Some people have no appreciation for a little learning. Sure, it's not the most wonderful trick in the machining world, but it provides a way of doing a radius that shows some thinking outside the box. I agree with you that people will complain about anything just to be contrary. I appreciate you showing this, Arnold. Keep doing what you're doing.
Actually I have been doing this for a long time with excellent results, but it's not weird. For all who insist on a radius cutter: not every radius is 90 degrees, not every radius has a commercial cutter to match, radius cutters are expensive and usually HSS, I can use a common shell mill with carbide inserts to do this very quickly, This method also needs a less rigid spindle because you only have to take a shallow cut if need be, everyone doesn't have a NMTB 50 machine to hold a 2" radius cutter, even if you wanted to buy one for a one off part. So people get a grip because this method works, and is it frequently the fastest and most cost effective way to get the job done.
@@stephensarkany3577 Agree with you. Back in the day before CNC became as prevalent as it is today, we used to draw Involute curves (gears) on a Coordinatograph (fancy, accurate drafting table) using single points and connecting them with a french curve. I'm sure newbies today would cringe at what was done before the days of Mastercam, Solidworks, Esprit and the like. I for one appreciate people like Arnold that show alternate ways of doing things. There will come a day in everyone's career when no matter what machine you work on, it won't do what you need and you need to be able to improvise.
@@DonsWoodies Too often after I see knowledge like this imparted I am reminded of something my departed Grandmother used to say; "If you don't have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all".
I know Im asking randomly but does any of you know a method to get back into an Instagram account? I was dumb forgot the account password. I love any tips you can give me
@Ricky Fernando I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Great method for people who have a mill and limited resources, particularly if their mill isn't stiff enough for a radius cutter, or is too small to mount a rotary table. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Arnold, This is very similar to the quick milling machine radius that Dale from Metal tips and tricks release a video on a while back, minus the through hole. Personally I think his method is a little better as it was faster to "index" to the cut, also from memory he didn't need a file to clean up after. Regards
Would it be possible to cut guide holes on both sides, adhere a ball bearing on each side using grease, then clamp the assembly in your mill so it could be rotated while milling without having to loosen the clamp to reposition it? (Perhaps with a reusable shimmed guide with matching holes between the workpiece and the clamp.)
@@ArnoldsDesign @Tom Eubank. i was thinking about it, it turns out there are already semi CNC devices out there (KMB 1 HURCO) for the same porous as you demonstrated, so.... my mind came up with this simple idea, .a turntable vice . i.e. a vice strong enough to hold the piece at the same time the vice can turn on the axis like you did it manually. if you draw or sketch any thing, even very rough, i draw it for you and test it in 3D and send you the you tube and CAD files. waiting your next sketch for this. i will now go look for ready made 3D vises, try to modify them to your idea, wish me luck.
Nice tip. Linear approximation is a useful tool. Tom Lipton over at Ox Tools showed something similar with a vertical curve on his baby bullet project. Easy to follow and well explained. Nice.
Have used the same effect but with a through hole as the pivot point. Works well where you need a large concentric radius cut around a hole for aesthetic purposes. Then finish off on a linisher. This is a good method for when there is no hole.
A belt sander is a million times quicker and if you want better accuracy then carbide router bits made for doing wood are cheap as chips and they work surprisingly well
Very clever and close enough for governemnt work. Were you not taught to move the file only in the cut direction and not drag it backwards over the work surface?
Nice idea having time and patience :-) Indeed its not a radius or curved surface . But a series of facets, not equal in size or angle, but perpendicular to the same center. And easily smoothed with a file or sandpaper.
Its what CNC can do so very easily :) .... laser cutting is all ok if you don't want a tight tolerance as i'm yet to find one that can hold a real tolerance..... say 0.020mm
Actually, you can use a center drill, or any other small bit. You use a pin whose diameter is larger than the diameter of the hole, so that the pin’s sides of the point, ground to between 60 and 90 degrees, contacts the edges at the point where they meet the surface. It’s much more sturdy than what was done here, and more accurate and repeatable. I really don’t trust that pin, because each time you set it, the pin position changed with respect to the jaw top. As a result the pivot distance varied. Ok, I get that this isn’t supposed to be a precision project. But there are ways to make even this method much better, but requires just a bit of work. But really, buying a cheap 6” rotary table on eBay is a much better idea. It takes less time to set that up than to do this. A quick tip to set some small part horizontal. Use a 1/2” or larger dia flat end mill bit, or get a short 1/2” carbide bar. Set your basic height with the pin, making sure the vise isn’t tightened, and lower the flat down until it just contacts the surface of the part, in about the middle of the center of the pin. That will level the part, and you can tighten the vise.
