This video helped a lot. The pivot head is mandatory. I used a breaker bar with a 12-point socket and didn't have to use a screwdriver. My belt was split and after I took it out, I found a tiny pebble wedged into a groove in one of the pulleys at the location of the split. One way to help visualize how the belt goes back on: The grooved pulleys should touch the grooved side of the belt, and the smooth pulleys should touch the smooth side of the belt.
If you're having trouble reaching to put the belt back on. Go under the car. You will find a small plastic plate with two 10mm bolts covering access to all the pulleys. This made it way easier.
This took me about 30 minutes, as a first timer. Saved me a bunch of money. Takes a little bit of patience and the very helpful hint to warm up the replacement belt in the sun (I put it in a bag with a little bit of water and exposed it to the sun for a couple days) to make it much more pliable. To be doubly sure it was on the grooves correctly, I took of the front passenger wheel to ensure it was on correctly. Thanks so much for posting this. There are so many others posting the same end result by spending more time by unbolting a lot of unnecessary things. Just have a little patience and a long rod took care of this one.
Jim's instruction gave me the confidence to try this myself. I used a regular 3/8" drive ratchet and socket, with a cheater bar slipped over the handle. As Jim indicates, a flex-head ratchet would be ideal, but mine is a 1/2" drive and my metric sockets are 3/8" drive. I soaked my new Gates belt in 303 Aerospace for about 20 minutes yesterday. The old belt is 19 years old with 51K on it and has a lot of little cracks. With the tensioner sprung, the old belt slipped off in seconds. Its length matched the new belt very well, so I started the install. Tried Jim's method with the power steering pulley first, but no luck. I found that starting at the A/C, it was possible to line up the crankshaft easily by aiming the belt from below the AC with my left hand. Up past the water pump next, and now both ends of the belt are vertical in front of the tensioner. I pulled a loop back toward the power steering with my left hand while holding the other side with my right. So, now all I had was the alternator. I just could not get enough slack with my ratchet/cheater and tried a number of things to no avail. The cheater bar was just too long and I had no more travel, even when pushing the A/C line to the left. Quite frustrating, as I just needed a smidge more slack. After a few choice words, I pushed the cheater down as hard as I could, and she slipped on. Only problem was my socket was stuck on the hex boss. My ratchet must have slipped off a bit, and the socket dug in like a tick. Finally got it off and saw a few little metal shavings dropping onto my new belt. Brushed them all off and everything looks good now. Runs nicely. I pity the poor SOB who has to do this job on my car next, though. Probably me. Anyway, I didn't get under the car or remove any parts. I believe the key to this job is getting a flex-head like Jim says, because you can start pulling the tensioner with your ratchet almost vertical. This way, you get maximum compression of the tensioner and thus, maximum slack with the new belt. Thanks for Jim's original post and all the comments over the years- hope I have added something that can help someone like ya'll helped me.
Nice job Jim,no music, prepare for the video not trying to hold the light and tools at the same time, speaks clearly, that’s how to do it,you got another subscriber!
I see that Jim, correctly, used a 6-point socket. I used a 12-point Craftsman socket and the soft hex head of the tensioner stripped. Fortunately, the 6-point socket saved the day. Point 2: When putting on the new belt, route the it over the alternator first and then slide it over the water pump pulley. This saves a lot of strain trying to put the new (tighter) belt over the alternator lip. Point 3: I used a breaker bar instead of a swivel-head socket and since the tensioner's rebound with the new belt was less, the hex head was about an inch lower. I had to loosen the front & right-side engine mounts and jack-up the engine about an inch to get the socket/bar out. This was much easier than taking the belt off again, getting a new wrench, risking further stripping the hex head (which means replacing the entire tensioner - NOT!), and going through the pains of putting the belt back on.
I also watched video below were they replaced the tensioner. My 2005 camry with 140 k miles and several belt changes, I had to replace the tensioner because it mushed out on the 19 mm aluminum tab for the wrench. It was about due for a new tensioner any way. One important note I will add is to heat up the tensioner carefully with a torch and also put your belt in the oven at low heat. After all said and done I still had a hell of a time to get belt on as it was very tight.
