For anyone asking about the friction modifier: The friction modifier is only for the limited slip differentials that Ford trademarks as: Traction-Lok axle. If you have electronic locking differential then you won't need the friction modifier. You can tell by looking at your door jam sticker under "Axle" If you see the two letter code L3, L4, L5, L6, or L9 then you have electronic locking differential and don't need the friction modifier.
Drains faster and is much cleaner if you leave a couple bolts on the top instead of the bottom.... plus you need to see if the fill bolt will come off first or you have a truck with a empty diff and unable to fill it
I did this a few days ago. After removing the diff cover and cleaning the surfaces thoroughly, I reinstalled the cover using a LubeLocker gasket. No rtv required. Makes future work a lot easier.
I don’t think those years need the friction modifier anymore. Those diffs don’t contain clutch packs anymore. Plus when taking diff cover off just leave one bolt in the top instead. Way cleaner and makes more sense.
Leave a bolt at top and pry from the bottom. Bolt left in at bottom and pry at the bottom is asking for problems. Possibly distorting the cover and creating a potential leak.
Or get a mag-hytec rear differential cover like I did which doubles the amount of fluid that the stock holds which the oil stays cooler and cleaner. It has built in seal o ring , fill plug that has a magnetic rod built in to it, and a drain plug. So well worth the money.
Things I noticed: 1. Must be a continuous bead of seal. 2. Bolts must be torque to spec with a torque wrench. 3. Obviously you should leave the bolts on the top while draining not the bottom. Other then that great job👍
It will more often than not cause a leak because the seal just isn't tight enough. You want to squeeze the gasket enough to tell it's being squeezed but do not allow it to blow out. I tighten a little at a time repeating the star pattern each time until desired torque. Doing this allows the gasket to get even pressure as you tighten to avoid over tightening in one spot and even distribution of clamping force.
my 2004 ford f150 makes a rumble/shake when turing. have about 125k on it. do i need to add the additive or drain and start from scratch? will that fix the noise.
You dont have to change the gasket.....usually you dont use a gasket. Its also a good idea to take the cover off completly to get all the fluid on the bottom of the diff case and wipe everything down. Otherwise your just mixing new fluid with old fluid when doing the drain and fill method.
So the thermostat sits where it needs to sit. Maybe you don't need to put the seal on top but it was no big deal to keep in. Thank you so much for watching!
My 2011 f150 has 93,000 miles on it. The manual says the rear diff has ‘lifetime’ differ oil (150,000 miles) in it. However since my truck is 10 years old should I change the fluid anyway?
For anyone asking about the friction modifier:
The friction modifier is only for the limited slip differentials that Ford trademarks as: Traction-Lok axle. If you have electronic locking differential then you won't need the friction modifier. You can tell by looking at your door jam sticker under "Axle" If you see the two letter code L3, L4, L5, L6, or L9 then you have electronic locking differential
and don't need the friction modifier.
First you need to see if the fill plug can be unscrewed if not you're stuck with the empty diff
You will need to get that plug out one way or an other anyways to fill it. Thanks for watching!
@@2carproshe means to check it first before you drain the fluid because if it doesn’t come out you are screwed
Yes, always unscrew the fill plug first!! No matter the situation, common sense.. good video though
@@claytonbonds2579 I mean, it doesnt really matter, either way that plugs gotta come out. Are you just not gonna do the job if its stuck?
I was just about to mention that. I rather have dirty diff fluid than no fluid 😅
Drains faster and is much cleaner if you leave a couple bolts on the top instead of the bottom.... plus you need to see if the fill bolt will come off first or you have a truck with a empty diff and unable to fill it
I did this a few days ago. After removing the diff cover and cleaning the surfaces thoroughly, I reinstalled the cover using a LubeLocker gasket. No rtv required. Makes future work a lot easier.
Nice work!
I don’t think those years need the friction modifier anymore. Those diffs don’t contain clutch packs anymore. Plus when taking diff cover off just leave one bolt in the top instead. Way cleaner and makes more sense.
Think only the limited slip uses friction modifier. Not the e-locker or open diffs.
Leave a bolt at top and pry from the bottom. Bolt left in at bottom and pry at the bottom is asking for problems. Possibly distorting the cover and creating a potential leak.
Or get a mag-hytec rear differential cover like I did which doubles the amount of fluid that the stock holds which the oil stays cooler and cleaner. It has built in seal o ring , fill plug that has a magnetic rod built in to it, and a drain plug. So well worth the money.
Things I noticed:
1. Must be a continuous bead of seal.
2. Bolts must be torque to spec with a torque wrench.
3. Obviously you should leave the bolts on the top while draining not the bottom.
Other then that great job👍
I'm new to this...I wish 2CarPros posted the socket size and torque specs too. Great video though.
You guys have the best videos !
Thanks so much for watching!
