Toyota Highlander Climate Control Heater A/C Repair DIY Fix 2001-2007
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2016
- Toyota Highlander climate control heater A/C repair. No heat. How to fix the climate control problem on a Toyota Highlander. This is a very common problem issue on the 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, and 2007 year Highlanders. If your heater or A/C isn't working on your Toyota Highlander this is probably the reason why. It's a pretty easy fix if you are even a little bit handy.
amzn.to/2dUZGAc here you can get a soldering gun.
amzn.to/2dHGHHy here is the paste flux.
amzn.to/2ekCKbL here is the electrical solder.
Other optional tools.
amzn.to/2dZVLpq here is the bit set I used on my drill.
amzn.to/2efB8oH here are socket sets if you need one.
amzn.to/2emkks6 here you can find Milwaukee drills like I used.
I hope this video helps you successfully fix your Toyota Highlander climate control heater A/C problem issue like it did mine. Let me know in the comments how it went. Thanks for watching. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Great video - I have 03 Highlander and was plagued with the same problem and fixed it. Shops or dealers will literally try and sell you a $1,000 plus new central console unit (as you can clearly see- it's ALL one big ole integrated unit which is a bit weak on the design side - but the Highlander is a spectacular good SUV and my 03 is still running fantastic in 2022 with only 120K or so miles on it). That said - a few "tips" from a 30 plus yr electrical engineer (and "expert" class HAM radio license holder, etc) who did a LOT of circuit board level design and troubleshooting work back in the day ! 1) I'd strongly suggest staying away from a soldering "gun" for anything like board level work - the chance to burn a trace and amount of heat is just too much. Buy a pencil iron - no big deal that it's "always on" - the fine tip and lower heat will make magnitudes cleaner solder joints on that PCB board w/o risking burning it up. Always keep the tip clean via rubbing it while hot on a damp sponge and if needed, even use a little steel wool or sandpaper if anything gets stuck to it like wire jacket plastic etc 2) No need for flux for board level work. Just use "rosin core solder" from any electronic store or Amazon or similar. The "fine grade" solder you used - I believe it's likely already rosin core as an example, and "Fine" is exactly what you want for this level work. 3) To remove the solder - you can just buy a cheap roll of "solder wick" which looks sort of like a flat braided copper material. Solder "suckers" are for lab level pro work - most home shops won't have them. But "wick" is extremely easy to use for cleaning solder out of PCB holes and off the pads - you just press the wick over the spot and apply your soldering iron and as the wick heats it "sucks up" all the solder aka "wick" is the name. 4) Lastly - on how to solder properly. ALWAYS touch the tip of the iron first to the wire and pad interface to be soldered and get it hot - THEN reach in with the solder and lightly dab it and it should flow and be drawn into the hole and onto the pre-heated wire. That is how you know you got a good clean solder joint. It should be shiny and no blob as you sort of ended up with at the end and then had to clean due to possibly shorting to the adjacent pads. A "good" soldier joint (not a "cold" joint) will be shiny and bright - no dulling, and have just enough solder for a tight interface w/o any blob etc. That's about it - you did REAL good for a first timer with a big ole gun doing intricate board level work basically :) Just a few tips to make it that much better - even practice on the bench with some scrap wire and "tin the wire" via pre-heating as I described to get a feel for how long to apply heat first and then how light a touch it takes to "dab" the solder on and watch it flow beautifully and get that "draw in" effect. Great work though - you saved a LOT of folks some serious bucks on a inherent and well known HIghlander minor design flaw and weakness on a otherwise VERY good "keeper" vehicle.
