Hi Vince. There are loads of packets of random plastic gears on Amazon or ebay and they are very cheap. Keep up the good videos. You have the patience of a saint.
This video is brilliant. My mate was given one of these for Xmas 1979 aged 9 and we used it a lot. The controller wasnt digital proportional that we take for granted these days and it literally ate batteries at an alarming rate. Intresting at the time you needed a license as it had a radio TX that he had to get from the post office. Great video thanks for sharing.
I had one of these, I got it for Christmas 1979, I had actually wanted the Tamiya Sandscorcher BUT the Tamiya kit with all the radio gear and batteries came in at around £150, The Truckertronic was ~£ 35 from Boots. I just paid the same amount for one on eBay which has the same faults yours has. I look forward to getting it running, If not as standard I will upgrade all the internals to modern control with a proper speed controller. I have to say I was gritting my teeth as you were unboxing and then pulling it apart as I know how to do it thanks to a very inquisitive childhood mind.
OMG This brought back so many memories. I had one of these as a child and I absolutely loved it. Think my cousin eventually was given it when I stopped using it. I remember there was a problem with it, in that the steering didn't work very well. Love the videos. Mick. Northern Ireland
I have a couple thoughts on how to fix this. The wear in the plastic can actually be eliminated quite effectively. You can disassemble the gearbox for the steering (i saw that it looked to be just clipped together), then you can fill in the holes with some strong hard epoxy, or some of that plastic weld, and then drill out new holes, that matches the outer diameter of the axle, thereby reducing the play, or even eliminating it, if you can get the tolerances right. Now, the proper solution would be to drill out the worn holes, and then glue in brass bushings, as metal on plastic isn't exactly great, but that would probably be more work than it's worth for a piece like this. As for the cracked gears, there's a reliable way to fix this as well. You can drill through the gear, all the way through the axles, and then pin it, using some regular wire. That prevents the gear from spinning on the axle. It's a very reliable fix for stuff like this. Just don't drill through the teeth them selves, do the collar, if you have to drill through the teeth on a gear, make sure it's not where it contacts another gear. Also, to strengthen the gear where it is cracked, you can glue on a small piece of plastic on each side of the gear, going over the crack, to reinforce the plastic. I'd recommend using a small vice with some rubber jaws, to close the crack as much as possible, before doing this. And once again, if you drill through the reinforcing pieces, through the gear itself, and then pin it on each side of the crack, it will last forever, whereas glue alone won't be a lasting solution. It will come apart again eventually, if you just glue it. Pinning is a highly effective way of repairing and strengthening all kinds of things, something you should look into. :) Also, i saw in another video that you are struggling to find good superglue. I prefer using glue from the brand Loctite. It's much easier to apply than other brands i've tried, it sets much faster (less chance of glue getting on the fingers or other stuff), and it's very strong. You can also use i think it's baking powder, to set superglue pretty much instantly. It's a mess though. Finally, there's a chance the contacts inside the motor itself are dirty, causing the connection, and thereby the motor to be weak, and unreliable. Tronicsfix had this issue on a couple of the toys he repaired in your latest challenge. Namely the alarm clock, and the same astro pinball machine that you've also looked at. :) I don't know if you'll even read this, but i hope you do, 'cause i'd really like to see this neat little truck back "on the road"! :)
Super glue has an age limit. people do not know that. After time, the activator evaporates and the glue will not set up. I have run across old super glue that wouldnt even stick my fingers together. If it feels oily its shot. I also think the glue absorbs the oils from the plastic container it comes in. the little dollar store vials that come in foil pouches lasts longer.
i was going to suggest 3d printing new gears and maybe the motor being bad just on its last legs so to say i lookd online briefly for gears i think metal would be great options
@Christian, excellent suggestions to fix the truck, and all are within the youtuber's skill set. I think the motor needs a thorough cleaning and lubrication, similar to what was done on the pinball machine. Metal gears would be a great alternative for the plastic ones. I would love to see the truck fixed. It certainly is a challenge worth watching.
Nice attempt Vince, at least this wasn't a bad luck for the competition! :D Always impressed with how you show your failures to go with your victories!
Well, most of Europe, or anywhere thats not on the North/South american continent has the Cab-over-engine build type, not just for length, but also for maneuverability for tight roads and corners. I did see some front-engine models from scania out by the OMV refinery near Vienna, but those are a rare sight. America can afford to have those front engine trucks running on their roads, because they built their roadsystems and cities wider from the start, as they had a lot more free/flat ground to work with. They have some COE models too, but aren't very often used.
yeah azurespeed, company i used to work for had a couple scania bullnoses here in scotland too, ive spent some time in the states too and by far most popular newer ones i saw were usually fleetliner and volvos bullnoses now tbh as volvo started that model in a big way a few years back, cab overs in america are usually more expensive (costler to build for what you get so as you said more route dependant in the choice of vehicle) and as you said more interior space for less etc plenty cab overs still around tho over there and always have been, think less kenworth (smokey and the bandit) and more kenworth ke100 (bj and the bear) :) even my stateside workplace still had 2 old cab over internationals for more local stuff for that very reason your getting at :)
I loved the old beast cabover's from the US, some of them veritable palaces on wheels with the cabin and facilities etc, whilst our old Scammell, Anderson, Foden's and ERF's the driver had to make do with a kip on the seats and finding a early opening transport cafe which had facilities like showers etc for drivers.
@@gimble8638 Years ago working at a scrappy in Erith, Kenworth had their racing truck depot next door to us, them were big big scary lorries that could go up to 70 as quick as a performance car O.o
I think you can fix this one Vince!!! I had the same thoughts another guy had to put glue on the cracked gears and then put them under a little pressure to hold it together until the glue hardens up. You might take the motor apart and clean/lube it and see if it helps. If not, I'm betting you can buy a new motor pretty cheap. TronicsFix cleaned up two motors! Don't let him show you up! :-)
OMG!! I had this when I was a kid! If I am honest, it wasn’t great, it was really slow. When the truck reversed, the bit on the back of the truck that the trailer connected to, that would click up and down and you had to time reversing as to wether you would catch the trailer or not! The trailer converts to tanker and flat bed, you just lift the cases off to reveal each model. The steering was proportional so you could fully control the steering. The light on the top flashed. It also ate battery like it was going out of fashion!
