In this video we go over the only logical method to maintaining the Front Differential on your Ford Truck.These are the Parts and Tools I Recommend: 80W-90 Axle Fluid (2 Quarts Needed)- amzn.to/2FQRtJA Thread Sealant- amzn.to/2FSNxrL Basic Brake Bleeder- amzn.to/2FQ157r High Suction Brake Bleeder- amzn.to/2pnDjIC Fill Pump- amzn.to/2pipJqK Fill Plug Torque Spec- 18ft lbs
Just tried this, and while it wasn’t bad, it is much more difficult with the truck on level ground (rather than on jackstands or a lift). There is not much space to get under the truck to access the differential. Next time, I’ll put all four corners up on jackstands. The 20 minutes it will take to jack up the truck will save at least an hour. Also, warming the new gear lube (I set the bottles in a tub of hot water) makes pumping the lube into the differential much easier. Another great video, though. Thanks!
Man you are my "Go To" for anything I do on my Explorer! Definitely the most knowledgeable Ford Tech I've found online or anywhere for that matter, and your presentations on what you're doing is so straight forward and precise! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and making life easier when it comes to maintaining my Ford! Much appreciated!
Thanks MAkuloco, OI just changed the oil of my 2002 Expedition. OMG I have never changed before, and have the tryck for all these years. Go Ford!! found full amount of dirty oil, now will change my rear one. Girls, foolow this guy. I am a 61 year old lady!!
Great info. Husband just got me a2022 Expedition Timberline. I told them I needed a fresh oil change and all fluids topped off/checked before purchasing. (The dealership had it for 8-9 months and put 2,200 miles on it) Talking with the maintenance manager he said either 100 or 150k for the differential. I called it out “that is after our warranty ends” and the first oil change was done at almost 8,500 miles. I worked on cars with me Dad since I was a kid. Still keeping my 2022 Santa Fe (last car I worked on with him before he passed away unexpectedly). Husband knows I’m going to take care of this vehicle and do services (bring it in while under warranty till 2030) to keep the engine performing well. I swear they (dealerships) recommend schedules to just get you pass warranty lol
That isn’t the dealerships doing that, it’s direct from the MoCo. Check your owners manual or get a shop manual for it. You’ll find that ford has been pushing those recommendations for a while. I have a 2014 Navigator and even during that time, the recommended transmission, transfer case, and differential service intervals are ALL 150,000 miles. I do mine every 25k just so I’m keeping the intervals easier to remember based on mileage.
I was able to remove the front cover by trimming off the corners on the bottom of the housing that stick out on either side below the cover with a hacksaw. Once I got the cover off and cleaned it up, I ground the lip on the top corner on the drivers side about 1/2 way down to make it easier to put back up. It`s better to take it off and get all that crud out of there. It worked for me and thought I would pass it along. I have a 2012 Raptor.
I wish my truck was this clean underneath. MD/PA roads kill in the winter. Another, as usual, phenomenal video! You've saved me so much time and money on working on my F150. Thanks for taking the time.
Power washed underside of my 2011 rust belt f150 then sprayed entire chassis twice with phosphoric acid and allowed it to dry then painted it with black primer and then 2 coats flat black rust paint . After paint was dry I sprayed entire truck with chain bar oil thinned with kerosene doing inside frame crossmembers suspension hood tailgate doors rockers and pillars box front fenders . Prior to oil undercoating I welded in rockers and cab corners refinished painted them and drilled 1/2 inch holes in sills and pillars to get oil into all welded and damaged areas to prevent future rust .
I have used a marine engine oil sucker for years to do this front differential and rear end oil changes. Yes, at one point you do need to pull that rear cover as you perfectly explain in another video. Ty for sharing with all of us. I am a 2007 F150 5.4 3v owner. You have helped always
I had a very difficult time with this. Even though I was using a small diameter tube, there was only a very small window where I could get it in past the gears.
@@jaym7369 I don’t think it would matter. I had my son rotating a tire very slowly back and forth until I found a spot to get past the gears. I don’t think jacking would move the fluid out of the sump.
I just took my truck to the shop to have this done thinking/expecting this was what they were going to do. The mechanic took off the cover not realizing that it wouldn't come out of there. They mechanic and owner were stymied for a while but realizing they didn't have an option getting it out at that point. They were able to twist and turn and pivot it in some way that it actually came out. I told him he should have videoed it to post so they would become TH-cam famous for how to do it. I wish I had seen it. He showed me a photo with the cover off and nothing else had been removed from all the steering assembly.
That’s how I got mine off and back on. You can rotate it enough to get it off without removing the steering rack. I’d recommend a gasket rather than RTV for the reinstallation. RTV got everywhere (still sealed though) and I will end up swapping to a gasket next time I do the job.
I've just completed my 1st attempt to change the fluid in mine. Working on the floor of my garage with the truck on rams and jack stands. I attempt the removal of the fluid with a 1.5 liter manual extractor, it did not go well. In Brian's video it showed him moving the front wheel slightly to facilitate the insertion of a small diameter tube. I was not able to get mine tube in properly and consequently was only able to extract about 700-800 mils. I would recommend the truck be off the ground so front wheels can be moved also the use of an air driven extractor be used as well. There's no gain if there ain't any pain,cheers.
I engage my 4 wheel drive monthly for about 10 miles. To warm up transfer case and front differential and try to boil off any water.seems to help. I also change out these fluids on a reasonable interval.
wow, you are really good. Just bought a 2012 with 160,000 miles and it needed some work. With your videos such as this I have changed the rear diff pinion seal and now the front diff oil. Thanks and subscribed, I think I may need some more advice in the near future.
That's why your vehicles look the way they do. Try driving on winter roads with snow, ice, salt, and sand. See what your vehicle looks like in 5-10 years. I'm jealous when I watch videos of vehicles from States like yours.
The rust is unreal,it looks like the front end sit in a creek, the manifolds had holes on the bottom of the exhaust ports,starter, wires melted from the heat, I got 15 of 16 studs out with welding nuts and building the stud up above the head surface to weld the nut on, replacing the vacuum operated front differential lock with a cable and doing away with the vacuum components, manual shifter,my shop will be completed when I get a lathe, milling machine, aluminum Tig.slight rain this morning, I bought the 1997 F-150 for 600 off a lot,had another sitting beside it and the frame was shot,it came from West Virginia and when I am finished restoring will be like new condition.
Aahh, the many uses for the Vacula. Perfect for bailing out the HPOP resevoir on the 6.0's. Also great for an overfilled trans because you can measure and mark the hose to the dipstick to suck it down to the correct level. My Vacula started to collapse so I put a PVC pipe coupler inside to stop it from sucking in on itself. Good video.
Another great video! Would you consider doing a video on how to clean intake valves for us Ecoboost owners? Would love to see how you'd go about doing it
With your guidance, I took on the Front Differential fluid change. With the pump I bought it was rather easy, although it wasn’t easy getting the suction tube down into the lowest area of the reservoir. Had to keep messing around. The level seemed low also. 2021 F150 58,000 klm. I know I’m early, but I thought it was a good idea considering the recent break in period. Surprisingly it was grey from small filings. The fluid seemed very dirty. Anyway, once again I want to thank you for the great direction!
brotha answer the question, help us out. Per another users question: "did you use a plastic tube at the end of the hose as well or did you just put the hose in?"
