I can't wait to see what the car looks like after it's been restored and painted. Thanks for allowing us to see the project and explaining the how's and why's. Great Video!
I would love to see way more of Dulcich. He's just the right mix of humble and goofy but with great knowledge and experience. I could listen to this stuff all day and I don't even OWN a car.
Cave it and pave it! In the 70s we were actually taught it, and it looked great for a year. But cut it welded and do it right because you're going to want to keep this. You're my favorite guy on the channel. I think it's because you are real. Keep it up
wow, i am very surprised by the amount of hate being put on this video. the crop duster needs work or it with rust out and not be safe to drive. i cant believe there is a bunch of bitching going on about it. and steve is just warning us that when we paint a car we have to be ready for anything along the way.
It's because everyone wants a "patina" they think it's so cool to drive around rust bucket. It doesn't have to be perfect or relatively rust free but it's better than a rolling tetanus hazard.
+CanadaBud23 like a little bit of surface rust is ok, but not rust that is like rotting out the a-pillar or holes in your fenders. like don't get me wrong, a little bit of rust here and there does look cool but there is a point to when there is too much
Rust is going to happen on the car but the most of the people really complaining are driving around shit that would explode if impacted. Because to them lots of rust is "ultra cool". I have rust on my cars and I try to get rid of it but it ain't gonna happen without total strip down plus dipping. Building the car correctly wasn't really the main problem. what they used to paint the car or bath the car in wasn't that great to begin with. So it needed proper care right away to keep decent. A lot of it is due to people leaving cars in fields or near vegetation that cause most of the problems.
Best thing to use on the rust in the engine bay, in my experience, would be Bilt-Hamber Deox gel. It will completely remove the rust in 4-5 applications, leaving you with clean, rust free metal ready for epoxy. And it won't even harm the surrounding paint. I know it sounds too good to be true, but it actually works. I live in Norway, so I've been dealing with alot of rust over the years, and it's the only thing I found so far that truly works. It will not rust again if coated correctly. Only thing that can make it fail, is if it's rusted true, like a pinhole. Then you need to weld...
Big fan and a motor trend on demand subscriber!! The $5 a month is totally worth it. And it's a way to show my support. It's not much, but it's something.
Steve, I am doing a '74 Duster right now and know your pain! 3M Panelbond is an amazing product and I have used it as well. I love how it flows and self-levels. It is like JB weld on steroids! Thumbs up on the fiberglass reinforced filler for small non-structural repairs as well. Good luck with the car. Mine has a 470 RB stroker with a tunnel ram.
Dear David and Steve, I'd be lying if I said that it didn't grate on me a lil bit in having to write this but I hope you'll humor me (as I humor you ;~p) and continue to read to the end. I say what I am about to say as a person who simply does not have the funds to pay for every whim or fancy (MTOD inc) that comes along in my life. I really wish I could and I'm sure I would love all the extra content that there is on offer there. Luckily for me, I have been and done most of the stuff you show in your vids and while I like to watch them and relive my youth , vicariously through you, there is a whole new generation behind us that have not done these things or are just starting on that venture. Remember when you were young? When you weren't sure how to properly deal with a rust hole? When you didn't know why your panel/paint repair was lifting on the edges? Why it only lasted 12 months before it rusted through again? I remember these times and there was no youtube when I/we learned how it was done. I understand that we live in a commercial world and you need to make the most of that for this venture to be worthwhile to all parties involved. I do feel however that you self professed "car guys" could at least teach some young fella how to feather(father) an edge , or how to treat the metal behind a hole, or how to find a high or low spot or something worthwhile in these teaser vids that you do. It could be the difference between some poor kid with a petrolhead dream rising above a lot in life that can ill afford MTOD or not. I implore you to at least make these teaser videos educational in some way. AS "car guys" surely that is the least you can do. cheers.
Victor Bitter, David and Steve probably have no say over anything MTOD. They're stars of the show. MTOD decisions would be the marketing and corporate peeps.
