If you use the exact combo of adapters and ratchet used in this video it's a 15 minute job, did it last night with the help of this video- i also replaced the screen. If you hold your old screen up to the light you will see how after so many miles the screen is actually plugged up in some spots. I used a large ez out in the reverse direction to grab hold of the filter to pull it out, installed the new filter and sensor, cleared the fault code- started it up and magically my gauge is working again. Thanks for making this video.
Just a shout out about this video. The details about where to place your hand and insert the tool and the effort needed to break the sensor loose was most helpful. Yes ... I too was afraid I was going to break it off. Just make sure to keep the wobble/extension rig as vertical and stable as possible, especially when using a standard 27mm socket. Bad things happen when it gets cocked to one side. I did remove the brake booster vacuum line and was able to get my lobster claw of a hand in place. There is more room there than I had thought. One tool I did use was an inspection camera placed on the passenger side in order to find the connection locking tab, aid in placing the socket over the sensor and orienting the new sensor to prevent cross-threading. And for those of you who cannot fold and fit under the hood, I use an old couch cushion to lay on to prevent impaling myself on exposed objects. Again, I appreciate the effort you took to produce the video and post it.
With the help of the video, changing the sensor wasn't as bad as it appeared. My nephews engine needed to idle for about 4 minutes before the gauge started working. Thanks.
Thanks a lot!!! Nailed it!! For some reason to me it was hard understanding the little clip.. u want to aim for the center of the black one, that’s where u need to slightly press it and push up towards the hood..
Hey thanks for the tutorial. I struggled a lot with the clip because there was an additional white (security?) clip holding the quick disconnect on. Overall as expected (by me), it took a couple hours of wiggling and playing to get the change out completed and clear the codes. Well worth the time and effort $68 part about $45 in tools 1/2' drive deep well 1 1/16" socket, universal joint, 3" extension, and standard ratchet. I probably saved about $200 after these purchases. Well worth the cost and effort.
Thank you. I have been looking for the size of the old sensor. I need to get a 1- 1/16 hollow socket. Mine won't fit over the old sensor. The new one I bought is 19mm which I have. The stock one is a larger size. Thanks
How did it go, Alan? I have water in my oil cap so the mechanics are taking a look in a few days otherwise my buddy and I would be pulling the sensor and screen out.
@ 6:11 the black plastic you can see in the bottom of the hole IS the screen that you said you were not able to see. Most folks use a small pick to hook into it and pull it out, but I took a tip from another video and used a 1/4" coarse thread lag bolt about 4" long and screwed it into the plastic with my fingers only, then pulled it out. That worked well but I hear the pick works easily too...just didn't have one handy. People say that screen can get clogged preventing the oil from getting to the pressure switch. Other than that I did it the same way as shown here except I couldn't get the special 1 1/16th" sensor socket to go down onto the hex part of the sensor so I ended up using a regular 1 1/16" (6 point) deep well socket and it went on pretty easily. Both sockets fit fine with the part removed. I think that plastic cover was hitting the side of the socket and my regular deep well socket was probably a little thinner walled. Once it was done I still had low pressure that fluctuated when I hit the gas from about 15-35lbs. I'm wondering if I should have poked something down in that hole to clear any possible sludge out, or if I should drop the pan and check the feeder tube O ring. I've heard that is also a common cause as well as the oil pump or possibly wrong oil and/or filter. I'm not a mechanic and not looking forward to the O ring or especially the pump. If anyone knows if you can replace the pump through the bottom of the timing cover after the pan is off (without removing the timing cover), I'd be interested in any tips. I heard someone imply that it was possible, but they didn't elaborate.
Type your question into google with your model, year, engine and add the word FORUM. It will bring up hobbiest websites with conversations. All the answers are there..lol. The LS platform is everywhere. Good luck!
My mechanic wants 350 to changed my oil sensor i just watch ur video i look easy i think am gona give it a try great video tho i might changed the filter too they said is good to changed too
Because a mechanic is trained and has the appropriate tools and has to pay for shop expenses that's why plus he is getting the parts and has the socket
Yes, include the screen replacement, it's often the root cause of gauge issues. Just a terrible place to get to the sensor. I'm doing mine as part of intake gasket replacement even though it's reading ok. Very easy with the intake off.
At 6:5 you can see the filter that most times causes the problem. It is the black part down into the tunnel. At that point you take a pick to snag it with and pull straight up and out.
