Harley Davidson Charging System Check
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2018
- Harley Davidson charging system check is an overview of my new electric meter, and a how it works video. I see too many people take their Harley and just throw parts at it until it finally works again! NO MORE! Grab a meter, maybe an electrical diagnostics manual, and this video, and we can figure out why your charging system isn't working!
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After 2 years/2 batteries, replacement of about every relay and fuse, and keeping my rides short enough to have a charge, I finally watched this video, replaced my regulator/rectifier and have resolved my issue! John, You're the man! appreciate you brother!
Nice diagnostic. I like how you broke everything down and made it easy to understand 😅👍🏽
This is the most thorough video on the subject I’ve found. It confirms my belief that I need a new regulator for my Dyna as it’s fried two brand new batteries. Thanks! Subscribed!
Good job John.
I’m shade tree, but love to wrench on my scoot.
Your videos are perfect for the non pro mech.
Just started following you a few days ago, so far, I'm very impressed and think your videos are very informative...
Another highly informative unprofessional video! Thanks man!
Keep em coming.
Wow fantastic video and just what I needed! I am thinking this might be exactly my problem as I am experiencing the same symptoms as your customer. I am excited to run these tests myself. Thank you so much for making the process so easy to understand!
Well done, your doing a great service! Thanks and it looks like your employer is a trusted and professional shop!
Thank you brother!!! After watching a plethora of these vids, finally someone explained in laymen terms. Did the necessary checks, new stator it is!! Thanks again.
Wow!! Great presentation. One of the few techs who know their craft and can explain it without using any of the seven words that can't be used on TV.
Keep rocking out the videos John, we find you interesting and informative .....👍👍
Thank you for the videos they are very informative and being 100 miles from the nearest dealer I need to learn as much as I can.
I found this about a year behind everyone else, but I'm a subscriber now...thanks a million, very helpful!
By the way, great video. Electrical is in my opinion one of the hardest issues to trouble shoot especially if it is intermittent. Always so many variables.
I love how you break things down and explain how things work and the way the operate as a system. I’m a new subscriber for sure. Good work my man.
John, you totally helped me diagnose a bad stator, sure enough opened the primary and was burnt. Thanks boss
Love the videos dude. Just changed my battery but now I know how to test all the other components.
What I’ve seen too is. The magnets crack or come unglued from the cover.
Speaking of covers. The splines also blow through and cause intermittent charging.
Good share dude!
Larry
Great info. Thanks! I appreciate the charging system overview. You don't always need expensive tools to check diagnostics.👍
You almost never NEED expensive tools to diag...but KNOWLEDGE is priceless!
I purchased the same exact meter about 2 years ago but didn’t understand how to use it. This definitely helped!!
Awesome thank you I needed this. I work in the semi truck industry. I recently inherited my dad's 1995 Dyna, he passed away a few months ago but told to take it and ride it, so if course it's pre-diagnostic computer. It had to be jumped every time in order to start it. Tested battery voltage sitting, it's good. Tested while cranking and it plummeted down to like 6 or something I can't remember. Got it running and tested at the battery terminals, idle was only getting like 4-6 v, bringing up to around 2000-2500 brought it up to around 13-14 v. So I've been trying to think what it is, I have a new battery to install and test this weekend.
You make this "Stuff" fun and for me, I can follow where you're going with "Things". Thank you John you make my 99 RKC safe and fun to ride! Kitty Hawk, NC.
I'm impressed with your knowledge!
Of course... I was blown away by a stripper once...
Anyway... shop manuals and electrical manual... checking into it for my 2012 Glide.
Thank you!
The most in-depth explanation of the situation I found on the tube thanks very much.
Hope you like the coffee. Thank You for the honourable mention. You may have seen the movie but either way it’s awesome so if you already have it, feel free to regift it. Looking forward to your next video. After that comment about the crappy day video (from David Garino below) my wife enlightened me cuz I hadn’t seen it yet. Wow that was disturbing and now I’m scarred for life !!!
I had the same wires it's your magnet connections, they also get dirt and other debris stuck in them that u will never be able to get out. it's the same reason you're getting .5 on your ohm test. I love ur videos keep up the greatness.
You are a hard working guy. thanks for taking the time to share your expertise for sure. Very good explanation on how the charging system works. bet most did not know there was an AC component even involved. again good job.
Thanks man!
