Intellitronics makes some of the nice choices out there going back decades. (Note; disconnect battery negative before starting installation or wire repairs) Wiring; Lay everything out, read the book and count the connections needed plus some extras. I hate scotch locs because you have to be drinking to use these. They cut stands of wire off inside the insulation, reducing signal or amps that pass, or create a cut wire. Go to your local salvage yard, find a Silverado, Tahoe or something 2000 up. Just millions of trucks and Vans. Yes, take a set of "TORX" head bits, that go inside screws, remove the dash and find a "Matched" pair of male / female connectors (The plastic part) that has enough wires & terminals inside each. Sometimes a cavity is not used, just make sure if you need 12, the connector has 12-14 or 16. Cut it back with 6 inches or more. This gives you plenty to hold onto and work with. Now, carefully strip the insulation back about 3/4" to expose good wire. Buy some shrink tubing at a home improvement store because it is half the price of parts stores. Black electric tape and black weatherstrip adhesive. Diaphragm / Schematic, call it what you want but draw it on paper and never use a bigger wire from instrument cluster and attach to smaller gage (AWG) wire in connector. Small wires limit amperage, so drawn out on paper, cut shrink tubing from 3/4" - 1" depending on your skill level. Prepare to solder the cluster to one side off the connector you harvested. Lay the exposed copper strands (3/4") at the middle and form an "X". Hold one side pinched by fingers, twist the other free wire on the exposed part until tight. If it wraps over the insulation, use side cutters and snip the overlap off. Grab the twist side and turn the opposite way until complete. Same as before, if to much hangs out, clip off that much. The trick here is to have it thin and tight, simply twisted together. Soldering requires solder (Rosin Core uses a cleaner that won't eat the copper) acid core or acid flux will or may. Just ask at the store, tell them you are soldering wire. Practice if needed or watch videos. You do not need more that a Harbor Freight soldering gun for $15-$25. That's it! Place the soldering gun on the back of the twisted wire pair, add solder onto the tip from an angle and it will smoke a little then you will see the solder turn the copper wire silver in color. Move to the far end to cover all of that joined wire. Wear gloves as heat moves down thru copper. (NOTE; The factory connector may have silver wire, that is pre-tinned and May solder easier.) If you leave the factory connector alone in your car and save the dash (Instrument Panel) it can be reinstalled if trading in or selling later, works fine. The car side harness can be pulled out enough to use stripper pliers (Barrow Some) once each have 1/4" - 3/8" exposed, place the last connector in wire to wire and twist in place. (NOTE; if soldering inside the car / truck, place an old bath towel, small rug or cardboard on floor to catch solder that may drop) this keeps from melting into the carpet or britches. Once correct color of wires all soldered and cooled, cut tape about 1 1/2" long, start on either end and cover exposed wire until complete. Use a dab of weatherstrip adhesive to seal the end of the tape splice. Put some on the sticky side, roll on the wire until end, wipe over the tape. It will not unravel. I have seen scotch-loc connectors fail way to many times to every trust them. But do what you think is best. Reattach battery negative. If side post, snug to hand tight with 4" wrench. They are 5/16" and if possible, use a 6 point wrench or socket. DK, ASE master since 1978
Looks Like a Hairy Situation. Im a be looking for the res of your videos on this. My OchoQuatro has no gauge cluster. I really want to be seeing my fuel capacity, RPMS and Speed. My fan is straight to the fuse box on all the time. I would like to regulate that with a ETC and Not Spend Alot more since I cant Find a OEM affordable Cluster.
How did you tighten the oil pressure sender? Can't get a wrench on it, can't get a crows foot on it, can't grab it with pliers. I got it as tight as I could with my hand and put blue loctite on it. We are installing one in the girlfriends 85SS today/tomorrow.
I grabbed a 16 cavity connector from the dash cluster of a 2003 Tahoe. Wire to wire with an extra or two! Great for future expansion. Just solder in and shrink tube the connection up to the back of the connector! Makes it easy in or out. Just thinking out loud as I always think of easy future service. DK
Intellitronics makes some of the nice choices out there going back decades.
(Note; disconnect battery negative before starting installation or wire repairs)
Wiring; Lay everything out, read the book and count the connections needed plus some extras. I hate scotch locs because you have to be drinking to use these. They cut stands of wire off inside the insulation, reducing signal or amps that pass, or create a cut wire.
