I bought a set of TRQ Sway Bar links that have extra washers (cup). Any idea what that's for? My mechanic said he never saw those before, and decided not to put them on, and now the links are shot after 1 year.
If there are 4 extra, I would use a set to "cup" each of the rubber pieces (basically bracketing each between two washers). That way the washers might help prevent the rubber parts from failing too soon. Not sure if I am explaining this clearly. At least that is what I would do (not claiming its exactly correct).
@@HNXMedia Each link kit comes with 5 "cups". 1 "extra" that is larger. Per the Toyota parts catalog, it's 48817B. It looks like it's supposed to sit on the bottom side of the control arm to cup the bottom-most cushion. So all assembled it would be: 1)Nut 2)Washer/cup #1 3)Rubber dampener 4)Stabilizer bar 5)Rubber dampener 6)Washer/cup #2 7)Bolt/spacer 8)Washer/cup #3 9)Rubber dampener 10)Control arm 11)Extra Washer/cup*** 12)Rubber dampener 13)Washer/cup #4 14)Nut 😅That was a lot. Hope it explains my confusion.
I had to use a pry bar to separate my sway bar from my lower control arm to get clearance for the bolts. Plus I had to go from the top down with mine since the threading was hitting the axle.
These are similar to the 1985 Hi Ace I've just done.If doing both sides,do them at the same time,this frees the ARB so you can get clearance without having to lever.
does the echo only have a front sway bar? I swear it looks like my echo has a longer sway bar link with bushings in the rear too. but I can't find much info on it.
Echo has a rear sway bar as well that runs from one side of the vehicle to the other. I have not replaced mine or really ever messed with it. Looking at about $125 (US) to replace it, but I am not sure about the work involved or if you can just swap out the bushings if necessary. If I ever mess with it, I'll certainly post a video, but not working on it right now. Hope this helps.
Is this after they were mounted? If so, the bolt could be too long (maybe purchased the wrong kit?) or there would have to be something else wrong with the suspension. If you are referring to the bolt touching the axle and making it near impossible to put on, try "coming up from the bottom" instead of trying to insert the bolt from the top. Hope this helps. If you have another question or can clarify the issue further I am glad to try to help.
It really does not matter as long as it is on securely. I had to put mine in the "opposite way" the original came out, because I did not have enough room to work with. Both "sides" of the linkage are the same, so it does not matter.
No. That is far too soon. I would check the rest of the suspension (mainly the shocks). If they are worn out, it might be putting too much pressure on the sway bar linkage. Just an idea.
Me too...wait...I am that guy. However, in this context I am using the word "mechanic" in the absolutely loosest context ever uttered by a human being - I do not want to unintentionally insult REAL mechanics :)
Yes, technically it should, if you can maneuver the other part out of the way. In my case, I came up from the bottom because it would not fit from the top. It has a lock nut on it, so it really does not matter, but yes, technically (if you can make it fit) it should come in from the top.
Firm, but as they say "Don't choke it, let it breathe." You want the bushings to "seat" but not put undo stress on them and make them bulge unnecessarily.
Yep, in the video I mention that I installed it "upside down" on purpose because you cannot get the correct angle bringing the bolt part in from the top (unless you disconnect the linkage - and that's going to take ALL day, way more than 3 minutes). Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Peace and stay safe.
I bought a set of TRQ Sway Bar links that have extra washers (cup). Any idea what that's for? My mechanic said he never saw those before, and decided not to put them on, and now the links are shot after 1 year.
If there are 4 extra, I would use a set to "cup" each of the rubber pieces (basically bracketing each between two washers). That way the washers might help prevent the rubber parts from failing too soon. Not sure if I am explaining this clearly. At least that is what I would do (not claiming its exactly correct).
@@HNXMedia Each link kit comes with 5 "cups". 1 "extra" that is larger. Per the Toyota parts catalog, it's 48817B.
It looks like it's supposed to sit on the bottom side of the control arm to cup the bottom-most cushion.
So all assembled it would be:
1)Nut
2)Washer/cup #1
3)Rubber dampener
4)Stabilizer bar
5)Rubber dampener
6)Washer/cup #2
7)Bolt/spacer
8)Washer/cup #3
9)Rubber dampener
10)Control arm
11)Extra Washer/cup***
12)Rubber dampener
13)Washer/cup #4
14)Nut
😅That was a lot. Hope it explains my confusion.