I did this job today following all the steps on this video , i did not removed the wheel ... To remove the old one was pretty fast just like Jim did , to put the new one in it was a b#tch , the new one was much stiffer and apparently my tensioner dont give much slack .. BTW thank you very much for the precious information
You do not need to jack up car, nor remove wheel, just turn it all the way to the right. then remove the two screws that hold on the plastic side cover and rotate it down to expose the lower pulley makes the job a lot easer in fitting the belt.
Thanks very much! The longer wrench with the pivot head would have been very helpful for us but we did manage. Note that one applies the 19mm socket to the hex boss near the tensioner wheel, not the weird nut on the wheel itself. A fair amount of steady force is required.
Quick tip; just did the belt and the only way I could get it on was to make the A/C pulley the last one. I got it partially on and then used a ratchet on the starter pulley to turn the belt fully onto the pulley. Mt pivoting ratchet was not allowing enough room to slide onto the water pump.
I have had to replace the surpentine belt on two vehicles I owned, and it was an easy job, but with the newer vehicles you don't have much room in the engine compartment, and changing them can be a difficult job. The one job I will hate is replacing the spark plugs on my 2004 Ford F-150 pickup truck. That is a tricky job due to the way the plugs are designed, and built.
My 2006 Scion tc has a very tight space which scares the hell out of me. Maybe I can't get the new belt on. 163,000 miles and the old original belt doesn't have any cracks in the belt. This video is the best I've seen so far for my Scion so wish me luck. I need to do this sometime soon.
Three years after my first comment when I was thinking of replacing the belt and now I actually did 11/2022. I started by holding a loop in the loose belt and placed it over the power steering pulley. Then, while keeping the belt pulled tight over the PS pulley, I routed it with fingers over the tensioner and then the crank pulley. Then I just worked my way forward over the AC pulley, the water pump pulley, and finally the alternator pulley. It literally only took a few minutes. However, before trying to put it on in the way I just described, it was freaking ridiculous and I failed over and over for about an hour.
I've been fighting an '04 for three hours. This is the toughest one I've ever attempted. One more attempt in the morning, the old belt is going back on. Unbelievable. -verified belt length by VIN EDIT: Thanks for the vid! 2nd Edit: Pulled passenger wheel and access panel. Removed bottom alternator bolt, loosened top one. Routed belt with second set of hands. Placed belt on crank pulley last.
He passed forwarded the most important part, what sequence to put the belt into the pulleys. Which point do you need to use the tensioner? Every time I try to relieve attention, parts of the belt loosen up around the other pulleys so I have to stop putting them back on and then go back to the tension and it just keeps repeating that and I can't keep the belt on. So I don't know which pulley should be the last one you put the belt around when it's the tightest.. I've been at this for about 6 hours.
I recccomend doing the bottom and ones first from in the wheel well, then get everything else and do the water pump last, because the water pump doesn't have ridges like the alternator, so its easier to slide the belt on a smooth surface. have someone else hold the tensioner while you slide the belt on the water pump last, thats what I did when I kept failing to get it on the alternator.
Beware. Moving the belt tensioner will NOT be as easy as it just looked. In reality the belt tensioner is much much much harder to move, as you will see in multiple other videos for Toyotas. Have the force with you 👍
@@victoriagirdler4795Yeap it's very tight, you can barely fit both hands between the 6 pulleys. You should always start at the bottom when you install the new drive belt.
130k miles? I came to check it out because mine has 300k and still running like new but today I changed the alternator and realized the belt is getting worn out. thanks for the video
You need that extra long screw driver to reinstall the belt. You use the long screwdriver to nudge the belt on the pulleys. The belt will insist on falling off the pulleys. When they remake Stephen King's , Christine, Jim needs to be in that movie. Jim is the only mechanic Christine likes... she kills every other rough mechanic. Love this channel.
What was the belt size or PK number? Been fighting with a 2004 Camry for about a week now. Napa says its 7PK1935, put on new tensioner old one's hex was broke off so I cut the old belt off it needed to replaced anyway. Ready to throw a match on this car, can't get the belt on.
