Timestamps and more info: 00:21 Locations of mounting screws (3 larger Phillips, 1 smaller Phillips) 01:14 Disconnect electrical connector 01:27 View of the track 01:50 Start Bench Testing 02:09 *Important*: Difference between similar parts, don't confuse them! 02:44 Factory Service Manual explanation (confusing/conflicting images) 03:57 Test #1: checking arm movement by powering the motor with 12V battery 04:50 Detail of power/ground pins #4 and #5 on motor electrical connector 05:22 Trick for connecting power and ground to the pins 06:08 Resistance safety check over pins #4 and #5 before supplying power 07:12 Supply power to motor on pins #4 and #5 to test arm movement 08:01 Test #2: check resistance over pins #3 and #2 of position sensor 08:45 FSM values for resistance checks over #3 and #2 09:26 Start of motor disassembly to check the internal parts 09:41 How to open the motor case (tamper resistant tabs) 10:21 Inside the motor 10:47 Exploring the arm position sensor potentiometer 14:21 Common internal cause of motor clicking (wormscrew gear failure) 14:56 Snapping the motor case back together 15:33 Moving the arm to the maximum "Warm" or "Cool" position for easier re-install 17:34 Notes for aligning the motor arm to the track during install 18:18 Reinstall instructions Thanks for watching, and I hope this video was helpful. Please comment with your tips, especially if you know about the arm sensor function, or also if you know any good aftermarket solutions or inter-Toyota swaps. Good luck with your repair!
Does the motor control the knob with the blue, red and white colors? or does it control the knob with the icons for face and feet air, windshield air, etc? my problem is no outside air coming in, only warm air. I want to be sure i am removing the right part/motor. Thank you
When you do the installation of the motor does it matter in what position you install it? or not? Sorry to ask so many questions it might not even be my problem since your description says "AC Noise fix" and "No heat fix" but i like to learn in case this ever happens to me. My problem like i said before is no outside air ventilation, only getting warm air and when i turn on the AC i do get AC but not enough cooling due to the heating air. I did check the hot water valve that is connected on the back of the fire wall and it is working {it opens and closes} Thank you
@@SDsailor7 This is a good question, and I don't know the answer -- I would first try "reusing" the existing grease, for example moving it back if is has piled up in one area; the reason for that approach is simply because I'm not sure what kind of grease would be appropriate for that connection (the original grease almost looks like some kind of dielectric in consistency). Deoxit would clean it up, but would it lubricate it? I'm not sure, but you can try and then just check resistance in a few combinations from the record to the terminals.
I am a retired engineer turned shadetree mechanic, so I use these types of videos for many projects. KUDOS!!! Your video is excellent!! I appreciate the steady camera, the correct grammar, and the clear explanations along with diagrams. Your production is the standard to which all youtubers should aspire.
I completely agree! I have SCOURED TH-cam for a video that could actually help me instead of confusing me and causing me to become dizzy! Yay and double yay! Subscribing now....
Excellent tutorial on diagnosing the Tacoma air-mix servo. I just had heat loss on my 2001 Tacoma & it appears that this servo is the problem... Anyway a DIY repair will save me $$$$ from an expensive auto repair. Thank you for the time to clearly explain - along with great camera work on this repair.
@@L35inColorado I just replaced servo today for a cost of $126 - took less than 1/2 hour to put back in.. Tacoma is now ready for winter... A shop would have charged about 3X this amount. Again - outstanding video !!
WOW WOW WOW, what a great video!! Love the all details...best TH-cam fix-it video. I have an '04 Tacoma with a squeaking and/or clicking sound coming from behind the glove box. I tell people it's my pet mouse. Thank you for taking the time to add the extra details and still shots. You ROCK! 👍🏼I agree with one of the comments...your voice is soothing! You've made me confident, as a middle aged woman, that I can do this! Thank you!
somebody give her a thumbs up. This literally saved me tons of time hunting for the servo mix location. Still looks like I have to rip half my panels off my '02 Taco to get to it. Symptoms: Squirrels in ac noise, constant hunting for temp unless I dial it up a notch away from max Cold/Warm, and A/C never gots to max cold. Thanks for supplying part numbers!
Such an awesome video, very descriptive and knowledgeable. I have a 2004 Tacoma myself, I love watching how to videos, and yours is by far one of the best I’ve ever seen. Thank you!
For about 2 yrs it sounded like my glovebox was sending Morse code after cold start, this makes sense why. That's a sweet tip when contacts are too close together. Thank you for the informative video.
@@ZackZane The cable that connects to blend door was pretty ez to access. I just disconnected and slid it over to about the middle to let sum heat in. Until I can a better price on part. $140 is the best local price I can find for new 1. Even the junkyard wants $55.
Same here I thought maybe just maybe it was a relay in the fuse box...but now after this watchung this awesom video I ordered my motor replacement Part from Rock Auto..I love the morse code description as I was also baffled by that peculiar sound for years. My door got stuck on the heat side all summer in Texas OMG!
@@philclinton9430 I live in Phoenix so I didn't even change it. I found out the cables are very reachable that adjust temp. Just use a pair pliers and you can move them by hand no problem.
@@H8er-Maker I hear you, however I just swapped out the part changing the arm (tense moment) then adjusted the track because the new motor different orientation. Today Hot and Cold at the flip of a Switch. A hearty Thanks goes out to L35 in Colorado...my hero!
