I took an AR-15 armorer class and the instructor stated we had to disassemble the bolt in order to use the go/no go gauges. So that’s what I have done ever since, but now I am definitely going to try it without disassembling the bolt. Thank you for making this video!
The preservation of the accuracy of the gauge is the reason for doing this primarily. Manufacturers are sending out thousands of rifles and barrels with tight headspace as we speak because their gauges are worn out and they haven't bothered to have them checked or replaced. The argument that using a gauge has no effect on its dimensions is bogus.
I never could understand why people thought there would be any difference between a bolt closing on a cartridge case with the ejector in vs the headspace gauge.
If you are using a "field" guage there is no reason to do so. Proper use of a "no-go" guage involves such a subtle difference in feel between a perfect chamber and a slightly tight one that the extractor and ejector make this slight drag difficult if not impossible to feel. Improper use of a "no-go" guage is a waste of time and effort. Do it correctly or stick to the "go" and "field" guages.
Ok, so the extractor can sit proud and cause undo wear on a very precision machined gauge. It's about preserving an expensive tool that relies on it's precision.
@@T7_H3rbz THIS^. Arguing that a gauge is somehow un-affected by repeated use is bogus. Manufacturers are sending out thousands of rifles and barrels RIGHT NOW that have tight headspace because their gauges are out of spec and they haven't bothered to have them checked or replaced.
Because the headspace gauge is made of a hardened tool steel, and the rim of a brass case is soft brass. So the brass won’t mess up your extractor and it doesn’t matter if your extractor messes up the brass. But if your extractor is hardened it can scrape and wear your expensive headspace gauge or vice versa. HOWEVER… I don’t remove my extractors either. I just do it gently and haven’t had any issues. If you’re slamming it in there like you’re chambering a round, then I would expect damage. Run the cycle by hand slowly and it should be fine.
The one reason I tend to strip the bolt specifically on AR type rifles to check headspace is that I'm checking the headspace of the bolt/barrel combo BEFORE I install the barrel into the upper. That's when that ejector spring becomes an issue because I don't have a cam pin and spring to give me mechanical advantage in that particular situation. My thinking is, I want to know if the parts I bought are going to agree with each other before I go to the work of torqueing the barrel nut down so that I can get a problem sorted out easier if one exists.
I agree with the Grey Ghost. For an AR, I always check headspace *before* installing the barrel, and without any mechanical leverage I believe that the ejector could give you a false reading. Especially 308 ARs with twin ejectors and robust springs.
@@hairydogstail as I was taught by introducing resistance to closing the stripped bolt by hand. However, I certainly will try it both with and without the ejector when I need to check headspace on an AR build again. I had a “match chamber” on a 308 AR barrel a couple years ago where the bolt would not close on the Go gauge. I returned the barrel with the bolt to the barrel vendor. They reamed an additional thousandth+ out of the chamber, and the bolt just barely closed on the Go gauge. I am not sure that I would have the same feel for the bolt closing on the headspace gauge if the ejector were still in place. Normally the chamber just isn’t that tight.
@@chipsterb4946 If an AR 5.56 chamber will not close on a go gauge, I will then check the ejector to make sure it is functioning properly..I found an out of spec bolt that was not drilled far enough in the ejector hole this way.. The ejector would not travel all the way to the bolt face and did give a false head space reading.. This is why I check head space with the ejector installed.. If the ejector is good, then I know it is the head space..Just a procedure I have done for many years..I use incremental head space gauges to find the exact head space per barrel and bolt being used..Most 5.56 minimum head space measures above the minimum spec of 1.4646 ..Short chambers are much more common than excessive.. I also use a custom function gauge to check the chamber and throat.. Tight chambers and improper machined throats are also very common..
I'll give my take on the subject, when I was getting my associates degree for gunsmithing (thanks GI bill), we were instructed to disassemble our bolts for checking headspace. I believe this was not so much a "you must" disassemble your bolt to check headspace but more of a teaching method to prepare students for chambering a barrel later on in the curriculum. As I'm sure you know, you have much more feel when the bolt is disassembled thus aiding in making a judgment call during chambering. You can certainly close a Go gauge on a tight but within spec chamber, it is also going to feel different than a chamber on the looser side of the SAAMI spec. In the end its about feel and the school wanted students to know what to look/feel for on a completed rifle. In closing, do you need to disassemble a bolt to check a pre chambered barrel, no, but it would be wise to do so if you are cutting the chamber yourself.
When I re-barreled an M1 Garand, the book for the M1 Garand I used to help me with it (first time doing it so I wanted to make sure I did it correctly), said to remove, so I did. But it’s the only time I’ve ever done it and I only did it because the book said to do so.
Thank you for this video! Before I checked the checked the headspace on a rifle my SIL inherited from his Dad I watched a lot of TH-cam and they all said to remove the ejector pin first. That didn't remove the ejector pin because I didn't believe it was necessary. I suspected this rifle might have excessive headspace because when I tried to load some 130 gr bullets the bullets were almost out of the brass before it reached the rifling. The bolt closed on Go gauge easily but not the No Go gauge. I was able to put 2 layers of scotch tape (.002" each) on the No Go gauge and still close the bolt. This rifle had .011" of headspace! My SIL had paid a local "gunsmith'" to Cerakote it and he sprayed EVERYTHING including the inside of the action and the barrel. When they installed the barrel they stretched the threads on the barrel and the action. I gave it back to my SIL and told him not to shoot it anymore. I removed the ejector pin and got the same results.
Thank you gentlemen. I did not understand the angle ground into Clymer headspace gauges at what would be the case head. Now I know it’s a ramp to facilitate getting the gauge under the extractor. For a bolt action this seems perfect. For an AR I will stick with taking the bolt apart because I’m testing headspace *before* installing the barrel in the upper and have no mechanical leverage at that point. Also, I already paid for the bolt disassembly jig and roll pins cost next to nothing so why not?
I agree with you guys. In the process of doing something to repair an issue on a very expensive, very accurate AR-15 barrel that I read couldn't be fixed, but did fix it, I had need of using head space gauges. Oddly enough, in the copious amount of information I went through, the multiple gun gurus never mentioned disassembling the bolt, so I did not. I did however, use light force and caution as I was unfamiliar with the process I was attempting. No problems, no issues forthcoming. The barrel still shoots 1/2 MOA.
