Danny, You are the bomb. My RV Norcold stopped working. I thought I was going to have to bring it in for service. Nope, fixed it myself because if your great description. I impressed my wife, Happy wife, happy life.
Just wanted to thank you so much for this video! I wasn't getting any power lights on my eyebrow panel in an older camper I bought. I replaced circuit board and am now getting power. Hoping that the cold air will follow! You are a lifesaver!
I learned more about three way fridges from this simple video than from any of the forums and manufacturers manuals and literature I’ve read over the last week. Currently struggling to get the LP function working. I now know what to look for. Thanks!
What a nice chap you are, I'm a full timer of 7 years and ust changed my lpg bottle yesterday and today it won't stay alight, so I'm taking your advice and fingers crossed will have it chilled tomorrow! Thank you!
Hey Wandering, GREAT VIDEO. I have a 1994 Coachman Catalina 19.5 C Class. The exact fridge and this video is execptional. I have the multimeter and did not know the basic settings and you explained this perfect. Stay out and Stay Healthy. DB
Best explanation of all other videos on this subject. Let me just add that if you have a bad battery connection on a class C ( don't know about an A) your refrigerator,monoxide and water pump won't be getting any power either at least it didn't for mine. Check your battery disconnect switches too.
Thank you for your video it really did help me fix my refrigerator I checked it out and it turned out to be the eyebrow which was very convenient since I didn't want to replace the refrigerator now this refrigerator is ice cold I ended up getting a RV for free and I'm trying not to soak too much money into it so thank you
Thanks for the video. I just got back from a weekend camping trip and my refrigerator would not work on AC or propane. It was a little glass fuse on the control board. I would have never found that without your video.
Hey I just want you to know how fantastic your video is. I am such a non-technical person and your video was perfect for me. I love the part where you call it an elbow. That's just the kind of thing I would do. Anyway, the fridge wasn't cooling yesterday at all. Then after watching your video I went down to give it one last try, using my multi-meter to testing things out. Wouldn't you know it! Magically the thing started working. It seemed that while I watched your video, your good juju made its way to my RV. So thankyou! I didn't even have to do anything, except not give up. You are fantastic!
This was well done and just what I needed. actually I needed a little more. like watching you remove the eyebrow and the fuse box circuit board..Newbie's need it all I'm afraid. But I think you just saved me a lot of money.
Thank you for the video.....you remind me of the guy who plays the hairstylist from You don't mess with the Zohan! Great video Good laugh when I remembered that movie
Thanks a lot for this video I'm running a older norcold and I do believe I need a new one. After looking at the insulation around heating element pipes I think the pipes rusted all the way though and leaked out the ammonia. You solved a lot of my questions.
Good video but one note, if the cup is full it doesn't keep more water from coming out. It just overflows. But if there's that much condensation then there's a leak around the door gasket.
We have a class C RV with the Norcord #6162 series that is giving a low DC code Question if there is no power coming through the power cord on the back of the fridge does it have to do with the house battery? Thank you, of all the videos on the 600 series your vid was the Only informative & helpful one
Excellent vidéo! Changed the three components but still working intermittently. ( ign board, burner and ignitor). Could you please show in details how to test for a defective eyebrow board? This might be the culprit.
Came home the other day and the red check light was on, turned it off for a few minutes , turned it back on and the light was off. however it was not cooling after 12 hours. Went to gas, red light was on for a moment and then I could hear the flame was on. 12 hours later, no cooling inside the refer. We had rain over a week before the problem, during the summer months (over 100) I removed the roof vent cap for better airflow, it is back on (over 2 weeks now) since we are getting frost. According to the top panel, it should be working properly; no yellow around any ammonia lines.
Excellent video of troubleshooting!!! Problem is.... Once I replace fuse, hook back up to electric, it runs on A.C. for a minute and blows fuse again. Any further suggestions to trouble shoot?
6:38 - I'm pretty sure that twisted pair of white wires connects to the thermistor, which is the little temperature sensing bulb that's clipped on to the fins inside the back of the lower refrigerator compartment.
Very informative. However, I'm still having issues. I can't get mine to light on propane. I verified that there is spark and the fuel regulator is engaging but I don't think I have any propane coming out to ignite. Please help.