Victor Bitter I was fortunate enough to have a father who did everything himself body,paint,fabrication also engine building. I remember block sanding the fenders on my dad's 1940 1/2 ton Dodge when I was about 6 years old. At 10 I was fixing up bicycles and selling them at 13 it was dirt bikes by 15 Cars and Trucks. My oldest is 15 and although he is very knowledgeable he lacks the hands on experience. Because of the Internet he thinks he already knows how to do everything and won't let me teach him. He's been in the shop with me since he could walk but his mother and I divorced when he was 9 and since hasn't spent the time with me that he used to. My point is that videos are great and all but hands on experience is the key to learning this stuff.
Victor Bitter live and learn i layed and sanded shitloads of bondo and sanded until i figured out that what you can feel is what you can see, i welded all kinds of bird poop until i figured out how to run a nice bead, kids of this generation are blessed and should be grateful that they can watch a video on TH-cam for some how tos while us oldfolk wondered why are chickenwire and "black magic" bondo patches fell off!!!
I'm a huge car guy and I generally love working on them, but body work is such a pain. This is why I like Roadkill. They greatly prioritize function over form
Drip rail. Sometimes it is easier in the long run to take the time and pull the engine and paint everything. I have a rule, if you touch or remove a part on your car, clean it up and paint it before it goes back on. Edit: Forgot to mention that I appreciate your honesty and what you say is so true about working on a car - always takes way more longer then expected.
Dulcich, Try Eastwood - "After Blast" for some of that rust issue. It's a phosphoric acid, but leaves a light zinc coating. I use this stuff on every project, and it works incredibly well. It has performed more than a few miracles for me. Just wipe it off before it dries, or it will stay tacky.
Looking at all that work to make it pretty reminds me why do I love beaters - A dent? Minor rust? Missing part? No worries, just concentrate on essentials :)
Its a nice car & metal work can't be rushed if you want a great result that's going to last so let it take its time as long as its not a 5 year project suddenly that you shun off too the side after 3 more episodes showing this car.
Im facing the same issue, i have a 70 trans am that i love the patina on, however i have A pillar rust and few other places that are going to force me to do repairs that will require and over all paint job to save it.
If you guys are upset about them painting the Crop Duster JUST WAIT! Dave's original plan with the Muscle Truck was to paint it If I'm not mistaken his original plan was to have a restored Fuel Injected Bagged Truck (back before everyone and their brother did It with a Square) not 100% I have that issue somewhere in my house
Good job, Dulcich! I am working on the same car, but with a four speed and big block. That is what hotrodding is all about. The sissies who can't fix some rust and shoot some paint will offer comments. People back east are laughing at anyone who thinks that rust is bad.
I used to have a 440 GTX and that Webber carb always gave me hell. I must have rebuilt it 5 times and tried everything to get it to stop bogging down at take off, the 440 is a monster and Other than that I loved the car. I called it my whiplash car cause every time I punched into it it threw my head back and I couldn't pull my head back until she leveled out lol Loved the ride :) I probably should have tried a 780 carter on the motor but then it wouldn't have been original.
Are you having hot start problems? Here's your two number one causes. Starter. If you're running headers, or exhaust, close to the starter it can heat it up and cause it not to start. If it won't "hot start" at any initial timing, including something as low as 5-10 degrees. Then this is probably your problem. Simple fix is to get a protective wrap and wrap your starter up. Initial Timing. This sort of plays into the first one. Too much initial and when the starter is warm, it won't fire the engine. But as soon as you back initial timing down, then it "hot starts" no problem. What I do is through as much initial at it as I think it needs. Go for a beer run (you'll need some) and if it won't hot start. Back it off 2 degrees until it will. It's a lot of trial and error. Cruise around till it's nice and warm. Shut it off. Try and start it again. I always test my hot start at 10 minutes between running and start and 5 minutes between running and restart. These are "typical" times you'll spend in a store grabbing something quick. If it'll hot start at 10 and 5 minutes. You're good to go.