Great video! I have done several including one on a 2009 GMC Yukon Denali yesterday. I am impressed you didn't move any of the hoses. Maybe the 6.2L V8 is a little bigger or set back more. I had to disconnect a few hoses, but still took only about 30-40 minutes. Intake removal is a crazy thought.
I thought I was gonna have to till I realized I could fit my hand back there. Most of the videos I watched, they took a whole bunch of stuff off and I was trying to avoid that. The little peep hole helped out a lot also. Thanks
I think the yukon is a bit different, I think the firewall is tighter, I just did mine last night. The OEM socket just wouldn't work too tall, I used a 1/2 wrench a, adapter(1/2->3/8) and a 3/8 wobble extension(lets you work nearly vertical behind plastic shroud) and LISLE socket 13250.
I was having oil pressure problems and replaced the o-ring on oil pick up tube and replaced oil pan gasket....still not 100%....going to change the oil pressure sensor but cant get my big hands back there....plus my truck is lifted so that doesn't help.....but this video was very helpful and will give it a other shot next weekend.
Gustavo Maldonado it was normally 30-60 psi then it dropped to 0-20 psi...I changed the o ring and oil pan gasket and it runs between 40-60 psi and occasionally drops to 30-35 so I think there is still something going on with oil pressure sensor
Your going to want to make sure and replace or take out the filter inside it could be dirty and clogged. When I bought my sensor it came with a new filter. Got the old one out with a pick tool.
Figured that was the top of it, if it doesn't screw in u could probably use a curved pick to pull it straight up, I don't really plan on changing it unless I have another issue though, appreciate it
Checked with the local dealer in town.. they wanted to charge me $400.00 , stated they needed to take off the intake to replace the sending unit.. I completed this in 45 min... most of that time was spent getting the hose off above the sensor... That is the only one you need to remove to get the sensor out... don't let anyone else fool you...
Great video, BTW I noticed the low washer fluid warning on the dash. Yours may just be low but mine would always stay on. I learned that products like Rainx actually gunks up the level sensor. I had to drain the reservoir and clean it and the sensor to get the error to go away.
I think I can see the screen at 6:06, it looks clean from this angle. This week I spent some time trying to blindly fish out a screen in a 2000 Suburban with a pick, no luck. Evidently the screen is not present in the older LM7 engines, but is present in the 2007.
Do yourself a favor and get the LISLE socket, same price but it's shorter and fits better than the OEM Autozone one. They carry it at Oriellys. This was my setup I used last night. used a 1/2 wrench a, adapter(1/2->3/8) and a 3/8 wobble extension(lets you work nearly vertical behind plastic shroud) and LISLE socket 13250.
@@learzietaraz . Also use a 3 inch bolt with thread to remove screen, put it down in hole and screw it wiggle it up and it will come out. Its not very smart not to remove screen , sometimes and most of the time is the problem. GM and their stupid engineering ideas to create another step.
Solid video, thanks Bro. Question, I do a lot of driving. Sensor went dead 3 days ago, fluids are good. Was hoping to change out this weekend. Would that cause more problems?
Buy the socket. not just a deep socket. autozone sells the oil pressure sensor socket. also gonna need fuel line/ac line disconnect tool. its a chevy, nothing just slides off.
I'm trying to replace the oil sending unit (OSU) on a 2007 H2 Hummer 6.0 L vortec engine.. I have the new OSU and special 1- 1/16th deep socket for removal. My problem is I'm a big guy and I can't even get my hand back there to remove the electrical connector off of the sensor to even attempt to replace it. Keep in mind on the H2 Hummer the hood lift straight up and stays at a 90° angle when open so you can only work from the sides of the vehicle / engine bay. I've attempted to get back in there with a flashlight but there is the fuel rail in the way, evap lines, electrical wires etc. So Any suggestions from an experience mechanic that has done this before on my particular vehicle? Any input, photos, suggestions would be appreciated. This is truly a nightmare to get done. I need some guidance Thanks in advance 👍🇺🇸💪
Great video I'm about to change mine I curious does the filter come out easy with needle nose pliers or something else needed to pull it out?? Also I'm sure I'm not alone when I say that I would love to meet the goofball engineering crew who designed this motor and give them a slap up side the head for putting this behind the motor. And the #8 spark plug too which is just as hard to change. Thanks for the video
Thanks, I'm not sure about the filter becouse I didn't know about replacing it till after I had already installed the sensor, but if the needle nose pliers don't work maybe a mechanic pick with an angled or hooked end might work to catch the side and allow it to be pulled up, that is if it pulls straight up. I'm not sure how it's set in there. Sorry
I just did this job, I doubt you could get needle nose pliers back there, some people use a dental pick/hook. I used a 8inch threaded bolt, and you work it into the middle of the filter(you can test fit your bolt with the new filter you buy.) I also used the bolt to put the new filter in, as I couldn't get my hands near the hole(and I didn't trust myself to not drop it, as I lost my old pressure switch back there when removing it.)
