Man, the prep and a video recording is key for a much smoother show. Makes everyone’s life so much easier and less stressful on the shoot day and worth every second.
I've never felt more understand than the comment about people sitting on the risers with your tripod. That lady was just straight up LEANING on your tripod! So brutal.
Thanks for sharing your lessons learned and prep. I've been lurking on your channel for awhile, and just wanted to say thanks for sharing. As a guy who picked up his 1st camera ever a year ago, I appreciate learning from you, and I appreciate all the extra work you put in to share these lessons. I KNOW it takes effort. You could easily download your gear and reset, but you take the time to hit record even after work, to teach us noobs.
I noticed that you put all your batteries in 1 bag. I got caught in Spain once someone stole that bag as we were loading into a hire car. Then on I always spread my batteries over different bags
Yeah will happen on SDI too , its not only plugging D tap the wrong way , if its not straight and your positives hits first for a fraction of a second , current will go down SDI / HDMI cable ,to complete the loop, back into the port , and good night Vienna . This will happen on any camera. Best thing to remember " Last On , First Off" for sdi /hdmi cables . Re AF Joy stick on grip ,or buttons on camera , shift the orange underline to the face box you want , and then press to select it. But TBH even that can sometimes doesn't work , fx9 anyway.
I blew my FX9's SDI and sent it in under warranty, and they fixed it. Not sure if I got lucky. ARRI sells a 3G-SDI isolator cable that works "99.9%" of the time in ground loops to prevent shorts. Decent length and retails for $81.
Sony AF. Unless the box is white then it will be focusing on that subject. you can use the joystick to select between subjects, and the orange highlight is just an indicator. When I shoot I typically avoid using the "Wide" focus area option as it sometimes will drift to another subject once the eye/face detection is lost on the original subject. Try using the smaller focus area options, especially if your subject is just standing at a lectern.
Ow! I assume Sony will repair under warrenty... I have had an HDMI burnout on my C70 and that is a real pain as it doesn't have an SDI option. As usual the best Vlog online 🙂
One thing I've recently realised is a lot of devices have their own pinout and custom connectors across various hardware fields, I just said screw it and multimeter probe everything take photos cut the cables almost everything is on standard keyed XT60 connectors even the waterproof ones are not that expensive these days, and there is ones that carry a signal pin which you can use as ground on some things. (They are for RC and DC cable applications) And now I don't own a single power brick that's not had its cable cut and replace of an XT connector, which is handy when you got something with the wrong plug or the wrong voltage, instead of having to cut and break something in a pinch you've got everything cross-compatible.
For me anything that is polarized - D-Tap, USB, HDMI, even XLR - I mark the cables and the devices with silver Sharpie witness marks so it is faster for me to line things up when plugging in.
3M Dual Lock isn't as soft as Velcro's fuzzy side, but it's also not as harsh as Velcro's hook side. It's easier to use since you don't have to worry about which side of the tape to apply.
Use the joystick next to the screen to toggle the yellow bar under the tracking box around. So in your video, if you would have pushed the joystick to the right, the yellow bar would shift over to the main speaker
I always soft side Velcro on the camera and hooks on the accessory. Tentacle Sync ships with hooks built into the body , so soft always on the camera side. Otherwise use dual lock OR get a little metal cage to hard mount them via 1/4 20 or nato. It’s more weight but I really like hard mounting my tentacles now so they never work their early loose. I’ve see a few 3D printed cages for the JB-1 and lambaste makes a metal cage for the tentacle.
There is a p-tap that you can get that has a led light green right polarity red wrong. A hire company used to put them on all ptap to solve that issue I’m more sure if it blocks power if it’s the wrong way around
Ouch! That's tough to hear about the HDMI port getting fried. I wish it were easier to use something more robust like USB-C for everything, but there are so many old accessories (and new ones) that use D/P-tap. Hopefully Sony doesn't make an issue of warranty work.
I also had HDMI damage on an FS7. Cost: 1000 euros. Another question: your bag for the audio stuff is great. I'm looking for exactly that. Is this a special bag or a camera bag?
