Thanks for sharing this technique! Please please please do this wet in the future. Soak the stone in water and mist it with water as you go. This will help keep the dust out of your machine and your lungs. Silica dust is almost as hazardous as asbestos.
Drill and tap the end of the arbour for a screw and washer to lock the cup wheel on. This will be lower profile than the nut n washer. Definitely look into the 3 stone method for maintaining the stones. Nice work on this. Take care.
Thanks for the mention but who is " shane ". Im glad it worked for you, it certaimly can be a cheap way of getting a usable tool for those without the normal machinery needed to make them. Although if you have a surface grinder the extra precision may make a slightly better stone but the difference is marginal. Better to have a 99% stone than none at all.
I had posted the original video on a Facebook group and one of the viewers there had the same idea of the cup grinder so I wanted to give him the shoutout as well. I’m really liking the performance of these stones. I’m going to use a medium 6” set and retire the 3” original ones I made.
@@EnoRestoration i never thought it original good ideas are rarely lonely, but unfortunately bad ones are very common too! 😉 Perhaps if you cut your 8 inch into a 5 and a 3 rather than have 2 pairs of 4?
Are you thinking to make a 5" set and a 3" set out of 2 8" stones? I think the pair should be equal length so that as you rub them together for cleaning your are more likely to keep them flat vs rounding them.@@chrisstephens6673
@@EnoRestoration yes two pairs of 3 and two of 5, I find the 3 useful being small, but can see a use for something bigger although maybe not necessarily the full 8 incher, (I resisted the urge to make a husband and wife joke there😉).
When you cleaned them on cardboard, seems like you should change to fresh cardboard when shifting from coarse to finer grit. Don’t wand coarse grains on the fine stone.
I hate these guys that do a retake when something goes wrong. We’re always learning one of two things, either what to do or what not to do. They are equally valuable.
I picked that up from Adam Booth. He shows you how it’s done and sometimes it doesn’t go well. Gotta learn and move on. Thanks for watching the channel!
to keep stone flat best as possible the perfect way is to use 3 stones and lap them each other that a old method to generate perfect flat from nothing After for maintenance just needed to share wear and use between the 3 and reflat them again ... to clean two stone that mandatory to make X and Y stroke to avoid to form a gunter shape . channel Thanks for your video
One thing - you can actually make them on lathe :D I did that on my chinese minilathe, only I used cheap chinese ruby stones 25mm×100mm size. Sintered diamond bit for grinding wheels for cutting
Thanks for the detailed presentation.! I am not sure if my mill is up to grinding stones the way yours is. Also, I would want to be sure I can keep grinding dust from infecting my equipment. I certainly am not going to purchase flat stones like this so perhaps, after all, I am going to have to make some as you described.
I agree that you should be careful with the grit and keep your mill covered up as I did. You may consider a vacuum or one viewer suggested doing this wet. I am happy with the results, these stones have worked great for me. I have a couple extra sets I am selling on eBay, link is in the description. Thank you for watching and providing your feedback! I appreciate it.
Proper flatstones should polish!!! That E should have a nicely reflective "island" around it. A good set of flatstones can re-condition old scratched gauge blocks so they wring nicely again!!
I feel like you could have the stones concaved or create a radiused cove ever so slightly if that diamond wheel is not perfectly flat. Do you know what I mean? Exaggerate and imagine a cove router bit that has a radius but such a small radius that the eye cannot detect it. You can verify if you take metal stock of the same stone dimensions and then grind it and test with blue on a Starrett granite master for example. Great video however, I was hooked to learn your technique.
I do know what you mean. I worked hard to make sure the tilt and nod were properly tramed (aligned flat) before doing this. The results have been great. Thank you for the comment!
Did you tram your head in all axes, did you dress your stone? Did you inspect the stones after cutting or just start using them? If you don’t know your stones are flat you could be doing more damage thinking you’re helping things. Edit: after finishing the video I don’t see any of this but I did see some interesting tell tale witness marks from your second test engaging the larger surface of the vise jaw. The marks are that only the ends saw any refinement, which could be because the jaw was not flat, but *it was ground on a surface grinder* apparently, I’ve not seen the video. It’s also possible the scotch brute wheel could have set the stage for such marking from the stone, but if you think it through you’ll see that’s unlikely. The next possibility is that the stones weren’t actually flat. Checking for hinging at the 1/3 distance from each end is one test for this. I must have missed that part of the video. Anyway my point is be cautious using these on your finest china before you *know* they are what you intended them to be.