Yeah GM should have built a manifold for it so it's up above the engine so it's easier to get at but these are the times when most all cars trucks are designed so most can't work on them anymore and that's the way the manufacturers want it so you have to pay them a ton of money to fix it if it's out of warranty . It seems like this problem has been a on going thing on these LS engines for some years and you would think that there would have been a recall or GM at least redesigning it so it's easier to get at or at least improve the damn sensor but like most things made now it comes from China or Mexico so it's junk to begin with lol !
I am experiencing low oil pressure at operating temp. 18# @ idle. Going to replace sending unit, but I am thinking it's the filter below, so that's going in as well. Good video, wish my hands were smaller...
I never looked to much into the filter but if I knew more about it then I would have changed it also, I guess I got lucky just having to change the sensor out. Thanks, and good luck with the filter.
@@thatoneguyfrom87 where is that next filter guys talk about...i changed the same unit u just did on this video and it didn't do the trick...oil pressure still drops according to the dash...next step is the filter before i go under and check the O ring from the pickup tube and oil pump :(
Replaced my filter sensor...didn't work...pressure still slowly drops all the way to 0...next step i guess is the screen filter..then onto the gaskets and oil pump :( any other recommendations?
Wish I could help but I haven't dealt with low oil pressure yet. When mine went through the roof it threw a code for the sensor and I just went from there. Wish I had looked into it further and I would have replaced the filter also. I would get with others who have dealt with that and research the crap out of it. Best of luck to you and hope it's something simple for you.
Joey Sanchez my trailblazer looses oil pressure when idling. I have had the following work done (some unrelated to this specific issue), water pump, thermostat, oil pump, oil filter, oil pan gasket, 8 spark plugs, throttle body cleaned, new battery..fired it up, oil gauge shot up above 40 then dropped to 0 and said “turn off engine”. I think the issue is the O ring on the oil pickup tube bc it will hold normal pressure even while idling once the engine is heated to operating temperature which would make since when that rubber O ring is heated and expanding its able to do its job. The down side to this is how hard it is to get to..personally I feel my mechanic should have changed this while he had everything else taken apart but it’s almost like he purposely avoided it just bc a female suggested it lol.
Joey Sanchez my trailblazer looses oil pressure when idling. I have had the following work done (some unrelated to this specific issue), water pump, thermostat, oil pump, oil filter, oil pan gasket, 8 spark plugs, throttle body cleaned, new battery..fired it up, oil gauge shot up above 40 then dropped to 0 and said “turn off engine”. I think the issue is the O ring on the oil pickup tube bc it will hold normal pressure even while idling once the engine is heated to operating temperature which would make since when that rubber O ring is heated and expanding its able to do its job. The down side to this is how hard it is to get to..personally I feel my mechanic should have changed this while he had everything else taken apart but it’s almost like he purposely avoided it just bc a female suggested it lol.
@@brittanywilson3140 i took out the filter screen and it worked...i'm assuming the filter was dirty so i cleaned it and put it back also kept working...but since i really don't feel like i need that filter there i took it out completely...if the sensor gets dirty in the future i can just clean it...or maybe i'll go buy a new filter for like 6$
I took 4 inch grinder cut that damn shield out cut slots in it took vice grip and long needle nose pliers took the front half out then i could get 2 that sender unhooked all hoses BUT watch that wad of wires back there i. Cut a couple of em i took wires about same size but made em longer striped the ends taped em back runs fine 2012 z71 lTZ good luck
Oil pressure gauge eradicate reading. Faulty electric send from sensor. Low pressure reading will trigger warning to shut down engine immediately. A manual gauge on engine front would verify true read. Bad read leaving operator in doubt to problem. Sending unit should be of much higher quality. Really difficult access,,, unless you are on the tall side or know plastic man. An hour of scrapped knuckles and sore back twisting to get to a pain in the rear area. Same thing with auto transmission filter change. The crossing pipe in way of ten minute job by 1/2” additional hour necessary. Stuff should be made to service. Not a difficult struggle.