I'am always amazed with these DIY auto maintenance video and most in the comments section asking about specific issues with their vehicles. This guy in particular offers some excellent advice, but that is never enough. He has almost 900k subscribers and a 'full time job' on the side, doubt there is time to answer your specific questions.
gotta love the bean counters. cutting corners and making service difficult. is it really that expensive to put drain plugs in shit? maybe if they stopped overloading vehicles with useless creature features and distracting electronics they could save money. lol
cougar10ag It’s our fault, as consumer, we are attracted by the shiny bells and whistles. Most people who buy a truck just want to show off, their truck is always shiny and clean with fancy rims....
I'm wondering if I dare carefully drilling the bottom of the case, tapping with a 1/4" fine thread, and using a short 1/4" fine thread bolt, with sealer applied, to plug the hole? I'll have to think about it ?
Thanks for posting this, this is the last fluid needing service on my 06 scab, just bought a fluid extractor for the trans service so my garage didn't look like a slaughter house from the pan drop. Looks like another wise tool purchase I made, as it can do this too. Had 3 bolts that i had to fight coming out on the trans pan, 12 years with roadsalt and no antiseize on the bolts, even impact wouldn't move them, had to fight them by hand forward and reverse with aerokroil, what a job!! Had to buy a tap to repair threads in trans case.
Great vid. I love how all the companies could just put a drain plug in the bottom of everything but for some “unknown” reason never do. Again great video man. You have helped me maintain my 06 f150 to 290k miles. Thank you so much!!!
Thanks for the video. I’m trying to look up the same vinyl tubing you mentioned but everything I’m seeing looks way too flexible. Any chance you have a link to the less flexible end tubing you used?
Do you think it would be ok to use rhino ramps on the front end while I change the diff oil to have more room underneath? My truck is not lifted and I don't have access to a lift. Can I use the ramps or should i just lift the truck up and apply jack stands on 4 corners?
I plan to drill n tap the bottom of the differential cover and add a drain plug. 3/8-16 tap with a brass plug or a short bolt. Obviously not long enough to interfere with the internal workings of the gears. What do you think about this?
All your video are so informative I love to watch over and over it helps me every time I do something new on my vehicles. And when I do it I know it is done right.
This video came out just in time. I am going through the 50k maintenance, transmission, transfer case, rear diff, front diff, and spark plugs. I have been watching other video on the front diff, and they struggled with cover. I was thinking, it might be better to drop the front axle. Also the transfer case on my 2016 F150 Lariat says, “Use MERCON LV ONLY.”
Great video if you get a chance I have a trouble shooting question because I'm sure you never get any of those. I have a 2010 explorer xlt 4x4 I have replaced both CV joints one CV joint seal to the differential both inner tie rods both tie rod ends when I have the car in Reverse or drive with emergency brake on I still hear noise from the front differential not sure if I've got a diff gear gone bad in the front or if the CV joints are not engage properly on the front any ideas as to what that maybe I know it's a broad-spectrum question just looking for a shot in the dark.
Some info from just doing this on my 2012 f150 eco boost 4x4. Using a mityvac mv6830 at about 100 psi on a 3.5hp 60 gallon single stage compressor I got about 43oz out before I couldn't get anymore. I attached some aquarium air hose to it and it worked great. Took about an hour and half letting the compressor cool down some as the mityvac is an air hog. Roughly a quart of 80w-90 went back in.
Can you please do a video on how to change the oil on the 3.5L Ecoboost without making and mess and without a lift? I specifically have this engine in a 2016 Expedition.
changing the oil in the 3.5EB has got to be the most annoying oil change I've done out of about 12 different vehicles I maintain. I HATE doing an oil change on it, but what I did to make it slightly more tolerable is remove the oil drain plug bolt and replace with a Fumoto oil drain valve. You can then route flexible plastic tubing from the nipple of the Fumoto into a drain pan. It takes 3x longer to drain that way, but you won't have oil splashed on EVERYTHING if you had simply removed the drain bolt. Now.....reaching up feeling and spinning off the oil filter and hoping it drains in the "tray" is the 2nd joke of the oil change procedure. I usually take 3 valiums and wash it down with a shot of whiskey before doing an oil change also.
EXACTLY! The filter is the biggest issue. I've actually researched remote filter kits, but I'm afraid I can't trust the hoses as far as leaking or bursting.
I recently came up with the idea of putting a cardboard box under my drain pan to lift it up higher to the drain plug. It leaves little room between the pan and the plug so there is less room for it to splash out everywhere. It seemed to work great the one time I have used it so far.
I would think if the hand pump works to put the fluid in , it should work to pump out the old fluid if you attach a hose to the end that goes into the quart bottle, and insert the other end into the diff.. Might be slow but how often does a diyer need to do this ?
I was searching for a rattling noise under my truck. With the drivers side tire off the ground i could hear clunking in my front differential when I spun my tire forward and reverse by hand. Is that normal? I’m thinking that’s the source of my rattle since everything else in the suspension, tie rods, bearings ect. seems tight
My 2015 f150 had a lot of water in the rear differential truck only has 17k miles on it ford rebuilt it but it didnt fix my whining noise bringing it back for round 2 thank you for the videos they are very educational
I went after this before this video was released. I was able to take out the two steering rack bolts which gave me JUST enough room to get the cover out. In hind sight i would have rather done it this way. But i was able to completely clean out the differential.
2 quarts , I pulled out about 1.9 quarts. Had to wiggle around my little sucker hose to get it all. At first I thought I only got 1.5qts but there should be close to 2 and you'll put back about the same.
Called for 2 qts.of gear lube in the beginning of the video.I had to go through Napa to get a manual, advance quit selling manuals for some reason, guy that works for advanced Auto turned me on to LMC Truck, they will send you a magazine with everything to fix and restore.Long Motors company,
I have a 2014 FX4. Ican't get anything to go down to the bottom of the diff. There is something right up against the lower half of the fill hole. I drove forward a bit, and also engaged 4H and drove a few feet but whatever is there has not moved at all. I don't want to take that cover off! Any ideas?
Hey Marty, try a smaller hose. I was so annoyed I couldn't get my hose to fit, also I had to go at an almost up angle a bit before it turned and went back down. Get you a smaller hose and you will be able to wiggle it in there. I also tried moving it a few feet to ensure it wasn't a bolt. But the smaller hose did the trick. Probably half inch outer diameter or less
What about a 97 4wd F150? You said the front diff's just sit there when in 2wd, but mine has that vac actuated fork so I would assume it is always connected at the transfer case. I'm an electrician, not a mechanic. I'm just curious if the older trucks were different.
Might be a dumb question but: If the front gears aren't ever spinning unless you're in 4x4, would you still need to change the front fluid? I've owned my 2010 since 2016 (almost 9 years now) and I've never even actuated my 4x4 once and a shop just talked me into having it changed saying it was time. Did I just get hosed?
I changed the fluids in my Explorer. I soaked the bottles of gear oil in hot water in the sink to warm up the oil so it would pump easier. Seemed to help somewhat.
Cant get the hose past the hole so i quit.Alot of fluid came out from the hole so im guessing its filled with water or overfilled from factory either way I bought a warranty for a reason let it blow apart.
I drilled and installed a drain plug on the old 9" rear end and never had any trouble with it leaking (or cracking). Is there enough room in these new ones to do that on the front diff?