TY for all the great Info. I have a 2001 Toyota sienna. I have this noise you talking about. Yes I got great AC but I get No hot air. It just started making this noise and no heat. I hope and think this may be my problem. This for sure a DIY job. I'm just going to take this part out and just get a new one. Again thank you for the great video and great info. 👍👍
I am troubleshooting a noise coming from under the dash in my son's 2004 Taco. This video is great. Your tutorial/troubleshooting style is refreshing and thorough. Good work. Thanks!
Excellent video! I have a 2004 xtrcab base Tacoma 2.4l You can plug the servo wire from the truck into the servo itself and use the truck voltage to manipulate the servo arm. I set the thermostat to the middle of the white sector and moved the door arm that the servo arm inserts into to get the screw holes to align. The worm gear in the original servo was broken on mine. I bought a cheap servo online and it is working great.
@@L35inColorado Very clear and detailed video. I think this is my problem because i don't get cold air or hot air. Will this be a dealer item only? Or can i find it at autozone? So thank you for the video.
@@SDsailor7 There are some aftermarket options available online, which are much less expensive than buying from the dealer. But I don't think you can find this particular part at Autozone -- you'll have better luck online. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Tomorrow i will check to see if the motor arm moves by starting the engine and turning the blend knob and also without turning on the engine. I will check on line for the motor i sure hope i don't need it and it is something simple. Thank you again for the great video!!
Very thorough and detailed, I learned a lot from this video. My temp was stuck on cold and a quick forum search said it might be this servomotor and found this video. Mine was not moving at all when switching temperatures but thankfully I was able to 'tap it' like people do with starter motors and it started working again. If it fails again I'll use this video to take it apart and clean the contacts to see if it helps before replacing it, they're not cheap!
Wow, that's great! Thanks for leaving this tip -- you're right, they are not cheap parts, so I hope your trick lasts for a long time! Maybe it till work for others too, which would be great. Thanks again for sharing : )
This was a wonderful and fully explained video on how the blend door actuator works but a bit of a warning.........that last screw tucked in the back is a BITCH to unscrew!
Using this GREAT video I replaced the Actuator - really helpful tutorial. One suggestion is to try lubricating the cable going to the underhood hot water valve, mine was pretty stiff and may have contributed to the Actuator demise. Thanks again
Hi L35, What a excellent DIY tutorial. One of the best I've seen. Your flow and attention to detail is enviable. I previously repaired mainframes, and you video and style rivaled some of the best instructional videos I've seen to date! Nice job!
I believe the part # in this video may be wrong. There are actually two servomotors on the passenger side. I think part # 87106-04010 connects directly to the blower assembly and is higher up in the dash. The part shown in this video is actually part # 87106-04030, or at least that was my experience after ordering both.
Wow, amazing video! I've been riding around with my temp stuck on freezing. Now I can manually adjust it until I'm done troubleshooting the system. Thank you so much for all the great info! I liked and subscribed. I'm looking forward to learning a lot more from you. Godspeed!
nice video! I will be taking mine out and testing it today using your electrical TS method. The other end of the cable that leads to the heater core hose, the valve does not actuate when I twist the climate control knob. It blows warm air but not hot like it use to. I will be able to eliminate the bled door actuator because of your video. Thanks a bunch, and God bless!
Thank you very much, you are very good in your explanation, instructions, and detailed with applications, it is obvious you have a grate deal of education, and experience, Thanks again, Mike
Hi. Thanks for the video and thorough explanation. I purchased my part and went to uninstall it, but how did you get to the screws toward the driver side? I can get to the screw in the front and the small screw in the back, but the two facing the middle of console are not accessible. I also have some sort of vent positioned right below the part. I am making the repair on my 2001 4Runner.
The actuator in mine appears to be hunting back and forth like can't find the right position. I'll take mine apart and check the sensing contacts (needles) before I replace it. Thank Yoiu!
I've started noticing on my 2004 that recirculate is allowing outside air in. If someone is in front with heavy exhaust or I drive by smoke it all comes into the cab even though the recirculate button is activated and lit. would this unit be the reason why outside air is coming in?
This servo you are showing is for the vent door/ flap control and not for cold & heat mixing i.e. climate control. The servo that controls the cool & hot air mixture is a different unit and for my 2004 Landcruiser Sahara is located behind the the blower & vent door ducting. To get to this particular servo you need to remove the entire dash board & i do mean everything. It is a nightmare of a job. Allocate a day and half but it is the only way to get the climate control to operate properly.
No, this video is for the '01 Tacoma's HVAC system, not the '04 Landcruiser, and the servo shown is the Air Mix servo on the '01 Tacoma. It is a well-known fault on the Tacoma. Your Landcruiser will have different servos, and servos in different locations because the HVAC system on the Landcruiser is much more complicated than the Tacoma's, and the system has automatic features that the Tacoma doesn't have, which means more motors and more complication. I haven't done that job on a Landcruiser, but I have done servo jobs Mercedes (MB's have very complicated HVAC systems) and I know what you mean -- MB puts those servos deep inside the dash and you must remove the entire dash to service them. It is a huge pain, like you said. From what you're saying, it sounds like Toyota did the same thing for the Landcruiser, which is really a hassle! I'm sorry that you're having that problem with your Landcruiser. Those servo's are cheap, either ($$). Good luck with your repair -- I know how you feel : )
Hey. I found out that my blend door aculator is out of order/cycle. I searched so much on TH-cam and google. My aculator would think that it is on max cold or hot but be on the wrong direction it is pointing at. When I try to align it to the flips it does not match/fit. Is there any way to reset the aculator. Thank you for you support.
