Thank you so much for the very informative video. I successfully replaced the battery in my FlirOne Pro, which never worked well at all (max 15 minutes run time). I had to buy a T5 torx, and plugging in the new battery was quite challenging, but all good now! Thank you!!
If you try this yourself you have to be very carefull disasembling the connector from the board. Mine broke of... And I guess that it was kind of broken allready. That explains the irrattic behavior since day one. The camera worked fine if I connected a powerbank to it, although this was officially not allowed by the instructionmanual. (It said: "don't charche and use the camera at the same time"). Since the wires are quite long I will try solder them directly to the board. I hope this wil work fine. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the video anyway. Update (14 hours later) I sharpened by solderiron and that did the trick. The wires are now directly soldered on the main board. It worked. Happy with the result.
WOW, that's great to know that it worked for you. About the charging, it also worked for me when connected to my iPhone, even if they said it will not work.
Thanks :-) and yeah that's true Scott, I thinks this Lithium battery was some of the cheaper battery type, or it has been stored in a wrong place. But the new battery works so much better.
Exact video i needed, i was thinking before sleep, that deep thinking, i remembered my flirone pro i know how batteries are when not used, the thought was your gonna lose it if you don't use it, I grabbed it plugged in and nothing, BUT it came on caught mine in time but this is wrong for them to charge this much knowing there's no replacement for battery like you just throw it away.
Perfect!!!! Thx so much... It did help me to open the cam and i will try to change it with a new one. The flir support is very bad. I had a lot of problems and they want to change vs new one for 300€ :-(
A common problem this has is the case, you need to cut a few mm away where the power button is as the case switches the unit on and you end up thinking it has a fault or a dead battery, since cutting the foam away my battery lasts ages, i use it about 2 minutes a day for a month on a charge at least, also cut away where the usbc or apple connector goes so you don't have to keep lowering the connector to get it back in the case, it's them ready at the right size every time
Thanks a lot for this tutorial! It is interesting to see what will happen if both inside screws are removed... It seems like connecting battery with just one screw removed is a certain headache. So it looks like flashing small green light (not under button but inside the small hole) does not mean the battery is dead? red light seems to be indicating that device is starting, flashing green light under the button should be indicating that device is running normally.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. Wondering if you could have shorten the new battery wires as the additional length will put pressure on the components?
you could run a larger battery on the outside and simply make a little holder or use some Velcro to hold the large battery in place. then you can have hours of use. thanks for showing how to remove this!
I got my flir 12 months ago, in the 12 months I've only used it for about 60 minutes and I put it on charge tonight and only took 15 mins to top up to full, a lot of people say it's battery drains on its own or the unit switches itself on, the problem is the button gets pressed by the foam case, i cut the foam away where the switch is and cut the foam away where the connector is so I don't have to shorten the connector again to put back in the case, it never drains the battery now Flashing light next to usbc means charging, light constantly on means fully charged.
I enjoyed your video because it was very informative Would it work with a power brick connected to your female charging port without the battery being instal
Kenneth I know this is off topic but I am assembling a 3.5 Rolliflex and I cant get the cocking lever to advance enough to cock the shutter any ideas, many thanks, regards Kevin USA
Well, it could be a loose shutter or the connecting arm that goes from the advance assembly on the side to the shutter assembly on the front, but of course there could also be some worn out parts in the advance mechanism. If you need to take off the front, Remember to set the aperture wheel to f/22 and the shutter time to 1/500 sec. BEFORE open it, and when you have open it, also set marks on the shutter for the aperture and the shutter time, it will help you when you assemble the camera again (hope it makes sense..).
Appreciated video, thank you. You could improve on the tempo though, this video is so slow that I get sleepy when watching at 1,5 x speed, and at 1,75 x speed its hard to hear all words, so you might want to step up your phase of talking. Thank you again, the content is still good!