I would just put a drain plug, I put one on the PTO on my Ford Flex, I drilled a letter F drill and tapped it 5/16 inch. I flushed the the case with some brake clean, but its aluminum and chips should not really hurt anything
I did this service the other day, and the fluid was very milky just like you showed. I also did the rear diff and the fluid was dark, but there was no sign of moisture. I have read that there may be a design issue with the vent on the front diff that allows moisture to enter, especially of you wash your car with a pressure washer or spray water into the engine compartment. Is there an issue with the vent that should be checked or addressed to make sure this doesn't happen in the future?
Subject is a 2011F250 SD 4x4 6.7 with 170K on the ticker. Front diff never serviced but probably less than 2K in 4x4 mode. I,m thinking a cover removal and full clean out lots more work but me thinks the correct approach. YES??
I think I'll do that on the rear differential as well, just to save the hassle of taking the diff cover off and putting a new gasket around it and risk leaking over time.
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n310ea No gasket on rear cover. At least not on 1997. 2002 F-150’s. Don’t forget friction modifier if your Ford has the limited slip. Rear
Hi Brian. Got a 2015, calls for 75w85 motorcraft synthetic. Should I be fine to use 75w90 Royal Purple synthetic (or similar synthetic)? This front diff has the 4auto clutches, I’m hearing a slight rotational noise as I drive, gets louder as it warms up. Thinking maybe some fresh oil may help. Would friction modifier help the clutches? Any insight would be much appreciated thanks
Could you possibly make an inspection video of the differential parts? My output axle on the driver side has some up and down play, not certain If that’s normal.
I just watched your rear diff fluid change. I was thinking the fluids would be the same (75W-120 used in that one) Just not need in the front bc of less use/wear?
I bought the better vacuum pump you recommended and found some stiffer tubing to get the hose down to the bottom of the front differential. When I ran the pump it pulled some fluid very slowly but eventually stopped pumping. I spent close to an hour trying to get it all and it wouldnt pump. What air pressure do you run the vacuum pump at? I watch all.your videos and did the tranny, rear diff and transfer case without issue.
@@centaurld6442 I had some laying around from another hand pump i have. Should be able to find some at HD or Lowes or on amazon. You want something stiff but with a reasonable ID to pull the fluid through.
I bought this brake bleeder from the link but I am having a heck of time finding 1/8 inch tubing to fit into the tubing that came with the bleeder. Anybody have any leads? I checked with Lowes/Home Depot and a local plumbing store.
@@BrandonWest87 thank you. i actually went and checked out two pet stores and while they did have some narrow tubing there, it was very soft, not like the plastic piece in the video. BUT, what I did end up getting is an empty quart sized spray bottle from walmart for $1.30 and used the tube inside it for the end plastic piece. its pretty sturdy and fits the hose of the pump. i haven't tried it yet on the front diff, but it will most likely work.
Why can't we just loosen the bottom bolts on diff itself? Preserving a gasket I suppose? I know this is probably a stupid question, but having never actually done any diff work, I am curious. Love the channel FTM!!
Hey brian my name is wesley I absolutely love it channel and all ur videos. I accidentally put 5 pumps worth of transfer case fluid in my front differential instead of gear oil 😪😪 . Would you completely drain the front differential and put all new gear oil in or leave it be. Plz help I'm thinking of just draining and refilling with new gear oil. Thanks again
Why do you remove the cover on the rear differential, but not the front? Is it harder to get to? And can you use this method in the rear also so you dont have to re-do the seal, or do you really need to get in there and clean the metal filling out? Thanks
I also found out the hard way not to use a socket and ratchet on one of the top bolts. I got it on and after backing out a couple threads it got jammed against the steering rack. Holy crap what a pain it was to get it out. I actually tried cutting it with a sawzall but it wouldn’t cut thru. I eventually just bashed it out with a 2.5lb hammer and the cheap ratchet mechanism broke allowing for room for it to fall out. So use a long extension to reach the top 2 bolts thru front near oil filter with no problem.
Mike I had the same thing with mine 2001 Ford Expedition 4wd All time. And it says they put the 75 140 gear F. Too on mine had my fronted work on but it’s making some nose when driving slow something clicking like a dog chain leash ? I don’t know?
@@infotechsailor nope, gear oil and mercon lv are not interchangeable. The rear diff requires 75-140 synthetic with friction modifier, the front diff 75-90 regular gear oil. Mercon lv is strictly trans fluid for 2011 and up transmissions.
OK I hope you can definitely answer this question I have a 2009 F150 and I’m having a bad problem with the rear bouncing it seems to me it comes from the left side of the rear of the truck Here are the things that I did myself to figure it out or limited it which did not work Rear traction bars Driveshaft replaced with all new u joints and seals I replace the rear wheels and tires I replace my rear shocks with new one my left shock was completely shot Having new one it’s still doing the same thing I don’t know if It’s the wheel bearings in the rear or differential differential fluid was changed as well what is your opinion ??? So whatever’s going on on my left side destroyed my rear left shock
suppose in the event the front diff cover is leaking, is there a way to loosen the front steering rack enough to move it out of the way? or any other way to repair the leak?
Put some tape over the rear case cover to prove they at least removed it. As for front, maybe put some dry erase marker Marks near the fill plug. Up to you, hard to trust anyone cuz nobody would do as good as you can on your own truck
Hello, I have a 2008 ford explorer v8 and for the sconde time i have replaced the front differential, is there a possibility that the cause of my differential keeps on breaking could be a bad transfer case or front drive shaft???
Is this method worth it if the front/rear diffs aren't leaking? Would rather not take the covers off if it's not leaking and use this method to remove as much fluid as possible, and fill.
Hey boss, I am going around calling Ford and trying to find the right amount of oil for a 2015 Ford edge sport all-wheel-drive rear differential filling up the proper level. What can you give me as far as like help with the amount of oil because I fill it to the actual drain plug and it failed it and I had to replace the whole differential and I just got the new one and I don’t wanna overfill it and mess it up again.
FORDTECHMAKULOCO, LET ME START BY SAYING I AM AN INCREDIBLE FAN OF YOUR CHANNEL, AND HAVE LONG BEEN A SUB! WITH YOUR EASY TO FOLLOW,FACTORY RECOMMENDATIONS, CORRECT TORQUING PROCESSES,AND NEVER ANY " WELL YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO DO.....BUT" I HAVE FOLLOWED YOUR TIMING GUIDE REPLACEMENT VIDEO FOR THE 5.4 3V . I WATCHED THE SERIES SEVERAL TIMES AND THEN STEP BY STEP. AND EXACTLY AS YOU SAID,NO PROBLEMS,NO ISSUES,THE JOB WAS COMPLETED, IT WAS CORRECT,AND NOW THAT TRUCK SOUNDS AND RUNS LIKE THE TRUCK YOU USED IN THE DEMONSTRATION VIDEO! I CAN NOT BEGIN TO EXPRESS MY GRATITUDE AND APPRECIATION, FOR A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC TAKING THE TIME TO SHARE( FREE OF CHARGE) THE PROCESSES REQUIRED TO COMPLETE THESE JOBS SUCCESSFULLY! NEXT TO TIME AND MONEY,INFORMATION IS THE THIRD MOST VALUABLE COMMODITY TO OBTAIN. THE RESULTS OF THE TIMING GUIDE PROJECT WERE SO GOOD THAT IVE DECIDED TO COMPLETE AN ENTIRE MAINTENANCE PROJECT. A LITTLE BIT SHOCKING,THE FLUIDS FOR FRONT & REAR DIFFERENTIALS,THE TRANSFER CASE AS WELL AS TRANSMISSION AND OIL WERE NEARLY $300!! THANKFULLY THIS IS NOT A PROCESS SCHEDULED ON A MONTHLY BASIS! AFTER LOOKING AT NUMEROUS "HOW TO" VIDEOS TO COMPLETE THE MAINT. ,AGAIN IVE FOUND YOUR VIDEO,AND AGAIN FAST,COMPLETE AND CORRECT!! ONE CAN EASILY SEE YOU CONTINUING AS A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC UNTIL YOUR READY TO RETIRE! THANK YOU,THANK YOU,THANK YOU,FOR THE EFFORT AND INFORMATION THAT YOU PROVIDE IN THE VIDEOS ON YOUR CHANNEL!!
