Scaling a MSLA Resin Workflow (Level up your resin game!!) 3DPD 3D Printer Farm Biz
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 พ.ค. 2024
- Here's my workflow for MSLA printing using an actual paid job as a case study!
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FINISHING TOOLS:
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SHIPPING AND ORDER PROCESSING
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FARM MANAGEMENT
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AIR QUALITY MANAGEMENT
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NOZZLES AND TOOLS
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PRUSA MINI MODS
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#3DPD #3DPrintedDebris #3DPrinterFarmBiz - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Wow great vid. If anyone gives you a hard time over this vid then ignore them.
Will do! Thanks!!
Love it! Congrats man,, I'm working on getting my Proxima to print perfect more often lol..
Thank you!
Real info, thanks!
You bet!
Thank you for such a great rundown of your workflow! I’m interested in hearing more about the priming sheet - it sounds like a great idea, but why/how do you print it beforehand rather than just digitally placing it under your models in your slicer? Also, do you not do a final cure or remove the supports before shipping the products out? Again, thanks for making this awesome video and your whole series on being a polymer farmer is so useful!
I print it beforehand to tell if the level is off before committing to the job. For this customer, he prefers them to be shipped "green" as he removes the support himself to reduce costs. If I were shipping finished and cured prints to him it would double the cost (labor).
It's thin enough the machine will still zero on the next print with the prime sheet in place from the pre-print.
@@3DPrintedDebris That’s such a smart system to use. Thank you for sharing!
@@3DPrintedDebris what is the thickness of the priming sheet? Great idea!
without gloves...genius....
Yeah.....
I recently purchased an Anycubic Photon S. My first print, a tolerance print that was on the stick, left floaters in the resin. My second print, a lattice cube, didn't print completely, due, I think, to floaters obstructing the light, and also dents in the plastic film bottom of the vat.
From this experience, I came to the conclusion that I needed to strain the resin between every two prints, but you're skipping that step, or doing something else. So I need to ask.
How do you prevent floaters?
Honestly, I never get them. I think the priming sheet may be sweeping them up. I NEVER strain unless there is a hard failure, and I normally nail 99.5% of my attempts first try. I'm not printing torture tests, either. The models are sculpted to be compatible with MSLA.
Okay, so... Assuming you[OP] are reading these comments from email, in order. All questions pretty much answered..
-cost of materials
-equipment maintenance
-risk of failure and cost associated.
BUT. How much time do you spend tuning an FDM printer? Are the SLA units capable of being tuned to reduce failure rate, material usage, and Ex maintenance? You mentioned screen time, I scarcely know how it works - I guess the LCD is a consumable then? Hmm.
The older MARS was good to 100 hours, the SATURN is in the thousands. The issue for me is multiple vats/color handling, and also the HAZMAT disposal (legally) of the rinse. For single color runs for a single customer at business pricing it works for me. D2C not so much.
I'm brand new to resin Printing and I still don't even have a machine yet but I've been researching and I'm wondering if you have any concerns about the overall strength of a printed item. I've heard that resin printed sculptures and whatnot snap pretty easily or break when dropped.
Depends on the resin used. There's ABS-like, tough, etc.
I understand running what is reliable, just curious if water washables aren't worth a try to cut down on IPA consumption. I have one brand that works well and use some modifiers to reduce the brittleness, but I save hundreds in not using as much IPA (still use for final clean-up of course), though denatured alcohol is a ton cheaper when you get them in bulk. My wash station is a large rubbermaid tote and a filtered submersible fountain pump with a sprayer head where I can do large batches in sequence.
When you get into 'professional consumption' of resin, you start to wonder if making a partnership with the manufacturer wouldn't be of some benefit!
I think the water washable resin is worth experimenting with for sure! I'll put it on my "ToDo" list to start fiddling with it.
@@3DPrintedDebris I can guarantee you it will be worth your while. Price difference in Resin is negligible. Use water to clean off most of the resin, then do a bath of water/IPA mix for a final clean. Will probably result in less air pollution/stink in the shop, less health risks for skin contact and breathing in, easier to clean, less wasted IPA.
Honestly I think you're running a great shop. Your prices are really affordable which is a respectable thing and a boon for the people you do business with. None of that "as an entrepeneur I have to charge 100$ an hour" bullshit. Really just an honest job.
