__ Lovely. I'm just starting to realize how difficult it is to keep the rain off in this century without poison chemicals. The species is starting to forget how to build a raincoat. This craftsmanship is nice to see.
This Anorak is really beautiful, ive been thinking of trying to home wax a shirt/jacket for farm use here in the UK, but an anorak like this would be incredible! Fantastic craftsmanship, thank you for sharing
I totally agree on the elegancy and simplicity aspect. I, too, think about this often, regarding many different topics. You are not only a craftsman, but also an artist! I am planning to get a hunting license in Germany soon. I'm pretty sold on buying an Anorak from you then, and wearing it for the rest of my life in the outdoors and during hunting!
Wow! I got this video in my recommendations and I am so happy to have watched it! It’s great to see someone making outdoor clothing with a brain! I really enjoyed the demonstration of everything and the explanation of the oiling, I guess for the highest longevity of the proofing the paintbrush might be the best choice! If there had been an 02 Anorak Available I would’ve been mighty tempted! I’m hope everything continues to go smoothly for you and Godspeed!
@@RelaxedRacer many thanks. Yes, the type 2 sold quickly. There are still a few left, and I'll get onto making another batch soon. Great to hear the algorithm working. TH-cam is a hard nut to crack!
@@mathewmoody9676 thankyou, I hope you do. I did distribute the type 1 pattern, but these changes I call type 2 are still cardboard pattern. I don't have the software skills for digitizing patterns.. my aim is to create drawings scaled down to grid, for people to print and copy to an upscaled print.. but time is not with me ATM.
This is so well thought through. I'm new here but a sewer at heart and I would LOVE to buy this pattern for my own (and my husband's) use (no one could aford this jacket if I made it from start to finnish 😂).
@@M_J_nan thankyou. I have a digital pattern for the type 1 anorak, which is similar. And happily email it to anyone who asks. It's a pretty complicated pattern though, which is why I'm working to simplify it. Trouble is though, I don't use software to make the patterns. I have to pay someone to do that. I do plan to scale the patterns by hand drawing to grid.. but haven't had time yet.
Nice work! Years ago I bought a wool anorak at a thrift store in Anchorage made out of an old army blanket similar design bbut not really as waterproof. I like this idea.
@@krimke881 I haven't seen that anorak before, but had a look after your comment. The Pinewood is elastane, polyester and some cotton, and is chemically treated.. the design features are different too, so I guess you're referring to the cut or the "silhouette" as they say in the fashion world. Maybe I found a different anorak with the Pinewood brand name, but if it's the one, I hope you have time for a closer look at the Peak Oil Company anorak.
Well done! Looks great. It’s fantastic of you to share your process. Have you seen the Swedish military poncho that can be used as a hoochie? I’m looking at waxing a thick cotton sheet with a slit in the middle to throw over my head as a ponch. I’d like to attach a hood too. Then do the same with a wool blanket to be worn underneath. A few buttons to keep them together. A picnic blanket of canvas and wool that can be worn. I’m a simple guy. Love your work, best of luck!
I haven't seen that specific poncho, but I have been experimenting with ponchos. They are a wonderful piece of kit. I think an oiled sheet would be fine, especially those hotel grade, 2000 thread count ones. For the head opening, I also did a split.. actually, a rounded rectangle 40x5cm, and put a 60cm high tube off that to make a hood. The reason I did a tube hood was so there would be no opening when I used it as a shelter or blanket. As a tarp, you can pull in one direction, but not much in the other, or the slit will open, but you can roll the tube hood and fasten that too give a little lateral resistance. That's all I'm up to with ponchos...
@@nonipaulette4520 thankyou. I use Artisans Son Fabric Wax, made in South Australia, not using solvents or drying agents, which is a key difference. Absolutely fine in the rain. In fact, performance improves over time, as you wax and rewax. The inside of the jacket loses its initial cost, exposing more of the fibre cotton weave, assisting with comfort and moisture control, the way only natural fibres can.
@@CommunistCommando1 ha, thanks. I'm only skilled at what I can do, and it isn't ever easy. Sometimes I wish I could forget the machines and go hand made all the way.