I appreciate this video and I've wondered the same thing. I can tell you this... if you pull the extractor from a Ruger American bolt to check headspace you will not be happy when it's time to reinstall the extractor. I've heard that the Remington 700 bolt is difficult too. I recently checked headspace on my 7mm Rem Mag (Sendero) and I did not strip the bolt.
I leave the ejector in the bolt when head spacing the AR15 chamber..I have found defective ejectors/ejector drill holes in the bolt this way.. Some claim it is hard on the gauge itself, but I have not seen any evidence of this in my experience..I do remove the extractor, as it is an easy task and makes the process easier while checking the extractor spring..
When I was an Armorer in the USMC we did quarterly checks on all the firearms we had. We never once disassembled the bolts to do headspace checks. I was trained to do it that way and was told it was totally unnecessary. Another thing was that the last unit I was attached to had over 400 M16A2's which would take a lot of time to disassemble to just do a headspace check.
Not necessarily if you are using "field" guages to check for worn chambers. If you are using "go" and "no-go" guages to set up a PRS rifle you need to feel the slight drag on the guage that not stripping the bolt will disguise.
I have replaced barrels on 2 of my rifles, and the manufacturer instructions were to remove the extractor, but not the ejector, during the installation.
I was wondering why the bolt needed to be stripped. The gun operates with the bolt assembled, so why not gage it with the bolt assembled? I really enjoy these videos.
The only thing that I could think of is that people are comparing the soft brass case to the hardened steel gauge and thinking there might be issues with that.
I had a Savage 110 that needed a new barrel. When the replacement barrel arrived, it came with both a "go" and "no-go" gauge, along with the required wrench and a set of instructions, in which was specifically stated to leave the bolt fully assembled when checking the headspace. So far, no issues of any sort.
On my new Sauer 100 it was very difficult to close the bolt on a live round. The Sauer techs thought the issue might have been caused by its strong dual ejectors, but I doubted it. Since I did not have any 6.5 CM gauges, I paid another gunsmith $20 to strip the bolt and use his gauges. He determined it was right on the margin but closer than he'd like for a GO gauge. I returned it to Sauer and they confirmed it was beyond their acceptable specs and could not be repaired, so they sent me a replacement rifle. It arrived last week. This is why why I always strip bolts before using my gauges.
I don’t feel like stripping down the whole BCG most of the time lol checking headspace with a complete BCG is just fine. No way you’re gonna get a false reading. It’s gonna go into battery or it won’t. Great video as always
The process is easier if the extractor is removed with an AR15..You can check the extractor spring by using the insert at the same time..Very easy to remove the extractor from an AR15 bolt..
I was taught back in the ‘70s that you had to strip your bolt. I asked why, and never got a legitimate answer. For multiple years I would check without and then pass it off to the know-it-all who said you had to, and we always came up with the same determination. I’ve never stripped a bolt just to check headspace.
Soooo!!!!! I have an AR style and being new to the practice of headspace guaging, Dr Google says "strip the bolt" and I did so. Passed with flying colors, and I reassembled the bolt. The extractor pin passed with flying colors as well. Right past my shoulder and into another dimension because it isn't on the shop floor. Fortunately I have a bolt rebuild kit and can make amends, but that pin is not worth reinstalling unless there is a need. Now I find out that it may remain in place. Thanks for a clear explaination.
One exception to this rule is Lee Enfields. The reason for this is the way they eject cases, the extractor pushes the case toward the left side of the chamber and when the case mouth clears the chamber friction from the rim on the receiver is what tips the case out to eject it. If you don't remove the extractor the gauge will press toward the left side of the chamber and often the chamfered edge will scratch the chamber and the rim will scratch the receiver upon ejection. One solution is to remove the material on the gauge that the extractor would clip over.
I've always heard about only taking the firing pin out for checking headspace on brass with setting the shoulder back and feeling in your chamber for a snug fit and not having the resistance of the firing pin somehow. Not the easiest to do with a mauser bolt though so ive just been FL sizing and using chamber type headspace guages for now
For 98 model Mausers and variants (NOT model 96 Swedes): if you DO choose to remove the extractor from the bolt, then you must ALSO remove the extractor collar. That is not fun. Why, though? Because if you leave the extractor collar on and then insert the bolt, the now-exposed little collar lugs will get trapped in the lug recess reserved for the bolt's third "safety lug". At that point you cannot push the bolt forward nor retract it. You will need some very long thin needle-nose like pliers to fish it out. Guess how I know this. Even then, with both the extractor off and collar off, and you've checked headspace, it is an excrutiating process to get the collar back on without permanently distorting it.
Glad you all tackeld this topic!!! I suspect, as with alot of other processes, that it was put forth so as to be usable to the least competent person who would attempt it. Meanin, if you always remove the extractor, then you can't possibly break one trying to force the bolt closed on an already chambered gage. 😅 And I wonder how many damaged extractors some guy had to fix before he gave up on nuance. 😂
It’s nice when installing a new barrel to accurately get a reading where the bolt handle stops on a no-go guage, and to try and get the chamber as close to “go” spec as you can yet feel zero resistance when closing the bolt. But just checking a rifle and making sure it will not swallow a field guage I wouldn’t bother stripping a bolt.
I have stripped the bolt, because I wanted to know all I can know, when building my AR's. Plus with my Real Avid bench block its very easy. But, I have tried it on a regular bolt, with no issues either. It really all boils down to: Its my gun(s) and my problem, if I did it wrong! BUT, I don't want to blow my face off, being stupid or lazy either! I check every build!
I have limited experience with barrel swaps, I've done maybe 10 in my life, I figured you'd want to head space it the way you shoot it and that's with the bolt intact. Although a few people assured me I would die if I did it this way. I'm here typing and not dead and my rifles shoot well. I compete in F-Class open and TR. I've done shouldered and nut styles, gotta say the pre fit shoulder is the way to go.
If you are using a "field" guage there is no reason to strip the bolt. Using a "no-go" guage properly, it's very easy to force the guage into a slightly tight chamber. It takes an experienced'smith to feel the slight drag of a "no-go" guage in a tight chamber and leaving the extractor and ejector on hides the slight drag one is aiming for. For a combat weapon or even a hunting rifle this is unnecessary but no one would make the effort to put together a PRS without removing the extractor and ejector. Most people can use a "field" guage correctly but using a "no-go" guage incorrectly is a waste of time. My own long-time gunsmith uses the method described in "Hatcher's Notebooks" and achieves quite good results.
