of the hard plastic cooling tube that is secured by the banjo bolts broke so now I have to replace the entire part.
Any special tools or tricks you used to get the other end (under the air box) or did it take the same wrenches for the other side?
I honestly don't remember. All the tools were pretty basic though except the need for about 12 wobble joints and universals to get to that one bolt on the intake manifold. The rest might have been a bit difficult to get to at times but I don't remember needing anything special.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Thanks for the reply! I managed to get that stubborn intake bolt off without too much fuss. Was hoping to not have to replace the entire cooling hose but I have to now.
You just have to remove the air box to clear up some space? I’ve scoured the internet for videos and yours seems to be the only helpful one I’ve found on replacing that line.
Do not cut intake gasket, the bolt comes out with a 10mm open end wrench. It does touch the housing , but comes out just fine.
So putting the banjo bolt back into the manifold:
Youre saying you left it tilted up, and started threading the bolt into the manifold before it was in place ?? Was the other hose that goes into the other spot and issue or did your way work ? It took me an hour to get that bolt in after... i just dont want it to take forever this next time as i have to do it AGAIN. After a year 🤷♀️🤦♀️ already had my oil pan dropped too so im hoping that wont be an issue as well as the cam seals were done too. Thanks
This way worked. That hose has enough flex that you can angle the manifold a bit so you can actually get your hand in and your head to see what you're doing, and get that bolt started and I think even fully tightened down.
@Floyd Nash Fix It Dad i see they gave you hose clamps with a bolt. Mine are one use crimp clamps. Im hoping if i get the bolt started im still able to get that hose onto the trap and snug that down ! Ugh this pcv system is a chore. Ive already had to do it basically twice. I need FCP to sponsor me 🤣 im only 1 hour away from their store in CT haha
I’m doing this on my 2004 xc90 this weekend
Good luck! Take your time and be patient. It's not hard really, just one of those things you have to be patient with.
I stared mine yesterday and noticed some minor difference than the s60, obviously. I think the hardest thing will be to get the banjobolt on the right and stuff related to that. At least the dismantle of that was a bad.
I ordered the parts and we will continue next weekend! the oil trap and hoses were very clogged.
I’m done but my car still leaking I don’t know where from. :( and what does it mean fault 2 pend 3 ?
@@mariaa9728 If I look online I think that error is the idle air control valve, so it may just have not been plugged back in. Just google search it so you know about what it looks like. If your PCV system was bad enough, then pressure could have built up to push out crank and cam seals. That's the main reason I did mine, is to prevent that from happening. You may have to get a degreaser and clean everything with a strong water source the best you can, then run a bit to see what spots start getting wet with oil again.
Thanks!
What's crazy if your handy this is one of the easiest cars to fix up yourself. However every car has one nightmare part to change and of all the things this one is it on the Volvo.
Totally agree. It wouldn't be that bad at all if weren't for 2 bolts, and mostly really just the one on the intake manifold. It damn sure could be easier though.
@@FloydNashFixItDad I work on my sisters car. Did her timing belt. And for a side mounted timing belt it was not nearly as hard as I thought.
@@daleravic I let someone else do the timing belt on mine. Looked like more than I wanted to tackle with the variable valve timing and such. I also had the cam and crank seals changed while the timing belt was off.
Hi guys I have a question about the PCV on a 2006 Volvo S60 R. When I do the glove test it sucks in at idle but then blows out when I press the gas. Is it supposed to blow out when adding boost? It's causing my return line o-ring to fail even after replacing the line, o-ring, and gasket after already servicing the PCV. Is there something I missed?
If by blowing out you mean just a little bit, no pressure on the glove, then that's not so bad. It's an older car so probably will have a bit of blowby. If it's actively trying to inflate the glove and apply pressure to it, then you have a lot of blowby. The only way you can get gasses into the crank case is to have them get past the compression rings on the piston. Here is something you can do to test that possibility. Request an oil test kit from Blackstone labs. At about 3000 miles or so, change your oil. Capture a sample mid drain and send it in with a note that you're looking to see if you have excessive blowby. They will be able to tell based on the amount of gas in the oil, which will change the flash point, and will actually get back to you with their thoughts based on their experience. I think the only other possibility is that yes, you have blowby, but there is still a blockage somewhere in the PCV system, like where the box mounts to the block on the bottom, that isn't allowing the PCV system to vacate the gasses as quickly as they should.
Anyway, those are my thoughts. Hopefully that helps.
Thank you!
How did you end up taking the 10 mil bolt that the intake lift from? Did u finally have success with the universal joints?
Yes, using universal and wobble joints worked. I don't remember anything about the 10 mil bolt. Not sure which one you're talking about for certain. Do I mention it at a certain time in the video?