Wow thank you for the great tips and explanation!! Very well explained. I’ll pin your comment so others see it. Thanks
@@SmartEasyDIYer You're very welcome. As stated - you did a great video and fix on a topic that has cost a lot of folks a lot of money for a relatively very simple issue. My father was an electrical engineer also - so I learned to solder properly at a very young age. Also, I was working "in high tech" as an intern before even graduating with my EE degree and we were doing very complex circuit board work and I got to watch a lot of "old timer" techs at the soldering benches who did our board work for us. Thee #1 single most common "soldering mistake" is thinking of it sort of like glue or using a hot glue gun. So most folks tend to stick the solder into the wire and pad area first, THEN want to sort of "melt it into place" to make the connection. Solder as I described, behaves the exact opposite. The proper technique is to heat the wire and pad first, THEN insert the solder and just use dabs of solder while checking as it "flows into the wire and joint". IF one is not seeing a "draw in" or "flow" - then one knows their heat is too low, or they have a dirty solder pen tip, etc. It makes for "cold" and weak solder joints if "flow and draw in" do not occur. It's the single #1 problem seen in solder joint failures. This particular Highlander design flaw - it's really due to the poor choice of a very, very fine gauge wire being applied to a larger pad, at a connection point that gets a lot of use. They could have easily chosen a larger and more robust wire size. Moreover, as many folks know and describe - the potentiometer nut is notorious for coming loose. Thus, the entire potentiometer dial comes loose and thus sort of "tears loose" those micro fine wire gauge connections as it wiggles around and moves. That's the crux of what caused the issue - it should have been fixed with a recall probably - but since it's not engine or drive train etc, I'd bet Toyota figured just let it be and people would live with it and not complain much until frozen in the winter or burning hot in the summer when the heat flips on "by it self" when it's supposed to be A/C - which was my case. Most learned to "wiggle jiggle fix it" via moving the dial around exactly as you described - and that method worked for most of us for a few years, but the problem eventually becomes chronic and "hard fails" as the wire finally breaks completely. Thanks again - good video on a great fix to a very good vehicle that some people would even sell/scrap for an issue such as this, as the repair they get quoted is so expensive. The most "green" and "economically wise" thing a person can do IMO - is buy a high, high quality vehicle like a Highlander and then keep it and drive it for as long as possible via doing just basic repairs and routine things like faithfully changing the oil etc. On these modern engines and vehicles - it's now routine to easily get 200K to 300K miles out of them with little to no major issues or repairs needed. Every time a mechanic or "smog check" guy sees our Highlander, they offer to buy it cash, on the spot LOL !! We even get notes left on the window at Walmart or whatever, offering to buy it for cash, etc. I keep it waxed and pay a guy about $100 bucks once a yr to wax and clay bar detail it - so it looks very clean, and the engine of course is immaculate and oil changed faithfully, etc.
Yes good information. Some plastic parts may break due to fatigue such as the clips that hold the switch in. I may end up gluing that one edge in. Play Mike be a good idea to extend the band that goes to the switch with another band and solder it together
OMG thank you soooo much. I’m a 69 yr old woman too cheap to have someone fix my car. Through you tube I have put a new bumper on, changed my head lamps out, put new hydro lifts on the hatch, replaced my shattered sunroof glass and now…..thanks to you fixed my heater problem. Thank you!!!!
Wow that is an amazing list of accomplishments on keeping your car going!! Great job!!
You did all of those ?
I wish I was your friend. Oh, not to take advantage of you but you could show me.
@CL-mp4vn that is an amazing list!
Superb audio/visuals. Clear voice and slow enough instructions to follow. Thanks very much.
Thank you for letting me know!
Can't thank you enough! Quoted $1000 from our mechanic... but it cost me $30 for a sodering gun and soder! My dad helped me and was able to get it done in about 2 hours. Hardest part was getting the wires through the holes - that took the longest. But the AC works great now! I am soo happy and it was a relatively easy project to work on with my dad.
2001 Highlander
Awesome thanks for letting me know!! Sounds like you and your dad had some quality time together. 😊
Gentlemen, please help.
Can you please tell me before you fixed the ac what was its problem ? Is it not working at all or it's weak, not cold enough ?
My 2004 highlander ac is not cold at noontime, but it gets cooler at night when the temperatures is down.
I can't find a good mechanic in my area to give me exact diagnosis.
The 1st guy told me to buy 2 can of 134. After he couldn't do it, he said ac has leaking.
The 2nd guy said it was just freon, adding freon, still not cold, then he said because motor on driver side didn't work. After he fixed it, still not cold and he didn't know what happened anymore.
The other mechanic said the expansion valve have to be replaced and it's located inside the wall, they have to take the whole dashboard out. It's would cost $1000, then say giving me discount at $700 for the work.
I would let them fix if they diagnosed it right. But after all that, I don't know what the real problem.
When I turned the ac on, the compressor seems as it's working, but weak. It could be the compressor.
I'm so confused.
Thanks
You just saved me $200 and gave me a sense of pride for being able to fix this problem myself. Thank you for sharing!!
Awesome great job I’m so glad! Thanks for the comment.
Thank
You can get it done for like $75 now on eBay if you want to go without your heat control for a month maybe it’s sooner not near the holidays in a pandemic
Single mama of 3 kids. Worked for my 05. Stripped a screw so had a hiccup getting it out and the wires are a pain to get back through the holes. Had to set it down and walk away and come back with a fresh mind lol. Finally got them all through though! AC blows cold again just in time for 100 degree june. THANK YOU DUDE
Wow I’m proud of you for pushing through and fixing it yourself! Sometimes you need to take a break and come back with a fresh perspective. Enjoy that cold a/c!
