I'm 5 minutes in. I've all ready hit the Like & I've subscribed. Guilty, I too have a Troyke BH-12 that hasn't weathered it's storage spot very well. Makes me wonder why anyone can have 3.3K views with 33 comments & not have more subscribers. I'm a hobbyist at machining just as I suspect most are. Come on people, let the guy make a lil sumthin for his taking the time to share! Really just curious how many viewers are here because too have a Troyke BH-12?
Thanks for trying out my video! It’s pretty fun for me when folks take an interest in my content and a video takes off like this one did. I like to share what I’m doing simply because others may find it interesting. “Giving back” if you will. Thanks for the comment and following my channel.
I've repaired some of the servo driven Troyke tables in the field. If you ever need parts, they are out of Cincinnati, Ohio. From my experience, they are very helpful.
I happened to come across your channel. And loved the content of this I actually had just bought the same thing and I appreciate you sharing this cause now I’m more confident that I can make it happen 😊thank you.
Ha! Yes, Push the button!! You're too funny... Thank you for the support. I enjoy sharing these videos and hope people find them entertaining and helpful. Comments and suggestions are always welcome!
Shop Crane - Either overhead on rails (Uni-Strut) or some sort of rolling gantry, or converted Harbor Freight cherry picker, etc will help with moving around stuff like that! even the "Tubal-Crane" that Mr. Pete made would work
I believe you'll find that one rotation of the drive wheel will be 4 degrees (of 60 minutes each) which equals the 240 around the dial, which means you will have to rotate the wheel 90 times for one rotation of the table. Which is a little untidy when you want to rotate the table 90/180/270 degrees, each 90 degrees of the table will be will be 22.5 turns (or 22 turns plus 120 minutes), But is really good if you are making something 6 sided ie 60 degrees each side, then you just have to rotate the wheel 15 times exactly. My 2 cents on the chips inside, I reckon they got in via the hole in the bottom of underside of the base plate, which I think you may also be able to see the worm drive working, this was probably from someone using air to clean up their chips and they get blown along the slot on the bottom or the T nut slots on the mill table it was probably on. Really enjoyed the refurbish👍
As always, thank you for the education, I do appreciate it. This tool will be another fun one to learn to use. Question for you, why is the pointer adjustable? I would think that would just be fixed in one place. And i think you have solved the mystery of the chip pile, must have been blown in from underneath. Take care and thank you for watching!
@@EnoRestoration I was actually going to do a P.S. to you as to whether you got to line up the table zero with the wheel zero. I can't tell from the video if you got the two zeros lined up? and this will hopefully explain the adjustable zero pointer. If you didn't, you will need to set the table at zero and lock it(I don't know if the two zeros stamped into the bottom pieces of the table apply) and then work out how many turns of the wheel as you feed in the worm, to get the wheel zero in the right spot when fully inserted, this may take a few goes. The pointer adjustment is for the difference of when the table is new as to when it ages. The worm as it wears (if you keep adjusting for the backlash) actually becomes slightly smaller in diameter, the same applies to the large worm spline in the table. To put it another way, imagine an exaggeration where the table worm spline is a dinner plate and the worm drive is a full toilet roll, then as it ages the paper gets stripped off of the toilet roll, and after long enough, all you have left is the center core of the toilet roll, which is obviously much smaller than the full roll and will take more turn/s to rotate the dinner plate :) Of course it's not this dramatic and the worm will still take the same number of turns to rotate the table in one full rotation, But the zero point can vary because of the wear, and there is no way to adjust the wheel itself to correct anything. If the table has never been adjusted and depending upon the wear you may find you cannot get the two zeros to line up exactly, so then you use the pointer adjustment to correct the difference. Just set the wheel on zero and adjust the table pointer(after you get the backlash right). Remember one full turn of the wheel is 4 degrees and the zero pointer can move probably a degree back and forth, so it won't be much to adjust. Hope I haven't confused the issue with my odd analogy.