I am not sure it would be fine, In most chemistries, a 3.8V battery (nominal) has a maximum voltage of above 4.2V, while a 3.7 battery (nominal) usually has a maximum voltage of 4.2V, if the charger is designed for the former, the later (New one) will charge beyond it's maximum capacity and might explode or gas, just my 2 cents, the amp hour or watt hour is a measure of capacity and is irrelevant, it's the voltage that is indicative of chemistry ;) please reconsider or at least, don't charge it beyond 90%, or better yet, fully charge it while the cover is still open and then measure the voltage of the battery when fully charged
Good point. I just changed my battery and double checked the charging Voltage. It charges at 4.22V. So slightly above what a 3.7V nominal battery should be charged with, but probably still in a safe enough range. I think many common overcharge protections trip at 4.3V (please correct me if I'm wrong)
I am not 100% sure but it looks like standard Li-Pol battery (be sure to get Li-Pol not Li-Ion they are capable of huge discharge currents in contrast to Li-Ion, NiMh, Ni-Cd). You can try local RC store I think. Typically Li-Pol discharge current is proportional to capacity so any 3.7V battery having >= 1.5Wh should fit.
it would require more space (not really an option if you want to keep the battery inside) or a more efficient battery (more expensive and might be hard to find). But it is possible to use a battery with more mAh as long as the voltage is somewhat similar
The original one is about 38x20x6.1mm. I've just replaced mine. Personally i was already thinking about removing it completely and instead adding an external battery connector to the housing so i could add a larger swappable one from the outside. Maybe with a 3d printed case or so. But then it would make sense to use an USB-C extension cord between the unit and the phone ... otherwise it might get too heavy on the port.
![[FREE] CLEO SOL X ERYKAH BADU TYPE BEAT "NO DRAMA" | 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3Vterxgt4Q8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you so much for the very informative video. I successfully replaced the battery in my FlirOne Pro, which never worked well at all (max 15 minutes run time). I had to buy a T5 torx, and plugging in the new battery was quite challenging, but all good now! Thank you!!
Very very good tutorial! It seems I am doing the work along with you. Bravo!
If you try this yourself you have to be very carefull disasembling the connector from the board. Mine broke of... And I guess that it was kind of broken allready. That explains the irrattic behavior since day one.
The camera worked fine if I connected a powerbank to it, although this was officially not allowed by the instructionmanual. (It said: "don't charche and use the camera at the same time").
Since the wires are quite long I will try solder them directly to the board. I hope this wil work fine. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the video anyway.
Update (14 hours later) I sharpened by solderiron and that did the trick. The wires are now directly soldered on the main board. It worked. Happy with the result.
WOW, that's great to know that it worked for you. About the charging, it also worked for me when connected to my iPhone, even if they said it will not work.
The old battery suffered from expansion. Nice video and congratulations on 10 years! Cheers!
Thanks :-) and yeah that's true Scott, I thinks this Lithium battery was some of the cheaper battery type, or it has been stored in a wrong place. But the new battery works so much better.
Exact video i needed, i was thinking before sleep, that deep thinking, i remembered my flirone pro i know how batteries are when not used, the thought was your gonna lose it if you don't use it, I grabbed it plugged in and nothing, BUT it came on caught mine in time but this is wrong for them to charge this much knowing there's no replacement for battery like you just throw it away.
Thanks a lot for making this video :)
Perfect!!!! Thx so much... It did help me to open the cam and i will try to change it with a new one. The flir support is very bad. I had a lot of problems and they want to change vs new one for 300€ :-(
A common problem this has is the case, you need to cut a few mm away where the power button is as the case switches the unit on and you end up thinking it has a fault or a dead battery, since cutting the foam away my battery lasts ages, i use it about 2 minutes a day for a month on a charge at least, also cut away where the usbc or apple connector goes so you don't have to keep lowering the connector to get it back in the case, it's them ready at the right size every time
Actual repair starts at 3:49
great, thanks 😊
Thanks a lot for this tutorial! It is interesting to see what will happen if both inside screws are removed... It seems like connecting battery with just one screw removed is a certain headache.
So it looks like flashing small green light (not under button but inside the small hole) does not mean the battery is dead? red light seems to be indicating that device is starting, flashing green light under the button should be indicating that device is running normally.
Flashing small green light means the battery is charging, and constant on means it's fully charged.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. Wondering if you could have shorten the new battery wires as the additional length will put pressure on the components?
Must the new battery have a pcb in it to protect?
I tried this and it worked.
you could run a larger battery on the outside and simply make a little holder or use some Velcro to hold the large battery in place. then you can have hours of use. thanks for showing how to remove this!
where can I buy the battery?
Many thanks ang great video!
Hi my friend how long will the flir one pro lt work on a full charge please with that battery you popped in?
