Good info Stan. When rebuilding a Kurt recently, the o-rings in recesses on each side of the front underside of the moveable jaw were missing. I found out that the front of the jaw actually rides on the o-rings, which ensure a slight lift to the front of the moveable jaw. The o-rings compress as the jaw is forced tight to the ways by the screw/ball arrangement, thus providing downward force to the clamped object as the vise is tightened. If the o-rings are missing or very worn, the jaw rides flat on the bearing surface and downward force on the object is significantly reduced. Nothing like a couple of bucks in o-rings to optimize performance of a $900 vise!
Of course the moveable part still has stability with the bar high. Put the bar low and you’ll see something else. This is known phenomena on nearly all vices and is to be taken into consideration when holding uneven work pieces. This can be influenced to your liking by holding with greater pressure high OR low even on vices without this feature.
Good video just for more information not to criticize. Your vise must have a deeper cavity in the movable jaws. On a true Kirt vise the tapped holes in the moveable jaw don't intersect a cavity in the casting. I also have some GS brand vises that this is also like the Kirt vises.
Looks like on the Kurt it might be good to loosen the center screw to allow putting a bit of oil under the movable jaw. Only question is how to avoid getting debris under there with the oil.
You can actually loosen the set screw enough to allow you to remove the movable jaw entirely and clean underneath it. Just don't lose the 1/2 round bearing inside. I do it all the time. Chips will build up inside the vise and start to cause problems if not cleaned semi-regularly.
The O ring design is very bad for the vise, allowing chips to find their way between the jaw and bed. There is enough pull down force without them. I haven't seen a vise in a shop that didn't have them removed for that reason.
@@RichieRichOverdrive True. At least you are aware of them. And I'm sure you know what the slot on the clamp end is, or was for before it got lost. LOL
I was a machinist for 41 years. I ran cnc mills and Manuel mills. Cnc lathes and manual lathes. I programmed both of them as well. I made small parts for the computer industry and I made 10 ton gears for aircraft carriers. I worked with just about every material imaginable. After being retired for 6 now there are two things I can say about machine shop work. I’m sick of it. Watching your video reminds me of nothing but regret knowing of all the time I lost with my kids because of all the overtime I did. Secondly, I don’t miss all the ego that hangs in the air around machine shops. If someone is thinking of becoming a machinist...do yourself and your health a huge favor and become a Park ranger.
Sounds like any other Job. I have friends that are Machinist's and love it. I was a Cop for awhile. Talk about overtime and Headaches. Working Days, Nights, Weekends , Holidays and overtime on Special Details because of the crapy Money you made. What Health problems do you have that you can blame on being a Machinist? Stop deterring young People from becoming Machinist as it's a noble profession. Or maybe you prefer them getting a Degree in some useless Category like most do.
Very helpful! When I noticed the back of my Yuasa vise's movable jaw kicking up I was ready to take it apart. You saved me some trouble today.
Good oiling tip Stan!
I taught metal shop for over 20 years and I never knew that one!
Thanks and all the best!
Mike
Not sure if the pressure line against the fingertips is ideally advised though . Maybe blank off with a bung off some sort
Stan, always nice to pick up a few new tips on a Friday, TNX! Have a great weekend1
Between you, TOT and Joe Pie, i'm claiming three units of viceology tonight!
Good info Stan. When rebuilding a Kurt recently, the o-rings in recesses on each side of the front underside of the moveable jaw were missing. I found out that the front of the jaw actually rides on the o-rings, which ensure a slight lift to the front of the moveable jaw. The o-rings compress as the jaw is forced tight to the ways by the screw/ball arrangement, thus providing downward force to the clamped object as the vise is tightened. If the o-rings are missing or very worn, the jaw rides flat on the bearing surface and downward force on the object is significantly reduced. Nothing like a couple of bucks in o-rings to optimize performance of a $900 vise!
Really good tips Stan. Thanks a zillion for showing and sharing. Keep 'em rolling
ATB
aRM
Cool trick on oiling the vise . thanx !!! thumbs up.
Awesome video
Thank you
Just picked up a Kurt yesterday.
Useful stuff Stan - thanks.
thanks for the tip will give it a try on my china vice.
Good Information
Great vid! Love the oiling info! Thanks!!
Enjoyed Stan, nicely done!
ATB, Robin
Good research, Stan.
Interesting, thanks for the info Stan.
Some good information Stan thanks
Great video thanks
Hi Stan,
Well done! All good info.
Take Care,
Reid
Splendid video Stan! New subscriber and looking forward to all your videos.
Thanks for posting.
Of course the moveable part still has stability with the bar high. Put the bar low and you’ll see something else. This is known phenomena on nearly all vices and is to be taken into consideration when holding uneven work pieces. This can be influenced to your liking by holding with greater pressure high OR low even on vices without this feature.
Good video just for more information not to criticize. Your vise must have a deeper cavity in the movable jaws. On a true Kirt vise the tapped holes in the moveable jaw don't intersect a cavity in the casting. I also have some GS brand vises that this is also like the Kirt vises.
Good info, when they said "clone" I was expecting same in all respects.
Edge Precision Indeed.
Good information/ If the real Kurts don't have this then it might be a good mod to help facilitate lubrication.
Looks like on the Kurt it might be good to loosen the center screw to allow putting a bit of oil under the movable jaw. Only question is how to avoid getting debris under there with the oil.
You can actually loosen the set screw enough to allow you to remove the movable jaw entirely and clean underneath it. Just don't lose the 1/2 round bearing inside. I do it all the time. Chips will build up inside the vise and start to cause problems if not cleaned semi-regularly.
Good info
No mention of the O rings at the front of movable jaw. They lift the front of the jaw .010 or so. This makes the downward movement possible.
The O ring design is very bad for the vise, allowing chips to find their way between the jaw and bed. There is enough pull down force without them. I haven't seen a vise in a shop that didn't have them removed for that reason.
@@RichieRichOverdrive True. At least you are aware of them. And I'm sure you know what the slot on the clamp end is, or was for before it got lost. LOL
Good tips Stan.
nice stuff as always Stan!
I was a machinist for 41 years. I ran cnc mills and Manuel mills. Cnc lathes and manual lathes. I programmed both of them as well. I made small parts for the computer industry and I made 10 ton gears for aircraft carriers. I worked with just about every material imaginable.
After being retired for 6 now there are two things I can say about machine shop work.
I’m sick of it. Watching your video reminds me of nothing but regret knowing of all the time I lost with my kids because of all the overtime I did.
Secondly, I don’t miss all the ego that hangs in the air around machine shops.
If someone is thinking of becoming a machinist...do yourself and your health a huge favor and become a Park ranger.
Sounds like any other Job. I have friends that are Machinist's and love it.
I was a Cop for awhile. Talk about overtime and Headaches. Working Days, Nights, Weekends , Holidays and overtime on Special Details because of the crapy Money you made.
What Health problems do you have that you can blame on being a Machinist?
Stop deterring young People from becoming Machinist as it's a noble profession. Or maybe you prefer them getting a Degree in some useless Category like most do.
Righteee ooooh
why didn't you put the gauge base on the vise slideway to eliminate flex in the fixed jaw?
Even better would be on the machine table, as the vise body will warp when tightened, so it too can affect the reading.
Thank you.
interesting!
Or I suppose you could just leave the screws in the other end of the movable jaw when you oil it. :)
Thanks for the tips!
Thank you.