@@sempi8159 no liner. The wool coat is designed for it.. it used to button in, but I stopped that. I don't sew it in, because it inevitably wears out before the canvas, and repairing it is troublesome
@@sempi8159not really , no, but it's possible in certain conditions. A new jacket is saturated fabric, so if worn over something ansorbant, like a cotton shirt on a hot day, it would be possible that some oil could transfer to that shirt. I wear wool under my anorak, on cold days, so there is no transfer, or if there is, it's very minimal and beneficial to the wool. Over time, as the jacket wears in, the inside dries off, and when you retreat it, that stays on the outside. So a worn in jacket has no issue.
@@sempi8159 the jacket in this video was waxed after construction, so it does not have any wax or oil inside. My other jackets are made from canvas that has been treated in the roll.
Hi! What do you think of Nikwax and other eco-friendly DWR? I've been waxing just like you. Oil wax is close to waterproof but doesn't breathe at all, dry wax soaks in quickly and still not breathable, there's sweat and condensation and all. DWR's seem easier to apply and they might repel water better but still breathe
@@OverCowboy Hello. I've only used nikwax on leather boots, and since making my own formula, I haven't had a need to use it. On breathability though, I have ideas and opinions that seem to differ from the mainstream. Ventilation is most important to me, for managing body heat and sweat. So I place full length zippers down both sides, which enables me to vent, and even take my arms out of the sleeves, which makes a massive difference. Also, having absorbency inside the jacket, and in layers underneath. This is why I prefer a cotton canvas jacket that is waxed only on the outside. This leaves the inside fiber to absorb the vapor, and hold it before condensation, giving a chance for ventilation to clear heat and evaporate moisture. Likewise, undergarments. I wear hemp cotton undergarments, insulated by wool knits and weaves, if conditions warrant it. These materials also hold and conduct vapor, helping to avoid condensation, giving time to ventilate. With this perspective, the breathability of the outer layer, as minimal as that is in reality, is less important.
@@OverCowboy I have seen their website before, and what an impressive range! They must be a large and successful producer in Finland. I see their products are made in Latvia, using polyester fabrics from Korea, which are both interesting sources that I don't know anything about. I'm just one guy producing what I can myself, trying not to use polyester and the like.
@@Peakoilcompany I see! Yes polycotton, but also Ventile. Design wise, your flat opening zippers and a front pocket is way better, but I think they have more adjustable hoods that have a horizontal head trim going all the way front to back.
@@Plaubel17 that block isn't only wax. It's mixed with other things. You can make your own, 1:1:1 beeswax, boiled linseed oil, gum turps. Adjust ratios if you like. For a jacket like this, I would have about 400mL mixed and ready. You won't need all of it.
I don't have any way to digitise my patterns. I used a professional pattern maker for the old design, so I can email that on request, but this new design is only in cardboard. Eventually I will grid it and scale it down for manual, non digital copying
Would you buy it used and worn in a little? I will sell it, when I have the next sample ready. I need at least one with me to model the following ones from.
@@Vimokshadaka I'm 6'2 and the hood is big. This will fit you. Head over to my Instagram, I just posted reel featuring all the colour options in this batch
Awesome! Yet 1060$ for a garment that will get used hard as "work wear" will never be justified. A fair price since this has superior materials to the competition as in no plastic at all would be 500 tops.
@@dimi7055do you say US$500? This is AU$. If you'd like to learn more about pricing, please see the news article on the PeakOilCompany website, about a "Living Wage"
@@Peakoilcompany Didn't know that it was AU$. Better but still very expensive compared to other anoraks. I think you should sell this around 700-800 AU$. Not taking away from your garment tho, it looks like it's the best cotton anorak on the market currently.
@@dimi7055 sadly, it's not possible to make it in Australia and sell it at that price. Other anoraks are made in regions with a significantly lower cost of living, and lower living standards. If you refer to the article I mention, on PeakOilCompany.com News, it explains what a living wage is in Australia now, and that the downward pressure of globalised market rates are now far below the actual cost of living in Australia now. This is creating levels of poverty here that we haven't seen for over 75 years. The article also explains why making offshore is not an option, specifically in countries where people have a standard of living lower than what we would accept in Australia. The quality of the production in many of these countries is generally excellent, but the scale of production and the regulatory structures that safeguard the well-being of workers and prevent pollution, are not transparent enough for us to rely on, let own alone our local concerns. Therefore, we must adjust our own market values and economy to sustain a local industry with a living wage.