@@MichaelSmith-nh1rc so i took out the filter screen and it worked...ordered a new one to put back on as soon as it comes in....not sure what the purpose of that filter is if u can just clean the sensor and it would work that way...but either way...it's back to normal ...
@@jsanz11 At 6:07, the black that is deep in the threaded metal is the filter. Hook or pick tool to fish it out, pop new one into place, and Bobs your uncle.
I work at Chevy I've done many not all of these engines have the filter screen under the sensor only the ones with the cylinder deactivation. What I do if shine a light in the whole and a mirror if you dont see nothing it is not equipped with one. If it was you would notice it it's pretty noticeable as stated it just pops up and fish out with a pick
There was no screen filter made for some vehicles I called the dealer for my 2000 Silverado and they told me that it does not have a screen filter for my vehicle specifically some do have the filter though
If you use the exact combo of adapters and ratchet used in this video it's a 15 minute job, did it last night with the help of this video- i also replaced the screen. If you hold your old screen up to the light you will see how after so many miles the screen is actually plugged up in some spots. I used a large ez out in the reverse direction to grab hold of the filter to pull it out, installed the new filter and sensor, cleared the fault code- started it up and magically my gauge is working again. Thanks for making this video.
What size socket????
Just a shout out about this video. The details about where to place your hand and insert the tool and the effort needed to break the sensor loose was most helpful. Yes ... I too was afraid I was going to break it off. Just make sure to keep the wobble/extension rig as vertical and stable as possible, especially when using a standard 27mm socket. Bad things happen when it gets cocked to one side.
I did remove the brake booster vacuum line and was able to get my lobster claw of a hand in place. There is more room there than I had thought.
One tool I did use was an inspection camera placed on the passenger side in order to find the connection locking tab, aid in placing the socket over the sensor and orienting the new sensor to prevent cross-threading. And for those of you who cannot fold and fit under the hood, I use an old couch cushion to lay on to prevent impaling myself on exposed objects.
Again, I appreciate the effort you took to produce the video and post it.
Man! You should do voice acting work for cartoons. You have such a unique way of speaking. Good video too.
Bruh, I thought it was Yogi Bear narrating this the whole time 🤣🤣
With the help of the video, changing the sensor wasn't as bad as it appeared. My nephews engine needed to idle for about 4 minutes before the gauge started working. Thanks.
Thanks, good video. I just replaced mine today on my 2007 Silverado doing it the same way. Took about 45min start to finish.
Thanks a lot!!! Nailed it!! For some reason to me it was hard understanding the little clip.. u want to aim for the center of the black one, that’s where u need to slightly press it and push up towards the hood..
Hey thanks for the tutorial. I struggled a lot with the clip because there was an additional white (security?) clip holding the quick disconnect on. Overall as expected (by me), it took a couple hours of wiggling and playing to get the change out completed and clear the codes. Well worth the time and effort $68 part about $45 in tools 1/2' drive deep well 1 1/16" socket, universal joint, 3" extension, and standard ratchet. I probably saved about $200 after these purchases. Well worth the cost and effort.
Thank you. I have been looking for the size of the old sensor. I need to get a 1- 1/16 hollow socket. Mine won't fit over the old sensor. The new one I bought is 19mm which I have. The stock one is a larger size. Thanks
Thanks for a great, clear job. I am soing mine tomorrow but with screen replacement also. I particularly appreciate your showing which tools you used.
How did it go, Alan? I have water in my oil cap so the mechanics are taking a look in a few days otherwise my buddy and I would be pulling the sensor and screen out.
@ 6:11 the black plastic you can see in the bottom of the hole IS the screen that you said you were not able to see. Most folks use a small pick to hook into it and pull it out, but I took a tip from another video and used a 1/4" coarse thread lag bolt about 4" long and screwed it into the plastic with my fingers only, then pulled it out. That worked well but I hear the pick works easily too...just didn't have one handy. People say that screen can get clogged preventing the oil from getting to the pressure switch.
Other than that I did it the same way as shown here except I couldn't get the special 1 1/16th" sensor socket to go down onto the hex part of the sensor so I ended up using a regular 1 1/16" (6 point) deep well socket and it went on pretty easily. Both sockets fit fine with the part removed. I think that plastic cover was hitting the side of the socket and my regular deep well socket was probably a little thinner walled.
