Hi there, Thank you so much got putting together this guide. I'd been seeing multiple guides and some professional came over my basement to see what'd be the best way for damproofing it. My question is, is it required any specific certification in order to damproofing (without channels and pump) and space with a membrane in order to comply with building regulations or us this something anybody could potentially do and still meet the building regulations? Many Thanks, Juan
just wondering...whats the plugs you're using here? The ones I've found don't have the rubber grommet. Also, if I were fitting this to a chimney breast, would I lay it in vertical stripes with overlap, sealing the joins or would I lay it horizontally making sure the lower layer is over the bottom lip of the higher up membrane?
If I used this membrane in a basement under the street - I.e. attached directly on brickwork/stone. Is there a method to hang a boiler on it? If so how
What about drilling holes in the walls at a later stage, say, to put up shelves. What are the implications or potential problems that might arise there?
that system will always have a metal stud wall/dry lining in front of it so if shelves were needed down the line you would likey have to put a bridge in the metal stud to hold the shelf ,
What about build up of moisture behind that it will run down to inner floor level ... sump pump passive removal air circulation space etc ... not happy you did the job ... Also when fixing any sheet tanking or boards one starts in the middle in both directions to remove bagging and stretching which in this you’ve got tons of ???
He didn't mention a sump and pump, but that doesn't mean the video is a load of bollocks... it just means he didn't mention it. Most cavity drain membrane systems are specified with a sump and pump, of course, to catch the water...
He didn't mention a sump and pump, but that doesn't mean the video is a load of bollocks... it just means he didn't mention it. Most cavity drain membrane systems are specified with a sump and pump, of course, to catch the water...
I'm researching basement waterproofing and I'm puzzled. All the manufacturers/suppliers of dimpled membrane advise drilling fixing holes through one of the dimples...so why do you drill any old where? I appreciate that wall membranes have typically an 8mm offstand which will flatten locally anyway (under such a clout) but surely siting fixing holes at 'cruciform' positions (i.e. between dimples) will cause unnecessary distortion and less effective sealing?
The plugs have watertight seals, or sealing ropes applied to their heads, and water follows the path of least resistance, and gravity naturally takes it downward via the air and water gap the dimples create, to a drain point,and are they are not so much "smashed" in to position, but as per the video, rubber mallets are used, so as not to shatter them too.
Everything in this video is prison .. the. Tape will never seal them holes in membrane .... the tape is vapour tight at max NOT water proof but you can follow this guide and find out once the basement “tanking” is done walls are plastered painted and clients move in then ALL basement is destroyed due to incorrect application
It appears that you do not fully understand negative side waterproofing, torch on, in a basement not only poses HSE issues, it is not a recognised method within BS;8102,2009, so would not be insurable, and would probably require loading too, these membranes are not just plastic either, they are usually HDPE, some are virgin materials, the better ones are not, but both are recyclable, and if you saw the huge amount of technology and the expensive rolling and pressing machines that manufacture these membranes you may understand what great products they are, yes there are some "terrible" ones out there, but fully qualified and trained companies wouldn't touch them with a barge pole, but you can't always account for cheapskates.
Just a great job mate very well done 👍 cheers
Dont forget sumps and pumps of a type C Cavity drainage system. Great video by the Guru...
Very helpful thank you
Thank you for the reply
Al-Amin Uddin no problem. If you need any materials we use www.heyen.co.uk and are approved installers.
Hi there,
Thank you so much got putting together this guide.
I'd been seeing multiple guides and some professional came over my basement to see what'd be the best way for damproofing it.
My question is, is it required any specific certification in order to damproofing (without channels and pump) and space with a membrane in order to comply with building regulations or us this something anybody could potentially do and still meet the building regulations?
Many Thanks,
Juan
does the tanking go below the floor or do you allow water to travel down and onto the floor
just wondering...whats the plugs you're using here?
The ones I've found don't have the rubber grommet.
Also, if I were fitting this to a chimney breast, would I lay it in vertical stripes with overlap, sealing the joins or would I lay it horizontally making sure the lower layer is over the bottom lip of the higher up membrane?