@@FloydNashFixItDad thinking they mean the left side one that bottoms out on the thermostat housing
@@247smith Then yes, had to use a couple of wobble extensions to allow things to "bend" into place. Harbor Freight for the win!
Thanks! A great manual for my fix on my XC90. Thought there is of course some layout differencies in the engine bay. The lover left bolt in the intake manifold was not a problem. However the banjo bolt on the right will be a nightmare to get back on.
Yes, that banjo bolt is a bit difficult. It's not too bad, just have to be patient. Small hands help, so if you have large hands, find a helper!
@@FloydNashFixItDad what was your technic? I cant take out the fresh air pipe totally so it is quite cramped :)
@@mattihamalainen4932 I removed the box that holds the air filter and that let me get to it enough to work on it. The fresh air pipe may be routed slightly different on the XC90.
I need answer to the question what will happen if I cut the hose coming from the head, close the part going to the separator and vent the part coming from the head to the atmosphere by extending it and putting filter at the end of it?
I'm about to do it and I can't find any information on someone else who's done it.
I think what you're going to notice based on things I've tried and seen others try is, as the air inside the motor cools, it contracts and pulls in air from outside and it will pull in thru that vent you create. What happens is you pull in moist air from outside, and the moisture in the air condenses inside. It may not be much, but over time, it adds up. Next thing you know, you have milky looking oil. PCV systems are designed the way they are for a reason, and if you try to bypass that, typically good things won't happen.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Well thank you. That's a point I didn't considere. I have seen such modifications made on other cars who did not have that problem, but again their pcv systems wеre much simpler than the Volvo one.
The reason I'm about to do it is that the pcv system on my s40 is clogged and the mechanics in my area do not acknowledge that kind of maintenance. They tried to rip me off with engine rebuild. I don't feel comfortable trying to replace the system myself due to lack of experience and fear of mistake. Even if I gather the courage to service it, pcv replacement kit is genuine pain to find in my country.
So is it just me or does it not matter which nipple you put the main hose as well as top hose because on FCP PCV video the main line was on the back nipple essentially hugging the block, and the top hose was on the one on the outside.
I think he did it wrong. Mine was as you described. And I looked at another video which was the same. We are talking about the PCV system's black box ...and the hose that goes to the top of engine goes on the black box's top nipple which is closest to front of car.
Many times I used duct tape to securely hold sockets to the end of extensions including inside the socket to hold bolts going back in. Totally helps.
Also, very important. The way I got the difficult 10mm exhaust manifold bolt loose was with a THIN, SMALL socket. NOT a bulky socket. Sockets are made differently. I also used 2 or 3 wobbly extensions. A crows foot socket/wrench did not work. The other very important thing was that that lower bolt only needs loosened A LITTLE and that is all you need...just a little.
Can you do the entire job relying on 1/4" drive ratchet (in terms of the torques) involved)?
That's a rather odd question. It depends on the quality of the tool and how hard the old stuff was torqued down. I think the only thing you may have to worry about is the intake manifold bolts, and they really aren't that super tight. Might be possible, but honestly, a 3/8 set is not expensive.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Thanks. Of course, I do have 3/8" ratchets, but the whole point is to reduce, beforehand, as much as possible, the number of tools you need. ;-)
Such a great video ...I would gladly pay you to do this to my car .Is it possible to upgrade the turbo and blowoff valve ??Thanks Jerry
Thank you. Yes, it's possible to upgrade the turbo, or even adjust the stock wastegate, but, when you do that, you're really going to have to know what you're doing, and you're going to have to find a shop that can tune it properly. The ECU won't understand what's happening and it can cause serious damage to the engine potentially. You may also have to upgrade other items such as fuel injectors and fuel pump if they can't keep up. If you want better performance, you may want to start with a nicer exhaust, and find that tune shop and have them change the tune on the car. Even with stock components, these cars are capable of a good bit more horsepower simply by changing the fuel, boost, and timing maps on the ECU. The stock tune is designed for reliable daily driving for a long, long time, so there is quite a bit of room to adjust that for more performance.
I am sure that those pinch clamps are not just one use clamps and can be reused, but I could be wrong.
You may be right but I don't have the pinch tool to put them back, and regular hose clamps are so cheap I just decided it wasn't worth trying to re-use them.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Yep I hear you there :)
Torque specs for banjo bolts? Volvo XC90 2004 T6
I believe it is 26 nm. I go by feel. You can feel the crush washers as they crush, and as they stop and that feeling gets harder, that's just about right. I might go a teeny bit past that point but not much.
thx you ...
I have a 2006 s60 T5. I'm going to be replacing mine in a friend's garage - I don't have a space to work on my car. Does anyone know if I end up having to drop the oil pan if I can do so without having to raise the engine? Just wanting to make sure I don't get half way thru the job and won't be able to finish.
