Well done! As one who has been down this road, planning is everything. Might take longer for the savings and pride in the work is priceless. This will look fantastic once finished.
@@MrDaveELsouth Using white basement waterproof paint on the inside of a basement helps keep it warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Putting white stain on the basement rafters is a nice touch. You don't have to paint the whole board but just the first few inches. Of course where you have a light fixture you might stain the whole board for the extra reflected light.
I have been insulating 5 shipping containers. One estimate I saw if I used the same adhesive you used, it would cost $500 in adhesive per 20ft shipping container. Instead I for construction adhesive foam. It takes less than 2 $16 cans per shipping container. It is also better at rough surfaces. It starts out 1.5 inches thick, and spreads out depending on how hard you press. I am intentionally sealing the top of the wall cavities while leaving the bottom open. That way any condensation will come out the bottom and not get trapped as a liquid, causing mold issues. I also left a 1/4 inch gap between the sheets that I filed with window and door spray foam so it will flex over time, like an expansion joint, but more insulating than just taping the joints. My panels are 3.5 inches thick.
I did my basement of 620 sqft by solo, it took 2 years to complete. I created two rooms, one 3-piece washroom, laundry room however kitchen and living-room in one area. I have 9 to 5 job as a senior network engineer, 3 kids and stay-home wife who cannot help me with anything in the basement project. It was overwhelming for one guy to do it. I hired professional for plumbing, Hvac, electric, for 2 years I did not have a life and there was no Friday night special almost for two years.
Dang i do a ton of diy and it legit never occurred to me to format Excel squares into square foot blocks. Thanks for pointing that out in your video, I'll def be using that tip now
It's great. I have used it before to provide an engineering drawing for a part I needed made and given the excel file to an actual engineer to put into CAD. He said it was a really cool way for anyone who doesn't know CAD to speak their language.
It is easier to use a flat edged garden shovel to dig two feet deep around the foundation. Then score (rough up) some 4' X 8' feet 2" inch Blue foam board. Cut the foam board and apply construction adhesive. Press against the washed clean foundation and use some patio pavers to hold in place until dry. Then apply caulk & Stucco and after it dries stain it the color you like. Finally back fill the dirt. I did this years ago but just used one inch board and only went down one foot. Glad I did, the basement and floor is noticeable warmer in the Winter. This method uses less material than the interior insulation and you don't have chemicals being released inside the living space. White rooves with better ventilation and using Blue foam board on exterior foundations are two certain things to reduce energy use and improve the interior condition. Americans are using too much energy in the Summer and Winter months. Best wishes to all & regards. Mark
Love the insulating vid geat points all round. Definitely if i was doing it before framing puting glob of the PL300 foam adhesive every 10" or so. I'll definitely get a bigger cold chisel like yours next time used a small one and took forever and the wife hated the hammering lol. PPE with glasses for sure and coveralls if chipping on the tar coating. Few things you could do 1. Put the framing up before and leave a gap from the foundation wall to put in the rigid foam and the batt insulation between the rigid foam and frame to apply pressure onto the board and only need a normal bead along the frame. Just make sure you have a gap to slide the boards in length ways. 2. Spray foam the bottom and up top in ceiling joist to have a continuous thermal break (my place in saskatoon canada requires it for new builds) 3. Optional you could use a 40 coarse abrasive angle grinder pad for those small edges or if you don't want the dust everywhere do the chiseling on each concrete form. The only thing with this using the angle grinder is you don't want to do it on the black tar coating because it really sinks up the place and i'm sure isnt good to breathe in. Overall love the work you did and explain your process. Definitely game changer to DIY with this and save $$$
Hey thanks for the feedback and all good ideas!! Probably a few small things I would have done different, but I'm happy with the process and outcome. Good luck with your projects!
That foamboard is the vapor barrier for those that are confused. Its closed cell foam and is considered a vapor barrier once properly sealed up with spray foam in the gaps and taped. Unless you have a serious moisture problem that requires a sump pit and pump that 1 inch pink foam is plenty.
@kennedyadams7159 this type of foam is only the vapor barrier it has minimal insulation properties. R5 I think is the best you can get for 1 inch. I'd definitely add a secondary layer of regular insulation over it in the walls.
