Is your compound hiding or removing oxidation in your boat's gelcoat? This detailer said:
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2024
- Car products are for cars, boat products are for boats.
All compounds leave something behind, even water-based ones. If you don't clean the surface, you're being lied to. People might say, "just use a finishing compound afterwards" you can sure but how would you know what it looked like even then by cleaning it. Using a compound that finishes to a point where you can tell what's going on and see clarity, you have a better chance of getting a better result and might not even need a second compounding product.
I have many more (300+)videos; before and after boat detailing videos including boat waxing, boat buffing...
Have a question? Comments section will be replied to.
Anyone can hit a rock with a hammer; getting the rock to look like something that belongs in museums and books... Takes a love of hitting rocks with a purpose and not just the right tools/products.
🔆🔆Want to help me make some changes @ 3M? Think about giving them a call and tell them to look at my videos. Give them a piece of your mind. Help me light a fire under their butts.
Phone: 1-866-279-1235 (general marine)
Phone: 1-877-666-2277 (waxes and compounding stuff) 🔆🔆
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP. Make sure you get all the oxidation out of the gelcoat, get a great finish, clean and strip the surface and then apply Fire Glaze.
www.restructuremarine.com/fir...
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
There's a "marine" version but it has the same main ingredient as Fire Glaze, just a different lubricant/carrier solution made to be environment friendly. I find it dries rather fast and as I'm in a hot climate, I use Fire Glaze instead of Restructure Marine Polish. I like their Mirasol spray for all the interior furnishings as well.
For a demo on how I apply this stuff:
• Boat wax, kind of. Fir...
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
If you are a fan of what I do, I don't take money from manufacturing companies or product suppliers.
www.paypal.me/DDLee
Thanks for your time and support.
Lee - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![How To Fix Boat Gelcoat Spider Cracks, Hairline Cracks, and Crazing [MATERIALS LIST👇] | BoatUS](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i2w85yvrbHk/mqdefault.jpg)
Good video. Detailed eye caught a lot of things that would need to be fixed for “perfection” some water spots on the rear part.
Thanks! 👍
Lee, I can't thank you enough for all your videos and advice! I bought a 1995 Key West 1500 Sportsman, and I'm pretty sure it was so cheap simply based on the way it looked. I watched lots of your videos, asked some questions, and decided to take the plunge. Being my first (and only) boat to polish, I bought a $40 Harbor Freight buffer. I sprung for and upgrade hook and loop pad and I know from my experience to spend money on the better wool and foam pads. I couldn't find 3M locally (until after, lol) but a detailing shop in town had Ardex Marine 1000 in gallons. I can't tell you how good the boat looks, it's a mirror shine. Now, I will tell you that I spent many years building and finishing custom furniture so I'm no stranger to sanding through the grits to get the correct finish. This was a little different... I kept looking for that "feeling" like when you know you've gone far enough. In time, I started to understand the mechanics of the compound, I learned when I had cut enough with the foam pad and what to look for when using the wool pad. I started with a heavy cut foam pad to break down the heavy oxidization and water stains, then moved to my wool pad to make it glisten. I did the entire hull and now I'm working my way around the topside. My wife is astonished at the difference. I also ordered new decals for the boat, and since I don't know when to stop had the Yamaha paint color matched at my old paint shop and will be backing her into a paint booth some time soon. Got new reproduction decals for the motor as well. All thanks to you! I figured I just had to live with an ugly boat but for a few (many) hundred bucks and a few (many) afternoons I have an amazing looking vessel. I just look out at that boat and can't believe I'm the one that made it shine like that!
This: I do videos for this. Thank you. You made my week! I'm very happy someone got something from all this. Now, go tell your pals on Facebook and all the other social networking sites so they can learn too! (you'll need people to share the beer with)
Seriously, thanks for trusting me with some of your boat needs. It means the moon.
So, here's the trick that no detailer will normally tell a boater; wax it BEFORE it begins to fade out. Use 303 aerospace protectant as a "per use" wax and in 5 months, use whatever you want but a real product not some spray. This is how you keep that shine. Most of us wait till they see fading. No, don't wait.
Never new about the alcohol wipe down. Tried it on my 92 SeaRay that I had just cut and polished…….shocked at how much was still left. I love learning new tricks. Thx. Liked and subbed.
Cool, glad to have ya. Tell a friend.
Using some compounds, you need a wipedown or you'll never know. It's why most waxes fail, too much oil in the gelcoat.