The bolt must not close on the no-go gauge, so that means I must try to close it. The only way to try close the bolt on an AR is to bang on the forward assist. I guess that's the issue I've got - banging on the forward assist doesn't have the leverage of closing a bolt handle, so I just don't get an accurate feel when I'm pushing against the ejector and the gauge.
If the chamber has excessive headspace, but otherwise everything is clean and in good condition, why wouldn't a bolt close on a NO GO gauge using just the spring pressure from the recoil spring--especially if the bolt closes on the GO gauge without excessive resistance? If you really want to be extra sure the NO GO gauge won't chamber, you can always stand your upper vertically with the NO GO gauge and BCG installed, then with both hands holding the upper, push the back of the BCG against a tabletop or other hard surface. That lets you apply pressure with both hands. You could even tap it against the surface for extra force, though that starts to sound like a recipe for damaged locking lugs or a jammed bolt.
You are suppose to remove the upper from the lower when checking head space..Insert the gauge in the chamber and slowly push the carrier from the rear..You are suppose to use (ONLY) 8 1/2 to 3 3/4 pounds of force to close the bolt..I do remove the extractor for ease and to save the extractor..The most complete and best way is to remove both the ejector and extractor, to get the best possible results and avoid a false reading like a malfunctioning ejector..
The novice tends to go by the book, and the book is usually wrong. It is like torquing the barrel on a bolt action, without understanding the first 100 rounds fired will finalize the torque on that barrel. Changing barrels is easy, unless you have dreams of Remington. There is a reason we use Savage 110 actions! So how do you touch up the chamber on your barrels? Do you turn the barrel or the reamer?
Great video, Need one on AR10 bolts head spaces and barrels. Info everywhere on don't mix armalite and dpms patterns but no info on how to tell. Barrels say ar10 style. Also 7.62/.308 headspace. Can get a. 308 no-go guage to close on a .308 barrel every time manufacturers say oh we use 7.62 headspace gauges.
As far as I know, the two AR10/308/whatever use the same barrels. The difference lie in the rear end of the upper receiver and how it is machined, different dimensions.
I've got a question for you guys....if I have a headspace check fail with the no-go gauge then I still move on to the field gauge. If it works with the field gauge then it's still good to shoot. Is there really any utility for a non-armorer like me who builds for hobby purposes to even use/buy a no-go gauge?
Do you shoot rifles that fail the no-go, but pass the field? If you don't, then how would you know it would pass the no-go if you don't have it? And one thing to keep in mind that no all headspaces share the same spec. It can pass one and fail the other on different "go/no go" gauges.
@@GldenRetriever I have been buying the no-go gauges. I wasn't buying the field gauges unless it failed with the no-go. I've never had a 5.56 fail out of maybe 7 or 8 I've built. While building a 50 Beowulf upper it failed with PTG headspace gauges in both directions with every combination of barrel/bolt. I can't do anything about a go gauge failure but a field gauge was purchased to see if I could make it work. Then that got me thinking...if I'm shooting it with a looser requirement (field gauge) then what is the purpose of even buying the no-go gauge? Saves me $40-$70 per cartridge type.
@@JenkinsStevenDThe .223 NoGo 1.4666" is for bolt only non-semiauto rifles. The 5.56 NoGo's 1.4696" existence is fuzzy to me. And, we all know what the field guage is for. Maybe the 5.56 NoGo was used as a field guage at one time, but then they decided it could go further and still be safe, thus the Field guage.
@@JenkinsStevenD The no go can be dependent on the manufacturer..If a no go gauge fails then the brass will have a shorter life if you reload and it can effect accuracy..It does not mean the chamber is unsafe..That is what a field gauge will find..I have found more short chambers determined by the go gauge in the AR platform than either the no or field gauge..
The rims on headspace gauges can be ginormous. As a surplus Mauser user, I find it's better to manually put the headspace gauge in the bolt face than to let the rifle chamber the gauge; also because the gauge is shorter than the cartridge, the gauge can fail to feed.
Does this mean Brownell's lifetime warranty will cover any gauges I bought and get damaged by using this method even if I did not use them by the instructions from the manufacturer? Since a lot of current coatings and treatments are harder than what the gauge is required to be would getting a burr on the gauge from the extra spring tension and or rotational forces be covered under your warranty?
Only thing i can think of is if its hook in the bolt where does that extra space go for the no-go sideif its 2 or 3 thousands longer than the go gauge , i have heared of people using tape on the go gauge to simulate a no-go gauge
You can't go wrong if you disassemble the bolt , as far as headspacing goes that is , of course other blunders can happen but that's just life . It means more time absolutely , but it is the method that is most widely applicable . So I guess that's where people get the word never , by taking a rule of thumb and adding it to the commandments.
The reason I do it is to eliminate additional stress on the gage from the ejector springs. I believe it shortens the life of the gage. It is a precision instrument for all practical purposes.
What headspace measurement should an AR chambered in 5.56 be for maximum reliability if shooting both .223 & 5.56 ammunition? I've heard semiautos need at least .004", which is greater distance than the .223 Go 1.4636" & .223 NoGo 1.4666". So, would you really want your new 5.56 AR to close on a .223 NoGo guage?
The TDP minimum head space (go gauge) chamber is 1.4646..The 223 chamber is 1.4636..When a chamber gets hot the chamber will shrink lengthwise..No Go gauge does not mean the chamber is a fail..That is what the field gauge is for..5.56 and 223 have different go, no go and field gauge lengths..
I try and avoid acting SOTARDED when working on firearms. thanks for the 411. some folks get wrapped way to tightly around milking every penny from their "followers"
To be honest I’m 60 years old and have been shooting most of them and I don’t know what headspace is. I recently started reloading so I guess I’ll have to figure it out.
You want the ejectors out so that you can range the headspace ( between 0.XX and 0.XX . Even tho its .002 or whatever, you want it to be within a min and a max headspace not technically at one exact distance. Sure with the ejector in the low end is fully covered, but you wont get an exact measurement on the high end. Example, with a 50 cal machine gun, you want it between 0.204 and 0.206, sure .0205 is ideal. But thats not the point you want it to fit with .204 and you want it to not fit with 206, BOTH simultaneously. And it sounds almost redundant but with the ejector you cannot say that the “no go” does not work. Hope that helps!
Headspace is a proper measurement of “distance” not an exact point is all I’m trying to say. The ejectors dont bother one end of the distance but they do sliiightly interfere with the lower end of the distance.