Heating and Cold air returns, should be run down near floor. Safensound should be used in ceiling.Pink blanket insulation, should be used on all walls.
It is very important when you are making door framing, make sure door pillars and headers are level to the dot, it will help you when installing to door.
Are you going to insulate/air seal your rim joist? Or are they already done? I used rigid and spray foam to seal them up. Many videos on how to do this.
When they built the house, the rim joists were already sealed up and there is insulation up there, to code. I watched the same videos but determined I should be all set!
key thing is to seal the Slab to the wall FIRST. with foam/sealant as warm air from the room/concrete will travel behind the Rigid Foam and Condensate against the cold Concrete. Same thing as old air from above the wall traveling down to slab. A Small Crack/Gap between the wall and Slab Floor will allow TONNES of air/moisture to create vapour.
For a moisture barrier, would you recommend a product like DryLok onto the walls first then put up the foam board? I have a storage area that has just the concrete poured walls that is basically all underground. I am thinking of putting up foam board against it to stop the cold air coming in the rest of the basement. I won't finish these walls as it is just a storage area. Thanks
@GriffySpeed unless you have issues, I would just use the R5 foam board and then build your 2x4 wall infront of that. You can see more of my wall build in the framing videos.
@@ryanscottlifts The concrete exterior wall I am wanting to insulate won't have a wall built onto it, it is a storage area. There is another built wall about 8' in from this wall.
@GriffySpeed yea in that case I'd just leave the concrete exposed bc you will actually insulate the "finished wall" that is in front of your storage area (hopefully that makes sense). You can throw the foam on the storage walls of you want, but R5 really doesn't provide much thermal help.
Great video. Did you notice any significant difference in the humidity level in the basement after applying the foam board? I’ve got a similar poured concrete basement and am considering this as an option if it helps eliminate humidity.
@comedyoferrors77 to be honest, my basement has always been pretty dry. I had a dehumidifier down there and it never ran. The basement does "feel" more sealed and dry though.
Question for the group- my cement walls already have been painted with hydro-lock as I assume to be a moisture barrier by previous owner. I want to add the foam boards. Is that overkill/ will it not breathe enough or should I be fine to do so? Starting the basement in the next few months and videos like this are great 👍🏼
Great video. I also live in CT and just started finishing my basement a few weeks ago. I have my foam board up and most of the basement framed already. What are you planning using for insulation in the stud bays? I was planning on the foam board & R15 rockwool to get me to necessary code (which I believe is R21 for exterior walls in CT but might be mistaken.) I'd like to avoid spray foaming if possible.
Awesome video man! Can you share your spreadsheet? Maybe as a Google doc? Just as a starting point as im starting my own basement and im in planning stage 😊
Any reason why you didn't install a thermal break floor before the insulation on the wall? Typically I see the flooring first, then insulation, then frame over the floor.
@raymonddurkin newer flooring has bottom "rubber" and doesn't necessarily need any sort of subfloor in the basement. Also, my basement (and house) and newer, dry, and relatively warm. I don't have the hvac turned on yet and it stays in high 60s down there even during winter.
That’s nuts. Two guys would have busted that out in one day and made a $1,000 each. All for one days work. I do all my own work also. No way am I paying those type of mark ups, they are gouging.
Great video! The same board you bought in 2-inch form is $64 now...Will a 1.5 EPS board work in place of the XPS board. It's more than half the price of the Xps board and same dimensions.
I believe it’s a general consensus of modern building science that you should never use an impermeable vapor barrier on the inside of a basement, as it does not allow the moisture to dry to the inside and instead traps the moisture in the wall and foundation, leading to mold, and eventual structural issues due to water damage and hydrostatic pressure.
Hey there, I'm in the planning stages of finishing my basement. My house is 7 years old and wondering if I should apply spray foam or foam boards to the joist pockets. Or if its even necessary. Did you?
@istr8b3ast you can probably just cut the foam board to shove up there and make it flush with your foam insulation on the foundation walls. My builder actually put the fiber glass insulation up in there and all the way to the exterior wall. Technically, it can be a moisture risk, but if you just throw the foam insulation up there you will be good.
@christopherwill4441 nice! The NGX is just the next Gen version (and believe better for the environment). And to be honest it's all my local hardware store sold also.