I appreciate you showing us your tips, this weekend I’m doing my boat, every 2 years I go all out on it, and it’s time, and I am glad I watched some of your videos, I thought I knew what I was doing, but not even close, again thanks for the information bro!!
Anytime Mike, I like helping if I can. I appreciate the kind words and your comment.
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgoodhow don't you have haze and swirls using the wool pad?
I'm good?
Thank you for not trying to sell me a product. You answered my questions!
Anytime.
Thanks for dropping some knowledge down here in Alabama! My only machine is a Harbor Freight buffer for my 1996 16ft Scout. Ive got some Perfect It EX AC, so I do not need to do a "polishing compound" after the EX AC? Just the EX AC and if im happy with the results apply a polymer based sealant? Its my first time doing my boat so im learning a lot from your videos. Thank you!
Ok, I'm impressed. Make sure you clean the boat after compounding but before you apply a wax (polymer based, yes)
I'm here if you get stuck.
The technique is more important than the buffer, just let it cool down if the buffer gets hot.
Good luck.
Excellent work. Going to try it your way soon, just bought a Wellcraft Classic I'd like to restore and get looking great for many years once I get the mechanical straight first.
I hope these videos help. Thanks for saying hi.
Lee
Hi Lee, I just wanted to thank you for all your videos. I unfortunately stumbled upon your videos later than the other guys out there and ended up buying those products. I've never used any of these tools and thought I'd give it a try. I've never signed in on youtube or commented on anyone's videos in the past. I did for you, out of respect and I'm actually learning something I've never done before. Anyways, I know what you mean by the Haze left by the Menzerna or not using enough or right compound for the job. The lower half of my boat came out pretty good, but not like yours! LOL. I still have topside to do, but it least it will be in the water tomorrow.
Anyways, my boat neighbor gave me a few points on the Makita and taught me not to be afraid of Pressure but I also had you in head about Corners, details, speeds, crosscutting, taking my time for results. I did the whole bottom side & most of the top of a 38' by myself with the Flex & Mez. Looking back I should have used the Makita more, but I was a little afraid of it. Today I did a small section with the Level R Makita, and followed up with the Flex & Mez. Came out really good. I will be excited to try 3m products. YOUR videos are reaching and helping people!! Many Thanks. It would be great if you could do a video on how to determine how bad your gelcoat is and what to possibly use. I know some of it's trial and error. So far, from what I've seen it's Super, Heavy, or Polish, and work backwards if your not sure. If you have Paypal, I'd be glad to send you a few beers!
Best to you!
I deeply appreciate the kind words, being your 1st youtube comment and the beer offer. My work pays me plenty but it touches me that you would offer. I do these for exactly what I read here; you learning/youtube folks teaching, people looking for a better way. I'm happy for you that you wanted to try. I find the diy'er has plenty of choices and it's difficult to weed through the salesman (or woman)
Don't worry, the technique is most important, after that, most products perform the same in skilled hands.
I'm here if you have any questions.
There's basically 3 levels of gelcoat oxidation, deep, medium and light.
Deep typically needs heavy cut, medium and light can be dealt with using Perfect-it, and light too. Sometimes on hard gelcoat (older Mastercraft, boats that never got waxed or have stains from oil that's sat for years), light oxidation needs heavy cut and some soft gelcoat (tiara, searay, Meridian, maxum..) can be dealt with using a "finishing" compound it perfect-it.
A cleaner wax with a polymer base can last but not anything like a proper "cut-polish", buff-n-wax", "the beans" "2-step" or a compounding and a sealant.
Start with the less aggressive stuff (compound) and if it works, great, try the next step up (more aggressive) and see if you save time and still get clarity with that. If so, try mixing the 2, 50/50 and have fun.
Much appreciated!
I'll walk my lot and do a video on oxidation levels and what I'd do. I giggled when I read that as the responding vid will only confuse most people but I'll try to talk through like, 15 boats at random.?
th-cam.com/video/aPK_VT5rU7M/w-d-xo.html
I have learned so much from watching these videos. Thank you Lee. My boat is blue and I needed some instruction desperately. Boat looks good now. It will get even better the next time I do it.
I am still having trouble with the rub rail. It's oxidized and I don't know how to deal with it. People are telling me, use vaseline, use acetone. None of that works. Do you have any tips on getting the oxidation off the rub rail?
Sand paper. They sell new rub rails, it's a pain but works. Plasti-dip? Flex-seal?
We used to grind on it with a combination of 3M's "cleaner wax" and a gritty compound like Heavy Cut by 3M or Meguiar's #67 (also by 3M technically) wool pad and just be careful of heat build-up, keep moving and keep it wet-ish to not burn the rubber. Shy of that, deal with it and enjoy the rest of the boat?