hot start problem? Get an insulated carb spacer, I had that problem on my nova, worked great. It also adds an open hole to my dual plane intake which lets the dual plane share pulses, double win
Just an FYI for those with similar rust at the top of the A pillar. See how the A pillar is rusty all the way down? Well that will continue all the way down the door hinge area of the cowl to the rocker area. My 71 Dart had a few small holes under the vinyl top which let water in and down the A pillar rotting the rocker and the lower portion of the door hinge area where it meets the rocker. A pillar seemed solid but who knows. Not much you can do with something like this other than cutout the obvious, maybe spray rust encapsulator on the stuff you can't replace and reinforce as best you can. Then patch up the outside so it looks pretty and pass it off to the next guy if you can't live with knowing what's lurking inside there.
underdriven- a.k.a. societal malignancy "patch up the outside so it looks pretty and pass it off to the next guy." Clearly, that is the proper and safer repair too. It would snap like kindling under impact. No reply due.
I understand you have already done a lot of work and you are getting tired of doing to the same tedious thing over and over again, but don't you want to just do the whole engine bay anyway while you're at it? Then you won't have to worry about it later and I think it will be bothering you later in life if you are a perfectionist. Get the even coat done now so you won't have a brighter engine bay than the rest of the car later in life.
It's a shitton of more work to do and you're not gonna see it from the outside. I think it's better to do one thing at a time so you get your car back together, get to drive it a bit and then start planning the next thing you wanna do. Get the money to do the engine and while it's out, do the engine bay paintjob at the same. That's how I'd do but, but then Im the kind of guy who paints his cars with a roller and doesn't waste time with bondo so...
I'll have to side with Finnegan way back on this one, if you were going to go this far you might as well have started with the Orange Duster :D . But still glad to see this one getting some quality work.
This is the kind of project that will drive you crazy. . . Every time you think you're finished, wrong. Where do you draw the line? You don't. By the time you get done playing fuck-around with all the hidden spots that pop up, you realize it really needs more work to disassemble the entire car to get everything taken care of Instead of trying to work around It. You have to love doing it to do it. It's always 3x's the work you expect on a 1/2 way job, and it's 4x's the work on a full out job, but you expect it on the full out job.
Steve! Shave the drip rail. It will look badass.Ive seen a Camaro and a Chevelle with it done and it fixed it.As well has ditch all the chrome around the windows and fill with a clean bead of urethane... !..!,
Yep, but all of them are carb style single plane intakes. Ideal one would be like Pro Flo XT, or stock like in magnum truck intake, but with wider ports and TB on front instead on the top.
Hey fry I watch a lot of your dyno test on Motors and cheap power mods stuff like that and I have a hard one for you. For one I live in California so I have smog standards that I got to deal with. I have an 88 Chevy S10 with a 4.3 L TBI injected V6 can you do an episode on building power that still smog herbal on the 4.3 L TBI injected V6 without getting a bank loan to do it. It's just a question I hope it entertains you
elad sputnik . Thought about both of those but they're not smog legal for California not for my truck and if I was to do the vortec I might as well just do a 350 swap or a LS swap thank you for the input I'm trying to get facts when they do the dyno test that's why I asked fry if they can do a episode on it
Dulcich seems a lot more energetic and talkative when he is on his own . The car on the other hand seems like it wants to die and they refuse to let it.
Yo Dulcich, I will give you a 64 Chrysler hardtop stationwagon with zero Cancer, a 64 Valiant wagon, a 63 Plymouth wagon, and a 76 Plymouth Trailduster 2wd convertible with the rare Pacesetter halfcab, plus a 79 Mercedes 450SL for your Cuda convertible lol
Phil Peterson yeah man, somehow I just had a wagon thing going for the last 2 years. Love them, but that Cuda convertible Dulcich has there at the farm is my end all, be all dream ride.
I get it. Cuda convertibles are the Holy Grail of Mopars. There's a guy I know who has a purple one with a factory Hemi that's never been licensed because he's drag raced it since he bought it new. Must be worth a fortune.
I like doing auto body but, I hate sanding, which is about 50% of doing auto body. A lot of people go the easy route in the engine compartment by hand bombing it black.