@@Janovich If you're still using IPA what's the point?
@@3DPrintedDebris Obviously mixing IPA with lots of water saves on costs, stinks less and is less toxic. So you still get all the benefits of IPA with less of the downsides.
Great Job, i love your videos. In your opinion, if i don't care about the time, elegoo mars can still be a good printer for a farm? Or i have to buy some mono 2k or something like this (Newest) . Also, the v6 heatbreak from trianglelab (with ptfe tube inner) for the prusa mini you suggest in another video, can be good? Thank you very much
My only regret on the MARS is committing too early on the scaling. After I had 12 machines running, the Mono screens started coming out. By that time, I'd already purchased a couple years' worth of spare LCD screens. They're slow, but they get the job done.
I saw the triangle labs heatbreak and passed on it. PTFE linings are subpar, IMO. Repeated heating and cooling shrinks the tube down, and this is a common and recurring problem on my Enders.
@@3DPrintedDebris thank you for reply. Yes i thought the same but all metal heatbreak Is good for printing a lot of pla?
@@alexpepe6586 It's the only one I'll use. PLA/PETG/PVB/Flex/Nylons..... the E3D V6 really is the perfect design.
@@3DPrintedDebris thank you very much! Keep It up!
If you had to plan for a resin farm now, what machine would you recommend to start with?
Saturn (original) for sure.
How do you handle used IPA? Do you let it cure and recycle or not worth the time & just dispose it?
I use Kosher salt to pull the water out, then distill out the IPA. The goo that remains goes out into the sun until solid and inert.
Just curious is there any reason why you dont use flexible build plates?
I have one for the Phrozen Transform, and I'll probably get one for the Saturn. For the little guys, I don't see the value.
Could you please explain the priming sheet and how you achieve this 😮. I have never heard of this before 😮
Just print a .2mm sheet, then print over it after it finishes.
How do you dispose of all the IPA? Can you filter and reuse it?
I use kosher salt to pull the water out, and then a distiller rig to pull the pure IPA out. I usually reclaim 40-50% pure IPA, which I dilute back down after I'm done. The resulting jelly goes out into the sun to cure.
just wondering what the ultrasonic is for on the table.
I switched to simple green and water baths during COVID. IPA was really hard to come by when the pandemic first started, and water-washable resins hadn't come out yet. Now I just use it to clean my wife's jewelry.
do you and if yes how do you recycle your ipa? and why 70%?
I use kosher salt to separate the water, and a science lab mantle and distiller to boil out the 100% IPA. It's not terribly efficient, and probably a waste of time now that IPA is available again. During COVID, the distiller was a life saver!!
What do you with all of that dirty IPA?
I have been using Kosher salt to pull the water out, then distilling it to reclaim the 100% pure IPA. The jelly that remains is left out in the sun until it fully cures and is rendered inert.
@@3DPrintedDebris Distilling how? I'd love to see a small video on this subject, because Im about to spill out a few liters of dirty IPA
@@yehudanewman1024 Good idea!
@@3DPrintedDebris YES PLEASE! I've literally just been storing mine because I face so many problems trying to responsibly handle the inevitable waste.
What's priming sheet?
It's a .2mm sheet I print to help with adhesion and manage batches of small parts.
Wow, $20/hour? That's barely above minimum wage. Serious radio guy, eh? So were you good at "fields"? Most of my EE friends either loved or totally hated fields.
Slicing and GCODE prep isn't what I consider to be specialized labor by any means.
@@3DPrintedDebris true, but it is time away from being CEO and chief engineer. Its also critical work, bad slicing makes for big piles of goo. Kinda of like the guy who stacks the shelves in a grocery store. Pre-Covid, we didn't know how important that job was.
@@PatFarrellKTM I've found written instructions, and these youtube videos have been cutting down the learning curve big time. I'll probably put together a "Slicing the 3DPD way" and dumb it down to where an entry level farm tech can follow along. I used to write a LOT of tech procedures (test plans, test cards, work instructions) in my career.
@@3DPrintedDebris That makes sense. It would be a good intern position for someone who wants to start, then learn some slicing, later some Fusion 360 and then on to make big bucks.