That is an awful tedious process for a radius that is probably just decorative. I would do three segments, 45°, 22.5°, and 67.5°, and then use a file or sandpaper. But I also have a couple of corner rounding cutters.
or just whip out the angle grinder......do a 45 on each corner then round off....but I agree as well.....this looks tedious for the results...not knocking his technique or anything since there is more than one way to skin a cat.
OK good idea so how about this make a tool with a 2 mm hole in it shaped to rest on the vice jaw top and also be trapped between the vice jaws with the part being cut. this tool would need to be fixed in position so as to not travel in the X axis but this way the pin location could be a fixed point that could be a removable pin that would stay in the part being machined so the part is stable in it's rotation the tool could have a small radius on it to be smaller than the smallest one you plan to cut
why not just lay something round on your stock draw a circle around it and take the grinder to get most of the cut off and then go to the mill . I do this all the time and I find a grinder is a lot faster than the lave
If you don't need any more precision than that, a cheap Chinese rotary table will save you a couple of hours work and give you a much nicer radius, even with no DRO, and you can use it over and over and over. Or you can easily build a quickie work holder that pivots about a vertical pin.
Its good the attempt to help the community for no personal gain but this method really should not be taught you can simply lay it out and tilt it up a few times not hitting the line and then finish sand, grind file..
Thumbs up, really neat work. On the down side, there was enough metal in that block to make four dozen Chinese toasters. What a waste. Maybe mail them what's left and they can still get 3.5 dozen toasters out of it.
Probably so. I have a whole big box of drops to mess with, and a couple pallets full outside. They accumulate over the years, and you recycle them for chinese toasters, or use them for miscellaneous projects like this. I recycle the mill and lathe shavings mainly.
you reel need a Hurco your manul mill would be in the same place as mine in the corner this machines can be bought for little money they were mad in 1981 89 you can still buy all new parts for them Accurate Machine
@@gorak9000 I looked into Mach a few years ago. I just got a Newall DP700 recently b/c my old Sapphire died. It would be nice to use the linear scales and head to retrofit cnc controls rather than using rotary scales. It's still something I'd like to do.
By slip gauge, I assume you mean an old gauge block or gauge pin. Good idea. You probably should add the diameter of the pivot pin where it rests on the jaw too... Btw I don't really think the minute it took me to indicate this part though would really constitute "clocking up the job".
Its a shame that were not teaching this to our young.were relying on computers to much? Imagine electricity gone? In a big war? Steam engines and leather belts ran shops before electrics.were fucked in a real war.with anarcy? Old school machinist will live
@@martinfidel7086 yes you just use the radius function.if you cut a xz plane radius you input al the radius info on readout.the readout will then give you the coordinates for x and z and you feed with y axis.its only point to point but you can cut very smooth radius by using a ballnose cutter.you can even use a bolthole pattern for an xy plane radius.
It's quite practical if you need a radius on the corner of a small part. Do you have a better way to achieve the same result? (Without expensive specialty tools/attachments)
Nice trick, but meanwhile a lot of cheap DRO´s from China have a Function to cut whatever radius you want, in steppings you want with tool diameter you want, and inside or outside....but it seems your DRO has not this function....so, good job anyway !
Keep falling for China junk. Before long when they take away all the automatic stuff noone will know how to do it long hand. Surely you can see this right?
Way too much work to cut a radius. Much easier to mount it to a rotary table. If you don't have a rotary table it would been too hard to make a jig to cut the radiuses using a lever with a pin that can pivot on rectangle scrap metal with a hole. You just move the lever around the pivot point to cut the radius.
Arnold once again proves that not all machinists are @zzholes.. even though as we can see in these comments - many of them are. Great video, THANK YOU!
