In this video explain how to apply bees wax to a cotton canvas jacket. Wax allows the jacket to become highly water resistant, almost to the point of water proof.
Thanks for the interest! Unfortunately I don’t wear it as much as I’d like to. Based on other items I’ve waxed, you have to re-wax them every few months in order to stay water repellent. If I were to do this again, I might use an oil-based water proofing execution which would last longer
My treatment of choice is Outback Trading Co.'s Duck Back Dressing, an amazing product. Another excellent product is from Barbour used on all their Barbour coats and jackets since 1894. Both products are made specifically for water proofing canvas coats as your project. Remember, the original Oilskin was created using whale or fish oil and linseed oil, not wax that would become hardened. Both Barbour and Duck Back Dressing are more expensive than the homemade pariffin bees wax combo, but for coats and jackets they would be considerably better to pariffin and bees wax. Caught in cold or rainy weather the coat/cloth will remain soft and malleable providing the protection you desire. True, the pariffin and bees wax mixture will be more water proof, but at the expense of breathability and flexibility. In fact I have seen the Sno-Seal product perform better than pariffin and bees wax mixture on canvas and cotton. When I reproof my oilcloth coats and hats I make sure they are very warm, performing reproofing in the hot sun, or using a heat gun or hair blower, I have known folks using a heat lamp as well. Heating the cloth greatly helps with spreading the wax and the wax will not as quickly setup, also the wax will more smoothly seep into the fabric. Then when finished again use the heat gun on the fabric. Some folks use parchment over the coat then iron it or just an iron as well. When using an iron alone use a old one otherwise the steam holes will clog with wax. Again, when water proofing or reproofing always make sure the coat/fabric is very warm. For the first treatment of a non-oilskin canvas or cotton coat it is often recommended to wash the non oilskin coat/cloth in hot water then let it 100% dry. This will cause the fabric weave to swell creating a tighter weave filling in gaps in the weave. Yes, even after it is 100% dry the coat/cloth will have a tighter weave. Making sure the coat/cloth is very warm, then reproof it. Myself, I stay away from homemade pariffin and bees wax on coats, been-there-done-that, did not like the results. Often in cold weather I have seen the wax become crumbly, YMMV. Please, turn off the background music! It is beyond me why TH-cam content creators think playing background music over the presenter's voice is somehow enhancing their videos. We came to hear you, not to fight background music which quickly becomes extremely annoying, distracting, and intrusive. Many folks have hearing difficulties, thus while concentrating on your voice they must also concentrate on tuning out the music; it is very frustrating. Your background music ruins an otherwise exceptionally good presentation.
Thanks for all the information! Gosh, I feel much more informed and will use oil for my next waterproofing projects. And I appreciate the music critique! I'm a novice when it comes to video editing, so I appreciate the helpful advice!
The brand is Cos. It's a Swedish brand. I don't know what the model is though. Also, that's a great suggestion! I will try that the next time I use wax
@@Chickenwieeeng I live in the States and don't know many Skandinavian brands. The only one I know is Fjellreven. I know you can bring your items into the stores and they will wax it for you
I know it's interesting because paraffin wax is white. My guess is because paraffin wax gives the textile a grey hue and bees wax gives the textile a yellow hue
The way I did it, I had the wax saturate all the way through the textile so it's a bit stiff on skin. But there is no oil residue since the wax turned back into a solid state. If you use less wax then I did then it won't saturate the material and have a better hand-feel on the backside.
Thanks. I'm planning on doing this on a hoodie. I plan on mixing crayons and some candle wax. I might put a few drops of my favorite essential oil so it will smell nice for a long time.
@@vercremade Saturation is the key, otherwise you have wax on the surface only. When cool or cold the wax will begin to crumble, crack, and sluff off, never a good thing.
@@Mushasi_ I don't know if that will be hot enough to set in. Some people just rub the wax on the clothing and that works just fine because the friction from the rubbing melts the wax into the fibers
I ended up using A LOT of wax. Probably 2 pounds or 8 cups of pellets. This way I could fully saturate the jacket. I'm sure if you have a bar of wax you could rub it on and you would use less wax. But with that version the wax would sit on top of the fabric and wouldn't melt into the textile fibers.
is it alright to machine rinse this jacket after hard use? I have a dirty one and I know I can't use detergent but its just impossible to wash it completely by hand.