Going to start my own basement soon, it’s 1200 square-foot walkout basement. The main wall is large windows, a nook and sliding glass door, the back wall is concrete walls, I’m confused about needing these foam boards or a vapor barrier plastic roll installed, or both, or none. And then does the framing go right up to the vapor barrier?
@RC.56 this foam acts as the vaper barrier. And yes, the 2x4 framing goes right against it (and then you put insulation between your framing studs - I used Rockwool R15 for a total of R20). If you were to do another vaper barrier in addition to the pink foam, you'd create an issue for moisture to get in and have no way out and you'd get mold. See my framing videos as well.
@RC.56 check out my Pony Wall video I just posted. You can see I have a similar slope and one of my walls is half concrete half "above grade". But yes, pink rigid foam insulation on the concrete.
There is a video that shows you how to make an overlapping seam in your insulation where you wouldn't need to even fill seams. Because there would be none. Similar to installing hardwood floors.
@drdecker1 I honestly wouldn't think there would be a big benefit. At least in a newer house and an all below grade basement. Because I will also be doing R15 insulation between the 2x4 framing, so it'll be super insulated.
@@ryanscottlifts Better seal between the foam. The foam is also there to prevent any moisture from seeping through Into your fiberglass insulation and studs.
@@drdecker1 I hear ya, but the foam boards basically have no gap. Idk, I'd have to see the process you're talking about, but I don't think there would be a "real" advantage. Only an implied advantage. I am not going to save another $10 on my heating bill, and a fully below grade basement won't be drafty.
@brianhawthorne8480 that's why I said in the video you need to do the moisture test and/or know your foundation. My house is newer and the foundation has been waterproofed when they built. That said, any moisture behind the foam will evaporate. The foam acts as a moisture barrier to your inside walls.
Ok. My basement walls had moisture/water slowly coming through during heavy rains. Lots of hydrostatic pressure too which caused water coming in through the cold seems at the base of the wall as well. I installed a proper french drain system, with drainage matting that extends 6 inches up the wall from the floor so leaking wall water will run down into french drain. Can I just put up 6 mill poly against the wall and run the poly behind the drainage matting? Then put up a finished wall with a gap between the cinderblock wall?
@brianhawthorne8480 think I'd need to see it. Your French drain is inside the basement or outside? You just don't want to install 2 imperiable things back to back (6 mil poly and foam insulation) bc then water can't evaporate and mold starts.
@brianhawthorne8480 got it. Again, without seeing it, it's hard to give a direct answer, but in your case I'd probably install my poly on the outside of your interior wall (foundation side) to keep moisture away from your insulation.
Great video! I have a question, hoping someone will be able to help. 7:53 1. Knocking off the concrete knots with chisel and sealing the holes? When you removes the knots from concrete walls, do you have to seal the holes with a hydraulic cement or concrete repair as those knots are due to a result of covering the concrete metal rods/bracing? If you don’t cover it up, does it not result in water leakage? 2. Is it worth to dry lock or apply some sort of a water proof paint after smoothing the concrete? I am not going to cover the basement concrete wall but looking to smooth and paint it for an industrial open basement look. Please share your thoughts.
Hey none of that is necessary. The knots just pop off very easily and there are no holes left. If you have holes, you got a bigger problem with the quality of your foundation! It is at least 1 foot thick concrete so knocking those off is an after thought.
If we own the home too we don't have to bang it all out in one week either...We can spread out the work and the costs of the materials over some time. I know it's different for you cause this is content for the videos and videos = Money so it makes sense to do it all at once like your doing so you got stuff to put out. I convinced my wife to help do our basement...we're still renting but we have plans for owning our own home by 2028...WITH a full basement...We're already daydreaming of the hypothetical things to do with the houses we're seeing online for sale...I want a basement theater, bathroom. and in the attic space I want an arcade, as if we transported one straight from the early 90's with all the neon lights and UV reactive crazy carpet.
@BlackTownie999 yea man best of luck to you and the wife! I'm sure you'll be there soon. In all honesty, if we didn't have kids and my career wasn't so busy, I could have banged out the entire basement in about 3 weeks. But I do it when I get time and then filming for TH-cam also adds hours to the process.