Ohhh so that is how the fifth wheel trailer thing works, thanks for all the info :-) I may revisit this as reading all the comments has given me some ideas on how to fix it :-)
worth going over it all again as others have said below, i was shouting at the screen everytime you mentioned the bulb lol, back ends off so wouldnt work anyway vince!!! lol, worth another bash id say and as usual great vid :)
Great truck sounds like the motor requires the commutator cleaning it has some dead spots because when you force the steering you cannot turn the worm gear in reverse it just pulls on the motor commutator and hence the brushes will not be in the correct contact on the commutator. It needs some washers on to remove the movement. The gears can be repaired as said by some other comments. The pot tells the electronics that the steering has full turn to stop the motor moving and damaging the worm gear. Great content keep up the good work.
Awww, don't give up. Pit it away and have a think. The motors deffo need stripping down and servicing. I fthey are too knackered new ones are easy to get. The gears are fixable or even replaceable. the bushes can be lines to take up the wear. It might take a lot of love and devotion, but I still think this is very repairable.
Hi Vince, I love looking at this era of late 70's vintage toys, always the sort of thing I wanted but at the time was out of our price range. In 1980 I did have a radio controlled BMW car, this had that system, where it just went straight forward, until you pressed the transmitter button, which made it reverse & turn, Same battery set up too, 9 volt for the radio section & 4 AA for the drive motor, the AAs lasted for about 2 days at the most! There would be enough room in that battery compartment to fit a rechargeable battery pack. As other people have said , needs a new motor & gears. I remember back in the day when you were supposed to have a licence for radio controlled toys, but no one bothered! I think it was because they transmitted on 27 Mhz, which was the same as CB radio, which was popular around that time. By the way, I've changed my TH-cam channel name, from 'Richy, The Tinkerer & Wanderer', to 'NOW, That's Richy.' I think it's a bit more catchy & easier for you to remember. Don't forget to Subscribe & ping that bell 🔔, if you haven't done already! 👍
The motor has neither carbon brushes, nor any ventilation holes for gunk to go through. The old 2 left hands method of cleaning and greasing everything doesn't work here. The only thing wrong with this motor are worn out bushings and loose worm gear, that's why it's screeching so much, no grease will regenerate worn out parts.
We here in the states back in the 70s on up to the 90s had length restrictions on our trucks. Hence why cab over engine tractors (coe) was very y common for three decades. During the late 90s the restrictions were lifted now our truck trailer combos usually top out at around 80 feet in length
Hey Vince. I fixed an old car, the motor was worn like yours and it would also move out like that. What I did to make it work was to take a flat piece of metal folded into an L shape. I placed it over the motor shaft like this -L where the - is the motor shaft. In essence it acts like a spring that keeps the shaft from jumping out. It looks like you might have enough room to screw something like that on to the top plastic part.
Great advice, I have revisited this truck and I thought the same thing about forcing the end (opposite end to the worm gear) in to stop it popping out and seizing :-)
I have a wee idea on how to repair this, maybe try and disassemble the motors and clean them and re grease them, i was so excited to see how this was gonna look when finished, i hope you revisit this one.
A little helpful piece of advice is for the gears they do sell them on ebay. I've always done repairs many different types of robots and sometimes I have to glue some gears but most of times I replace them. Would be cool to do toy repair collab lol
Morning Vince, always enjoy your videos, but think you should definitely revisit this repair as you can source those nylon gears online. I used to mess about with RC models etc and you could definitely buy those gears online, you just need the dimensions, tooth counts etc. The electronics of the truck seem fine which is arguably trickier to fix/diagnose. Likewise regarding the motor I'd start by reconditioning it, just like the Big Bird clock fix TronicsFix did. You can turn this fix around mate!
Also I'm sure you can find replacement gears out there, or have some 3D printed for you. The worm gear and the next gear are just too far away. Isn't there a way to move the motor a bit, or the worm gear a bit further out on the motor shaft. But you can definitely get a new motor (if you can figure out what that is for a motor) that would have no play.
Great vid as usual. Try to take the gear OUT of the shafts and use a bit of glue over the crack. Super glue may not work if made of nylon. also, a trick you can use (I have used it on helping repairing gears on tape decks) is: CUT a circle of thin plastic with the same diameter. For example, from a X-RAY printout (dont know the proper name in english). Then glue the thin plastic "washer" over the gear and thats all. The "washer" will take the stress now as since it goes all around the piece wont crack. Then drop a very small drop on of glue on the shaft to gear union. As per the motor, you can source them, they are pretty common toy type ones. Dont install the shaft until the glue if fully cured.
A fun video! =D You need to fix those splits, but also lubricate with molycote. The splits can be difficult to deal with, but removing them carefully and get epoxy in the gap, and a tiny bit on top and on the bottom overlapping the split. Once hardened carefully try and re-fit to the shaft. The alternative is you could 'manufacture' replacements of those gears using a silicon mold and liquid plastic. It's a lot of work but I think this could be brought back to life! It's perhaps also worth getting some deoxit into the motor - I suspect dirty brushes / commutator.
If you can buy an exact replacement - great! But we are talking about where there is no replacement available. Sometimes with a rare piece of kit it is worth taking the time and money to manufacture a replacement part. 3D printing is perhaps another good solution - granted the printer costs a bit...
There is no "if" in this case... Those are standard, off the shelf 0,5 module teeth gears used in the whole toy industry. Often available on ebay in pack of 100+ in all sizes.
Hi Vince, sorry to see that this couldn't be fixed. However I recently purchased a faulty 1982 radio cassette boombox where the nylon gears were all broken on the cassette mechanism. So I went on to eBay and purchased a pack of assorted nylon gears brand new, and hey ho it all worked fine after that. Most people would have just chucked it in the bin, but I persevered and got it going again.
Hi Vince! love your videos. Couldn’t you hear the motor bearing screaming? A bit of grease would help that. Also disassemble the motor and clean the commutator. Also you might be able to shim the motor a bit closer to the gear to prevent it locking up. There are a ton on gears for sale on the net, I think you cold find some pretty cheap. Please do revisit this project it can still have a lot of video fun in it!
Seems like if you were able to take the motor apart for both you might be able to fix the issues but I'm not too sure I usually work through stuff like you when doing repairs don't be afraid to really take it apart
The steering gear is made of a nylon plastic. The problem with that is that it shrinks as it ages. This causes parts pressed on shafts to split from the pressure. It can't be glued successfully because it is so slippery. Really determined hobbyists have gone so far as to make replacement parts by filing blank nylon or Delrin. Others have made copies of the needed part out of epoxy compounds like J-B weld. You might find that all of these trucks have the same issue.
The type of plastic determines what you can use to repair things like that. I generally replace the drive components as well as transmitter and receiver. By doing this it actually improves the value because you are making it hobby grade from toy grade. meaning you can replace faulty parts. Something we all know toy grade cannot be done.