Roadkill is still on TH-cam... for free.... without paying money, on the same schedule it always has been. RK Extra has never been on youtube other than the one episode every week or so. Roadkill Garage has also never been on TH-cam except for the pilot episode. In other words the only reason you don't see the show that's always been on youtube is because you haven't been watching it...
With the amount of rust on this car it deserves more than a surface hide treatment, all holes should be repaired with metal welded in not covering with fiberglass and also if there is this much rust under the roof and around the cowl If it were mine I would pull all panels and interior and clean and Ospho treat all interior metal surfaces or at least clean and por 15 the inside of the metal. Why do all the work and pay for all the material to paint especially with the cost of a good paint job being as expensive as they are and you know it will pop through in 6 months? just my opinion. The car is a good starter project, do it right! Reskin the roof and replace the metal on the cowl area that rotted!
I wish I were as upbeat as Dulcich! Always a positive dude.
Sunglasses indoors.
I think he had a lil "upbeat" before filming.
... im no judge, I just own the same sunglasses, they are very dark.
Hate that about him
Prep is the key to a top notch paint job. That is what Steve is telling us. So listen up!
Dulcich knows his stuff and he's easy to listen to!
I can't wait to see what the car looks like after it's been restored and painted. Thanks for allowing us to see the project and explaining the how's and why's. Great Video!
I would love to see way more of Dulcich. He's just the right mix of humble and goofy but with great knowledge and experience. I could listen to this stuff all day and I don't even OWN a car.
Cave it and pave it! In the 70s we were actually taught it, and it looked great for a year. But cut it welded and do it right because you're going to want to keep this. You're my favorite guy on the channel. I think it's because you are real. Keep it up
wow, i am very surprised by the amount of hate being put on this video. the crop duster needs work or it with rust out and not be safe to drive. i cant believe there is a bunch of bitching going on about it. and steve is just warning us that when we paint a car we have to be ready for anything along the way.
It's because everyone wants a "patina" they think it's so cool to drive around rust bucket. It doesn't have to be perfect or relatively rust free but it's better than a rolling tetanus hazard.
Or is it they are to lazy or cheap to build the car correctly? Patina is the real B.S. here.
+CanadaBud23 like a little bit of surface rust is ok, but not rust that is like rotting out the a-pillar or holes in your fenders. like don't get me wrong, a little bit of rust here and there does look cool but there is a point to when there is too much
Rust is going to happen on the car but the most of the people really complaining are driving around shit that would explode if impacted. Because to them lots of rust is "ultra cool". I have rust on my cars and I try to get rid of it but it ain't gonna happen without total strip down plus dipping.
Building the car correctly wasn't really the main problem. what they used to paint the car or bath the car in wasn't that great to begin with. So it needed proper care right away to keep decent. A lot of it is due to people leaving cars in fields or near vegetation that cause most of the problems.
Wayne, how so? I prefer the patina look. I build my car to go fast, not show car.
Dulich is a very bright and patient the perfect guy for a back yard paint job
Best thing to use on the rust in the engine bay, in my experience, would be Bilt-Hamber Deox gel. It will completely remove the rust in 4-5 applications, leaving you with clean, rust free metal ready for epoxy. And it won't even harm the surrounding paint. I know it sounds too good to be true, but it actually works. I live in Norway, so I've been dealing with alot of rust over the years, and it's the only thing I found so far that truly works. It will not rust again if coated correctly. Only thing that can make it fail, is if it's rusted true, like a pinhole. Then you need to weld...
Great stuff.. can also get the spray but the gel is best.
If you guys don't get it to the track soon were going to rename it the shop duster! :)
.
Dulcich is my favorite.
Thank you so much for the heads up. I'm about to tackle my truck then car as I gather all the materials. Oh and great job so far on the work 👍
Nice to see you guys being proactive about the rust situation on the crop duster, I love that car it would be a shame if it just rusted to nothing.
