Tip of the day. When I work on fiber glass or carbon fiber. I put 3 or 5 pairs of gloves on at the same time. Then when I get one messed up I just pull off the top layer.
Hitting the supports with a heat gun or dipping them in hot water before removal makes it way cleaner (less artifacts left behind on print) and way easier to remove them. Love this series. So fun to watch someone find out how helpful 3D prints can be IRL applications. 👍
@@willshubaru lightinging infill was designed to be used for sculptures. I would love to help with settings choices if you're interested. I have over 15 years of additive experience and I teach it at a college level.
@@colegoldstein6432 lightning infill in our case was used for short print times; we didn’t need a dense print that would take several days. To meet our timeframe, molds were to be made like in this video or by injecting lightweight expanding foam into the prints for rigidity if Tim chose to make molds off the car.
@@willshubaru Totally get that! I love what you are all doing. I think some tweaking to the slice and you can get some better results that would print fast but make the post process easier.
You guys are by far one of my favorites in the TH-cam world, always chill vibes and getting shit done. Always get pumped when a new video goes up. Been watching for years
If you want to make the process of gluing the parts for the plug together you could integrate holes on the flanges to the design. You can then add screws or pins while gluing and you will get a more accurate result. That takes out the time it needs to align the pieces and adds precision
I have seen you do the same thing on the mould itself. I'm not sure if you're doing this already but if you drill the mounting holes before you release the mould from the plug you will also have a very exact fit once you put it back together for making the part.
That 45° view at the rear looks awesome! The shape of the bodylines and the look of the whole kit are just perfect. Major respect for realizing something that complex in such a short amount of time. Can't wait to see the car. See ya all at SEMA. 👋😉👍
@@nickmaxx That's what I was thinking as well. Lot of wasted material and time to do those prints. Even on my Bamboo printer it would have taken forever with those print settings.
You mean the infill? I didn’t do the CAD; STL files were given to us as large volumes so when sliced, they needed the lightning infill to support the top layers. Wouldn’t be able to bridge that far.
@@willshubaru I think they were just commenting on the amount of supports used in the 3D prints that were done. Not the infill. It looked to me like it might have done just a perimeter wall and then some sort of interior infilled support. Sometimes with larger prints you can dial back the amount of support material you are using to help make the end clean up easier and make the print go faster. But it takes time to learn the printers and material you are using to real dial that stuff in and you have to be willing to have prints fail. I think you guys made the right choice with the situation your in. Better to over support and spend a bit more time on clean up than waste a bunch of time having failed prints. Especially when your under the gun for SEMA. Great job and keep it up!
@@willshubaru right, it seems like the files were the whole print volume instead of that outer shell you needed to create the molds. Usually the modelled shape should be the exact usable shape, and supports are autogenerated, and designed to be (relatively) easily removable.
I appreciate all the work and time you have put into this channel. Filming composites with a small team like this isn't easy, and everything about this is quality. The build, the method, the "behind the scenes", and the edit. THANK YOU.
Guys, you’re making the 3D part assembly harder than it has to be… I’m at the tail end of printing a 3D printed car (plug) myself. Superglue from your local woodworking store and accelerator will be your friend. I flange all my sections then clamp all parts together with binder clips, THEN drop thin superglue in the gaps. It wicks into gaps and I hit it with a quick blast of accelerator. Less than a minute later and the parts are really sturdy and ready to work. Wish I could upload a picture, my car is ready to mud. I’m loving the series and you guys are educating me for my next steps.
Q: So what moulds did you use for the quarter panels? A: Oh, just another 240z I'm loving seeing all this progress and rapid fire content, but I do want to see you guys with this project buttoned up and taking some WELL DESERVED rest
Love this videos. The work you guys do is incredible. Side note - support material should not be that difficult to remove. Some tuning is needed, i can help if you want
Dang it, you guys are awesome!! Might be an idea to get a model of the car you are using to do the molds and substractthat to .. well.. less grinding pla ^^ but then you would need to know the placement relative to the body, so don‘t know if that is feasible for you.
@StreetBanditos: what is the long-term plan for The Legacy? I would be honored to be considered one of its future caretakers if you guys ever decide to find a new home for it. Y'all have been such an inspiration all these years and were honestly the motivating driver for me to be come a Z enthusiast. I would die happy for this to be like my first enthusiast car.
You should try using a saw blade type disc on the grinder. I think it will work better. Less melting and also it would be easier to grind off all the stuff from the 3d printer.