Hi, I have the same Eyebrow assembly ( 6182 Norcold) - I want to test the thermistor first - I think that is what is wrong, because the other things seem to be working, the rod gets hot and there is not a ammonia leak and the test lite on the eyebrow goes to LP when the electric is off. My problem is I do not know how to test the thermistor or how to replace it... . Most thermistor are connected to the inside light - but not mine... Is there a way I can get a hold of you? No one wants to help me because it is an RV refrigerator... Can you show me how to test and replace the thermistor for this model? Or suggest someone I can ask? Thanks for you video very helpful !
NewNow...there are videos on youtube just for the test on a thermistor. Its's an ohms test I believe. They are really just $20 at Amazon and very easy to change out. Hope this helps!!
For mine, the AC light comes on for a second and then goes away. It also doesn't switch to gas when the light goes away. It was running just fine and one day I noticed it wasn't running anymore.
At 8:19 you state that J17 is the AC input to the 'brow board'... it is not. J17 on the 'brow board' IS the input for the temperature sensor inside the fridge located on the cooling fins of the inside back. The RJ45 jack is where the RJ45 8 conductor plug inserts. This DOES provide power, switch and indicator functions to the 'brow board'.
First of all let me say thank you for this very informative video. I have an older norcold (don't know the model) but the guts are essentially the same as this one with no auto setting, just gas/ac switch. I replaced the fuse to the heater element and now it is heating. There is no evidence of ammonia leaks but the fridge is still not cooling. I am only trying to run this on ac, not propane. Do i need to replace my circuit bard in the front?
Can you tell me where i can get a wiring diagram for this circuit board? I purchased my rv used and it's missing. I've since purchased a replacement but have no idea how to connect it. Thanks
There's only one way you could have made your video better and that was to link it with Amazon so we could have went straight to it and bought the product thank you for your video so much
My freezer cools perfectly (well below 20 degrees). But the fridge won't cool below 50 degrees. Any idea what could be wrong? Where are the channels that conduct cool air from the freezer to the fridge? Although there is a condensor in the fridge ??
Thanks Danny ! My inside lights on the eyebrow board light up but stopped running on ac or propane . The ammonia has not leaked and i have a "Dinosaur" brand igniter replacement (no longer sparking) I conirmed voltages . Could the eyebrow board have lights but keep everything from working? (Shows a fault) SO , just confirming ; yours failed both ways , ac/dc also ? Mine failed during rain also . Thanks for a great tutelage and I'll be checking tomorrow . Edit : Just ordered a Dinosaur eyebrow board . Should be here by Dec 5th .
My husband had a good laugh watching this. Our rv frig isn't working and he is a technician. The guy in the video said he couldn't remember which lead to heating element went where because they are both black. But it's 120vac! So it doesn't matter! Even I know that. it's obviously for raw rookies. And that's ok. But a tech shouldn't admit he didn't know where two 120vac wires go with only two lugs to chose from! ha ha ha...
I have an issue the same as others and it is on the Norcold 600 series just like in this video. It runs excellent on 110 electric but when I try to run it on propane it faults. It runs for 10 sec ignition lights the flame, ignition stops trying to light, flame last a few seconds and I can hear the in-line auto gas valve shut. Idea's ? I will say the flame I hear in your video is a lot louder than the one I hear on my camper.
I am currently replacing my eyebrow circuit board but the Ethernet looking cable has melted inside the plug. Looking for advice on how to fish a new line or how to attach a new end on the cable. thanks
I have a Norcold 621. It was partially pulled out of the cavity and connections came loose and sparked. Have since replaced both power and display board. Tested all fuses, breakers, power from outlet and 12vdc power. All works. However, no power through wiring harness to display and as such display will not light. Any ideas? I'm pretty desperate here as this is my residence.
Watched your video and started trouble shooting my norcold N611. Opened it up, looked for the flame, unplugged it to check voltage and it started up. When I plugged it back in the flame turns off. It runs on electric(shore power) but not propane....what steps would I take next?
my Norcold N841MR hasn't work on AC for years always LP here lately takes serval tries before stays lite. When it ignites has good blue flame I hear some clicks put then blue flame goes out. FL flashes on panel start over after about ten time stays lite. What's going wrong?