People like you on the youtube contribute more to the society than any politicians promising BS. My 75 years old neighbor has 2006 highlander had exact same issue you described on this video. And I followed your step exactly and fixed the issue for her. She was so happy. I even got a motherly kiss lol. So what you done here heroic for some people who lives on social security. Thank you Sir! a Salute to you.
That’s so cool you got to help her out! Great job, Love it. Thank you!
Thank you for putting this video together. Our 2005 Hylander had the exact same issue and your video was what I followed to the T to fix our heater issue. Now to get the A/C fixed. Thanks again.
You’re welcome! I’m glad it worked!!
Thank you Smart Easy DIY and CM! I fixed the heater adjusting knob on my beloved 2007 Highlander hybrid yesterday after intermittent loss of heat for some time. The video is super clear and CM's additional advice worked like a charm. The main thing I had trouble with was removing the old solder. I bought some "wick" as advised by CM, but that was not too successful at removing the old solder. I just kept heating the old solder until I could push a needle through and work it around to enlarge the hole.
I can add one tip of my own. It was hard to get the three newly stripped wires back into the three tiny holes in the small circuit board. I ended up using a forceps to grab a wire and push it through the hole without too much trouble. Then I bent the protruding wire over on the other side to keep it from coming back out while I soldered it.
Also, I lost one of the six 10mm side bracket bolts when re-installing the repaired unit into my dash. It fell to an irretrievable location, so I just left it short the one bolt. I got out my magnetic sockets after that and didn't lose any more bolts. Turns out my 13/32" SAE magnetic nut driver fit the 10mm bolts just fine.
I am very happy to have saved a ton of money thanks to Smart Easy DIY and TH-cam - thanks!
Thanks so much for sharing your experience and tips you learned along the way! Nice job! Thanks to cm as well. I’m glad it worked for you. 👍👊
I just followed your video and did the repair this morning. It saved me the $300 that the dealer wanted. Thanks and keep making great videos!!!
Awesome great job glad to hear it! 👍👊
Thank you so much for this video!! I was having the same problem on my 2001 Highlander, and was able to fix it in just a few hours. I am not even a little bit experienced with electrical work on cars, and the last time I soldered anything was about 10 years ago. Because of this awesome tutorial, I was able to completely fix the problem. Glad to have heat again! Cheers!
Awesome great job!! It sure is nice to have the heat working this time of year. We just sold our Highlander to get a sequoia but the heat still worked just fine. 😊
Thank you so much for your help. I did follow your lead and fixed the problem. All 3 wires were disconnected. I'm a happy camper now, with 107°F in the desert. You're the best!
Wow that’s hot!! I’m glad this helped you figure out the issue ok. A/C is much needed in temps like that! Great job fixing it!!
Thank you for this video!! After watching your video we were pretty sure this was the issue with my AC/heater. Your step by step and clear instructions made this a fun father/daughter project. Problem fixed!
Wow that’s awesome!!! I’m glad you had fun and fixed it too! 😁
Thank you so much for this video. I had no idea what was going on with my AC/heater and I thought I was going to have to pay a lot to have someone fix it, until I found this video. You made it super simple and straightforward. I followed exactly what you said to do and now it’s JUST LIKE NEW! This was my first soldering project and it went beautifully. Again, thanks for the video!
Wow that’s great I’m glad this fixed it! Must be a very common issue with these years. Good job!
Excellent video! Thank you for making this DIY fix a possibility for a dummy like me. Saved $600 and learned a new skill. Note: My Highlander is a a Limited and has the automatic climate control system (two knobs instead of 3), but the problem and fix were basically the same.
Thank you so much and great job! Also, thanks for sharing the info for others to know.
Spent most of my time and patience trying to thread the wires back into the knob connector. With great persistence I got it all back together. And now I have heat for the north east winter thanks to you fine sir!
Wow, that’s so exciting. I’m glad you got it!! Cheers to having heat. Winter is upon us.
This is probably the most detailed, best described and well shot video I've seen on auto repair. Great job. I'll be doing this this weekend. As background, we've been having this same issue on our 2004 Highlander and just got an $1100 estimate from the Toyota dealer. They don't do soldering. They replace parts. The disconnected wires make perfect sense for the way our heater and AC unit are behaving.
+Jeff Carlson Wow thank you I appreciate that. I'm glad you found it helpful. Yeah this seems to be a very common problem so hopefully you can fix it for little bit of nothing compared to what they told you. Best of luck!