Awesome video, very helpful. Anyone have any advice on how to get the actuator control are off of the original actuator? Tried pressing the tab down as described in the video but having no luck. It’s on there solid and I’m worried I’ll be out of luck if I break it
I don't have a motor on hand, but I remember having to press the little white tab that holds the arm keyed to the shaft, and then used a flat pry under the arm to give it a little encouragement to move up. You don't have to remove the arm to open the case and inspect/replace parts inside -- you can leave it in place and just pop open the black tabs on the sides of the case. You do have to be VERY careful, though, for all the parts because as you know they are plastic, and they are also old, so things get brittle. Good luck!
Great video. The servo on my 3rd gen 4runner is failing so I just installed a new servo from NAPA. Still having the same issue where the arm gets stuck and will move randomly until I fiddle with the thermostat. Anyone have an idea what to troubleshoot next?
Hey, do you know if it's located at the same position in an 05 Seqouia? I used my heater yesterday for the first time since last winter and I can't turn it off anymore. I believe this is my issue.
I am having trouble with this. My servo motor when plugged into the wireing harness only turns a little bit when turned to heat then gets stuck and continues to try to move in that direction (motor doesn’t turn off) then when I change to cold it turns about 360 degrees then stops. I took a video and posted on my channel. If you have any ideas as to why this is happening I’d appreciate the help. I don’t want to install it and then damage somthing because the motor won’t stop going
You could tell me a massive asteroid is going to end life on the planet in three hours but with that calming voice of yours I’d be like “ok, I’ll try finish this up before impact!” Just sayin.
Haha! I try to talk calmly because it helps me, too! And, I agree -- I'd want to try to get the job done by the time the asteroid hits, too, just in case it misses! Thanks for your comment : )
I dont have the anoying clicking noise but when i actuate the know for heat the heater water valve does not stay open so i will have to fix the actuator or buy a new one? And probably they are only a dealer item. Bummer :-(
Hi there! I have a 2005 Toyota rav4, heater doesn't work and i found out that the white arm is stuck in cold mode. I took out the actuator, opened it up and cleaned it. It won't work. I purchased another one, doesn't work again. I don't know how to actually test my actuators because I don't have the equipment shown at the beginning of the video.. i was wondering if the actuator's white arm has to be placed in a certain position before connecting it to the car in order to make it move. I'm a bit desperated, please could you give me some help? I would hugely appreciate it thank you
The confusion on the warm/cool is due to the double arrow. they are showing that to go to warm the arrow goes from bottom to top CW, and to switch to cool it will go down CC. understand ??
I'm sorry I missed your comment - I made this video a couple years ago, so I reviewed that part at 03:15 upon seeing your comment: I'm still not clear with why the FSM labeled the second image with the double-ended arrow and used the perforated outline of the arm at the lower/8 o'clock position on that second image. I'm not clear with what the second image is trying to communicate, but, yes - as you said, the clockwise movement ends at the "warm" position at about 11 o'clock, and the counterclockwise movement ends at the "cool" position at about 8 o'clock. When I sent the motor out in the "cool" position (8 o'clock/lower position), the installer was able to slip it into place on an lever that was set at the cool position. Thanks for watching!
I think the problem I have is a door inside the vent is loose and cold air will randomly be warm and not so randomly back to cold. I didn't see any of you videos for that?
That might be possible -- I am not sure, because I don't have this vehicle (Tacoma) to have a look, and I don't the internal air paths. Perhaps this might help -- click on the "Diagrams" tab: parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2001_Tacoma/63522910__6723436/HEATING--AIR-CONDITIONING---HEATER-UNIT--BLOWER/674460-8712.html Good luck : )
If I remember correctly, you can see it without removing anything - you have to look under the dash on the passenger side, towards the center. There might be a trim piece to pop out on some models, but there wasn't a trim piece on the '01 Tacoma. I hope that helps - good luck!
Are both 87106-04010 and 87106-04020 compatible with 2003 4Runner? Seems like they should be the same as in a Tacoma. Hearing the clicking from the driver’s side, but dont want to risk replacing one part to find out that the other has also died.
I would call your dealer and verify, but no, according to what is shown on the Toyota parts site, neither of those parts fit the '03 4Runner. Instead, the HVAC motors are shown as part number 87106-35150 for the lower motor (by the blower motor), shown here: parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2003_4Runner/HVAC-Blend-Door-Lower-DAMPER-DAMPERFOR-BLOWER/63395818/8710635150.html And then 87106-35120 as the upper motor, shown here: parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2003_4Runner/HVAC-Air-Inlet-Door-Actuator/63472602/8710635120.html If the motors themselves are the same, you can swap out the arms, as mentioned in the video. I don't have any 4Runner parts too look at, so I don't know if the motors are the same. I hope this helps -- good luck!
Hey I had my ac compressor change (new) less an year .. all sudden notice my ac getting low (cold) but at the same time notice low Wreid sound on when putting the ac on high .. any suggestions. To look at first before I take it to the ac mechanic?