Need help: I've check everything voltage ,fuses, LP, thermistor, fans, no yellow power or ammonia and I also had a rv tech come and look at my dometic fridge and no one can find out the problem
Hello Just bought an older camper that the refrigerator was missing Looked around and finally found one at a good price My mistake was not plugging it up to see if it worked The seller said it worked fine Took it home installed it waited 2 days before plugging it up and it will not run What do I need to check I reached out to the seller that that assured me it worked fine
Thanks Danny. Got a question though, will you be able to supply me the the Part # on that Gas Ignition Control and the Spark Sense Electrode you have in that Unit. I have the exact Unit, but ant find parts for it. Thank you for a good Video. Hennie
@@farmboysdelite I will take a photo of mine and send them to you. All 3 I have. Are equipped with a separate input for AC, and one for DC/Ohms One is a micronta kit build The other is a fluke....it’s probably 50 years old And the other is one of those shitty...hazard fraud jobs....which one do you want?.....e mail address?
Got a question I got a norcold 6062 when I plug the coach into shore power and turn the fridge on I hear it gurgling and inside the fridge gets hot instead of cold after a little while . It is a 1992 but in great shape with only 24,000 Miles on it any ideas what to check ? I never tried it on gas though either
I have a norcold fridge I can get it to light on propane but it only stays lit for about 20 seconds then it shuts off and throws a fault on the fridge is shows an f on the fridge display I cleaned out the burner of rust
Danny, I've been working on my Norcold 1201lrim refrigerator. I found two fuses. One 5amp glass and one 5 amp plug in located on the control board. The 5 amp glass was blown. I've replaced it twice and it keeps blowing. Any thoughts on what it could be? I'm at loss. HELP!
Chris A not a problem! thanks for watching. and yes I did have to remove the freezer door to get it out but I did not have to remove the freezer door to loosen the three screws holding the elbow.
Here it is 4 years later and this video still extremely helpful!
Danny, You are the bomb. My RV Norcold stopped working. I thought I was going to have to bring it in for service. Nope, fixed it myself because if your great description. I impressed my wife, Happy wife, happy life.
Just wanted to thank you so much for this video! I wasn't getting any power lights on my eyebrow panel in an older camper I bought. I replaced circuit board and am now getting power. Hoping that the cold air will follow! You are a lifesaver!
I learned more about three way fridges from this simple video than from any of the forums and manufacturers manuals and literature I’ve read over the last week.
Currently struggling to get the LP function working. I now know what to look for.
Thanks!
What a nice chap you are, I'm a full timer of 7 years and ust changed my lpg bottle yesterday and today it won't stay alight, so I'm taking your advice and fingers crossed will have it chilled tomorrow! Thank you!
BRUCE LEE I hope it worked out for you!!! I'm so glad that others do videos bc that's how I usually know how to fix things that are broken!
That's one of the better diy videos I've seen. Very clear and thoughtful explanations. Thanks for taking the time.
I know this is 5 years old, but thank you for putting this on TH-cam.
You’re a life saver 4 years later keep it up bro
Hey Wandering, GREAT VIDEO. I have a 1994 Coachman Catalina 19.5 C Class. The exact fridge and this video is execptional. I have the multimeter and did not know the basic settings and you explained this perfect. Stay out and Stay Healthy. DB
Fantastic. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. This is the best explanation I've seen.
Best explanation of all other videos on this subject. Let me just add that if you have a bad battery connection on a class C ( don't know about an A) your refrigerator,monoxide and water pump won't be getting any power either at least it didn't for mine. Check your battery disconnect switches too.
I haven't found a better explanation with such plain instructions. You did a very good job. Thank you.
Thank you for your video it really did help me fix my refrigerator I checked it out and it turned out to be the eyebrow which was very convenient since I didn't want to replace the refrigerator now this refrigerator is ice cold I ended up getting a RV for free and I'm trying not to soak too much money into it so thank you
Great video! Thank you for the simple, straight forward, step-by-step instructions.
Thanks for the video. I just got back from a weekend camping trip and my refrigerator would not work on AC or propane. It was a little glass fuse on the control board. I would have never found that without your video.
One of the best vids out here...I just wish you had a vid of N611 model darn it.