If you or someone else put on a new tensioner not made by Toyota, it's possible (likely or mandatory?) you will need a different belt. Check out rockauto for this car/engine and compare the belt vs. "solution kit" which is a belt and tensioner. The Gates belt in the kit is different from the belt alone. Once you deviate from OEM, you may need to stay there.
Why would the video speed up at the putting it on part. It broke and took itself off. I dont need to see that part. I need to see the part ya sped up 🤦🏿♂️
Thanks. I was just wondering if there were any tricks to the belt replacement on the Camry. Glad I watched. I like the Gatorback belts. They don’t squeal.
My 2006 doesn't have a socket head, but rather takes a torx bit and there isnt enough clearance to even get a torx bit on the tensioner, so I'm not sure what to do. I'm guessing you have either an american or a canadian spec camry, but ours is imported from Japan!
@@kjenkins2005 The pulley on the alternator works best since it’s accessible for you to work with, also be careful with the “bolt” on the tensioner pulley I used the wrong socket and ended up stripping it. The correct socket is a 19mm on a Camry 2005. One last thing since I stripped it, I called a mechanic friend to help out and that man didn’t even release the tension at all he just used a screwdriver to barley force the belt into the alternator’s pulley and then when it was almost in there he used a socket wrench to “roll over” the belt into the alternator’s pulley. That worked like a charm. Hope this helps! :)
Hi Jim. Great video as usual and boy was it fun meeting you and hanging out. I hope to stop by your house soon because I didn't get enough time with you.
Hi , is there a shorter alternative belt for this 2azfe engine , like my ac compressor not working , can I place a shorter drive belt to drive the car without ac
Hi Jim, liked your video, but unfortunately I could not see the tension release bolt from your camera angle. So could not do the belt change myself. I ended up taking it to a mechanic who knew less, He used a long screw driver to try and release the tension, while swearing away and having no success. Eventually he started listening to what I told him about Jim's video and found the tension release bolt and then it was all to easy. Just a thought for next time, if you have the camera at better angle, it would been more helpfull. Thanks.
I would like to wash the entire engine with a pressure washer , what parts should be covered I see only the alternator so far , and disconect the battery , any other suggestion?
Wow 130k miles and now change the belt ! My Nissan Titan with 70k miles I and on the 2 one ! My next car will be camry for sure ... lot of issue with my titan
This generation Toyota engine, 2AZ-FE, 2.4 liter, is the one with stripped head bolt problem at the 100K mile mark, similar to Cadillac's infamous NorthStar engines. Avoid this engine ! I believe after 2007, the 2AZ-FE was redesigned to fix the problem.
@@ferndog1461 only 2002 and 2003 Toyota Camry's have reports of stripped head bolts, but it only randomly affects some Camry's and then there are other 2002 Camry's with over 500k, but the best Camry's seem to be 2001 and older and 2004-2006.
Hello Jim, I'm hoping you know about all the pulleys?? I have a 2002 camry Le and had to have the harmonic balancer replaced. plus the top motor torque mount also. Well after the New harmonic balancer was put on at a shop, about 1 month later it FELL OFF COMPLETELY.... thank God it happened in a parking lot!! but what would of caused this??? lot's of my friends told me,, they didn't do something right as in maybe tighting the bolt or not torqued enough???? could this cause problems in the future on the motor?? and should ALL the pulleys be in line with all the others??? it looks like the harmonic pulley is kinda crooked sitting at a slight angle! had a new belt put on also. ever since we had the work done recently, it smells like the car is trying to run hot but only by smell. gauge reads normal and no leaks or steam??? if you have the answers please let me know. Thanks. bout ready to take him to court!!!
so would you say first change at 290 k is too soon? or do they last longer? I mean I only got 233k out of the first set of brake pads factory installed. I'd like to be a smartass for a second and point out Its not a fan belt, the Fan is ran off the battery when the motor is running and sometimes after it shuts off. Fan belts won't do that, and that kind of motor needs the extra cooling after its shut down. However historically speaking its sometimes called a fan belt, but that's not its function anymore its a drive belt for your AC compressor, power steering and alternator without it your can will drive funny the ac won't work and your battery will go dead leaving you broken down on the side of the Hwy, always replace them if they show signs of wear or cracks in the V ribs, this is very easy to see when the car is on a lift. That's when It was pointed out to me mine was really way past overdue for a new belt, as 80% of it has cracks, I forgot this and drove the car over 240 miles one day a month ago on a long trip. it did not break down on me. I got very lucky, don't risk it. Worse is I did not have the tools with me to fix it on the road if I had to and this was way away from any major city. This should be on your inspection list before going out of town. Oil tires and belts. Spark plugs if its been a long time.