Midway founder has a video on their channel where he says you absolutely have to strip the bolt. Personally I am on the side of brownells. It is strange however seeing the 2 biggest firearm distributors at opposite ends of the spectrum. This can only be settled in a ufc octagon.
I stopped reading forum fairies and their infinite fantastical wisdom. It's like they're their own thinktank. They'll come up with something new (if it hasn't been done yet) like "you should lube your rounds before putting them in the magazine to keep from binding."
If "ain't nobody got time for that" then why don't those new headspace gauges have the entire rear rim removed so that neither the extractor or ejector(s) are affected when checking an assembled bolt? Brother, on certain topics, especially concerning life saving equipment, I think people get "triggered" because - as a person in an education role, teaching things in a way that could damage and deform a measuring tool could have consequences that the user would not be able to easily verify. Headspace gauges exist because we cannot see this measurement with our eyes and using a soft brass cartridge that conforms to a chamber doesn't prove anything either. So, just as we cannot easily visually verify the headspace of a chamber+bolt combination, we also can't verify the integrity of a headspace gauge with our eyes. Aside from major drops or gouges, deformation to a headspace gauge can't be seen with the human eye. It would need to be recertified by the manufacturer or measured in some other way (maybe a headspace micrometer) in order to be verified as "calibrated"; that's if it checks out to be the size it says it is. If the gauge becomes out of spec over time from using it in this aggressive manner, how often if ever do you think folks using these gauges will check them or have them checked? And if they are getting false readings, would they know? The point of being careful with your measurement tools, is to maintain their accuracy. Because if you aren't getting accurate measurements, there is no point; might as well just "run it bro" like the internet says. And if the argument is that headspace gauges don't deform, then why is it that almost all the budget manufacturer barrels I've checked have tight as hell headspace? Some of that is because they may be choosing to set it tight for some stupid made up reason (using sammi spec instead of Colt spec/Nato Spec); but it may be because they are using worn out headspace gauges and haven't bothered to have them checked after checking thousands and thousands of barrels. I've got a friend, sent a barrel back to a major high end manufacturer for not closing on any of his go gauges. They sent it back two different occasions saying its fine. Why would it close on their gauges but not on his 3 different types of go gauges (Forester, PTG, and PTG Extension Gauge)... because their freakin gauges are out of spec and they haven't bothered to have them checked is my bet. I've heard folks mention that manufacturers of gel capsules for medications have to change their aluminum dyes and tooling after a week or two - because even something as soft as a gel capsule creates friction that eventually wears the tooling out. So don't tell me that you can indefinitely use a headspace gauge with no effect to its dimension, especially if you're talking about a shop environment.
Headspace gages are precision tools. Technically dropping one ruins it, closing a bolt by forcing one to headspace while using ejectors/extractors can technically damage the gage, the extractor. Jam and cram crew setting headspace at brownells hahahhaha
I had the same thought process until I built my 308 AR. I used parts from reputable manufacturers, bcg and barrel from same company as a package. Did not go cheap either. Actually called them to ask if they head space checked them when purchased together. I was "assured" they were in spec and no they don't head space check them. I only used two manufacturers, one makes parts for the other, so I thought I was minimizing compatibility issues especially with this platform. Built the rifle, had cycling issues from the start. Started changing things one at a time, gas flow, buffer weight, different ammo. Contacted the main manufacturer, they sent out replacement parts at no cost trying to help me with the issue. Why I didn't look at the brass prior, I don't know, my fault. Found fine shavings coming off the brass, and gouging on them as well. Ordered a set of go/no-go gauges. The bolt would not rotate with the go gauge. I even stripped the bolt and took the barrel out to make sure nothing was interfering. Had to send the bcg and barrel back for " their" investigation. They replaced the whole bolt as it was not in spec! So long story short, I won't build another AR platform without checking it. You can get bad parts from reputable manufacturers and it seems like it's getting more frequent.
It doesn't matter. I've built 5 AR's and they all work fine, shoot accurate and have been doing so for years. Never used any gauge of any kind to check anything. Just don't buy bottom of the barrel or Chinese parts.
Always check head space with any new build including the AR15..Different bolts can give different head space so always check head space when changing a bolt or barrel.. The minimum for the 5.56 or 223 Wylde is 1.4646..There is a reason Colt's TDP specifies a longer minimum head space than a commercial 223 chamber..Tight chambers can cause accuracy, malfunction and pressure issues, especially when the chamber gets hot.. Short chambered AR15 barrels are more common than many would believe..
Then why do you exclusively sell a set of Forster gauges with a reduced rim and notch cut for the ejector? The condescending undertone never fails from you two.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
I took an AR-15 armorer class and the instructor stated we had to disassemble the bolt in order to use the go/no go gauges. So that’s what I have done ever since, but now I am definitely going to try it without disassembling the bolt. Thank you for making this video!
Proper use of "go" and "no-go" guages require a stripped bolt. The "field" guage works just fine without stripping the bolt.
The preservation of the accuracy of the gauge is the reason for doing this primarily. Manufacturers are sending out thousands of rifles and barrels with tight headspace as we speak because their gauges are worn out and they haven't bothered to have them checked or replaced. The argument that using a gauge has no effect on its dimensions is bogus.
I never could understand why people thought there would be any difference between a bolt closing on a cartridge case with the ejector in vs the headspace gauge.
Its that simple.😊
If you are using a "field" guage there is no reason to do so. Proper use of a "no-go" guage involves such a subtle difference in feel between a perfect chamber and a slightly tight one that the extractor and ejector make this slight drag difficult if not impossible to feel. Improper use of a "no-go" guage is a waste of time and effort. Do it correctly or stick to the "go" and "field" guages.
Ok, so the extractor can sit proud and cause undo wear on a very precision machined gauge. It's about preserving an expensive tool that relies on it's precision.
@@T7_H3rbz THIS^. Arguing that a gauge is somehow un-affected by repeated use is bogus. Manufacturers are sending out thousands of rifles and barrels RIGHT NOW that have tight headspace because their gauges are out of spec and they haven't bothered to have them checked or replaced.
Because the headspace gauge is made of a hardened tool steel, and the rim of a brass case is soft brass. So the brass won’t mess up your extractor and it doesn’t matter if your extractor messes up the brass. But if your extractor is hardened it can scrape and wear your expensive headspace gauge or vice versa. HOWEVER… I don’t remove my extractors either. I just do it gently and haven’t had any issues. If you’re slamming it in there like you’re chambering a round, then I would expect damage. Run the cycle by hand slowly and it should be fine.
