My understanding is the if there is no food for moulds then it will not grow, therefore if all that is behind the membrane is brick, cement and concrete etc it should be OK. I once raised this issue with the manufacturer and was given this answer although of course this is somewhat biased!
I can't see how water running behind the membrane gets into that plastic gully but there again I know sweet Fanny Adams re tanking. Just an admirer of Roger's skills and endurance.
Water would fill up behind the gulley, then enter through holes at the back of the gulley and work it's way to the sump or drain. The floors damp proof membrane sits over the gulley and ordinarily a floor screed would go over the membrane and gulley. Therefore water that ingresses behind the walls or from below ground, works its way to the gulley and then away.
@@holdfast7657 thanks for this. Where does the water drain away to? I have a tiny basement that is just standing height. Property was built on chalk. There’s never been any flooding but it’s damp down there. Where would the builders run the drainage gulleys to if it’s all underground? Thanks!
Cracking video. I’ve got to do a basement in a shop, not far from a river! How did you seal the electrical outlets without penetrating the membrane, did you double board?
I would do this with my basement but I'm concerned about mold growth behind the plastic and wall. I do have a good amount of water seeping through the walls all year round to my somp pump
Really great vid. I thought the system was great. I’ve had damp issues before, water running down the walls and I’ve found SBR mixed 50/50 with cement X 2 coats has done the trick. Loves me SBR. This system looks brilliant.
Love yur videos. I learn so much from each one. I have a 108 year old house that I want to damp proof in Portugal. The basement is not below ground and there is no floor in the basement yet. I am worried about rising damp . Would a method like this one work? or is it overkill? The basement(first floor) is at outside ground level and built with stone (50cm thick). Can you suggest something. Or direct me to one of your previous videos which could help. We have considered french drains outside. And then pouring a cement floor with gravel underneath and a moisture barrier. How high should the moisture barrier go up the wall? Thanks for any guidance you can provide.
Great article. We've got a similar room below ground like this. Its a bit damp a d want to tank it and make it more habitable. I'll have a look at this system looks just the ticket. Only issue is the stone flags on the stairs leading down to the room as they get very damp. Thinking to remove these tank to the side of the steps, cut back the flags slightly and refit. Not sure what I'll find beneath the flags though!
Hi Roger, did you plaster over the membrane, as in, does plaster it stick to the membrane, and also how much thickness of plaster. / Is there a difference if you put the same membrane with insulated plasterboard over it, then plaster that. / My area is a simple 4m x 2.5m x 4m high extension in a back garden that is now a bedroom / You got a great channel with great content
One question- the wall will still leak since water from outside is trying to get in especially of the water table is high but it won’t be seen because of the membrane absorbing/ covering up. So, will mold grow between the membrane and the wall?
When you dot and dab do you put your dabs onto the wall rather thean on the plasterboard and over the tops of the plugs ? These will be the most rigid points rather than elsewhere on the plastic sheeting which may have some movement away from the wall.
Normally the sparks clip their cables to the walls and then we come along and board over them and the metal back boxes. My question is, what did you do to hold the cables in place? I’m guessing you couldn’t clip them to the tanking membrane as it would compromise the system. Did you hold them in place with some duct tape and use drywall socket back plates?
I've just had a damp survey (pre-buy) and they're wanting to install drainage membrane into ground floor living room. Ive got rising damp, some areas of penetrative. I don't thinking that's from bridging, as it should be solid walls. late 19th century terrace, continous roofs - not stepped. Homebuyers survey found no evidence of a DPC. i don't know if there is none or if the ground has been made too high, and all damp issues are on the side of the building that's uphill, so breached DPC seems like the issue right? But a lot of penetrative damp around chimney downstairs and up. Can that be coming down from top? Now been quoted over £4K for chemical injection and membrane. Haven't specified if pump or anything ut I'd really prefer to deal with the issue rather than just drain water away. it's not an underground basement.