@@EnoRestoration P.S. Back again, Something was bugging me. On rewatching parts of your video, at 7:33 you show that the minutes marked on the wheel Can be changed, which means you don't need to play around getting the worm in the perfect position for zero, just set your backlash(BTW I note it says "maintain 2 to 4 minutes Maximum backlash" on the plate above the adjustment hole), set the table itself on zero, then set your minutes on zero, end of story. Also looking at the amount of adjustment on the table pointer, you could probably change it more than 4 degrees, which means you could be one whole turn out on the wheel and still adjust the table to read zero. Another thing I noticed, there is a fairly large opening around where the worm drive inserts, certainly large enough for swarf to get blown into from on top of the table. Cheers
Thank you, I’m following you. Makes a lot of sense. I think I will try and get the backlash a little lower. Lots to learn on this tool. Thank you for your support.
I bought the exact same table yesterday for $80! Pretty much same condition as yours. The seller left it out in the rain the past few weeks and it was FULL of water. I blew it apart this morning and was relieved to find the inside was well oiled and protected. The parts are soaking in evaporust now. Thanks for posting this! It was a huge help! Sub’d!
Hi Matt, thank you for checking out my channel! Are you saying the audio on my video is too quiet? I'm always trying to improve the audio but since each person is different (some watch on TV, some watch on their phones, some on laptops) I haven't found the best setup. This video was recorded with a gopro and it seems to have good audio. Let me know what you think. Thanks!
@@EnoRestoration No the volume is good. More like there is a difference in pacing. You sound more like you are talking to me in person while other people usually sound more scripted and compact information in short sentences. I feel like it wouldn't matter if you are doing longer videos like this(43 minutes) since I watched through it. I watched your other video on flatstones and liked it. Great vid. You deserve more views😊
Really I'm very impressed the way you manhandled the weight. Those days are gone for me. Would you please tell which paint you used. I like the finish. Looks like acrylic enamel. Thank you for the video.
Thank you! I was careful, it’s a heavy unit! I used regular Rust-Oleum paint, color is “Oregano”. But what I always finish coat it with is Dupli-Color Protective Clear Coat finish. Goes on very easy and protects from oil.
It was like trying to grab a slippery fish. I thought I had it and then it squirmed away from me...! After the video I got it down to about 6 ticks, but any less than that and it bound up. What would you have done differently? Thanks for the feedback.
Hi you can remove rust with a mix of molasses and 9 parts water, I have used Evapo-rust and the molasses and really can't see much difference, the Evapo-rust work a bit quicker maybe it just has a little soap or something Rich
This is a good example of why you don't use Air to clean your machine. Use Air carefully when blowing off your pants. By the way I enjoyed the video. Well done!
Based on what I’ve heard that’s not normal. But may have been from using air to clear chips and the swarf blew up there. Thanks for watching my channel!!
Im restoring a BH15 the 15” version of this table. I removed the table lock handle but I cannot get that rock rod out. I tried threading a bolt into it. I tried threading a threaded rod into it and slide hammering it out. It wont budge. Not even a little bit. I turned the table on its side and filled the hole with evaporust. Still nothing. I have everything else apart except this one thing. I keep ripping the heads off the bolts I thread into it trying to pull it out.
@@EnoRestoration thanks for the response. Its definitely been locked up. The guy I bought it from said its been sitting outside for years. I’ve been unlocking it part by part. Mine appears to be exactly the same as yours, just bigger and a lot harder to flip over without crushing your fingers. I did another hour long session of slide hammering it this afternoon and I got the pin retracted about 75% before the threaded rod snapped off in the hole. The pin is retracted enough I can turn it with the hand-wheel now, but it still takes both hands to turn. Im running it back and forth with a drill trying to get it moving easier but I tried turning it over and knocking out the table and it still wont budge. It didn’t come out anywhere near as easy as yours. Progress has been made though. Thanks again for the response. Im probably going to try to use an easy out on the pin to remove the snapped off threaded rod.
Yes it was! Picked it up in the dark on a Sunday night. (I knew the condition was poor but the price was right). I was heading out of town for the week and was able to scoop it up before I left. Also got a Bridgeport vise in similar condition that is currently sleeping in evaporust. Future project!