I'm sorry that's happening -- it is possible that if the blend motor motor is going out, and if that's the case, then the motor won't close the door all the way when you want full-blast AC (and the motor does sometimes make a weird noise when it starts failing, but typically its a clicking noise). You can check that our yourself by looking at the motor from the passenger side, as shown in the video: put your setting and full HOT, and look at the position of the white arm. Then change it to full COLD (or better yet, have someone else change it while you're looking at it, or use your cell phone camera), and take note if the arm moves. You might also want to check out this video about the blower motor making sounds and how to fix that (just note in that video, when he says "condenser", he means "evaporator"): th-cam.com/video/uhbsxsZY_5c/w-d-xo.html If you don't see anything wrong with the blend door motor or blower, then I would take it back to the AC mechanic. Good luck!
@@SDsailor7 I am not sure -- I think you would at least need to have the key in the "ON" position. The arm certainly should move when the engine is on and you adjust the temperature.
No, the Tacoma shown at the beginning was in a junkyard, and that is why so many dash parts were missing. You can look under the passenger side dash and see the motor without removing much, perhaps just one panel (maybe not even that). I hope that helps - good luck!
@L35 in Colorado i just recently changes this part out and got my heat back, but now im having issues with my a/c and heat switching on and off on its own? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
I'm sorry that's happening -- if you mean that the air is suddenly blowing, then not blowing, it might be the blower motor: www.tacomaforum.com/threads/2001-taco-air-blower-shuts-off-on.9541/ I had a blower motor issue in another Toyota where a squirrel had hid nuts in the blower motor! It would run, then stop (jammed by the nuts!), then run: in that case, cleaning the blower motor fixed the problem. Here's another youtuber's video on the issues: th-cam.com/video/uhbsxsZY_5c/w-d-xo.html I hope that helps -- good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado thanks for the reply! I meant like il be driving and the a/c will be on and then suddenly it switches to heat on it own, usually i just turn the a/c/heat knob back and forth and then it’ll reset and eventually it’ll do it again.
Oh man, that's too bad -- if you have junkyards in your area, see if there are any '98 to '04 Tacomas. Alternatively, do you think you can glue or epoxy the arm to the shaft?
I gorilla glued it but I didn’t really need to. It was a snug fit on the new actuator. I just replaced the part by following your video and now my truck has heat again! Thank you!
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- no, you don't have to remove the entire dash -- just look under from the passenger footwell area, and you'll see it. You just need a flashlight and small screwdriver. You can see it in this video here: th-cam.com/video/HG5k4zpjuWQ/w-d-xo.html Good luck!
Timestamps and more info:
00:21 Locations of mounting screws (3 larger Phillips, 1 smaller Phillips)
01:14 Disconnect electrical connector
01:27 View of the track
01:50 Start Bench Testing
02:09 *Important*: Difference between similar parts, don't confuse them!
02:44 Factory Service Manual explanation (confusing/conflicting images)
03:57 Test #1: checking arm movement by powering the motor with 12V battery
04:50 Detail of power/ground pins #4 and #5 on motor electrical connector
05:22 Trick for connecting power and ground to the pins
06:08 Resistance safety check over pins #4 and #5 before supplying power
07:12 Supply power to motor on pins #4 and #5 to test arm movement
08:01 Test #2: check resistance over pins #3 and #2 of position sensor
08:45 FSM values for resistance checks over #3 and #2
09:26 Start of motor disassembly to check the internal parts
09:41 How to open the motor case (tamper resistant tabs)
10:21 Inside the motor
10:47 Exploring the arm position sensor potentiometer
14:21 Common internal cause of motor clicking (wormscrew gear failure)
14:56 Snapping the motor case back together
15:33 Moving the arm to the maximum "Warm" or "Cool" position for easier re-install
17:34 Notes for aligning the motor arm to the track during install
18:18 Reinstall instructions
Thanks for watching, and I hope this video was helpful. Please comment with your tips, especially if you know about the arm sensor function, or also if you know any good aftermarket solutions or inter-Toyota swaps.
Good luck with your repair!
Does the motor control the knob with the blue, red and white colors? or does it control the knob with the icons for face and feet air, windshield air, etc? my problem is no outside air coming in, only warm air. I want to be sure i am removing the right part/motor.
Thank you
Is it ok to spray the "needles"/contacts with electrical solvent ie. Deoxit? or should we just leave them alone?
Thank you
When you do the installation of the motor does it matter in what position you install it? or not? Sorry to ask so many questions it might not even be my problem since your description says "AC Noise fix" and "No heat fix" but i like to learn in case this ever happens to me.
My problem like i said before is no outside air ventilation, only getting warm air and when i turn on the AC i do get AC but not enough cooling due to the heating air. I did check the hot water valve that is connected on the back of the fire wall and it is working {it opens and closes}
Thank you
You should be a teacher! great presentation!
@@SDsailor7 This is a good question, and I don't know the answer -- I would first try "reusing" the existing grease, for example moving it back if is has piled up in one area; the reason for that approach is simply because I'm not sure what kind of grease would be appropriate for that connection (the original grease almost looks like some kind of dielectric in consistency). Deoxit would clean it up, but would it lubricate it? I'm not sure, but you can try and then just check resistance in a few combinations from the record to the terminals.
I am a retired engineer turned shadetree mechanic, so I use these types of videos for many projects. KUDOS!!! Your video is excellent!! I appreciate the steady camera, the correct grammar, and the clear explanations along with diagrams. Your production is the standard to which all youtubers should aspire.
Wow, thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching! : )
I completely agree! I have SCOURED TH-cam for a video that could actually help me instead of confusing me and causing me to become dizzy! Yay and double yay! Subscribing now....