Hey I just want you to know how fantastic your video is. I am such a non-technical person and your video was perfect for me. I love the part where you call it an elbow. That's just the kind of thing I would do. Anyway, the fridge wasn't cooling yesterday at all. Then after watching your video I went down to give it one last try, using my multi-meter to testing things out. Wouldn't you know it! Magically the thing started working. It seemed that while I watched your video, your good juju made its way to my RV. So thankyou! I didn't even have to do anything, except not give up. You are fantastic!
Thanks for awesome explanation , clear instruction it help me to fix my fridge it was the blown fuse inside in the power supply box .
This was well done and just what I needed. actually I needed a little more. like watching you remove the eyebrow and the fuse box circuit board..Newbie's need it all I'm afraid. But I think you just saved me a lot of money.
Great very amazed of the way you Explain simple and easy to Understand great Job! Bro
Thanks ,You helped me a lot.I AM from México and is complicated to find help with norcold refrigerator
Good amateur technical video. Good enough to help some people out so that is all that matters. Glad you posted this.
Great video. Led me directly to my problem and a easy fix. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Found a blown fuse in the power control panel on the back of the fridge.
Thank you for the video.....you remind me of the guy who plays the hairstylist from You don't mess with the Zohan!
Great video
Good laugh when I remembered that movie
Very good explanation & steps needed to find out what caused what! Thank you so much!
Thanks a lot for this video I'm running a older norcold and I do believe I need a new one. After looking at the insulation around heating element pipes I think the pipes rusted all the way though and leaked out the ammonia. You solved a lot of my questions.
Excellent video, very descriptive and thorough.
I just got a crash course in my refrigerator! Thank you!
THANKS, PULLED MY BUTT OUT OF THE FIRE. SIMPLE , DIRECT, EASY TO UNDERSTAND.
WHAT MORE COULD A GUY ASK FOR.
JIM.
I'm so glad this helped you out! :)
Great instuctional vid. My norcold is cooling but not like it used to. I am going to check all the things you mentioned then move on from there
Danny thanks for a very informative and well done video you are the man
Wonderful, short and informative! Thank you tremendously
Thanks for the video and you were correct even though your fuse looks ok you should test it. Thanks again I’m back to being a happy camper.
Push up! Brother.! Very awesome upload. Thank you
Excellent video. Extremely helpful. Thank you
Absolute goat. Helped fix ours!
Great video. As a result, have just started following you on the “Tube”.
Good video but one note, if the cup is full it doesn't keep more water from coming out. It just overflows. But if there's that much condensation then there's a leak around the door gasket.
Excellent video and everything very nicely explained.
We have a class C RV with the Norcord #6162 series that is giving a low DC code
Question if there is no power coming through the power cord on the back of the fridge does it have to do with the house battery? Thank you, of all the videos on the 600 series your vid was the Only informative & helpful one
I'll give a sub for that. Really helpful info. Will definitely help tackle my fridge issue.
Thank God for this video this man is awsome you rock man you rock
Great info. Thanks. Please tell me how to fix gas okay needle green. (burner all working good) Eddie.
Excellent vidéo! Changed the three components but still working intermittently. ( ign board, burner and ignitor). Could you please show in details how to test for a defective eyebrow board? This might be the culprit.
@Guy... Is it working intermittently on AC or Gas? Or not sure?
Came home the other day and the red check light was on, turned it off for a few minutes , turned it back on and the light was off. however it was not cooling after 12 hours. Went to gas, red light was on for a moment and then I could hear the flame was on. 12 hours later, no cooling inside the refer. We had rain over a week before the problem, during the summer months (over 100) I removed the roof vent cap for better airflow, it is back on (over 2 weeks now) since we are getting frost. According to the top panel, it should be working properly; no yellow around any ammonia lines.
Excellent video. God bless you!
Hey Danny, was watching your video and it helped out a lot, but I can’t get the part to come up on Amazon I’m wondering how did you describe? The part
Excellent video of troubleshooting!!! Problem is.... Once I replace fuse, hook back up to electric, it runs on A.C. for a minute and blows fuse again. Any further suggestions to trouble shoot?
6:38 - I'm pretty sure that twisted pair of white wires connects to the thermistor, which is the little temperature sensing bulb that's clipped on to the fins inside the back of the lower refrigerator compartment.
Yes. Typically a low voltage system will have twisted wires to prevent any electromagnetic interference from affecting readings.
your awesome, great job! your really helped me.
Very helpful! For some reason, we keep blowing the 5 amp fuse.