Backlash is almost completely irrelevant on dividing heads and rotary tables. As long as you have enough engagement on the worm gear to keep pushing through a cut ive never worried about it.
the brass plug is not so unusual my southbend copy has little plugs under all the allen head lock screws it helps prevent marring of the shafts and treads
I'm 5 minutes in. I've all ready hit the Like & I've subscribed. Guilty, I too have a Troyke BH-12 that hasn't weathered it's storage spot very well. Makes me wonder why anyone can have 3.3K views with 33 comments & not have more subscribers. I'm a hobbyist at machining just as I suspect most are. Come on people, let the guy make a lil sumthin for his taking the time to share!
Really just curious how many viewers are here because too have a Troyke BH-12?
Thanks for trying out my video! It’s pretty fun for me when folks take an interest in my content and a video takes off like this one did. I like to share what I’m doing simply because others may find it interesting. “Giving back” if you will. Thanks for the comment and following my channel.
I've repaired some of the servo driven Troyke tables in the field. If you ever need parts, they are out of Cincinnati, Ohio. From my experience, they are very helpful.
Thank you for the reference!
Nice commentary and details
Thank you Stephen, I appreciate the feedback.
I really like that drill press. Perfect for small tasks. Nice job on the rotary table.
I think the drill will be quite handy! Thank you!
I happened to come across your channel. And loved the content of this I actually had just bought the same thing and I appreciate you sharing this cause now I’m more confident that I can make it happen 😊thank you.
Hey Joe, thanks for joining the fun! Good luck with your project!!
160 views, only fifteen likes? PUSH THE BUTTON! It’s FREE!!! 😂. Gratitude from the viewers help defray the cost of the paint…..😊
Ha! Yes, Push the button!! You're too funny... Thank you for the support. I enjoy sharing these videos and hope people find them entertaining and helpful. Comments and suggestions are always welcome!
Shop Crane - Either overhead on rails (Uni-Strut) or some sort of rolling gantry, or converted Harbor Freight cherry picker, etc will help with moving around stuff like that! even the "Tubal-Crane" that Mr. Pete made would work
Good idea. Right now my garage door may interfere with an overhead system but I’ll look out for Mr Pete’s setup. Thank you!
I believe you'll find that one rotation of the drive wheel will be 4 degrees (of 60 minutes each) which equals the 240 around the dial, which means you will have to rotate the wheel 90 times for one rotation of the table.
Which is a little untidy when you want to rotate the table 90/180/270 degrees, each 90 degrees of the table will be will be 22.5 turns (or 22 turns plus 120 minutes), But is really good if you are making something 6 sided ie 60 degrees each side, then you just have to rotate the wheel 15 times exactly.
My 2 cents on the chips inside, I reckon they got in via the hole in the bottom of underside of the base plate, which I think you may also be able to see the worm drive working, this was probably from someone using air to clean up their chips and they get blown along the slot on the bottom or the T nut slots on the mill table it was probably on.
Really enjoyed the refurbish👍
As always, thank you for the education, I do appreciate it. This tool will be another fun one to learn to use. Question for you, why is the pointer adjustable? I would think that would just be fixed in one place. And i think you have solved the mystery of the chip pile, must have been blown in from underneath. Take care and thank you for watching!
@@EnoRestoration I was actually going to do a P.S. to you as to whether you got to line up the table zero with the wheel zero.
I can't tell from the video if you got the two zeros lined up? and this will hopefully explain the adjustable zero pointer.
If you didn't, you will need to set the table at zero and lock it(I don't know if the two zeros stamped into the bottom pieces of the table apply) and then work out how many turns of the wheel as you feed in the worm, to get the wheel zero in the right spot when fully inserted, this may take a few goes.
The pointer adjustment is for the difference of when the table is new as to when it ages.
The worm as it wears (if you keep adjusting for the backlash) actually becomes slightly smaller in diameter, the same applies to the large worm spline in the table.