I had to use a pry bar to separate my sway bar from my lower control arm to get clearance for the bolts. Plus I had to go from the top down with mine since the threading was hitting the axle.
One side for me was hitting the axle so I always just revered it
Exactly what I was looking for, thanks 👍🏼
Glad I could help
I just finished the job 👍🏼
Toyota Yaris have a common drop link issue...I bought these exact drop links hopefully it will sort out the common issue.
These are similar to the 1985 Hi Ace I've just done.If doing both sides,do them at the same time,this frees the ARB so you can get clearance without having to lever.
Great point! Thanks for watching and commenting.
does the echo only have a front sway bar? I swear it looks like my echo has a longer sway bar link with bushings in the rear too. but I can't find much info on it.
Echo has a rear sway bar as well that runs from one side of the vehicle to the other. I have not replaced mine or really ever messed with it. Looking at about $125 (US) to replace it, but I am not sure about the work involved or if you can just swap out the bushings if necessary. If I ever mess with it, I'll certainly post a video, but not working on it right now. Hope this helps.
Just curious does it matter if you put the bolt from the top or bottom? Thanks
It didn't for me. Mine are both on "upside down."
On my scion the bolt was reaching the shaft above it. After watching this I might been mistaken
great easy thank you
Glad it helped! Hopefully it got you back on the road. Peace.
This seems to be a common problem with the Echo. But it is an easy and cheap fix if you can do it yourself.
Absolutely!
My father in law has a 2003 Echo. We replaced those part,but the bold touches the axle in both sides. What could be the problem?
Is this after they were mounted? If so, the bolt could be too long (maybe purchased the wrong kit?) or there would have to be something else wrong with the suspension. If you are referring to the bolt touching the axle and making it near impossible to put on, try "coming up from the bottom" instead of trying to insert the bolt from the top. Hope this helps. If you have another question or can clarify the issue further I am glad to try to help.
SORRY ONE MORE QUESTION DOES THE NT GO AT BOTTOM OR TOP OR DOES IT MATTER
It really does not matter as long as it is on securely. I had to put mine in the "opposite way" the original came out, because I did not have enough room to work with. Both "sides" of the linkage are the same, so it does not matter.
Welldone
Thanks. Hope it helped.
that did the trick thank you
Have the same setup, and just replaced my link couple of months ago. is it normal to have the bushing squashed out within 3 months?
No. That is far too soon. I would check the rest of the suspension (mainly the shocks). If they are worn out, it might be putting too much pressure on the sway bar linkage. Just an idea.
oh yea simple i drive LYFT so i gotta be on my top i have a lift in my garage thanks again
glad i have a mechanic in the family lol
Me too...wait...I am that guy. However, in this context I am using the word "mechanic" in the absolutely loosest context ever uttered by a human being - I do not want to unintentionally insult REAL mechanics :)
@@HNXMedia lol
what is the torque?
I did not put a torque wrench on this, so I am not 100% sure. I just go by "feel."
Hello, shouldn’t the bolt go from top to bottom? meaning the nut down on the bottom?
Yes, technically it should, if you can maneuver the other part out of the way. In my case, I came up from the bottom because it would not fit from the top. It has a lock nut on it, so it really does not matter, but yes, technically (if you can make it fit) it should come in from the top.
Mine has always had nut on top. Probably good reason for that...as people are talking about having clearance problems at bottom.
Bad ass!!
Hope the video was helpful and got you back up and running quickly. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Safe travels!
How tight?…or leave it a tad loose?
Firm, but as they say "Don't choke it, let it breathe." You want the bushings to "seat" but not put undo stress on them and make them bulge unnecessarily.
GRACIAS
De nada
Looks like a good fix!! ;-)
Seems to be holding up. That car is pushing 21 years old. Trying to keep it as long as possible.
how tight should they be ? JUST SNUG WITH LOC TIGHT
Yep, just snug with loc tite and it should be good to go.
I don't know why but that bolt looks upside down to me
Yep, in the video I mention that I installed it "upside down" on purpose because you cannot get the correct angle bringing the bolt part in from the top (unless you disconnect the linkage - and that's going to take ALL day, way more than 3 minutes). Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Peace and stay safe.
@@HNXMedia use a pry bar on the sway bar, and you'll eventually wiggle it in there