The one reason I tend to strip the bolt specifically on AR type rifles to check headspace is that I'm checking the headspace of the bolt/barrel combo BEFORE I install the barrel into the upper. That's when that ejector spring becomes an issue because I don't have a cam pin and spring to give me mechanical advantage in that particular situation. My thinking is, I want to know if the parts I bought are going to agree with each other before I go to the work of torqueing the barrel nut down so that I can get a problem sorted out easier if one exists.
If you push parallel to the bore, it is quite easy to check head space with the ejector in the bolt..I do this with the extractor removed..
I agree with the Grey Ghost. For an AR, I always check headspace *before* installing the barrel, and without any mechanical leverage I believe that the ejector could give you a false reading. Especially 308 ARs with twin ejectors and robust springs.
@@chipsterb4946 How could the ejector give a false reading??
@@hairydogstail as I was taught by introducing resistance to closing the stripped bolt by hand. However, I certainly will try it both with and without the ejector when I need to check headspace on an AR build again.
I had a “match chamber” on a 308 AR barrel a couple years ago where the bolt would not close on the Go gauge. I returned the barrel with the bolt to the barrel vendor. They reamed an additional thousandth+ out of the chamber, and the bolt just barely closed on the Go gauge. I am not sure that I would have the same feel for the bolt closing on the headspace gauge if the ejector were still in place. Normally the chamber just isn’t that tight.
@@chipsterb4946 If an AR 5.56 chamber will not close on a go gauge, I will then check the ejector to make sure it is functioning properly..I found an out of spec bolt that was not drilled far enough in the ejector hole this way.. The ejector would not travel all the way to the bolt face and did give a false head space reading.. This is why I check head space with the ejector installed.. If the ejector is good, then I know it is the head space..Just a procedure I have done for many years..I use incremental head space gauges to find the exact head space per barrel and bolt being used..Most 5.56 minimum head space measures above the minimum spec of 1.4646 ..Short chambers are much more common than excessive.. I also use a custom function gauge to check the chamber and throat.. Tight chambers and improper machined throats are also very common..
I'll give my take on the subject, when I was getting my associates degree for gunsmithing (thanks GI bill), we were instructed to disassemble our bolts for checking headspace. I believe this was not so much a "you must" disassemble your bolt to check headspace but more of a teaching method to prepare students for chambering a barrel later on in the curriculum. As I'm sure you know, you have much more feel when the bolt is disassembled thus aiding in making a judgment call during chambering. You can certainly close a Go gauge on a tight but within spec chamber, it is also going to feel different than a chamber on the looser side of the SAAMI spec. In the end its about feel and the school wanted students to know what to look/feel for on a completed rifle. In closing, do you need to disassemble a bolt to check a pre chambered barrel, no, but it would be wise to do so if you are cutting the chamber yourself.
When I re-barreled an M1 Garand, the book for the M1 Garand I used to help me with it (first time doing it so I wanted to make sure I did it correctly), said to remove, so I did. But it’s the only time I’ve ever done it and I only did it because the book said to do so.
Thank you for this video! Before I checked the checked the headspace on a rifle my SIL inherited from his Dad I watched a lot of TH-cam and they all said to remove the ejector pin first. That didn't remove the ejector pin because I didn't believe it was necessary. I suspected this rifle might have excessive headspace because when I tried to load some 130 gr bullets the bullets were almost out of the brass before it reached the rifling. The bolt closed on Go gauge easily but not the No Go gauge. I was able to put 2 layers of scotch tape (.002" each) on the No Go gauge and still close the bolt. This rifle had .011" of headspace! My SIL had paid a local "gunsmith'" to Cerakote it and he sprayed EVERYTHING including the inside of the action and the barrel. When they installed the barrel they stretched the threads on the barrel and the action. I gave it back to my SIL and told him not to shoot it anymore. I removed the ejector pin and got the same results.
Thank you for all the information.
Thank you gentlemen. I did not understand the angle ground into Clymer headspace gauges at what would be the case head. Now I know it’s a ramp to facilitate getting the gauge under the extractor.
For a bolt action this seems perfect. For an AR I will stick with taking the bolt apart because I’m testing headspace *before* installing the barrel in the upper and have no mechanical leverage at that point. Also, I already paid for the bolt disassembly jig and roll pins cost next to nothing so why not?
I agree with you guys. In the process of doing something to repair an issue on a very expensive, very accurate AR-15 barrel that I read couldn't be fixed, but did fix it, I had need of using head space gauges. Oddly enough, in the copious amount of information I went through, the multiple gun gurus never mentioned disassembling the bolt, so I did not. I did however, use light force and caution as I was unfamiliar with the process I was attempting. No problems, no issues forthcoming. The barrel still shoots 1/2 MOA.
I appreciate this video and I've wondered the same thing. I can tell you this... if you pull the extractor from a Ruger American bolt to check headspace you will not be happy when it's time to reinstall the extractor. I've heard that the Remington 700 bolt is difficult too. I recently checked headspace on my 7mm Rem Mag (Sendero) and I did not strip the bolt.
I leave the ejector in the bolt when head spacing the AR15 chamber..I have found defective ejectors/ejector drill holes in the bolt this way.. Some claim it is hard on the gauge itself, but I have not seen any evidence of this in my experience..I do remove the extractor, as it is an easy task and makes the process easier while checking the extractor spring..
When I was an Armorer in the USMC we did quarterly checks on all the firearms we had. We never once disassembled the bolts to do headspace checks. I was trained to do it that way and was told it was totally unnecessary. Another thing was that the last unit I was attached to had over 400 M16A2's which would take a lot of time to disassemble to just do a headspace check.
Not necessarily if you are using "field" guages to check for worn chambers. If you are using "go" and "no-go" guages to set up a PRS rifle you need to feel the slight drag on the guage that not stripping the bolt will disguise.
Thank you for your service but you were using "field" guages for that. "No-go" guages can be forced into slightly tight chambers pretty easily.
I was an ADF Armourer and we tested headspace on many different firearms with Go/No-go gauges without disassembling the bolts either.
I have replaced barrels on 2 of my rifles, and the manufacturer instructions were to remove the extractor, but not the ejector, during the installation.