Love it. Thanks Roger. I’m thinking of doing the same in a lean to ‘room’ we have, and you’ve inspired me! Great video as always. Hope you’re well mate 👍
I would have lost my bottle direct plastering it too. 20 years ago, My old boss and I had to upholster the walls in some well to do clients basment cinema. Same kind of system. we where not allowed to peirce the plaster anymore than about 15mm. Must of been a 25 x 10 mt room. I had to make special extra wide fabric battens, we stuck it on and must of put half a million 15mm brad nails in them battens to take the shear forces of streching 18 widths of heavy fabric over 25 mts. Was a great job though. when we started, the nail guns where so loud. When we where puting the last fabric up at the end, the nail guns sounded like mouse farts :D. Would have been easier if they dot and dabbed 1/2" ply
Great video, thanks. On a floor of self levelling compound(already set) how could I create a low step (8cm) topped of with a tile? For example bricks but what adhesive or mortar to use? Thanks Roger
th-cam.com/play/PLvRh7uimDQfdrjXXH7LiiPLj-B_5xVm4E.html It is very easy to search for any videos by typing in a word or two on the search bar which is on the home page.
The walls in my cellar are only wet to the touch on the gable end side of the cellar(end terrace) would installing this just on that wall be sufficient or do you need to do all 4 sides. Also what would then happen to the water that currently seeps through, with this membrane would it prevent the water coming in on the one hand but then would the bricks not be continually wet?
Hey Roger, This system seems a great work around a difficult problem. My concern is that moisture in the wall albeit running in to drain, still leaves a wet tosh wall without air or light the two deadly sins for dry rot! I must me missing something but I just get on board with this issue. Any thoughts. Also, I’m about to make ‘quick lime’ paint with Tallow for the dampness on my basement walls, would you have considered a lime mortar for your small room? All the very best to you and your team! Peter Glasgow U.K.
If there is no timber in contact with the dampness then the dreaded dry rot will not develop. There is actually some air movement in the drained cavity albeit not much. Also it appears this wall has already be sealed with water resistant render etc and, if this is the case, the situation should not worsen. Also if the moisture can freely evaporate externally it will take the least line of resistance to leave the wall. Nonetheless sealing cellar/basement walls and removing underground ventilation can push moisture further up and this should therefore be considered at the design stage. Obviously if an effective DPC was/is installed this should mitigate this potential. Worth checking the ground floor joist ends at some point.
@skillbuilder I may need to call you up to look at my basement. It spans through the whole basement of the house. I have ideas, depending on costs. It wiping make an amazing space for privacy
Can I ask why you didn’t run the floor polythene over the drain and up the wall then use tape to seal it to the tanking? Is that ok to do it the way Iv just said? Will be doing mine soon and I have a lot of water coming in
There is hardly any water at all in this cellar and the polythene was laid long before the wall tanking was added so it was just run over the drain. If you want to do it properly then do it as you describe.
The adhesive is on and around the plugs so I think it is fine. The weight is downwards and the tops of the boards are scrim jointed to the ceiling so I think it will be fine
@skillbuilder I’m hoping I could get some advice please. I’m having garden office installed and I didn’t see the guys who did the concrete base use any DPM. The garden office is made of wood with wooden flooring. It will have insulation though. Do you see me getting any damp problems?
I did a job using this technique 5 years ago. No one single problem to date. You really have to take your time and get it bang on though. It’s not cheap.
Looks like your DPM is at the same level as the underside of the drainage. If so, any water in the drainage will breach the DPM. The system you are using can be very effective, but you have not installed it very well at all. For those reading, the floor membrane must be above the top of the drainage channel so that it cannot be breached by water in the channel.
It will not be breached. This installation does not have a drained floor. It is only a very small amount of water entering the channel. I appreciate your point because you are thinking of a drained floor membrane but this is not the only option.
Great demonstration video. I did cringe when I noticed you not wearing safty specs when plastering the lid. I've got plaster in my eyes in the past it's horrendous.
no, if you put the lip behind the membrane you will get water on top of the perimeter drain. The membrane goes behind and the water trickles into the drain and runs away. There are holes in the side of the perimeter drain to take the build up of moisture.
Novice question: Why polystyrene? I have heard that it absorbs moisture and that styrofoam would be better. Unfortunately, I found this out from a non-trade source and wanted to clarify.
It it true to say that a closed cell extruded polystyrene will hold back moisture but the only 25mm thick board I could get hold of was this and it is behind the membrane. The wall above that lip is cavity so it is bone dry hence the recessed sockets at that height
So you think I could use this on an under pavement bunker roof? Have no plans to plaster afterwards. Just want the water to stop dripping on the washing machine and freezer!