I am about to do the front and rear differential on my 17 f150. It calls for 75w85 on both front and rear axles. Am I good to use 80w90 on both or stick with 75w85?
Hello. I have a 2016 Ford explorer sport and it doesn't have a front diff. It does have e a ptu mounted on the side of the trans. My question is how often do these need to be looked at ? My truck was at 40k miles and my ptu split in half. Took it to the dealer to fix it. Now at 53k miles my truck is in the shop getting the trans fixed. Is this a problematic setup ? Its 3.5 ecobeast and all wheel drive with terrain management.
I have a '99 5.0 AWD Explorer, and I don't know the service history. I want to change the differential oil both front and back, the transfer case oil, and the transmission fluid. Is the process for the front the same as shown here?
What if the fluid is contaminated? i just checked mine and it is milky. looks like it would be better to remove the cover. Do you have to remove the steering gear to get the cover off?
My truck feels like it’s jerking forward when I take off from a stop but it drives perfectly fine after that. I pulled the fill plug from my front diff and found it to be extremely milky. Could this cause this jerking feeling? Thanks in advance if you answer me!
Wanted to ask you I was up under my 2016 Lincoln Navigator reserve with axle code 3L on the door sticker it’s supposed to have a limited slip axle but I know for a fact the rear axle is a open I tested it. now when I was up front the 8.8 cover have a sticker with 3L73 do the Lincoln’s have a posi front or why do they say some have the limited slip? Is it the transfer case they are referring to? Thought I’d ask you you are the pro.
I wonder if you got the fluid warmed up before hand and used a clear tube that fits through a hole in center of a tapered soft rubber grommet to fit snug in the fill hole , you couldn't pull the vent cap off of the vent hose and apply regulated low psi air pressure to the differdntial vent hose and just purge out the fluid with low air pressure applied to the vent hose.🤔
I found a small rubber stopper about same diameter as fill hole, drilled out the center and shoved a small diameter clear vinyl hose through (about the same 1/4"ID as bench bleeding. Regulated my air hose pressure down to about 10 psi and applied to the diff vent hose after
So our front diff just uses a standard 80-90 diff lube? Not some expensive special synthetic fluid? Asking because the quick lube I used in a pinch charged me like $70 just to top of the front diff with expensive (OVER CHARGED) special fluid. I have the feeling they took me for a ride on that one.
I have a question for you. I hear a low volume/high pitched whine only at 50-55mph. It cuts out once I get towards 60mph. The only info I have been able to find is possibly the front differential. I drive a 2012 FX4. Does this make sense? Awesome video, been subscribed for a long time. Thanks
I had my front differential fluid changed on my 2013 ford f150 4x4 fx4 and the dealer used a product called "BG full synthetic 75W-140". The service manager assured me that this fluid is ok in lieu of the 80W-90 motorcraft fluid and that this fluid will not void the vehicles extended warranty. Should I be worried? Thanks.
@@FordTechMakuloco thanks for the quick reply. Just curious, is the 75w-140 oil now used for all front differentials for these model years or is the choice of this different fluid mainly dealer preference? Thanks and I enjoy your channel.
In this video we go over the only logical method to maintaining the Front Differential on your Ford Truck.These are the Parts and Tools I Recommend:
80W-90 Axle Fluid (2 Quarts Needed)-
amzn.to/2FQRtJA
Thread Sealant-
amzn.to/2FSNxrL
Basic Brake Bleeder-
amzn.to/2FQ157r
High Suction Brake Bleeder-
amzn.to/2pnDjIC
Fill Pump-
amzn.to/2pipJqK Fill Plug Torque Spec- 18ft lbs
FordTechMakuloco is friction modifier needed? Thank you
No, I mention that in the video.
FordTechMakuloco sorry man, I'll listen to it again when the wife isn't around lol.. Thanks again and many thanks for your very helpful videos 👍
Hi Brian great video. I have a 2012 edge limtied AWD. I put jucas oil in the ptu is that ok or does it need the mercon stuff
the 80w-90 axle fluid be ok for 07 150 4x4?
Just tried this, and while it wasn’t bad, it is much more difficult with the truck on level ground (rather than on jackstands or a lift). There is not much space to get under the truck to access the differential. Next time, I’ll put all four corners up on jackstands. The 20 minutes it will take to jack up the truck will save at least an hour. Also, warming the new gear lube (I set the bottles in a tub of hot water) makes pumping the lube into the differential much easier. Another great video, though. Thanks!
Good tip, filling up my rear diff took forever. I'll try a hot water bath for the front fluid before I put it in.
Man you are my "Go To" for anything I do on my Explorer! Definitely the most knowledgeable Ford Tech I've found online or anywhere for that matter, and your presentations on what you're doing is so straight forward and precise! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and making life easier when it comes to maintaining my Ford! Much appreciated!
I’m an aspiring technician currently being trained at a NATEF school and I love your channel. I want to be a good tech like you are.
It blows my mind they couldn't just add a drain plug
And make your life easier?....no way.
Imagine if there is no drain plug on the engine, have to drop the pan every time to do an oil change.
Most definitely. My blazer had a drain. super easy
@PRIMO SCIENTIFIC most people are too lazy to grease. Or they're stupid and overfill.
@PRIMO SCIENTIFIC He stated in the beginning that the steering box is in the way of removing the cover.
Thanks MAkuloco, OI just changed the oil of my 2002 Expedition. OMG I have never changed before, and have the tryck for all these years.
Go Ford!! found full amount of dirty oil, now will change my rear one. Girls, foolow this guy. I am a 61 year old lady!!
Great info. Husband just got me a2022 Expedition Timberline. I told them I needed a fresh oil change and all fluids topped off/checked before purchasing.
(The dealership had it for 8-9 months and put 2,200 miles on it)
Talking with the maintenance manager he said either 100 or 150k for the differential. I called it out “that is after our warranty ends” and the first oil change was done at almost 8,500 miles.
I worked on cars with me Dad since I was a kid. Still keeping my 2022 Santa Fe (last car I worked on with him before he passed away unexpectedly).
Husband knows I’m going to take care of this vehicle and do services (bring it in while under warranty till 2030) to keep the engine performing well.
I swear they (dealerships) recommend schedules to just get you pass warranty lol
That isn’t the dealerships doing that, it’s direct from the MoCo. Check your owners manual or get a shop manual for it. You’ll find that ford has been pushing those recommendations for a while. I have a 2014 Navigator and even during that time, the recommended transmission, transfer case, and differential service intervals are ALL 150,000 miles. I do mine every 25k just so I’m keeping the intervals easier to remember based on mileage.