Dude, your videos have helped me again. I was going to upgrade to a 50amp 3 phase for my 96 FLHR. Because my bike wouldn't keep up with the stereo (bag and fairing speakers) just replaced the battery and checked the charging and it was at 14.2. I actually came to see if you would show amperage output in the video. Checked it again after a 50miles, I was at 12.9 I assumed it was the regulator. But still checked. You probably saved me $400.
Great video as always! I've seen in the past (very rarely) thermol break down in the stator causing intermittent charging. pain to diagnose. Happens it more on the ignition side loosing spark
This was well worth my time. Thanks John! Keep up the great work.
Hey John, This is one of my favorites. Very informative and you taught me a lot. Now I will buy the Electrical Manual to go with my service manual. :)
Keep up the good work. Always learning something from you.
Good!
another awesome video by John Maxwell, keep it up bro! much appreciated
Nice V&H's short shots, great video, it is good to understand how all the parts of the bike work.
I have wide glide, had a stage 1 done, those short shots more free flowing air box and ecm to
put more gas into the engine, nice and throaty.
Love the video because I'm actually having the same problem. Thanks for the advice 😀
Glad it may be able to help you out!
I have the same code and it won’t charge riding down the road as well. I’m glad I now have a video on how to check it. thanks man
@@TheHarleyTech I have an 88 FXR. At 2k rpm I get roughly 35VAC. No charging at battery. Sounds like a reg/rec but should the stator be higher?
Excellent video, lots of good info to help go through the electrical system process.
Thanks! Another great video. I really enjoy your tool videos and tool recommendations. I have been wanting a multimeter. I'm going to order the Mastech right now. Thanks again, see you next week.
Glad you enjoyed!
You asked why people ask questions on fb. I can tell you part of that reason. I know so little about motorcycles and cars, and Harley says they have a bike for every budget; the problem is, they don't have maintenance for every budget. Love my Harley, but damn, maintenance labor fees are expensive! So I have to learn someway and asking the question on fb usually gets me in the right direction. Then to come here and find an outstanding video like this is awesome. So I do thank you for getting me that much closer to attempting this fix myself. No way I can afford to take the bike a dealer and get it fixed in the near future, but I really want to go riding again. Hopefully, after watching this series of videos I'll be able to get this bike fixed with the just cost of a couple of parts, which is bad enough.
I just did the stator on my bike. Found missing magnets on the rotor but the stator tested find. Replaced it anyways and now shes charging like a champ! Great videos, keep up the good work. 👍👍👍
clownpuncher7070 where were the missing magnets?
Alejandro Marquinez I'm assuming they got ground up in the primary. When I drained the fluid I only found a few small pieces metal flakes nothing else but the fluid was really nasty.
That’s usually what happens. Your fluid was probably almost like a paste
Hey John,that was cool,I had a rough idea about electrical problems,but now I have a better understanding of charging problems thanks John,👍😃....looking forward to the next vlog.
Thanks Paul, glad it helped ya out!
mint video John, keep up the good work, from one wrench turner to another, its amazing what you can do with a good meter and some knowledge. I find that lots of people have no clue how to use one...look forward to the next video. Keep the knees in the breeze bro!
John thanks for this video man, I was able to solve the issue on my 2016 Street Bob.
Love the vids, John. Thx for doing them. I think you might have missed a useful one with this vid. Easy way to see how much your battery is being drawn down when parked and the motor's not running. Current draw. Take that meter, or any DMM these days. Put it in mA mode. Disconnect -NEG battery cable at the battery. Connect meter +POS probe to the disconnected -NEG battery cable, and -NEG meter probe to the -NEG battery terminal. This will show how many milliamps are being drawn from the battery when the bike's not in use/running. A bike with clocks and gadgets will draw more, of course. Batteries have Ah (Amp Hour) ratings that usually go up with CCA ratings, but basically it's how much power your battery can store. 12V battery with a 20Ah indicates that the battery could withstand a 20A draw for an hour. So, you can calculate at the measured draw how long your battery will hang in there down to a certain voltage. Buying a junk battery with low CCA and Ah ratings means it'll go down faster when parked than a better battery with higher CCA and Ah ratings. Sure you have or can look up the calc formulas. A sporty sitting with literally no gadgets would last longer parked than an Ultra assuming the had the same battery - I know. But. A short would yield a higher draw. More gadgets that stay ON a higher draw. You got me, I'm sure. You might produce a few example bikes and what the parked draws are to give a way to ballpark how good a battery you need for your bike. Or, maybe this is a whole new video. Asleep yet? :D
Miss you, John. Hope you and your business are doing well and that you will return to providing some of the best HD content on the Tube!!!