@@ryanscottlifts once they are hard ofcourse but at 10:14 in your video you see that panels that were put to the wall a short time before came back loose again and you push against them a second time. With pu foam glue you wont have that.
Is that insulation worth it? Unless your insulating the floors too seems like a moot point…. I’m about to build out a basement too so asking for my education
Yes, you need it. It acts as a vapor barrier as well. So, beyond just a bit of insulation. I'll also put fiberglass insulation between the 2x4s once electric is ran. You don't want your unpressure treated 2x4s flush against the concrete foundation walls.
@@ryanscottliftsexactly as I am doing in my 1940’s home in the basement. My city code recommended the formular 1” rigid for the vapor barrier. Then 2x4 or 6 with rock wool or fiberglass. Minimum is R15 overall.
This is a good video, but I think it could be even better if there was a bit more showing and a bit less telling. That might help you gain more followers
Please stop trapping moisture into your basement walls with insulation simply paint and expose your ceiling and enjoy your basement with a dehumidifier over the drain that's all you need
these contractor always ripping ppl off. good job on diying. hope ur basement does not have any water penetration. I would of DRYLOK paint it first and then put those foam boards up. but you probably dont have any water going into basement.
He's referring to putting foam board on the outer walls and back filling them in. It literally doesn't matter how you do it, it all works the same (as long as you have the black tar coating on the outer walls in all underground areas). I am also going to be gluing the foam board to my inner basement walls 👍👍
If you insulate on the exterior, you have the issue of how to cover it and how it meets your siding when you get above grade. Also if you were to use this product on the exterior, bugs would tunnel through it, you’d have to use something like mineral wool. Insulating on the interior is a better way if the house wasn’t planned for it.
That's gonna be such a huge amount of living space, excited to see the progress, the excel tip was great!
Thanks man!
This is definitely giving me some inspiration to finish my garage and basement.
Let me know my man
i feel it bro. I got a kid on the way, and that has motivated me to get to work
Well done! As one who has been down this road, planning is everything. Might take longer for the savings and pride in the work is priceless. This will look fantastic once finished.
Thanks brother!
@@MrDaveELsouth Using white basement waterproof paint on the inside of a basement helps keep it warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Putting white stain on the basement rafters is a nice touch. You don't have to paint the whole board but just the first few inches. Of course where you have a light fixture you might stain the whole board for the extra reflected light.
Thanks for adding the part about wearing the proper PPE. It's an easy step to forget.
Yep! I'm glad I didn't hit myself in the eye with concrete haha
It’s looking so good!!! I’m seriously impressed!! ❤
Thanks! Are you single?
Can't wait to see it all finished!
Congrats from Spain, hope to see more about your project!
Thank you! Framing videos next!
Oh t00tsie! You’re in the Northeast now? That’s dope! Congrats on the channel. Happy to see you still have the Tippie. Great work.
-Opie
@petervlassis129 honestly, it's hilarious you found me haha. Hope all well man. And never selling heR!
I have been insulating 5 shipping containers. One estimate I saw if I used the same adhesive you used, it would cost $500 in adhesive per 20ft shipping container. Instead I for construction adhesive foam. It takes less than 2 $16 cans per shipping container. It is also better at rough surfaces. It starts out 1.5 inches thick, and spreads out depending on how hard you press. I am intentionally sealing the top of the wall cavities while leaving the bottom open. That way any condensation will come out the bottom and not get trapped as a liquid, causing mold issues. I also left a 1/4 inch gap between the sheets that I filed with window and door spray foam so it will flex over time, like an expansion joint, but more insulating than just taping the joints. My panels are 3.5 inches thick.
@mikegrok very nice work. I definitely didn't spend anywhere near $500 for a 1,500 sq ft basement though. Maybe $120 at most.
I did my basement of 620 sqft by solo, it took 2 years to complete. I created two rooms, one 3-piece washroom, laundry room however kitchen and living-room in one area.
I have 9 to 5 job as a senior network engineer, 3 kids and stay-home wife who cannot help me with anything in the basement project.
It was overwhelming for one guy to do it.
I hired professional for plumbing, Hvac, electric, for 2 years I did not have a life and there was no Friday night special almost for two years.
great job. By the way how much you spent for it.
@@UttamDas-f2q I spent about 35,000 cdn.