Angle grinder disk nuts should only be hand tightened using the disk as leverage. The hex on the nut is only to loosen it if you can’t undo it by hand because the disk has worn down too small. Source: I’m a boiler maker/fabricator of 20years
There are filaments that don't warp in higher temperatures. I've been thinking about making a car body myself and these are the filaments I've been playing to use
I was planning on doing this to my 914, 3D printing the body after I 3D scan it into a STL, the body is a uni-body so will have to chop up the file and glue it all with panel bond. How did you get the file to print it in thin sheets? I was going to use Solid Works mold setting to convert the file. Oh, I have a Crality Belt Printer that us able to print unlimited length part, what fiber are you printing with?
About 3d prints, How thick do you print the panels? I printed mine 1.2mm but get warpage. Did you run in to this aswell? Thinking I need to do some webbing on the inside to prevent. Or just make negative molds to get the surfaces exactly like in the computer.
I'm not sure I understand why the parts are being printed in cubes and then everything but the face cut away and disposed of? i'm assuming there is already a poly of the original bodywork in the CAD package, why not boolean subtract it from the cube so you get just the net shape and use like 10 percent infill to stiffen the part?
I love the content, but as someone who 3D prints a lot it's painful to watch you guys try and match up these 3D printed sections without any registration points. This is 3D printing witch means you can create joints that fit together perfectly, no need to struggle to line sections together. Also, why not invert the 3D model and print the body parts in the orientation that you'll be laying the carbon fiber in? Hiring a 3D modeler to engineer these parts would save a ton in materials and time. Keep up the good work!
Filming is a small portion of the work week. It was the end of the day and the last thing on the to-do list was epoxying the quarter. Figured it was better for Tim to cut into his wife’s car so I was waiting lol
The problem I think my fenders all damaged can find on internet new printing fender how to do the mould first then change to carbon fibre the metal panels plus anyone have idea which printing 3d good to buy not give you trouble and how much the machine thanks for help in advance
BANDITOS ASSEMBLEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!
That's my line! Lol, let's go!!!!!!
@@NeverLetOff I knew you'd say that 🤣
Its always a good friday when the boys assembled up. Lets Go!!!!!!!
Lmao dammmmmmm he done took your punchline
@@StreetBandito First come, First served 🤣
Tip of the day. When I work on fiber glass or carbon fiber. I put 3 or 5 pairs of gloves on at the same time. Then when I get one messed up I just pull off the top layer.
Hitting the supports with a heat gun or dipping them in hot water before removal makes it way cleaner (less artifacts left behind on print) and way easier to remove them. Love this series. So fun to watch someone find out how helpful 3D prints can be IRL applications. 👍
That was all lightning infill, but I’ll definitely keep both those techniques in mind for supports
@@willshubaru lightinging infill was designed to be used for sculptures. I would love to help with settings choices if you're interested. I have over 15 years of additive experience and I teach it at a college level.
@@colegoldstein6432 lightning infill in our case was used for short print times; we didn’t need a dense print that would take several days. To meet our timeframe, molds were to be made like in this video or by injecting lightweight expanding foam into the prints for rigidity if Tim chose to make molds off the car.
@@willshubaru Totally get that! I love what you are all doing. I think some tweaking to the slice and you can get some better results that would print fast but make the post process easier.
pro tip 20$ box fans and some MERV14+ filters around the shop can really cut down on the dust
I love that saying "we make plenty of mistakes, thats how we learned"....kids need to hear that. Love the build guys....keep at it!
Back with another heaterrrr
Little something, something lol
I love watching you build shit it’s always very custom !!!
Thank you for the videos!!
There is a real bromance between Will and X. Love this build.
You guys are by far one of my favorites in the TH-cam world, always chill vibes and getting shit done. Always get pumped when a new video goes up. Been watching for years
What an absolute pleasure watching a master like Tim at work. Simply mesmerising to see the effortless skill and mastery 🔥🥊 Awesome work!! 👌🏼
100% agree
13:31, oh lawd look at all that sanding.
If you want to make the process of gluing the parts for the plug together you could integrate holes on the flanges to the design. You can then add screws or pins while gluing and you will get a more accurate result. That takes out the time it needs to align the pieces and adds precision
I have seen you do the same thing on the mould itself. I'm not sure if you're doing this already but if you drill the mounting holes before you release the mould from the plug you will also have a very exact fit once you put it back together for making the part.
SQUAD UPPPPP!!! LETS GO!!!!!!!
Yeaaaaa buddddyyyy
I genuinely get so stoked every time y’all post and the music selection is 👌
That 45° view at the rear looks awesome! The shape of the bodylines and the look of the whole kit are just perfect. Major respect for realizing something that complex in such a short amount of time. Can't wait to see the car. See ya all at SEMA. 👋😉👍
The 3D printing room looks like a scene out of the movie Saw with all the plywood hahaha love it!
Keep it coming with the quality work gents!
Omg im loving these upload scheds
That suer calm carbon layup music and pure asmr was like a session at a spa!!!!!