The worm gear was clearly hanging on the cracked portion and this is why it would periodically jam, CA or pinning or wire or staple methods could work good here, then WD40d the potentiometer that tells the control unit where they steerage is at, it sounded confused, they get jumpy/noisy in resistance when old and since this is part of a control loop you can't have it being noisy or it will tell the motor to suddenly reverse direction or speed up suddenly which will wear things out further.
This ties in with the Movie CONVOY, you would need to see if someone could printout new gears as the old ones might be about to fall to bits, there must be someone that sells gears or if it would be possible to get brass gears including the worm gears, Germanium transistors tend to go short circuit after a while because whiskers grow between the electrodes of the transistor so replacing the transistors with BD131 to replace the NPN Germanium transistors and the BD132 transistors for the PNP Germanium transistors.
It does yes, I think it came out a year or 2 later. Thanks for the tips, if you are interested I revisited this truck in a follow up video a couple of days later. I cleaned out the motors and tackled the gearbox again :-)
Part of the reason American trucks have maintained the extended front is because of the size of the country. Many routes may take a day or two and the driver will sleep in the truck. Unfortunately, the sleeping quarters are where many European trucks put the engine.
The flat fronted trucks are for a reason in the UK they are for small towns and villages with narrow streets, the flat fronted trucks makes it easy to reverse, in tight places when a sharp lock is need if you had 8 to 10 feet in front of you, you would never get around because your nose sticks out to far. That is fact.
It may be that the gears with the hairline cracks aren't meshing correctly, or occasionally the teeth will go out of alignment and lock everything up. The torque of the motor will widen the gap between teeth. I'd take the gear off the shaft, then clamp the crack together and plastic weld. Then refit to the shaft and it may work, obviously no guarantees. May be too late for this one but I've seen this sort of thing before.
Shame you couldn't get this one working. I'd say gears are the main issue, have you heard of hobbies, they are online and sell gears plus many other items that may help you in the future. They also sell metal gears and the prices are not to bad either. I really hope you come back and fix this. Great video though
La verdad tengo el mismo trailer yo no pude hacerlo trabajar por que venia sin control, y la tracción se destrozo...pero ya esta trabajando y ya tiene dirección proporcional, totalmente un gran proyecto...
We need to start a betting system. Will be fix it, will be not or will be make it worse. 😂 Having had similar when I was a kid, I found the best way to do it was to use a hammer...didn't fix it, but made me feel better. 😜
ok my two cents: put a wedge at the back of the motor to hold the front against the other gear. and possibly either of the gears' spindles are bent? idk, but thanks for the video!
**Addendum** The motor works, so it's highly likely it just needs a good cleaning on its bushes and bush contacts. With the worm cog I feel it needs to be pulled away from the motor so that more of the worm is in contact with the cog its driving, hope my staple stitch "see my post below" works for you as good as it has for me.. One more thing, Could it be the electronics is sensing high torque on the motor and thus to save wear N tear it switches it off?
It might sound like a lot of work, but if you were to machine new gears out of something like delrin, or nylatron, and bought replacement motors you would be good to go. Plastic gears of that era often crack like that, and the grease used on it only made it worse. The cracks changed the spacing of the teeth, gluing would make them solid, but that doesn't address the change in geometry.
The flat front trucks are called cabovers because the cabin of the truck sits on top of the engine and drive line to shorten the over all length and we have them here in the US as well though not because of any law. Some of the New England towns and especially New York City really need Cab over trucks because they have a small turning radius than conventional trucks that have the conventional engine out front with the long hood or as you call it a bonnet. I used to be a truck driver and it took me to all the continental US states and all over Canada. The movie Convoy and the song of the same name by C.W. McCall was very popular in the 1970s because I was there and had it on 8 track. Rubber Duck keep that truck rolling...
Hair line cracks can be repaired with a cut down staple and a stinking hot soldering iron with a very fine Tip, Using a minimum of two staple pieces placed over the split, I removed the nylon cog from the axle so that the split can be closed during the heating of the staple to apply what I call a "Staple Stitch" Once the outer stitch is embedded enough on both sides of the split or crack, I then epoxied over the staple, super glue over the staple may also work, Just glueing the split seems to only work for a short while BTW, So thats why I thought of seeing if a staple would work more permanently, The first Toy "Train" I repaired was around 48 years ago, and it got used by my kids and their kids, Might even get use for another generation or two if the teeth dont wear down to much, anyway I digress. Now with the axle stitch "Inner portion of the cog closest to the axle" - if it's at all possible with the staple stitch try and place the staple so that it is right on the axle, so when the cog is placed back into position the staple takes some of the Torque by actually contacting it ever so slightly making it a better binding fit for the cog, again super glue might help if the extra torque is needed - OK back to the video and Good Luck Vince, oh and as usual I dropped a Like..
Nice to see you got a kudos shoutout from Retro Future today and I agree with him you ain't an amateur any longer hehe Just think in years to come ppl will be watching MMV vids to show their kids what us mere mortals had as toys and games as they watch it on their arm embedded direct to brain Playstation 93 and thinking we were all cavemen ;)
Thanks Ian, I just watched his vid before looking at these comments, it is nice to kick back and watch rather than 'Do' for a change. Hopefully he will get it fixed on the next visit :-) Cheers for the advice on this truck, I am uploading the revisit as I type :-)
@My Mate VINCE I think you should look into converting that AWESOME truck into a modern RC vehicle. Rip out the guts and remake it with small modern RC parts. That would be epic. And I think some enthusiasts would pay for something like that. I don't have a clue to the complexities of doing something like that, however it is just an idea, if you even see it :P
With sillicone molding and epoxy it's possible to make new gears but it takes a lot of time an effort, but you need a good one for making the mold and it's also not cheap. So if you really want it's repairable, but is it worth it?
I'm cringing from all those comments with bad advices 🤣 This toy is easily fixable. You can buy new gears for pennies from eBay or RC shops, those are standard 0,5 module teeth gears, used in all toys for a very long time. Cracks in the gears increase the distance between two teeth and make the mechanism jam up. Gluing is not a good idea since it fills the gap but not eliminates it, it's better to just buy new gears, they often come in packs of all sizes, it's just important to buy 0,5 module gears. The engine has neither carbon brushes, nor any ventilation holes for gunk to go through. The old 2 left hands method of cleaning and greasing everything doesn't work here. The only thing wrong with this motor are worn out bushings and loose worm gear, that's why it's screeching so much, no grease will regenerate worn out bushings. This motor is also a standard size and can be replaced easily. The controls seem wonky and unintuitive because this toy is multiplexing one radio channel for controlling both steering and going, so it's an interesting example and should be saved and repaired, not scrapped for parts or gutted. Also it's an early attempt at proportional steering, so gutting it would be a crime, it's a historical example of toy engineering. I would love to fix it for you because it's worth saving and a shame to waste.