Once it was done I still had low pressure that fluctuated when I hit the gas from about 15-35lbs. I'm wondering if I should have poked something down in that hole to clear any possible sludge out, or if I should drop the pan and check the feeder tube O ring. I've heard that is also a common cause as well as the oil pump or possibly wrong oil and/or filter. I'm not a mechanic and not looking forward to the O ring or especially the pump.
If anyone knows if you can replace the pump through the bottom of the timing cover after the pan is off (without removing the timing cover), I'd be interested in any tips. I heard someone imply that it was possible, but they didn't elaborate.
Type your question into google with your model, year, engine and add the word FORUM. It will bring up hobbiest websites with conversations. All the answers are there..lol. The LS platform is everywhere. Good luck!
My mechanic wants 350 to changed my oil sensor i just watch ur video i look easy i think am gona give it a try great video tho i might changed the filter too they said is good to changed too
Because a mechanic is trained and has the appropriate tools and has to pay for shop expenses that's why plus he is getting the parts and has the socket
@@pitbullkngz7236 yeah soo i did it and didn't had to pay 350 😬😬 and took me 20 mins
@@6.oooostroke plus the part and you now own a new tool
Yes, include the screen replacement, it's often the root cause of gauge issues. Just a terrible place to get to the sensor. I'm doing mine as part of intake gasket replacement even though it's reading ok. Very easy with the intake off.
Great video Man! You did a nice side attempt..(mean while shops are removing half the motor to get access) Great Job 👍💯
Thanks for doing this video man, helped me and my buddy out with the same fix. Your country draw made it even more fun to listen to! Thanks again
Great job brother. I’m gonna give it a try. You’re humble as all get out bro. God bless you.
Best video i seen on this. Very well explained. Thank you so much
Thank you for the video! Made the job much easier. "That one guy" did it this way...and it works like a charm!
At 6:5 you can see the filter that most times causes the problem. It is the black part down into the tunnel. At that point you take a pick to snag it with and pull straight up and out.
Great video!
I have done several including one on a 2009 GMC Yukon Denali yesterday. I am impressed you didn't move any of the hoses. Maybe the 6.2L V8 is a little bigger or set back more. I had to disconnect a few hoses, but still took only about 30-40 minutes. Intake removal is a crazy thought.
I thought I was gonna have to till I realized I could fit my hand back there. Most of the videos I watched, they took a whole bunch of stuff off and I was trying to avoid that. The little peep hole helped out a lot also. Thanks
I think the yukon is a bit different, I think the firewall is tighter, I just did mine last night. The OEM socket just wouldn't work too tall,
I used a 1/2 wrench a, adapter(1/2->3/8) and a 3/8 wobble extension(lets you work nearly vertical behind plastic shroud) and LISLE socket 13250.
Yea, I do NOT want to take the intake off to do this…
Thanks for the video it really helped. Man that's suckers hard to get loose.
You seriously don't talk like that right... good video is really helpful thanks 👍
lol fucker sounds like yogi bears slack jawed brother
@@Carlzday hey there yoge
Your video helped me out a ton yesterday. Thank you!
I was having oil pressure problems and replaced the o-ring on oil pick up tube and replaced oil pan gasket....still not 100%....going to change the oil pressure sensor but cant get my big hands back there....plus my truck is lifted so that doesn't help.....but this video was very helpful and will give it a other shot next weekend.
dashcam dummies where is your oil pressure reading normally?
Gustavo Maldonado it was normally 30-60 psi then it dropped to 0-20 psi...I changed the o ring and oil pan gasket and it runs between 40-60 psi and occasionally drops to 30-35 so I think there is still something going on with oil pressure sensor
chris kieffer was your oil pressure initially dropping when idling?
Thanks for the post. I'm doing mine in a couple days.
Hey, question. Mine went out 3 days ago, fluids are good. Plan for the weekend. Would that cause more problems?
Thanks for your info, out of all the videos i watched. The info on the type of connection help me out. Thanks.
Solid fucken video! Way better than the ones I just watched.
Your going to want to make sure and replace or take out the filter inside it could be dirty and clogged. When I bought my sensor it came with a new filter. Got the old one out with a pick tool.
Where you get the sensor that came with the filter? Price?
Al Rod autozone has them for 50
TJ N thanks 🙏🏻
Thanks homie it help alot on my yukon like your vid straight to the point.
Great vid. fyi you can actually see the filter when you placed the camera in the back with out the switch
Figured that was the top of it, if it doesn't screw in u could probably use a curved pick to pull it straight up, I don't really plan on changing it unless I have another issue though, appreciate it
Great video. I am about to replace the sensor in my 08 so this is a big help.