I'm happy to hear that these helped. It's my favorite part of all this, when you guys tell me you watched, listened and went to try it.
Thanks for the comment and kind words.
Lee
I just bought a 90 Malibu Skier. Been watching your videos because I pulled the original lettering and want to try and bring back the yellow that it originally came as. I do not do this for a living but I want my boat to shine like a diamond in a goats a$$! Much love from North Carolina.
I both do and do not want to see this goat. Lol🤣😁😂 OMG, wow! That's some funny shizz right tha'r. Thank you.
I'd say, while people have reported some great success from applying what they've learned, as I was just telling a guy who's been doing this for years, who had a question; boats hate you. They always will and that'll never change. The best we can hope for as owners or detailer is that we make them respect and trust us. If at first you don't succeed, try a different approach. I still do test spots to avoid wasting my time and money. I even have a video where I demonstrate the hours wasted and the fix. I didn't do a test on that boat. I was arrogant. "was" ha.
Compound, wash, inspect and protect. Maintain with boat soaps and spray "waxes" for up to years (also a video or two of)
I'm glad you're feeling like taking this on. I hope to hear how it all comes out. Good luck
Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood I bought the boat that I have wanted since I was a teenager. It’s been used but fairly well taken care of but probably never had a proper buffing out. I have taken the lettering off and will put a printed sticker replacement over the old site , so I’m not expecting miracles, but I would definitely like to get to old dinginess off enough to get to a more yellow than “meh” yellow 🤣😂. Thank you for all the great topics.
Well. I'm rooting for you. I'm assuming that Heavy Cut at the minimum but some Super-Duty can shave off gobs of time if you aren't getting the results you're seeking after the Heavy Cut.
Watch my video on an old, green Cobalt: th-cam.com/video/NtHgj2ACntI/w-d-xo.html
Here you can follow what I do when boats want to stay ugly.
Or:
th-cam.com/video/NYdQbvlTPmA/w-d-xo.html
By the way, the viewers of my channel seem to enjoy before and after pics/video. I'd love to show people that there's more than just my voice screaming this stuff. If you think about it, record some progress or please, come back and let us know how it's going. I can help point you in a direction to try.
My best!
Lee
I noticed you used the blue Meguiars products in the earlier vids, have you concluded that the 3M products are way better? Thanks a bunch for the uploads, loving it. Cheers from Norway!
I still use #67 but hardly, super oily. The 3M line is better.
When do you choose a white foam pad over say a yellow wool or white wool? Is there a specific oxidation level like streaking = wool, while boat pasty white = white wool, somewhere in between = yellow wool?
White foam comes either after compounding w/wool or if light oxidation exists and there's lots of details, snaps, fittings etc.
Yellow wool/nylon pads are only to remove wax (in my world)
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a painted boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
Excellent!
Many thanks!
When using foam pads, do you prefer double sided or single sided white foam compounding pads?
Either for big sections, single-sided when I need laser precision around cleats, deck lines, snaps or multi-faceted topsides with 90° corners.
Damn, that's pretty astonishing. Finished up great tho, impressed!
Thanks man. Appreciate it.
What polymer sealant do u recommend for gel coat?
Flagship by Meguiar's, 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard or Pro Polish by Shurehold
Can you tell me how the Starke Level-R compares to the 3M Super Duty and/or Heavy Cut?
Nope. I don't use it, never have. Noobs like it (Stark) so that scares me off from it.
Bro my wife just moved out I'm with you I'm just detailing baby. I agree with the compound. Nice work bro.
I feel your pain. Good luck, avoid lawyers if you can.
Thanks!
Lee
Yes i let her take what ever she wanted I'm surprise she to only her stuff oh and the brad new clothes i bought her. That's it but yes i have a feeling she's planing some stuff.
Mine thinks, (thought) everything was hers because she's on the titles of every single thing. (I had bad credit for years now an 800) the court's just told her that things are going to change, rather dramatically for her.
I hope you are done and don't have to deal with this. I'm 2 years in and lost everything. I chose poorly.
Hi Lee, my boat is navy blue and has oxidation and scratches and some dock rash. Do you recommend 3m super duty or heavy cut to start with?
Try heavy cut 1st unless you just know it won't do anything. If you use Super-Duty, know that your goal should be even color and a uniform finish, no super obvious swirls. Then, Heavy-cut and let it work down till its almost gone, just an oily surface left. Wipe, clean and inspect. Wax her!