__
Lovely. I'm just starting to realize how difficult it is to keep the rain off in this century without poison chemicals. The species is starting to forget how to build a raincoat. This craftsmanship is nice to see.
@@DrDavidThor thankyou.
This Anorak is really beautiful, ive been thinking of trying to home wax a shirt/jacket for farm use here in the UK, but an anorak like this would be incredible! Fantastic craftsmanship, thank you for sharing
@@willhatt5367 thanks Will. I've made quite a few of these for people in the UK. No complaints.
Thanks for this video was amazing and a real work of art.
@@leemueck thankyou!
Thankyou. I can't seem to put the project down. But I really should, and move on to the next thing that keeps me awake at night
This dude deserves more subscribers! that's some talent for design and tailoring!
@@joebast1842 well thankyou! I dunno what it takes to get noticed by the TH-cam machine, but I'll keep trying
Subbed
Fascinating! Thanks for taking the time to explain your thought process. Fantastic work!
@@timwarneka5681 thanks for watching and commenting
I totally agree on the elegancy and simplicity aspect. I, too, think about this often, regarding many different topics. You are not only a craftsman, but also an artist!
I am planning to get a hunting license in Germany soon. I'm pretty sold on buying an Anorak from you then, and wearing it for the rest of my life in the outdoors and during hunting!
Thankyou. Elegant simplicity in everything. May you find and keep the reference in the hunting.
Wow! I got this video in my recommendations and I am so happy to have watched it!
It’s great to see someone making outdoor clothing with a brain!
I really enjoyed the demonstration of everything and the explanation of the oiling, I guess for the highest longevity of the proofing the paintbrush might be the best choice!
If there had been an 02 Anorak Available I would’ve been mighty tempted! I’m hope everything continues to go smoothly for you and Godspeed!
@@RelaxedRacer many thanks. Yes, the type 2 sold quickly. There are still a few left, and I'll get onto making another batch soon. Great to hear the algorithm working. TH-cam is a hard nut to crack!
Adding a bit of Pine Resin in the wax to certain parts could potentially create a full airtight seal, for the pockets for example.
Really well thought out!
Excellent work on this - I like the style and the ingenuity you put in - I want to make one!
@@mathewmoody9676 thankyou, I hope you do. I did distribute the type 1 pattern, but these changes I call type 2 are still cardboard pattern. I don't have the software skills for digitizing patterns.. my aim is to create drawings scaled down to grid, for people to print and copy to an upscaled print.. but time is not with me ATM.
This is so well thought through. I'm new here but a sewer at heart and I would LOVE to buy this pattern for my own (and my husband's) use (no one could aford this jacket if I made it from start to finnish 😂).
@@M_J_nan thankyou. I have a digital pattern for the type 1 anorak, which is similar. And happily email it to anyone who asks. It's a pretty complicated pattern though, which is why I'm working to simplify it. Trouble is though, I don't use software to make the patterns. I have to pay someone to do that. I do plan to scale the patterns by hand drawing to grid.. but haven't had time yet.
@@Peakoilcompanythat’s awesome, I’d love to get one of your patterns! Should I reach out to you via email?
@jakepeverada6096 my replies to your email are bouncing. Says your inbox is full.
Great stuff as always, mate. You truly put great craftsmanship into the anorak.
Thankyou very much. It means a lot to me to know it's appreciated.
awesome design, would love to buy one when you get more
Should have a few online around 10 June
Instagram reel showing all colour options in this batch. I'll get them on the website in the next few days.
For waxing, maybe try finely grating the wax, sprinkle it around and cover with greaseproof paper then go over with an iron.
That is an interesting idea. I'll try it. I'm currently trying the tumble dryer and putting the anorak into a wax absorbing bag
Excellent well thought out craftsmanship.
@@framusburns-hagstromiii808 thankyou. I hope you'll check out the other products I've developed, and maybe subscribe for more to come
Also, a gabardine wool or a thick silk fabric would be great for a super light version.
Nice work! Years ago I bought a wool anorak at a thrift store in Anchorage made out of an old army blanket similar design bbut not really as waterproof. I like this idea.