10 Jesus answered and said to him, “Are you the teacher of Israel, and do not know these things? 11 Most assuredly, I say to you, We speak what We know and testify what We have seen, and you do not receive Our witness. 12 If I have told you earthly things and you do not believe, how will you believe if I tell you heavenly things? 13 No one has ascended to heaven but He who came down from heaven, that is, the Son of Man who is in heaven. 14 And as Moses lifted up the serpent in the wilderness, even so must the Son of Man be lifted up, 15 that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have eternal life. 16 For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son, that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have everlasting life. 17 For God did not send His Son into the world to condemn the world, but that the world through Him might be saved.18 “He who believes in Him is not condemned; but he who does not believe is condemned already, because he has not believed in the name of the only begotten Son of God (The Great I AM, YHVH, El Shaddai, Adonai, God of Jacob, Isaac, and Abraham). John 3:10-18
@@kesleycottrell1416 I changed the original belt about three years ago. The new one's in good shape. Sometimes if I don't use the mill for a while and leave it on a low speed ratio while shut off, the belt will take a set around the driver pulley's small radius and give a characteristic clunk for a while until it warms up. It's always done that. I try to remember to turn up the ratio before shutting down to prevent that, but I forget sometimes.
A half-way hack from someone who's mill is SCREAMING for maintenance (and oil)...thanks, but I pass...you've left a divot in the part at the radial center mark, you are 'swinging freehand through a curve' (big NO-NO for accuracy), and you are overlooking basic tools (such as indexing heads, ornamental mill table jigs, etc.) to accomplish what you are trying to describe here...
My mill is maintained just fine. It has always sounded like that. I've also had it for 20 years and not one drill hole or end mill mark on the table or vice. That's something you will likely never see on a machine that age.
Show us how you do it, I like seeing lots of different ways of cracking the same nut, but I only tend to criticise if I've got something better to offer.
Make it out of thicker steel and then machine the "divots" off :) as for the lack of maintenance these machines have a belt driven gearbox and always make that noise
@@ArnoldsDesign I have a KRV3000 and it sounds just like yours, I think what people are missing here, is that to do this without CNC or rotary table or dividing head etc is not easy ! This gives people a chance to make more parts for themselves, personally I use mitee bites and a CNC mill but then I have my own factory
@@martinfidel7086 Exactly. Without a cnc or setting up a rotary table, outside radii are a pain. I'm not familiar with the KRV3000, but it might have a similar head. Mine's an Acer built in 97, and it's been rock solid. I'm not familiar with Mitee Bite work holding system. I just looked it up. Looks interesting. What does your factory produce?
whats it with all american tubers... first its my drill, my this my that my what what... we know its yours. second thing... whats with you all get your project metal out of the scrap??? is it a fashion statement? you all sound exactly the same... oh wait there's one more... future project... we dont really want to know who it belongs to or where you scratched it out or what upcoming job you have
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
It never fails..you provide a useful trick to bang out a quick radius and people will find reasons to complain about it.
Yep, I thinking the same thing today.
Some people have no appreciation for a little learning. Sure, it's not the most wonderful trick in the machining world, but it provides a way of doing a radius that shows some thinking outside the box. I agree with you that people will complain about anything just to be contrary. I appreciate you showing this, Arnold. Keep doing what you're doing.
Actually I have been doing this for a long time with excellent results, but it's not weird. For all who insist on a radius cutter:
not every radius is 90 degrees, not every radius has a commercial cutter to match,
radius cutters are expensive and usually HSS,
I can use a common shell mill with carbide inserts to do this very quickly,
This method also needs a less rigid spindle because you only have to take a shallow cut if need be,
everyone doesn't have a NMTB 50 machine to hold a 2" radius cutter, even if you wanted to buy one for a one off part.
So people get a grip because this method works, and is it frequently the fastest and most cost effective way to get the job done.
@@stephensarkany3577 Agree with you. Back in the day before CNC became as prevalent as it is today, we used to draw Involute curves (gears) on a Coordinatograph (fancy, accurate drafting table) using single points and connecting them with a french curve. I'm sure newbies today would cringe at what was done before the days of Mastercam, Solidworks, Esprit and the like. I for one appreciate people like Arnold that show alternate ways of doing things. There will come a day in everyone's career when no matter what machine you work on, it won't do what you need and you need to be able to improvise.
