How to Choose Regear Ratio for your Off-Road Build on 35” Tires Toyota 4Runner / Tacoma / GX470/460
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ย. 2022
- In this video, I show you, in detail, why I chose to re-gear my #lexus #gx470 to a 4.88 final drive gear ratio.
Channel Instagram: / lexus_offroad_adventures
#Lexus #gx470 #overlanding #offroad #lexusgx470 #gxor #gxorsocal #flexus #lexusoffroad #lx470 #lexuslx470 #lexuslx #lexusoffroadadventures #overlanding #overland #overlanding4x4 #overlandlife #overlander #toyota #toyotatacoma #toyota4runner #toyota4x4
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A lot of people ask why I kept the stock 8.0" rear differential instead of getting an 8.2" or 9.5 Diamond axle, etc. so I'll answer that here: I'm skeptical that the only reason the 8.0 breaks is that it is insufficient for the platform with upsized tires. Lots of things break diffs (mostly driving) but with the GX470 platform specifically, its excessive backlash from high mileage. Over time, your differential will slowly work its way out of carrier bearing preload and pinion bearing preload spec. This allows for excessive backlash, which, if there is a lot of tires in the air + lots of throttle + suddenly getting traction as the tire hits the ground = carnage. Some say that just getting a pinion/carrier bearing preload refresh (putting the diff back in spec) can increase the strength of a stock 8.0 with over 100k miles by 50 some-odd percent. I'm not saying that the 8.0 is not a weakness, because it definitely is, but I have given it every possible advantage with my build:
1. Freshly built unit by the qualified professionals at Sibi Built (all preloads back in spec)
2. Solid pinion spacer to ensure it doesn't work it's way out of spec over time like the stock crush sleeve
3. Short crawl gear ratio to give me maximum control as a driver over wheel speed
4. Locking differentials front and rear (will talk more about this next video) which ensure I don't need to give her the beans on the throttle in order to achieve the necessary traction
5. ARB differential, which has 4 points of contact on the side gears due to the extra set of (forged steel) spider gears vs. stock having only 2 points of contact.
Again, its definitely more advantageous to have a larger diameter ring gear as it gives you a leverage advantage and usually more contact surface. However, I couldn't resist the idea that I could get all the performance of having a re-gear with twin lockers using the stock equipment instead of the additional cost of sourcing an 8.2 which may provide marginal benefit in breakage resistance or going all out with a diamond axle or something. I think that with rational driving using the lockers at the right time, using the throttle in a conservative manner, and all the measures for strengthening the diff that I mentioned before, I'll be fine. Some people may say "you don't want to be stuck not being able to gun it if you want" but who's to say that won't break the bigger diffs as well? You hit the throttle too hard on an IFS vehicle, something will break somewhere anyway. It's just not my style to drive that way regardless. I am definitely putting my money where my mouth is with this experiment so, whether you think I'm right or wrong, follow the channel to find out what happens lol
Much love,
Daniel
Fire dude🔥🔥 what about your average joe that doesn't rock crawl much. You think the 8" is just fine?
Thx
@@CristianCruz-jf4iw hard to say because a lot depends on driving style.
Nice rig man! So im actually running 35s on my gx too and i want to do a similar set up. How much does this run? Also where did you get this done?
Wait i just saw where you got it done lol
@@crisgarcia6564 probably over 5k. Try to get in on a group buy though. My Tacoma buddy sent me a group buy they were doing on the taco forum and I got in on it after emailing them
Awesome, thorough video as always!
Great resource for all GX owners!
Thanks!
Right back at ya 🙏
Best money I've spent on my 4Runner
Good video ! Ty. I’m about to call them and get a price on 4.88s for my 5th gen ….
Any updates on the new 488s ? Anxious to see how they perform before I pull the trigger. Thanks for the great video.
Love them on 35s. Can’t imagine going any longer with the gearing with the weight I’m running. 4.56 might be ok and bring the revs down a bit on the highway but love how I’m able to get off the line with the 4.88s and it makes the rig feel similar to my wife’s stock GX. Plus there’s future room to grow in tire size if I want. I should make an update video
Can't believe your ARB skid plate is still strong. I bent it really hard
I have full steel RCI skids now
Great details and thanks for sharing. Very informative. I don’t plan on going beyond 295s on my 5th Gen. 4runner but do want Elockers, do you think a regear is needed? I figure if I’m getting front e locker, I might as well regear at the same time but not sure of which ratio yet for daily driving and weekend wheeling.