I was wondering why the bolt needed to be stripped. The gun operates with the bolt assembled, so why not gage it with the bolt assembled? I really enjoy these videos.
The only thing that I could think of is that people are comparing the soft brass case to the hardened steel gauge and thinking there might be issues with that.
I had a Savage 110 that needed a new barrel. When the replacement barrel arrived, it came with both a "go" and "no-go" gauge, along with the required wrench and a set of instructions, in which was specifically stated to leave the bolt fully assembled when checking the headspace. So far, no issues of any sort.
Agree 100% with this. Like with alot of things, you do it your way and I'll do it mine.
If the extractor won't go over the rim of the headspace gauge, just use some of the pomade Caleb keeps in his toolbox as a lubricant.
On my new Sauer 100 it was very difficult to close the bolt on a live round. The Sauer techs thought the issue might have been caused by its strong dual ejectors, but I doubted it. Since I did not have any 6.5 CM gauges, I paid another gunsmith $20 to strip the bolt and use his gauges. He determined it was right on the margin but closer than he'd like for a GO gauge. I returned it to Sauer and they confirmed it was beyond their acceptable specs and could not be repaired, so they sent me a replacement rifle. It arrived last week. This is why why I always strip bolts before using my gauges.
I don’t feel like stripping down the whole BCG most of the time lol checking headspace with a complete BCG is just fine. No way you’re gonna get a false reading. It’s gonna go into battery or it won’t. Great video as always
The process is easier if the extractor is removed with an AR15..You can check the extractor spring by using the insert at the same time..Very easy to remove the extractor from an AR15 bolt..
@@hairydogstail easy but not necessary
@@ethan5.56 No but you do risk damaging the extractor as it is meant to snap over brass, not hard steel..
@@hairydogstail my headspace gauges have a relief for the extractor so it isn't even touching it
@@ethan5.56 Then you're good to go..
I was taught back in the ‘70s that you had to strip your bolt. I asked why, and never got a legitimate answer. For multiple years I would check without and then pass it off to the know-it-all who said you had to, and we always came up with the same determination. I’ve never stripped a bolt just to check headspace.
Always a good fact check to get someone to explain their beliefs to you.
If they can't articulate it, they probably don't understand it themself.
Soooo!!!!! I have an AR style and being new to the practice of headspace guaging, Dr Google says "strip the bolt" and I did so. Passed with flying colors, and I reassembled the bolt. The extractor pin passed with flying colors as well. Right past my shoulder and into another dimension because it isn't on the shop floor. Fortunately I have a bolt rebuild kit and can make amends, but that pin is not worth reinstalling unless there is a need. Now I find out that it may remain in place. Thanks for a clear explaination.
One exception to this rule is Lee Enfields. The reason for this is the way they eject cases, the extractor pushes the case toward the left side of the chamber and when the case mouth clears the chamber friction from the rim on the receiver is what tips the case out to eject it.
If you don't remove the extractor the gauge will press toward the left side of the chamber and often the chamfered edge will scratch the chamber and the rim will scratch the receiver upon ejection.
One solution is to remove the material on the gauge that the extractor would clip over.
I've always heard about only taking the firing pin out for checking headspace on brass with setting the shoulder back and feeling in your chamber for a snug fit and not having the resistance of the firing pin somehow. Not the easiest to do with a mauser bolt though so ive just been FL sizing and using chamber type headspace guages for now
For 98 model Mausers and variants (NOT model 96 Swedes): if you DO choose to remove the extractor from the bolt, then you must ALSO remove the extractor collar. That is not fun. Why, though? Because if you leave the extractor collar on and then insert the bolt, the now-exposed little collar lugs will get trapped in the lug recess reserved for the bolt's third "safety lug". At that point you cannot push the bolt forward nor retract it. You will need some very long thin needle-nose like pliers to fish it out. Guess how I know this. Even then, with both the extractor off and collar off, and you've checked headspace, it is an excrutiating process to get the collar back on without permanently distorting it.
Glad you all tackeld this topic!!!
I suspect, as with alot of other processes, that it was put forth so as to be usable to the least competent person who would attempt it.
Meanin, if you always remove the extractor, then you can't possibly break one trying to force the bolt closed on an already chambered gage. 😅
And I wonder how many damaged extractors some guy had to fix before he gave up on nuance. 😂
It’s nice when installing a new barrel to accurately get a reading where the bolt handle stops on a no-go guage, and to try and get the chamber as close to “go” spec as you can yet feel zero resistance when closing the bolt. But just checking a rifle and making sure it will not swallow a field guage I wouldn’t bother stripping a bolt.
I have stripped the bolt, because I wanted to know all I can know, when building my AR's. Plus with my Real Avid bench block its very easy. But, I have tried it on a regular bolt, with no issues either.
It really all boils down to: Its my gun(s) and my problem, if I did it wrong! BUT, I don't want to blow my face off, being stupid or lazy either! I check every build!
Caleb's time of the month!
As a layman, I'd be worried about peening the top of the guage over time, or gnawing at the extractor where the extractor meets the guage.
I have limited experience with barrel swaps, I've done maybe 10 in my life, I figured you'd want to head space it the way you shoot it and that's with the bolt intact. Although a few people assured me I would die if I did it this way. I'm here typing and not dead and my rifles shoot well. I compete in F-Class open and TR. I've done shouldered and nut styles, gotta say the pre fit shoulder is the way to go.
If you are using a "field" guage there is no reason to strip the bolt. Using a "no-go" guage properly, it's very easy to force the guage into a slightly tight chamber. It takes an experienced'smith to feel the slight drag of a "no-go" guage in a tight chamber and leaving the extractor and ejector on hides the slight drag one is aiming for. For a combat weapon or even a hunting rifle this is unnecessary but no one would make the effort to put together a PRS without removing the extractor and ejector. Most people can use a "field" guage correctly but using a "no-go" guage incorrectly is a waste of time. My own long-time gunsmith uses the method described in "Hatcher's Notebooks" and achieves quite good results.
The bolt must not close on the no-go gauge, so that means I must try to close it. The only way to try close the bolt on an AR is to bang on the forward assist. I guess that's the issue I've got - banging on the forward assist doesn't have the leverage of closing a bolt handle, so I just don't get an accurate feel when I'm pushing against the ejector and the gauge.