Most sites recommend only spot cleaning, and only with cold clean water. Warm water softens any wax, and youre likely to just mix in the dirt to the existing wax. Definable don't use a washing machine
👍🏻 I transform my cottonshirts with wax to waterproof hiking, camping gear.
Great channel 👍🏻
Great idea! Thanks for the love!
Great looking jacket!
Thanks!
8 parts paraffin 2 parts beeswax you can add 3% lanolin oil it helps with the application
Thanks for the suggestion!
Did you mean Paraffin wax or normal
paraffin liquid
40% paraffin wax, 40% bees wax, 20% mineral oil (or baby oil)
Thoughts on a real brush… ie NOT FOAM??
I think a real brush will work too!
A mix of 90% parafin wax, to 10% beeswax, with a dash of mineral oil (Baby oil) Is reconed to be the best combination...
Thanks!
Or just buy waterproofing spray for canvas.. Or coat it with clear coat spray paint. Or mink oil.
Good point! But when a waxed canvas breaks in it gets a beautiful patina and looks like leather!
waterproof chemicals use PFAS compounds. you absolutely don't want that.
Can you do a 1-year review on this jacket? :)
Thanks for the interest! Unfortunately I don’t wear it as much as I’d like to. Based on other items I’ve waxed, you have to re-wax them every few months in order to stay water repellent. If I were to do this again, I might use an oil-based water proofing execution which would last longer
Careful when cleaning the pot and instruments, don't pour it down the sink. It could clog the pipes.
Yes, good call. I let the melted wax harden and save it for future use!
My treatment of choice is Outback Trading Co.'s Duck Back Dressing, an amazing product. Another excellent product is from Barbour used on all their Barbour coats and jackets since 1894. Both products are made specifically for water proofing canvas coats as your project. Remember, the original Oilskin was created using whale or fish oil and linseed oil, not wax that would become hardened. Both Barbour and Duck Back Dressing are more expensive than the homemade pariffin bees wax combo, but for coats and jackets they would be considerably better to pariffin and bees wax. Caught in cold or rainy weather the coat/cloth will remain soft and malleable providing the protection you desire. True, the pariffin and bees wax mixture will be more water proof, but at the expense of breathability and flexibility. In fact I have seen the Sno-Seal product perform better than pariffin and bees wax mixture on canvas and cotton.
When I reproof my oilcloth coats and hats I make sure they are very warm, performing reproofing in the hot sun, or using a heat gun or hair blower, I have known folks using a heat lamp as well. Heating the cloth greatly helps with spreading the wax and the wax will not as quickly setup, also the wax will more smoothly seep into the fabric. Then when finished again use the heat gun on the fabric. Some folks use parchment over the coat then iron it or just an iron as well. When using an iron alone use a old one otherwise the steam holes will clog with wax. Again, when water proofing or reproofing always make sure the coat/fabric is very warm. For the first treatment of a non-oilskin canvas or cotton coat it is often recommended to wash the non oilskin coat/cloth in hot water then let it 100% dry. This will cause the fabric weave to swell creating a tighter weave filling in gaps in the weave. Yes, even after it is 100% dry the coat/cloth will have a tighter weave. Making sure the coat/cloth is very warm, then reproof it. Myself, I stay away from homemade pariffin and bees wax on coats, been-there-done-that, did not like the results. Often in cold weather I have seen the wax become crumbly, YMMV.
Please, turn off the background music! It is beyond me why TH-cam content creators think playing background music over the presenter's voice is somehow enhancing their videos. We came to hear you, not to fight background music which quickly becomes extremely annoying, distracting, and intrusive. Many folks have hearing difficulties, thus while concentrating on your voice they must also concentrate on tuning out the music; it is very frustrating. Your background music ruins an otherwise exceptionally good presentation.