Excellent tutorial on diagnosing the Tacoma air-mix servo. I just had heat loss on my 2001 Tacoma & it appears that this servo is the problem... Anyway a DIY repair will save me $$$$ from an expensive auto repair. Thank you for the time to clearly explain - along with great camera work on this repair.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado I just replaced servo today for a cost of $126 - took less than 1/2 hour to put back in.. Tacoma is now ready for winter... A shop would have charged about 3X this amount. Again - outstanding video !!
ABSOLUTELY THE BEST INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO EVER I AM 82.
Thank you, sir!
WOW WOW WOW, what a great video!! Love the all details...best TH-cam fix-it video. I have an '04 Tacoma with a squeaking and/or clicking sound coming from behind the glove box. I tell people it's my pet mouse. Thank you for taking the time to add the extra details and still shots. You ROCK! 👍🏼I agree with one of the comments...your voice is soothing! You've made me confident, as a middle aged woman, that I can do this! Thank you!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
I replaced mine today thanks to your video. The screw in the “front” was the hardest part.
Great job on your DIY! Thanks for watching : )
This is by far the best video on TH-cam about replacing this part. Great information
Thanks, and thank you for watching! : )
somebody give her a thumbs up. This literally saved me tons of time hunting for the servo mix location. Still looks like I have to rip half my panels off my '02 Taco to get to it. Symptoms: Squirrels in ac noise, constant hunting for temp unless I dial it up a notch away from max Cold/Warm, and A/C never gots to max cold. Thanks for supplying part numbers!
Thanks for watching! : )
Such an awesome video, very descriptive and knowledgeable. I have a 2004 Tacoma myself, I love watching how to videos, and yours is by far one of the best I’ve ever seen. Thank you!
This helped me so much! I had that mix motor go out on my 2003 Highlander and I am so very thankful for this video.
Thanks - and thanks for watching! : )
Very informative video. My motor was toast, bought replacement and now I know how to fix my problem thanks to you!
Probably technically the best video I've seen. Very helpful with good quality information. Thanks.
Excellent clear video - really appreciate the addition of still photos with text and arrows
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
For about 2 yrs it sounded like my glovebox was sending Morse code after cold start, this makes sense why. That's a sweet tip when contacts are too close together. Thank you for the informative video.
Bruce Simmons LOl same here
@@ZackZane The cable that connects to blend door was pretty ez to access. I just disconnected and slid it over to about the middle to let sum heat in. Until I can a better price on part. $140 is the best local price I can find for new 1. Even the junkyard wants $55.
Same here I thought maybe just maybe it was a relay in the fuse box...but now after this watchung this awesom video I ordered my motor replacement Part from Rock Auto..I love the morse code description as I was also baffled by that peculiar sound for years. My door got stuck on the heat side all summer in Texas OMG!
@@philclinton9430 I live in Phoenix so I didn't even change it. I found out the cables are very reachable that adjust temp. Just use a pair pliers and you can move them by hand no problem.
@@H8er-Maker I hear you, however I just swapped out the part changing the arm (tense moment) then adjusted the track because the new motor different orientation. Today Hot and Cold at the flip of a Switch. A hearty Thanks goes out to L35 in Colorado...my hero!
One of the best videos I've seen on TH-cam, thoroughly explaining every detail. Amazing work young lady.
Thanks for watching! : )
this part is the culprit (air mix servomotor) to the sounds of mice or squirrels running around in my cab. Amazing video! thank you!
Good luck! : )
I was wondering what this noise was in my Tacoma-Thought it was the new radio I installed-Thanks.
TY for all the great Info. I have a 2001 Toyota sienna. I have this noise you talking about. Yes I got great AC but I get No hot air. It just started making this noise and no heat. I hope and think this may be my problem. This for sure a DIY job. I'm just going to take this part out and just get a new one. Again thank you for the great video and great info. 👍👍
Thanks, and thanks for watching - you can do it! : )
Very intuitive and well explained! I’m now smarter for having watched this video. Thank you
I am troubleshooting a noise coming from under the dash in my son's 2004 Taco. This video is great. Your tutorial/troubleshooting style is refreshing and thorough. Good work. Thanks!
Excellent video!
I have a 2004 xtrcab base Tacoma 2.4l
You can plug the servo wire from the truck into the servo itself and use the truck voltage to manipulate the servo arm. I set the thermostat to the middle of the white sector and moved the door arm that the servo arm inserts into to get the screw holes to align.
The worm gear in the original servo was broken on mine. I bought a cheap servo online and it is working great.
Nice! Thanks for adding your tips, and thanks for watching! : )
Your voice is very soothing. You oughta hear me when I'm workin' on cars.
Haha -- thanks :)
@@L35inColorado Very clear and detailed video. I think this is my problem because i don't get cold air or hot air.
Will this be a dealer item only? Or can i find it at autozone?
So thank you for the video.
@@SDsailor7 There are some aftermarket options available online, which are much less expensive than buying from the dealer. But I don't think you can find this particular part at Autozone -- you'll have better luck online. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Tomorrow i will check to see if the motor arm moves by starting the engine and turning the blend knob and also without turning on the engine.
I will check on line for the motor i sure hope i don't need it and it is something simple.
Thank you again for the great video!!
Very thorough and detailed, I learned a lot from this video. My temp was stuck on cold and a quick forum search said it might be this servomotor and found this video. Mine was not moving at all when switching temperatures but thankfully I was able to 'tap it' like people do with starter motors and it started working again. If it fails again I'll use this video to take it apart and clean the contacts to see if it helps before replacing it, they're not cheap!