To put it another way, imagine an exaggeration where the table worm spline is a dinner plate and the worm drive is a full toilet roll, then as it ages the paper gets stripped off of the toilet roll, and after long enough, all you have left is the center core of the toilet roll, which is obviously much smaller than the full roll and will take more turn/s to rotate the dinner plate :)
Of course it's not this dramatic and the worm will still take the same number of turns to rotate the table in one full rotation, But the zero point can vary because of the wear, and there is no way to adjust the wheel itself to correct anything.
If the table has never been adjusted and depending upon the wear you may find you cannot get the two zeros to line up exactly, so then you use the pointer adjustment to correct the difference.
Just set the wheel on zero and adjust the table pointer(after you get the backlash right).
Remember one full turn of the wheel is 4 degrees and the zero pointer can move probably a degree back and forth, so it won't be much to adjust.
Hope I haven't confused the issue with my odd analogy.
@@EnoRestoration P.S. Back again, Something was bugging me.
On rewatching parts of your video, at 7:33 you show that the minutes marked on the wheel Can be changed, which means you don't need to play around getting the worm in the perfect position for zero, just set your backlash(BTW I note it says "maintain 2 to 4 minutes Maximum backlash" on the plate above the adjustment hole), set the table itself on zero, then set your minutes on zero, end of story.
Also looking at the amount of adjustment on the table pointer, you could probably change it more than 4 degrees, which means you could be one whole turn out on the wheel and still adjust the table to read zero.
Another thing I noticed, there is a fairly large opening around where the worm drive inserts, certainly large enough for swarf to get blown into from on top of the table.
Cheers
Thank you, I’m following you. Makes a lot of sense. I think I will try and get the backlash a little lower. Lots to learn on this tool. Thank you for your support.
@@EnoRestoration Enjoy watching you putter around😉😁, it's relaxing for me.
I bought the exact same table yesterday for $80! Pretty much same condition as yours. The seller left it out in the rain the past few weeks and it was FULL of water. I blew it apart this morning and was relieved to find the inside was well oiled and protected. The parts are soaking in evaporust now. Thanks for posting this! It was a huge help! Sub’d!
Sounds like great timing!
Great job! I have an old 9 in Troyke, and I’m going to give it the treatment! Thanks…
Thank you! 9” sounds like a great size (less weight than a 12). Take your time with the backlash and you’ll dial it in nicely.
I don’t have a troyke but I love the experience. Thank You
Thank you!
First time on your video. Great restoration. Only difference between other famous channels would be they alomost shout😂
Hi Matt, thank you for checking out my channel! Are you saying the audio on my video is too quiet? I'm always trying to improve the audio but since each person is different (some watch on TV, some watch on their phones, some on laptops) I haven't found the best setup. This video was recorded with a gopro and it seems to have good audio. Let me know what you think. Thanks!
@@EnoRestoration No the volume is good. More like there is a difference in pacing. You sound more like you are talking to me in person while other people usually sound more scripted and compact information in short sentences. I feel like it wouldn't matter if you are doing longer videos like this(43 minutes) since I watched through it. I watched your other video on flatstones and liked it. Great vid. You deserve more views😊
@@mattkim7373 ok, great to know and thank you for the support!
I found your channel in the feed, very cool channel I think I'm going to subscribe and watch all your video.... thanks for sharing
Thank you! Another video coming soon!
Really I'm very impressed the way you manhandled the weight. Those days are gone for me. Would you please tell which paint you used. I like the finish. Looks like acrylic enamel. Thank you for the video.
Thank you! I was careful, it’s a heavy unit! I used regular Rust-Oleum paint, color is “Oregano”. But what I always finish coat it with is Dupli-Color Protective Clear Coat finish. Goes on very easy and protects from oil.
And thank you for Subscribing to my channel!
That was an awesome restoration!
Wow, thank you for the competent!!
watching you adjust the backlash made me scream at my tv, "Just make the adjustment, then put in the lock screws!"
It was like trying to grab a slippery fish. I thought I had it and then it squirmed away from me...! After the video I got it down to about 6 ticks, but any less than that and it bound up. What would you have done differently? Thanks for the feedback.