Paul M The sockets are above ground in the cavity wall above the damp so there is no problem. If they had been lower they would have breached the membrane. The alternative would have been surface run conduit and surface mounted sockets
i have been using old royd for years .... as far I'm aware is one of the best systems out there. but like anything else a system is only good as the person installing.
Do you have a link to the video you mention here? th-cam.com/video/PLuegyP4KIo/w-d-xo.html i had a look though the play list but i cant seem to find it? thanks
The whole point of this system is to allow water from the wall to drain away. You could call that breathing or weeping, the point is that it keeps the moisture out of the room.
@@SkillBuilder Yes it makes sense but the vapour barrier only masks it..? My cellar weeps rain water only at the very bottom of the one wall south West facing during heavy rain. No leaky gutters, drains etc.
I don't understand where the vapour barrier is. The membrane is studded to allow the water to trickle down the back. If you had a vapour permeable membrane you would simply be allowing the moisture from the walls to evaporate into the room. If you do that you might as well just accept a damp cellar as a way of life.
@@SkillBuilder Thanks Yes.... Can i send you an email of the issue... It's old and not common...? 1850 cellar! Loads of rain but random water below knee level. Not terrible but noticeable.
*Watch this before waterproofing your basement* : th-cam.com/video/KKHQn82qhRM/w-d-xo.html
Builders like you are worth their weight in gold. I've learned so much from this channel, great content.
Glad you like them!
The only one I watch
Good explanation - others talk a lot of crap for ten minutes before they even start - you get to it and everything you say makes sense - thank you.
My understanding is the if there is no food for moulds then it will not grow, therefore if all that is behind the membrane is brick, cement and concrete etc it should be OK. I once raised this issue with the manufacturer and was given this answer although of course this is somewhat biased!
Great to see a really conscientious tradesman, a rarity.
I can't see how water running behind the membrane gets into that plastic gully but there again I know sweet Fanny Adams re tanking. Just an admirer of Roger's skills and endurance.
Water would fill up behind the gulley, then enter through holes at the back of the gulley and work it's way to the sump or drain. The floors damp proof membrane sits over the gulley and ordinarily a floor screed would go over the membrane and gulley. Therefore water that ingresses behind the walls or from below ground, works its way to the gulley and then away.
Hold Fast. You said it all thanks!
It's not tanking. Tanking is a barrier that holds water back. This is cavity drain membrane.
@@holdfast7657 thanks for this. Where does the water drain away to? I have a tiny basement that is just standing height. Property was built on chalk. There’s never been any flooding but it’s damp down there. Where would the builders run the drainage gulleys to if it’s all underground? Thanks!
@@chrisg3726 it would run into a sump pump that would then pump the water to a drain etc.
Just stumbled on your channel as my son has just bought a house with a damp cellar.Loving this 👌
Welcome aboard!
Damp or wet?
I used to work for a preservation company which also specialist basement waterproofing as we either used Delta membrane or Newton which is good to use
Cracking video. I’ve got to do a basement in a shop, not far from a river!
How did you seal the electrical outlets without penetrating the membrane, did you double board?
I would do this with my basement but I'm concerned about mold growth behind the plastic and wall. I do have a good amount of water seeping through the walls all year round to my somp pump
0
Really great vid. I thought the system was great.
I’ve had damp issues before, water running down the walls and I’ve found SBR mixed 50/50 with cement X 2 coats has done the trick. Loves me SBR. This system looks brilliant.
I have also used an SBR slurry at times. To be honest it probably would have done the trick here
@@SkillBuilder The vid would have been rubbish though 😄
waterproofing should start on the exterior of the foundation or basement wall
Love yur videos. I learn so much from each one. I have a 108 year old house that I want to damp proof in Portugal. The basement is not below ground and there is no floor in the basement yet. I am worried about rising damp . Would a method like this one work? or is it overkill? The basement(first floor) is at outside ground level and built with stone (50cm thick). Can you suggest something. Or direct me to one of your previous videos which could help. We have considered french drains outside. And then pouring a cement floor with gravel underneath and a moisture barrier. How high should the moisture barrier go up the wall? Thanks for any guidance you can provide.