Lol, our 2012 camry has 145k miles on it and we haven't replaced serpentine/drive belt yet. It's overdue but it seems in good condition still and doesn't make any squealing noise or anything.
No way it’s this easy I been a mechanic for past 7 years never had a belt give me do much trouble I’m stuck order 3 different belt none fit Help plz help me plz 😂
bleh that's one job that looks worth the $100 to pay a mechanic to do I can't even see far enough in the engine to draw out a "schematic", plus the belt already snapped anyways
@@jimthecarguy no problem. Great news! It was actually the ac pulley now I'm out over a grand! And the other car broke down right after the first covid stimulus, isn't that great!!!!
This video helped a lot. The pivot head is mandatory. I used a breaker bar with a 12-point socket and didn't have to use a screwdriver. My belt was split and after I took it out, I found a tiny pebble wedged into a groove in one of the pulleys at the location of the split.
One way to help visualize how the belt goes back on: The grooved pulleys should touch the grooved side of the belt, and the smooth pulleys should touch the smooth side of the belt.
If you're having trouble reaching to put the belt back on. Go under the car. You will find a small plastic plate with two 10mm bolts covering access to all the pulleys. This made it way easier.
Will that involve removing the tire?
@@dancrumbo5922 yes. Passenger side tire.
What plastic plate r u talking about?
@@carlosdennis6814 this was two years ago but I think you take the passenger tire off and you'll see the plastic plate behind it
@@vincentvalentine9417 my plastic cover is already off thanks anyway
This took me about 30 minutes, as a first timer. Saved me a bunch of money. Takes a little bit of patience and the very helpful hint to warm up the replacement belt in the sun (I put it in a bag with a little bit of water and exposed it to the sun for a couple days) to make it much more pliable. To be doubly sure it was on the grooves correctly, I took of the front passenger wheel to ensure it was on correctly. Thanks so much for posting this. There are so many others posting the same end result by spending more time by unbolting a lot of unnecessary things. Just have a little patience and a long rod took care of this one.
Thanks for watching.
Jim's instruction gave me the confidence to try this myself. I used a regular 3/8" drive ratchet and socket, with a cheater bar slipped over the handle. As Jim indicates, a flex-head ratchet would be ideal, but mine is a 1/2" drive and my metric sockets are 3/8" drive. I soaked my new Gates belt in 303 Aerospace for about 20 minutes yesterday. The old belt is 19 years old with 51K on it and has a lot of little cracks. With the tensioner sprung, the old belt slipped off in seconds. Its length matched the new belt very well, so I started the install. Tried Jim's method with the power steering pulley first, but no luck. I found that starting at the A/C, it was possible to line up the crankshaft easily by aiming the belt from below the AC with my left hand. Up past the water pump next, and now both ends of the belt are vertical in front of the tensioner. I pulled a loop back toward the power steering with my left hand while holding the other side with my right. So, now all I had was the alternator. I just could not get enough slack with my ratchet/cheater and tried a number of things to no avail. The cheater bar was just too long and I had no more travel, even when pushing the A/C line to the left. Quite frustrating, as I just needed a smidge more slack. After a few choice words, I pushed the cheater down as hard as I could, and she slipped on. Only problem was my socket was stuck on the hex boss. My ratchet must have slipped off a bit, and the socket dug in like a tick. Finally got it off and saw a few little metal shavings dropping onto my new belt. Brushed them all off and everything looks good now. Runs nicely. I pity the poor SOB who has to do this job on my car next, though. Probably me. Anyway, I didn't get under the car or remove any parts. I believe the key to this job is getting a flex-head like Jim says, because you can start pulling the tensioner with your ratchet almost vertical. This way, you get maximum compression of the tensioner and thus, maximum slack with the new belt. Thanks for Jim's original post and all the comments over the years- hope I have added something that can help someone like ya'll helped me.