295 is the width of the tire in mm, so I can’t really tell what would be best. Use all 3 numbers (275/75/17 for example) in this calculator to figure out the diameter tiresize.com/calculator/
Then, use the percentage increase calculator I showed in this video www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/algebra/percentage-increase-calculator.php to determine the percentage increase in tire diameter. If it’s under 10% larger than stock, then a regear is not 100% necessary imo, but it may still be miserable to drive depending on the extra weight on the rig. But to me, since you want to add lockers, it says that you plan on doing hard trails, and for that you need a short crawl ratio. Especially with the lower torque of the v6 at low RPM, a 4.10 or 4.56 would probably help a lot. 4.10 might be ideal whereas 4.56 would give you headroom to run larger tires in the future, but again, would need the tire diameter and other gear ratios in the gearing calculator I linked in the video to figure that out.
E-lockers are great! If you’re doing front and rear, a regear is a no-brainer imo
Thank you for sharing the link and the feedback!
I'm debating between 4.88 & 5.29 . I'm about to be running rclt hd long travel on 37s with a dana 60
I think you would be happy on 4.88s, but it depends on what the vehicle is used for primarily. If you do a lot of highway driving and you like to go 80, 4.88 might be better. If you’re only concerned with off-road performance, 5.29 might give you that crawling edge, but keep in mind: the gear teeth in your stock front diff might be vulnerable because as you get shorter with your gearing, the teeth get a bit smaller. It’s a fine balance. Here is a really good article talking about what to watch out for: www.randysworldwide.com/blogs/size-matters
You wouldn’t happen to have the part numbers for the ARB front and rear air lockers would. I’m having trouble finding finding them. i’ve already had two suppliers tell me they don’t make them for a GX 470. obviously this is wrong. Thanks for your help.
I believe they are just the same ones as the early FJ before they put the 8.2” rear end in 2010. So 07-09 FJ 8.0” front and rear. Check out this supplier: www.polyperformance.com/arb-lockers-for-toyota-4runner
Scroll down to the table to see the correct part number for the GX470. Looks like ARB-RD121 (front) and ARB-132 (rear). I would call these guys to confirm. They will likely have a different answer than the other guys you talked to since it’s listed on their website.
now you are ready to party
Yeeeeeew 🔥🤘🤘
Did you have the speedometer recalibrated? Is that even an option for the GX? I haven't been able to find any tuning options for the GX.
No, I don’t have it and I have yet to see anyone else recalibrate the speedo. If you have an aftermarket head unit, you can download the torque pro app along with a Bluetooth OBD2 reader and use the speed gauge with a a custom correction as your Speedo.
Great! How much did it cost you if you dont mind me asking
It depends. Probably in the neighborhood of 4500-5k. Try to get in on a group buy if you can to save a few hundred
Cost? I know your visit to the shop included CVs etc, but a rough order of magnitude is all I’m missing from this video. Thanks!
Neighborhood of 5k + or -
@Souk he also got front and rear lockers
@Souk Yeah the parts and labor starts to add up when you put lockers into the equation. I saved a good amount of money by going in with a Tacoma group buy. The guys at Sibi Built were nice enough to let me join. The 5k number is full retail
Notice any difference in mpg? Just curious - particularly at highway/interstate speeds. Appreciate the video, sir!
Since I have yet to really take it on a long trip and I live in southern CA (traffic all the time), I don't yet have an accurate assessment of gas mileage. Its way nicer to drive so I may be gunning the throttle a bit more than I was on stock gears but MPG looks about the same around town. (on the display 11-12.5, then + 13.4% to account for increased tire size so about 12.5- 14.2 real MPG). Highway, I'm expecting to be close to 16mpg on the display (~18.2MPG real) if I keep it around 60-65 without any hills. We'll see.
@@lexus_offroad_adventures My 470 is verrry similar - 35s, tent, etc… so I was curious if the higher rpm’s would affect mpg negatively, or if the engine having an easier time with the gearing would improve it. I’d love to hear an update when you gather more data (as you seem inclined to do haha). Rock on!
Do I need re-gear if I got 33’s on my 2021 T4R TRD ORP? Thanks
That is probably not 100% necessary unless you’re carrying a ton of weight and/or hate the way it drives.
Liked and subscribed. My 2023 4Runner has 33.9 inch KM3's, lightweight steel bumpers, full set of steel skid plates, and hitch spare tire carrier. Should I go 4.56 or 4.88? Thank you! 🙏
Thanks so much!