Smart Easy DIY you are #1.
Thank you very much for posting this video. I followed your instructions and was able to fix the problem just as you did. Please keep up the great work and posting your videos to help others.
Wow thank you so much I appreciate that very much!! thank you for the encouragement. I’m glad it was helpful and that it fixed your problem as well! Great job!! 👍👊
It was the nut! I live in South Dakota and you may have literally saved my life I was freezing for 3 days thank you thank you thank you thank you happiest new subscriber ever!
Wow crazy I’m glad it was that simple! Good for you!! I know what it’s like to need heat. It’s even more so where you are! Thanks for the support! 👍👊
This worked perfect on my ‘05 Highlander, thanks for the clear and easy to follow video!
Awesome great job!! I’m glad it helped.
Great video.
Once I got the wire back into the holes, patience with a good soldering iron and accessories made it go pretty easy.
Cleaning out the holes of the old solder was accomplished with my 50 year old set of xacto micro drill bits. Waited a long time, but I found a use for them!
Thanks!
Awesome nice job! Thanks for sharing your experience with others.
Just did this fix to my '04 Highlander..thanks for the instructions. Great Video.
+Cory Schultz Awesome good for you great job!!
Duuuude! I having been literally punching my controls for the past month to get it to blow the temp I want until it stopped working all together. I finally gave your directions a try and it worked. You are the man!!
That’s awesome. I’m glad it worked! I know the feeling lol
Firestone auto told me I needed a new climate control unit to the tune of $1000. You just saved me a grand, thank you!
+Brett Darrow Wow awesome I'm glad!!
Thanks for the great instructions and great visuals. I easily removed my console but did not do the additional steps for soldering the loose wires. I'm not skilled in that regard and do not have the necessary soldering tools. Instead I went with a repair company called UpFix out of Georgia and paid $119 for the wiring repair. They claim they also check other potentially loose wires. The company does all kinds of small appliance repairs. I was kept informed of the process via text for every stage of the repair process - receipt of item, repair and shipping back to me. I haven't yet installed the console and tried it out but I'm not expecting any problems. I'll let you know if the company has let me down. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
You’re welcome! I’m glad you got it sorted out ok. Yes let us know how your experience goes that could be a good option for others that don’t like soldering etc thanks.
@@SmartEasyDIYer everything in working order on the reinstalled console of my 2006 Highlander. I’ve got 167k miles on it and need to have it working order for the foreseeable future. Great to have heat again!
@kevinoconnor2387 awesome!! That’s exciting when the heat works.
Amazing! Mine was a bit different but the fix was the same. Worked perfectly! I can't believe you did it with that solder iron! I could barely do it with the fine point temperature controlled. Thanks so much for posting!
You’re welcome. I’m glad if it helped.
Thanks, i just fixed my family 2005 highlander AC for this summer. It was exactly the same issue. I glad i had found your video . Thanks again!!!
That’s awesome I’m glad you figured it out! Great job!!
Your video was awsome and easy to follow. Thank you for helping me get my heater and ac working like they are supposed to.
Awesome I’m glad you got it! 👍👊
Thank you so much for this excellent video. Thankfully I have a friend who is an electrical engineer that did the soldering for me and I just popped it back in and we’re at 75° again considering there’s gonna be 12 to 17 inches of snow tomorrow night I’m very happy.
You’re welcome I’m glad it fixed your problem! So nice to have a friend like that. 😁👍
Thanks John .Followed your instructions and repair was a complete success.Thanks Stan
+Tricia Riley Awesome good for you great job!
Thanks for your clear instructions. Excellent. Just wanted to add a few of my own tips (from doing this twice before, based on another video). First time i did it, I just re-soldered the flat cable with the 3 leads back. Surprise surprise, it broke again after awhile. 2nd time I did it, I replaced the flat cable with 3 stiff wires, and then I (foolishly) used hot glue to try to hold the joints in place. Turns out, one of my solder joints was bad. When I put it all back together, it would fail and the A/C would stay "hot" (even in summer -- bad). 3rd time (today!) I used a desoldering mesh tape and a desoldering (solder-sucker) to clean out the 2 sets of 3 holes/pads on the circuit boards (after painstakingly removing the hot-glue/mess with needle-nose pliers and an exacto knife). With the holes clean, I used 3 very flexible and thin wires from an electronics bread-boarding kit and re-soldered. The stiff ends of the wires are like plugs and I am confident will not move, and the flexy wire will "give" if there is any torque that is not stopped by the plastic holder that the small circuit with the temperature knob plugs into. Hope that makes sense :) Also, before snapping back together I used a multimeter to verify (checked ohms) that there was continuity between the leads on the two boards (what I didn't do last time, doh!) One last thing: for future reference: I am pretty sure that knob is just a variable resistor (I measured about 200K ohms from the two extreme leads.) So if this breaks again, I am just going to hang a 200K ohm variable resistor out the front panel and not worry about "going in" one more time! :) Thanks again for your great camera work and explanations.