I was able to remove the front cover by trimming off the corners on the bottom of the housing that stick out on either side below the cover with a hacksaw. Once I got the cover off and cleaned it up, I ground the lip on the top corner on the drivers side about 1/2 way down to make it easier to put back up. It`s better to take it off and get all that crud out of there. It worked for me and thought I would pass it along. I have a 2012 Raptor.
Do you have any pics of what you did?
just changed did this on my 2018 F150 with 3.5L ecoboost. went flawlessly!! Thank you Brian!
I wish my truck was this clean underneath. MD/PA roads kill in the winter. Another, as usual, phenomenal video! You've saved me so much time and money on working on my F150. Thanks for taking the time.
Power washed underside of my 2011 rust belt f150 then sprayed entire chassis twice with phosphoric acid and allowed it to dry then painted it with black primer and then 2 coats flat black rust paint . After paint was dry I sprayed entire truck with chain bar oil thinned with kerosene doing inside frame crossmembers suspension hood tailgate doors rockers and pillars box front fenders . Prior to oil undercoating I welded in rockers and cab corners refinished painted them and drilled 1/2 inch holes in sills and pillars to get oil into all welded and damaged areas to prevent future rust .
hows she doing today?
I have used a marine engine oil sucker for years to do this front differential and rear end oil changes.
Yes, at one point you do need to pull that rear cover as you perfectly explain in another video.
Ty for sharing with all of us.
I am a 2007 F150 5.4 3v owner.
You have helped always
You're one hell of a mechanic man. Thank you so much for all of your videos.
I think one of the best tips is at the 4:00 mark. If your drain tube gets caught up, just rotate the tire. Should allow for better access.
I had a very difficult time with this. Even though I was using a small diameter tube, there was only a very small window where I could get it in past the gears.
@@av8rgrip agreed. Next time I'll use a much more flexible hose.
@@av8rgrip Do you think there would be any benefit to just jacking up the left side during extraction then let down to level when filling?
@@jaym7369 I don’t think it would matter. I had my son rotating a tire very slowly back and forth until I found a spot to get past the gears. I don’t think jacking would move the fluid out of the sump.
@@av8rgrip I agree with draining it. I think the truck being flat and not jacked up may be more critical when refilling.
I just took my truck to the shop to have this done thinking/expecting this was what they were going to do. The mechanic took off the cover not realizing that it wouldn't come out of there. They mechanic and owner were stymied for a while but realizing they didn't have an option getting it out at that point. They were able to twist and turn and pivot it in some way that it actually came out. I told him he should have videoed it to post so they would become TH-cam famous for how to do it. I wish I had seen it. He showed me a photo with the cover off and nothing else had been removed from all the steering assembly.
That’s how I got mine off and back on. You can rotate it enough to get it off without removing the steering rack. I’d recommend a gasket rather than RTV for the reinstallation. RTV got everywhere (still sealed though) and I will end up swapping to a gasket next time I do the job.
WOW didn't know that was possible! If I ever take this cover off, I'd strongly consider adding a drain plug to it
Another great video from the best, most informative Ford service source.
Good Man.
I've just completed my 1st attempt to change the fluid in mine. Working on the floor of my garage with the truck on rams and jack stands. I attempt the removal of the fluid with a 1.5 liter manual extractor, it did not go well. In Brian's video it showed him moving the front wheel slightly to facilitate the insertion of a small diameter tube. I was not able to get mine tube in properly and consequently was only able to extract about 700-800 mils. I would recommend the truck be off the ground so front wheels can be moved also the use of an air driven extractor be used as well. There's no gain if there ain't any pain,cheers.
I engage my 4 wheel drive monthly for about 10 miles. To warm up transfer case and front differential and try to boil off any water.seems to help.
I also change out these fluids on a reasonable interval.
wow, you are really good. Just bought a 2012 with 160,000 miles and it needed some work. With your videos such as this I have changed the rear diff pinion seal and now the front diff oil. Thanks and subscribed, I think I may need some more advice in the near future.
Living in the desert southwest I am always amazed at all the rust on these undercarriages.
That's why your vehicles look the way they do. Try driving on winter roads with snow, ice, salt, and sand. See what your vehicle looks like in 5-10 years. I'm jealous when I watch videos of vehicles from States like yours.
The rust is unreal,it looks like the front end sit in a creek, the manifolds had holes on the bottom of the exhaust ports,starter, wires melted from the heat, I got 15 of 16 studs out with welding nuts and building the stud up above the head surface to weld the nut on, replacing the vacuum operated front differential lock with a cable and doing away with the vacuum components, manual shifter,my shop will be completed when I get a lathe, milling machine, aluminum Tig.slight rain this morning, I bought the 1997 F-150 for 600 off a lot,had another sitting beside it and the frame was shot,it came from West Virginia and when I am finished restoring will be like new condition.
Aahh, the many uses for the Vacula. Perfect for bailing out the HPOP resevoir on the 6.0's. Also great for an overfilled trans because you can measure and mark the hose to the dipstick to suck it down to the correct level. My Vacula started to collapse so I put a PVC pipe coupler inside to stop it from sucking in on itself.
Good video.
Another great video! Would you consider doing a video on how to clean intake valves for us Ecoboost owners? Would love to see how you'd go about doing it
With your guidance, I took on the Front Differential fluid change.
With the pump I bought it was rather easy, although it wasn’t easy getting the suction tube down into the lowest area of the reservoir. Had to keep messing around.
The level seemed low also.
2021 F150 58,000 klm. I know I’m early, but I thought it was a good idea considering the recent break in period.
Surprisingly it was grey from small filings.
The fluid seemed very dirty.
Anyway, once again I want to thank you for the great direction!
did you use a plastic tube at the end of the hose as well or did you just put the hose in?
brotha answer the question, help us out. Per another users question: "did you use a plastic tube at the end of the hose as well or did you just put the hose in?"
@@mosasa1307Did you watch Brian’s video at all? He does this for a living.
I'am always amazed with these DIY auto maintenance video and most in the comments section asking about specific issues with their vehicles. This guy in particular offers some excellent advice, but that is never enough. He has almost 900k subscribers and a 'full time job' on the side, doubt there is time to answer your specific questions.
gotta love the bean counters. cutting corners and making service difficult. is it really that expensive to put drain plugs in shit? maybe if they stopped overloading vehicles with useless creature features and distracting electronics they could save money. lol
Could put a front cover on with a drain plug in it, if inclined. I have one on my XJ rear diff, makes super easy work of fluid changes.
B. D. $100 is what mine cost
Bravo brother you are so right 👏👏. I agree 100 percent I own two ford f150's
cougar10ag
It’s our fault, as consumer, we are attracted by the shiny bells and whistles. Most people who buy a truck just want to show off, their truck is always shiny and clean with fancy rims....
I'm wondering if I dare carefully drilling the bottom of the case, tapping with a 1/4" fine thread, and using a short 1/4" fine thread bolt, with sealer applied, to plug the hole? I'll have to think about it ?
Thanks for posting this, this is the last fluid needing service on my 06 scab, just bought a fluid extractor for the trans service so my garage didn't look like a slaughter house from the pan drop. Looks like another wise tool purchase I made, as it can do this too. Had 3 bolts that i had to fight coming out on the trans pan, 12 years with roadsalt and no antiseize on the bolts, even impact wouldn't move them, had to fight them by hand forward and reverse with aerokroil, what a job!! Had to buy a tap to repair threads in trans case.
Wow!
FordTechMakuloco almost drove out to see you to fix!