Yes, I'm pretty sure you would have to unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine up, possibly from above with a hoist since you don't have anything to push against from below.
shouldnt haft to lift the engine to get the oilpan out, just the 30 bolts holding it on....
I have a 2006 S40 T5 with 100K miles.
I have replaced my PCV diaphragm four times in the last 2 years. Three weeks ago I replaced oil filter housing because the diaphragm went bad again. Well, the diaphragm in the new housing is bad also. I obviously have a bigger issue on my hands. Does anybody have a suggestion where to start the troubleshooting at?
You may have to replace then entire PCV system. Go to ipdusa.com and search on 2006 volvo s40 PCV and you'll see it listed there. It also includes the oil filter housing. After replacing, do the "glove test" to see if it tries to inflate the glove or suck it in. If it still tries to inflate it, you have gasses getting into the crankcase from somewhere.
Do i have to drain the oil tank before doing this?
That box part you have to replace isn't an oil tank. The only thing you may have to drain is the coolant, which is super easy and a good idea to replace anyway.
Thank you for saving me money and headache, almost a $1,000 job give or take, injectors and all, so i didn't buy the car,
Depending on the price, mileage, and the condition of the rest of the vehicle, you may not have done a good thing not buying it. Use it as a negotiation tool to bring the price down, have the work done, and enjoy the car for many years.
Where do you live, I'll pay you to do my 06 xc90 hahaha
After doing it once I don't think the second time would be as big of a deal, but still don't know if I would look forward to it.
i like ipd and have parts in front of me at the moment from ipd BUT they are no FCP ...FCP has life time warranty on their parts unlike ipd with 1 year warranty deal... ive done this job on my s60 (2006) and s70(1998). and tip is take the 3 power steering pump out and remove the pump from the bracket ...the struggle is much better for the 2 bolts ...
..........................that job wasnt that bad and 8 hrs for $600 thats money i would save every time.....
>>>>>>now a HARD JOB lets see a steering rack change...OMG !!!!
I'll take your word for it on the steering rack. I don't even want to think about it. I just recently found out about the lifetime warranty for FCP too. Even wear items, they will replace for free as long as you keep track of receipts, order numbers, etc.
@@FloydNashFixItDad even oil yes oil .....you order it online and it has every thing you bought and when you got it under your account... ... my pcv box is now lifetime warranty and its a volvo one too....im trying to get the specials they have 11/3/2020 money off always a WIN !!!
Anyone else just finish this job and watch this to not feel so alone in the pain that this job has inflicted? LOL... wife thinks I'm crazy now I'm starting to believe her after doing this job for 3 days. They always say the first is the worst but I imagine this job is terrible every time.
I've been wondering about that. Now that I know how to do it, I wonder what the 2nd time would be like. If someone wanted to pay me, I would do it. Either way I think it would still somewhat suck simply because a couple of spots things are pretty tight, or that couple of bolts that are really hard to remove.
@@FloydNashFixItDad I honestly fiddled around with that lower left manifold bolt for about a half hour then realized that half hour could have been spent just simply removing the serp belt, PS pump, and t-stat housing. I'm able to remove all of those quickly, less than a half hour while the rad drains, because I have had to replace my alternator three times (moral of the story: DO NOT BUY AN ALTERNATOR THAT DOES NOT USE A BOSCH VOLTAGE REGULATOR).
I often find myself struggling wasting MORE time on these alleged "shortcuts" than just doing the job how VIDA dictates it should be done. A quick trip to Carquest down the road for a $5 t-stat gasket and I was done that part of the job with zero headache that I was inflicting on myself with a variety of wobble extensions, u-joints, and different flex head ratchets.
@@CatfishD I had thought of doing that too so I could get to that bolt easier. I had already started and just decided to keep going. After doing it once, I think I could get to that the 2nd time a lot easier since I know what combination of bits work.
All that knowledge and experience and you don't know the charge pipe goes to the intercooler? 🤔
You apparently haven't seen the video where I replace said charge pipe. Nice try though.
skipped the hardest part, ages spent on easy parts & a lot of talking then nothing to show lower left manifold bolt so unfortunately its not very useful
thanks but your talking like your teaching 3-4 yearsold kids! just go to mains.
Many of the people that are watching this and thinking about doing this aren't super familiar with this stuff, so yes I make it so that they can understand it and feel confident in their ability to do this themselves. If you don't like it, there are other videos you can watch so please make use of them.
@@FloydNashFixItDad sorry but your not right. People who don’t know how to use screwdriver, they never cannot understand what your talking! Your teaching is basic things but your involvement to medium grade.
Best