@@DonsWoodies Too often after I see knowledge like this imparted I am reminded of something my departed Grandmother used to say; "If you don't have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all".
You can only use what you've already got... Make the most of what you got people! Great video 👍
Why do you have to use what you've already got when you can make anything?
@@Tricknologyinc Settle petal, you've understood exactly what I intended to say my friend...
@30lbThreadie 👍
This makes me appreciate the CNC's I work with so much more.
Great idea. I have done this with a through hole on the centre and a pin to form the pivot but I've not seen your method before. Cool!
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
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@Eric Bryan Instablaster :)
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Great method for people who have a mill and limited resources, particularly if their mill isn't stiff enough for a radius cutter, or is too small to mount a rotary table. Thanks for sharing.
A job for a portaband and 4 inch grinder or a belt sander or you could just go completely wild and use the correct radius cutter end mill.
Hi Arnold,
This is very similar to the quick milling machine radius that Dale from Metal tips and tricks release a video on a while back, minus the through hole.
Personally I think his method is a little better as it was faster to "index" to the cut, also from memory he didn't need a file to clean up after.
Regards
Except Dale had to bore a hole.
He used a file too.
Would it be possible to cut guide holes on both sides, adhere a ball bearing on each side using grease, then clamp the assembly in your mill so it could be rotated while milling without having to loosen the clamp to reposition it? (Perhaps with a reusable shimmed guide with matching holes between the workpiece and the clamp.)
I don't know. I never tried that. Sounds like it might though.
@@ArnoldsDesign if you want i can draw it on solid works for you for free.
@@ArnoldsDesign @Tom Eubank. i was thinking about it, it turns out there are already semi CNC devices out there (KMB 1 HURCO) for the same porous as you demonstrated, so.... my mind came up with this simple idea, .a turntable vice . i.e. a vice strong enough to hold the piece at the same time the vice can turn on the axis like you did it manually. if you draw or sketch any thing, even very rough, i draw it for you and test it in 3D and send you the you tube and CAD files. waiting your next sketch for this. i will now go look for ready made 3D vises, try to modify them to your idea, wish me luck.
please see conversation below adopting your idea.
@@Dreamer3K Thanks for all the info -- your original video and the update. Tom
Wow, you're really actually... milling around...
(I'll show myself to the door)
You moved the pin a lot, sometimes it was parallel to the moving jaw, at others there was an eighth of an inch under the end nearest to you etc.
You should make a tool that could hold those divots from both sides. Holding it from one side seems a little janky to me.
A good level work as good ? Seeing radius gauges in use from apprentice days & learning to file and sand a radius !
Just mark the radius with a compass and use a linisher
Nice tip. Linear approximation is a useful tool. Tom Lipton over at Ox Tools showed something similar with a vertical curve on his baby bullet project. Easy to follow and well explained. Nice.
Have used the same effect but with a through hole as the pivot point. Works well where you need a large concentric radius cut around a hole for aesthetic purposes. Then finish off on a linisher. This is a good method for when there is no hole.
Well done, a pin into a divot for the axis, haven’t seen that before.
Cheers
Peter
This is a good idea if you don't have a rotary table. I don't know why the thumbs down. Some people just want to piss on anybody else's ideas.
Just step the rad with ball nose,easy quick and accurate. Common practice for cavity milling on mould tools before CNC
A belt sander is a million times quicker and if you want better accuracy then carbide router bits made for doing wood are cheap as chips and they work surprisingly well
Really like this, thank you for sharing! Great camera positioning and explanation - thank you!
Very clever and close enough for governemnt work. Were you not taught to move the file only in the cut direction and not drag it backwards over the work surface?
Cool idea. Using a pin from both side made from a single wire that acts like a spring would making positioning easier. Thanks for the video.
Like a set of screw adjustable calipers with the ends filed to points. That would work well.
@@jimmurphy6095 That is a very good idea.
Nice idea having time and patience :-)
Indeed its not a radius or curved surface . But a series of facets, not equal in size or angle, but perpendicular to the same center. And easily smoothed with a file or sandpaper.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing I really feel inspired now!