Hi you can remove rust with a mix of molasses and 9 parts water, I have used Evapo-rust and the molasses and really can't see much difference, the
Evapo-rust work a bit quicker maybe it just has a little soap or something
Rich
You’re the second person to recommend this… amazing I never would have thought.
what was the path that allowed all the chips into the device prior to you cleaning it?
Great question. Maybe in the open area where the worm gear goes into the housing?
I don’t think this table was taken care of very well, so likely chips flying everywhere was normal in that shop?
Perhaps adding a spring to the backlash adjuster would help remove the last minutes out of it?
Good idea, I tried a few times and couldn’t quite get it. I plan to manage the backlash and I should be ok. Thanks for watching and the suggestion!
This is a good example of why you don't use Air to clean your machine. Use Air carefully when blowing off your pants. By the way I enjoyed the video. Well done!
Great point about the air. Thank you for watching the video!
If you are interested, I have original drawings from Troyke for the diving disks attachment and the dial for a 15” version. Both as pdf
Eric, I’m always interested to learn more. You can share to my email (listed on my channel page). Thank you!!
Just tried to upload, but unfortunately I can only upload images
I have a troyke 18 inch rotary, its all i have to pick it up and set it on my mill
18” that just be, what, 150 lbs?? Do you have a hoist you use?
@@EnoRestoration it's close to 180.. and no, I am a pretty big guy.. so I just pick it up.. but it's heavy for sure
I am envisioning the world’s strongest man contests when they have to grab those Atlas balls and put them on top of the barrels…!
Shouldn't you check that the rotary table is parallel to the mill table? And that the RT stays parallel as it is rotated?
I agree, that will be a good check for a future project. Thank you!
Turned out nice could do with another’s few tee slots
Thank you!
Is it normal to find so many chips inside the workings of a rotary table? I thought they were more of a sealed unit??
Based on what I’ve heard that’s not normal. But may have been from using air to clear chips and the swarf blew up there. Thanks for watching my channel!!
how could that possibly work with all those chips inside and how did they get there in the first place?
Rich
It’s like a mouse-house of chips. Crazy!
Im restoring a BH15 the 15” version of this table. I removed the table lock handle but I cannot get that rock rod out. I tried threading a bolt into it. I tried threading a threaded rod into it and slide hammering it out. It wont budge. Not even a little bit. I turned the table on its side and filled the hole with evaporust. Still nothing. I have everything else apart except this one thing. I keep ripping the heads off the bolts I thread into it trying to pull it out.
I don't have a 15", so not sure if its different inside. But is the lock rod jammed into the table (rusted in place)? Can you rotate the table at all?
@@EnoRestoration thanks for the response. Its definitely been locked up. The guy I bought it from said its been sitting outside for years. I’ve been unlocking it part by part. Mine appears to be exactly the same as yours, just bigger and a lot harder to flip over without crushing your fingers. I did another hour long session of slide hammering it this afternoon and I got the pin retracted about 75% before the threaded rod snapped off in the hole. The pin is retracted enough I can turn it with the hand-wheel now, but it still takes both hands to turn. Im running it back and forth with a drill trying to get it moving easier but I tried turning it over and knocking out the table and it still wont budge. It didn’t come out anywhere near as easy as yours. Progress has been made though. Thanks again for the response. Im probably going to try to use an easy out on the pin to remove the snapped off threaded rod.
Good save!
Yes it was! Picked it up in the dark on a Sunday night. (I knew the condition was poor but the price was right). I was heading out of town for the week and was able to scoop it up before I left. Also got a Bridgeport vise in similar condition that is currently sleeping in evaporust. Future project!
Backlash is almost completely irrelevant on dividing heads and rotary tables. As long as you have enough engagement on the worm gear to keep pushing through a cut ive never worried about it.
Always appreciate the feedback from my fellow New Hampshirite!
the brass plug is not so unusual my southbend copy has little plugs under all the allen head lock screws it helps prevent marring of the shafts and treads
Interesting, thank you for the information and for watching my video.
Can't believe all them chips inside
Cave of chips!
Do you know what you are doing?
Some days, yes.
looks like these cannot be made in kit6chen.
Agreed. Keep this out of the kitchen…!