Great vid. I love how all the companies could just put a drain plug in the bottom of everything but for some “unknown” reason never do. Again great video man. You have helped me maintain my 06 f150 to 290k miles. Thank you so much!!!
I've heard because by being a "sealed" system, it reduces cost of ownership based on manufacturer maintenance intervals.
@@Motojourneysit's not sealed... there is a vent on them. More likely because they like you to vi$it the dealer$hip for maintenance.
Thanks for the video. I’m trying to look up the same vinyl tubing you mentioned but everything I’m seeing looks way too flexible. Any chance you have a link to the less flexible end tubing you used?
Try one on 2011 and newer. I used a hand pump to do the PTU on my Explorer. Then extended the breather tube to use as a filler.
what kind of plastic tubing did you use for the extraction hose? whats the outer diameter and where did you get it? thank you
Vinyl tubing. He says it in the video.
FordTechMakuloc, do you have a video that shows how to remove the front diff cover?
Do you think it would be ok to use rhino ramps on the front end while I change the diff oil to have more room underneath? My truck is not lifted and I don't have access to a lift. Can I use the ramps or should i just lift the truck up and apply jack stands on 4 corners?
I plan to drill n tap the bottom of the differential cover and add a drain plug. 3/8-16 tap with a brass plug or a short bolt. Obviously not long enough to interfere with the internal workings of the gears. What do you think about this?
Thanks for the extraordinarily professional presentation!
All your video are so informative I love to watch over and over it helps me every time I do something new on my vehicles. And when I do it I know it is done right.
This video came out just in time. I am going through the 50k maintenance, transmission, transfer case, rear diff, front diff, and spark plugs. I have been watching other video on the front diff, and they struggled with cover. I was thinking, it might be better to drop the front axle.
Also the transfer case on my 2016 F150 Lariat says, “Use MERCON LV ONLY.”
You have a 2 speed torque on demand transfer case that is why.
When are you going to show off your fluid pump cart? I wish, I had that when filling the transmission.
Great video if you get a chance I have a trouble shooting question because I'm sure you never get any of those. I have a 2010 explorer xlt 4x4 I have replaced both CV joints one CV joint seal to the differential both inner tie rods both tie rod ends when I have the car in Reverse or drive with emergency brake on I still hear noise from the front differential not sure if I've got a diff gear gone bad in the front or if the CV joints are not engage properly on the front any ideas as to what that maybe I know it's a broad-spectrum question just looking for a shot in the dark.
Some info from just doing this on my 2012 f150 eco boost 4x4. Using a mityvac mv6830 at about 100 psi on a 3.5hp 60 gallon single stage compressor I got about 43oz out before I couldn't get anymore. I attached some aquarium air hose to it and it worked great. Took about an hour and half letting the compressor cool down some as the mityvac is an air hog. Roughly a quart of 80w-90 went back in.
Can you please do a video on how to change the oil on the 3.5L Ecoboost without making and mess and without a lift? I specifically have this engine in a 2016 Expedition.
changing the oil in the 3.5EB has got to be the most annoying oil change I've done out of about 12 different vehicles I maintain. I HATE doing an oil change on it, but what I did to make it slightly more tolerable is remove the oil drain plug bolt and replace with a Fumoto oil drain valve. You can then route flexible plastic tubing from the nipple of the Fumoto into a drain pan. It takes 3x longer to drain that way, but you won't have oil splashed on EVERYTHING if you had simply removed the drain bolt. Now.....reaching up feeling and spinning off the oil filter and hoping it drains in the "tray" is the 2nd joke of the oil change procedure. I usually take 3 valiums and wash it down with a shot of whiskey before doing an oil change also.
EXACTLY! The filter is the biggest issue. I've actually researched remote filter kits, but I'm afraid I can't trust the hoses as far as leaking or bursting.
I recently came up with the idea of putting a cardboard box under my drain pan to lift it up higher to the drain plug. It leaves little room between the pan and the plug so there is less room for it to splash out everywhere. It seemed to work great the one time I have used it so far.
Great video like always. I've been doing maintenance on my 2003 expedition this week. Your channel has been very helpful !!
Another excellent video Loco! Thank you for all your help. You make owning a f150 cheap.
I'm thinking drill and tap a .5" set screw in the bottom. Is there enough meat on the bottom that pumpkin?
I just drained and changed my 08. I’m nursing my sore neck muscles and it sure was a pain but it’s done for another few years
I would think if the hand pump works to put the fluid in , it should work to pump out the old fluid if you attach a hose to the end that goes into the quart bottle, and insert the other end into the diff.. Might be slow but how often does a diyer need to do this ?
Every 50K
I was searching for a rattling noise under my truck. With the drivers side tire off the ground i could hear clunking in my front differential when I spun my tire forward and reverse by hand. Is that normal? I’m thinking that’s the source of my rattle since everything else in the suspension, tie rods, bearings ect. seems tight
My 2015 f150 had a lot of water in the rear differential truck only has 17k miles on it ford rebuilt it but it didnt fix my whining noise bringing it back for round 2 thank you for the videos they are very educational
I went after this before this video was released. I was able to take out the two steering rack bolts which gave me JUST enough room to get the cover out. In hind sight i would have rather done it this way. But i was able to completely clean out the differential.
CStockner Witch bolts are those. My cover is hanging there now. Having trouble getting it off and gave up for the night?
Maybe I missed it if you already advised, but how much fluid would you expect to extract via this method?
2 quarts , I pulled out about 1.9 quarts. Had to wiggle around my little sucker hose to get it all. At first I thought I only got 1.5qts but there should be close to 2 and you'll put back about the same.
Called for 2 qts.of gear lube in the beginning of the video.I had to go through Napa to get a manual, advance quit selling manuals for some reason, guy that works for advanced Auto turned me on to LMC Truck, they will send you a magazine with everything to fix and restore.Long Motors company,
@@andymonk9505Yeah if you own a 30 plus year old vehicle.Nothing on newer models
Another good video. Thanks for posting. I think you have a future in "Auto TV"
I have a 2014 FX4. Ican't get anything to go down to the bottom of the diff. There is something right up against the lower half of the fill hole. I drove forward a bit, and also engaged 4H and drove a few feet but whatever is there has not moved at all. I don't want to take that cover off! Any ideas?
Hey Marty, try a smaller hose. I was so annoyed I couldn't get my hose to fit, also I had to go at an almost up angle a bit before it turned and went back down. Get you a smaller hose and you will be able to wiggle it in there. I also tried moving it a few feet to ensure it wasn't a bolt. But the smaller hose did the trick. Probably half inch outer diameter or less
@@infotechsailor 3/16" od tubing worked but I could only get 1 quart of fluid out.
Another great video Brian!
Thanks Buddy!
What about a 97 4wd F150? You said the front diff's just sit there when in 2wd, but mine has that vac actuated fork so I would assume it is always connected at the transfer case. I'm an electrician, not a mechanic. I'm just curious if the older trucks were different.
Is yours automatic fwd? I have a 4wd shifter on the floor
Awesome. Thanks again. My old expedition with 250k miles, doubt if its ever been checked.
Might be a dumb question but: If the front gears aren't ever spinning unless you're in 4x4, would you still need to change the front fluid? I've owned my 2010 since 2016 (almost 9 years now) and I've never even actuated my 4x4 once and a shop just talked me into having it changed saying it was time. Did I just get hosed?
I changed the fluids in my Explorer. I soaked the bottles of gear oil in hot water in the sink to warm up the oil so it would pump easier. Seemed to help somewhat.