Thank you pop smoke - I was waiting for you to say “when it rains it pours”
🤣🤣
Checked with the local dealer in town.. they wanted to charge me $400.00 , stated they needed to take off the intake to replace the sending unit.. I completed this in 45 min... most of that time was spent getting the hose off above the sensor... That is the only one you need to remove to get the sensor out... don't let anyone else fool you...
aeneimia1 they may be going off of all data which gives info about the time spent and cost of labor too
Thanks for your help brother. I appreciate it. It helped me a lot.
Great video, BTW I noticed the low washer fluid warning on the dash. Yours may just be low but mine would always stay on. I learned that products like Rainx actually gunks up the level sensor. I had to drain the reservoir and clean it and the sensor to get the error to go away.
I appreciate the info, luckily it was just low but I do always run rainx in it, thanks again
Thanks man ,you save me me qlot time and money.
Thanks thatoneguy! Used exactly the tools you said and this job was actually quite easy
I think I can see the screen at 6:06, it looks clean from this angle. This week I spent some time trying to blindly fish out a screen in a 2000 Suburban with a pick, no luck. Evidently the screen is not present in the older LM7 engines, but is present in the 2007.
How do you get around that damn plastic shield in front of the sensor?
Best vid online for this fix. Good stuff. Thank you!
Did mine a few days ago, it was a huge pain to get my hand back there. Now I have p0172 code, fuel too rich. truck is giving me tons of headache.
Uptalk1 do you have a flex fuel ?
Great vid Thanks for the info. Dealer wanted $ 275 labor to change it I'm going to put it in myself
Do yourself a favor and get the LISLE socket, same price but it's shorter and fits better than the OEM Autozone one. They carry it at Oriellys.
This was my setup I used last night. used a 1/2 wrench a, adapter(1/2->3/8) and a 3/8 wobble extension(lets you work nearly vertical behind plastic shroud) and LISLE socket 13250.
Buy the sensor on Amazon (ac delco) 32 dollars and do it yourself and save around 240.00 the socket is around 10 dollars.... I did mine last week
Huge rip off. It probably would take the dealer less than 30 min to change it.
@@learzietaraz . Also use a 3 inch bolt with thread to remove screen, put it down in hole and screw it wiggle it up and it will come out. Its not very smart not to remove screen , sometimes and most of the time is the problem. GM and their stupid engineering ideas to create another step.
Am I the only one getting a kick out of how this guy talks? I’m fn dying over here. Good video and idk man but this shit had me rolling 🤣🤣🤣🤣.
Sir! You saved me $200 or more!
Best one yet. Thanks very much.
Great How 2 Video, Thank You.
Thanks for your time Boe. Got that shit bangd out
I bet the guys who made this design at Chevy are just having a laugh with this idea .
Yeah they'd rather you pay them $500 instead of $30 and replacing yourself dealer's are dirt bags
That was a very poor design on its placement seeing that could go in the front 😏🙄😂🤣
The only good video appreciate it
Solid video, thanks Bro. Question, I do a lot of driving. Sensor went dead 3 days ago, fluids are good. Was hoping to change out this weekend. Would that cause more problems?
Good info thx for the video , some have a weather seal at the end opposite of electrical plug you can pop out of old and put in new just a thought
Great Video
Thank you for sharing.
Buy the socket. not just a deep socket. autozone sells the oil pressure sensor socket. also gonna need fuel line/ac line disconnect tool. its a chevy, nothing just slides off.
You are awesome Brother!!! Thanks
I sure appreciate you with this video.
Great job on the video. You made it look too easy.
Good job, good video... Thanks👍
I'm trying to replace the oil sending unit (OSU) on a 2007 H2 Hummer 6.0 L vortec engine.. I have the new OSU and special 1- 1/16th deep socket for removal. My problem is I'm a big guy and I can't even get my hand back there to remove the electrical connector off of the sensor to even attempt to replace it. Keep in mind on the H2 Hummer the hood lift straight up and stays at a 90° angle when open so you can only work from the sides of the vehicle / engine bay. I've attempted to get back in there with a flashlight but there is the fuel rail in the way, evap lines, electrical wires etc. So Any suggestions from an experience mechanic that has done this before on my particular vehicle? Any input, photos, suggestions would be appreciated. This is truly a nightmare to get done. I need some guidance Thanks in advance 👍🇺🇸💪
Your video help me out a lot today preciate it
Use a hose to thread the new one its sooo much easier...My problem ended up being a bad oil filter. Oil pressure is back to normal
bad oil filter not the screen filter and sensor?