10mm multi plugs for basment jobs,
Good job & tidy work impressive multiskills
I would love to work with this guy
Great article. We've got a similar room below ground like this. Its a bit damp a d want to tank it and make it more habitable. I'll have a look at this system looks just the ticket.
Only issue is the stone flags on the stairs leading down to the room as they get very damp. Thinking to remove these tank to the side of the steps, cut back the flags slightly and refit. Not sure what I'll find beneath the flags though!
That is what I would do. You can reset the flags on an SBR slurry
Subbed,a bloke who knows his onions,thanks
Great job again !
Friking hard worker you are.
Hi Roger, did you plaster over the membrane, as in, does plaster it stick to the membrane, and also how much thickness of plaster. / Is there a difference if you put the same membrane with insulated plasterboard over it, then plaster that. / My area is a simple 4m x 2.5m x 4m high extension in a back garden that is now a bedroom / You got a great channel with great content
One question- the wall will still leak since water from outside is trying to get in especially of the water table is high but it won’t be seen because of the membrane absorbing/ covering up. So, will mold grow between the membrane and the wall?
When you dot and dab do you put your dabs onto the wall rather thean on the plasterboard and over the tops of the plugs ? These will be the most rigid points rather than elsewhere on the plastic sheeting which may have some movement away from the wall.
I put them on the wall and, yes you can put them on the plugs to make a nice solid fixing.
@@SkillBuilder Cheers. Love watching your videos !
nice work Roger - Those sockets in the wall - surely they have compromised your water barrier with their back boxes?
Usually there's an edge sealant that you use I think to re seal any gaps
They’re above ground (I think).
They would have but that bit is above ground and there is a cavity wall there.There is no trace of damp there so we went for it
Wanting sockets probably helped with the dot and dab decision too
@@andycrask3531 yah, cause the board sits proud of the wall behind and you could run the wires this side of the membrane.
What a great video ! Has made job look so easy.
Great video Roger, Hi from Australia
Hello there! Thanks for the comment Phil
Don't think you have rising damp in Aus ? The water goes the other way ??
Normally the sparks clip their cables to the walls and then we come along and board over them and the metal back boxes. My question is, what did you do to hold the cables in place? I’m guessing you couldn’t clip them to the tanking membrane as it would compromise the system. Did you hold them in place with some duct tape and use drywall socket back plates?
I've just had a damp survey (pre-buy) and they're wanting to install drainage membrane into ground floor living room. Ive got rising damp, some areas of penetrative. I don't thinking that's from bridging, as it should be solid walls. late 19th century terrace, continous roofs - not stepped. Homebuyers survey found no evidence of a DPC. i don't know if there is none or if the ground has been made too high, and all damp issues are on the side of the building that's uphill, so breached DPC seems like the issue right? But a lot of penetrative damp around chimney downstairs and up. Can that be coming down from top? Now been quoted over £4K for chemical injection and membrane. Haven't specified if pump or anything ut I'd really prefer to deal with the issue rather than just drain water away. it's not an underground basement.
Love it. Thanks Roger. I’m thinking of doing the same in a lean to ‘room’ we have, and you’ve inspired me! Great video as always. Hope you’re well mate 👍
Go for it! I am very well thanks. still working.
Great vid mate..
I would have lost my bottle direct plastering it too. 20 years ago, My old boss and I had to upholster the walls in some well to do clients basment cinema. Same kind of system. we where not allowed to peirce the plaster anymore than about 15mm. Must of been a 25 x 10 mt room. I had to make special extra wide fabric battens, we stuck it on and must of put half a million 15mm brad nails in them battens to take the shear forces of streching 18 widths of heavy fabric over 25 mts. Was a great job though. when we started, the nail guns where so loud. When we where puting the last fabric up at the end, the nail guns sounded like mouse farts :D. Would have been easier if they dot and dabbed 1/2" ply
Great video, thanks. On a floor of self levelling compound(already set) how could I create a low step (8cm) topped of with a tile? For example bricks but what adhesive or mortar to use? Thanks Roger
I would cast it with concrete and face it with tile
fantastic vid and info SB
Have you ever used,:thoraseal,,whats ur opinion on it mg
Have you got any videos posted from when you built the extension?
th-cam.com/play/PLvRh7uimDQfdrjXXH7LiiPLj-B_5xVm4E.html
It is very easy to search for any videos by typing in a word or two on the search bar which is on the home page.