Thanks for watching and for your questions! Yes I trammed the head. By dressing the stone do you mean the diamond cup? If so, then no I didn’t but I only need one point of contact from that cup so the highest diamond point is doing the work. I tested the stones as seen on the video, they worked great for my home shop and I’ve had good feedback from those people that have bought them. I think they are a great alternative for the home shop machinist. As I said, I would never put them up against the expert machinist who have made these however those stones cost significantly more.
I saw you testing them in use, I must have missed the metrology. I’m glad you and your customers are satisfied. Tell me, please, are you a professional machinist?
The problem with making precision stones is that the grains of the abrasive be ground off by the diamond, resulting in a flat smooth grain surface. In other words, it won’t take metal off because it won’t cut. But since there is a tiny space between the abrasive grains, it does catch a slight bump in the metal surface it’s wiped against. That will shave off the bump. But in a smooth surface has nothing to catch in the stone, so nothing happens. I know some people, think the main purpose is to flatten the stone, and that’s just half of it. But if the stone does attack the smooth surface, then it’s not really a precision stone. It’s just a flat one. The problem with those circular diamond grinding wheels is that they’re designed to rough cut concrete or stones such as granite. To make the best of these stones they should be finished with a finer abrasive. The stone surface should look slightly shiny when finished, for the best results.
Great Video! Thanks for posting. This might be nit-picking, but when cleaning the stones, did you transfer some of the coarse grit onto the fine side of each stone? Perhaps better to do both fine sides first, then both coarse sides? Again, this is a great idea! Not only do some not have a surface grinder, but also the diamond stones for surface grinders are a lot more expensive! This is a cheaper alternative. I am unsure about how to compare the results (accuracy of the Bridgeport spindle tolerances compared to a surface grinder).
Thanks for the comment! That’s not nitpicking at all, I think you are right on and I appreciate the feedback. My viewers are awesome because I learn from them all the time. Being new to this hobby I like to try some different things and see if they work (safely of course). I have another video on my channel where I used a regular surface grinder stone wheel to grind a harbor freight sharpening stone. It worked out really well as an alternative for true diamond ground precision stones. Thank you for subscribing to my channel. I enjoy sharing this stuff with other folks. Take care.
Wondering: why not do a 3 stone flattening after dressing them with the cup wheel? Would expect the cup wheel to have quite a bit of runout. Maybe not enough to negate the benefit of using it to dress the stones, but to really finish them, three stones is a self-proofing system. Just wondering.
something is wrong. They should leave mirror finish. They are flat but your process didn't grind stone particles but just ripoff highspots. I assume that rpm of the wheel during griding was to small or/and to big grid of the wheel or/and to big unbalance. I lapped 240grid orange norton stones and they leave mirror finish. you can check video on my channel.
The Norton website only lists the grit as "fine" and "course". I did see a page on Sharpening Supplies . com that indicates fine is 400 and course is 150. In my limited experience, I have found that the hardness is important. The aluminum oxide stone is better than a cheaper stone. Hope that helps you out!
Thanks for a really interesting presentation, I would like to know what grit the stones were or the manufacturers part number and I would love to see your test pieces tested on a surface plate. From the stone marks it appears that either the test piece or the stone are "high" at the ends. Or is that a normal flat stone characteristic?
Thanks for the questions. The stone is a Norton 100/320-grit combination oilstone. There is a link to these in my description. I do think I left some high spots on my test pieces when I initially ground them on my surface grinder and the stone did a good job of highlighting those areas. I’m still working on improving my skills on the grinder. As far as the stones go, they come from the factory with high spots and rolled edges so by grinding them like I did they come out really flat. These have been great for me so far. Thank you so much for the comment and the questions, I appreciate you watching my channel.
Me thinks that the rapid transverse movement when you did the scotchbrite gave you the markings on the jaws. I wondered about that when I saw the process. The stones confirmed it. I am sure that it would have zero influence in the usefulness in operation, but you were going for jewelry not rugged. Might setup a test piece ( when you are bored and need a little testing) and do a micro transverse, possibly changing the speed halfway through….. but I am sure that the surface will be better with a slower travel speed. Me think 😂
I agree. I have more learning to do with the surface grinder. The stones are a nice complement to the tool box to help identify high spots. Thanks for watching my channel. I appreciate the comments!