@@jsanz11 surprisingly enough. Im guessing the bypass was stuck on the filter. Mobile 1 too..been fine for a week now!!
Good job. But, it would have been nice if you had advised the size of the socket.
27mm
Great video
I'm about to change mine I curious does the filter come out easy with needle nose pliers or something else needed to pull it out??
Also I'm sure I'm not alone when I say that I would love to meet the goofball engineering crew who designed this motor and give them a slap up side the head for putting this behind the motor. And the #8 spark plug too which is just as hard to change. Thanks for the video
Thanks, I'm not sure about the filter becouse I didn't know about replacing it till after I had already installed the sensor, but if the needle nose pliers don't work maybe a mechanic pick with an angled or hooked end might work to catch the side and allow it to be pulled up, that is if it pulls straight up. I'm not sure how it's set in there. Sorry
I just did this job, I doubt you could get needle nose pliers back there, some people use a dental pick/hook. I used a 8inch threaded bolt, and you work it into the middle of the filter(you can test fit your bolt with the new filter you buy.) I also used the bolt to put the new filter in, as I couldn't get my hands near the hole(and I didn't trust myself to not drop it, as I lost my old pressure switch back there when removing it.)
Yeah GM should have built a manifold for it so it's up above the engine so it's easier to get at but these are the times when most all cars trucks are designed so most can't work on them anymore and that's the way the manufacturers want it so you have to pay them a ton of money to fix it if it's out of warranty . It seems like this problem has been a on going thing on these LS engines for some years and you would think that there would have been a recall or GM at least redesigning it so it's easier to get at or at least improve the damn sensor but like most things made now it comes from China or Mexico so it's junk to begin with lol !
Hey Bro thanks for the video.
Good video thanks
Awesome!
What happens if I drop the socket piece behind that plastic cover on the back? The socket drop so deep I cannot see it anymore and can’t retrieve it.
Great video thanks man
Thank you!
Very helpful video. Thank you
Good Video. Thank You.
6:05 THAT IS THE FILTER RIGHT THERE!! you got to get it out with something like pick or pliers.
Good video good editing. FYI anytime a check engine light is on the only way to clear it is with a scan tool.
You can touch the + and - together after disconnecting the battery to reset the computer, which will reset any codes as well.
mengel420 mind blown I’ll try that. There are always different ways of doing something. Good deal thanks ...
Universal soldier that’s false information!
Dude sound crazy
thanks.... how do you know if the oil pump is acting up instead of the sensor ?
you shouldn't have 80psi when just turning the key to the on position, that how you know the sensor is bad
If you see two blue pieces and a white clip on the sensor, good luck trying to get it off
I am experiencing low oil pressure at operating temp. 18# @ idle. Going to replace sending unit, but I am thinking it's the filter below, so that's going in as well. Good video, wish my hands were smaller...
I never looked to much into the filter but if I knew more about it then I would have changed it also, I guess I got lucky just having to change the sensor out. Thanks, and good luck with the filter.
@@thatoneguyfrom87 where is that next filter guys talk about...i changed the same unit u just did on this video and it didn't do the trick...oil pressure still drops according to the dash...next step is the filter before i go under and check the O ring from the pickup tube and oil pump :(
Joey Sanchez does your oil pressure only drop when idling?
@Joey Sanchez it's under the sensor remove and look in the hole not all engines have it I've done several where there not equipped with it
I'll lay odds that the pickup tube o ring is your culprit.
Excellent help man! :-D
"Unless you're extremely tall" 😂
A lot of times it seams to be this screen plugging up , can a guy just pull the screen filter and get rid of it completely???
Replaced my filter sensor...didn't work...pressure still slowly drops all the way to 0...next step i guess is the screen filter..then onto the gaskets and oil pump :( any other recommendations?
Wish I could help but I haven't dealt with low oil pressure yet. When mine went through the roof it threw a code for the sensor and I just went from there. Wish I had looked into it further and I would have replaced the filter also. I would get with others who have dealt with that and research the crap out of it. Best of luck to you and hope it's something simple for you.
