That was a great restoration. I have a similar one that can be rotated. I do have a question, since you have a surface grinder why didn't you cut two 90 degree slots in the tops of the jaw inserts? I clamp almost all of my smaller pieces in the jaw slots on mine eliminating using parallel bars. I would have also welded the two drillings in the throat of the vise and resurfaced. You did a fantastic job !!
Eddie, thank you for the feedback and the comment! Yes, I liked how this came out and the gentlemen that has it now is very happy with it. Great Ideas about the slots and the drill holes. I'll remember that for my next project. Thanks again and have a great day!
Nip the sharpest part off the point of a sheetrock screw, screw it into the oiler you want to remove, then use a claw hammer to pull the whole thing out like you would a nail. It'll trash the oiler, but it'll come out. Great job on that!
Since that hole in the base is so large, it would be noticeable cosmetic upgrade if you bored it out to get it straight, and then press a cast iron slug in and then deck it off. It would be an interesting side project to try, and there would be a noticeable visual improvement. Keep up the good work.
That would have been my suggestion too, the "apprentice marks" do rather let down all the hard work. Loctite and interference fit cast iron plugs would be all but invisible if done with care.
I used a woodscrew to remove the old oilers from my Colchester lathe. Screwed them in and then used some combination pliers to lever them out. Do you have elephants living above you?
Hey Jame, if I didn't know better, I'd say you have a Vice for Vises... Not that I mind, mind you... your call for showing/admitting your soft spot... Keep up the great work, non-the-less, and keep those vids a comin'.... Cheers!
Yeah, I hear you about the vise vice..., but this was an opportunistic purchase that came along with the rotary table... Its listed for sale locally and I hope to move it quickly and turn that cash into something else... I do actually have 3 other vises (a really cool 3 axis Victor among them), but I'll hold off on working on those for a while... Thanks for following along!
The hole in the top of the moveable jaw should have a set screw down in it. It holds the bronze nut in. The hole in the bottom of the nut should have a felt pad to hold oil.
I got mine at a rummage sale. It looked like it hadnt been used for 50 years. It was covered in about a half inch of chips, grease, rust, dirt... and of course random holes and all over it. It has the swivel base which is really nice.. not all of them stay with the swivel. I didn't pay much for it. I filled up all the holes and the drill pecks all over it. I had to grind the bed and bases smooth and flat. Yours turned out nice. I think every shop should have one if they have a mill suited for its use.
@@EnoRestoration I have another in about the same condition yours was in. I should video the process. I did see an assembly diagram. The "hole" in the slide jaw casting is a small pin.that holds in the bearing bronze nut. I've never had to remove it. I originally thought it was a peck hole from a drill too.
How did the jaw lift numbers come out? Thats what I just found with mine. I was hoping you were going to address that. I was trying to square a block and just couldn't get them parallel 😮. Your work looks great.
Did you chase the threads in the "end stop" holes off camera? Great resto despite the bufferburn. Every vise refurb has Apprentice Marks. These are pretty mild in comparison to something out of a school. Great job!
Frying an entire bird like that is so foreign to me as a Dutchman. But sure looks delicious. Excellent safety precautions too. As for the grinding, you mention that it needs balancing, but did you dress it already?
Congrats on being the first one to comment on the turkey fryer...! It was a first time for me doing so, but it came out great. Yes, the wheel is dressed, but I need to balance it. I have a dedicated hub that I can mount the wheel onto, just need to get a rig to balance it on. Thanks for watching and the comment!
Couldn’t you use your grinder guiding side to side since it won’t cut properly lengthwise? I’m not a machinist I just see a possibility when cutting side to side. Yes, a lot of very short cuts over a wide area, yet it should accomplish the proper results, would it not?
You are on the right track (looking for other solutions...). With the case of a surface grinder, the max y-axis (in and out) travel is about 6 inches. So, although I could mount the vise in that orientation, and take shorter passes, I would only be able to go less than half way in one set up. I do have other Kurt vise videos where I do use the surface grinder to clean up the ways. Maybe check those out. Thanks for watching!!