Jim, thank you for this video. It really help me with my 03 Camry. I must say I think this was the toughest one I've ever done.
Nice work with the video Jim. I need a vid on how to replace the belt around my waistline that keeps growing! haha Take care
Hahaha that was very good.It was great to meet everyone in person.Take care
Do you mean the belt keeps shrinking?
serpentine belt 04 mecury sable or Taurus
What a dad joke
Nice job Jim,no music, prepare for the video not trying to hold the light and tools at the same time, speaks clearly, that’s how to do it,you got another subscriber!
I see that Jim, correctly, used a 6-point socket. I used a 12-point Craftsman socket and the soft hex head of the tensioner stripped. Fortunately, the 6-point socket saved the day. Point 2: When putting on the new belt, route the it over the alternator first and then slide it over the water pump pulley. This saves a lot of strain trying to put the new (tighter) belt over the alternator lip. Point 3: I used a breaker bar instead of a swivel-head socket and since the tensioner's rebound with the new belt was less, the hex head was about an inch lower. I had to loosen the front & right-side engine mounts and jack-up the engine about an inch to get the socket/bar out. This was much easier than taking the belt off again, getting a new wrench, risking further stripping the hex head (which means replacing the entire tensioner - NOT!), and going through the pains of putting the belt back on.
almost a heart attack at 5:21
RedPilled damn you were right 😂
I also watched video below were they replaced the tensioner. My 2005 camry with 140 k miles and several belt changes, I had to replace the tensioner because it mushed out on the 19 mm aluminum tab for the wrench. It was about due for a new tensioner any way. One important note I will add is to heat up the tensioner carefully with a torch and also put your belt in the oven at low heat. After all said and done I still had a hell of a time to get belt on as it was very tight.
Greetings from Ireland Jim and thanks for posting this. Apart from a little “knuckle rash” I had no problem following your video and doing the job.
Glad it helped
I did this job today following all the steps on this video , i did not removed the wheel ... To remove the old one was pretty fast just like Jim did , to put the new one in it was a b#tch , the new one was much stiffer and apparently my tensioner dont give much slack .. BTW thank you very much for the precious information
Thank you for not tearing the front end apart to do this.
You do not need to jack up car, nor remove wheel, just turn it all the way to the right. then remove the two screws that hold on the plastic side cover and rotate it down to expose the lower pulley makes the job a lot easer in fitting the belt.
P
Thank you Sir this video saved me time and money for my 03 Camry
Keep making videos it is very good information
Glad it helped
Thanks very much! The longer wrench with the pivot head would have been very helpful for us but we did manage. Note that one applies the 19mm socket to the hex boss near the tensioner wheel, not the weird nut on the wheel itself. A fair amount of steady force is required.
Great tip!
Quick tip; just did the belt and the only way I could get it on was to make the A/C pulley the last one. I got it partially on and then used a ratchet on the starter pulley to turn the belt fully onto the pulley. Mt pivoting ratchet was not allowing enough room to slide onto the water pump.
Glad 03 camry’s are timing chain. Serpentine belt are easy to replace. I got 05 Camry same procedure 🙂Thanks for the video Mr Jim👋🙂
I have had to replace the surpentine belt on two vehicles I owned, and it was an easy job, but with the newer vehicles you don't have much room in the engine compartment, and changing them can be a difficult job. The one job I will hate is replacing the spark plugs on my 2004 Ford F-150 pickup truck. That is a tricky job due to the way the plugs are designed, and built.
My 2006 Scion tc has a very tight space which scares the hell out of me. Maybe I can't get the new belt on. 163,000 miles and the old original belt doesn't have any cracks in the belt. This video is the best I've seen so far for my Scion so wish me luck. I need to do this sometime soon.
Three years after my first comment when I was thinking of replacing the belt and now I actually did 11/2022. I started by holding a loop in the loose belt and placed it over the power steering pulley. Then, while keeping the belt pulled tight over the PS pulley, I routed it with fingers over the tensioner and then the crank pulley. Then I just worked my way forward over the AC pulley, the water pump pulley, and finally the alternator pulley. It literally only took a few minutes. However, before trying to put it on in the way I just described, it was freaking ridiculous and I failed over and over for about an hour.
