Great to see a real job being done, axle stands, tight bolts and problems. It's how some of us keep our vans alive. Great work and appreciate the video.
No worries. Thanks for the comment. Loads of videos show how it works on a clean new part. On a 17 year old van everything is seized shut and the real test is getting stuff off without a gas axe! I like the challenge.
Man your video helped a lot and I also got into a mess not lifting the upper control arm enough...I cut a length of reinforcing bar...about 25 mm thick and ran it through the upper control arm and used 2 jacks to raise the whole lot so the lower arm was clear...it worked well but only after freakin out that I was stuck just like you! Thanks dude!
I have done this job a few times now. The first time was on a street with cars passing and tools all over the gutter. The second time It all went to plan, then this time was the third and I seemed to have completely forgot all of my past experience. we get there in the end.
Thanks for your time and efforts, I do like your vids cos not everyone has the right tools and the right know how. I love the way you just have an educated or not go. Ace thanks again Ray
Fair play to you. You could've edited the mistakes out but you didn't. What was good about this video was the "what not to do" You made me smile today. Cheers.
When I do this I jack up the lower arm up to compress the suspension and hold it there by putting a socket in between the chassis and the top arm, just behind the flat section that hits the bump stop. A 21mm plug socket worked for me. This way once the lower ball joint is undone the steering knuckle/hub assembly can swing freely making reassembly much easier.
Good idea! I have done this job maybe 3 or 4 times. The first time was a horror show, I didn't know what a ball joint splitter was, let alone have one, but i got it done on the kerb on a street in bristol. The other times all went well, but once the camera was rolling I forgot my brain!
The easy way is to just slacken off the torsion bar on the suspension It is the big nut under the van that adjusts the suspension. No need for crowbars and trapped fingers. So easy.
Thanks I got some useful tips from your video. Some things I noticed that might help others: it's easier to change the ball joint if you remove the brake disc and caliper. It's just a matter of removing 3 screws and hanging the caliper with zip ties. Use copper paste or similar on the new parts' threads, the parts should become loose easier the next time. I did this 4 years ago and now today and I used vaseline which helped with some parts at least. Removing the screw from suspension and the hanging arm will make changing of the joint easier too. Just remember to support the upper arm like on the video. They weight quite a lot..
First time i did it i had nothing and was working on the street outside a house in the city. I went to Halfords about 5 times buying tools and taking advantage of their generous returns policy! go for it!
I was told by an old fella to belt the taper joint on the side with a good heavy lump hammer, joint should pop open after a couple of blows....? Well they all did on my Land Rover! About to try it on my T4......
I have made other videos on this where it went more smoothly, you can see them in my vw t4 playlists. What you have said is true, you don't even need a big hammer, as long as the taper is under pressure to release and you give it a good sharp blow! Thanks and good luck.
@@bootsowen Spot on. I made a splitter with a piece of tube, bolt through a plate welded at one end and a plate at the other end cut out to slip between joint and arm, applied lots of pressure with bolt then belted the joint on the side. It's so satisfactory when it cracks free!
Any chance you could put up a video or picture of that splitter somewhere? I'd be glad to see it. I have been caught out without one in the past. Happy to post a link here if you like.
@@bootsowen Exactly the same principle as this one only I used a piece of tube, welded a plate with a nut at one end for the bolt then welded a plate at the other end cutting out what I had to to allow it to slip over the joint.
But as you've already pointed out, these types of splitter aren't designed to force the taper joint apart, just to apply pressure, it's the shock of the hammer on the side that does the job!
Just bought a t4 and all the front bushes could do with replacing. In the Haines manual it says to slacken off the torsion bar to take tension off suspension, wouldn’t that make the job easier?
No idea. You might be able to tell from the video that I’m no expert. The Haynes manual wasn’t available when I got this van originally. So I blundered through. I have since bought the manual but I haven’t found it very useful. Let me know how you get on
Nice! Next time, try to release the suspension pressure by loosening it up under the car. You need a 27mm spanner. Then you won´t need wood parts. Stay safe!
I don't know, It is an odd one, I usually have to bash something else in there to get it out. Like a big flat bladed screwdriver that will make a tight fit and I can get a grip on. I did think of buying one of the big sets of splined bits, but haven't needed it. You might also be able to bash in a sacrificial torx bit. I'm not much help to you.
@@bootsowen hi mate thanks for the info, I changed loads on my t4 van yesterday including suspension but couldn't do my ball joints was looking at getting the spline key kits but they only go upto T12 🤔🤔🤔
Thanks for making this video. I’m looking into replacing my ball joints due to an annoying rattling coming from my front suspension. Did you experience suspension noise prior to replacing the ball joint? Thanks.
Josh Skversky nope. I tend to only do repairs like this when it fails at the MOT. It is probably only one thing loose. Best to identify what is wrong before stabbing at it. Good luck!
Hmm, is it possible to chance the abs ring without removing the brake disc in transporter?Nice video mate, like your humor, stuff shouldnt be too serious, greetings from Finland.