Hi, I did a revisit on this Truck a couple of days after this video. I won't give away the outcome but you might want to watch it when you have the time. Thanks for the advice :-)
I was yelling "it's the cracks in the gear" because when that crack spreads open then the gear teeth get out of alignment and don't mesh properly. Weld the crack. Speaking of crack, your videos are crack for me apparently. :)
For one, the motor has a dry bearing, get that sorted first, you can hear it screaming. Take it apart (gently) and remove all the old dry grease, clean and re-grease. This will increase the motors power considerably. The gears are a problem, not sure what to do there... You screwed the large white screw head in and out and I believe that is a limit stop.That was probably set in the factory. Having turned it, that is probably set wrong now.
Would not the opposing forces of springs have helped hold the pinion in place? Couple of them little pen springs cut and trimmed to apply just enough force to keep the pinion up against the worm gear? I suspect there may have been "compliance" springing in the original product that prob snapped off or rotted off with age, it doesn't have to be powerful spring but enough to keep it firm in either direction when power applied via worm gear. Gears can easily be found if you hunt around, measure the teeth, the teeth type and the diameter of the teeth ring plus the ID of the shaft and plenty of makers of such things or you could 3d print some yourself from one of the many maker projects online if you had a 3d printer :) If you know a machinist with a small lathe he could knock up some brass ones from a bit of bar stock and it would never fail again hehe
here in the states a truck is limited by the trailer. Max legal length for all 50 states is 52' not counting the cab. but you can pull longer loads, you just need to pay for a permit.
I would say the worm gear is too far in. The middle of the worm gear needs to be in contact with the flat gear. As you have it, the very edge of the worm gar is touching the flat gear.
I have one of this Trucks as kid :D So much fun. Sadly i loaded the trailer with all of my other cars and try to pull it and than the connection brokes. I was so sad. Sry for my bad eng :)
The worm gear should cross the zenith of the other gear. The spiral should be centered to the high spot of the other gear. In other words your worm gear should be extended away from the motor.
Have a look on Amazon.co.uk for 'motor gears' as you can buy a selection of plastic gears there. I would also clean the inside of the motors and put some thin oil on the bearings to stop the motor squeal.
could you put a longer or pull up the old gear up so it covers more surface of the wheel underneath ? that might work big time, also motor needs a clean, seems kinda nosy.
the potentiomenter is for position the steering into center /hold the gear in place that direction it was given from the remote , why its stopping? its not the motors fault its only the crack .. and oh please grease the motor axle that painfull scream of the motor Q.Q oh jeez . small hint file the gear tooth near the crack thinner so you balance the gap out that appeared through it
Steering motor needs cleaning/lube. The reason to use worm gear for steering is to prevent the steering gear turning worm gear. So, with/without overrun protection mechanism, the gear will continuously put stress to worm gear in the direction of worm gear axle. that loosens the contact between worm gear and its axle, creates more play in motor axle. The worm gear needs to be placed at the center of the gear in every direction. This case, worm gear is too much pushed in having little contact at the end, causing lock. Open the motor and put some bushings inside, so the axle can be further out, and make sure the all the gears are not slipping. Really want to see this one working. Good luck!
Ahh those polly boxes that disintegrate a little bit more every time you put things away. They make a lovely sound when you rub plastic against them. (cringe)
I do that with all the vintage toys. As long as its hobby grade and you can get parts. I tell people to buy two of something and use one for parts. I have an RC car that also flys. I found it easier to buy a whole other unit than mess with buying parts. I have a friend that sold me his as his kids stripped the gears in the car part of it but it flys fine. I saved it just for the flying aspect of it.
The motor has neither carbon brushes, nor any ventilation holes for gunk to go through. The old 2 left hands method of cleaning and greasing everything doesn't work here. The only thing wrong with this motor are worn out bushings and loose worm gear, that's why it's screeching so much, no grease will regenerate worn out parts.
You should get a cheap rc car an transfer the electrics and running gear to modernise the running gear use a different controller and it would be an awesome toy!
Maybe this is the time and a good excuse to get a 3d printer? *lol* Not knowing how well those 3d printed gears would work, of course, but that would be interesting, i think.
Hi Vince. There are loads of packets of random plastic gears on Amazon or ebay and they are very cheap. Keep up the good videos. You have the patience of a saint.
Hello Vince i think you have the Patients of a saint you are amazing i have watched all your videos and enjoyed all of them.
This video is brilliant. My mate was given one of these for Xmas 1979 aged 9 and we used it a lot. The controller wasnt digital proportional that we take for granted these days and it literally ate batteries at an alarming rate. Intresting at the time you needed a license as it had a radio TX that he had to get from the post office. Great video thanks for sharing.
I had one of these, I got it for Christmas 1979, I had actually wanted the Tamiya Sandscorcher BUT the Tamiya kit with all the radio gear and batteries came in at around £150, The Truckertronic was ~£ 35 from Boots. I just paid the same amount for one on eBay which has the same faults yours has. I look forward to getting it running, If not as standard I will upgrade all the internals to modern control with a proper speed controller. I have to say I was gritting my teeth as you were unboxing and then pulling it apart as I know how to do it thanks to a very inquisitive childhood mind.
OMG This brought back so many memories. I had one of these as a child and I absolutely loved it. Think my cousin eventually was given it when I stopped using it. I remember there was a problem with it, in that the steering didn't work very well. Love the videos. Mick. Northern Ireland
This truck looks like an expensive toy for its time and is still impressive today. I would love to see this thing fully working again.
I have a couple thoughts on how to fix this.
The wear in the plastic can actually be eliminated quite effectively. You can disassemble the gearbox for the steering (i saw that it looked to be just clipped together), then you can fill in the holes with some strong hard epoxy, or some of that plastic weld, and then drill out new holes, that matches the outer diameter of the axle, thereby reducing the play, or even eliminating it, if you can get the tolerances right. Now, the proper solution would be to drill out the worn holes, and then glue in brass bushings, as metal on plastic isn't exactly great, but that would probably be more work than it's worth for a piece like this.
As for the cracked gears, there's a reliable way to fix this as well. You can drill through the gear, all the way through the axles, and then pin it, using some regular wire. That prevents the gear from spinning on the axle. It's a very reliable fix for stuff like this. Just don't drill through the teeth them selves, do the collar, if you have to drill through the teeth on a gear, make sure it's not where it contacts another gear. Also, to strengthen the gear where it is cracked, you can glue on a small piece of plastic on each side of the gear, going over the crack, to reinforce the plastic. I'd recommend using a small vice with some rubber jaws, to close the crack as much as possible, before doing this. And once again, if you drill through the reinforcing pieces, through the gear itself, and then pin it on each side of the crack, it will last forever, whereas glue alone won't be a lasting solution. It will come apart again eventually, if you just glue it.