Hi Roger could you post a link to the video were you built the cellar please, Many Thanks
I need a system like this in melbourne Australia, any idea how I can get it?
The walls in my cellar are only wet to the touch on the gable end side of the cellar(end terrace) would installing this just on that wall be sufficient or do you need to do all 4 sides. Also what would then happen to the water that currently seeps through, with this membrane would it prevent the water coming in on the one hand but then would the bricks not be continually wet?
Great channel as always. How about just hitting the mortar joints? Bit softer and maybe a more consistent fix, Maybe!
I don't like hitting the mortar joints because that is where the leak will be.
That nice Mr Newton, inventing gravity for us. Top man 😂😂😂
A genius but really down to earth.
Does the top of the membrane get sealed at all? Damp air movement et. al.
Thinking how to finish my cellar atm ...
Hey Roger,
This system seems a great work around a difficult problem. My concern is that moisture in the wall albeit running in to drain, still leaves a wet tosh wall without air or light the two deadly sins for dry rot! I must me missing something but I just get on board with this issue. Any thoughts.
Also, I’m about to make ‘quick lime’ paint with Tallow for the dampness on my basement walls, would you have considered a lime mortar for your small room?
All the very best to you and your team!
Peter Glasgow U.K.
If there is no timber in contact with the dampness then the dreaded dry rot will not develop. There is actually some air movement in the drained cavity albeit not much. Also it appears this wall has already be sealed with water resistant render etc and, if this is the case, the situation should not worsen. Also if the moisture can freely evaporate externally it will take the least line of resistance to leave the wall. Nonetheless sealing cellar/basement walls and removing underground ventilation can push moisture further up and this should therefore be considered at the design stage. Obviously if an effective DPC was/is installed this should mitigate this potential. Worth checking the ground floor joist ends at some point.
Can you do it for my building please
@skillbuilder I may need to call you up to look at my basement. It spans through the whole basement of the house. I have ideas, depending on costs. It wiping make an amazing space for privacy
Can I ask why you didn’t run the floor polythene over the drain and up the wall then use tape to seal it to the tanking? Is that ok to do it the way Iv just said? Will be doing mine soon and I have a lot of water coming in
There is hardly any water at all in this cellar and the polythene was laid long before the wall tanking was added so it was just run over the drain.
If you want to do it properly then do it as you describe.
You dot and dab onto the membrane? Would this possibly pull the membrane away from the wall?
The adhesive is on and around the plugs so I think it is fine. The weight is downwards and the tops of the boards are scrim jointed to the ceiling so I think it will be fine
@skillbuilder I’m hoping I could get some advice please. I’m having garden office installed and I didn’t see the guys who did the concrete base use any DPM.
The garden office is made of wood with wooden flooring. It will have insulation though. Do you see me getting any damp problems?
It is always good to have a damp membrane but, provided you have some air under that floor you should be fine.
I need to re plaster two walls in my basement. If I’ve got carpet already down will it be ok ??
I would never put a carpet in a basement
I have always wondered how strong the plater board would be on the plastic membranes, how long do you think the wall will stay solid till Roger?
I did a job using this technique 5 years ago. No one single problem to date. You really have to take your time and get it bang on though. It’s not cheap.
I think it will be good until one of the kids hits it at speed, then it might crack slightly on the scrim joint but it feels fine
Good
Good old Sir Issac Newton. Thank goodness he discovered gravity or where would we be. Floating about I suppose
Another British invention that saved the world
Looks like your DPM is at the same level as the underside of the drainage. If so, any water in the drainage will breach the DPM. The system you are using can be very effective, but you have not installed it very well at all. For those reading, the floor membrane must be above the top of the drainage channel so that it cannot be breached by water in the channel.
It will not be breached. This installation does not have a drained floor. It is only a very small amount of water entering the channel. I appreciate your point because you are thinking of a drained floor membrane but this is not the only option.
Any idea where I can get a drain like that in Australia?
Better to do this on the outside to prevent water from making it through the wall in the first place.