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks appreciate the reply!
Anytime. We'll, at some time if nothing else. 😊
I'm working on a white 1988 Carver yacht. Someone used a pressure washer with bleach and etched the gel coat. It is literally so chalky that anything I put on my rotary or my DA just sticks to it and will not come off. Any suggestions?
Green scotch right pad, water, and time. Then my steps. Super-Duty 1sr. Sucks, sorry.
What if you sanded with 2000 grit before the compounding step with the FG400? Wouldn’t the wet sanding remove the oxidation and the menzerna simply remove the sanding marks? I was taught that heavy oxidation is best tackled by wet sanding first and then compounding after due to compounding by itself not removing all of the oxidation all the time, I’ve experienced this in vehicles. I would try to remove the oxidation with my rotary, double sided wool cutting pad, Meguiar’s 105. It seemed like it removed the oxidation, but in reality it didn’t, so I went back and wet sanded, then followed up with M105 on the rotary and that did the trick. Would the same thing apply in this case using the FG400 achieving excellent results?
I suppose on a boat like this, it would take forever and take tons of material. With the right compound, I'm done in much less time and if you've seen any of my other videos, it lasts. Just compound.
@@Local_Boydidgood thanks! What’s your favorite compound to use with a rotary and double sided wool pad? Something that levels oxidation and sanding marks like no other? 3M super duty? This will be for automotive use, something that will get the job done for those extreme cases where a fender, door, hood need that extra attention or correction before polishing. Do you also have a polish that you like using with the rotary and a wool polishing pad or foam? I have a bunch of double sided wool pads from buff and shine, from the 802-N heavy cut to the 803-YS polishing/finishing pad. I like watching boat detailing channels because you guys still use the rotary and wool pads, I learn a thing or two, the learning definitely never stops.
I think Total Boat compound has potential. I use 3M exclusively now, any wool pad.
Boats to cars, world's apart. Cars take a delicate, calligraphy. Boats, more of a double-barrel shotgun.
They don't care what pad I'm using as long as it's wool. Perfect-it ex ac is my go-to.
thank you for the help. question. After wool pad/3m heavy cut , can you use the same pad, and go straight to 3m polish ? Or do you use orange foam pad or what would be best ??
You can clean the pad out an go to their Perfect-it compound. Same pad.
@@Local_Boydidgood Do you have any advice for waxing by hand?
Small circles, even pressure, even coverage. Use clean soft rags.
@@Local_Boydidgood will I be able to remove the scratches left by the wool pad if done by hand? I’m trying to avoid spending the extra cash for a DA polisher, which I’ve seen you recommend in a few videos.
I’d be very interested in seeing you go through the waxing process after finishing compounding, even if it’s just on a small area.
I suppose you should be able to not leave scratches with a wool pad. If you do have some, don't try to use a "cleaner wax" it'll dull up the finish as if you hadn't compounded. If using something to "fill" the scratches left behind like people try to do with car paint, it doesn't work like that on gelcoat for more than a wash or two at best.
I'd practice getting your wool pad to finish almost flawlessly and then, using any decent marine polish/wax/sealant after a thorough wash to remove compounding oils, you can apply the "wax" by hand. If you've learned how to Compound flawlessly, you can use a soft nylon/wool pad to buff off the "wax"
th-cam.com/video/N8E8gfXJs28/w-d-xo.html
Or remove it with a super soft microfiber cloth.
Used buffers on Craigslist or ebay generally work and are fairly cheap. Hardly used. Just a thought: Will you be doing this again? If so, save your elbows and wrists and spend a buck or two on some good tools. Just an idea.
What foam pad did you use?
I saw a video of a guy that wipes it with windex after he buffs
Any gelcoat compounding pad made of foam. Car foams are different from the boat stuff. Get on land-n-sea, 3m west marine or fisherie's supply Co's websites and look for white foam pads. In boats, they're typically used for compounding.
As long as you clean the surface with something that removes the oils left behind by the compound, you're good. Then apply a "Wax"
Thank you
Any time.
Were u located, and yes she looked like glass mirror,,awesome work
Washington state. Thanks.
Amazing
Thanks!
What is the maximum rpm you would run your dewalt? I am getting close to doing my old Sea Ray
Go slow, it works just fine slow.
@@Local_Boydidgood I read you comments on battery tools, so I understand your position. I am in the trades so I have the batteries. Dewalt's polisher goes up to 2200 rpm and I will only do my boat.