Excellent sir! The part about the tensioner --where and how was vital. Thank you.
I've been fighting an '04 for three hours. This is the toughest one I've ever attempted. One more attempt in the morning, the old belt is going back on. Unbelievable.
-verified belt length by VIN
EDIT: Thanks for the vid!
2nd Edit:
Pulled passenger wheel and access panel. Removed bottom alternator bolt, loosened top one. Routed belt with second set of hands. Placed belt on crank pulley last.
Toyota wants to charge me $350 bucks...to replace this belt...I don't think so LMFAO..great video 👍
😳🤬thank you for the reminder…I am grateful for a husband and sons willing and able to work on our vehicles!
Write "$350" or "350 bucks". Putting the dollar sign and writing bucks is redundant
He passed forwarded the most important part, what sequence to put the belt into the pulleys. Which point do you need to use the tensioner? Every time I try to relieve attention, parts of the belt loosen up around the other pulleys so I have to stop putting them back on and then go back to the tension and it just keeps repeating that and I can't keep the belt on. So I don't know which pulley should be the last one you put the belt around when it's the tightest.. I've been at this for about 6 hours.
I recccomend doing the bottom and ones first from in the wheel well, then get everything else and do the water pump last, because the water pump doesn't have ridges like the alternator, so its easier to slide the belt on a smooth surface. have someone else hold the tensioner while you slide the belt on the water pump last, thats what I did when I kept failing to get it on the alternator.
@@Wes_5kyph1 Exactly my experience as well.
Beware. Moving the belt tensioner will NOT be as easy as it just looked. In reality the belt tensioner is much much much harder to move, as you will see in multiple other videos for Toyotas. Have the force with you 👍
If you have the right tools it ain't hard. What's hard is the space we have to work with in these generation camry on the belt side!
@@victoriagirdler4795Yeap it's very tight, you can barely fit both hands between the 6 pulleys. You should always start at the bottom when you install the new drive belt.
Just went out to get a flex head ratchet will try method of putting belt over the alternator already wish me luck
Thanks had this job today not to shabby
130k miles? I came to check it out because mine has 300k and still running like new but today I changed the alternator and realized the belt is getting worn out. thanks for the video
I'm happy to help. Thank you for watching
300k wow. Yeah my wifes belt looks really good at 200k no cracks at all....these belts really seem to last these days.
@Frank. T Your right I did notice deeper grooves...replaced belt today was pretty easy job
Dear Jim could you say whether it’s better to replace the whole belt tensioner assembly or just replace the pulley on the tensioner unit
Gracias thank you for the video helps me a lot.
You need that extra long screw driver to reinstall the belt. You use the long screwdriver to nudge the belt on the pulleys. The belt will insist on falling off the pulleys.
When they remake Stephen King's , Christine, Jim needs to be in that movie. Jim is the only mechanic Christine likes... she kills every other rough mechanic. Love this channel.
What was the belt size or PK number? Been fighting with a 2004 Camry for about a week now. Napa says its 7PK1935, put on new tensioner old one's hex was broke off so I cut the old belt off it needed to replaced anyway. Ready to throw a match on this car, can't get the belt on.
If you or someone else put on a new tensioner not made by Toyota, it's possible (likely or mandatory?) you will need a different belt. Check out rockauto for this car/engine and compare the belt vs. "solution kit" which is a belt and tensioner. The Gates belt in the kit is different from the belt alone. Once you deviate from OEM, you may need to stay there.
You are a God sent
Why would the video speed up at the putting it on part. It broke and took itself off. I dont need to see that part. I need to see the part ya sped up 🤦🏿♂️
Thinking the same thing. That’s what I wanted to see. Lol
I had my music up on blast and when the song came on it scared the shit out of me 🤣
When installing a Tensioner. do u need to bleed it ?
No just bolt it on.
Thanks. I was just wondering if there were any tricks to the belt replacement on the Camry. Glad I watched. I like the Gatorback belts. They don’t squeal.
Actually this on is very easy. Thanks for watching
What tools do I need?