I used a diamond blade on my skill saw. Flipped the saw over (clamped it to a table) and used it like a table saw where I ran the stone across the flat bottom of the saw.
Great question. No I did not dress the cutter. At the time, I considered it but I concluded that, like a fly cutter that only has one point of contact, that the diamond cutter likely also only had 1 high spot, and if I traversed at the right speed, (so as to not "spiral" the grind by going too fast) the result should be ok. Thank you for watching and the question!
@@EnoRestoration thanks! second question... you mentioned cutting stones in half to get two shorter stones. what do you use to cut them safely & efficiently?
I immediately subscribed. I liked all the camera action (I never see anybody use close up). Overall the best video I’ve seen in a while. Thank you.
Thanks Ron! And a new camera coming soon for better quality. I appreciate you signing up for my channel!
me too.. thank you..
That is a great idea, and done very professional by your good self,thank you.
Thank you for watching the channel!
Thanks for sharing this technique! Please please please do this wet in the future. Soak the stone in water and mist it with water as you go. This will help keep the dust out of your machine and your lungs. Silica dust is almost as hazardous as asbestos.
Thank you for the suggestion. I did have a mask on for the grinding operations. A wet set up is a good option too. Thank you for watching!
These stones are made from aluminum oxide. While the dust may be an irritant, these stones do not contain crystalline silica, which is very toxic.
Thank for the information and thank you for watching.
Drill and tap the end of the arbour for a screw and washer to lock the cup wheel on.
This will be lower profile than the nut n washer.
Definitely look into the 3 stone method for maintaining the stones.
Nice work on this.
Take care.
Thank you, great suggestions!! I appreciate you taking a moment for the comment and watching my video.
Very cool indeed
Right?!? Pretty easy to do in your home shop. Thanks for watching my channel!
Thanks for sharing. This is a good channel that I’m sure will grow.
Thanks for the comment and the support!
nicely done! A very useful shop item... Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching and the comment! These are very helpful tools to have.
@@EnoRestoration I use mine quite frequently
Thanks for the mention but who is " shane ".
Im glad it worked for you, it certaimly can be a cheap way of getting a usable tool for those without the normal machinery needed to make them. Although if you have a surface grinder the extra precision may make a slightly better stone but the difference is marginal. Better to have a 99% stone than none at all.
I had posted the original video on a Facebook group and one of the viewers there had the same idea of the cup grinder so I wanted to give him the shoutout as well. I’m really liking the performance of these stones. I’m going to use a medium 6” set and retire the 3” original ones I made.
@@EnoRestoration i never thought it original good ideas are rarely lonely, but unfortunately bad ones are very common too! 😉
Perhaps if you cut your 8 inch into a 5 and a 3 rather than have 2 pairs of 4?
Are you thinking to make a 5" set and a 3" set out of 2 8" stones? I think the pair should be equal length so that as you rub them together for cleaning your are more likely to keep them flat vs rounding them.@@chrisstephens6673
@@EnoRestoration yes two pairs of 3 and two of 5, I find the 3 useful being small, but can see a use for something bigger although maybe not necessarily the full 8 incher, (I resisted the urge to make a husband and wife joke there😉).
@@chrisstephens6673 you showed proper restraint! ha!
When you cleaned them on cardboard, seems like you should change to fresh cardboard when shifting from coarse to finer grit. Don’t wand coarse grains on the fine stone.
Thanks for the suggestion! I was so pleased with the result I didn’t think of that! I appreciate the comment and thank you for watching!
~ I AM DEFINITELY IMPRESSED...THANKS !!!
Thank you Sheriff! I glad you liked it and thanks for subscribing to my channel!
Very interesting and always interested in saving a buck. Thanks
Thank you for watching my channel!
Great idea.
Thanks for sharing.
Just subscribed to your channel.
Have a great day.
Thanks for the feedback!
I hate these guys that do a retake when something goes wrong. We’re always learning one of two things, either what to do or what not to do. They are equally valuable.
I picked that up from Adam Booth. He shows you how it’s done and sometimes it doesn’t go well. Gotta learn and move on. Thanks for watching the channel!
to keep stone flat best as possible the perfect way is to use 3 stones and lap them each other that a old method to generate perfect flat from nothing
After for maintenance just needed to share wear and use between the 3 and reflat them again ...
to clean two stone that mandatory to make X and Y stroke to avoid to form a gunter shape . channel
Thanks for your video
Three sounds like a good idea. Thank you for the suggestion!