Damn, whoever made the file went overboard with the supports.
Project is coming along great. Really impressive to see how it is turning out.
Those prints are pretty wild, haha it even looks like some parts were sliced completely solid
@@nickmaxx That's what I was thinking as well. Lot of wasted material and time to do those prints. Even on my Bamboo printer it would have taken forever with those print settings.
You mean the infill? I didn’t do the CAD; STL files were given to us as large volumes so when sliced, they needed the lightning infill to support the top layers. Wouldn’t be able to bridge that far.
@@willshubaru I think they were just commenting on the amount of supports used in the 3D prints that were done. Not the infill. It looked to me like it might have done just a perimeter wall and then some sort of interior infilled support. Sometimes with larger prints you can dial back the amount of support material you are using to help make the end clean up easier and make the print go faster. But it takes time to learn the printers and material you are using to real dial that stuff in and you have to be willing to have prints fail. I think you guys made the right choice with the situation your in. Better to over support and spend a bit more time on clean up than waste a bunch of time having failed prints. Especially when your under the gun for SEMA. Great job and keep it up!
@@willshubaru right, it seems like the files were the whole print volume instead of that outer shell you needed to create the molds. Usually the modelled shape should be the exact usable shape, and supports are autogenerated, and designed to be (relatively) easily removable.
woke up late but we still here for the show, might have to buy a 3D printer😳
I love your video style and how chill and real you are, keep it up 💯
this z car is something else. so freaking sick guys
I appreciate all the work and time you have put into this channel. Filming composites with a small team like this isn't easy, and everything about this is quality. The build, the method, the "behind the scenes", and the edit. THANK YOU.
It’s amazing how your carbon skillset just keeps growing - tons of research and work
Love this series, working with the Timelapse jam playin in the background was *chefs kiss. Keep it up bandito’s
Loved every minute guys, excited to see the rest of this coming together 👍
ayee appreciate it 🤙🏽
Guys, you’re making the 3D part assembly harder than it has to be… I’m at the tail end of printing a 3D printed car (plug) myself. Superglue from your local woodworking store and accelerator will be your friend. I flange all my sections then clamp all parts together with binder clips, THEN drop thin superglue in the gaps. It wicks into gaps and I hit it with a quick blast of accelerator. Less than a minute later and the parts are really sturdy and ready to work. Wish I could upload a picture, my car is ready to mud. I’m loving the series and you guys are educating me for my next steps.
Oooh I want to see! Upload a walk around of it to your channel
I sent you an email
Interstellar-esque audio run during layup was 👍
the music makes it feel really scifi, top work xavier
AYYYEEE ITS WILL WITH THE KNEES!!!!!
Q: So what moulds did you use for the quarter panels?
A: Oh, just another 240z
I'm loving seeing all this progress and rapid fire content, but I do want to see you guys with this project buttoned up and taking some WELL DESERVED rest
Highly recommend using 3D Gloop instead of poxy for puzzling together the buck pieces.
Damn son it looks like you skinned an alien when you ripped the supports out :D
Builds looking sick guys, awesome work!
Can't beat the Bandito vibesss!
Love this videos. The work you guys do is incredible.
Side note - support material should not be that difficult to remove. Some tuning is needed, i can help if you want
Loving the content boys! 👌
Call this the hellraiser construction method
Dang it, you guys are awesome!!
Might be an idea to get a model of the car you are using to do the molds and substractthat to .. well.. less grinding pla ^^ but then you would need to know the placement relative to the body, so don‘t know if that is feasible for you.
Can you guys do a video of the 3D modeling for the parts?
Cant wait too see the doors 💪🏽 great work
Man Xavier your choice of music is always so Buttery 🍮
You can 3d print an interface to make you part pull apart, so you don't have to cut them. Print some clamps and some mixing nozzles.
Desde México sigo su canal , tengo un 240z y un 280z , ojalá pudieran lanzar a venta ese widebody. 😍
you have the best music on your channel
Couldnt you bolt the pieces together for a perfect fit? Holes could be printed even. Cant go without the adhesive but seems much easier.
@StreetBanditos: what is the long-term plan for The Legacy? I would be honored to be considered one of its future caretakers if you guys ever decide to find a new home for it.
Y'all have been such an inspiration all these years and were honestly the motivating driver for me to be come a Z enthusiast. I would die happy for this to be like my first enthusiast car.
I know the exterior will be beastly, but really hanging out for interior in this thing
papito ditos get me inspired to work on my z every time they unload
How do I sneek into SEMA to see this car? I dont work for an automotive shop anymore. T_T
You should try using a saw blade type disc on the grinder. I think it will work better. Less melting and also it would be easier to grind off all the stuff from the 3d printer.