Pinning is a highly effective way of repairing and strengthening all kinds of things, something you should look into. :)
Also, i saw in another video that you are struggling to find good superglue. I prefer using glue from the brand Loctite. It's much easier to apply than other brands i've tried, it sets much faster (less chance of glue getting on the fingers or other stuff), and it's very strong. You can also use i think it's baking powder, to set superglue pretty much instantly. It's a mess though.
Finally, there's a chance the contacts inside the motor itself are dirty, causing the connection, and thereby the motor to be weak, and unreliable. Tronicsfix had this issue on a couple of the toys he repaired in your latest challenge. Namely the alarm clock, and the same astro pinball machine that you've also looked at. :)
I don't know if you'll even read this, but i hope you do, 'cause i'd really like to see this neat little truck back "on the road"! :)
Super glue has an age limit. people do not know that. After time, the activator evaporates and the glue will not set up. I have run across old super glue that wouldnt even stick my fingers together. If it feels oily its shot. I also think the glue absorbs the oils from the plastic container it comes in. the little dollar store vials that come in foil pouches lasts longer.
saw
i was going to suggest 3d printing new gears and maybe the motor being bad just on its last legs so to say i lookd online briefly for gears i think metal would be great options
@Christian, excellent suggestions to fix the truck, and all are within the youtuber's skill set. I think the motor needs a thorough cleaning and lubrication, similar to what was done on the pinball machine. Metal gears would be a great alternative for the plastic ones. I would love to see the truck fixed. It certainly is a challenge worth watching.
By pinning, do you mean drill holes at either side of the split and tie very fine wire across the split to "pull it together"?
You gave it your best shot Vince. The plastic in those gears gets fragile over time, hence the cracks, and too much play, etc.
Would love to see more clock/watch stuff Vince, love your work mate!
Sure thing, I will definitely attempt more of it :-)
Great vid Vince so envious of the toys you get to play with
Nice attempt Vince, at least this wasn't a bad luck for the competition! :D Always impressed with how you show your failures to go with your victories!
Well, most of Europe, or anywhere thats not on the North/South american continent has the Cab-over-engine build type, not just for length, but also for maneuverability for tight roads and corners. I did see some front-engine models from scania out by the OMV refinery near Vienna, but those are a rare sight. America can afford to have those front engine trucks running on their roads, because they built their roadsystems and cities wider from the start, as they had a lot more free/flat ground to work with. They have some COE models too, but aren't very often used.
yeah azurespeed, company i used to work for had a couple scania bullnoses here in scotland too, ive spent some time in the states too and by far most popular newer ones i saw were usually fleetliner and volvos bullnoses now tbh as volvo started that model in a big way a few years back, cab overs in america are usually more expensive (costler to build for what you get so as you said more route dependant in the choice of vehicle) and as you said more interior space for less etc plenty cab overs still around tho over there and always have been, think less kenworth (smokey and the bandit) and more kenworth ke100 (bj and the bear) :) even my stateside workplace still had 2 old cab over internationals for more local stuff for that very reason your getting at :)
I loved the old beast cabover's from the US, some of them veritable palaces on wheels with the cabin and facilities etc, whilst our old Scammell, Anderson, Foden's and ERF's the driver had to make do with a kip on the seats and finding a early opening transport cafe which had facilities like showers etc for drivers.
@@gimble8638 Years ago working at a scrappy in Erith, Kenworth had their racing truck depot next door to us, them were big big scary lorries that could go up to 70 as quick as a performance car O.o
yeah ian, ud be amazed how quick some of them could be even standard with no trailer :)
After all that years still a great toy. Kids here Would like something like that. I hope you still can get it fixed. Take your time on it.
I think you can fix this one Vince!!! I had the same thoughts another guy had to put glue on the cracked gears and then put them under a little pressure to hold it together until the glue hardens up. You might take the motor apart and clean/lube it and see if it helps. If not, I'm betting you can buy a new motor pretty cheap. TronicsFix cleaned up two motors! Don't let him show you up! :-)
Jim Bussey I think they sound dry to
OMG!! I had this when I was a kid!
If I am honest, it wasn’t great, it was really slow.
When the truck reversed, the bit on the back of the truck that the trailer connected to, that would click up and down and you had to time reversing as to wether you would catch the trailer or not!
The trailer converts to tanker and flat bed, you just lift the cases off to reveal each model.
The steering was proportional so you could fully control the steering.
The light on the top flashed.
It also ate battery like it was going out of fashion!
Ohhh so that is how the fifth wheel trailer thing works, thanks for all the info :-) I may revisit this as reading all the comments has given me some ideas on how to fix it :-)
@@Mymatevince Do iiiiiiitttt! \o/
These were fab!
I love your videos. Keep going
Vince !
worth going over it all again as others have said below, i was shouting at the screen everytime you mentioned the bulb lol, back ends off so wouldnt work anyway vince!!! lol, worth another bash id say and as usual great vid :)
Great truck sounds like the motor requires the commutator cleaning it has some dead spots because when you force the steering you cannot turn the worm gear in reverse it just pulls on the motor commutator and hence the brushes will not be in the correct contact on the commutator. It needs some washers on to remove the movement. The gears can be repaired as said by some other comments. The pot tells the electronics that the steering has full turn to stop the motor moving and damaging the worm gear. Great content keep up the good work.
Awww, don't give up. Pit it away and have a think. The motors deffo need stripping down and servicing. I fthey are too knackered new ones are easy to get. The gears are fixable or even replaceable. the bushes can be lines to take up the wear.
It might take a lot of love and devotion, but I still think this is very repairable.
One of my favourite toys from my childhood, ran out of batteries so quick though. I had the Corgi Honda motorcycle that was cool too!
Hi Vince, I love looking at this era of late 70's vintage toys, always the sort of thing I wanted but at the time was out of our price range.
In 1980 I did have a radio controlled BMW car, this had that system, where it just went straight forward, until you pressed the transmitter button, which made it reverse & turn, Same battery set up too, 9 volt for the radio section & 4 AA for the drive motor, the AAs lasted for about 2 days at the most!
There would be enough room in that battery compartment to fit a rechargeable battery pack.
As other people have said , needs a new motor & gears.
I remember back in the day when you were supposed to have a licence for radio controlled toys, but no one bothered! I think it was because they transmitted on 27 Mhz, which was the same as CB radio, which was popular around that time.