One thing - you can actually make them on lathe :D I did that on my chinese minilathe, only I used cheap chinese ruby stones 25mm×100mm size. Sintered diamond bit for grinding wheels for cutting
Another creative idea! That’s why I like sharing these videos, you can learn so much from your viewers! Thanks for sharing your idea!
Thanks for the detailed presentation.! I am not sure if my mill is up to grinding stones the way yours is. Also, I would want to be sure I can keep grinding dust from infecting my equipment. I certainly am not going to purchase flat stones like this so perhaps, after all, I am going to have to make some as you described.
I agree that you should be careful with the grit and keep your mill covered up as I did. You may consider a vacuum or one viewer suggested doing this wet. I am happy with the results, these stones have worked great for me. I have a couple extra sets I am selling on eBay, link is in the description. Thank you for watching and providing your feedback! I appreciate it.
Proper flatstones should polish!!! That E should have a nicely reflective "island" around it. A good set of flatstones can re-condition old scratched gauge blocks so they wring nicely again!!
I hadn’t heard that before. Thanks for the comment I’ll try that with the fine side of the stone and see.
@@EnoRestoration because you have done no research i'm afraid :/
I feel like you could have the stones concaved or create a radiused cove ever so slightly if that diamond wheel is not perfectly flat. Do you know what I mean? Exaggerate and imagine a cove router bit that has a radius but such a small radius that the eye cannot detect it. You can verify if you take metal stock of the same stone dimensions and then grind it and test with blue on a Starrett granite master for example. Great video however, I was hooked to learn your technique.
I do know what you mean. I worked hard to make sure the tilt and nod were properly tramed (aligned flat) before doing this. The results have been great. Thank you for the comment!
Did you tram your head in all axes, did you dress your stone?
Did you inspect the stones after cutting or just start using them?
If you don’t know your stones are flat you could be doing more damage thinking you’re helping things.
Edit: after finishing the video I don’t see any of this but I did see some interesting tell tale witness marks from your second test engaging the larger surface of the vise jaw.
The marks are that only the ends saw any refinement, which could be because the jaw was not flat, but *it was ground on a surface grinder* apparently, I’ve not seen the video. It’s also possible the scotch brute wheel could have set the stage for such marking from the stone, but if you think it through you’ll see that’s unlikely.
The next possibility is that the stones weren’t actually flat. Checking for hinging at the 1/3 distance from each end is one test for this. I must have missed that part of the video.
Anyway my point is be cautious using these on your finest china before you *know* they are what you intended them to be.
Thanks for watching and for your questions! Yes I trammed the head. By dressing the stone do you mean the diamond cup? If so, then no I didn’t but I only need one point of contact from that cup so the highest diamond point is doing the work. I tested the stones as seen on the video, they worked great for my home shop and I’ve had good feedback from those people that have bought them. I think they are a great alternative for the home shop machinist. As I said, I would never put them up against the expert machinist who have made these however those stones cost significantly more.
I saw you testing them in use, I must have missed the metrology.
I’m glad you and your customers are satisfied.
Tell me, please, are you a professional machinist?
@@matter9No, not at all. Just learning and sharing my experiences in my hobby shop.
The problem with making precision stones is that the grains of the abrasive be ground off by the diamond, resulting in a flat smooth grain surface. In other words, it won’t take metal off because it won’t cut. But since there is a tiny space between the abrasive grains, it does catch a slight bump in the metal surface it’s wiped against. That will shave off the bump. But in a smooth surface has nothing to catch in the stone, so nothing happens.
I know some people, think the main purpose is to flatten the stone, and that’s just half of it. But if the stone does attack the smooth surface, then it’s not really a precision stone. It’s just a flat one. The problem with those circular diamond grinding wheels is that they’re designed to rough cut concrete or stones such as granite. To make the best of these stones they should be finished with a finer abrasive. The stone surface should look slightly shiny when finished, for the best results.
Thanks for the comment! This video has been great way to learn a lot about flat stones. My viewers are awesome. Thank you for contributing!
Great Video! Thanks for posting. This might be nit-picking, but when cleaning the stones, did you transfer some of the coarse grit onto the fine side of each stone? Perhaps better to do both fine sides first, then both coarse sides?
Again, this is a great idea! Not only do some not have a surface grinder, but also the diamond stones for surface grinders are a lot more expensive! This is a cheaper alternative.