I hate to say it, but it really depends on what you use the rig for. Is your priority eating highway miles and doing some higher speed dirt road/overlanding trails? In that case, maybe a 4:56 would work better.
Do you plan to make it more of a “rocklander” where you’ll be tackling black diamond trails regularly? Maybe you want to increase the tire diameter at some point in the future? A 4:88 might be better in that case.
It all comes down to the use case. It’s an important decision that you want to get right, so take your time in considering these priorities.
My personal choice came down to this: if I gear too long (4:56), I will have to decrease tire size to get the right balance of gearing. If I gear too short (4:88), I will have to increase tire size to get the right balance. Since I lean more “rocklander”, I would much rather increase than decrease tire diameter, if I had to in order to bring gearing into the right window, so I chose the shorter (4:88) gears. This happened to be the right choice for my setup, because with my rig’s weight, tire diameter, and wind resistance,
The shorter gears help keep it in overdrive and ironically helps with fuel consumption (as long as my speed doesn’t go beyond 70-75 ish). It also helps keep things controlled when in Low range while crawling.
@@lexus_offroad_adventures Thanks. I think I'm going to go with 4.88. If I feel that I'm over geared, I'm going to throw 35s to fix it 😁
@@lexus_offroad_adventuresWill 4.88 affect my gas mileage on the highway?
@@dawood2u it could even help mileage depending on the speeds you’re going. The more you keep the engine in the operating window designed by the manufacturer, the better the mileage/performance, in general. Going a little shorter on the gearing can help compensate for accessory weight and wind resistance though.
@@lexus_offroad_adventures Awesome. I am excited 🤩
What Apple screen is this ? Can u provide link thanks
amzn.to/3QIvKdt
Would you have to regear the gx470 if you go with 33s?
Depends on your priorities but I eventually would, especially if I added any serious weight. Would definitely do carrier/pinion bearing preload refresh on the rear end at minimum
When you regear, your car drives on high rpm, does it get harder to get a high speed? Are you still able to drive 85+ mph?
Yes, the video explains the RPM at various speeds. Visit the gear calculator I linked to see exactly what RPM your rig would be at for 85mph. For the GX on 4.88s with 35” tires it will be close to 3k RPM
Was the work perform by street image?
Sibi Built
Question, if you buy a truck with 35s from a dealership. How do you know the previous owner regeared the car to run 35s?
Use the grim jeeper calculator I put in the description, put in the stock gear ratios for transmission and diffs, stock tire diameter, and figure out how many RPMs your engine would be running at in overdrive (top) gear, at a given speed (say, 60mph).
Then, do the same calculation but increase tire diameter to the 35” tires.
Determine which calculation result most closely resembles your on-road experience.
Sorry here is the calculator: www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
@@lexus_offroad_adventures thank you!
What shop did you get them done at?
Sibi Built
What was the cost for the re gear?
Just over 5k total
What year is your gx?
2004
Let me apologize before I even ask because I already know the answer, but please shoot me straight. I also have a GX470 and I want to upgrade to 285/75/17 tires which come to 33.8in diameter. How necessary is a regear for these tires? Followup, if I were to step down to just a 285/70/17, how necessary is a regear for those at 32.7in diameter? Pls link your Venmo so I can compensate for personal advice
The 33.8" diameter tire will definitely be a drag on efficiency and drivability. In my experience with 33s, which were 255/80/17 (I think my Load range E Falkens were 33.1" diameter), drivability was just as bad with those as with my 35s. Ok maybe not AS bad, but close, mostly because the way the transmission is programmed. It gear hunted like crazy. A lot of the need for regear will also depend on the extra weight. If you're running a relatively lightweight rig, I'd say you can easily run the 285/70s without a regear. Not to mention the reduced trimming of the fenderwells you'll need to do. If you're not sure how far you want to go with a build on the scale of light overland rig to dedicated rock-crawler, I'd run the smaller tires for the time being until you fully plan out your build end-game.
Hah, no worries on the Venmo, I love helping people out with their builds. If you want, I believe TH-cam has a SuperThanks feature for subscribers to directly contribute to the channel. Revenue from the channel gets reinvested into content!
@@lexus_offroad_adventures You definitely talked some sense into me. Opting for the 285/70s saves me from both the regear and body mount chop, not expenses I want to incur at the moment.