Dang i do a ton of diy and it legit never occurred to me to format Excel squares into square foot blocks. Thanks for pointing that out in your video, I'll def be using that tip now
It's great. I have used it before to provide an engineering drawing for a part I needed made and given the excel file to an actual engineer to put into CAD. He said it was a really cool way for anyone who doesn't know CAD to speak their language.
PowerPoint is much easier IMO
Respect for the drum kit man, rock on 🤘
@@joelwinter3659 rock on! I gotta dust that thing off
It is easier to use a flat edged garden shovel to dig two feet deep around the foundation. Then score (rough up) some 4' X 8' feet 2" inch Blue foam board. Cut the foam board and apply construction adhesive. Press against the washed clean foundation and use some patio pavers to hold in place until dry. Then apply caulk & Stucco and after it dries stain it the color you like. Finally back fill the dirt.
I did this years ago but just used one inch board and only went down one foot. Glad I did, the basement and floor is noticeable warmer in the Winter. This method uses less material than the interior insulation and you don't have chemicals being released inside the living space.
White rooves with better ventilation and using Blue foam board on exterior foundations are two certain things to reduce energy use and improve the interior condition. Americans are using too much energy in the Summer and Winter months. Best wishes to all & regards. Mark
Great video. Essentially condensed about 50 videos I had saved in my playlist into one. Thanks
@infiniti2015 awesome! Glad it helped you out.
Love the insulating vid geat points all round. Definitely if i was doing it before framing puting glob of the PL300 foam adhesive every 10" or so. I'll definitely get a bigger cold chisel like yours next time used a small one and took forever and the wife hated the hammering lol. PPE with glasses for sure and coveralls if chipping on the tar coating.
Few things you could do
1. Put the framing up before and leave a gap from the foundation wall to put in the rigid foam and the batt insulation between the rigid foam and frame to apply pressure onto the board and only need a normal bead along the frame. Just make sure you have a gap to slide the boards in length ways.
2. Spray foam the bottom and up top in ceiling joist to have a continuous thermal break (my place in saskatoon canada requires it for new builds)
3. Optional you could use a 40 coarse abrasive angle grinder pad for those small edges or if you don't want the dust everywhere do the chiseling on each concrete form. The only thing with this using the angle grinder is you don't want to do it on the black tar coating
because it really sinks up the place and i'm sure isnt good to breathe in.
Overall love the work you did and explain your process. Definitely game changer to DIY with this and save $$$
Hey thanks for the feedback and all good ideas!! Probably a few small things I would have done different, but I'm happy with the process and outcome. Good luck with your projects!
Excellent work music! Props for that!
@@earlyblackmz thanks!!
That foamboard is the vapor barrier for those that are confused. Its closed cell foam and is considered a vapor barrier once properly sealed up with spray foam in the gaps and taped. Unless you have a serious moisture problem that requires a sump pit and pump that 1 inch pink foam is plenty.
@@scrody33 exactly
We have 30 degree temps all winter. So the pink one inch is enough R value for my cinder block walls and leave crawlspace ceiling un insulated?
@kennedyadams7159 this type of foam is only the vapor barrier it has minimal insulation properties. R5 I think is the best you can get for 1 inch. I'd definitely add a secondary layer of regular insulation over it in the walls.
@@kennedyadams7159 hey sorry are you Insulating a basement or a crawlspace?
@@scrody33 agreed. I have R15 Rockwood for the walls between the studs
Heating and Cold air returns, should be run down near floor. Safensound should be used in ceiling.Pink blanket insulation, should be used on all walls.
Btw, what kind of tape are you using on the joints. And is that Foamular panel mold resistant?
It is very important when you are making door framing, make sure door pillars and headers are level to the dot, it will help you when installing to door.
@@LogicStandsBeforeGod agreed!
Does your installation technique allow an air gap behind the foam board?
Are you going to insulate/air seal your rim joist? Or are they already done? I used rigid and spray foam to seal them up. Many videos on how to do this.
When they built the house, the rim joists were already sealed up and there is insulation up there, to code. I watched the same videos but determined I should be all set!
We gonna talk bout that drum kit? Very nice
@@jtbasic hahaha maybe next video!
key thing is to seal the Slab to the wall FIRST. with foam/sealant as warm air from the room/concrete will travel behind the Rigid Foam and Condensate against the cold Concrete.