Cant get the hose past the hole so i quit.Alot of fluid came out from the hole so im guessing its filled with water or overfilled from factory either way I bought a warranty for a reason let it blow apart.
I drilled and installed a drain plug on the old 9" rear end and never had any trouble with it leaking (or cracking). Is there enough room in these new ones to do that on the front diff?
Room yes, would I? Now way
I would just put a drain plug, I put one on the PTO on my Ford Flex, I drilled a letter F drill and tapped it 5/16 inch. I flushed the the case with some brake clean, but its aluminum and chips should not really hurt anything
Bought a 8.8 front dif out of the bone yard. It has a drain plug installed.
My front diff is leaking after 4x4 use and being parked in my garage. How do I change the gasket, and do I need to check the vent?
I did this service the other day, and the fluid was very milky just like you showed. I also did the rear diff and the fluid was dark, but there was no sign of moisture. I have read that there may be a design issue with the vent on the front diff that allows moisture to enter, especially of you wash your car with a pressure washer or spray water into the engine compartment. Is there an issue with the vent that should be checked or addressed to make sure this doesn't happen in the future?
Subject is a 2011F250 SD 4x4 6.7 with 170K on the ticker. Front diff never serviced but probably less than 2K in 4x4 mode. I,m thinking a cover removal and full clean out lots more work but me thinks the correct approach. YES??
I think I'll do that on the rear differential as well, just to save the hassle of taking the diff cover off and putting a new gasket around it and risk leaking over time.
n310ea No gasket on rear cover. At least not on 1997. 2002 F-150’s. Don’t forget friction modifier if your Ford has the limited slip. Rear
How'd this method work on the rear differential? Did you have problems over the last 5 years?
Hi Brian. Got a 2015, calls for 75w85 motorcraft synthetic. Should I be fine to use 75w90 Royal Purple synthetic (or similar synthetic)? This front diff has the 4auto clutches, I’m hearing a slight rotational noise as I drive, gets louder as it warms up. Thinking maybe some fresh oil may help. Would friction modifier help the clutches? Any insight would be much appreciated thanks
Not so sure about the just sitting 90% of the time -- my F-150 is in AWD pretty much all winter. Should I be changing on a shorter interval?
Could you possibly make an inspection video of the differential parts? My output axle on the driver side has some up and down play, not certain If that’s normal.
I just watched your rear diff fluid change. I was thinking the fluids would be the same (75W-120 used in that one) Just not need in the front bc of less use/wear?
I bought the better vacuum pump you recommended and found some stiffer tubing to get the hose down to the bottom of the front differential. When I ran the pump it pulled some fluid very slowly but eventually stopped pumping. I spent close to an hour trying to get it all and it wouldnt pump. What air pressure do you run the vacuum pump at? I watch all.your videos and did the tranny, rear diff and transfer case without issue.
Hi Brad, where did you find the smaller stiffer tube used to help extract the fluid? I'm trying to find one and having no luck. Thank you
@@centaurld6442 I had some laying around from another hand pump i have. Should be able to find some at HD or Lowes or on amazon. You want something stiff but with a reasonable ID to pull the fluid through.
Do you have a video on changing the seal. My front differential is leaking. 2011 lariat limited
I bought this brake bleeder from the link but I am having a heck of time finding 1/8 inch tubing to fit into the tubing that came with the bleeder. Anybody have any leads? I checked with Lowes/Home Depot and a local plumbing store.
Pet stores. Aquarium tubing.
@@BrandonWest87is that where you went?
@@planchik It’s the easiest place to get narrow gauge tubing.
@@BrandonWest87 thank you. i actually went and checked out two pet stores and while they did have some narrow tubing there, it was very soft, not like the plastic piece in the video. BUT, what I did end up getting is an empty quart sized spray bottle from walmart for $1.30 and used the tube inside it for the end plastic piece. its pretty sturdy and fits the hose of the pump. i haven't tried it yet on the front diff, but it will most likely work.
@@planchik Hey that’s freakin smart! Great thinking.
Why can't we just loosen the bottom bolts on diff itself? Preserving a gasket I suppose? I know this is probably a stupid question, but having never actually done any diff work, I am curious. Love the channel FTM!!
They use sealant no gasket.
Hey brian my name is wesley I absolutely love it channel and all ur videos. I accidentally put 5 pumps worth of transfer case fluid in my front differential instead of gear oil 😪😪 . Would you completely drain the front differential and put all new gear oil in or leave it be. Plz help I'm thinking of just draining and refilling with new gear oil. Thanks again
Why do you remove the cover on the rear differential, but not the front? Is it harder to get to? And can you use this method in the rear also so you dont have to re-do the seal, or do you really need to get in there and clean the metal filling out? Thanks
I also found out the hard way not to use a socket and ratchet on one of the top bolts. I got it on and after backing out a couple threads it got jammed against the steering rack. Holy crap what a pain it was to get it out. I actually tried cutting it with a sawzall but it wouldn’t cut thru. I eventually just bashed it out with a 2.5lb hammer and the cheap ratchet mechanism broke allowing for room for it to fall out. So use a long extension to reach the top 2 bolts thru front near oil filter with no problem.
Looks way easier than taking the plate off. Could you use the same pump to extract the fluid that you used to fill?
My dealer just filled the front with the same fluid as the rear, the 70-140 synthetic, is this ok?
It’s fine just not needed at all
Good to hear, Thanks for the video's they make a difference....
Mike
I had the same thing with mine 2001 Ford Expedition 4wd All time. And it says they put the 75 140 gear F. Too on mine had my fronted work on but it’s making some nose when driving slow something clicking like a dog chain leash ? I don’t know?
Great videos! So for an 05 F150 4x4 I would use 80w90 in the front and 75w140 in the rear?
I believe Ford now says mercon LV in all axels now although older models like 05 might be mercon V
@@infotechsailor nope, gear oil and mercon lv are not interchangeable. The rear diff requires 75-140 synthetic with friction modifier, the front diff 75-90 regular gear oil. Mercon lv is strictly trans fluid for 2011 and up transmissions.
OK I hope you can definitely answer this question I have a 2009 F150 and I’m having a bad problem with the rear bouncing it seems to me it comes from the left side of the rear of the truck
Here are the things that I did myself to figure it out or limited it which did not work
Rear traction bars
Driveshaft replaced with all new u joints and seals
I replace the rear wheels and tires
I replace my rear shocks with new one my left shock was completely shot
Having new one it’s still doing the same thing I don’t know if It’s the wheel bearings in the rear or differential differential fluid was changed as well what is your opinion ???
So whatever’s going on on my left side destroyed my rear left shock
suppose in the event the front diff cover is leaking, is there a way to loosen the front steering rack enough to move it out of the way? or any other way to repair the leak?
What does a 2004 expedition use for front and rear
Does the front get dirty enough or used enough to warrant this needing done. How can I trust my dealership to do the front or rear diff properly ???
Put some tape over the rear case cover to prove they at least removed it. As for front, maybe put some dry erase marker Marks near the fill plug. Up to you, hard to trust anyone cuz nobody would do as good as you can on your own truck
Hello, I have a 2008 ford explorer v8 and for the sconde time i have replaced the front differential, is there a possibility that the cause of my differential keeps on breaking could be a bad transfer case or front drive shaft???