Probably lead based paint. Worth considering. What you very successfully did, was destroy all the history of that vice. The scars and dings, made it what it is, an antique working tool. To clean up the precision surfaces, yeah, that's fine, and a good idea. It now, as we Australians like to say, looks like shit
Always good to check for lead paint before grinding it. In this case it had no paint so I was ok. And thank you for watching the video. I like to think this vise now has a second life that it would not have otherwise. The new owner is very happy with it.
I will have to disagree with you here old oil smell is not loveable & neither is new oil smell. I have seen guys screw a selftaping screw in to an oiler & used that to pull them out, keep up the good work.
![Die Filer [Restoration]](/img/n.gif)
Nice work
Thank you very much!
@@EnoRestoration you’re very welcome. No easy restoration. Take care
I have that same vice on my mill, I had to recondition it also, it was in a leaking Conx container for years.
I enjoyed bringing this one back to life. And it already has a new home with a gentleman here in NH. He’ll give it a new life in his shop.
That was a great restoration. I have a similar one that can be rotated. I do have a question, since you have a surface grinder why didn't you cut two 90 degree slots in the tops of the jaw inserts? I clamp almost all of my smaller pieces in the jaw slots on mine eliminating using parallel bars. I would have also welded the two drillings in the throat of the vise and resurfaced. You did a fantastic job !!
Eddie, thank you for the feedback and the comment! Yes, I liked how this came out and the gentlemen that has it now is very happy with it. Great Ideas about the slots and the drill holes. I'll remember that for my next project. Thanks again and have a great day!
That groove in the front may be a felt seal. Another nice project.
A felt seal would be a good idea to keep that clear. Thanks for the continued support of my channel!
Nip the sharpest part off the point of a sheetrock screw, screw it into the oiler you want to remove, then use a claw hammer to pull the whole thing out like you would a nail. It'll trash the oiler, but it'll come out. Great job on that!
Ah, great idea, thank you!
Since that hole in the base is so large, it would be noticeable cosmetic upgrade if you bored it out to get it straight, and then press a cast iron slug in and then deck it off. It would be an interesting side project to try, and there would be a noticeable visual improvement. Keep up the good work.
That's a great idea, need more side projects,...! Thanks for the comment!
That would have been my suggestion too, the "apprentice marks" do rather let down all the hard work. Loctite and interference fit cast iron plugs would be all but invisible if done with care.
I used a woodscrew to remove the old oilers from my Colchester lathe. Screwed them in and then used some combination pliers to lever them out.
Do you have elephants living above you?
Simple and good idea! Much better than what I did. Thanks for the suggestion and for watching my video.
I bet the bore the threads are in has an oil groove, just like the casting bore.
Ah, interesting. Didn’t consider that. Thanks for the comment.
Hey Jame, if I didn't know better, I'd say you have a Vice for Vises... Not that I mind, mind you... your call for showing/admitting your soft spot... Keep up the great work, non-the-less, and keep those vids a comin'.... Cheers!
Yeah, I hear you about the vise vice..., but this was an opportunistic purchase that came along with the rotary table... Its listed for sale locally and I hope to move it quickly and turn that cash into something else... I do actually have 3 other vises (a really cool 3 axis Victor among them), but I'll hold off on working on those for a while... Thanks for following along!
Nice work, great video!
Thanks a lot!
The hole in the top of the moveable jaw should have a set screw down in it. It holds the bronze nut in. The hole in the bottom of the nut should have a felt pad to hold oil.
Ah, very interesting! Thank you! This is why I love these videos, learning so much from the viewers. Thanks!
I got mine at a rummage sale. It looked like it hadnt been used for 50 years. It was covered in about a half inch of chips, grease, rust, dirt... and of course random holes and all over it. It has the swivel base which is really nice.. not all of them stay with the swivel. I didn't pay much for it. I filled up all the holes and the drill pecks all over it. I had to grind the bed and bases smooth and flat. Yours turned out nice. I think every shop should have one if they have a mill suited for its use.