With that being said, I found some 285/70/17 BFG KO2s locally , 900 for a set. Great deal, right? The catch is that they are load range C... After some research, it seems load range C might be adequate but it feels like a durability and safety downgrade from the load range E tires I currently have. Do you have any thoughts on this situation? Regarding your previous response, I fall more towards the light overland build category but still wheel moderately hard off-road in the desert southwest. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
@@krunckap3795 Load range c tires will likely drive significantly better because of their reduced weight. Any tire is prone to puncture, so you should be prepared with a plug/patch kit and a spare regardless. But as long as your rig is well within the limits of the load range C rating, you should be good to run them. Most GXs without heavy armor, winches, tents and other heavy equipment should run load range C in my opinion. Any less runs unnecessary risk of puncture, any more, unnecessary fuel consumption and poor drivability. On C vs E, you’ll notice that when you air down when off road, the ride will be more compliant as well since the sidewalls have more ‘give’ than the super stiff E’s
*** PLEASE HELP***
-2016 4runner SR5 5th gen. 4.0L/Cyl.
*it’s heavy with lots of mods*
I need to re-gear for 35s. Do I buy 4.88 or 4.56?
What’s the difference?
Couple things:
What are your priorities? Long distance overlanding? Lot of highway miles in top gear? Or low crawl speeds for severe off roading?
you’re working with only 278 lb-ft of torque with the V6 versus the GX470’s 320 lb-ft. With 4.88s I feel like it’s the perfect gearing for me but even then, the truck is slow. I couldn’t imagine going with longer gearing than 4.88. But I don’t drive that much, so your priorities may be different if it’s a daily. I suggest talking to other 4Runner owners with similar rigs to get a better idea of how it drives with your preferences in mind.
As for what the difference is, the video goes much more in-depth than I can in a text reply. If you don’t understand a part of the video, let me know and I can try to clarify.
Mostly highway/city driving
45-65mph.
Phoenix Arizona
@@SageHeller 4.56 could work but ask 4Runner people first
The Pros and Cons you had should have just been cost vs fun/cool
I’ll do a video on that + more in the future.
now that you had some time with the new gears, would you say if running 34's 285/75r17, 4.56 would be ideal over 4.88?
Honestly with the weight I’m at there are times where I wish they made 4.95s or something. But on 34s it would be a toss up for me between 456 and 488. Depends on how heavy the rig is and driving preferences, etc.
What was that $5000 in upgrades?
Yep about 5k with labor or more
HOW does changing the gear effect street use with the big tires??? (speedometer need calibrating?) and gas??
It puts the gearing back closer to its factory-designed range. Drives more like a stock vehicle: When you upgrade to larger tires, it completely messes up the gear ratios, so regearing puts it back to, or shorter than factory spec, which I did to account for the excess weight I have on the vehicle.
Unfortunately, it’s kinda difficult to put the speedo back to actual speed on the GX470 so most just let the speedo be off by 5 or so mph.
@@lexus_offroad_adventures THANKS- that's kinda what I figured..
Oh HECK no-- go ELECTRIC lockers-- the air will FAIL in short term.. the electric are from FJ cruiser- and it's a direct bolt- in.... MUCH better- stronger and will NOT fail..
I don’t know how to put this… I respectfully disagree. Lol
1) both are a direct bolt-in
2) ARB has been making these for 40 years. What makes you think e-lockers are “MUCH better”?
3) they are definitely not stronger. In fact, ARB uses 4 spider gears, with 4 points of contact and only uses high quality forged steel. Same as every e-locker I’ve seen.
4) I prefer ARB air lockers because of the near instantaneous engagement and their integration within my onboard air system, which is already installed.
5) air lockers are $1k and e lockers are closer to $1.5k. Since I already have onboard air, this makes financial sense.
Note: I think e-lockers are great! They are becoming very reliable. Just not right for me and my setup.
@@lexus_offroad_adventures NOT the lockiers that are better but the method-- the air lines nherrently cause issues-- leaks , breaks etc.. and always just when you need them.
@@lexus_offroad_adventures i agree with you. E lockers come unlocked if the vehicle rolls backwards just 1 foot or so, which is common making moves on rocks or rocking backwards in mud. Air lockers will stay locked. Also, with air locker you can engage it in 2wd if ya want, or just lock the front axle if ya want Toyota only allows Elocker on in 4Lo (or 4hi if you hack it) Another angle is semi trucks. They are alllll setup on air systems for brakes and suspension and yea they get airleaks sooner or later. But the industry hasnt changed in 50+ years with them. A good truck driver has a repair kit on board w compression fittings and spare air line to stay on the road and they understand the entire system.