My 2006 doesn't have a socket head, but rather takes a torx bit and there isnt enough clearance to even get a torx bit on the tensioner, so I'm not sure what to do. I'm guessing you have either an american or a canadian spec camry, but ours is imported from Japan!
Jim, Thanks for this video. What is the specification of the belt? My belt is all worn out and I can't see the numbers.
You just saved me $150
Thanks for the visit
What pulley should I put the belt last ? I've been trying to put it on the crank shaft and is been so difficult should I try the alternator last ?
Did you figure it out? I'm about to do my 05 Camry.
@@kjenkins2005 The pulley on the alternator works best since it’s accessible for you to work with, also be careful with the “bolt” on the tensioner pulley I used the wrong socket and ended up stripping it. The correct socket is a 19mm on a Camry 2005. One last thing since I stripped it, I called a mechanic friend to help out and that man didn’t even release the tension at all he just used a screwdriver to barley force the belt into the alternator’s pulley and then when it was almost in there he used a socket wrench to “roll over” the belt into the alternator’s pulley. That worked like a charm. Hope this helps! :)
@@peterrivera4710 Thanks for the help. I'm going to do it this weekend.
Are you from Massachusetts?
Hi Jim. Great video as usual and boy was it fun meeting you and hanging out. I hope to stop by your house soon because I didn't get enough time with you.
Hi , is there a shorter alternative belt for this 2azfe engine , like my ac compressor not working , can I place a shorter drive belt to drive the car without ac
Nice video... 👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Jim, liked your video, but unfortunately I could not see the tension release bolt from your camera angle. So could not do the belt change myself. I ended up taking it to a mechanic who knew less, He used a long screw driver to try and release the tension, while swearing away and having no success. Eventually he started listening to what I told him about Jim's video and found the tension release bolt and then it was all to easy. Just a thought for next time, if you have the camera at better angle, it would been more helpfull. Thanks.
Do you happen to know what the belt below that belt is called and how to replace that?
so helpful.......thank you
I would like to wash the entire engine with a pressure washer , what parts should be covered I see only the alternator so far , and disconect the battery , any other suggestion?
Jim do u have the part # for the belt u used
Could I use a universal joint socket (have) instead of a swivel head socket wrench (don’t have)?
Sure whatever works for you.Thanks for watching.
Thanks! That’s my next project! Haha! Liked and subscribed!
My 2010 camry has two belts, one small and one big. How to go about it
Is it the same procedure replacing 2016 toyota camry se drive belt? thanks!
Wow 130k miles and now change the belt ! My Nissan Titan with 70k miles I and on the 2 one ! My next car will be camry for sure ... lot of issue with my titan
This line of camrys ended in 2007 if I'm not mistaken, not 2009.
2007-2009 might still have the same engine though.
This generation Toyota engine, 2AZ-FE, 2.4 liter, is the one with stripped head bolt problem at the 100K mile mark, similar to Cadillac's infamous NorthStar engines. Avoid this engine ! I believe after 2007, the 2AZ-FE was redesigned to fix the problem.
@@ferndog1461 only 2002 and 2003 Toyota Camry's have reports of stripped head bolts, but it only randomly affects some Camry's and then there are other 2002 Camry's with over 500k, but the best Camry's seem to be 2001 and older and 2004-2006.
@@ferndog1461 2007-2009 have a ton of reports of excessive oil consumption and a few 2012 and newer Camrys have reports of transmission problems.
@@koreymayo8884 My 2007 has the oil consumption problem, big time. Only 110K miles, so I want to keep driving it, but you really have to add oil.
I kept struggling to put the new belt on
Just slap the belt on the pulley last not the alternator
Hello Jim, I'm hoping you know about all the pulleys?? I have a 2002 camry Le and had to have the harmonic balancer replaced. plus the top motor torque mount also. Well after the New harmonic balancer was put on at a shop, about 1 month later it FELL OFF COMPLETELY.... thank God it happened in a parking lot!! but what would of caused this??? lot's of my friends told me,, they didn't do something right as in maybe tighting the bolt or not torqued enough???? could this cause problems in the future on the motor?? and should ALL the pulleys be in line with all the others??? it looks like the harmonic pulley is kinda crooked sitting at a slight angle! had a new belt put on also. ever since we had the work done recently, it smells like the car is trying to run hot but only by smell. gauge reads normal and no leaks or steam??? if you have the answers please let me know. Thanks. bout ready to take him to court!!!