Go slow. I've done enough experiments and shown a few here on the tubes, go slow and be safe. Think of learning a buffer like learning to use nunchucks. If you get comfortable with either, go faster if you want but there's more pain involved when you move wrong in both cases.
To be fair, I suggested that Dewalt only market their cordless buffer to owners.
Reading bottles and the buffer, wheels and compounds.. You'll hear all sorts of suggestions. You ask, I'll answer; go slow. I only go fast when I know I can and you will see that a vast majority of the videos I do, I'm going slow.
What compound do you recommend for boats?
I use a DeWalt DWP849X
If I'm going for perfection in gelcoat, I don't use a ceramic (unless a very new boat) I prefer the ease, cost and reliability of Fire Glaze by RMP
www.restructuremarine.com/fireglaze-products-2
(tell them Lee sent you. No discount and I receive nothing but I'd like them to know 😊)
3M Quick Connect adapter (mfg # 05752) to use with the double-sided compounding pad (3M mfg #05753) or the double-sided polishing pad (3M mfg #05754)
Foam compounding pads 3M (05737-discontinued but awesome)
or (05723-new version 😑)
3M Super-Duty (05954)
3M Perfect It Heavy Cutting Compound (36102)
Perfect-it ex ac compounds by 3M (36060)
Meguiar’s (owned by 3M) Flagship Premium Wax (M6332) Pro Polish by Shurehold or 3M's liquid wax with scotchguard.
I receive no payment for listing these items. I list them because you guys ask and I just thought I would save some time.
Wear protective gear, this stuff can cause cancer and kill you.
Awesome
Thanks 😁👍🏼
What would happen if you used the 3m heavy cut gel coat compound on a car?
th-cam.com/video/FMOsf4sSElg/w-d-xo.html
Depends on the car. Start with Perfect-it ex ac first, see if that works.
People that use menzerna 400 use it as a polishing step. After compounding it is used to remove swirls and it works really good for that.
I see people use it as their 1 compound. If you leave swirls, you are using the wrong compound/pad, period. The only thing I can't compound to perfection is Super-duty by 3m. Everything else made for boats, should get you down to brilliant with a wool pad, foam pad definitely..
I basically did this for your weekend warriors who watch you tubers use these oily car paint compounds and wonder why they can't keep a boat looking good for very long. I wanted to display the difference once the oil is removed, to show just how much it can hide and fool someone.
So using menz 400 on a orange foam pad to remove swirls and holograms left over from white wool Is incorrect?
If you've left swirls, the last compound you used on a soft foam pad on either a rotary or dual action should be enough to remove them. Swirls are left by bad buffing techniques, not the compound so it has more to do with the pad, buffer and operator than anything else, remove the thing adding swirls out of that list and you can buff to perfection with a wool pad and not need a DA. It takes time and practice and it's why so many "boat detailers" use so many products and steps, they don't know how to buff the right way and need filler steps to fix what they messed up.
Lre
@@Local_Boydidgood So instead of using an orange foam pad and menz 400 on a flex to remove holograms your saying you just need to work perfect it ex ac longer with a wool pad in your rotary?
And by soft foam pad like a white foam compounding by 3m?
Will washing the boat with dawn dish soap remove the oils to prepare for a ceramic coating or do you have to wipe with alcohol every pass?
Ceramics are best on new boats and best when applied to a "stripped" Hull. Use both to ensure a good adhesive bond of the Tio2 to the gelcoat. Anything left over will ruin your ceramic coating and cost you time and money if warranties are involved so always do your best if applying a ceramic or, use "Fire Glaze +" on your gelcoat and never waste time with ceramics again.
@@Local_Boydidgood Very informative thankyou what percent ipa 70%?
You're welcome. My choice, yes.
@@Local_Boydidgood lets say customer just wants wax as protection Could you get away with just washing the boat with dawn dish soap or would ipa after each pass
, if a customer wants only a wax or a protectant applied, yes wash the boat with Dawn dishwashing soap and water and a very soft mitt or a very very soft deck brush Drive the boat and then apply your polish it will last a lot longer then if you simply polish the boat as normal. Good question.
I have a 07 Sailfish orange. I compounded it a few years ago not with 3m heavy. I had a detailing company wet sand and compound last year. Looks streaky and blotchy oxidation. I’m going to go at it again this year. Would you recommend 3m heavy with a foam or wool pad? If this doesn’t work I’m thinking about painting it. Thanks
Wool. Use a 3M wool pad (some wobble so buy 3-4 and return the wobbly ones) Heavy Cut, if worked for a while will break down to a very fine finish. Not as fine as following up with Perfect-it ex ac would give you after using Heavy Cut but close)
Sorry about the boat drama but I believe that you are close to a solution, next step is trying it out.