Thanks for all the information! Gosh, I feel much more informed and will use oil for my next waterproofing projects. And I appreciate the music critique! I'm a novice when it comes to video editing, so I appreciate the helpful advice!
Nice jacket. What brand and model? Btw, I used a 50/50 blend of bees wax and paraffin. I like the patina.
The brand is Cos. It's a Swedish brand. I don't know what the model is though. Also, that's a great suggestion! I will try that the next time I use wax
Did you mean paraffin wax or normal paraffin liquid
@@trevormacaskill8585 paraffin wax.
@@vercremadewould love some tips for Skandinavian brand shirts to wax 😊 Other than fjellreven and expensive imported carhartts and such :)
@@Chickenwieeeng I live in the States and don't know many Skandinavian brands. The only one I know is Fjellreven. I know you can bring your items into the stores and they will wax it for you
I don't understand why paraffin wax fabric is darker than beeswax fabric?
I know it's interesting because paraffin wax is white. My guess is because paraffin wax gives the textile a grey hue and bees wax gives the textile a yellow hue
I think parafin has a higher melting point than beeswax. Beeswax still workable to a lower temp.
Thanks for the insight!
Wots up dude? Why don’t you try using a rag next time. The chest pockets look like a water trap. Is it wearing good without an inner lining?
Great suggestion! Yeah, the inside is feeling good without a liner
Hi mate, what jacket do you use? I want to make a similar project i have look wenven jackets considering a chore jacket similar to yours
I got mine from COS but you can use any material. Levis could look nice
How does it feel on skin? And does any oil seep into your clothing beneath?
The way I did it, I had the wax saturate all the way through the textile so it's a bit stiff on skin. But there is no oil residue since the wax turned back into a solid state. If you use less wax then I did then it won't saturate the material and have a better hand-feel on the backside.
@@vercremade does it feel tacky at all? Or stick to other clothing?
It feels stiff until you break it in. But it diffidently doesn't stick to other clothing
What’s that square mat that’s covered in paper called ?
The black square mat is a cutting pad. I use it to cut material so it doesn't dull a razor's blade
Thanks. I'm planning on doing this on a hoodie. I plan on mixing crayons and some candle wax. I might put a few drops of my favorite essential oil so it will smell nice for a long time.
Great idea!
@@vercremade how did it turn out ?
It is a bit stiff, although it has broken in with time. I think if I do it again I won't completely saturate it in wax@@toxicsickomane3685
@@vercremade Saturation is the key, otherwise you have wax on the surface only. When cool or cold the wax will begin to crumble, crack, and sluff off, never a good thing.
Why not just dip into the wax, or is there side effects
That could work, but I think it would use more wax and it would be stiffer
@@vercremade i don't have any hair dryer or heating stuffs, what should i do just let in sun
@@Mushasi_ I don't know if that will be hot enough to set in. Some people just rub the wax on the clothing and that works just fine because the friction from the rubbing melts the wax into the fibers
Hey, cool video, thanks for sharing c:
Thanks!
I rub it in with a sponge..
Thanks!
🐝😳🐝 👶👏
Turned out so well
Thanks for the love!
PULL Heated Canvas out of DRYER immediately before sprinkling with wax shavings use heat gun to diffuse deeper into canvas
Great idea!
how much wax did you end up using for the entire jacket?
I ended up using A LOT of wax. Probably 2 pounds or 8 cups of pellets. This way I could fully saturate the jacket. I'm sure if you have a bar of wax you could rub it on and you would use less wax. But with that version the wax would sit on top of the fabric and wouldn't melt into the textile fibers.
@@vercremade I did the rub on method on my jacket and used a heat gun to melt it in. I used 1 and a half bars. The bars came in 30 grams
@@fergspan5727 Thanks for the helpful insight!
is it alright to machine rinse this jacket after hard use? I have a dirty one and I know I can't use detergent but its just impossible to wash it completely by hand.
I don't recommend machine washing waxed clothing. Hand washing with a sponge is that best way to clean even though it's tedious
Most sites recommend only spot cleaning, and only with cold clean water. Warm water softens any wax, and youre likely to just mix in the dirt to the existing wax. Definable don't use a washing machine