Wow..... I've been checking TH-cam for this exact issue on my nightster, came to your channel first a couple weeks ago but found nothing really to help my cause then I see this vid today! Very thorough and easy to follow..... I think I'll be picking up one of those manuals for sure now!
Awesome, glad you found it!
Your videos are amazing. I used this to diagnose my Nightster and have narrowed it down to the voltage regulator. Im getting B1006 and P0562 codes and am randomly having my battery and check engine lights come on and go off. Fingers crossed that fixes it.
Awesome vid. John. Good basic electrical diagnostic info. Keep it up mate! 🖒
I wish you would have made this 5 years ago when I had to figure this out on my own. Great video.
02 Ultra suddenly developed a ce light on a ride.
I was on a highway that had limited exits at the time.
But, when I noticed the voltage meter dropping slowly with the first available exit and I knew it was time to turn around.
Home was three overpasses and a tunnel away inside of 30 miles while riding two up.
Got to within three driveways home before she gave up the ghost.
Did the voltage tests and a couple grounding tests and figured it was the VR.
While on the batt. charge I called around and found a VR 120 miles round trip and by the time it was installed the battery was good to go, pressed the go button and voila away she went.
Great learning/explanation videos.
...entertaining and informative as per usual. thanks much John!
Love the vids as usual! Great content! Just have to say,,,dude your hilarious! The whole manual thing....the book with electronic stuff in it lol.
Great informative video John, thanks for sharing. Cheers mate
Hey John, Just watched this video and it describes the exact problem along with the code PO562 have been chasing for about 3 months on my 13 883. Thanks!
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time and creating this educational content. You are my GO to channel for all my HD needs.
I was checking out your nice multimeter. It appear to be very similar to my fluke 27/fm with some modern upgrades.
My RK classic would not start after leaving the bike with the lights for several minutes. Since the bike died at my friend's house, I was able to get a quick jump using cable batteries and a car. When I got home I fully charged the battery using my trickle charger. Then I proceeded to test it using the multimeter and the old school testing methods. The results were 12.8v at full charge then it dropped to 7.3v when cranking the engine. Furthermore, I purchased a viking digital battery tester and the tester confirmed the battery test results where correct. Both multimeter and battery tester gave me the results of a bad battery. Just for kicks, after replacing the battery I took the old battery and re tested it on my bench, the battery showed 100 percent charged and in good condition. Actually, the numbers were better in this American Made Battery than the NEW Chinese one. I will re test both batteries the new one connected and the old one not connected. I truly hope that I am back to square one with a new battery.
Any feedback will most appreciated.
Thanks for showing the older full-phase system; most only show testing for newer 3-phase.
J M been watchin your vids a while and finally subscribed with this one as having a quality multi tester is a MUST for any level of mechanic and I agree you found a way above average unit..Am in ATL and work only on pre 1984 scooters,the last 40 years as a career machinist,always have a couple for sale,and build /ride nothing but old school choppers and Ford trucks..Am currently looking for a post 55 genny bottom end to get the word out.. I got a place in Fla too ,so I'll stop in sometime...Folks take it from John and myself,the key to making a small battery last is maintenance... I've had 6 volt units last many seasons. Theres no need to spend $300 on lithium ion. The regular SLA AGM I recommend and install ,some are under $50 and all under 100 depending on model with a 18 month replacement warranty.. Add this milli tester to your box whether you're old school like me or not, you;ll be glad you did..
Excellent show and tell and explanation as to how it works, thanks
Cool video, thank you! I have a 2012 FLHTCU and the engine light and battery light came on the other day. It has the P0562 code. The battery is less than 2 years old and I keep it on a trickle charge. The volt gage showed 13 and when revved went up to about 15. I'm going to use your tips to check things with a multimeter but I'm leaning to it being a regulator issue.
Good stuff!! Thanks for sharing the knowledge! Valued!!!
I like your Videos Man. It is right to the point, with a lot of Bull in between. Very Old school Biker here, Been there done that many times over. How ever Love the new Voltage Tester, you've brought to my and your viewer attention. Thanks Maxwell, Love Ya Man. Keep your rubber (tires) were they belongs.