I'll be around if you get stuck.
Lee
Thanks Lee. I’ll definitely let you know
Cool. Good luck!
Your gelcoat is about 10-20 mils thick from new. Think a nice, reusable plastic bag from a grocery store is 2.5 mils thick. Fold it 3 times and you'll see what you can expect for thickness. If you're not seeing a fiberglass mesh pattern or another color, you generally have depth to play with.
Focus on the slower cross-cutting I show here, be deliberate and if you remember where the patches are, go even slower there.
Once you've done one pass with Heavy Cut (assuming you're only wanting to buy one compound and not following up with Perfect-it ex ac) Do one more pass (use less, focus less, just massage the boat till you see in the reflection, past the phase, what you think will look good after you've wiped it off. Clean it and when applying the "wax" you use, try and use a soft foam pad and a random orbital buffer. If you don't have that tool, small little circles and a Terry cloth towel
Buffing off wit the softest wheel you can get and apply less than half the pressure of what you did when compounding. Stay as flat as you can and avoid chasing small stuff you can get with a microfiber towel later.
Give her a decent wash (non wax-stripping soap, Google it)
Keep clean, spray detailer after each use or once every few months.
Enjoy.
@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you for all the info. I may put up a vid with what the boat actually looks like. I’m the second owner. Not sure how much compounding was done prior to me. The shine is real nice( I poly it often since I’ve owned the boat) but I just can’t tell if it’s oxidation or what. It has some ghost lettering that I the detailer was supposed to remove but couldn’t. I’d be happy just to blend the color.
Lee, we gotta meet one day sir. Our general attitude on life is so similar. Love your outlook man. Love the hidden info in tour video, online one Pro I know that promotes Menzerna 400 on boats. Rhymes with Bake
fake drake :)
Saw your #, I will reach out. Thanks.
He recommends it as a polish, not a heavy cut. I use merzerna 400 to polish out alot of swirls, and I do use alcohol to check after. If you want I could send a video. But I do recommend the way lee does stuff.
Sorry i am car detailer asked to paint correct speedboat .
Can 8 metres speedboat , white colour be paint corrected using 15mm da teamed up with heavy cutting compound and foam pad and then left behind haze be hidden by wax ?
If paint, yes.
th-cam.com/video/FMOsf4sSElg/w-d-xo.html
@@Local_Boydidgood need to do my first speedboat, not a car :)
Yes, I see. This car has paint, your boat has paint (your words) same situation.
If your white is gelcoat, no. You can not get a good shine with a DA. It will take many hours.
Use your language, I will use Google translate app.
@@Local_Boydidgood
@Local boydidgood Ty vm
I didn't know about gel coat , my apologies.
I thought boats and cars, both had same kind of paint.
Did not know there was so much difference between gel coat and (paint - car paint).
I suppose i will have to buy rotary and massive pads and more compound and waxes
F... K me i have so many of them things for car.......
If "paint corrected" means make gelcoat shine, not really. You can get a gloss but not a shine like paint with a DA. Gelcoat is best with a rotary (Dewalt DWP849X) and a wool pad. Then you can use your DA after that to remove swirls/holograms.
A detailer on TH-cam uses menzerna 400 on a LC orange foam on a flex 3401 to remove swirls and holograms left behind from a woo pad on a rotary. Is he getting false results? Sorry if it's a stupid question i was shocked to see this.
Tell Drake to stop wasting time and money. Menzerna is super greasy for a compound, great for a car, not so good on gelcoat. It can very easily hide things both while working and if not washed afterwards to remove the oils from the Menzerna. Car products for cars, boat products for boats.
Menzerna can be used but it's a tricky girl and you can only "wax" after a wash down and an inspection to make sure you got everything looking right (bright lights or the sun)
Good question
Drake does not recommend 400 for heavy oxidation. Only light swirls. As he’s stated it’s really only a polish on gel.
He'd be better off learning how to use a rotary and never worry about swirls in the first place.
Total boat compounds are great and I hear good things about Stark level but I've never had a problem using 3M compounds to get anything out. All my vids are just that. If I use a DA, it's to go the extra mile on dark gelcoat, nothing else.
I've tried the Menzerna stuff, the shop uses it in cars. I'm no expert there but I won't use any Menzerna on a boat.
You don’t use a wool pad to take that off?
To take what off, sorry.