Wow, that's great! Thanks for leaving this tip -- you're right, they are not cheap parts, so I hope your trick lasts for a long time! Maybe it till work for others too, which would be great.
Thanks again for sharing : )
This was a wonderful and fully explained video on how the blend door actuator works but a bit of a warning.........that last screw tucked in the back is a BITCH to unscrew!
How do you get to it?
@@KevinKiehmSmall hands or an angled screw driver.
Using this GREAT video I replaced the Actuator - really helpful tutorial. One suggestion is to try lubricating the cable going to the underhood hot water valve, mine was pretty stiff and may have contributed to the Actuator demise. Thanks again
Great - thank you for adding your tip! And thanks for watching : )
If i could i would give you a million thumbs up. But i can only give you one.
Thank you again for your help.
I appreciate the thumbs up! Thanks for watching : )
Wow this is so comprehensive it hurts. Great job!
Thanks for watching! : )
Hi L35,
What a excellent DIY tutorial. One of the best I've seen. Your flow and attention to detail is enviable. I previously repaired mainframes, and you video and style rivaled some of the best instructional videos I've seen to date! Nice job!
Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching! : )
Found your video really I formative and descriptive. Thank you for taking the time to go through and create the video.
Thanks for watching! : )
Very helpful and well made video. Love the pauses and arrows!!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank You L35 in Colorado, this Texas boy is now back to Hot/Cold on demand again. Award winning video! Warm Regards from Texas
Great job fixing it! I'm so glad the video helped, and thank you for your comment! : )
Excellent video, just changed my actuator, easy peasy, no surprises!
Great job in your DIY! Thanks for watching : )
Thank god no cheesy long ass intro video like everybody else does. Thumbs up chickita..
Thank you! And thanks for watching : )
Great video, well put together and detail oriented. Helped me a lot and provided major improvement to my air 🤙🏽
That's great!! Excellent job on your DIY, and thanks for watching! : )
Thanks for the video. Pep Boys couldn't figure out my heater issue but I did and I replaced this part yesterday myself. That is sad.
Great job, I'm so glad the video helped!
I believe the part # in this video may be wrong. There are actually two servomotors on the passenger side. I think part # 87106-04010 connects directly to the blower assembly and is higher up in the dash. The part shown in this video is actually part # 87106-04030, or at least that was my experience after ordering both.
Yes I think the part # mentioned in the video is wrong!
Such a good video! Love the curiosity of how the motor works!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Wow, amazing video! I've been riding around with my temp stuck on freezing. Now I can manually adjust it until I'm done troubleshooting the system. Thank you so much for all the great info! I liked and subscribed. I'm looking forward to learning a lot more from you. Godspeed!
That's great -- well done! Thanks for watching : )
Excellent video with outstanding detail
This was an extremely helpful video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! : )
nice video! I will be taking mine out and testing it today using your electrical TS method. The other end of the cable that leads to the heater core hose, the valve does not actuate when I twist the climate control knob. It blows warm air but not hot like it use to. I will be able to eliminate the bled door actuator because of your video. Thanks a bunch, and God bless!
Thanks, and great troubleshooting -- best of luck to you, and God bless!
Nice video ramdomly came up and happen to need to replace this part so gave it a watch good job. Love how that potentiometer works.
Wow, that's funny! Yes, the design is rather ingenious. Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much, you are very good in your explanation, instructions, and detailed with applications, it is obvious you have a grate deal of education, and experience,
Thanks again,
Mike
Exceptional explanation and demonstration! Thank you!
Hi. Thanks for the video and thorough explanation. I purchased my part and went to uninstall it, but how did you get to the screws toward the driver side? I can get to the screw in the front and the small screw in the back, but the two facing the middle of console are not accessible. I also have some sort of vent positioned right below the part. I am making the repair on my 2001 4Runner.
I'm sorry, I am not familiar with the 4Runner. Perhaps there is some information on the forums?
Puting the old one back is a pain in the a$$!
hey man i like the way u teach, thanks!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
The actuator in mine appears to be hunting back and forth like can't find the right position. I'll take mine apart and check the sensing contacts (needles) before I replace it. Thank Yoiu!
Your video saved me a bunch of time. Thanks 👍
Excellent video. Really good information and detail. Thank you. Been trying to sort out heater issues on my 2005, Really well done and detailed
Thanks for watching -- good luck! : )
Is it necessary to remove the front panel, like you did, to access this servomotor? Thanks!
awesome explication! muchas gracias!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
I've started noticing on my 2004 that recirculate is allowing outside air in. If someone is in front with heavy exhaust or I drive by smoke it all comes into the cab even though the recirculate button is activated and lit. would this unit be the reason why outside air is coming in?
This servo you are showing is for the vent door/ flap control and not for cold & heat mixing i.e. climate control. The servo that controls the cool & hot air mixture is a different unit and for my 2004 Landcruiser Sahara is located behind the the blower & vent door ducting. To get to this particular servo you need to remove the entire dash board & i do mean everything. It is a nightmare of a job. Allocate a day and half but it is the only way to get the climate control to operate properly.
No, this video is for the '01 Tacoma's HVAC system, not the '04 Landcruiser, and the servo shown is the Air Mix servo on the '01 Tacoma. It is a well-known fault on the Tacoma.
Your Landcruiser will have different servos, and servos in different locations because the HVAC system on the Landcruiser is much more complicated than the Tacoma's, and the system has automatic features that the Tacoma doesn't have, which means more motors and more complication.