Мужики молодцы, могут делать вещи! 💪🏽
Angle grinder disk nuts should only be hand tightened using the disk as leverage. The hex on the nut is only to loosen it if you can’t undo it by hand because the disk has worn down too small.
Source: I’m a boiler maker/fabricator of 20years
Lol
And they are self tightening
There are filaments that don't warp in higher temperatures. I've been thinking about making a car body myself and these are the filaments I've been playing to use
Well done work guy's 👏
Which software is more easier for modeling 🤔?
Going to look cool wearing two eye patches using that angle grinder without a shield or safety glasses and a shield.
So, y’all got enough body panels molded to eventually do a full tube frame car?
What material are you printing with? ABS?
I was planning on doing this to my 914, 3D printing the body after I 3D scan it into a STL, the body is a uni-body so will have to chop up the file and glue it all with panel bond. How did you get the file to print it in thin sheets? I was going to use Solid Works mold setting to convert the file. Oh, I have a Crality Belt Printer that us able to print unlimited length part, what fiber are you printing with?
watch the video of positioning your print for no supports
or vary little also change you support angle and support wall thickness
How long did it take to print everything?
Was this quarter post cured in the oven? Or just at room term?
I love the music
yea position is everything i seena few peices you didnt really need supports for...maybe try an abs...very easy to sand
Sorry to ask but I love the track starting at 24:34, anyone know what it is?
What 3D printers are you using?! Shat material as well?
I was wondering why tdid you not use aluminum with small nuts and bolts hold the pieces togethor.
What sound track was that for the final timelapse?
Why were there no locating tabs between each panel?
what is this red coat that transfers to the mould?
About 3d prints, How thick do you print the panels? I printed mine 1.2mm but get warpage. Did you run in to this aswell? Thinking I need to do some webbing on the inside to prevent. Or just make negative molds to get the surfaces exactly like in the computer.
DAMN it all coming together
Where are you going to be at SEMA?
CSF booth
Who did you watch to make the widebody also what software
So awesome
What composition (glue) do you plan to connect the carbon and metal parts of the door? Thanks!
When I was in my teens , you could still get quite high just from smelling most glue and paint products . And mouthwash was cheap alcohol 😂
I'm not sure I understand why the parts are being printed in cubes and then everything but the face cut away and disposed of? i'm assuming there is already a poly of the original bodywork in the CAD package, why not boolean subtract it from the cube so you get just the net shape and use like 10 percent infill to stiffen the part?
Sick job dudes!
What is that first layer you sprayed before to apply the gelcoat?
And..what spray gun did you use to apply the gelcoat?
Thanks
PVA, its the release agent so your part will be able to separate.
Gun is from fiberglast
I love the content, but as someone who 3D prints a lot it's painful to watch you guys try and match up these 3D printed sections without any registration points. This is 3D printing witch means you can create joints that fit together perfectly, no need to struggle to line sections together. Also, why not invert the 3D model and print the body parts in the orientation that you'll be laying the carbon fiber in? Hiring a 3D modeler to engineer these parts would save a ton in materials and time. Keep up the good work!
I am totally stealing that filler trick for molds!
Did you cry even a little when you realized the fact that you had to remake the panel? @ 27:45
your next body you could put through cfd with kyle engineers or someone else and use this 3d printing technique
Usually you're supposed to wear respiratory protection when cutting through carbon fiber.
Will will ever give Xavier knees?
😭😂😂
@@willshubaru oh shit waddup it dat boy
Loving this build series! 👍
Friendly note: Your montage and time laps music makes me want to fast forward. Very depressing!
I'd use a jigsaw instead of the grinder... cuts with less heat.
Or a saw blade on the grinder
You need to go help Cleetus figure out a body for Leroy and some carbon on Mullett.
wait you guys arent cutting carbon without respirators? right?
Squatting to use the floor as a work surface like repair shops in Delhi
Let’s go!! #streetsquadbanito
🎉🎉🎉
was that a low key shout out or nah?
Body work God.
augh, where was stabilized 20 years ago!
maybe use tree supports from cura
Do you pay that new kid? You are a nice boss. I am very confused by the work dynamic there.
Filming is a small portion of the work week. It was the end of the day and the last thing on the to-do list was epoxying the quarter. Figured it was better for Tim to cut into his wife’s car so I was waiting lol
The problem I think my fenders all damaged can find on internet new printing fender how to do the mould first then change to carbon fibre the metal panels plus anyone have idea which printing 3d good to buy not give you trouble and how much the machine thanks for help in advance
how many support material soldiers had to die just so you could have some fenders?? :)
I suggest picking up an Arbortech Turbo Plane to make faster work of cutting the supports out of the bigass 3D print jobs.