Big fan and a motor trend on demand subscriber!! The $5 a month is totally worth it. And it's a way to show my support. It's not much, but it's something.
Steve, I am doing a '74 Duster right now and know your pain! 3M Panelbond is an amazing product and I have used it as well. I love how it flows and self-levels. It is like JB weld on steroids! Thumbs up on the fiberglass reinforced filler for small non-structural repairs as well. Good luck with the car. Mine has a 470 RB stroker with a tunnel ram.
Steve Dulcich is like you best uncle ever. Awesome guy.
I agree! I won't do anyone else's body work without their help because I know how much people can underestimate the amount of time ahead of us...
Love it. I didn't know they were painting the crop duster cuz they have that red/orange one as well. One of my favorite body styles.
good job Dulcich! I bet that paintjob will turn out awesome!
I like how they're putting much more effort on Roadkill now👍💪
Dulcich getting some one on one time with the camera, way to step up to the plate.
The got at the beginning had a twin here in Minnesota lol
. Looks just like my uncle. Great video like always.
Dear David and Steve,
I'd be lying if I said that it didn't grate on me a lil bit in having to write this but I hope you'll humor me (as I humor you ;~p) and continue to read to the end.
I say what I am about to say as a person who simply does not have the funds to pay for every whim or fancy (MTOD inc) that comes along in my life.
I really wish I could and I'm sure I would love all the extra content that there is on offer there.
Luckily for me, I have been and done most of the stuff you show in your vids and while I like to watch them and relive my youth , vicariously through you, there is a whole new generation behind us that have not done these things or are just starting on that venture.
Remember when you were young? When you weren't sure how to properly deal with a rust hole? When you didn't know why your panel/paint repair was lifting on the edges? Why it only lasted 12 months before it rusted through again?
I remember these times and there was no youtube when I/we learned how it was done.
I understand that we live in a commercial world and you need to make the most of that for this venture to be worthwhile to all parties involved. I do feel however that you self professed "car guys" could at least teach some young fella how to feather(father) an edge , or how to treat the metal behind a hole, or how to find a high or low spot or something worthwhile in these teaser vids that you do. It could be the difference between some poor kid with a petrolhead dream rising above a lot in life that can ill afford MTOD or not. I implore you to at least make these teaser videos educational in some way. AS "car guys" surely that is the least you can do. cheers.
Victor Bitter, David and Steve probably have no say over anything MTOD. They're stars of the show. MTOD decisions would be the marketing and corporate peeps.
Dude. No one cares
Victor Bitter I was fortunate enough to have a father who did everything himself body,paint,fabrication also engine building. I remember block sanding the fenders on my dad's 1940 1/2 ton Dodge when I was about 6 years old. At 10 I was fixing up bicycles and selling them at 13 it was dirt bikes by 15 Cars and Trucks. My oldest is 15 and although he is very knowledgeable he lacks the hands on experience. Because of the Internet he thinks he already knows how to do everything and won't let me teach him. He's been in the shop with me since he could walk but his mother and I divorced when he was 9 and since hasn't spent the time with me that he used to. My point is that videos are great and all but hands on experience is the key to learning this stuff.
Victor Bitter live and learn i layed and sanded shitloads of bondo and sanded until i figured out that what you can feel is what you can see, i welded all kinds of bird poop until i figured out how to run a nice bead, kids of this generation are blessed and should be grateful that they can watch a video on TH-cam for some how tos while us oldfolk wondered why are chickenwire and "black magic" bondo patches fell off!!!
It's five dollars a month. Everyone can afford that.
I'm a huge car guy and I generally love working on them, but body work is such a pain. This is why I like Roadkill. They greatly prioritize function over form
Dulcich is awesome. Keep'em coming!
That was one whole take, good job!
Looking Good Steve.
Finally truth in the auto body world..... thanks Steve.
Drip rail. Sometimes it is easier in the long run to take the time and pull the engine and paint everything. I have a rule, if you touch or remove a part on your car, clean it up and paint it before it goes back on.
Edit: Forgot to mention that I appreciate your honesty and what you say is so true about working on a car - always takes way more longer then expected.