Now I understand why so many people get me to laser cut stuff lol, but very impressive old school trick nonetheless!
Its what CNC can do so very easily :) .... laser cutting is all ok if you don't want a tight tolerance as i'm yet to find one that can hold a real tolerance..... say 0.020mm
@@martinfidel7086 The Prima Platino I run at work can get pretty damn close!
@@Eschelonistic most can, but the thing is the operator will often leave it set for thicker material so accuracy & quality is reduced
I'm still looking for something weird, where is it?
Clever trick! Thanks for sharing...
Very Amazing! Thanks for the tip Arnold.
Is it possible to sand the part, using the divot mark as a guide?
Yeah, you could use a bow divider or compass, put one point in the divot and scribe the radius. Then you could grind and sand down to the line.
@@ArnoldsDesign I thought there would be an easier way, (if someone owned a sander of some sort, to do it. Thanks for the reply :)
You forgot to add the diameter of the pin you used it was never level with the vice jaws but a good trick.
I finished 5 of these on the sander in the same time...
don't you have a turret mill then ? :)
Could've done it with a band saw and file in 1/2 the time.
Set the tool height on the top of the jaw at zero then just move up the amount of the desired radius
if my boss saw me doing this, i would be caned faster than tuna,not a pro
what sort of tuna ?
Very interesting. Nice work
Actually, you can use a center drill, or any other small bit. You use a pin whose diameter is larger than the diameter of the hole, so that the pin’s sides of the point, ground to between 60 and 90 degrees, contacts the edges at the point where they meet the surface. It’s much more sturdy than what was done here, and more accurate and repeatable.
I really don’t trust that pin, because each time you set it, the pin position changed with respect to the jaw top. As a result the pivot distance varied.
Ok, I get that this isn’t supposed to be a precision project. But there are ways to make even this method much better, but requires just a bit of work. But really, buying a cheap 6” rotary table on eBay is a much better idea. It takes less time to set that up than to do this.
A quick tip to set some small part horizontal. Use a 1/2” or larger dia flat end mill bit, or get a short 1/2” carbide bar. Set your basic height with the pin, making sure the vise isn’t tightened, and lower the flat down until it just contacts the surface of the part, in about the middle of the center of the pin. That will level the part, and you can tighten the vise.
That is an awful tedious process for a radius that is probably just decorative. I would do three segments, 45°, 22.5°, and 67.5°, and then use a file or sandpaper. But I also have a couple of corner rounding cutters.
or just whip out the angle grinder......do a 45 on each corner then round off....but I agree as well.....this looks tedious for the results...not knocking his technique or anything since there is more than one way to skin a cat.
Could do it in ten minutes with a belt sander and radius gauge just as accurately
OK good idea so how about this make a tool with a 2 mm hole in it shaped to rest on the vice jaw top and also be trapped between the vice jaws with the part being cut. this tool would need to be fixed in position so as to not travel in the X axis but this way the pin location could be a fixed point that could be a removable pin that would stay in the part being machined so the part is stable in it's rotation the tool could have a small radius on it to be smaller than the smallest one you plan to cut
Nice! I'm going to use this!
why not just lay something round on your stock draw a circle around it and take the grinder to get most of the cut off and then go to the mill . I do this all the time and I find a grinder is a lot faster than the lave
Might just as well do it on the belt sander.
If you don't need any more precision than that, a cheap Chinese rotary table will save you a couple of hours work and give you a much nicer radius, even with no DRO, and you can use it over and over and over. Or you can easily build a quickie work holder that pivots about a vertical pin.
Yes, I have a rotary table. It's had a lot of use here.
a cute trick but extremely specific in requirements, plus i don't like leaving unnecessary features in a part
make a setup jig top and bottom plate with adjustable dowels that roll on vice jaws .. then it can be used again and again
to complicate its goin to take you all day to do one small job
Its good the attempt to help the community for no personal gain but this method really should not be taught you can simply lay it out and tilt it up a few times not hitting the line and then finish sand, grind file..
Dude great idea 😎
That goes to show that there is always a way lol
Nah, too much faffing.... grind up a flycutter, or scribe and work to the line.
Thumbs up, really neat work. On the down side, there was enough metal in that block to make four dozen Chinese toasters. What a waste. Maybe mail them what's left and they can still get 3.5 dozen toasters out of it.