Same thing as old air from above the wall traveling down to slab. A Small Crack/Gap between the wall and Slab Floor will allow TONNES of air/moisture to create vapour.
For a moisture barrier, would you recommend a product like DryLok onto the walls first then put up the foam board? I have a storage area that has just the concrete poured walls that is basically all underground. I am thinking of putting up foam board against it to stop the cold air coming in the rest of the basement. I won't finish these walls as it is just a storage area. Thanks
@@GriffySpeed the foam board is also a moisture barrier
@@ryanscottlifts Would you say that I don't need to put the drylok on the concrete walls then? That would save a lot of time and a couple $$$.
@GriffySpeed unless you have issues, I would just use the R5 foam board and then build your 2x4 wall infront of that. You can see more of my wall build in the framing videos.
@@ryanscottlifts The concrete exterior wall I am wanting to insulate won't have a wall built onto it, it is a storage area. There is another built wall about 8' in from this wall.
@GriffySpeed yea in that case I'd just leave the concrete exposed bc you will actually insulate the "finished wall" that is in front of your storage area (hopefully that makes sense). You can throw the foam on the storage walls of you want, but R5 really doesn't provide much thermal help.
Great video. Did you notice any significant difference in the humidity level in the basement after applying the foam board? I’ve got a similar poured concrete basement and am considering this as an option if it helps eliminate humidity.
@comedyoferrors77 to be honest, my basement has always been pretty dry. I had a dehumidifier down there and it never ran. The basement does "feel" more sealed and dry though.
I would have put a subfloor down before the foam boards.
Question for the group- my cement walls already have been painted with hydro-lock as I assume to be a moisture barrier by previous owner. I want to add the foam boards. Is that overkill/ will it not breathe enough or should I be fine to do so? Starting the basement in the next few months and videos like this are great 👍🏼
Nice, for Duct work cost you 2500$ just for insulating or everything?
Great video. I also live in CT and just started finishing my basement a few weeks ago. I have my foam board up and most of the basement framed already. What are you planning using for insulation in the stud bays? I was planning on the foam board & R15 rockwool to get me to necessary code (which I believe is R21 for exterior walls in CT but might be mistaken.) I'd like to avoid spray foaming if possible.
That is essentially what I am doing too.
Awesome video man! Can you share your spreadsheet? Maybe as a Google doc? Just as a starting point as im starting my own basement and im in planning stage 😊
@@MrZlatanv shoot me an email. I may make a video on how to use excel to do what I did
Enjoyed the vid and yes a vid on how to make that spreadsheet would be great….
@samuelmaylor6634 I'll have to make that very soon.
Any reason why you didn't install a thermal break floor before the insulation on the wall? Typically I see the flooring first, then insulation, then frame over the floor.
@raymonddurkin newer flooring has bottom "rubber" and doesn't necessarily need any sort of subfloor in the basement. Also, my basement (and house) and newer, dry, and relatively warm. I don't have the hvac turned on yet and it stays in high 60s down there even during winter.
That’s nuts. Two guys would have busted that out in one day and made a $1,000 each. All for one days work.
I do all my own work also. No way am I paying those type of mark ups, they are gouging.
@@AJourneyOfYourSoul yep it's terrible!!
Great video! The same board you bought in 2-inch form is $64 now...Will a 1.5 EPS board work in place of the XPS board. It's more than half the price of the Xps board and same dimensions.
@rainman415 hey thank you! I don't use EPS. XPS has better moisture barrier properties. You're going to get what you pay for!
@@ryanscottlifts okay, thank you for replying.
I believe it’s a general consensus of modern building science that you should never use an impermeable vapor barrier on the inside of a basement, as it does not allow the moisture to dry to the inside and instead traps the moisture in the wall and foundation, leading to mold, and eventual structural issues due to water damage and hydrostatic pressure.
There's also systems like this though with an interior vapor barrier.
th-cam.com/video/1nKIeIT0RBM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=6Xsycs6TrcznLu4l
Hey there, I'm in the planning stages of finishing my basement. My house is 7 years old and wondering if I should apply spray foam or foam boards to the joist pockets. Or if its even necessary. Did you?