I haven't done that job on a Landcruiser, but I have done servo jobs Mercedes (MB's have very complicated HVAC systems) and I know what you mean -- MB puts those servos deep inside the dash and you must remove the entire dash to service them. It is a huge pain, like you said. From what you're saying, it sounds like Toyota did the same thing for the Landcruiser, which is really a hassle!
I'm sorry that you're having that problem with your Landcruiser. Those servo's are cheap, either ($$). Good luck with your repair -- I know how you feel : )
Fantastic video!! So clear and throughly awesome!
Hey. I found out that my blend door aculator is out of order/cycle. I searched so much on TH-cam and google. My aculator would think that it is on max cold or hot but be on the wrong direction it is pointing at. When I try to align it to the flips it does not match/fit. Is there any way to reset the aculator. Thank you for you support.
Excellent concise explanation thank you!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Awesome video, very helpful. Anyone have any advice on how to get the actuator control are off of the original actuator? Tried pressing the tab down as described in the video but having no luck. It’s on there solid and I’m worried I’ll be out of luck if I break it
Control arm*
I don't have a motor on hand, but I remember having to press the little white tab that holds the arm keyed to the shaft, and then used a flat pry under the arm to give it a little encouragement to move up. You don't have to remove the arm to open the case and inspect/replace parts inside -- you can leave it in place and just pop open the black tabs on the sides of the case. You do have to be VERY careful, though, for all the parts because as you know they are plastic, and they are also old, so things get brittle. Good luck!
Awesome video, Thanks!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Thanks a lot, great video, love the arrows.
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Excellently documented
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Well done. Keep up the good work and thanks.
legend!
Thanks for watching! : )
Great video. Helped lots. Thanks
Thanks for watching! : )
great vid. thx.lots of good info & easy to follow
Great video. The servo on my 3rd gen 4runner is failing so I just installed a new servo from NAPA. Still having the same issue where the arm gets stuck and will move randomly until I fiddle with the thermostat. Anyone have an idea what to troubleshoot next?
Excellent video and extremely detailed.
Thank you! Good luck : )
Hey, do you know if it's located at the same position in an 05 Seqouia? I used my heater yesterday for the first time since last winter and I can't turn it off anymore. I believe this is my issue.
I do not know -- there might be some discussion in the Comment section, or on the forums. Good luck!
Awesome video! You have helped immensely.
Very informative thanks for the details
Until I'm ready to replace it can I just cut the power to it by disconnecting the electrical line to save my sanity?
Sure, you can do that!
Very interesting. Thank you so much for your efforts.
Thank you! This really helped me out!
I'm so glad to hear that -- thanks for watching! : )
Good expletives thanks
Excellent thanks 🙏🌹🙏
Now the question is how do you hook up the new one? Specially the arm?
My motor is shot. I will need a new one
Would that cause my far passenger vent to blow cold if the other vents on the driver side are blowing heat?
I am having trouble with this. My servo motor when plugged into the wireing harness only turns a little bit when turned to heat then gets stuck and continues to try to move in that direction (motor doesn’t turn off) then when I change to cold it turns about 360 degrees then stops. I took a video and posted on my channel. If you have any ideas as to why this is happening I’d appreciate the help. I don’t want to install it and then damage somthing because the motor won’t stop going
You could tell me a massive asteroid is going to end life on the planet in three hours but with that calming voice of yours I’d be like “ok, I’ll try finish this up before impact!” Just sayin.
Haha! I try to talk calmly because it helps me, too! And, I agree -- I'd want to try to get the job done by the time the asteroid hits, too, just in case it misses! Thanks for your comment : )
Very GOOD video.
You are good .
Thanks for watching! : )
I dont have the anoying clicking noise but when i actuate the know for heat the heater water valve does not stay open so i will have to fix the actuator or buy a new one? And probably they are only a dealer item. Bummer :-(
Hi there! I have a 2005 Toyota rav4, heater doesn't work and i found out that the white arm is stuck in cold mode. I took out the actuator, opened it up and cleaned it. It won't work. I purchased another one, doesn't work again. I don't know how to actually test my actuators because I don't have the equipment shown at the beginning of the video.. i was wondering if the actuator's white arm has to be placed in a certain position before connecting it to the car in order to make it move. I'm a bit desperated, please could you give me some help? I would hugely appreciate it thank you
when I coonect both on them to the car they don't move at all, that concerns me about the integrity of the whole car's electric system
I would like replace it with new one .Please let I know where I can make order ? Thank you. (My car is Toyota 4 runner 2001)
The motor for the 4Runner is different than the Tacoma -- contact your Toyota dealer to see what part number you need for your truck. Good luck!
What do these codes mean B1443 & B1447 for Toyota Land Cruiser Prado
The confusion on the warm/cool is due to the double arrow. they are showing that to go to warm the arrow goes from bottom to top CW, and to switch to cool it will go down CC. understand ??
I'm sorry I missed your comment - I made this video a couple years ago, so I reviewed that part at 03:15 upon seeing your comment: I'm still not clear with why the FSM labeled the second image with the double-ended arrow and used the perforated outline of the arm at the lower/8 o'clock position on that second image. I'm not clear with what the second image is trying to communicate, but, yes - as you said, the clockwise movement ends at the "warm" position at about 11 o'clock, and the counterclockwise movement ends at the "cool" position at about 8 o'clock. When I sent the motor out in the "cool" position (8 o'clock/lower position), the installer was able to slip it into place on an lever that was set at the cool position. Thanks for watching!