Thanks. Been having issues with my 97 ultra.Gonna try and diagnose it my self
This video has been very helpful! Thanks!
As usual, excellent, entertaining and informative video, John! I have a friend with a Sportster who has the very issue you describe. Now I know how to go about troubleshooting it. Thanks for making me look like a hero! Or at least an expert ;) Love this channel!
One fine video again keepem coming but don't ware your self down , your so cool man !
Another great video my man. Really appreciate these
Great vid! It's a lot like being a CSI. I figured out why I wasn't getting spark on my old Honda using my multimeter and a lot of patience.
It is pretty satisfying figuring it out! Even though it can be a bit aggravating during the process.
Excellent video and funny ! Thanks you just reassured me of my issue and I subscribed.
I dig your videos.. If school teacher's were more like your chill. Down to earth i bet more kids would stay in school...I've learned alot from your videos...thanks
I hated school. Then I grew up and wanted to be a teacher. Weird, huh?
Thanks for the kind words!
This video is perfect. I actually had a problem with my 14 sportster where out of no where while riding one day my lights dimmed way down and kept drying at idle. I knew it was the regulator but I wasn't confident in my diagnosing. Took it to my dealer and sure enough it was the regulator. Worst part was they didn't have it in stock and had to wait 7 days for the part to come in.
most folks just guess, then an extra couple hundred later, they actually get it fixed! At least you didn't waste any money!
Cool, down-to-earth style. Thanks brother
Well done John. Lot of good info there.
Stator....bout like my car needs a starter cuz it wont start. Very informative video, subscribed. Thanky you
Glad to have found this video, thanks for uploading. Obviously I am have battery problems to even be here.
So far I have just blown NEW battery #2, my old Harley legit battery that has been in the bike for about 4 years was starting to die, as in, would fully charge it on a battery charger & get a days riding out of it, park it for the night then DEAD in the morning. So I bought a brand new cheap chinese battery, it had a picture of a Harley on the box & it was a 20L which is specs for my 2011 FXDF Fat Bob, what could go wrong & if anything it had a 12 mth warranty. 2 days worth of riding & I stopped at a store grabbed my stuff jumped back on the bike hit the starter & heard a loud CRACK and the dash went black. Lucky for that warranty.
Battery 2, which I then had a autoelec check the charging & new battery, which all came up as per specs, 12+ volts motor off, 14 volts running, he also check the battery drain while the bike was sitting by putting a clamp around the negative wire (to which there was a small draw but as I have an alarm system which is always looking for a fob this was expected & it wasn't excessive. Again 2 days of riding and this time I was doing about 100km/hr (2000 revs) down the road & shut down, everything just stopped, no dash lights no nothing.
Battery 3, I am going to replace the regulator before installing this one.
Apologies for the log winded comment, just thought I'd throw it out there just in case there are any other suggestions to look for, but after watching your video I am pretty confident now to purchase a new regulator. In Australia I am looking at about $150 so fingers crossed.
Great going. I don't like having issues with my harley. It's becoming a challenging machine. I measured it all and I conclude that my stator is making ground. I measure a resistance from both the stator connector pin to ground. Instead of 0.L i get 4.00 :)
Timmy's coffee.. da best!
Good vid!
Another great video John. Great editing.
Thanks Robert!
Dude I just love your videos!
One of your best yet!
Thanks Gary!
Hi matey. Your videos keep me entertained late at night. Thanks for that. Could you do a brake fluid change on a sportster. I know it's basic but gotta start somewhere. Ian.
Good video man.... One other cause for the stater to become grounded to the case is if the magnets break and chunks of them get wedged between the case and stater windings..... Had this issue on my old 1998 Titan......
Great video!
Thanks for the tech-tips on charging system!
I have a 08 Sportster XL1200N, and get code PO562 low voltage.
I'll do the checks, like you showed in video.
Thanks for your help!
Excellent video. I really enjoyed it, and have subscribed.
I have had constant regulator problems with my 2012 FLSTF since I owned it. They had a bad batch apparently, and it was changed under warranty. Then if failed again, and I was out of warranty, so I replaced it.
Next, the Stator failed.
I have the books and did all the tests, no problem. When I pulled the stator out, 2 elements of the copper windings apparently fused, and fried everything.
Put in a NEW STATOR (Rigorously computer tested, of course!) and found it to be dead. Checked it and found it was a dead short on all 3 legs. Didn't think to do a ground test on the new stator before installing it, (It's brand new, right!?!?! What could go wrong?!?!) so it was a really nasty surprise to get the bike completely back together and still have a red charging light. That was on me, I should have checked it.