Dulcich, Try Eastwood - "After Blast" for some of that rust issue. It's a phosphoric acid, but leaves a light zinc coating. I use this stuff on every project, and it works incredibly well. It has performed more than a few miracles for me. Just wipe it off before it dries, or it will stay tacky.
Looking at all that work to make it pretty reminds me why do I love beaters - A dent? Minor rust? Missing part? No worries, just concentrate on essentials :)
Camo cargo shorts, him and Dave are blending to become one.
Can't upvote this video enough.
Its a nice car & metal work can't be rushed if you want a great result that's going to last so let it take its time as long as its not a 5 year project suddenly that you shun off too the side after 3 more episodes showing this car.
Keep givin' her love brother!
Ohhh I just went thru this agony, what can I say, be strong my friend :D
What about the dart!
Don't hit the Dart!
all these should be on youtube....
Great video. If you can go over common areas of rust repair on 70's Dodge trucks(fenders and doors), super appreciate it.
1:46 Oh good, Dulcich took his sunglasses off, time to turn on my even brighter lights and blind him
Im facing the same issue, i have a 70 trans am that i love the patina on, however i have A pillar rust and few other places that are going to force me to do repairs that will require and over all paint job to save it.
And this is why I dont mess with cars any more. To much of a damned perfectionist.
I love Dulcich he is such a cool guy
Which episode did Dolcich touch base on head porting and made like 90hp on his port job?
If you guys are upset about them painting the Crop Duster JUST WAIT! Dave's original plan with the Muscle Truck was to paint it
If I'm not mistaken his original plan was to have a restored Fuel Injected Bagged Truck (back before everyone and their brother did It with a Square) not 100% I have that issue somewhere in my house
Good job, Dulcich! I am working on the same car, but with a four speed and big block. That is what hotrodding is all about. The sissies who can't fix some rust and shoot some paint will offer comments. People back east are laughing at anyone who thinks that rust is bad.
How many stops over exposed? Turn the ISO down..
I have a duster with a 440 and I'm kind of wondering if you guys have had any problems with starting when hot on the crop duster
I've seen that before on a Corvette. It was a poor ground. It started just fine cold. But it acted like a week battery when it was hot.
I used to have a 440 GTX and that Webber carb always gave me hell. I must have rebuilt it 5 times and tried everything to get it to stop bogging down at take off, the 440 is a monster and Other than that I loved the car. I called it my whiplash car cause every time I punched into it it threw my head back and I couldn't pull my head back until she leveled out lol Loved the ride :) I probably should have tried a 780 carter on the motor but then it wouldn't have been original.
Are you having hot start problems? Here's your two number one causes.
Starter. If you're running headers, or exhaust, close to the starter it can heat it up and cause it not to start. If it won't "hot start" at any initial timing, including something as low as 5-10 degrees. Then this is probably your problem. Simple fix is to get a protective wrap and wrap your starter up.
Initial Timing. This sort of plays into the first one. Too much initial and when the starter is warm, it won't fire the engine. But as soon as you back initial timing down, then it "hot starts" no problem. What I do is through as much initial at it as I think it needs. Go for a beer run (you'll need some) and if it won't hot start. Back it off 2 degrees until it will. It's a lot of trial and error. Cruise around till it's nice and warm. Shut it off. Try and start it again. I always test my hot start at 10 minutes between running and start and 5 minutes between running and restart. These are "typical" times you'll spend in a store grabbing something quick. If it'll hot start at 10 and 5 minutes. You're good to go.
hot start problem? Get an insulated carb spacer, I had that problem on my nova, worked great. It also adds an open hole to my dual plane intake which lets the dual plane share pulses, double win
Just an FYI for those with similar rust at the top of the A pillar. See how the A pillar is rusty all the way down? Well that will continue all the way down the door hinge area of the cowl to the rocker area. My 71 Dart had a few small holes under the vinyl top which let water in and down the A pillar rotting the rocker and the lower portion of the door hinge area where it meets the rocker. A pillar seemed solid but who knows. Not much you can do with something like this other than cutout the obvious, maybe spray rust encapsulator on the stuff you can't replace and reinforce as best you can. Then patch up the outside so it looks pretty and pass it off to the next guy if you can't live with knowing what's lurking inside there.
underdriven- a.k.a. societal malignancy "patch up the outside so it looks pretty and pass it off to the next guy." Clearly, that is the proper and safer repair too. It would snap like kindling under impact. No reply due.
we'll never see this car again. RIP Crop Duster.