Why you don't torque the bolts with torque wrench?
It will more often than not cause a leak because the seal just isn't tight enough. You want to squeeze the gasket enough to tell it's being squeezed but do not allow it to blow out. I tighten a little at a time repeating the star pattern each time until desired torque. Doing this allows the gasket to get even pressure as you tighten to avoid over tightening in one spot and even distribution of clamping force.
Different but informing. Not sure what the chisel was for as I use a Screwdriver. Good Job.
Is the procedure much different on a 2010 F150. Great video but your music choice could be better. I felt like I was stuck in an elevator 😂😂😂
Thanks for the great videos! I'd love a front differential fluid change on a '13 F150! 😁
Thank you for watching! I would too! I just need one to come across my path.
@@2carpros you can borrow mine lol
Do it how ya wanna brother, your way is how ya do it,,bunch of micro managers on here
Yeah everyone is a critic. Thanks for watching!
I would like to know specifically what type/brand/product number of sealant to use.
Some say you can't do both gasket and rvt. It's one or the other.
I like to use a small bead of RTV on it to make sure it doesn't leak. Thanks for watching!
All ford gaskets from factory have some sort of sealant from what I've seen. It's extra gasket, why not.. better safe then sorry.
@@robertgill8833I believe that would just make it more likely to leak.. just seems like it but don't know for sure
@PeedPeeBody From what I read, that's a standard way. Personally, I did an oil pan gasket with a small bead. It's been over year zero leaks.
That music 😂
Great Video !
Thank You .
Thanks for watching Chet!
my 2004 ford f150 makes a rumble/shake when turing. have about 125k on it. do i need to add the additive or drain and start from scratch? will that fix the noise.
Buy new truck
I wish they used a plug for draining the fluid like Toyota does instead of having to replace the gasket each time.
You dont have to change the gasket.....usually you dont use a gasket. Its also a good idea to take the cover off completly to get all the fluid on the bottom of the diff case and wipe everything down. Otherwise your just mixing new fluid with old fluid when doing the drain and fill method.
Hello from Colombia.
What is the SAE for this differential oil fluid??
2011-2014 75-140 full synthetic
The boats from the bottom to keep the box in the top part of the flange so that it will drain better
Would have kept the bolts in the top and took the ones on the bottom out so it had better drainage
You did great just helping someone out to help me out thanks a lot for the video you’re awesome
Thanks for watching Travis!
whats point of gasket when your using sealer too?
So the thermostat sits where it needs to sit. Maybe you don't need to put the seal on top but it was no big deal to keep in. Thank you so much for watching!
@@2carpros A differential with thermostat??? KEWL! I'm going to fix my flux capacitor then reseat my rear differential thermostat!
@@yilancio right!
@@yourselfdotcomlol lmao
Thanks guys. I would have forgot the friction additive. I also would have started the job and found out there is a seal needed for this differential.
Thank you so much for watching!
What kind of additive do i have to use for my 2011 ford f150 5.0 lariat 4x4 ????
My 2011 f150 has 93,000 miles on it. The manual says the rear diff has ‘lifetime’ differ oil (150,000 miles) in it. However since my truck is 10 years old should I change the fluid anyway?
I like to do them right around 100000 miles. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros so really it’s a mileage thing NOT a time/years thing?
@@hixnada8278 if I was in your shoes I'd take care of it now. 10 years and close to 100,000 miles is definitely a safe bet.
Why does it look wet on the left side? Is it leaking
Don't you have to let the sealant cure for 24 hours? that's what mine says on the back of the tube
If that's what it says on the tube. On mine it said 2 hours or so. Hard to remember that far back. Thanks for watching!
I use Permatex and that sets in an hour or two and cures in about 24.
wats about raptor style axles.
um mine fill plug in on the top side not the bottom as be shown here.
the music is like nails on a chalk board.
Makes me want to punch my eardrums with an ice pick
Why couldn’t you just use a two way hand pump and suck out the differential fluid and then pump back in the new..?
How many quarts are used?
2 and some change so buy 3. Thanks for watching!
Does the friction addictive need to be added to all rear differentials? I have a 2014 f150 with no clutch disc.
If it has a limited slip that requires it yes. Thanks for watching!
If you use a gasket, why use silicone?
So it doesn't leak. Check this video out. th-cam.com/video/cx9rfHvGe8U/w-d-xo.html
do I have use ford gear oil?
Jeff Magee sr no. The best is Schaeffer but I like mobil 1 also.
You missed showing cleaning the mating surfaces. A critical component to a top level job. Tsk tsk
how often should this be done
Around every 50k but check your owner's manual to be sure. Thanks for watching!
this would be 110000000 easier if they would just add a drain plug from the factory.
True! Thanks for watching!
Why on earth did you even bother there’s a drain plug on the bottom butt heads