@istr8b3ast you can probably just cut the foam board to shove up there and make it flush with your foam insulation on the foundation walls. My builder actually put the fiber glass insulation up in there and all the way to the exterior wall. Technically, it can be a moisture risk, but if you just throw the foam insulation up there you will be good.
Pull permits…. 😂😂😂
@@Sadowskibradley lol
Thanks for the video. I'm working on the same project now. Is there a reason you got the NGX Foamular 150 instead of the regular Foamular 150?
@christopherwill4441 nice! The NGX is just the next Gen version (and believe better for the environment). And to be honest it's all my local hardware store sold also.
Going to start my own basement soon, it’s 1200 square-foot walkout basement. The main wall is large windows, a nook and sliding glass door, the back wall is concrete walls, I’m confused about needing these foam boards or a vapor barrier plastic roll installed, or both, or none. And then does the framing go right up to the vapor barrier?
@RC.56 this foam acts as the vaper barrier. And yes, the 2x4 framing goes right against it (and then you put insulation between your framing studs - I used Rockwool R15 for a total of R20). If you were to do another vaper barrier in addition to the pink foam, you'd create an issue for moisture to get in and have no way out and you'd get mold. See my framing videos as well.
Ok thank you. Also, is it just for the concrete? Since my house is on a slops, the side walls are half concrete and half siding to exterior.
@RC.56 check out my Pony Wall video I just posted. You can see I have a similar slope and one of my walls is half concrete half "above grade". But yes, pink rigid foam insulation on the concrete.
@@ryanscottlifts looking for that foam board, Foamular NGX is $45 a board at HD, that sound right?
@RC.56 yep. It was $35 when I bought mine but I know it's gone up with inflation.
There is a video that shows you how to make an overlapping seam in your insulation where you wouldn't need to even fill seams. Because there would be none. Similar to installing hardwood floors.
@drdecker1 I honestly wouldn't think there would be a big benefit. At least in a newer house and an all below grade basement. Because I will also be doing R15 insulation between the 2x4 framing, so it'll be super insulated.
@@ryanscottlifts Better seal between the foam. The foam is also there to prevent any moisture from seeping through Into your fiberglass insulation and studs.
@@drdecker1 I hear ya, but the foam boards basically have no gap. Idk, I'd have to see the process you're talking about, but I don't think there would be a "real" advantage. Only an implied advantage. I am not going to save another $10 on my heating bill, and a fully below grade basement won't be drafty.
Beast mode man. Drywalling isn't for the weak.
Framing all done too....video coming soon haha
@@ryanscottlifts when's the inaugural party?
@@jeffdodge1913 hopefully June??
Doesnt the foam board act as a vapor barrier as well?
Yes, exactly. It does!
What if water comes in through the wall? Does it get trapped behind the foam?
@brianhawthorne8480 that's why I said in the video you need to do the moisture test and/or know your foundation. My house is newer and the foundation has been waterproofed when they built. That said, any moisture behind the foam will evaporate. The foam acts as a moisture barrier to your inside walls.
Ok. My basement walls had moisture/water slowly coming through during heavy rains. Lots of hydrostatic pressure too which caused water coming in through the cold seems at the base of the wall as well. I installed a proper french drain system, with drainage matting that extends 6 inches up the wall from the floor so leaking wall water will run down into french drain. Can I just put up 6 mill poly against the wall and run the poly behind the drainage matting? Then put up a finished wall with a gap between the cinderblock wall?
@brianhawthorne8480 think I'd need to see it. Your French drain is inside the basement or outside? You just don't want to install 2 imperiable things back to back (6 mil poly and foam insulation) bc then water can't evaporate and mold starts.
French drain is inside, with dimple matting that goes up a few inches on the wall so any wall water can drip down and reach the french drain.
@brianhawthorne8480 got it. Again, without seeing it, it's hard to give a direct answer, but in your case I'd probably install my poly on the outside of your interior wall (foundation side) to keep moisture away from your insulation.
Great video!
I have a question, hoping someone will be able to help. 7:53
1. Knocking off the concrete knots with chisel and sealing the holes?
When you removes the knots from concrete walls, do you have to seal the holes with a hydraulic cement or concrete repair as those knots are due to a result of covering the concrete metal rods/bracing? If you don’t cover it up, does it not result in water leakage?