Any advise on fuel pressure. I have a f350 460. The way it runs is as it's starving for fuel on he high end
Is this method worth it if the front/rear diffs aren't leaking? Would rather not take the covers off if it's not leaking and use this method to remove as much fluid as possible, and fill.
Hey boss, I am going around calling Ford and trying to find the right amount of oil for a 2015 Ford edge sport all-wheel-drive rear differential filling up the proper level. What can you give me as far as like help with the amount of oil because I fill it to the actual drain plug and it failed it and I had to replace the whole differential and I just got the new one and I don’t wanna overfill it and mess it up again.
FORDTECHMAKULOCO,
LET ME START BY SAYING I AM AN INCREDIBLE FAN OF YOUR CHANNEL, AND HAVE LONG BEEN A SUB!
WITH YOUR EASY TO FOLLOW,FACTORY RECOMMENDATIONS, CORRECT TORQUING PROCESSES,AND NEVER ANY " WELL YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO DO.....BUT"
I HAVE FOLLOWED YOUR TIMING GUIDE REPLACEMENT VIDEO FOR THE 5.4 3V . I WATCHED THE SERIES SEVERAL TIMES AND THEN STEP BY STEP. AND EXACTLY AS YOU SAID,NO PROBLEMS,NO ISSUES,THE JOB WAS COMPLETED, IT WAS CORRECT,AND NOW THAT TRUCK SOUNDS AND RUNS LIKE THE TRUCK YOU USED IN THE DEMONSTRATION VIDEO!
I CAN NOT BEGIN TO EXPRESS MY GRATITUDE AND APPRECIATION, FOR A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC TAKING THE TIME TO SHARE( FREE OF CHARGE) THE PROCESSES REQUIRED TO COMPLETE THESE JOBS SUCCESSFULLY!
NEXT TO TIME AND MONEY,INFORMATION IS THE THIRD MOST VALUABLE COMMODITY TO OBTAIN.
THE RESULTS OF THE TIMING GUIDE PROJECT WERE SO GOOD THAT IVE DECIDED TO COMPLETE AN ENTIRE MAINTENANCE PROJECT. A LITTLE BIT SHOCKING,THE FLUIDS FOR FRONT & REAR DIFFERENTIALS,THE TRANSFER CASE AS WELL AS TRANSMISSION AND OIL WERE NEARLY $300!! THANKFULLY THIS IS NOT A PROCESS SCHEDULED ON A MONTHLY BASIS! AFTER LOOKING AT NUMEROUS "HOW TO" VIDEOS TO COMPLETE THE MAINT. ,AGAIN IVE FOUND YOUR VIDEO,AND AGAIN FAST,COMPLETE AND CORRECT!!
ONE CAN EASILY SEE YOU CONTINUING AS A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC UNTIL YOUR READY TO RETIRE!
THANK YOU,THANK YOU,THANK YOU,FOR THE EFFORT AND INFORMATION THAT YOU PROVIDE IN THE VIDEOS ON YOUR CHANNEL!!
All caps is akin to yelling when typing something out. Nobody is going to read this.
I am about to do the front and rear differential on my 17 f150. It calls for 75w85 on both front and rear axles. Am I good to use 80w90 on both or stick with 75w85?
So the front and rear take the same fluid? Used your advice on flushing my radiator fluid thank you...
No the rear diff on the trucks take 75w-140.
@@FordTechMakuloco 75W85 for 2015 and up, according to rear diff video parts list
Is that flat quarter sized area designed for installation of a drain plug?
Bro , thnx for video!
Help me - what liquid need me for front differential for 99 lincoln navigator? Same like rear differential, 75w-140?
I own a 08 f150 4.6, I had a stick jam between my diff cover and housing, I had to take the cover off, it is possible. But it's a pain in the neck.
Do you need to do this if you have a 2017 PIU AWD PTU? Is this just for 4x4? I don’t see a front differential on my vehicle.
Hello. I have a 2016 Ford explorer sport and it doesn't have a front diff. It does have e a ptu mounted on the side of the trans. My question is how often do these need to be looked at ? My truck was at 40k miles and my ptu split in half. Took it to the dealer to fix it. Now at 53k miles my truck is in the shop getting the trans fixed. Is this a problematic setup ? Its 3.5 ecobeast and all wheel drive with terrain management.
I have a '99 5.0 AWD Explorer, and I don't know the service history. I want to change the differential oil both front and back, the transfer case oil, and the transmission fluid. Is the process for the front the same as shown here?
What if the fluid is contaminated? i just checked mine and it is milky. looks like it would be better to remove the cover. Do you have to remove the steering gear to get the cover off?
@FordTechMakuloco - I read that the Ford suggested Differential Fluid is now thw 75w140? It's so much harder to find...
My truck feels like it’s jerking forward when I take off from a stop but it drives perfectly fine after that. I pulled the fill plug from my front diff and found it to be extremely milky. Could this cause this jerking feeling? Thanks in advance if you answer me!
Wanted to ask you I was up under my 2016 Lincoln Navigator reserve with axle code 3L on the door sticker it’s supposed to have a limited slip axle but I know for a fact the rear axle is a open I tested it. now when I was up front the 8.8 cover have a sticker with 3L73 do the Lincoln’s have a posi front or why do they say some have the limited slip? Is it the transfer case they are referring to? Thought I’d ask you you are the pro.
Is the front gasket seal the same as the back on differential cover. All the gaskets on Amazon say rear?
What gasket?
@@FordTechMakuloco front differential leaking gear oil
2011 lariat limited 6.2
I wonder if you got the fluid warmed up before hand and used a clear tube that fits through a hole in center of a tapered soft rubber grommet to fit snug in the fill hole , you couldn't pull the vent cap off of the vent hose and apply regulated low psi air pressure to the differdntial vent hose and just purge out the fluid with low air pressure applied to the vent hose.🤔
I found a small rubber stopper about same diameter as fill hole, drilled out the center and shoved a small diameter clear vinyl hose through (about the same 1/4"ID as bench bleeding. Regulated my air hose pressure down to about 10 psi and applied to the diff vent hose after
@@1fnjo790so you created a vacuum and sucked it out like that? basically without having to wiggle the hose down into the differential?
So our front diff just uses a standard 80-90 diff lube? Not some expensive special synthetic fluid? Asking because the quick lube I used in a pinch charged me like $70 just to top of the front diff with expensive (OVER CHARGED) special fluid. I have the feeling they took me for a ride on that one.
Yep you got duped. A quart of synthetic 80-90 is 15 bucks and the front diff holds about 2 quarts
I have a question for you. I hear a low volume/high pitched whine only at 50-55mph. It cuts out once I get towards 60mph. The only info I have been able to find is possibly the front differential. I drive a 2012 FX4. Does this make sense? Awesome video, been subscribed for a long time. Thanks
I had my front differential fluid changed on my 2013 ford f150 4x4 fx4 and the dealer used a product called "BG full synthetic 75W-140". The service manager assured me that this fluid is ok in lieu of the 80W-90 motorcraft fluid and that this fluid will not void the vehicles extended warranty. Should I be worried? Thanks.
no
@@FordTechMakuloco thanks for the quick reply. Just curious, is the 75w-140 oil now used for all front differentials for these model years or is the choice of this different fluid mainly dealer preference? Thanks and I enjoy your channel.
Very good video, this is an over looked maintenance item. Not sure if you ever did a 3.5 duratech water pump, its very involved, expensive.
They are the worst! Getting that front cover back down in there without disturbing the sealant is such a pain.