If the chamber has excessive headspace, but otherwise everything is clean and in good condition, why wouldn't a bolt close on a NO GO gauge using just the spring pressure from the recoil spring--especially if the bolt closes on the GO gauge without excessive resistance?
If you really want to be extra sure the NO GO gauge won't chamber, you can always stand your upper vertically with the NO GO gauge and BCG installed, then with both hands holding the upper, push the back of the BCG against a tabletop or other hard surface. That lets you apply pressure with both hands. You could even tap it against the surface for extra force, though that starts to sound like a recipe for damaged locking lugs or a jammed bolt.
You are suppose to remove the upper from the lower when checking head space..Insert the gauge in the chamber and slowly push the carrier from the rear..You are suppose to use (ONLY) 8 1/2 to 3 3/4 pounds of force to close the bolt..I do remove the extractor for ease and to save the extractor..The most complete and best way is to remove both the ejector and extractor, to get the best possible results and avoid a false reading like a malfunctioning ejector..
The novice tends to go by the book, and the book is usually wrong. It is like torquing the barrel on a bolt action, without understanding the first 100 rounds fired will finalize the torque on that barrel. Changing barrels is easy, unless you have dreams of Remington. There is a reason we use Savage 110 actions! So how do you touch up the chamber on your barrels? Do you turn the barrel or the reamer?
Great video, Need one on AR10 bolts head spaces and barrels. Info everywhere on don't mix armalite and dpms patterns but no info on how to tell. Barrels say ar10 style. Also 7.62/.308 headspace. Can get a. 308 no-go guage to close on a .308 barrel every time manufacturers say oh we use 7.62 headspace gauges.
As far as I know, the two AR10/308/whatever use the same barrels. The difference lie in the rear end of the upper receiver and how it is machined, different dimensions.
I've got a question for you guys....if I have a headspace check fail with the no-go gauge then I still move on to the field gauge. If it works with the field gauge then it's still good to shoot. Is there really any utility for a non-armorer like me who builds for hobby purposes to even use/buy a no-go gauge?
Do you shoot rifles that fail the no-go, but pass the field? If you don't, then how would you know it would pass the no-go if you don't have it?
And one thing to keep in mind that no all headspaces share the same spec. It can pass one and fail the other on different "go/no go" gauges.
@@GldenRetriever I have been buying the no-go gauges. I wasn't buying the field gauges unless it failed with the no-go. I've never had a 5.56 fail out of maybe 7 or 8 I've built. While building a 50 Beowulf upper it failed with PTG headspace gauges in both directions with every combination of barrel/bolt. I can't do anything about a go gauge failure but a field gauge was purchased to see if I could make it work. Then that got me thinking...if I'm shooting it with a looser requirement (field gauge) then what is the purpose of even buying the no-go gauge? Saves me $40-$70 per cartridge type.
@@JenkinsStevenDThe .223 NoGo 1.4666" is for bolt only non-semiauto rifles. The 5.56 NoGo's 1.4696" existence is fuzzy to me. And, we all know what the field guage is for. Maybe the 5.56 NoGo was used as a field guage at one time, but then they decided it could go further and still be safe, thus the Field guage.
@@JenkinsStevenD The no go can be dependent on the manufacturer..If a no go gauge fails then the brass will have a shorter life if you reload and it can effect accuracy..It does not mean the chamber is unsafe..That is what a field gauge will find..I have found more short chambers determined by the go gauge in the AR platform than either the no or field gauge..
The rims on headspace gauges can be ginormous. As a surplus Mauser user, I find it's better to manually put the headspace gauge in the bolt face than to let the rifle chamber the gauge; also because the gauge is shorter than the cartridge, the gauge can fail to feed.
I would like to know where the link to that bolt action rifle is. What little I could see looked nice.
Does this mean Brownell's lifetime warranty will cover any gauges I bought and get damaged by using this method even if I did not use them by the instructions from the manufacturer? Since a lot of current coatings and treatments are harder than what the gauge is required to be would getting a burr on the gauge from the extra spring tension and or rotational forces be covered under your warranty?
No. Ask me how I know.
@@Paladin1873... That's what I thought. They're all shady these days, that's why they didn't answer him.
Only thing i can think of is if its hook in the bolt where does that extra space go for the no-go sideif its 2 or 3 thousands longer than the go gauge , i have heared of people using tape on the go gauge to simulate a no-go gauge
Hi guys. I have a chamber in 233 WYLDE. Is annealing my brass a way to extend the life of the brass?
You can't go wrong if you disassemble the bolt , as far as headspacing goes that is , of course other blunders can happen but that's just life .
It means more time absolutely , but it is the method that is most widely applicable .
So I guess that's where people get the word never , by taking a rule of thumb and adding it to the commandments.
The reason I do it is to eliminate additional stress on the gage from the ejector springs. I believe it shortens the life of the gage. It is a precision instrument for all practical purposes.
Gauge
Shortening its lifespan?
A headspace gauge is going to be harder than the barrel steel is, you're not going to ever wear one out.
@@russr Then you should remove the extractor as not to harm it with the harder head space gauge..
@@russrThey do wear. I have to replace headspace gauges at least 2x a year and I'm easy on them.
Question if it doesn’t head space with the extractor than wouldn’t it be out with a live round too
What headspace measurement should an AR chambered in 5.56 be for maximum reliability if shooting both .223 & 5.56 ammunition?
I've heard semiautos need at least .004", which is greater distance than the .223 Go 1.4636" & .223 NoGo 1.4666".
So, would you really want your new 5.56 AR to close on a .223 NoGo guage?
The TDP minimum head space (go gauge) chamber is 1.4646..The 223 chamber is 1.4636..When a chamber gets hot the chamber will shrink lengthwise..No Go gauge does not mean the chamber is a fail..That is what the field gauge is for..5.56 and 223 have different go, no go and field gauge lengths..
Nine years ago, Steve did a video where he said you need to take out the extractor and ejector.
Lol I know, these dudes are comical
I try and avoid acting SOTARDED when working on firearms. thanks for the 411. some folks get wrapped way to tightly around milking every penny from their "followers"
Do you recommend it even if it’s from a quality distributor with bcg and barrel from the same distributor?
Yes
If I'm going to get just one gauge for building ARs, which size or whatever would you recommend?
If it is a 5.56 chamber then the go gauge of 1.4646 and the field gauge of 1.4706/1.4708
How do you cut the notch, a file?
To be honest I’m 60 years old and have been shooting most of them and I don’t know what headspace is. I recently started reloading so I guess I’ll have to figure it out.
