Hi Petzl When I started climbing in 2001 I learned to lower down using the1st technique shown in the video (swapping/alternating hands placing one hand below the other) until one day when I was lowering my friend using the1st technique I accidentally lost control of the brake end of the rope completely. Luckily I reacted very fast and caught the brake end of the rope and my hand got pulled in the belay device and got pinched, my friend who I was belaying stopped several feet off the ground without a scratch. Since then I changed to the 2nd technique which I think is much better way of lowering someone as it reduces the potential for error. I think the 1st technique should not be taught to anyone and would like to know your views on it. PS. The above incident didn't happen in 2001 when I was new to climbing it happened towards the end of 2005 and I had belayed hundreds of times before using the 1st technique (swapping/alternating hands placing one hand below the other).
This is my favorite atc style device. I cross brands like crazy but for the important pieces petzel can’t be beat. It belays so much smoother than most others and the finish and machining is immaculate.
There is one thing that doesn't seem right to me about the video. In all Petzl climbing manuals they advise the use of gloves when belaying a leader, but in this video I have not seen a single glove during the belay examples, not even in the examples that show how to do it. does well. It would be nice if Petzl promoted safety in the right way. It's just an appreciation. All the best.
MrHassancehef Thanks. I understand now. This particular karabiner is unsuitable for belaying with the Reverso device. I just bought a DMM Pivot anyway :)
Damn, when did it become acceptable to teach beginners to slide their hand along brake rope? For my 30+ years climbing the golden rule has been, one hand tight one the brake strand at all times. It's easy to teach and leaves no room for an inattentive moment causing the acceleration to exceed what the person can hold.
@@rban123 you can reverse pbus it, but you’ll short rope your climber, which could be arguably more dangerous than the quarter second of not as firm grip on the rope.
At minute 4:17 the belayer has a faulty stance. One foot should be forward to help absorb the lead climber's fall. Otherwise, the belay will be pulled off their feet into the wall.
+hjprochazka I noticed that when watching the video as well. If it was in 3d I think we'd see that it's more beside than above. If you make the motions standing you'll notice your shoulder is in a much different position if you try to grab the rope above the belay device than if you are off to the side passing loops of the brake line into the arrester.
I think what they mean is to not stay with both hands above the belay all the time. You can pass through that position momentarily for taking rope, but being conscious that you are not breaking at all. In fact, if you don't put your breaking hand above the belay device it's very hard to take rope.
Steven Thaw Hi Steven, We have noticed your discontent in your comments on our video. Could you please contact us at technicalquestions@petzl.com to discuss and understand your comments? Best regards, Petzl
At minute 2:36 the rope is in the WRONG slot of the reverso! The rope should be in the slot nearest the spine of the carabiner! Negligence on your part!
Steven Thaw dude, if you use always the same side of the belay plate, during rappel is going to provide less friction etc you double lifetime of the belay plate, if you alternate of slot....
Just took a belaying course (new climber) and was taught that which slot you use doesn't matter, and it really shouldn't. I mean, in certain cases you're using both, so one really shouldn't be better than the other...
![ประสบการณ์ จ้าง Developer ที่ผมจะไม่มีวันลืม [ภาค1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bzivN4KDg-k/mqdefault.jpg)
Dangerous Dan is cool, who cares if he cant catch, his got swag.
Hi Petzl
When I started climbing in 2001 I learned to lower down using the1st technique shown in the video (swapping/alternating hands placing one hand below the other) until one day when I was lowering my friend using the1st technique I accidentally lost control of the brake end of the rope completely. Luckily I reacted very fast and caught the brake end of the rope and my hand got pulled in the belay device and got pinched, my friend who I was belaying stopped several feet off the ground without a scratch.
Since then I changed to the 2nd technique which I think is much better way of lowering someone as it reduces the potential for error.
I think the 1st technique should not be taught to anyone and would like to know your views on it.
PS. The above incident didn't happen in 2001 when I was new to climbing it happened towards the end of 2005 and I had belayed hundreds of times before using the 1st technique (swapping/alternating hands placing one hand below the other).
This is my favorite atc style device. I cross brands like crazy but for the important pieces petzel can’t be beat. It belays so much smoother than most others and the finish and machining is immaculate.