Maybe on similar 2 camera shoots close range you could try one of those Bluetooth comms.1 sideed ear comms and might be able to just chat quietly between cameras. The ones I’m thinking of are headset I think Hollyland or similar. I see drone cam/ op using them to chat even though they are only a few feet of each other no cables just headset and a boom mic
There's no perfectly safe way to use powering devices. The issues with 2pin LEMO is there's an Arri standard and general standard way of wiring and depending on your cable's manufacturer, they might try to wire the pins reversed. Also SDI ports can get fried as well.
Feels like it was just a bad week for a lot of mates of mine when I comes to cameras. Had a l mate burn out his monitor on a Komodo, 12g sdi issue. And I was on set last week DOPing a music promo where we had our HD Tap catch fire and burn, has to use the viewfinder with no picture for director the rest of the shoot, just not great all round, thankful for insurance
6:33 I've adhered (hehe) to the standard that big thing (camera or anything else big) has soft side, small thing has rough side. But I mostly use regular velcro for acrylic tags, like mattebox filter tags, weather slate tags and user button tags on Arri cameras. For accessory devices I'd use 3M dual-lock.
Great learning video. I'm all 4K ENG because of their durability. I refuse to use those fragile, unwieldy, spaghetti-cabled rigs. For me, that camera rig has too much shit plugged in and mounted to go south. An ENG is a matter of picking it up and shoot. Nothing to assemble.
Man, the prep and a video recording is key for a much smoother show. Makes everyone’s life so much easier and less stressful on the shoot day and worth every second.
I've never felt more understand than the comment about people sitting on the risers with your tripod. That lady was just straight up LEANING on your tripod! So brutal.
Thanks for sharing your lessons learned and prep. I've been lurking on your channel for awhile, and just wanted to say thanks for sharing. As a guy who picked up his 1st camera ever a year ago, I appreciate learning from you, and I appreciate all the extra work you put in to share these lessons. I KNOW it takes effort. You could easily download your gear and reset, but you take the time to hit record even after work, to teach us noobs.
Super informative and inspiring thanks again, David.
-David Perez
Thanks David.
Small world! I spent a few days filming that family and the new house for the brand that donated all the furniture.
I noticed that you put all your batteries in 1 bag. I got caught in Spain once someone stole that bag as we were loading into a hire car. Then on I always spread my batteries over different bags
Yeah will happen on SDI too , its not only plugging D tap the wrong way , if its not straight and your positives hits first for a fraction of a second , current will go down SDI / HDMI cable ,to complete the loop, back into the port , and good night Vienna . This will happen on any camera. Best thing to remember " Last On , First Off" for sdi /hdmi cables . Re AF Joy stick on grip ,or buttons on camera , shift the orange underline to the face box you want , and then press to select it. But TBH even that can sometimes doesn't work , fx9 anyway.
Yessss! I got my Cranky Camerman fix for the week! Thank you for sharing!
I blew my FX9's SDI and sent it in under warranty, and they fixed it. Not sure if I got lucky. ARRI sells a 3G-SDI isolator cable that works "99.9%" of the time in ground loops to prevent shorts. Decent length and retails for $81.
Sony AF. Unless the box is white then it will be focusing on that subject. you can use the joystick to select between subjects, and the orange highlight is just an indicator. When I shoot I typically avoid using the "Wide" focus area option as it sometimes will drift to another subject once the eye/face detection is lost on the original subject. Try using the smaller focus area options, especially if your subject is just standing at a lectern.
Ow! I assume Sony will repair under warrenty... I have had an HDMI burnout on my C70 and that is a real pain as it doesn't have an SDI option. As usual the best Vlog online 🙂
Canon added SDI to the C80 now. Even they realised, it's sort of a must.
I think you would use the nipple/joystick to move the orange bar to the subject you want to prioritize the AF to keep in focus.
One thing I've recently realised is a lot of devices have their own pinout and custom connectors across various hardware fields, I just said screw it and multimeter probe everything take photos cut the cables almost everything is on standard keyed XT60 connectors even the waterproof ones are not that expensive these days, and there is ones that carry a signal pin which you can use as ground on some things. (They are for RC and DC cable applications)
And now I don't own a single power brick that's not had its cable cut and replace of an XT connector, which is handy when you got something with the wrong plug or the wrong voltage, instead of having to cut and break something in a pinch you've got everything cross-compatible.