Wow , thank you for your sharing your experiences that could really help someone! I’m glad you got it all figured out. 😁👍
Amazing video. Did this over my lunch hour. probably saved me $1000s! Thank you so much!
Thank you!! I’m glad you got it done. 👍
Thank you so much! Fixed my friend's vehicle with your help.
Awesome great job!! I’m glad that fixed it. 👊
Really good detailed video.
One of the best I have seen!
+Jim Edwards Thanks I appreciate that I'm glad it was helpful!!
Just fixed and reinstalled on our ‘07 Highlander, took about 2 hours with some difficulty getting the stripped-back wires in the holes. Thanks for the video!
You’re welcome. I’m glad you fixed it great job!!
great video! I'm going to have to do this eventually...I'm disappointed I didn't know this trick when I replaced my standard 05 highlander radio, cd, cassette with a nice touch screen display radio. Another video said just to ensure the nut behind the heat and cool knob is tight...easy but it didn't fully fix this issue. I noticed the heat and cool changes when i gently wiggle that center knob...i know my issue is the one you just repaired. Outstanding video! Thanks for taking the time to create this gem! Cheers!
+coldbeerlover Thanks I appreciate that. Yes same here, I was able to fix mine by just tightening the nut on the temp knob but that only lasted 6 months maybe... so I knew there was a deeper issue. It's a very common problem seems like in these years.
After having book marked this video a couple of years ago, the jiggling the handle stopped working so I tried this. All three wires were broken off, follow directions and AC is now working great...in Texas! Thanks!!!
Wow that’s great! I’m glad it worked for you. 👍👊
Oh my GOD!! That worked perfectly! Thank you so much for such a clear and quality fix and vid. I think it's clear from the comments that we really appreciate you. Keep it up our dear friend:)
Thank you I’m glad it helped! Thanks for letting me know I appreciate all the comments. 👍
I wanted to say thank you very much for this video, I had an idea this was the issue but you confirmed it. The hardest part was cleaning out the holes with a pin and it not getting stuck. anyway the job is done and yes like others have commented you saved me and many others well over $1,000 in parts and labor. So thanks again and great video by the way!
Hey thanks for the feedback and sharing how you made out. That way others can get a good idea what to expect too. I really appreciate the feedback. And great job by the way!! I’m glad it helped.
Just did this fix on my 2006. Thanks for the clear instructions. Hardest part was getting the dang wires back through the holes. First test was positive, I just hope my soldering holds.
Awesome good for you! Mines going strong still no issues.
You did a great job on this video one of the best I’ve seen for a DYI thank you for taking the time to post
You’re welcome. I’m glad if it’s helpful!
Thank you sir!!!! My ac temp dial had this same problem. One broken wire- would only go up, not down. No bueno in texas heat! Fixed it right up!!!!
Good for you I’m glad you discovered the problem. yeah you definitely need a/c in Texas! Nicely done
Great instruction and excellent production of the video. Thank you.
+Kevin Gunning Awesome thanks! 👍👊
I attempted to solder for the first time while trying to fix this part. I almost compromised the part which would have been expensive. Anyone out there who’s unsure of doing this themselves, I suggest you take this piece out of the dash and take it to a car stereo place who will solder it for you. Some place helped me out for $50 and got me back on the road. Either that or educate yourself about soldering before you screw something up like I almost did. Otherwise very informative video, thanks.
Yeah, that can be tricky. You have to decide which part you can do yourself. I’m glad you found someone to help you with it. Thanks
GREAT VID, thanks so much!! i have a 2006 and no heat. First tried just tightening the potentiometer nut, but when that didn't fix it, i followed your very clear instructions and found the EXACT SAME ISSUE, severed wires. I agree with the protips in the comment you pinned, but in a jam or the safely pin trick can work (i happened to be away from my personal electronics tool kit). Again, this was a very helpful and clear demonstration of a straight forward fix to a seemingly common issue. Be well.
Thank you for letting me know i’m glad if it was helpful!
Awesome video, despite the challenging angle. Thanks so much!
Thank you!
just fixed it myself, only the center wire was still attached, can't wait to go for a drive tomorrow many many thanks !
Awesome I’m glad you got it! Best of luck!