How do you do the floor when you need o overlap the floor and walls?
If I used this membrane in a basement under the street - I.e. attached directly on brickwork/stone. Is there a method to hang a boiler on it? If so how
What about drilling holes in the walls at a later stage, say, to put up shelves.
What are the implications or potential problems that might arise there?
that system will always have a metal stud wall/dry lining in front of it so if shelves were needed down the line you would likey have to put a bridge in the metal stud to hold the shelf ,
Where do you took the membrane sheeting at the top of the wall to creat the air tight seal?
Hi Jamie, check my video out it my be helpful for your question
@@joedavis1427 why u turned comments of an your video mate people should be able share there opinions etc
can i use this on a first floor flat ?
What about build up of moisture behind that it will run down to inner floor level ... sump pump passive removal air circulation space etc ... not happy you did the job ... Also when fixing any sheet tanking or boards one starts in the middle in both directions to remove bagging and stretching which in this you’ve got tons of ???
Which brand and product is this ? I’m trying to source some for a basement I am doing
Guru Mike - how do you remove the mould before you begin tanking?
Any help you may need, check my video out
What about the floor if you have water coming up through there when the water table rises? Is that stuff for walls only?
You make a very good point. This video is basically a load of bollocks.
I think they should go down to a weeping tile system which feeds to a sump, no?
He didn't mention a sump and pump, but that doesn't mean the video is a load of bollocks... it just means he didn't mention it. Most cavity drain membrane systems are specified with a sump and pump, of course, to catch the water...
He didn't mention a sump and pump, but that doesn't mean the video is a load of bollocks... it just means he didn't mention it. Most cavity drain membrane systems are specified with a sump and pump, of course, to catch the water...
@@GRPLiningServices Why are you condemning the video? The objective is clearly stated...Tanking the WALLS !!!
How much does it typically cost to tank a basement?
Manufacturer of a similar product told me 15 fixings per square meter.
Can you drill through the wall safely to say have virgin media installed or will that damage the system
Neighbours house is a about meter higher than my terraced house damp issues false wall in living room dining room.
I'm researching basement waterproofing and I'm puzzled. All the manufacturers/suppliers of dimpled membrane advise drilling fixing holes through one of the dimples...so why do you drill any old where? I appreciate that wall membranes have typically an 8mm offstand which will flatten locally anyway (under such a clout) but surely siting fixing holes at 'cruciform' positions (i.e. between dimples) will cause unnecessary distortion and less effective sealing?
I can help answer mate
@@joedavis1427 Er, okay...fire away! :-)
Surely the minute you drill a hole in that membrane and then smash the plug in with a mallet you're risking a fracture in the waterproofing?
The plugs have watertight seals, or sealing ropes applied to their heads, and water follows the path of least resistance, and gravity naturally takes it downward via the air and water gap the dimples create, to a drain point,and are they are not so much "smashed" in to position, but as per the video, rubber mallets are used, so as not to shatter them too.
Can you dot and dab on top of the tanking membrane?
Al-Amin Uddin not this particular one but you can get a version which has a mesh on ready to take bonding plaster or dot and dab adhesive.
(0:29) - That's a mallet, not a hammer.
Everything in this video is prison .. the. Tape will never seal them holes in membrane .... the tape is vapour tight at max NOT water proof but you can follow this guide and find out once the basement “tanking” is done walls are plastered painted and clients move in then ALL basement is destroyed due to incorrect application
looks like a terrible product. just plastic?? not even adhered to the block. I would use torch on over that anyday
It appears that you do not fully understand negative side waterproofing, torch on, in a basement not only poses HSE issues, it is not a recognised method within BS;8102,2009, so would not be insurable, and would probably require loading too, these membranes are not just plastic either, they are usually HDPE, some are virgin materials, the better ones are not, but both are recyclable, and if you saw the huge amount of technology and the expensive rolling and pressing machines that manufacture these membranes you may understand what great products they are, yes there are some "terrible" ones out there, but fully qualified and trained companies wouldn't touch them with a barge pole, but you can't always account for cheapskates.