I have a T5 I am attempting to do this very job. I have spent the day hitting with a sledge hammer busting two ball join separators. I have threatened it whacked it countless time with a hammer and a lump hammer. I've promise it sweeties if it would come undone. I have whacked my hands and have an array of cuts and bruises. Tomorrow I am off to Halfords to buy the same ball joint remover you had. You would think hitting the thing with a lump hammer would do the job. Is there some thing I am missing? Yours desperately Mr D Dastardly. PS Muttly has been no help at all.
Have a look through my other vw t4 playlist videos , I may have made another video of this. What I do nowadays is wedge a crowbar/nailbar under it to put it under pressure, stand on the crowbar so it has a fair amount of pressure on it and then "gently" tap the bit that the ball joint threaded taper goes through with the biggest sledge hammer that I have, long handle so you can reach it when you are in the air on a crowbar. You don't actually need the seperator. The trick is to have it under extreme pressure and then deform the taper socket momentarily with a blow of a hammer. Another time on a passat I found that pressure and a sharp blow with a carpenters hammer had the desired effect rather than a lump hammer, although maybe the 100+ blows of a lump hammer had loosened it. The first time I did this job on my T4, outside on the street, basically in the gutter on a road in Bristol 10 years ago with none of the correct tools i bought progressively larger tools from halfords one by one and eventually got the bastard off. Halfords are good in that they will let you return anything if it looks ok and has the packaging. Good luck, let me know how you get on.
Dude, to think you could undo the l/c/a ball joint mounts by smashing a flat screwdriver head into the spline socket of the bolt kinda made me want to stop watching instantly. I watched further waiting for you to hurt yourself, sad but true!
Great to see a real job being done, axle stands, tight bolts and problems. It's how some of us keep our vans alive.
Great work and appreciate the video.
No worries. Thanks for the comment. Loads of videos show how it works on a clean new part. On a 17 year old van everything is seized shut and the real test is getting stuff off without a gas axe! I like the challenge.
Sheer determination gets the job done, who needs the correct tools.
Man your video helped a lot and I also got into a mess not lifting the upper control arm enough...I cut a length of reinforcing bar...about 25 mm thick and ran it through the upper control arm and used 2 jacks to raise the whole lot so the lower arm was clear...it worked well but only after freakin out that I was stuck just like you! Thanks dude!
I have done this job a few times now. The first time was on a street with cars passing and tools all over the gutter. The second time It all went to plan, then this time was the third and I seemed to have completely forgot all of my past experience. we get there in the end.
Thanks for your time and efforts, I do like your vids cos not everyone has the right tools and the right know how. I love the way you just have an educated or not go. Ace thanks again Ray
gotta keep trying.
Fair play to you.
You could've edited the mistakes out but you didn't.
What was good about this video was the "what not to do"
You made me smile today.
Cheers.
Good man, I appreciate the comment, I have done that job a few times, but that day it wouldn't go to plan!
I'm exactly the same as you....a good improvisor when you're in trouble well done
When I do this I jack up the lower arm up to compress the suspension and hold it there by putting a socket in between the chassis and the top arm, just behind the flat section that hits the bump stop. A 21mm plug socket worked for me. This way once the lower ball joint is undone the steering knuckle/hub assembly can swing freely making reassembly much easier.
Good idea! I have done this job maybe 3 or 4 times. The first time was a horror show, I didn't know what a ball joint splitter was, let alone have one, but i got it done on the kerb on a street in bristol. The other times all went well, but once the camera was rolling I forgot my brain!
Really useful tip, thanks for mentioning!
The easy way is to just slacken off the torsion bar on the suspension It is the big nut under the van that adjusts the suspension. No need for crowbars and trapped fingers. So easy.
Have you posted a video of how easy it is?
@@bootsowen Next time i change them i will show a video
Boots, just watched, learnt & changed the ball joint on my T4 - much appreciated
thanks,
I think I have a better how to video in my vw t4 playlist of how to do it better!.
Thanks I got some useful tips from your video. Some things I noticed that might help others: it's easier to change the ball joint if you remove the brake disc and caliper. It's just a matter of removing 3 screws and hanging the caliper with zip ties. Use copper paste or similar on the new parts' threads, the parts should become loose easier the next time. I did this 4 years ago and now today and I used vaseline which helped with some parts at least. Removing the screw from suspension and the hanging arm will make changing of the joint easier too. Just remember to support the upper arm like on the video. They weight quite a lot..
Brilliant video and well done! I just haven’t got the tools or the balls to do this!
First time i did it i had nothing and was working on the street outside a house in the city. I went to Halfords about 5 times buying tools and taking advantage of their generous returns policy! go for it!
13:43 I cant be the only one that has the humour of a 10 year old. informative video man, thanks
Ísland gamla ísland sælir
Thanks. All's well that end's well.....
What make/ size is that ball joint separator you used?
No idea.
Great videos, just got a T4 with a list of jobs to do
cool, i have a playlist full of vids for the T4, if you have any questions let me know.
Mate. The list will never end haha. Welcome to T4 ownership. I tell the wife that's why we wave at each other. We share the same burdens.
I was told by an old fella to belt the taper joint on the side with a good heavy lump hammer, joint should pop open after a couple of blows....? Well they all did on my Land Rover! About to try it on my T4......