Keep Teaching. You do an excellent job. Thanks
Thanks I appreciate the comment!
This saved me a lot of money. Thank you.
Awesome
Great instructions. It worked. My garage wanted to charge me $900 to fix the problem…w/o describing well what needed to be done. They stronhly recommended that i sell the car because it’s old…but my 2002 has only 120k miles!! Thank you very much.
Wow that’s a lot to fix it! Yeah it’s just getting broke in with that many miles! I’m glad it fixed it!!
Excellent video. Very helpful.
Thank you!
My AC works! Thanks so much, took me a while since it was my first time soldering but I got it to work!
Awesome I’m glad to hear! Nice job.
Hi thanks for your guidance. Fixed it as instructed and it worked. Only thing I couldn't do is the soldering. So I google electronic repair shops. Had to pay 40.00 to have them fix it.......again thanks and as easy as you showed. Took them just a few minutes to repair.
+Mike Mejia Awesome thanks for the feedback! I'm glad it worked for you!! Mine has been working great ever since I fixed it! Yeah even though you had someone else do the soldering you still saved a lot over having to have a shop fix it or to buy a whole new circuit board assembly. 😃
I really enjoyed watching your video. You are very detailed and informative. What you demonstrated is quite a bit, but I believe I can do fix this myself. I would have to buy a few tools that you used. Thanks for sharing this and this would save me a lot of money.
Thank you I appreciate the feedback. You might need to get a few things but I believe you can do it too. 👍
thank you so much for this video, was not sure where to go with this issue. it is a common issue i have seen. i didnt want to go to a shop. was about to change out fuses, looking at replacing the thermostat who knows where i could have ended up. but i think this will do the trick, at least im gonna go with it and see where it leads me. again very informative and great video.
+Kyle Boyer thanks I'm glad it helped you. Yes it's a very common problem with these years. I would guess it's a good place
To start with yours too. Good luck!
Thank you very much for posting this. Very good explanation. Saved me a bunch of money. Thank you thank you thank you!
Awesome I’m glad to hear it!! 👍👊
Excellent video... I was able to watch, then do the complete repair without needing to refer back the video. Up to last week, I've always been able to get away with just tightening the nut, but this time it didn't work. I added some hot glue to the cable where it meets the edge of the board and put a dab of blue locktite on the retaining bolt, so this time I don't expect the problem to return for the rest of the vehicle's life.
Thank you so much I’m glad you got yours working! Yes it seems like sometimes if they’re not very far gone you can get away with just tightening the nut. Great job!
Great video. We took it apart and repaired it in less than an hour. Thanks
Awesome great job!!
Great video with great tips! Still think this might be a little much for me to do, but I might try anyway lol
Thank you. I hope it goes well! The one comment below said you could use ethernet cable wire which might be more flexible. 🤷🏻♂️
Excellent video. Fixed my daughters car yesterday, all 3 wires were broken. The hard part was threading the braded wires through the switch. If I did it again I would thread solid wires through the small holes and solder those to the existing ribbon.
Awesome great job! I’m glad it fixed it for you!
That's what I did because i could not get that ribbon through. The only problem is i used a torch to strip the ribbon wire which made the wires move around in the ribbon. So I'm not sure how long it will last before those wires possibly touch. If i do it again i will remove the ribbon altogether and use regular wire or a new piece of ribbon. My desolder syringe is just a push button with no iron on it. That was pretty useless. I just heated up the holes and blew through the other side. Didnt get them cleaned out enough to get that ribbon through it. I was kind of in a hurry though. If I had more time I'm sure I could of got it.
It's kind of crazy that those wires brake at all. I mean if that nut is tight that switch shouldn't move much if at all.
Yeah it shouldn’t. It seems to be a common problem after years of bumping down the road etc. so hopefully they changed it after this generation.
Thank you so much! Such clear instructions. Really appreciate it!
You’re welcome!
Great video! Helped me find my problem which was the nut that sit behind the adjuster for temp was loose. Tightened it up and ac works great. Also I noticed that the wires he fixes can be seen when removing the temp knob. Wires are small and kinda hard to see but I used my phone to verify all three were connected. Please try tightening the nut first then look and see if the wires are still connected before taking your dash apart
Thanks. I’m glad that’s all yours needed.
Okay I'm in the middle of this project so I'll give you everyone some tips. All the small Phillips must come out. I had one that was stripped through the cardboard part of the circuit board. I had to put a wide flat head screwdriver behind the screw point and push on it to get the screw out. In the process it broke a tiny bit of the plastic cover off.
