I've recapped a few of these. Fun job! :) I've managed to achieve it without removing the drive board completely which saves some time. But you had some serious corrosion there. Nice job cleaning it up.
I have two and noticed there's green fuzz growing on resistor leads near the leaking caps. I replaced the resistors at the same time. I also saw corrosion on the traces and used a fiberglass pen to hopefully remove any nasty chemicals and soldered on top of the exposed copper. I hope that should keep the museum pieces going for a little while more.
9:49 I'd replace the power connector as a matter of course. The filter caps go bad I think .. the one fitted in my 1571 was similar and during testing after aquisition I discovered by accident that the IEC plug was getting *HOT* !! I replaced it with a barebones one (no filter caps) from a scrap PC PSU. Seems to work fine.
Good content, but if I can make a suggestion - the music is way too loud. If I turn it down to a reasonable level, then I can barely hear your commentary between the music. Frankly I would prefer no music.
I've dropped the music another 3db in part 2. I think the track I used in part 1 was louder than usual and I didn't compensate for that (although it seemed okay on the VU meters).
There's no spec anywhere online (that I've found) for the 5V supply, and I haven't measured it in operation. The original power supply uses a 3052V regulator, which supplies 5 volts at 2 Amps. An RD35A would be ok at 5V but only supplies 1A at 12V (the service manual calls for 1.2A max for 12V, presumably on spin-up. The original 3122V regulator also supplies 2A). An RD-50A supplies 6A and 2A. I used an RD-65A which is overkill (6A & 3A), but you've kinda got to use what you can get these days.
Got one of these in mint condition along with several C64's and Amigas. I ran a BBS back in the 80's and always took great care of my hardware. In 1990 everything got packed up in bubble wrap, and taken to a basement by the "men in black". ;) That "basement" was at the bottom of the World Trade Center. Hah! Long story, but got it all back in 2000 a year before the towers got attacked and demolished on 9/11.
I would say either the main CPU or ROM is faulty, since the default state of the red LED is on (or red rather than green), and one of the first things the CPU does is to turn it off.
@@TimsRetroCorner Thank you very much. I will try. I have a problem that the drive reads perfectly, loads the program, and I can save it. However, when I want formatted, the motor only rotates but does not move. Stepper motor is also good. Speed is good. The head can be adjusted using the stepper motor screw. How do I know where to set it? Or should I try until the upgrade starts? The motor does not step when formatting. The head goes back, there is a buzzing sound. But the motor just spins and doesn't start. Thank you for help
@@Barni1980 OK, that's a totally different problem. When formatting a disk, the drive moves the heads to track 0, checks the speed (there is a sensor for that), then it writes the first track to side 0, reads it back, writes the first track to side 1, reads it back. Any one of those actions could fail. The first thing you should do is query the drive error channel to get the error report. This will give you a clue as to what went wrong. In BASIC 4 the command is PRINT DS$ In BASIC 2 the command is OPEN 15,8,15: INPUT#15, E, E$, T, S: CLOSE 15: PRINT E;E$;T;S Once you know what the error is, you can decide what to do next.
@@TimsRetroCorner Thank you again! First issue was CPU problem.. I will try this. I have three SFD-1001 but I compare with the good unit. I will change all component now.
@@TimsRetroCornerThank you. When I typing Open 15,8,15 etc.. My error is : File Open Error What does this mean and where should I look for the error? Thanks.
5:00 - What a beast that is!
Excellent Video! You could call that drive the Boomerang Drive!
I've recapped a few of these. Fun job! :) I've managed to achieve it without removing the drive board completely which saves some time. But you had some serious corrosion there. Nice job cleaning it up.
After taking it out a bunch of times, I did figure out how to access it without taking it right out, lol
I have two and noticed there's green fuzz growing on resistor leads near the leaking caps. I replaced the resistors at the same time. I also saw corrosion on the traces and used a fiberglass pen to hopefully remove any nasty chemicals and soldered on top of the exposed copper. I hope that should keep the museum pieces going for a little while more.