Amazing amazing video!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
I think the problem I have is a door inside the vent is loose and cold air will randomly be warm and not so randomly back to cold. I didn't see any of you videos for that?
That might be possible -- I am not sure, because I don't have this vehicle (Tacoma) to have a look, and I don't the internal air paths. Perhaps this might help -- click on the "Diagrams" tab:
parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2001_Tacoma/63522910__6723436/HEATING--AIR-CONDITIONING---HEATER-UNIT--BLOWER/674460-8712.html
Good luck : )
Enjoyed video!
I'm sorry I missed your comment - thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
In the beginning we do do what to get to it?????
If I remember correctly, you can see it without removing anything - you have to look under the dash on the passenger side, towards the center. There might be a trim piece to pop out on some models, but there wasn't a trim piece on the '01 Tacoma. I hope that helps - good luck!
I have a problem with the position control of the air conditioning I move it and it does not change it just blows air at the feet
Awesome video thanks
Are both 87106-04010 and 87106-04020 compatible with 2003 4Runner? Seems like they should be the same as in a Tacoma. Hearing the clicking from the driver’s side, but dont want to risk replacing one part to find out that the other has also died.
I would call your dealer and verify, but no, according to what is shown on the Toyota parts site, neither of those parts fit the '03 4Runner.
Instead, the HVAC motors are shown as part number 87106-35150 for the lower motor (by the blower motor), shown here:
parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2003_4Runner/HVAC-Blend-Door-Lower-DAMPER-DAMPERFOR-BLOWER/63395818/8710635150.html
And then 87106-35120 as the upper motor, shown here:
parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2003_4Runner/HVAC-Air-Inlet-Door-Actuator/63472602/8710635120.html
If the motors themselves are the same, you can swap out the arms, as mentioned in the video. I don't have any 4Runner parts too look at, so I don't know if the motors are the same. I hope this helps -- good luck!
Hey I had my ac compressor change (new) less an year .. all sudden notice my ac getting low (cold) but at the same time notice low Wreid sound on when putting the ac on high .. any suggestions. To look at first before I take it to the ac mechanic?
I'm sorry that's happening -- it is possible that if the blend motor motor is going out, and if that's the case, then the motor won't close the door all the way when you want full-blast AC (and the motor does sometimes make a weird noise when it starts failing, but typically its a clicking noise). You can check that our yourself by looking at the motor from the passenger side, as shown in the video: put your setting and full HOT, and look at the position of the white arm. Then change it to full COLD (or better yet, have someone else change it while you're looking at it, or use your cell phone camera), and take note if the arm moves.
You might also want to check out this video about the blower motor making sounds and how to fix that (just note in that video, when he says "condenser", he means "evaporator"):
th-cam.com/video/uhbsxsZY_5c/w-d-xo.html
If you don't see anything wrong with the blend door motor or blower, then I would take it back to the AC mechanic. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado When you test the blend motor to see if the arm moves does the engine need to be running?
Thank you
@@SDsailor7 I am not sure -- I think you would at least need to have the key in the "ON" position. The arm certainly should move when the engine is on and you adjust the temperature.
Did you really have to remove all those dash components for this? I need to swap mine in my 02 Tacoma
No, the Tacoma shown at the beginning was in a junkyard, and that is why so many dash parts were missing. You can look under the passenger side dash and see the motor without removing much, perhaps just one panel (maybe not even that). I hope that helps - good luck!
@L35 in Colorado i just recently changes this part out and got my heat back, but now im having issues with my a/c and heat switching on and off on its own? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
I'm sorry that's happening -- if you mean that the air is suddenly blowing, then not blowing, it might be the blower motor:
www.tacomaforum.com/threads/2001-taco-air-blower-shuts-off-on.9541/
I had a blower motor issue in another Toyota where a squirrel had hid nuts in the blower motor! It would run, then stop (jammed by the nuts!), then run: in that case, cleaning the blower motor fixed the problem. Here's another youtuber's video on the issues:
th-cam.com/video/uhbsxsZY_5c/w-d-xo.html
I hope that helps -- good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado thanks for the reply! I meant like il be driving and the a/c will be on and then suddenly it switches to heat on it own, usually i just turn the a/c/heat knob back and forth and then it’ll reset and eventually it’ll do it again.
Is the thing that will make clicking noise & not allow heat to blow?
Yes, some people describe a clicking noise when this motor fails. I hope that helps!
Mine sounds like a clicking.
Any idea on where to find a new arm? The clip broke on mine while I was trying to remove it.
Oh man, that's too bad -- if you have junkyards in your area, see if there are any '98 to '04 Tacomas. Alternatively, do you think you can glue or epoxy the arm to the shaft?
I gorilla glued it but I didn’t really need to. It was a snug fit on the new actuator. I just replaced the part by following your video and now my truck has heat again! Thank you!
@@apeterson239 Good job, nice!
Is there a relay or a fuse that controls that actuator motor?
Anyone know? Thank you.
link to buy just the motor?
Did you have to remove the whole dash just to get to this or can you drop the glove box and get to it?
I'm sorry I missed your comment -- no, you don't have to remove the entire dash -- just look under from the passenger footwell area, and you'll see it. You just need a flashlight and small screwdriver. You can see it in this video here:
th-cam.com/video/HG5k4zpjuWQ/w-d-xo.html
Good luck!
My motor is not clicking it is just not doing anything no movement at all. So the water heater valve wont open.