Then the next thing that happened was the clip that holds the switch in broke off due to being weakened from many years.
Well I have to make sure I keep that nut very tight in the front so the assembly doesn't wobble.
Man I took a razor knife and cut between the three wires and I have not stripped them yet so I'm either going to try to reinsert those or have to solder on extensions. I bought a solder extractor so I can open up the holes for the new wires to go through. I also bent the cable up that goes to the switch to give me a little more room but it's extremely tight.
I would recommend having a stationary magnifying glass setup with locking medical type clamps.
I also needed a large hemostat type clamp to get the large electrical connectors off of the pins.
Thanks for sharing
great job! Mine worked on either AC or heat, but can't adjust temperature. When I removed the control, voila, the same exact failure: middle wire ok, but the 2 wires on both sides were short. I followed your instruction and fixed, and it now works as it supposed to. thanks much!
Awesome I’m so glad it helped!! Great job fixing it. 👊
Thank you so much for your informative step-by-step instructional video. I was going to repair mine myself by soldering the contacts as my dealer wanted $1000 to replace it with an $800 aftermarket control. I found one for $200 from a guy on eBay who just wants the core back presumably to repair and sell to someone else which is fine. I installed it with your video guide and I have heat! Thanks!
Awesome good for you! I’m glad you got it working and that it went well. Having heat is awesome this time of year. In the north anyways. Lol.
@@SmartEasyDIYer Yes, the funny thing is, the blower blew heat all summer long so I ignored it figuring I'd have heat in the winter. Wrong. As soon as it started getting colder it would only blow cold air!! So I bit the bullet and found one at a decent price and since I was not taking it completely apart to solder, basically swapping out the front panel control for another it was pretty simple. From all the You Tube videos about how to repair/replace it and the number of controls out there for sale, clearly this is a common issue for the Highlander. Oh well, it's fixed and I'm happy. Thanks again!
Yeah it definitely seems to be a common issue. Something that doesn’t show up till the vehicle is older it seems. Well I’m glad you got it fixed! Enjoy having heat.
Hey thanks man. Totally nailed it and saved $1k at least.
Awesome so glad to hear! Nice job.
Thanks for the video, this is exactly what was wrong in my 05. I recommend using a fine point soldering iron, soldering guns are big and get too hot, this can cause damage when used by an inexperienced person. The solder you use should be a rosin core for electronics with no need for flux. Mine had a coating over the solder joints that had to be scrapped off before soldering.
Awesome i’m glad you fixed your problem. Thanks for the tips
Great video! Solved my problem. Thanks.
Awesome I’m so glad! Thanks
Fantastic video! Thank you!
You’re welcome! Thanks for letting me know.
Thanks for the great video. If we were to take the ribbon out all together, what gauge wire should we use?
Awesome video worked for me!!
Ok great!
Great instructional video! May I suggest using a small drill bit to drill out the old solder instead of using a Bobby pin & solder gun. I tried the video was on the 1st one. Almost jacked it up. Then used a drill bit on my 2nd one. Just food for thought. Thanks again for the awesome video.
+Chris Koch Hey thanks for the good tips. That’s a good idea. Thanks for sharing with us.
thanks for the info! i just got one on the shop with the same issue, was able to fix it with your help in no time!!
Awesome I’m glad!! Great job! Thanks.
Do you work on cars a lot?
@@SmartEasyDIYer i do smog check and repair in L.A. also electrical troubleshoot
Nice! 👍
Alfonso Caballero do you still do it? I’m not mechanically inclined and would like to pay someone to fix this issue on my 2005 HL Limited...
Thank you so much for the instruction sir. My dad’s has exact the same problem.
You’re welcome good luck with it!
Success! It was the same ribbon cable for my '01 Highlander. Thank you for your helpful and detailed video.
People like you help normal people save money and keep items being useful!
Tip: Follow the Tips on the pinned (Top posted comment) of this video.
Also, you can just pop the plastic window to undo the connection @ 4:50. Glue back when complete.
Another possible Tip: You can solder the original ribbon connector back to its original place. Just make sure you can expose some of the end wire. Only 3 solder needed, less complicated and time consuming. If this does not work you can use the method described in the video.
Thanks. And for sharing your experience.
Really well done! Ty!
Thank you!
It worked. It was strange to see my identical dashboard colors. A few tips: It is not necessary to unbolt so much of the unit. 4 Philips screws on the sides of the black plastic unit. Observe the plastic pegs on the sides. Use a small screwdriver to spread the metal plates and the front control unit snaps out. If worried about screws going down the tubes then by all means stuff the vents with a rag. Us a magnet to collect screws. Additionally I would not use a big Weller soldering gun as pictured. You want the small Weller that you hold like a pen.