Very informative. However, I'm still having issues. I can't get mine to light on propane. I verified that there is spark and the fuel regulator is engaging but I don't think I have any propane coming out to ignite. Please help.
Very helpful! For some reason we keep blowing the 5 amp fuse.
Very through explanation of how to do basic troubleshooting. The person that used that wire instead of a fuse gets 20 lashes.
Hi, I have the same Eyebrow assembly ( 6182 Norcold) - I want to test the thermistor first - I think that is what is wrong, because the other things seem to be working, the rod gets hot and there is not a ammonia leak and the test lite on the eyebrow goes to LP when the electric is off. My problem is I do not know how to test the thermistor or how to replace it... . Most thermistor are connected to the inside light - but not mine... Is there a way I can get a hold of you? No one wants to help me because it is an RV refrigerator... Can you show me how to test and replace the thermistor for this model? Or suggest someone I can ask? Thanks for you video very helpful !
NewNow...there are videos on youtube just for the test on a thermistor. Its's an ohms test I believe. They are really just $20 at Amazon and very easy to change out. Hope this helps!!
Great video. Very informative.
Well made video!
I didn't take my picture of the wires and got them all mixed up. Do you know how I can figure out the proper place to plug them in?
For mine, the AC light comes on for a second and then goes away. It also doesn't switch to gas when the light goes away. It was running just fine and one day I noticed it wasn't running anymore.
What a great 👍🏻 video thank you 👏👏👏
Gracias 🙂
At 8:19 you state that J17 is the AC input to the 'brow board'... it is not. J17 on the 'brow board' IS the input for the temperature sensor inside the fridge located on the cooling fins of the inside back. The RJ45 jack is where the RJ45 8 conductor plug inserts. This DOES provide power, switch and indicator functions to the 'brow board'.
@Michael I saw the same thing, I just couldn't break his heart. As a RV Tech, his Vid was hard to watch, but...who am I??
Thanks for the video,, help me a lot....EXELLENT.
Is there more than two fuses in the Norco refrigerator on a RV
Thank you so much your video is very informative .
First of all let me say thank you for this very informative video. I have an older norcold (don't know the model) but the guts are essentially the same as this one with no auto setting, just gas/ac switch. I replaced the fuse to the heater element and now it is heating. There is no evidence of ammonia leaks but the fridge is still not cooling. I am only trying to run this on ac, not propane. Do i need to replace my circuit bard in the front?
also, the rv has been leveled and chocked and all the 12v circuitry has the proper voltage showing on my meter.
Can you tell me where i can get a wiring diagram for this circuit board? I purchased my rv used and it's missing. I've since purchased a replacement but have no idea how to connect it. Thanks
Great clip.I have a no cold that keeps shutting off I turn it back on but can't relief length it will stay on Can you give me any suggestions
A no cold - lol! That's what I'm going to call mine if it keeps working as poorly as it seems to be now.
Can’t find the eyebrow board I need one like the one you replaced in the video
There's only one way you could have made your video better and that was to link it with Amazon so we could have went straight to it and bought the product thank you for your video so much
Good job. thanks .
Which red wire goes where on the gas solenoid?
Great video
So thorough. Thank you. I will do this today!
My freezer cools perfectly (well below 20 degrees). But the fridge won't cool below 50 degrees. Any idea what could be wrong? Where are the channels that conduct cool air from the freezer to the fridge? Although there is a condensor in the fridge ??
Thanks You I aam sp glad youposted this
How about if I’m not getting power ac power to the refrigerator? I got a 0.0 reading at the outlet.
Thanks Danny ! My inside lights on the eyebrow board light up but stopped running on ac or propane . The ammonia has not leaked and i have a "Dinosaur" brand igniter replacement (no longer sparking) I conirmed voltages . Could the eyebrow board have lights but keep everything from working? (Shows a fault) SO , just confirming ; yours failed both ways , ac/dc also ? Mine failed during rain also .
Thanks for a great tutelage and I'll be checking tomorrow .
Edit : Just ordered a Dinosaur eyebrow board . Should be here by Dec 5th .
My husband had a good laugh watching this. Our rv frig isn't working and he is a technician. The guy in the video said he couldn't remember which lead to heating element went where because they are both black. But it's 120vac! So it doesn't matter! Even I know that. it's obviously for raw rookies. And that's ok. But a tech shouldn't admit he didn't know where two 120vac wires go with only two lugs to chose from! ha ha ha...