I used a wool pad to Compound this and then a foam pad to further smooth the surface. I removed my polish with a random orbital polisher.
So you recommend a wash after a compound,then you put a wax
Exactly.
Lee, I definitely wouldn’t use M400 as a first step on oxidized gelcoat, but I might as a second (polishing) step. But to be honest, with all of the marine-specific products that are available, I don’t understand the fascination with M400. Even in the world of automotive paint correction, M400 wouldn’t be the first heavy cut compound that most detailers much reach for. Having said all that, in fairness to those guys who (for some reason) like M400 as a cutting compound, I don’t think you gave it an honest shot. I noticed that you spent less time applying the product than you normally would. Just sayin’ brother.
Many do however, or #67 or #91 by Meguiar's (super oily)
I just wanted a good explanation of why I clean my boats after compounding also, why I use the products I generally use.
As to an "honest shot" perhaps but I gave it an average detailer pass.
Just givin’ ya the gears Lee.
It's all good. I agree, I didn't do my normal but to waste time and use 400 was a good demo of what can be hidden. Swirls oxidation and hope.
Wow
Thanks.
That’s exactly what my black Cobalt keeps doing. 😢
Hope any of my other vids can help.
Lee
I use the 3m & total buff, both cut well & no scratches.
The next morning there will be be light grey spots that get bigger.
Seems like al the compound doesn’t come off. 🤷♂️
You won't see that in any of my vids, thankfully.
Use a 3M wool pad. They dig the most. Some wobble so buy 3-4 and take the bad ones back.
"grey spots getting bigger.." Do you make sure you compounded out all the oxidation with a good wash/inspection afterwards?
Using what wax?
I feel like I have, had it wet sanded 2 years ago, came back pretty quickly.
The boat stays on a lift in a boathouse that is covered, but open sides.
Baffling thing is where Sun hits it comes cleaner.
The freeboard is the toughest.
One side gets no direct Sun.
OK, then one last trick.. Try a section (just to see if this works)
Do what you normally do but this time, apply the wax about twice as thick as normal. When applying, as a last step in the "wipe-on," phase, slap your applicator against the wax while it's still wet to make a pattern in the wax like "popcorn ceilings" in older homes. This makes an even layer of wax to absorb into your super dry gelcoat (assumption on my part) You'll leave the wax for a few hours before you buff it off.
Now, if that's all done and works, repeat for the whole boat.
Sometimes the wax gets gummy on the pad if you try and pull it off before it's fully dry. You want all the oils from your boat wax to fill up the gelcoat with all the oils it has lost over the years.
So the idea behind this is to allow all the tools from the wax to have a chance to soak deeply into the gelcoat so that the color can come through.
It's also possible that your Gelcoat is so thin (possibly) that it can't hold oils and so fades out super fast. I'm not there to look, smell or touch it so all this is a guess.
Options if nothing wotks:
Vinyl wrap
Re-gelcoat
Paint
Olive oil wipe down (avocado oil works too)
Get used to it..? (sorry, bad joke)
Lee
Why so angry at people who make money off selling products they believe in?Just curious because sounds like you have a chip on your shoulder about that and younger detailers making money?I myself am 50 years old and don't claim to be the best because I have tact.Certain products work well for certain people and their system period.I don't brand shame them, to much of that going on in this world.I dig what you are doing and you look like you get great results but man just chill on the calling out people stuff.
When people sell a different product weekly, don't show their work in the sun and charge too much for their work, I call them out.
I'm 49 and like you, have been doing this a long time. When a 19-25 year old claims to know the best of anything in this business, I obviously question it but when they're lying weekly just to get paid, I won't let that go unquestioned.
If you want to support that kind of hack ethic, great. I don't which is why I don't accept affiliate offers from anyone, nor will I, ever. I want people to 1st, learn a technique then find products that work for them. My technique works, I can do it blindfolded and without wiping the compound off (see vids) I'm not selling this, showing how easy repeatable and efficient it is.
th-cam.com/video/yO7rMp2jtWU/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/drYep542ML4/w-d-xo.html
This is a style learned after doing up to 200 boats a year for over a decade. I've tried all kinds of products to make things go faster, last longer and what I pitch are those things.
This is a marketplace of ideas, all of them. If I want to call BS on someone, I'm going to. I admit I'm a bit of an a-hole but I treat my viewers the way I'd want to be treated, with honesty.
If you've been doing this for 25 years, you know most boaters don't know good from amazing. If a kid is selling the hype of some new products, chances are they don't know either and haven't seen any long-term testing to back up their claims, I have.