I waited too long to do this. By now the partial connections had sparked enough that tips of the wires had been vaporized. I had 2 wires who's tips had vaporized. This is delicate work so make certain you cover the basics of good soldering with a clean sharp tip and tiny gauge rosin core solder.
If this kind of work is new to you and you are afraid of not getting it back together correctly remember that stuff like this is designed for zero mistakes from the people who assemble it; and to be assembled as quickly as possible. So there are hints everywhere on reassembly.
If you want to just replace the whole thing order Sumitomo Electric 84010-48180. BTW the date on the back is in reverse order. Japanese.
+M zungu Interesting. Yes I would recommend a smaller soldering gun than what I had too, but I made do with what I had.
thank you so much!! you saved me a lot of money
Awesom I’m glad! 👍👊
I just fixed my car heat system thank you very much for this video
+Ismael Oraha Awesome good job!
Thanks I hope this works on my 2003 Highlander. Mine is stuck on 25Celcius (Canada), 77F. Good job!
Good luck I hope it works for you too!
Awesome! Very detailed thank you!
Thanks for letting me know!
This worked! Thanks Bud!
Awesome I’m glad it worked!! 👊
Wow You are a treasure -- THANKS!
Thank you!
I got a quote of $400 for someone to do this to mine (not replacement only fix). Thank you for saving me $400!!!!
Wow that’s a lot! I’m glad you were able to fix it yourself! Awesome 👍👊
11:11 TIP: Be extremely gentle putting back screws in top corners - the plastic there may become brittle over time (esp. in southern regions) and cracks easily. It so, use an instant glue to fix that, and skip the screw.
👍👍
Thanks for the Video, This was my exact problem and now I dont have to freeze in the Minnesota winter
Wow glad to hear it! Thanks
Vert detailed instruction and spot on video work
+Casey Planert Thank you I appreciate that. Glad it was helpful.
You save me money! I was able to fix mine. Wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be. My highlander is a limited edition, but the temp and fan knobs have the same three wire connection.
OK awesome good to know! I’m glad it was helpful. I wasn’t sure how the limited compared.
Great video did fix it straight up cheers
Awesome! Great job!
Perfect how to video 👍
Thank you Mitch!
Thank you man! It helped!!!
Awesome!! 👍👊
Excellent video. Thank you. I lost the nut that goes over the washer behind the temperature dial. Anyone know where I can get a replacement nut?
+Joyce Decisive Thanks. I would take it in to a local hardware store like ace and they should be able to match it up just fine.
To keep this problem from happening again, I recommend using the cables from one of those extra CAT5 network cables. The wires are much more flexible so it work break again, hopefully. I did just that when the original wire ribbons broke again.
Thanks for sharing
Thank you for the excellent video. The reason this wire broke was a lack of a lock washer under the nut behind the knob. Be sure to add one or it will fail again.
Good tip
Great video. I just opened mine up and found the dealer must have tried to fix it when they changed the radio. They hacked it by adding 3 wires to the backside of where each wire is soldered. Not a great solder job but lasted 14 years. I'm going to resolder theirs. It's easy to get to cause it's right on top.
Awesome I hope it goes well!
Yes it worked out great! I put some glue on the switch clips to keep it from shifting back and forth too. Thanks for your video.@@SmartEasyDIYer
Awesome great job!! I’m glad it worked out
got my ac back! thank you. shops told me needed new climate control module for 1200. ha
Wow awesome what a savings doing it yourself!! 👍👊
Thanks, all I had to do was tighten the nut by hand and now it's working again.
Awesome yes, sometimes that does it!
omg thanks for making this video im having the same w my highlander.
You’re welcome I’m glad it it was helpful!! This is a common problem it seems like with these years. Good luck with your repair!
Thanks for the video! I tried repairing this on my highlander, but when I removed the ribbon cord that goes into the black connector (4:41-5:11) the whole black connector came off of the circuit board 😞 and ideas of how I can repair this piece? Can I solder the black connector back onto the circuit board? Thanks for your help!
+hansoulofull sorry that stinks. I think you should be able to solder that connector back onto the circuitboard very carefully.
Great job
Thank you!
Does radio shack actually have that same kind of 3 wire ribbon wire? I just extended the leads from the ribbon with regular wire. Working for now but idk how long it will last. I'd like to get some of that ribbon or just eliminate the ribbon altogether and use regular wire from board to board.
I actually don’t have a RadioShack close so I don’t know but maybe you could find it online somewhere.