@@deepbludude4697 I recommend finding a good cotton jacket with minimal pockets and features, and try waxing it to find out about the treatment.
This is very very similar to the Anorak from Swedish brand Pinetree. 👌
Correction: Pinewood
@@krimke881 I haven't seen that anorak before, but had a look after your comment. The Pinewood is elastane, polyester and some cotton, and is chemically treated.. the design features are different too, so I guess you're referring to the cut or the "silhouette" as they say in the fashion world. Maybe I found a different anorak with the Pinewood brand name, but if it's the one, I hope you have time for a closer look at the Peak Oil Company anorak.
Well done! Looks great. It’s fantastic of you to share your process. Have you seen the Swedish military poncho that can be used as a hoochie? I’m looking at waxing a thick cotton sheet with a slit in the middle to throw over my head as a ponch. I’d like to attach a hood too. Then do the same with a wool blanket to be worn underneath. A few buttons to keep them together. A picnic blanket of canvas and wool that can be worn. I’m a simple guy. Love your work, best of luck!
I haven't seen that specific poncho, but I have been experimenting with ponchos. They are a wonderful piece of kit.
I think an oiled sheet would be fine, especially those hotel grade, 2000 thread count ones.
For the head opening, I also did a split.. actually, a rounded rectangle 40x5cm, and put a 60cm high tube off that to make a hood.
The reason I did a tube hood was so there would be no opening when I used it as a shelter or blanket.
As a tarp, you can pull in one direction, but not much in the other, or the slit will open, but you can roll the tube hood and fasten that too give a little lateral resistance.
That's all I'm up to with ponchos...
very nice
i have an anorak rack, "anorack"
i thought i was the only one
zippered pit vents a must
@@alpineflauge909 go all the way to the side and arm seam, open it right up
@@Peakoilcompany i saw, very nice! i need one, well, want is more like it
in Iraq
world class content
Amazing anorak and workmanship thank you for sharing. What type of wax are using and how has it been in the rain?
@@nonipaulette4520 thankyou. I use Artisans Son Fabric Wax, made in South Australia, not using solvents or drying agents, which is a key difference.
Absolutely fine in the rain. In fact, performance improves over time, as you wax and rewax. The inside of the jacket loses its initial cost, exposing more of the fibre cotton weave, assisting with comfort and moisture control, the way only natural fibres can.
Love it!
This is the future!!
Alternative to a plastic clip: cobra buckle. And just listen to that snap 😂
G-hook is also a great cheap option...
Do you sew all your designs? It seems you have thought of everything .
@@CommunistCommando1 yes I do. I'm waiting to meet other seamsters who want to work with me on these ideas.
You have immense skills. I salute you Sir. I can only cause mayhem on a sewing machine and my hand sewing is rudimentary.
@@CommunistCommando1 ha, thanks. I'm only skilled at what I can do, and it isn't ever easy. Sometimes I wish I could forget the machines and go hand made all the way.
Beautiful, thanks for your thorough sharing. What grams of fabric did you use or would you recommend?
@@intekoster92 I think 10 ounce, or 300gsm. But it is also the density of the weave that's important for holding the wax treatment longer
do your anoraks come waxed already?
@@davef5916 yes, they have been. I'm looking into unwaxed canvas to make with, but so far I haven't found anything suitable.
Do these jackets have a liner? Or is it just one layer of waxex canvas?
@@sempi8159 no liner. The wool coat is designed for it.. it used to button in, but I stopped that. I don't sew it in, because it inevitably wears out before the canvas, and repairing it is troublesome
@@Peakoilcompany makes sense. Have you noticed any wax bleeding onto fabric underneath?
@@sempi8159not really , no, but it's possible in certain conditions. A new jacket is saturated fabric, so if worn over something ansorbant, like a cotton shirt on a hot day, it would be possible that some oil could transfer to that shirt. I wear wool under my anorak, on cold days, so there is no transfer, or if there is, it's very minimal and beneficial to the wool. Over time, as the jacket wears in, the inside dries off, and when you retreat it, that stays on the outside. So a worn in jacket has no issue.
@@sempi8159 the jacket in this video was waxed after construction, so it does not have any wax or oil inside. My other jackets are made from canvas that has been treated in the roll.
@@Peakoilcompany thanks for the response!