Are you saying that if you didn't have tact, you would claim to be the best? Defeats saying you have tact doesn't it? I'm better at this than most doing this but mostly, I try to help average detailers get good and to help DIY'ers learn the easier, faster way to enjoy their boats. My tact is, I'm not getting called out for shilling or hyping anything. I even trash talk 3m from time to time, nobody is safe and I like it that way, most of my viewers do too even if they think I'm a dick. Next.
How long did this entire boat take you? Also what is the length of the boat? Ty
I don't recall exactly. It was a year ago. 2 days? 33 feet? She's back for more luv'n currently actually. I'll be doing a full vid on her so if you want, follow along. I don't hide squat if I have the time to video.
@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you. I ask because I just recently did an 18 year old black Cobalt and it still had some cloud to it in the direct sunlight, otherwise looked good. Got Menzerna Liquid Sandpaper now for next one!
I mean, if you have to sure but No. Super-Duty. Then Heavy Cut and then Perfect-it ex ac. Menzerna is a car product, not made for boats... It's the point of that whole video. Use marine products made for Gelcoat or your finish will suffer, the "wax" won't last as long and you have to wash it often to even see what's really going on.
@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you very much for the information. I will definitely be looking into this, in Canada.
I hope you find some. If not, just use the Menzerna hard with a 3M wool pad (they cut the hardest of all of the wool pads I've seen) clean and inspect but even if you like it, hit it one more time to ensure that you have gotten all the oxidation out.
Wow that boat was nasty man nothing you cant handle though great job!
Lol the end was so funny man hahaha
I got a black one to do tomorrow a big Malibu luxury well black strip lol thank god hate black boats
Thanks.
They're a pain to keep black, amazing when done but a pain.
@@Local_Boydidgood ya they sure are i wish you weren't so far away i would come take the course not from that other guy who waves his hands around and has stuff all over his face lol
I personally use PRESTA Products 💪🏿⛵ & I'm not paid by them. They should pay my as much as I use them
Reach out to them, sometimes companies send free products or merchandise.
He's absolutely right. Even compounding isn't always good enough. At times you absolutely have to wetsand & then compound, polish & use a wax/sealant. This guy is Old School & I like his talk in this video.
These cats out here today are paid slaves. I'm all for someone making money but when companies steal your voice, that's a bad thing. You have to do & say what they want you to 🤔
But anyway COBALTS & MONTEREY'S oxidize badly & deep in the gelcoat pores. I did a Black COBALT years ago. It was extremely oxidized. I compunded the boat, it was absolutely beautiful & Black. I ended my day & came back the next morning & it was white again 🤔😂. Thank God I didn't do the entire boat. I started to study the makeup of different gelcoats & there's a chemical in the gelcoats of COBALTS & MONTEREY'S that aren't in the other ones
Well, in almost 20 years, I've seen 2 Boats that compound couldn't fix. I'll avoid sanding for the next 20.
@@Local_Boydidgood ......... It's emphatically very possible but I've run into some very oxidated boats. Why waste an enormous amount of time combating such rather than minimizing the amount of friction used in compounding.
@@Local_Boydidgood ..... I mean I love your work & what's funny I've had one of your videos running through my head for years now & I've only seen it once. I believe it was a COBALT.
Ah, being fair, there are plenty of boats AI pass on from 100 yards away as nothing shy of asgotgun would help it.
There are boats where I've thought that sanding would have been the better choice.
Prime example:
th-cam.com/video/h5seC2AOWE0/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
And then there's the tender that hung on the stern of a sailboat for 15 years that even the yard guys said "No" to. Sure, it took me all day and I admit, sanding would be better initially in cases like this:
th-cam.com/video/Aw_m9AOUSBc/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
Most people watching my stuff are just DIYr's. If I can show people a way to get a shiny boat, without becoming an expert sander (who would also has to buff after sanding) In a simple, repeatable and cost effective way to avoid all the effort of sanding, I can't not.
As to what I see most often, I've raced sanders in videos, on Cobalt. Not trying to sound boastful but I won. I also, didn't damage the boat.
A good sander is worth all the money in the world but so is someone who achieves the same results in less than half the time, a fraction of the cost and ease to get into without doing damage?
In a few of my videos I give props to some sanding, just not on 98% of what still runs and is brought to a shop for a detail. Just my opinion. I respect yours. I know there are places where bass boats are the norm and with flake, sanding is often the best and only solution when it crazes. I see one every 5 years at most. Our experience can differ, it's ok.
Lee