By the way, I've changed my TH-cam channel name, from 'Richy, The Tinkerer & Wanderer', to 'NOW, That's Richy.' I think it's a bit more catchy & easier for you to remember.
Don't forget to Subscribe & ping that bell 🔔, if you haven't done already! 👍
At the very beginning I thought I had the play speed at x1.5! Turns out somebody had some coffee/tea today. lol
Great video!
9v + x4 C cells @ 1.5v. 15v for a small truck? Must have some power hungry motors and servos!
I had this set when i was a kid....GREAT !!!
Nothing wrong with failure. Still more interesting than the PS3 video where you turned it on and it worked. :)
Think I had this one as a kid,fantastic toy,hours of pleasure
Open and clean + grease the motor, they are usually full of gunk after so much years. It should be fine then.
The motor has neither carbon brushes, nor any ventilation holes for gunk to go through. The old 2 left hands method of cleaning and greasing everything doesn't work here. The only thing wrong with this motor are worn out bushings and loose worm gear, that's why it's screeching so much, no grease will regenerate worn out parts.
I watch your uploads like i do Netflix so addicting lol
We here in the states back in the 70s on up to the 90s had length restrictions on our trucks. Hence why cab over engine tractors (coe) was very y common for three decades. During the late 90s the restrictions were lifted now our truck trailer combos usually top out at around 80 feet in length
Hey Vince. I fixed an old car, the motor was worn like yours and it would also move out like that. What I did to make it work was to take a flat piece of metal folded into an L shape. I placed it over the motor shaft like this -L where the - is the motor shaft. In essence it acts like a spring that keeps the shaft from jumping out. It looks like you might have enough room to screw something like that on to the top plastic part.
Great advice, I have revisited this truck and I thought the same thing about forcing the end (opposite end to the worm gear) in to stop it popping out and seizing :-)
I have a wee idea on how to repair this, maybe try and disassemble the motors and clean them and re grease them, i was so excited to see how this was gonna look when finished, i hope you revisit this one.
Came across your channel ,enjoyed it looking forward to more ps don't give up on the truck
A little helpful piece of advice is for the gears they do sell them on ebay. I've always done repairs many different types of robots and sometimes I have to glue some gears but most of times I replace them. Would be cool to do toy repair collab lol
Morning Vince, always enjoy your videos, but think you should definitely revisit this repair as you can source those nylon gears online. I used to mess about with RC models etc and you could definitely buy those gears online, you just need the dimensions, tooth counts etc. The electronics of the truck seem fine which is arguably trickier to fix/diagnose. Likewise regarding the motor I'd start by reconditioning it, just like the Big Bird clock fix TronicsFix did. You can turn this fix around mate!
Regarding those gears:
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F262381490183
Thanks Kevin :-)
This video is interesting!! 👌
Also I'm sure you can find replacement gears out there, or have some 3D printed for you. The worm gear and the next gear are just too far away. Isn't there a way to move the motor a bit, or the worm gear a bit further out on the motor shaft. But you can definitely get a new motor (if you can figure out what that is for a motor) that would have no play.
Hi Vince, you can easy use WD40 to spray the inside of te motor.
than it will be drive better!
I love your video's!
Great vid as usual. Try to take the gear OUT of the shafts and use a bit of glue over the crack. Super glue may not work if made of nylon. also, a trick you can use (I have used it on helping repairing gears on tape decks) is: CUT a circle of thin plastic with the same diameter. For example, from a X-RAY printout (dont know the proper name in english). Then glue the thin plastic "washer" over the gear and thats all. The "washer" will take the stress now as since it goes all around the piece wont crack. Then drop a very small drop on of glue on the shaft to gear union. As per the motor, you can source them, they are pretty common toy type ones. Dont install the shaft until the glue if fully cured.
A fun video! =D You need to fix those splits, but also lubricate with molycote. The splits can be difficult to deal with, but removing them carefully and get epoxy in the gap, and a tiny bit on top and on the bottom overlapping the split. Once hardened carefully try and re-fit to the shaft. The alternative is you could 'manufacture' replacements of those gears using a silicon mold and liquid plastic. It's a lot of work but I think this could be brought back to life! It's perhaps also worth getting some deoxit into the motor - I suspect dirty brushes / commutator.
Thanks Chris, I am just uploading the revisit as I type using all the tips I read in the comments :-) Thanks for the tip on the Deoxit :-)
Why bother with casting when you can buy those gears at the cost of pennies. Buying all the ingredients for casting is just too expensive.
If you can buy an exact replacement - great! But we are talking about where there is no replacement available. Sometimes with a rare piece of kit it is worth taking the time and money to manufacture a replacement part. 3D printing is perhaps another good solution - granted the printer costs a bit...
There is no "if" in this case... Those are standard, off the shelf 0,5 module teeth gears used in the whole toy industry. Often available on ebay in pack of 100+ in all sizes.
Hi Vince, sorry to see that this couldn't be fixed. However I recently purchased a faulty 1982 radio cassette boombox where the nylon gears were all broken on the cassette mechanism. So I went on to eBay and purchased a pack of assorted nylon gears brand new, and hey ho it all worked fine after that. Most people would have just chucked it in the bin, but I persevered and got it going again.
Hi Vince! love your videos. Couldn’t you hear the motor bearing screaming? A bit of grease would help that. Also disassemble the motor and clean the commutator. Also you might be able to shim the motor a bit closer to the gear to prevent it locking up. There are a ton on gears for sale on the net, I think you cold find some pretty cheap. Please do revisit this project it can still have a lot of video fun in it!
Seems like if you were able to take the motor apart for both you might be able to fix the issues but I'm not too sure I usually work through stuff like you when doing repairs don't be afraid to really take it apart
Bad luck it was a great effort and it looks a really cool toy that came out the year I was born.
The steering gear is made of a nylon plastic. The problem with that is that it shrinks as it ages. This causes parts pressed on shafts to split from the pressure. It can't be glued successfully because it is so slippery.
Really determined hobbyists have gone so far as to make replacement parts by filing blank nylon or Delrin. Others have made copies of the needed part out of epoxy compounds like J-B weld.
You might find that all of these trucks have the same issue.
The type of plastic determines what you can use to repair things like that. I generally replace the drive components as well as transmitter and receiver. By doing this it actually improves the value because you are making it hobby grade from toy grade. meaning you can replace faulty parts. Something we all know toy grade cannot be done.
The worm gear was clearly hanging on the cracked portion and this is why it would periodically jam, CA or pinning or wire or staple methods could work good here, then WD40d the potentiometer that tells the control unit where they steerage is at, it sounded confused, they get jumpy/noisy in resistance when old and since this is part of a control loop you can't have it being noisy or it will tell the motor to suddenly reverse direction or speed up suddenly which will wear things out further.