I got my flir 12 months ago, in the 12 months I've only used it for about 60 minutes and I put it on charge tonight and only took 15 mins to top up to full, a lot of people say it's battery drains on its own or the unit switches itself on, the problem is the button gets pressed by the foam case, i cut the foam away where the switch is and cut the foam away where the connector is so I don't have to shorten the connector again to put back in the case, it never drains the battery now
Flashing light next to usbc means charging, light constantly on means fully charged.
I enjoyed your video because it was very informative Would it work with a power brick connected to your female charging port without the battery being instal
Would you know when charging how many watts is it pulling?
Hi! what is the connector model on the new battery
Kenneth I know this is off topic but I am assembling a 3.5 Rolliflex and I cant get the cocking lever to advance enough to cock the shutter any ideas, many thanks, regards Kevin USA
Well, it could be a loose shutter or the connecting arm that goes from the advance assembly on the side to the shutter assembly on the front, but of course there could also be some worn out parts in the advance mechanism.
If you need to take off the front, Remember to set the aperture wheel to f/22 and the shutter time to 1/500 sec. BEFORE open it, and when you have open it, also set marks on the shutter for the aperture and the shutter time, it will help you when you assemble the camera again (hope it makes sense..).
@@mikeno62 Thank you very much I will double check again Kevin
Olá!
Sou brasileiro e não entendo bem inglês.
Onde comprou a nova bateria? Teria o link?
I'm so happy for you! But wasn't it hard to work with the gloves? Or does FLIR have Coronacoodies? Your notes and tags were absolutely BOSS!
When work with electronic boards the hands of the repairer must be grounded and isolated
Hello. I turned on FLIR one pro to my MacBook charger and the device didn’t turn on anymore. What should I do?
Appreciated video, thank you. You could improve on the tempo though, this video is so slow that I get sleepy when watching at 1,5 x speed, and at 1,75 x speed its hard to hear all words, so you might want to step up your phase of talking. Thank you again, the content is still good!
I am not sure it would be fine, In most chemistries, a 3.8V battery (nominal) has a maximum voltage of above 4.2V, while a 3.7 battery (nominal) usually has a maximum voltage of 4.2V, if the charger is designed for the former, the later (New one) will charge beyond it's maximum capacity and might explode or gas, just my 2 cents, the amp hour or watt hour is a measure of capacity and is irrelevant, it's the voltage that is indicative of chemistry ;) please reconsider or at least, don't charge it beyond 90%, or better yet, fully charge it while the cover is still open and then measure the voltage of the battery when fully charged
Good point. I just changed my battery and double checked the charging Voltage. It charges at 4.22V. So slightly above what a 3.7V nominal battery should be charged with, but probably still in a safe enough range. I think many common overcharge protections trip at 4.3V (please correct me if I'm wrong)
@@Leif_YT they cut off at about 4.25v in general. (Overcharge protection circuit)
Hi! Do you have battery dimensions? Thanks
hello, when can you buy the battery pack for FLIR ONE PRO?
I am not 100% sure but it looks like standard Li-Pol battery (be sure to get Li-Pol not Li-Ion they are capable of huge discharge currents in contrast to Li-Ion, NiMh, Ni-Cd). You can try local RC store I think. Typically Li-Pol discharge current is proportional to capacity so any 3.7V battery having >= 1.5Wh should fit.
Hello Mr. It is possible to put new battery with more mAh?
it would require more space (not really an option if you want to keep the battery inside) or a more efficient battery (more expensive and might be hard to find). But it is possible to use a battery with more mAh as long as the voltage is somewhat similar
In your description the item# is incomplete. What is the complete # on the aliexpress website. Good video by the way.
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001439190311.html?albpd=en1005001439190311
Sorry, but now I have corrected the web address in the description.
Thank's Dmitriy for the correct web address, I put the link in my description for this video.
i wish they sold the replacement for the USB assembly, mine broke and cant even find a broken camera for parts
Can you send alli express link?
You wouldn't happen to have battery dimensions would you? I'm thinking of upgrading to larger capacity.
The original one is about 38x20x6.1mm. I've just replaced mine. Personally i was already thinking about removing it completely and instead adding an external battery connector to the housing so i could add a larger swappable one from the outside. Maybe with a 3d printed case or so. But then it would make sense to use an USB-C extension cord between the unit and the phone ... otherwise it might get too heavy on the port.
anda hay que joderse ya se que camara termica no tengo que comprarme en la vida , para cmbiar una bateria todo un show es de risa señores de flir