I am unsure about how to compare the results (accuracy of the Bridgeport spindle tolerances compared to a surface grinder).
Thanks for the comment! That’s not nitpicking at all, I think you are right on and I appreciate the feedback. My viewers are awesome because I learn from them all the time. Being new to this hobby I like to try some different things and see if they work (safely of course). I have another video on my channel where I used a regular surface grinder stone wheel to grind a harbor freight sharpening stone. It worked out really well as an alternative for true diamond ground precision stones. Thank you for subscribing to my channel. I enjoy sharing this stuff with other folks. Take care.
Wondering: why not do a 3 stone flattening after dressing them with the cup wheel? Would expect the cup wheel to have quite a bit of runout. Maybe not enough to negate the benefit of using it to dress the stones, but to really finish them, three stones is a self-proofing system. Just wondering.
Really good suggestion. Through these comments I’ve heard more about the three stone method, I’ll check that out. Thank you for watching the channel!
Couldn't you use the three plate method to get them flat ?
That is a good idea, I'll look into it! Thanks for the comment!
something is wrong. They should leave mirror finish. They are flat but your process didn't grind stone particles but just ripoff highspots. I assume that rpm of the wheel during griding was to small or/and to big grid of the wheel or/and to big unbalance.
I lapped 240grid orange norton stones and they leave mirror finish. you can check video on my channel.
Thanks for watching my video. I’ll check out your channel. Thank you.
Can you tell me what the two grades of your stones are on either side,please? The ones I’ve seen that I might be able to use are 250 and 150.
The Norton website only lists the grit as "fine" and "course". I did see a page on Sharpening Supplies . com that indicates fine is 400 and course is 150. In my limited experience, I have found that the hardness is important. The aluminum oxide stone is better than a cheaper stone. Hope that helps you out!
Thanks for a really interesting presentation, I would like to know what grit the stones were or the manufacturers part number and I would love to see your test pieces tested on a surface plate. From the stone marks it appears that either the test piece or the stone are "high" at the ends. Or is that a normal flat stone characteristic?
Thanks for the questions. The stone is a Norton 100/320-grit combination oilstone. There is a link to these in my description. I do think I left some high spots on my test pieces when I initially ground them on my surface grinder and the stone did a good job of highlighting those areas. I’m still working on improving my skills on the grinder. As far as the stones go, they come from the factory with high spots and rolled edges so by grinding them like I did they come out really flat. These have been great for me so far. Thank you so much for the comment and the questions, I appreciate you watching my channel.
Hi and thanks for the video do you ship to AUSTRALIA Hooroo PAUL
Hello! I have an eBay listing in the description that would allow for international shipping. Thank you for watching and supporting the channel!
Me thinks that the rapid transverse movement when you did the scotchbrite gave you the markings on the jaws. I wondered about that when I saw the process. The stones confirmed it. I am sure that it would have zero influence in the usefulness in operation, but you were going for jewelry not rugged. Might setup a test piece ( when you are bored and need a little testing) and do a micro transverse, possibly changing the speed halfway through….. but I am sure that the surface will be better with a slower travel speed. Me think 😂
I agree. I have more learning to do with the surface grinder. The stones are a nice complement to the tool box to help identify high spots. Thanks for watching my channel. I appreciate the comments!
You mentioned cutting the stone in two pieces. Do you have a good suggestion how to cut the stone?
I used a diamond blade on my skill saw. Flipped the saw over (clamped it to a table) and used it like a table saw where I ran the stone across the flat bottom of the saw.
@@EnoRestoration didn‘t though about a diamont blade. But great advise than I could use my miter saw. Thank and keep up with those great videos!
Thank you, I appreciate the support!
Did you dress the diamond cutter flat beforehand ?
Great question. No I did not dress the cutter. At the time, I considered it but I concluded that, like a fly cutter that only has one point of contact, that the diamond cutter likely also only had 1 high spot, and if I traversed at the right speed, (so as to not "spiral" the grind by going too fast) the result should be ok. Thank you for watching and the question!
What RPM did you use on the diamond wheel?
Thank you for subscribing, I appreciate it! I ran the Diamond wheel at about 1,800 RPM.
@@EnoRestoration thanks! second question... you mentioned cutting stones in half to get two shorter stones. what do you use to cut them safely & efficiently?
@@rbrianlindahl5499 I used a diamond blade on a skill saw.