Probably so. I have a whole big box of drops to mess with, and a couple pallets full outside. They accumulate over the years, and you recycle them for chinese toasters, or use them for miscellaneous projects like this. I recycle the mill and lathe shavings mainly.
Scribe a mark and use a belt sander is faster.
I agree, it is very time consuming this method and still you have to finish it by hand so might as well do it on a belt sander:-))
you reel need a Hurco your manul mill would be in the same place as mine in the corner this machines can be bought for little money they were mad in 1981 89 you can still buy all new parts for them Accurate Machine
Don't Hurco's use a proprietary programming language? I understand G and M codes didn't work with them.
@@ArnoldsDesign I think most people replace the original control with something modern - probably Mach or Linux CNC
@@gorak9000 I looked into Mach a few years ago. I just got a Newall DP700 recently b/c my old Sapphire died. It would be nice to use the linear scales and head to retrofit cnc controls rather than using rotary scales. It's still something I'd like to do.
wow, its like a pressure washer for your insides!!
why don't you just hold it against the cutter with your hand?
Probably because he likes to keep his fingers.
Nice Work!!!!
Thanks!
Really like this technique
I'll just buy a radius cutter lol
no buy a Hurco
Done with a file in 20 Minutes.
What if the steel is longer? The back end of the steel will hit the ground of the vise.
find a different trick.
@@mechanicallydisadvantaged1297 I genuinely need a different trick...
@@rholanddelamerced put it on its side and use a rotary table
@@mechanicallydisadvantaged1297 ok I need to save more money to buy a rotary table. It costs almost 380usd here in my place.
@@rholanddelamerced if you can trade time for money--- plunge dril a couple dozen points about your radius. very tedious but ive done that before
Great tip! Subbed!
Secret to everything in the universe: PATIENCE.
Well that works I guess, but I think I could set up my rotary table to do it faster.
is this mill powered by a Huey helicopter?!
you need a KMB 1 HURCO so simple
Gimicky to say the teast. Good enough if no tooling and being retired. But it works for what you will settle for.
I am to get an old Hurco easey to run
@@1racemate Do you own stock in Hurco or what?
Good idea for a retired chap who has nothing to do just to pass the time, come on use a belt sander it quicker!!!!
Sounds like a rebuid of youre spindle
The rotary seem a lot more simpler
If you've got a mill just use a rotary table, way quicker!
Set your tool gently onto a slip gauge of the correct radius on top of the moving jaw instead of faffing about clocking up the job.
By slip gauge, I assume you mean an old gauge block or gauge pin. Good idea. You probably should add the diameter of the pivot pin where it rests on the jaw too... Btw I don't really think the minute it took me to indicate this part though would really constitute "clocking up the job".
Clever, subscribed! If you want more subs, feel free to embed your video on our homemade tools forum; looks like you're one of us :-)
Its a shame that were not teaching this to our young.were relying on computers to much? Imagine electricity gone? In a big war? Steam engines and leather belts ran shops before electrics.were fucked in a real war.with anarcy? Old school machinist will live
What ever yiu do, dont do it like that.
Clever idea
Thanks
You may have a point there.
just do the radius with the readout on radius function
That's an idea, but I just got the new readout and haven't learned that yet.
Does the radius function work by cutting in one axis only and moving it over a small amount ?
@@martinfidel7086 I don't know. Dawid Vos would have to address that.
@@martinfidel7086 yes you just use the radius function.if you cut a xz plane radius you input al the radius info on readout.the readout will then give you the coordinates for x and z and you feed with y axis.its only point to point but you can cut very smooth radius by using a ballnose cutter.you can even use a bolthole pattern for an xy plane radius.
i can do this job when we have recession in country
Appreciate your time and effort to create this video. Nevertheless this has no practical use
It's quite practical if you need a radius on the corner of a small part. Do you have a better way to achieve the same result? (Without expensive specialty tools/attachments)
A 5 bugs file will do it less than 5 min
Nice trick, but meanwhile a lot of cheap DRO´s from China have a Function to cut whatever radius you want, in steppings you want with tool diameter you want, and inside or outside....but it seems your DRO has not this function....so, good job anyway !