Nice job Roger. You and others in the UK have talk about dot and dab. I'm in the US and it's not a term we use. What is it?
Putting drywall on with adhesive rather than screwing it
@@SkillBuilder that makes sense .
Great demonstration video. I did cringe when I noticed you not wearing safty specs when plastering the lid. I've got plaster in my eyes in the past it's horrendous.
I have had plaster in my eyes lots of times, it is not good but I wash it out with a hosepipe.
Surely that lip goes behind the membrane because otherwise the water will just fall behind the drains?
no, if you put the lip behind the membrane you will get water on top of the perimeter drain.
The membrane goes behind and the water trickles into the drain and runs away. There are holes in the side of the perimeter drain to take the build up of moisture.
Lol 😂"What's not to like ..." being a plumber, I guess it's quite fitting having a sewer run through your office 😉👍
Thanks for all the great videos
Not my office
Novice question: Why polystyrene? I have heard that it absorbs moisture and that styrofoam would be better. Unfortunately, I found this out from a non-trade source and wanted to clarify.
It it true to say that a closed cell extruded polystyrene will hold back moisture but the only 25mm thick board I could get hold of was this and it is behind the membrane. The wall above that lip is cavity so it is bone dry hence the recessed sockets at that height
@@SkillBuilder thanks for the info 🙂
You are right but in this case the moisture is behind the membrane so we want it to trickle down to the drain
How much does it cost to?
What is this fixing called?
Would it not be easier to put a membrane on the outside as the building is being built?
Should of asked the builder 120 years ago 🙄
Billy
If you can do it then outside is always best but not every job allows for it.
@@SkillBuilder thank you for the reply
So you think I could use this on an under pavement bunker roof? Have no plans to plaster afterwards. Just want the water to stop dripping on the washing machine and freezer!
yes if you have a vaulted ceiling you can attach it but I would begin with a slurry coat of tanking render to keep the worst out.
those sockets up above ground level?
yes they are in the cavity wall
A sewer? I hope you don’t hear the occasional ‘thud’ sound when one lands.
Why are the sockets so high? The desk would have looked so much better all cable managed, no trailing (hanging) leads. Great vid though
Paul M
The sockets are above ground in the cavity wall above the damp so there is no problem. If they had been lower they would have breached the membrane. The alternative would have been surface run conduit and surface mounted sockets
Not bad Roger . That pipe left them right in the shit 🤨🧱👍🏽
i have been using old royd for years .... as far I'm aware is one of the best systems out there. but like anything else a system is only good as the person installing.
Old Roy's what's that a membrane brand?????
@@robertr.shacklady7315 yes that is correct. but there is others other there like "delta" same principle different name.
I had my cellar tanked, but it is still damp.
Then it was not done properly
Paid £3500 for it too
Wouldn’t have been able to plaster that anyway, too much movement on the sheet
You are right. It takes a coat of Bonding to stiffen it but I did worry about cracking
So you wouldn't want to hang any pictures on that wall then...
Stick the hook up with 3M double sided tape.
Do you have a link to the video you mention here? th-cam.com/video/PLuegyP4KIo/w-d-xo.html i had a look though the play list but i cant seem to find it? thanks
not enough plugs mate, you should have one everywhere you are going to dab for best practice.
That is what I did
You wouldnt want to do this in an old 1850s stone cellar made of Lime as its wouldnt be able to breath and weep.
The whole point of this system is to allow water from the wall to drain away. You could call that breathing or weeping, the point is that it keeps the moisture out of the room.
@@SkillBuilder Yes it makes sense but the vapour barrier only masks it..? My cellar weeps rain water only at the very bottom of the one wall south West facing during heavy rain. No leaky gutters, drains etc.
I don't understand where the vapour barrier is. The membrane is studded to allow the water to trickle down the back. If you had a vapour permeable membrane you would simply be allowing the moisture from the walls to evaporate into the room. If you do that you might as well just accept a damp cellar as a way of life.
@@SkillBuilder Thanks Yes.... Can i send you an email of the issue... It's old and not common...? 1850 cellar! Loads of rain but random water below knee level. Not terrible but noticeable.
👍👍👍
That was the worst tanking ive seen in my life 👍🏻
You have a great opportunity to show us how to do it on your channel but strangely you have no videos. Strange that