You want the ejectors out so that you can range the headspace ( between 0.XX and 0.XX . Even tho its .002 or whatever, you want it to be within a min and a max headspace not technically at one exact distance. Sure with the ejector in the low end is fully covered, but you wont get an exact measurement on the high end.
Example, with a 50 cal machine gun, you want it between 0.204 and 0.206, sure .0205 is ideal. But thats not the point you want it to fit with .204 and you want it to not fit with 206, BOTH simultaneously. And it sounds almost redundant but with the ejector you cannot say that the “no go” does not work.
Hope that helps!
Headspace is a proper measurement of “distance” not an exact point is all I’m trying to say. The ejectors dont bother one end of the distance but they do sliiightly interfere with the lower end of the distance.
Have done it both ways and couldn't see a difference so 'mostly' now I don't strip.
Midway founder has a video on their channel where he says you absolutely have to strip the bolt. Personally I am on the side of brownells. It is strange however seeing the 2 biggest firearm distributors at opposite ends of the spectrum. This can only be settled in a ufc octagon.
Take the couple of minutes needed to disassemble the bolt. It’s easier than getting the bolt stuck.
I stopped reading forum fairies and their infinite fantastical wisdom. It's like they're their own thinktank. They'll come up with something new (if it hasn't been done yet) like "you should lube your rounds before putting them in the magazine to keep from binding."
If "ain't nobody got time for that" then why don't those new headspace gauges have the entire rear rim removed so that neither the extractor or ejector(s) are affected when checking an assembled bolt?
Brother, on certain topics, especially concerning life saving equipment, I think people get "triggered" because - as a person in an education role, teaching things in a way that could damage and deform a measuring tool could have consequences that the user would not be able to easily verify. Headspace gauges exist because we cannot see this measurement with our eyes and using a soft brass cartridge that conforms to a chamber doesn't prove anything either. So, just as we cannot easily visually verify the headspace of a chamber+bolt combination, we also can't verify the integrity of a headspace gauge with our eyes. Aside from major drops or gouges, deformation to a headspace gauge can't be seen with the human eye. It would need to be recertified by the manufacturer or measured in some other way (maybe a headspace micrometer) in order to be verified as "calibrated"; that's if it checks out to be the size it says it is. If the gauge becomes out of spec over time from using it in this aggressive manner, how often if ever do you think folks using these gauges will check them or have them checked? And if they are getting false readings, would they know? The point of being careful with your measurement tools, is to maintain their accuracy. Because if you aren't getting accurate measurements, there is no point; might as well just "run it bro" like the internet says.
And if the argument is that headspace gauges don't deform, then why is it that almost all the budget manufacturer barrels I've checked have tight as hell headspace? Some of that is because they may be choosing to set it tight for some stupid made up reason (using sammi spec instead of Colt spec/Nato Spec); but it may be because they are using worn out headspace gauges and haven't bothered to have them checked after checking thousands and thousands of barrels. I've got a friend, sent a barrel back to a major high end manufacturer for not closing on any of his go gauges. They sent it back two different occasions saying its fine. Why would it close on their gauges but not on his 3 different types of go gauges (Forester, PTG, and PTG Extension Gauge)... because their freakin gauges are out of spec and they haven't bothered to have them checked is my bet.
I've heard folks mention that manufacturers of gel capsules for medications have to change their aluminum dyes and tooling after a week or two - because even something as soft as a gel capsule creates friction that eventually wears the tooling out. So don't tell me that you can indefinitely use a headspace gauge with no effect to its dimension, especially if you're talking about a shop environment.
I assume this methodology is true for an AR-10/.308/AK308. Is this a fair statement?
Has anyone ever checked headspace and found it to be out of spec? I have never heard of anyone seeing it...
Yes, it happens more than you might think.
Holy Crap! I'm going to be triggered if I learn I've been stripping ejectors from bolts for No Damn Reason!? For Years!!?? Craaaaaaaap!!!!!!!!!!
Headspace gages are precision tools. Technically dropping one ruins it, closing a bolt by forcing one to headspace while using ejectors/extractors can technically damage the gage, the extractor.
Jam and cram crew setting headspace at brownells hahahhaha
FTA
Question, how important is it to ck head space with a DIY build using quality parts?
I had the same thought process until I built my 308 AR. I used parts from reputable manufacturers, bcg and barrel from same company as a package. Did not go cheap either. Actually called them to ask if they head space checked them when purchased together. I was "assured" they were in spec and no they don't head space check them. I only used two manufacturers, one makes parts for the other, so I thought I was minimizing compatibility issues especially with this platform. Built the rifle, had cycling issues from the start. Started changing things one at a time, gas flow, buffer weight, different ammo. Contacted the main manufacturer, they sent out replacement parts at no cost trying to help me with the issue. Why I didn't look at the brass prior, I don't know, my fault. Found fine shavings coming off the brass, and gouging on them as well. Ordered a set of go/no-go gauges. The bolt would not rotate with the go gauge. I even stripped the bolt and took the barrel out to make sure nothing was interfering. Had to send the bcg and barrel back for " their" investigation. They replaced the whole bolt as it was not in spec! So long story short, I won't build another AR platform without checking it. You can get bad parts from reputable manufacturers and it seems like it's getting more frequent.
It doesn't matter. I've built 5 AR's and they all work fine, shoot accurate and have been doing so for years. Never used any gauge of any kind to check anything. Just don't buy bottom of the barrel or Chinese parts.
Always check head space with any new build including the AR15..Different bolts can give different head space so always check head space when changing a bolt or barrel.. The minimum for the 5.56 or 223 Wylde is 1.4646..There is a reason Colt's TDP specifies a longer minimum head space than a commercial 223 chamber..Tight chambers can cause accuracy, malfunction and pressure issues, especially when the chamber gets hot.. Short chambered AR15 barrels are more common than many would believe..
If the bolt it not made by the barrel manufacturer its a good idea to check it.
Never made any sense to me to strip the bolt.
If you do this on a savage action no need for glasses it won’t eject anyway😂
🤔😳🤣 people are so stupid! If you don’t know how to do something then take it to a gunsmith and let them do it for you😱
Then why do you exclusively sell a set of Forster gauges with a reduced rim and notch cut for the ejector? The condescending undertone never fails from you two.
headspace is when yer mom takes it in the head fer cash. like last night......