Great item.
Thank you! That truck is so well kept! It is amazing how did you older play with your toys?
Awsome video!
This ties in with the Movie CONVOY, you would need to see if someone could printout new gears as the old ones might be about to fall to bits, there must be someone that sells gears or if it would be possible to get brass gears including the worm gears, Germanium transistors tend to go short circuit after a while because whiskers grow between the electrodes of the transistor so replacing the transistors with BD131 to replace the NPN Germanium transistors and the BD132 transistors for the PNP Germanium transistors.
It does yes, I think it came out a year or 2 later. Thanks for the tips, if you are interested I revisited this truck in a follow up video a couple of days later. I cleaned out the motors and tackled the gearbox again :-)
Part of the reason American trucks have maintained the extended front is because of the size of the country. Many routes may take a day or two and the driver will sleep in the truck. Unfortunately, the sleeping quarters are where many European trucks put the engine.
You win some, you lose some. Still an interesting video as always .
J-B Weld for plastic. It's like an A B epoxy very strong. Also take the motors apart clean the brushes. Last Resort 3D print some gears.
The flat fronted trucks are for a reason in the UK they are for small towns and villages with narrow streets, the flat fronted trucks makes it easy to reverse, in tight places when a sharp lock is need if you had 8 to 10 feet in front of you, you would never get around because your nose sticks out to far. That is fact.
could the worm gear on the motor shaft slide further out a bit, maybe it will mesh with its adjacent gear a bit more?
It may be that the gears with the hairline cracks aren't meshing correctly, or occasionally the teeth will go out of alignment and lock everything up. The torque of the motor will widen the gap between teeth. I'd take the gear off the shaft, then clamp the crack together and plastic weld. Then refit to the shaft and it may work, obviously no guarantees. May be too late for this one but I've seen this sort of thing before.
Shame you couldn't get this one working. I'd say gears are the main issue, have you heard of hobbies, they are online and sell gears plus many other items that may help you in the future. They also sell metal gears and the prices are not to bad either. I really hope you come back and fix this. Great video though
Thanks Darren, I am uploading the revisit right now:-)
La verdad tengo el mismo trailer yo no pude hacerlo trabajar por que venia sin control, y la tracción se destrozo...pero ya esta trabajando y ya tiene dirección proporcional, totalmente un gran proyecto...
We need to start a betting system. Will be fix it, will be not or will be make it worse. 😂
Having had similar when I was a kid, I found the best way to do it was to use a hammer...didn't fix it, but made me feel better. 😜
"He" not "be"... Bloody predictive text crap
Still a great video
ok my two cents: put a wedge at the back of the motor to hold the front against the other gear. and possibly either of the gears' spindles are bent? idk, but thanks for the video!
**Addendum**
The motor works, so it's highly likely it just needs a good cleaning on its bushes and bush contacts.
With the worm cog I feel it needs to be pulled away from the motor so that more of the worm is in contact with the cog its driving, hope my staple stitch "see my post below" works for you as good as it has for me.. One more thing, Could it be the electronics is sensing high torque on the motor and thus to save wear N tear it switches it off?
It might sound like a lot of work, but if you were to machine new gears out of something like delrin, or nylatron, and bought replacement motors you would be good to go. Plastic gears of that era often crack like that, and the grease used on it only made it worse. The cracks changed the spacing of the teeth, gluing would make them solid, but that doesn't address the change in geometry.
see if you can some how move the motor towards the gear to get more contact with the splines as to remove the spinning of the worm gear that may help!
The flat front trucks are called cabovers because the cabin of the truck sits on top of the engine and drive line to shorten the over all length and we have them here in the US as well though not because of any law. Some of the New England towns and especially New York City really need Cab over trucks because they have a small turning radius than conventional trucks that have the conventional engine out front with the long hood or as you call it a bonnet. I used to be a truck driver and it took me to all the continental US states and all over Canada.
The movie Convoy and the song of the same name by C.W. McCall was very popular in the 1970s because I was there and had it on 8 track. Rubber Duck keep that truck rolling...
Hair line cracks can be repaired with a cut down staple and a stinking hot soldering iron with a very fine Tip, Using a minimum of two staple pieces placed over the split, I removed the nylon cog from the axle so that the split can be closed during the heating of the staple to apply what I call a "Staple Stitch" Once the outer stitch is embedded enough on both sides of the split or crack, I then epoxied over the staple, super glue over the staple may also work, Just glueing the split seems to only work for a short while BTW, So thats why I thought of seeing if a staple would work more permanently, The first Toy "Train" I repaired was around 48 years ago, and it got used by my kids and their kids, Might even get use for another generation or two if the teeth dont wear down to much, anyway I digress.
Now with the axle stitch "Inner portion of the cog closest to the axle" - if it's at all possible with the staple stitch try and place the staple so that it is right on the axle, so when the cog is placed back into position the staple takes some of the Torque by actually contacting it ever so slightly making it a better binding fit for the cog, again super glue might help if the extra torque is needed - OK back to the video and Good Luck Vince, oh and as usual I dropped a Like..
Thanks for the tips :-)
Nice to see you got a kudos shoutout from Retro Future today and I agree with him you ain't an amateur any longer hehe Just think in years to come ppl will be watching MMV vids to show their kids what us mere mortals had as toys and games as they watch it on their arm embedded direct to brain Playstation 93 and thinking we were all cavemen ;)
Thanks Ian, I just watched his vid before looking at these comments, it is nice to kick back and watch rather than 'Do' for a change. Hopefully he will get it fixed on the next visit :-) Cheers for the advice on this truck, I am uploading the revisit as I type :-)
@My Mate VINCE I think you should look into converting that AWESOME truck into a modern RC vehicle. Rip out the guts and remake it with small modern RC parts. That would be epic. And I think some enthusiasts would pay for something like that. I don't have a clue to the complexities of doing something like that, however it is just an idea, if you even see it :P
It wouldn't be epic to destroy early proportional controls... It is fixable and worth saving and repairing.
With sillicone molding and epoxy it's possible to make new gears but it takes a lot of time an effort, but you need a good one for making the mold and it's also not cheap. So if you really want it's repairable, but is it worth it?
Why bother casting when you can buy those gears for pennies. Those are standard 0,5 module teeth gears.
I'm cringing from all those comments with bad advices 🤣 This toy is easily fixable.