Brenda Gehrke h
I have an issue the same as others and it is on the Norcold 600 series just like in this video. It runs excellent on 110 electric but when I try to run it on propane it faults. It runs for 10 sec ignition lights the flame, ignition stops trying to light, flame last a few seconds and I can hear the in-line auto gas valve shut. Idea's ? I will say the flame I hear in your video is a lot louder than the one I hear on my camper.
Rad vid bro thanks
I am currently replacing my eyebrow circuit board but the Ethernet looking cable has melted inside the plug. Looking for advice on how to fish a new line or how to attach a new end on the cable. thanks
Didn’t help me with norcold fridge but very informative
I have a Norcold 621. It was partially pulled out of the cavity and connections came loose and sparked. Have since replaced both power and display board. Tested all fuses, breakers, power from outlet and 12vdc power. All works. However, no power through wiring harness to display and as such display will not light. Any ideas? I'm pretty desperate here as this is my residence.
Watched your video and started trouble shooting my norcold N611. Opened it up, looked for the flame, unplugged it to check voltage and it started up. When I plugged it back in the flame turns off. It runs on electric(shore power) but not propane....what steps would I take next?
Question need propane gas for fridge work ?
my Norcold N841MR hasn't work on AC for years always LP here lately takes serval tries before stays lite. When it ignites has good blue flame I hear some clicks put then blue flame goes out. FL flashes on panel start over after about ten time stays lite. What's going wrong?
Very well done.
Need help: I've check everything voltage ,fuses, LP, thermistor, fans, no yellow power or ammonia and I also had a rv tech come and look at my dometic fridge and no one can find out the problem
Hello Just bought an older camper that the refrigerator was missing Looked around and finally found one at a good price My mistake was not plugging it up to see if it worked The seller said it worked fine Took it home installed it waited 2 days before plugging it up and it will not run What do I need to check I reached out to the seller that that assured me it worked fine
I hooked power directly to the refrigerator and nothing came on N noise no later light Was like
No power was getting to the unit Any suggestions
Thanks Danny. Got a question though, will you be able to supply me the the Part # on that Gas Ignition Control and the Spark Sense Electrode you have in that Unit. I have the exact Unit, but ant find parts for it.
Thank you for a good Video.
Hennie
Any idea of what triggers the inside light off and on on Norcold 611?
Remember on your VOM when changing from AC volts to Ohms resistance. It usually is necessary to switch the red lead coming out of your VOM to Ohms
Not on any meter I ever owned!
@@farmboysdelite I will take a photo of mine and send them to you. All 3 I have. Are equipped with a separate input for AC, and one for DC/Ohms
One is a micronta kit build
The other is a fluke....it’s probably 50 years old
And the other is one of those shitty...hazard fraud jobs....which one do you want?.....e mail address?
Sorry you have all old crappy meters
@@farmboysdelite that’s me.....old and crappy
Thanks great video
Got a question I got a norcold 6062 when I plug the coach into shore power and turn the fridge on I hear it gurgling and inside the fridge gets hot instead of cold after a little while . It is a 1992 but in great shape with only 24,000 Miles on it any ideas what to check ? I never tried it on gas though either
I have a norcold fridge I can get it to light on propane but it only stays lit for about 20 seconds then it shuts off and throws a fault on the fridge is shows an f on the fridge display I cleaned out the burner of rust
It's sounds like either your thermometer or burner needs to be cleaned or is broken. What model do you have?
I'm having the same problem as Shane. My Propane tank was just filled so it's not that.
Real helpful thank you.
Danny, I've been working on my Norcold 1201lrim refrigerator. I found two fuses. One 5amp glass and one 5 amp plug in located on the control board. The 5 amp glass was blown. I've replaced it twice and it keeps blowing. Any thoughts on what it could be? I'm at loss. HELP!
Well done. Thanks
Thanks for the great video! Did you have to remove the freezer door in order to remove the eyebrow circuit board??
Chris A not a problem! thanks for watching. and yes I did have to remove the freezer door to get it out but I did not have to remove the freezer door to loosen the three screws holding the elbow.
eyebrow I mean, using speech to text.