Scott Buford I'm no mechanic but just completed this job on 2001 ipsum thanks for the video
Thanks, Jim.
What size of socket you are using, that will help....
19
@@rabudman I am about to change the belt on my 05 toyota Camry...thanks for the info.
Six sided socket? 19 mm, right?? Need to check if i have a 6 sided
Yes 6 sided
Thank you for your video.
shinyshiny9 Appreciate your comment.
I see when you installed the belt on the ac and water pump last everyone else goes to the starter last
Thank you!
You bet!
The Camry 2011 engine 2AR-FE does it come with one drive belt or sett of 2 pec and what size
Thanks for watching
I have a 2003. Trd camry se 2.5 ltrs.
My toyota sienna 06 refuse 2 start after changing d crank sarft..though it spark & d nozzle sprayed
Thanks for watching.
I wouldn’t be able to put this back by myself. It took two strong men and a lot of cursing words to put it back. Hell it was difficult.
It’s not going down at all
Not even ganna take my gloves off ...savage
Hi Jim. I was wondering if you are aware of the procedure for changing the serpentine belt on 2010 Audi Q5? Thank you. Richard
First you drive it to Germany.
Thanks Jim,,,,,My next task!!!
Thank you for watching
Cant see where the tensioner is
Very good instruction. Thank you!
Thank you for watching and your feedback. Live stream Sunday at 7:00 PM on jimthecarguy
Thanks very helpful tool size listed and all going to do mine today!!!!!!!
This was very helpful thank you very much!
so would you say first change at 290 k is too soon? or do they last longer? I mean I only got 233k out of the first set of brake pads factory installed.
I'd like to be a smartass for a second and point out Its not a fan belt, the Fan is ran off the battery when the motor is running and sometimes after it shuts off. Fan belts won't do that, and that kind of motor needs the extra cooling after its shut down.
However historically speaking its sometimes called a fan belt, but that's not its function anymore its a drive belt for your AC compressor, power steering and alternator without it your can will drive funny the ac won't work and your battery will go dead leaving you broken down on the side of the Hwy, always replace them if they show signs of wear or cracks in the V ribs, this is very easy to see when the car is on a lift. That's when It was pointed out to me mine was really way past overdue for a new belt, as 80% of it has cracks, I forgot this and drove the car over 240 miles one day a month ago on a long trip. it did not break down on me.
I got very lucky, don't risk it. Worse is I did not have the tools with me to fix it on the road if I had to and this was way away from any major city.
This should be on your inspection list before going out of town. Oil tires and belts.
Spark plugs if its been a long time.
this guy needs to go to school.
I just replaced my belt first time with 482k miles. it looked fine.
It is no where near as easy as you made it look in this video
Would have been better not to fast forward through the most important part.
Ya skip over the part where you put the belt over the alternator pulley?! After all that talk about the screwdriver? Sheesh!
Your welcome!
Nice video, but fan belt ? Lol.
Lol, our 2012 camry has 145k miles on it and we haven't replaced serpentine/drive belt yet. It's overdue but it seems in good condition still and doesn't make any squealing noise or anything.
No way it’s this easy I been a mechanic for past 7 years never had a belt give me do much trouble I’m stuck order 3 different belt none fit Help plz help me plz 😂
12 minutes first timer 99 Camry
You speeded up the video so no help if we cant see mine is loose after taking off the belt
Wow
You did the hardest part too fast!
bleh that's one job that looks worth the $100 to pay a mechanic to do I can't even see far enough in the engine to draw out a "schematic", plus the belt already snapped anyways
Thanks for watching.
@@jimthecarguy no problem. Great news! It was actually the ac pulley now I'm out over a grand! And the other car broke down right after the first covid stimulus, isn't that great!!!!
How helpful was the fast forwarding with no verbal instruction 🤣🤣💀💀 terrible
Thank you so much for this video..