You can buy new gears for pennies from eBay or RC shops, those are standard 0,5 module teeth gears, used in all toys for a very long time. Cracks in the gears increase the distance between two teeth and make the mechanism jam up. Gluing is not a good idea since it fills the gap but not eliminates it, it's better to just buy new gears, they often come in packs of all sizes, it's just important to buy 0,5 module gears.
The engine has neither carbon brushes, nor any ventilation holes for gunk to go through. The old 2 left hands method of cleaning and greasing everything doesn't work here. The only thing wrong with this motor are worn out bushings and loose worm gear, that's why it's screeching so much, no grease will regenerate worn out bushings. This motor is also a standard size and can be replaced easily. The controls seem wonky and unintuitive because this toy is multiplexing one radio channel for controlling both steering and going, so it's an interesting example and should be saved and repaired, not scrapped for parts or gutted. Also it's an early attempt at proportional steering, so gutting it would be a crime, it's a historical example of toy engineering.
I would love to fix it for you because it's worth saving and a shame to waste.
Hi, I did a revisit on this Truck a couple of days after this video. I won't give away the outcome but you might want to watch it when you have the time. Thanks for the advice :-)
I was yelling "it's the cracks in the gear" because when that crack spreads open then the gear teeth get out of alignment and don't mesh properly. Weld the crack. Speaking of crack, your videos are crack for me apparently. :)
For one, the motor has a dry bearing, get that sorted first, you can hear it screaming. Take it apart (gently) and remove all the old dry grease, clean and re-grease. This will increase the motors power considerably. The gears are a problem, not sure what to do there... You screwed the large white screw head in and out and I believe that is a limit stop.That was probably set in the factory. Having turned it, that is probably set wrong now.
Would not the opposing forces of springs have helped hold the pinion in place? Couple of them little pen springs cut and trimmed to apply just enough force to keep the pinion up against the worm gear? I suspect there may have been "compliance" springing in the original product that prob snapped off or rotted off with age, it doesn't have to be powerful spring but enough to keep it firm in either direction when power applied via worm gear. Gears can easily be found if you hunt around, measure the teeth, the teeth type and the diameter of the teeth ring plus the ID of the shaft and plenty of makers of such things or you could 3d print some yourself from one of the many maker projects online if you had a 3d printer :) If you know a machinist with a small lathe he could knock up some brass ones from a bit of bar stock and it would never fail again hehe
Spotted on Banggood a 75 gear wheel kit for a few pounds and they do 5x of the ubiquitous little motors for a couple quid so plenty to choose from :)
here in the states a truck is limited by the trailer. Max legal length for all 50 states is 52' not counting the cab. but you can pull longer loads, you just need to pay for a permit.
Now I want to watch Over the Top and arm wrestle for victory.
I see 3-D printing in the future 👍
you can still sort this thing out, please don't let us down :D
I wonder if you can buy a random assortment of those gears and replace them. Might be hard to find tho.
I would say the worm gear is too far in. The middle of the worm gear needs to be in contact with the flat gear. As you have it, the very edge of the worm gar is touching the flat gear.
I have one of this Trucks as kid :D So much fun. Sadly i loaded the trailer with all of my other cars and try to pull it and than the connection brokes. I was so sad. Sry for my bad eng :)
eBay is your friend, just search for "assorted plastic gears" and you should be golden. :)
You can clearly see the gears are worn. Don't know if you could find replacements online?
The worm gear should cross the zenith of the other gear. The spiral should be centered to the high spot of the other gear. In other words your worm gear should be extended away from the motor.
Thanks, I wasn't sure of the exact placement, now I know :-) Thanks for passing on the info.
Have a look on Amazon.co.uk for 'motor gears' as you can buy a selection of plastic gears there. I would also clean the inside of the motors and put some thin oil on the bearings to stop the motor squeal.
Couldn’t u notch out where the motor goes and slide it a hair forward so the worm gear connects better to the main gear ?
could you put a longer or pull up the old gear up so it covers more surface of the wheel underneath ? that might work big time, also motor needs a clean, seems kinda nosy.
the potentiomenter is for position the steering into center /hold the gear in place that direction it was given from the remote , why its stopping? its not the motors fault its only the crack .. and oh please grease the motor axle that painfull scream of the motor Q.Q oh jeez . small hint file the gear tooth near the crack thinner so you balance the gap out that appeared through it
Greasing worn out motor bushings won't regenerate them. The motor needs replacing , it's even the standard size so another one is easy to find.
Steering motor needs cleaning/lube. The reason to use worm gear for steering is to prevent the steering gear turning worm gear. So, with/without overrun protection mechanism, the gear will continuously put stress to worm gear in the direction of worm gear axle. that loosens the contact between worm gear and its axle, creates more play in motor axle. The worm gear needs to be placed at the center of the gear in every direction. This case, worm gear is too much pushed in having little contact at the end, causing lock. Open the motor and put some bushings inside, so the axle can be further out, and make sure the all the gears are not slipping. Really want to see this one working. Good luck!
Great advice:-)
damn another one! thanks.. early again
I was born in 1979 4 February the truck is 40 years old and in mint condition for its age unlike me
Is it from the film Convoy 1978?
Another that i had as a kid...
Try buying another one with broken logic board and good gears and put good gears on the one you have now.
Motor bearings sound dry and are probably knackered
no bearings in these motors
Ahh those polly boxes that disintegrate a little bit more every time you put things away. They make a lovely sound when you rub plastic against them. (cringe)
You could always adapt an esc and motor off of another RC like a WL Toys.
I do that with all the vintage toys. As long as its hobby grade and you can get parts. I tell people to buy two of something and use one for parts. I have an RC car that also flys. I found it easier to buy a whole other unit than mess with buying parts. I have a friend that sold me his as his kids stripped the gears in the car part of it but it flys fine. I saved it just for the flying aspect of it.
Wonder if it could be converted to lithium?
The squealing noise the front motor made was due to dry motor shaft bearing surface. A drop of oil on each end of the motor shaft will fix that.
The motor has neither carbon brushes, nor any ventilation holes for gunk to go through. The old 2 left hands method of cleaning and greasing everything doesn't work here. The only thing wrong with this motor are worn out bushings and loose worm gear, that's why it's screeching so much, no grease will regenerate worn out parts.
You should get a cheap rc car an transfer the electrics and running gear to modernise the running gear use a different controller and it would be an awesome toy!
Maybe this is the time and a good excuse to get a 3d printer? *lol* Not knowing how well those 3d printed gears would work, of course, but that would be interesting, i think.
Another one for you vince, fancy having a go at a bigtrak transport trailer, that wont tip? :)
Thought i was on 2x speed during his intro spiel 😂
Hi Vince ... can you please tell me what is the music at 47:50 as i like it a lot like i watching your "try to fix" videos ... best regards