Scott Boyer look at davids instagram
Nice work
I understand you have already done a lot of work and you are getting tired of doing to the same tedious thing over and over again, but don't you want to just do the whole engine bay anyway while you're at it? Then you won't have to worry about it later and I think it will be bothering you later in life if you are a perfectionist. Get the even coat done now so you won't have a brighter engine bay than the rest of the car later in life.
It's a shitton of more work to do and you're not gonna see it from the outside. I think it's better to do one thing at a time so you get your car back together, get to drive it a bit and then start planning the next thing you wanna do. Get the money to do the engine and while it's out, do the engine bay paintjob at the same. That's how I'd do but, but then Im the kind of guy who paints his cars with a roller and doesn't waste time with bondo so...
I'll have to side with Finnegan way back on this one, if you were going to go this far you might as well have started with the Orange Duster :D . But still glad to see this one getting some quality work.
A ROADKILL car with RUST!? Why I never would've thought in a million years!
At this point you may as well pull the engine and do it right
I agreee with that...why go through so much and not get all of it
I fucking love Dulcich. Please never make him pay to view
You should come to Woodward this year, we miss you
So this has been over a year and still no new updates or episodes with this car. And this is my favorite one.
REEEEEEEEE MOTORTREND ON DEMAND REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
How DARE you!!
I love rgis show!
Go Steve!!
you take out engines like twice a week, take out the engine and paint the holl car.
holl?
Paul Copeland Lol
If it was only a matter of pulling the engine..... The engine could be left in. It's everything else in the engine bay that makes it a bear to paint.
I love it
This is the kind of project that will drive you crazy. . . Every time you think you're finished, wrong.
Where do you draw the line?
You don't. By the time you get done playing fuck-around with all the hidden spots that pop up, you realize it really needs more work to disassemble the entire car to get everything taken care of Instead of trying to work around It.
You have to love doing it to do it. It's always 3x's the work you expect on a 1/2 way job, and it's 4x's the work on a full out job, but you expect it on the full out job.
Steve needs his own show(beside RKG)
Roadkill Extra!!!!!!
this guy has so much knowledge motor trend has yet to tap into/
Steve! Shave the drip rail.
It will look badass.Ive seen a Camaro and a Chevelle with it done and it fixed it.As well has ditch all the chrome around the windows and fill with a clean bead of urethane... !..!,
Painting a room is a mission, I can only imagine what a ballache it is to paint a car...
i find it funny that when he took his sun shades off, the camera man switched his lens filter
Steve, you need a buddy who does DUSTLESS BLASTING..... Me too!!!!
I'm curious if it's possible to fit Holley PN: 300-231 Plenum Base to Weiand PN: 1995 small block Mopar intake. I want to make EFI SBM.
you know they make efi sbm intakes right? why would you put an ls intake on a sbm intake? the intake spacing might be off as well.
Yep, but all of them are carb style single plane intakes. Ideal one would be like Pro Flo XT, or stock like in magnum truck intake, but with wider ports and TB on front instead on the top.
Pietrek L then get the edlebrock super victor single plane efi intake, and get an edlebrock 90° throttle body adapter.
Pietrek L ohh, you wanted a dual plane. I guess you could buy the fuel injector bungs and weld them to a stock manifold?
Pietrek L what about the hughes edlebrock rpm airgap efi kit they sell? Its...not cheap.
noticing that dulchick has ponytail like me
he has the same problem i do
the cat ear whiskers next to the ears XD
Ditto, boss. Haven't cut mine in 5 years now.