I have a Newall Dro with that function. This is for those without one
Keep falling for China junk. Before long when they take away all the automatic stuff noone will know how to do it long hand. Surely you can see this right?
@@ArnoldsDesign thanks, im one without
THANK YOU.
I live in Karachi Pakistan I like your comments send 4 month ago
Mabina job ko rotate kra miling pr radus dal dunga
Subscribed because he says "thousandths" instead of fucking thou.....
Way too much work to cut a radius. Much easier to mount it to a rotary table. If you don't have a rotary table it would been too hard to make a jig to cut the radiuses using a lever with a pin that can pivot on rectangle scrap metal with a hole. You just move the lever around the pivot point to cut the radius.
Arnold once again proves that not all machinists are @zzholes.. even though as we can see in these comments - many of them are. Great video, THANK YOU!
This guy must be paid by the hour but would not work for me
Lol. What makes you so sure I'd want to work for you in the first place?
10 Jesus answered and said to him, “Are you the teacher of Israel, and do not know these things? 11 Most assuredly, I say to you, We speak what We know and testify what We have seen, and you do not receive Our witness. 12 If I have told you earthly things and you do not believe, how will you believe if I tell you heavenly things? 13 No one has ascended to heaven but He who came down from heaven, that is, the Son of Man who is in heaven. 14 And as Moses lifted up the serpent in the wilderness, even so must the Son of Man be lifted up, 15 that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have eternal life. 16 For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son, that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have everlasting life. 17 For God did not send His Son into the world to condemn the world, but that the world through Him might be saved.18 “He who believes in Him is not condemned; but he who does not believe is condemned already, because he has not believed in the name of the only begotten Son of God (The Great I AM, YHVH, El Shaddai, Adonai, God of Jacob, Isaac, and Abraham). John 3:10-18
Are you ret4rded? What part of "Secret Trick to Mill an Outside Radius" sounds biblical to you?
I'm sorry you spent your time making this video nobody found useful, including myself.
Got something to offer of your own other than criticism?
shazaam !
Dude... Your mill is screaming for attention.
My mill is fine. It's always sounded like that.
@@kesleycottrell1416 I changed the original belt about three years ago. The new one's in good shape. Sometimes if I don't use the mill for a while and leave it on a low speed ratio while shut off, the belt will take a set around the driver pulley's small radius and give a characteristic clunk for a while until it warms up. It's always done that. I try to remember to turn up the ratio before shutting down to prevent that, but I forget sometimes.
waffle
A half-way hack from someone who's mill is SCREAMING for maintenance (and oil)...thanks, but I pass...you've left a divot in the part at the radial center mark, you are 'swinging freehand through a curve' (big NO-NO for accuracy), and you are overlooking basic tools (such as indexing heads, ornamental mill table jigs, etc.) to accomplish what you are trying to describe here...
My mill is maintained just fine. It has always sounded like that. I've also had it for 20 years and not one drill hole or end mill mark on the table or vice. That's something you will likely never see on a machine that age.
Show us how you do it, I like seeing lots of different ways of cracking the same nut, but I only tend to criticise if I've got something better to offer.
Make it out of thicker steel and then machine the "divots" off :) as for the lack of maintenance these machines have a belt driven gearbox and always make that noise
@@ArnoldsDesign I have a KRV3000 and it sounds just like yours, I think what people are missing here, is that to do this without CNC or rotary table or dividing head etc is not easy ! This gives people a chance to make more parts for themselves, personally I use mitee bites and a CNC mill but then I have my own factory
@@martinfidel7086 Exactly. Without a cnc or setting up a rotary table, outside radii are a pain. I'm not familiar with the KRV3000, but it might have a similar head. Mine's an Acer built in 97, and it's been rock solid. I'm not familiar with Mitee Bite work holding system. I just looked it up. Looks interesting. What does your factory produce?
whats it with all american tubers... first its my drill, my this my that my what what... we know its yours. second thing... whats with you all get your project metal out of the scrap??? is it a fashion statement? you all sound exactly the same... oh wait there's one more... future project... we dont really want to know who it belongs to or where you scratched it out or what upcoming job you have
having a bad day Steven?
Imagine what living with you would be like.... ? Do you have friends?