Thank you for the comment and watching my channel! Next one I do I may fill the holes.
@@EnoRestoration I have another in about the same condition yours was in. I should video the process. I did see an assembly diagram. The "hole" in the slide jaw casting is a small pin.that holds in the bearing bronze nut. I've never had to remove it. I originally thought it was a peck hole from a drill too.
Thanks for the intel!
How did the jaw lift numbers come out? Thats what I just found with mine. I was hoping you were going to address that. I was trying to square a block and just couldn't get them parallel 😮. Your work looks great.
Thanks Vic, I sold the vise before I look into that. Thank you for the comment!
Think id add some copper anti seize on the ways and thrust washers I have a unused Bridgeport vise in my shop from back in 1975 or so.
Thanks for the comment. I'm sure that vise you have would be a like a time capsule, very cool!
Nice job man!
Thanks!
I want one of those, but I sold out to the man and bought a used KURT vise lol. Cool video, nice paint job....
Thank you!
Good job, however those added holes should be bored out and plugged, otherwise they'll fill with chips and oil.
Thank you Dave. I appreciate the comment. I didn't consider fixing those on this build, but will do so on the next one. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. Glad to subscribe. Clear, great pace to narrative, overall very informative. What was rust preventative you used ?
Thank you for supporting my channel!
I used Evapo-Rust for the rust removal.
For rust prevention I simply oiled all the metal parts.
Did you chase the threads in the "end stop" holes off camera? Great resto despite the bufferburn. Every vise refurb has Apprentice Marks. These are pretty mild in comparison to something out of a school.
Great job!
Yes I did chase out those threads. The buffer burn did get fixed up nicely, but yeah, argh.....!!! Thank you!
Frying an entire bird like that is so foreign to me as a Dutchman. But sure looks delicious. Excellent safety precautions too.
As for the grinding, you mention that it needs balancing, but did you dress it already?
Congrats on being the first one to comment on the turkey fryer...! It was a first time for me doing so, but it came out great. Yes, the wheel is dressed, but I need to balance it. I have a dedicated hub that I can mount the wheel onto, just need to get a rig to balance it on. Thanks for watching and the comment!
I have the same vise, do you know if any parts are available like the jaws?
I haven’t looked into that. I’ve seen some people make their own.
Couldn’t you use your grinder guiding side to side since it won’t cut properly lengthwise? I’m not a machinist I just see a possibility when cutting side to side. Yes, a lot of very short cuts over a wide area, yet it should accomplish the proper results, would it not?
You are on the right track (looking for other solutions...). With the case of a surface grinder, the max y-axis (in and out) travel is about 6 inches. So, although I could mount the vise in that orientation, and take shorter passes, I would only be able to go less than half way in one set up. I do have other Kurt vise videos where I do use the surface grinder to clean up the ways. Maybe check those out. Thanks for watching!!
@@EnoRestoration I shall check out the other videos and enjoyed this one sir
👍
Thanks!
Whoever had it last was kind to leave the jaws open so they didn't rust up solid.
All in all, it turned out ok, I think it was only outside for a limited time.
Probably lead based paint. Worth considering. What you very successfully did, was destroy all the history of that vice. The scars and dings, made it what it is, an antique working tool. To clean up the precision surfaces, yeah, that's fine, and a good idea. It now, as we Australians like to say, looks like shit
Always good to check for lead paint before grinding it. In this case it had no paint so I was ok. And thank you for watching the video. I like to think this vise now has a second life that it would not have otherwise. The new owner is very happy with it.
🗜✅
Thank you! On to the next project...!
I will have to disagree with you here old oil smell is not loveable & neither is new oil smell. I have seen guys screw a selftaping screw in to an oiler & used that to pull them out, keep up the good work.
Great idea on the oiler, thanks for the continued support!
REALLY?
YES!!!
Wasting my data 🤦...not a restoration..just cleaning services
Thank you for watching and providing the comment.