Got ANOTHER NEW STATOR, checked it good per my Harley Electrical Manual, and installed it. Happy road bliss for a few more months. Then another regulator died. Changed it, and a few months later, the new regulator died.
I basically have a SACKFULL of burnt out voltage regulators, some HD brand, and some aftermarket. NONE OF THEM HAVE STOOD UP TO USE.
Got another battery red light again a few months ago.
Checked the stator per the manual. (I now have made harnesses I can plug in and check everything in about 2 minutes)
The Stator checks good, for output, and resistance per the HD Electrical Book.
So, yet one more regulator.
Put it in on Friday afternoon, As soon as I fired up the bike, the red battery light was back on. This is 5 minutes before I am supposed to go to the movies.
I was so pissed, I just climbed on and started riding. It's not that long a trip, and I figured I could limp home on what was left of the battery, before the engine ECM shut down. I normally lose my ABS system as the first indication of low voltage.
The ride was fine. I'm still riding it. It's still charging OK.
WHAT COULD LEAVE THE RED LIGHT ON WHEN IT IS ACTUALLY CHARGING OK?
I have over 130K on my bike, and I've ridden it twice to Milwaukee and back for the Harley Celebrations. I RIDE. A LOT. Over really long distances. My longest single day was 879 miles, ending in Dodge City Kansas for that night.
I want to go on more trips, but I no longer trust my bike at all. Is there a way to restore it to top operating condition where I am not always waiting for an electrical failure?
NOTE: I am taking the bike in to the local HD Dealer (Old Pueblo HD in Tucson) and going to ask them for a full diagnosis of my charging system, on Tuesday after Labor Day.
But I would like some knowledge before I do that and they tell me to change the stator and regulator again.
Sorry to say, but I have spent MORE on voltage regulators and stators ALONE, than I have spent in TOTAL over the years on my 1979 Yamaha XS11000. I have had to change one wire, and some light bulbs on that over the years. That has been the sum total of my problems with the Yamaha.
God, I wish the engineers at HD would pull their heads out of their asses and design stuff that works, AND LASTS more than a year.
Great info. Helped me diagnose that I have a bad stator in my Ultra Classic! Yay😒
I loved the explanation on how the parts interact with each other. I know it’s not always feasible but would love to see more of that when possible.
Just out of curiosity how often do you get to work on older bikes (evos, panheads, etc)?
Great video, thank you for your knowledge.
That meter looks pretty damn decent for the cash! I think I'll be picking one up next month!
Hey man, thanks for the videos. Could you give us the real deal on the twin cooled. Thank bro...
You described perfectly why my 2012 Limited looses voltage while riding. Easy Peasy to understand Video
You’d the man, man. Great video.
Thanks for the info. After replacing the voltage regulator/Rectifier many times. I upgraded my electric system. Now no problems.
How did you upgrade?
New stator?
New voltage regulator/rectifier?
New wiring harness?
@@fernominal my old mechanic (R.I.P.) put in new stator and regulator/Rectifier. Went from 22 to 30 amp. Accel makes the kit.
@@arthurleino
Great to hear your ride is running good now!
I found a Mosfet Voltage regulator/Rectifier for my 08 Sportster Nightster 1200 on the net for $50 bucks, and will be getting it soon! My stator is okay, so I'll only be installing the (easy to replace) part I mentioned. The Mosfet (brand of a company that is known for audio amplifiers, the part has a bigger heat sink, or fins to run cooler, and last longer, by virtue of a better type switch built in it, than regular voltage regulator/rectifiers!)
Ride to live
Live to ride!!
Dude good video. My dyna is having this exact problem.
Very helpful information thank you, just another question not completely off topic I noticed my late model Dyna Road Glide and Road King did not like to be left off the trickle charger for more than 3 weeks is that normal lose voltage and have a slow crank. Thank you Jim...
Thanks John Great job.
Too cool 😎, thanks for sure. 'Bout to check out the bike now, thanks for the tips
Some learning, very informative. Thanks
Another great video. Thanks for the help.
Good information, thanks for the effort. You have a great channel
Thanks Jim!
Best video yet
Thanks Mike!
Well that clears that up! Thanks John, you the man
Thanks Jerry!
Keep up the good work John!
Thanks! Will do!