Hi! What do you think of Nikwax and other eco-friendly DWR? I've been waxing just like you. Oil wax is close to waterproof but doesn't breathe at all, dry wax soaks in quickly and still not breathable, there's sweat and condensation and all. DWR's seem easier to apply and they might repel water better but still breathe
@@OverCowboy Hello. I've only used nikwax on leather boots, and since making my own formula, I haven't had a need to use it. On breathability though, I have ideas and opinions that seem to differ from the mainstream. Ventilation is most important to me, for managing body heat and sweat. So I place full length zippers down both sides, which enables me to vent, and even take my arms out of the sleeves, which makes a massive difference.
Also, having absorbency inside the jacket, and in layers underneath. This is why I prefer a cotton canvas jacket that is waxed only on the outside. This leaves the inside fiber to absorb the vapor, and hold it before condensation, giving a chance for ventilation to clear heat and evaporate moisture.
Likewise, undergarments. I wear hemp cotton undergarments, insulated by wool knits and weaves, if conditions warrant it. These materials also hold and conduct vapor, helping to avoid condensation, giving time to ventilate.
With this perspective, the breathability of the outer layer, as minimal as that is in reality, is less important.
@@Peakoilcompany I see. Thanks for the reply!
@@Peakoilcompany Do you know about Sasta? They seem to do the same thing as you. It's a Finnish company.
@@OverCowboy I have seen their website before, and what an impressive range! They must be a large and successful producer in Finland. I see their products are made in Latvia, using polyester fabrics from Korea, which are both interesting sources that I don't know anything about. I'm just one guy producing what I can myself, trying not to use polyester and the like.
@@Peakoilcompany I see! Yes polycotton, but also Ventile. Design wise, your flat opening zippers and a front pocket is way better, but I think they have more adjustable hoods that have a horizontal head trim going all the way front to back.
How much wax did you had to use for the whole anorak ? Gr ? Thanks
@@Plaubel17 that block isn't only wax. It's mixed with other things. You can make your own, 1:1:1 beeswax, boiled linseed oil, gum turps. Adjust ratios if you like. For a jacket like this, I would have about 400mL mixed and ready. You won't need all of it.
Where can I find your pattern used to make one?
I don't have any way to digitise my patterns. I used a professional pattern maker for the old design, so I can email that on request, but this new design is only in cardboard. Eventually I will grid it and scale it down for manual, non digital copying
What weight canvas do you usually use?
@@leeway3739 10 ounce
Would you consider selling that one?
Would you buy it used and worn in a little? I will sell it, when I have the next sample ready. I need at least one with me to model the following ones from.
@@Peakoilcompany I would definitely buy a used one from you, though I'm 6'3" and hoods often don't fit me.
@@Vimokshadaka I'm 6'2 and the hood is big. This will fit you. Head over to my Instagram, I just posted reel featuring all the colour options in this batch
Awesome! Yet 1060$ for a garment that will get used hard as "work wear" will never be justified. A fair price since this has superior materials to the competition as in no plastic at all would be 500 tops.
@@dimi7055do you say US$500? This is AU$. If you'd like to learn more about pricing, please see the news article on the PeakOilCompany website, about a "Living Wage"
I don’t think anyone cares
@@Peakoilcompany Didn't know that it was AU$. Better but still very expensive compared to other anoraks. I think you should sell this around 700-800 AU$. Not taking away from your garment tho, it looks like it's the best cotton anorak on the market currently.
@@dimi7055 sadly, it's not possible to make it in Australia and sell it at that price. Other anoraks are made in regions with a significantly lower cost of living, and lower living standards.
If you refer to the article I mention, on PeakOilCompany.com News, it explains what a living wage is in Australia now, and that the downward pressure of globalised market rates are now far below the actual cost of living in Australia now. This is creating levels of poverty here that we haven't seen for over 75 years.
The article also explains why making offshore is not an option, specifically in countries where people have a standard of living lower than what we would accept in Australia. The quality of the production in many of these countries is generally excellent, but the scale of production and the regulatory structures that safeguard the well-being of workers and prevent pollution, are not transparent enough for us to rely on, let own alone our local concerns.
Therefore, we must adjust our own market values and economy to sustain a local industry with a living wage.
Lovely ❤