I have made other videos on this where it went more smoothly, you can see them in my vw t4 playlists. What you have said is true, you don't even need a big hammer, as long as the taper is under pressure to release and you give it a good sharp blow! Thanks and good luck.
@@bootsowen Spot on. I made a splitter with a piece of tube, bolt through a plate welded at one end and a plate at the other end cut out to slip between joint and arm, applied lots of pressure with bolt then belted the joint on the side. It's so satisfactory when it cracks free!
Any chance you could put up a video or picture of that splitter somewhere? I'd be glad to see it. I have been caught out without one in the past. Happy to post a link here if you like.
@@bootsowen Exactly the same principle as this one only I used a piece of tube, welded a plate with a nut at one end for the bolt then welded a plate at the other end cutting out what I had to to allow it to slip over the joint.
But as you've already pointed out, these types of splitter aren't designed to force the taper joint apart, just to apply pressure, it's the shock of the hammer on the side that does the job!
Just bought a t4 and all the front bushes could do with replacing. In the Haines manual it says to slacken off the torsion bar to take tension off suspension, wouldn’t that make the job easier?
No idea. You might be able to tell from the video that I’m no expert. The Haynes manual wasn’t available when I got this van originally. So I blundered through. I have since bought the manual but I haven’t found it very useful. Let me know how you get on
Yes it would.
It's good to try.
It's the only way I'll learn!
Nice! Next time, try to release the suspension pressure by loosening it up under the car. You need a 27mm spanner. Then you won´t need wood parts. Stay safe!
Thanks for the tip!
This video is very nice
Do you have to line up the wheels afterwards?
kind regards.
Shouldn’t have to for the ball joint. But if you take off the track rod end then yes.
But to add context. I have done the ball joints 3 times and track rod ends 4 times and have always eyeballed it.
I hope you get this message, I'm trying to find out the size of the spline key bolt that holds the bottom ball joint on is it a T12 ????
I don't know, It is an odd one, I usually have to bash something else in there to get it out. Like a big flat bladed screwdriver that will make a tight fit and I can get a grip on.
I did think of buying one of the big sets of splined bits, but haven't needed it. You might also be able to bash in a sacrificial torx bit. I'm not much help to you.
@@bootsowen hi mate thanks for the info, I changed loads on my t4 van yesterday including suspension but couldn't do my ball joints was looking at getting the spline key kits but they only go upto T12 🤔🤔🤔
Like I say, you don't need the correct tool.
Thanks for making this video. I’m looking into replacing my ball joints due to an annoying rattling coming from my front suspension. Did you experience suspension noise prior to replacing the ball joint? Thanks.
Josh Skversky nope. I tend to only do repairs like this when it fails at the MOT. It is probably only one thing loose. Best to identify what is wrong before stabbing at it. Good luck!
Gotta learn somehow! 😁
It’s what you’d have to do in the middle of nowhere lololol
Dont do it like this - just smashed my finger to bits trying this … bar gave way! Lucky i didnt loose it!
Idiots guide?
@@bootsowen my wife did say i was
Hmm, is it possible to chance the abs ring without removing the brake disc in transporter?Nice video mate, like your humor, stuff shouldnt be too serious, greetings from Finland.
Hi there. No idea. No abs on my van. Maybe if you send a video I can give an opinion. It is not difficult to remove the disk. Just one screw.
Thank you bro
I have a T5 I am attempting to do this very job. I have spent the day hitting with a sledge hammer busting two ball join separators. I have threatened it whacked it countless time with a hammer and a lump hammer. I've promise it sweeties if it would come undone. I have whacked my hands and have an array of cuts and bruises. Tomorrow I am off to Halfords to buy the same ball joint remover you had. You would think hitting the thing with a lump hammer would do the job. Is there some thing I am missing? Yours desperately Mr D Dastardly. PS Muttly has been no help at all.
Have a look through my other vw t4 playlist videos , I may have made another video of this. What I do nowadays is wedge a crowbar/nailbar under it to put it under pressure, stand on the crowbar so it has a fair amount of pressure on it and then "gently" tap the bit that the ball joint threaded taper goes through with the biggest sledge hammer that I have, long handle so you can reach it when you are in the air on a crowbar. You don't actually need the seperator. The trick is to have it under extreme pressure and then deform the taper socket momentarily with a blow of a hammer. Another time on a passat I found that pressure and a sharp blow with a carpenters hammer had the desired effect rather than a lump hammer, although maybe the 100+ blows of a lump hammer had loosened it. The first time I did this job on my T4, outside on the street, basically in the gutter on a road in Bristol 10 years ago with none of the correct tools i bought progressively larger tools from halfords one by one and eventually got the bastard off. Halfords are good in that they will let you return anything if it looks ok and has the packaging. Good luck, let me know how you get on.
That was great. Thanks man!
No bother
Dude, to think you could undo the l/c/a ball joint mounts by smashing a flat screwdriver head into the spline socket of the bolt kinda made me want to stop watching instantly. I watched further waiting for you to hurt yourself, sad but true!
awful design on the t4's,
way to much adjustment on the front end,torsion bar and too many joints etc to go bad
over engineered really.