9:49 I'd replace the power connector as a matter of course. The filter caps go bad I think .. the one fitted in my 1571 was similar and during testing after aquisition I discovered by accident that the IEC plug was getting *HOT* !!
I replaced it with a barebones one (no filter caps) from a scrap PC PSU. Seems to work fine.
Yep, the dreaded RIFAs. Definitely don't want them going off!
Good job. Commodore Amiga for ever 😎😎😎
Unfortunately this seems to be the case
Good content, but if I can make a suggestion - the music is way too loud. If I turn it down to a reasonable level, then I can barely hear your commentary between the music. Frankly I would prefer no music.
Ok, thanks for the feedback.
I mix voice at -6db and music at -12db, if I'm going to talk over the music then mix it at -24db or less.
I've dropped the music another 3db in part 2. I think the track I used in part 1 was louder than usual and I didn't compensate for that (although it seemed okay on the VU meters).
@@TimsRetroCorner Is this the drive you have had out in the Sun? It looks like it needs it.
Yep. That wasn't 100% successful though - it got some streaking. I obviously need to improve the technique!
That's detailed work!
whats the current draw at 5v ? have one of these and i am good on the 12v but worried on 5v and am changing transformer to switching supply
There's no spec anywhere online (that I've found) for the 5V supply, and I haven't measured it in operation. The original power supply uses a 3052V regulator, which supplies 5 volts at 2 Amps. An RD35A would be ok at 5V but only supplies 1A at 12V (the service manual calls for 1.2A max for 12V, presumably on spin-up. The original 3122V regulator also supplies 2A). An RD-50A supplies 6A and 2A. I used an RD-65A which is overkill (6A & 3A), but you've kinda got to use what you can get these days.
@@TimsRetroCorner hi thanks for that pretty sure i will run my multimeter through the 5v rail and measure the amps that way i might report back too!
Got one of these in mint condition along with several C64's and Amigas. I ran a BBS back in the 80's and always took great care of my hardware. In 1990 everything got packed up in bubble wrap, and taken to a basement by the "men in black". ;) That "basement" was at the bottom of the World Trade Center. Hah! Long story, but got it all back in 2000 a year before the towers got attacked and demolished on 9/11.
I ran mine on my 64 bbs with the adapter back in the day. Color64BBS
Hello! If the red LED lights up continuously, which component indicates a fault?
I would say either the main CPU or ROM is faulty, since the default state of the red LED is on (or red rather than green), and one of the first things the CPU does is to turn it off.
@@TimsRetroCorner Thank you very much. I will try. I have a problem that the drive reads perfectly, loads the program, and I can save it. However, when I want formatted, the motor only rotates but does not move. Stepper motor is also good. Speed is good. The head can be adjusted using the stepper motor screw. How do I know where to set it? Or should I try until the upgrade starts? The motor does not step when formatting. The head goes back, there is a buzzing sound. But the motor just spins and doesn't start. Thank you for help
@@Barni1980 OK, that's a totally different problem. When formatting a disk, the drive moves the heads to track 0, checks the speed (there is a sensor for that), then it writes the first track to side 0, reads it back, writes the first track to side 1, reads it back. Any one of those actions could fail.
The first thing you should do is query the drive error channel to get the error report. This will give you a clue as to what went wrong.
In BASIC 4 the command is PRINT DS$
In BASIC 2 the command is OPEN 15,8,15: INPUT#15, E, E$, T, S: CLOSE 15: PRINT E;E$;T;S
Once you know what the error is, you can decide what to do next.
@@TimsRetroCorner Thank you again! First issue was CPU problem.. I will try this. I have three SFD-1001 but I compare with the good unit. I will change all component now.
@@TimsRetroCornerThank you. When I typing Open 15,8,15 etc.. My error is : File Open Error
What does this mean and where should I look for the error? Thanks.
Like number 39!
DOOD!