2. Is it worth to dry lock or apply some sort of a water proof paint after smoothing the concrete?
I am not going to cover the basement concrete wall but looking to smooth and paint it for an industrial open basement look.
Please share your thoughts.
Hey none of that is necessary. The knots just pop off very easily and there are no holes left. If you have holes, you got a bigger problem with the quality of your foundation! It is at least 1 foot thick concrete so knocking those off is an after thought.
If we own the home too we don't have to bang it all out in one week either...We can spread out the work and the costs of the materials over some time.
I know it's different for you cause this is content for the videos and videos = Money so it makes sense to do it all at once like your doing so you got stuff to put out.
I convinced my wife to help do our basement...we're still renting but we have plans for owning our own home by 2028...WITH a full basement...We're already daydreaming of the hypothetical things to do with the houses we're seeing online for sale...I want a basement theater, bathroom. and in the attic space I want an arcade, as if we transported one straight from the early 90's with all the neon lights and UV reactive crazy carpet.
@BlackTownie999 yea man best of luck to you and the wife! I'm sure you'll be there soon. In all honesty, if we didn't have kids and my career wasn't so busy, I could have banged out the entire basement in about 3 weeks. But I do it when I get time and then filming for TH-cam also adds hours to the process.
Better used some PU-foam glue to glue those iso panels to concrete, works faster and glues better
This seemed to work. I went to pull a few panels off to check them and I couldn't get them off without breaking the boards.
@@ryanscottlifts once they are hard ofcourse but at 10:14 in your video you see that panels that were put to the wall a short time before came back loose again and you push against them a second time. With pu foam glue you wont have that.
@@rroosenFB good to know! Thanks for sharing....wish I had known bc that was a pain haha
Is that insulation sound proof?
@@MaraJ2295 nope
Is that insulation worth it? Unless your insulating the floors too seems like a moot point…. I’m about to build out a basement too so asking for my education
Yes, you need it. It acts as a vapor barrier as well. So, beyond just a bit of insulation. I'll also put fiberglass insulation between the 2x4s once electric is ran. You don't want your unpressure treated 2x4s flush against the concrete foundation walls.
@@ryanscottliftsexactly as I am doing in my 1940’s home in the basement. My city code recommended the formular 1” rigid for the vapor barrier. Then 2x4 or 6 with rock wool or fiberglass. Minimum is R15 overall.
@mikeminnick9712 amen! I am doing R15 Rockwool in the 2x4 cavity. So, will be R20 overall. Goodluck with your project!
This is a good video, but I think it could be even better if there was a bit more showing and a bit less telling. That might help you gain more followers
Please stop trapping moisture into your basement walls with insulation simply paint and expose your ceiling and enjoy your basement with a dehumidifier over the drain that's all you need
Yeah, pull a permit. :)
@@rosewoodsteel6656 oh indeed haha
In my area code does not allow styrofoam exposed insulation.
@@norm4907 so what is the code? Vapor barrier, 2x4 framing and faced insulation only?
@@ryanscottlifts Gyproc covered. Something to do with the fire hazard of styrofoam, not sure if it’s fumes or the melting issues.
@@norm4907 ah ok got it.
Pull a permit 😂 no
these contractor always ripping ppl off. good job on diying. hope ur basement does not have any water penetration. I would of DRYLOK paint it first and then put those foam boards up. but you probably dont have any water going into basement.
@thanhduong9145 yep we are dry. Newer house and foundation was coated
Insulation belongs on the outside
Not sure what you're talking about. This is literally the code/correct way to finish a basement
There will be another set of insulation between the 2x4s prior to drywalling
He's referring to putting foam board on the outer walls and back filling them in. It literally doesn't matter how you do it, it all works the same (as long as you have the black tar coating on the outer walls in all underground areas). I am also going to be gluing the foam board to my inner basement walls 👍👍
@@Dorchwoods yep. That's how my foundation is.
If you insulate on the exterior, you have the issue of how to cover it and how it meets your siding when you get above grade. Also if you were to use this product on the exterior, bugs would tunnel through it, you’d have to use something like mineral wool. Insulating on the interior is a better way if the house wasn’t planned for it.
Fellow ct resident !
Thanks for checking out the video!