Hi petzl just to let you know that I have used a 6mm used rope with the reverso and it works 👌🏻
There is one thing that doesn't seem right to me about the video. In all Petzl climbing manuals they advise the use of gloves when belaying a leader, but in this video I have not seen a single glove during the belay examples, not even in the examples that show how to do it. does well. It would be nice if Petzl promoted safety in the right way. It's just an appreciation. All the best.
Very good to show...
Why can you not use the locker SL carabiner with the reverso?
The odd shape hinders braking probably
Great video...thank you.
EXCELENTE!!!!
3:28 Maybe I'm shallow but if someone dressed like that offered me a catch I'd walk away slowly.
That's the whole point! Search for "worlds worst belayer".
What is the sountrack at the end of a video?
Hello
The soundtrack is from Zikali
Best regards
Is a reverso an ATC?
no, a reverso is a tuber as an atc is one. but a reverso is not an atc.
What is she saying at 0:53 ?
hoppy1970 "do not use a carabiner as the locker sl"
MrHassancehef Thanks. I understand now. This particular karabiner is unsuitable for belaying with the Reverso device. I just bought a DMM Pivot anyway :)
They are not using gloves.
Where I climb almost nobody uses gloves... They are not necessary if you belay correctly.
you need to specify which model you are using.
Nina is cute ❤️
Damn, when did it become acceptable to teach beginners to slide their hand along brake rope? For my 30+ years climbing the golden rule has been, one hand tight one the brake strand at all times. It's easy to teach and leaves no room for an inattentive moment causing the acceleration to exceed what the person can hold.
you need to release pressure on the break hand when giving slack, there's no way around it.
@@rban123 you can reverse pbus it, but you’ll short rope your climber, which could be arguably more dangerous than the quarter second of not as firm grip on the rope.
3:56
At minute 4:17 the belayer has a faulty stance.
One foot should be forward to help absorb the lead climber's fall.
Otherwise, the belay will be pulled off their feet into the wall.
Steven Thaw Or a dynamic belay like at 5:22.
back clipped @7:16
Good eyes
never would i have seen this
3:16 Never put both hands above belay device
4:11 Puts both hands above belay device
Wut?
+hjprochazka I noticed that when watching the video as well. If it was in 3d I think we'd see that it's more beside than above. If you make the motions standing you'll notice your shoulder is in a much different position if you try to grab the rope above the belay device than if you are off to the side passing loops of the brake line into the arrester.
I think what they mean is to not stay with both hands above the belay all the time. You can pass through that position momentarily for taking rope, but being conscious that you are not breaking at all.
In fact, if you don't put your breaking hand above the belay device it's very hard to take rope.
Starting at minute 6:59 the belayer continually takes her brake hand OFF the rope!
Help!
Petzl better retape this video!
Steven Thaw this is me again, put the video at slow speed, and you will see she hold rope whole time....
Honey, the first rule is SAFETY!
including knowing how to use the belay device correctly!
Steven Thaw
Hi Steven,
We have noticed your discontent in your comments on our video.
Could you please contact us at technicalquestions@petzl.com to discuss and understand your comments?
Best regards,
Petzl
+Steven Thaw
Hey! thank you for all your hilarious comments. We all had so much fun reading them, laughing our asses off!.. keep it up!
At minute 2:36 the rope is in the WRONG slot of the reverso!
The rope should be in the slot nearest the spine of the carabiner!
Negligence on your part!
Steven Thaw Are you sure? The animated installation graphic at 1:29 shows them using the slot nearest the gate.
Steven Thaw dude, if you use always the same side of the belay plate, during rappel is going to provide less friction etc
you double lifetime of the belay plate, if you alternate of slot....
Just took a belaying course (new climber) and was taught that which slot you use doesn't matter, and it really shouldn't. I mean, in certain cases you're using both, so one really shouldn't be better than the other...
Again, at minute 4:07 the rope is loading the gate!
The rope should be loading the SPINE of the carabiner!
You are so preety girl , whish you where here........... > jack (Poland)
piotr kowalski pervert 😂
the dynamic belay is dangerous and stupid.
So are unnecessarily hard falls.