P-Tap/D-Tap: I have pieces of yellow tape on both plugs and receivers, so when the line up correctly they match. Hope this makes sense? C
For me anything that is polarized - D-Tap, USB, HDMI, even XLR - I mark the cables and the devices with silver Sharpie witness marks so it is faster for me to line things up when plugging in.
3M Dual Lock isn't as soft as Velcro's fuzzy side, but it's also not as harsh as Velcro's hook side. It's easier to use since you don't have to worry about which side of the tape to apply.
Thanks
Dang. My town!! I would have liked to say hi as a viewer and fan of the channel. Very cool and a great cause!!
Hi!! I thinking go to for arri amira ... Is a good camera yet?? Or is fx9 the best option
That’s a solid sound kit. Can’t go wrong with Lectro digital hybrids and sankens. I’m a fan of sound devices preamps as well. Is that a K-tek pole?
Use the joystick next to the screen to toggle the yellow bar under the tracking box around. So in your video, if you would have pushed the joystick to the right, the yellow bar would shift over to the main speaker
I always soft side Velcro on the camera and hooks on the accessory. Tentacle Sync ships with hooks built into the body , so soft always on the camera side. Otherwise use dual lock OR get a little metal cage to hard mount them via 1/4 20 or nato. It’s more weight but I really like hard mounting my tentacles now so they never work their early loose.
I’ve see a few 3D printed cages for the JB-1 and lambaste makes a metal cage for the tentacle.
There is a p-tap that you can get that has a led light green right polarity red wrong. A hire company used to put them on all ptap to solve that issue I’m more sure if it blocks power if it’s the wrong way around
Amazing work OOOH Rah
Ouch! That's tough to hear about the HDMI port getting fried. I wish it were easier to use something more robust like USB-C for everything, but there are so many old accessories (and new ones) that use D/P-tap. Hopefully Sony doesn't make an issue of warranty work.
I always put the soft side on Cams
I also had HDMI damage on an FS7. Cost: 1000 euros. Another question: your bag for the audio stuff is great. I'm looking for exactly that. Is this a special bag or a camera bag?
I can't say for absolute certainty, but it looked to me like a Milwaukee 'doctor' tool bag.
@@andrewjones-productions It's a Hyper Tough - just googled it 🙂
I think I purchased at a Walmart while on the Road.
Hope Sony covers the hdmi under warranty considering how new the Burano is 😀
Yep camera gets soft side!
Maybe on similar 2 camera shoots close range you could try one of those Bluetooth comms.1 sideed ear comms and might be able to just chat quietly between cameras. The ones I’m thinking of are headset I think Hollyland or similar. I see drone cam/ op using them to chat even though they are only a few feet of each other no cables just headset and a boom mic
This is one of the reasons why I use 2 pin lemo for all my power. Too many problems with DTAP. And always SDI.
There's no perfectly safe way to use powering devices. The issues with 2pin LEMO is there's an Arri standard and general standard way of wiring and depending on your cable's manufacturer, they might try to wire the pins reversed. Also SDI ports can get fried as well.
@11:30 get that man a harness! It's painful looking at that without one.
Feels like it was just a bad week for a lot of mates of mine when I comes to cameras. Had a l mate burn out his monitor on a Komodo, 12g sdi issue. And I was on set last week DOPing a music promo where we had our HD Tap catch fire and burn, has to use the viewfinder with no picture for director the rest of the shoot, just not great all round, thankful for insurance
fresh batteries is key.
6:33 I've adhered (hehe) to the standard that big thing (camera or anything else big) has soft side, small thing has rough side. But I mostly use regular velcro for acrylic tags, like mattebox filter tags, weather slate tags and user button tags on Arri cameras. For accessory devices I'd use 3M dual-lock.
no coms for crew
Managed to plug a D-Tap in around the wrong way too, :-(
Great learning video. I'm all 4K ENG because of their durability. I refuse to use those fragile, unwieldy, spaghetti-cabled rigs. For me, that camera rig has too much shit plugged in and mounted to go south. An ENG is a matter of picking it up and shoot. Nothing to assemble.