Go to your local salvage yard, find a Silverado, Tahoe or something 2000 up. Just millions of trucks and Vans. Yes, take a set of "TORX" head bits, that go inside screws, remove the dash and find a "Matched" pair of male / female connectors (The plastic part) that has enough wires & terminals inside each. Sometimes a cavity is not used, just make sure if you need 12, the connector has 12-14 or 16. Cut it back with 6 inches or more. This gives you plenty to hold onto and work with. Now, carefully strip the insulation back about 3/4" to expose good wire. Buy some shrink tubing at a home improvement store because it is half the price of parts stores. Black electric tape and black weatherstrip adhesive.
Diaphragm / Schematic, call it what you want but draw it on paper and never use a bigger wire from instrument cluster and attach to smaller gage (AWG) wire in connector. Small wires limit amperage, so drawn out on paper, cut shrink tubing from 3/4" - 1" depending on your skill level. Prepare to solder the cluster to one side off the connector you harvested. Lay the exposed copper strands (3/4") at the middle and form an "X". Hold one side pinched by fingers, twist the other free wire on the exposed part until tight. If it wraps over the insulation, use side cutters and snip the overlap off. Grab the twist side and turn the opposite way until complete. Same as before, if to much hangs out, clip off that much. The trick here is to have it thin and tight, simply twisted together.
Soldering requires solder (Rosin Core uses a cleaner that won't eat the copper) acid core or acid flux will or may. Just ask at the store, tell them you are soldering wire. Practice if needed or watch videos. You do not need more that a Harbor Freight soldering gun for $15-$25. That's it!
Place the soldering gun on the back of the twisted wire pair, add solder onto the tip from an angle and it will smoke a little then you will see the solder turn the copper wire silver in color. Move to the far end to cover all of that joined wire. Wear gloves as heat moves down thru copper. (NOTE; The factory connector may have silver wire, that is pre-tinned and May solder easier.)
If you leave the factory connector alone in your car and save the dash (Instrument Panel) it can be reinstalled if trading in or selling later, works fine.
The car side harness can be pulled out enough to use stripper pliers (Barrow Some) once each have 1/4" - 3/8" exposed, place the last connector in wire to wire and twist in place. (NOTE; if soldering inside the car / truck, place an old bath towel, small rug or cardboard on floor to catch solder that may drop) this keeps from melting into the carpet or britches.
Once correct color of wires all soldered and cooled, cut tape about 1 1/2" long, start on either end and cover exposed wire until complete. Use a dab of weatherstrip adhesive to seal the end of the tape splice. Put some on the sticky side, roll on the wire until end, wipe over the tape. It will not unravel.
I have seen scotch-loc connectors fail way to many times to every trust them. But do what you think is best. Reattach battery negative. If side post, snug to hand tight with 4" wrench. They are 5/16" and if possible, use a 6 point wrench or socket.
DK, ASE master since 1978
Came thru homie, rite on time yea. Been searching for diagram info for a min, and u mentioned it in video.. sho do preciated mane.. frfr...
Looks Like a Hairy Situation. Im a be looking for the res of your videos on this. My OchoQuatro has no gauge cluster. I really want to be seeing my fuel capacity, RPMS and Speed. My fan is straight to the fuse box on all the time. I would like to regulate that with a ETC and Not Spend Alot more since I cant Find a OEM affordable Cluster.
Good 👍🏾 job thanks
How did you tighten the oil pressure sender? Can't get a wrench on it, can't get a crows foot on it, can't grab it with pliers. I got it as tight as I could with my hand and put blue loctite on it. We are installing one in the girlfriends 85SS today/tomorrow.
What adapters do I need that doesn’t comes with dash?
What about alternator
How did you wire the fuel sender and left right turn signals? Thanks
Bout to put mine in today
I grabbed a 16 cavity connector from the dash cluster of a 2003 Tahoe. Wire to wire with an extra or two! Great for future expansion. Just solder in and shrink tube the connection up to the back of the connector! Makes it easy in or out.
Just thinking out loud as I always think of easy future service. DK
@@deankay4434 good to know
Can you show how you did the speedometer wiring? My son just picked up an 84 and he has digital gauges. The speedometer is WAY off.
Have u tried to calibrate it with the little black button?
That clip your holding at 4:41 do you know what it is called
How did it turn out
Can I still use the intellitronix digital dash if my printed circuit board is fucked?
You shouldn't need the printed circuit. You can wire the gauges off the plug going to the circuit