Joey Sanchez my trailblazer looses oil pressure when idling. I have had the following work done (some unrelated to this specific issue), water pump, thermostat, oil pump, oil filter, oil pan gasket, 8 spark plugs, throttle body cleaned, new battery..fired it up, oil gauge shot up above 40 then dropped to 0 and said “turn off engine”. I think the issue is the O ring on the oil pickup tube bc it will hold normal pressure even while idling once the engine is heated to operating temperature which would make since when that rubber O ring is heated and expanding its able to do its job. The down side to this is how hard it is to get to..personally I feel my mechanic should have changed this while he had everything else taken apart but it’s almost like he purposely avoided it just bc a female suggested it lol.
Joey Sanchez my trailblazer looses oil pressure when idling. I have had the following work done (some unrelated to this specific issue), water pump, thermostat, oil pump, oil filter, oil pan gasket, 8 spark plugs, throttle body cleaned, new battery..fired it up, oil gauge shot up above 40 then dropped to 0 and said “turn off engine”. I think the issue is the O ring on the oil pickup tube bc it will hold normal pressure even while idling once the engine is heated to operating temperature which would make since when that rubber O ring is heated and expanding its able to do its job. The down side to this is how hard it is to get to..personally I feel my mechanic should have changed this while he had everything else taken apart but it’s almost like he purposely avoided it just bc a female suggested it lol.
@@brittanywilson3140 i took out the filter screen and it worked...i'm assuming the filter was dirty so i cleaned it and put it back also kept working...but since i really don't feel like i need that filter there i took it out completely...if the sensor gets dirty in the future i can just clean it...or maybe i'll go buy a new filter for like 6$
I took 4 inch grinder cut that damn shield out cut slots in it took vice grip and long needle nose pliers took the front half out then i could get 2 that sender unhooked all hoses BUT watch that wad of wires back there i. Cut a couple of em i took wires about same size but made em longer striped the ends taped em back runs fine 2012 z71 lTZ good luck
Why was I constantly thinking Yogi Bear was narrating this?
It looks to me like the long baffle on your air intake is cracked. At 3:44
Oil pressure gauge eradicate reading. Faulty electric send from sensor.
Low pressure reading will trigger warning to shut down engine immediately.
A manual gauge on engine front would verify true read. Bad read leaving operator in doubt to problem.
Sending unit should be of much higher quality.
Really difficult access,,, unless you are on the tall side or know plastic man.
An hour of scrapped knuckles and sore back twisting to get to a pain in the rear area.
Same thing with auto transmission filter change. The crossing pipe in way of ten minute job by 1/2” additional hour necessary.
Stuff should be made to service. Not a difficult struggle.
I can't get the freakin electrical clip off.
1 10mm nut holds the rear cover on,way easier to remove it
About how long does this take to change out?
It really depends on your technique.
Did it last month and it took about 40 minutes
You should've changed the filter screen...
where is the filter screen located?
@@jsanz11 i have to do mine on my 02 chevy suburban and have not seen body do one yet on theres
@@MichaelSmith-nh1rc so i took out the filter screen and it worked...ordered a new one to put back on as soon as it comes in....not sure what the purpose of that filter is if u can just clean the sensor and it would work that way...but either way...it's back to normal ...
@@jsanz11 At 6:07, the black that is deep in the threaded metal is the filter. Hook or pick tool to fish it out, pop new one into place, and Bobs your uncle.
I work at Chevy I've done many not all of these engines have the filter screen under the sensor only the ones with the cylinder deactivation. What I do if shine a light in the whole and a mirror if you dont see nothing it is not equipped with one. If it was you would notice it it's pretty noticeable as stated it just pops up and fish out with a pick
Dominus 23 is correct, need to change the filter under it
Impact wobble wont bind like non impact swivel
Same process in a 4.8? V8
There was no screen filter made for some vehicles I called the dealer for my 2000 Silverado and they told me that it does not have a screen filter for my vehicle specifically some do have the filter though
It's for 07 and up models
In a good way.... you sound like Crabman😂
What size of sucket do I use for that
natalio ubaldo he says it in the video
1 1/16
So I suppose I’m the only one that my 27mm literally does not fit on the sensor, it fits on my new one but it will not seat on the sensor
You can see the screen in the hole-black thing
What size socket?
PERFECT video! No BS - unlike what's filling President Brandon's diaper! Thank you!
You forgot to remove the strainer to get it clean. You will have the same problem latter.
so mines doing the same thing , but as long as she is getting oil , to hell with that gauge ..
After it runs for a couple of on of cycles it'll reset itself
Come narrate while I fix mine. That's hilarious 😂 you sound like a 70s boxer... Good video though. So
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