I like Dulcich, he's like one of your dads friends or something
I'd cut out every major structure and repatch with metal. Yes it is a Long process actually very long process but more rewarding in the end.
Luke Jernigan That is what is being done.
Hey fry I watch a lot of your dyno test on Motors and cheap power mods stuff like that and I have a hard one for you. For one I live in California so I have smog standards that I got to deal with. I have an 88 Chevy S10 with a 4.3 L TBI injected V6 can you do an episode on building power that still smog herbal on the 4.3 L TBI injected V6 without getting a bank loan to do it. It's just a question I hope it entertains you
Vortec and Marine are the words you need to know. And maybe Google.
elad sputnik . Thought about both of those but they're not smog legal for California not for my truck and if I was to do the vortec I might as well just do a 350 swap or a LS swap thank you for the input I'm trying to get facts when they do the dyno test that's why I asked fry if they can do a episode on it
Bro we’re is this car
Instead of lead I would use Bronze, just as flexible but also a lot stronger, and if you ever leave it in a ditch it wont kill people as much.
Ayyye more videos from Ferrarisponsored-trend
The engine compartment could be taken care of with a montipower dieblaster.
Dulcich seems a lot more energetic and talkative when he is on his own .
The car on the other hand seems like it wants to die and they refuse to let it.
I see one of these and I'm like Oooooo! lol
And over here, we're going to put a car into this hole where a car used to be.
And I have titles for all of them, Dulcich
Yo Dulcich, I will give you a 64 Chrysler hardtop stationwagon with zero Cancer, a 64 Valiant wagon, a 63 Plymouth wagon, and a 76 Plymouth Trailduster 2wd convertible with the rare Pacesetter halfcab, plus a 79 Mercedes 450SL for your Cuda convertible lol
Those old wagons are so unique and cool. The 64 Valiant wagon would make a great driver/street rod.
Phil Peterson yeah man, somehow I just had a wagon thing going for the last 2 years. Love them, but that Cuda convertible Dulcich has there at the farm is my end all, be all dream ride.
I get it. Cuda convertibles are the Holy Grail of Mopars. There's a guy I know who has a purple one with a factory Hemi that's never been licensed because he's drag raced it since he bought it new. Must be worth a fortune.
Phil Peterson Wow. Yeah, my friend has a triple black 340 4 speed convertible 71 and a red 383 70.
the mini truck needs a hell-cat motor that would be unbelievable.
you guys need to do this to the Rotsun before it falls apart.
LUNITIC WILL for sure
Why paint it they will probly mess it up anyway...?
Seems like one of those 3M stripping wheels would work well for that.
Steve, don't you want to work on my '70 Nova next??? LOL
Crop Ruster...
I like doing auto body but, I hate sanding, which is about 50% of doing auto body. A lot of people go the easy route in the engine compartment by hand bombing it black.
I miss seeing this show on youtube.... for free.... without paying money.
Roadkill is still on TH-cam... for free.... without paying money, on the same schedule it always has been. RK Extra has never been on youtube other than the one episode every week or so. Roadkill Garage has also never been on TH-cam except for the pilot episode. In other words the only reason you don't see the show that's always been on youtube is because you haven't been watching it...
Daniel Briese It's $5. Pay it or quit bitching
Make it dark blue metallic!
More roadkill episde please
So unroadkill, but I dig it!
This is not Roadkill, there is a semblance of care being taken
anyone know the name of the rust treatment @ 4:07
Dulcich is the man! lol
With the amount of rust on this car it deserves more than a surface hide treatment, all holes should be repaired with metal welded in not covering with fiberglass and also if there is this much rust under the roof and around the cowl If it were mine I would pull all panels and interior and clean and Ospho treat all interior metal surfaces or at least clean and por 15 the inside of the metal. Why do all the work and pay for all the material to paint especially with the cost of a good paint job being as expensive as they are and you know it will pop through in 6 months? just my opinion. The car is a good starter project, do it right! Reskin the roof and replace the metal on the cowl area that rotted!