After 2 years/2 batteries, replacement of about every relay and fuse, and keeping my rides short enough to have a charge, I finally watched this video, replaced my regulator/rectifier and have resolved my issue! John, You're the man! appreciate you brother!
You asked why people ask questions on fb. I can tell you part of that reason. I know so little about motorcycles and cars, and Harley says they have a bike for every budget; the problem is, they don't have maintenance for every budget. Love my Harley, but damn, maintenance labor fees are expensive! So I have to learn someway and asking the question on fb usually gets me in the right direction. Then to come here and find an outstanding video like this is awesome. So I do thank you for getting me that much closer to attempting this fix myself. No way I can afford to take the bike a dealer and get it fixed in the near future, but I really want to go riding again. Hopefully, after watching this series of videos I'll be able to get this bike fixed with the just cost of a couple of parts, which is bad enough.
This is the most thorough video on the subject I’ve found. It confirms my belief that I need a new regulator for my Dyna as it’s fried two brand new batteries. Thanks! Subscribed!
Dude, your videos have helped me again. I was going to upgrade to a 50amp 3 phase for my 96 FLHR. Because my bike wouldn't keep up with the stereo (bag and fairing speakers) just replaced the battery and checked the charging and it was at 14.2. I actually came to see if you would show amperage output in the video. Checked it again after a 50miles, I was at 12.9 I assumed it was the regulator. But still checked. You probably saved me $400.
Awesome thank you I needed this. I work in the semi truck industry. I recently inherited my dad's 1995 Dyna, he passed away a few months ago but told to take it and ride it, so if course it's pre-diagnostic computer. It had to be jumped every time in order to start it. Tested battery voltage sitting, it's good. Tested while cranking and it plummeted down to like 6 or something I can't remember. Got it running and tested at the battery terminals, idle was only getting like 4-6 v, bringing up to around 2000-2500 brought it up to around 13-14 v. So I've been trying to think what it is, I have a new battery to install and test this weekend.
I had the same wires it's your magnet connections, they also get dirt and other debris stuck in them that u will never be able to get out. it's the same reason you're getting .5 on your ohm test. I love ur videos keep up the greatness.
This video is perfect. I actually had a problem with my 14 sportster where out of no where while riding one day my lights dimmed way down and kept drying at idle. I knew it was the regulator but I wasn't confident in my diagnosing. Took it to my dealer and sure enough it was the regulator. Worst part was they didn't have it in stock and had to wait 7 days for the part to come in.
02 Ultra suddenly developed a ce light on a ride. I was on a highway that had limited exits at the time. But, when I noticed the voltage meter dropping slowly with the first available exit and I knew it was time to turn around. Home was three overpasses and a tunnel away inside of 30 miles while riding two up. Got to within three driveways home before she gave up the ghost. Did the voltage tests and a couple grounding tests and figured it was the VR. While on the batt. charge I called around and found a VR 120 miles round trip and by the time it was installed the battery was good to go, pressed the go button and voila away she went. Great learning/explanation videos.
What I’ve seen too is. The magnets crack or come unglued from the cover. Speaking of covers. The splines also blow through and cause intermittent charging. Good share dude! Larry
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time and creating this educational content. You are my GO to channel for all my HD needs. I was checking out your nice multimeter. It appear to be very similar to my fluke 27/fm with some modern upgrades. My RK classic would not start after leaving the bike with the lights for several minutes. Since the bike died at my friend's house, I was able to get a quick jump using cable batteries and a car. When I got home I fully charged the battery using my trickle charger. Then I proceeded to test it using the multimeter and the old school testing methods. The results were 12.8v at full charge then it dropped to 7.3v when cranking the engine. Furthermore, I purchased a viking digital battery tester and the tester confirmed the battery test results where correct. Both multimeter and battery tester gave me the results of a bad battery. Just for kicks, after replacing the battery I took the old battery and re tested it on my bench, the battery showed 100 percent charged and in good condition. Actually, the numbers were better in this American Made Battery than the NEW Chinese one. I will re test both batteries the new one connected and the old one not connected. I truly hope that I am back to square one with a new battery. Any feedback will most appreciated.
Hope you like the coffee. Thank You for the honourable mention. You may have seen the movie but either way it’s awesome so if you already have it, feel free to regift it. Looking forward to your next video. After that comment about the crappy day video (from David Garino below) my wife enlightened me cuz I hadn’t seen it yet. Wow that was disturbing and now I’m scarred for life !!!
Had a voltage regulator go bad on my 12 Wide Glide. Noticed it first riding at night. The lights would get extremely bright for a few seconds then go back to normal. I learned that HD had a recall out on voltage regulators for 2012 Wide Glide. Contacted my dealer and they said bring it in. Took it in and they said that it wasn’t under recall and nothing wrong with it. A week later the bike shut off with no power because it quit charging. Checked the Ohms thru the voltage regulator and found it to be the culprit. Just seemed fishy that it was bad and wasn’t covered under the recall? Good video!
Good video man.... One other cause for the stater to become grounded to the case is if the magnets break and chunks of them get wedged between the case and stater windings..... Had this issue on my old 1998 Titan......
John I got a 2016 street glide 4th owner it has a new battery and starter I ride for an hour or so stop to get a drink and it wont restart if I let it sit for about 45 min to an hour it cranks right up. Had it to 3 shops still not fixed . Thanx Dave R in Tennersee
Nice V&H's short shots, great video, it is good to understand how all the parts of the bike work. I have wide glide, had a stage 1 done, those short shots more free flowing air box and ecm to put more gas into the engine, nice and throaty.
You are a hard working guy. thanks for taking the time to share your expertise for sure. Very good explanation on how the charging system works. bet most did not know there was an AC component even involved. again good job.
Thank you brother!!! After watching a plethora of these vids, finally someone explained in laymen terms. Did the necessary checks, new stator it is!! Thanks again.
Glad to have found this video, thanks for uploading. Obviously I am have battery problems to even be here. So far I have just blown NEW battery #2, my old Harley legit battery that has been in the bike for about 4 years was starting to die, as in, would fully charge it on a battery charger & get a days riding out of it, park it for the night then DEAD in the morning. So I bought a brand new cheap chinese battery, it had a picture of a Harley on the box & it was a 20L which is specs for my 2011 FXDF Fat Bob, what could go wrong & if anything it had a 12 mth warranty. 2 days worth of riding & I stopped at a store grabbed my stuff jumped back on the bike hit the starter & heard a loud CRACK and the dash went black. Lucky for that warranty. Battery 2, which I then had a autoelec check the charging & new battery, which all came up as per specs, 12+ volts motor off, 14 volts running, he also check the battery drain while the bike was sitting by putting a clamp around the negative wire (to which there was a small draw but as I have an alarm system which is always looking for a fob this was expected & it wasn't excessive. Again 2 days of riding and this time I was doing about 100km/hr (2000 revs) down the road & shut down, everything just stopped, no dash lights no nothing. Battery 3, I am going to replace the regulator before installing this one. Apologies for the log winded comment, just thought I'd throw it out there just in case there are any other suggestions to look for, but after watching your video I am pretty confident now to purchase a new regulator. In Australia I am looking at about $150 so fingers crossed.
I'm impressed with your knowledge! Of course... I was blown away by a stripper once... Anyway... shop manuals and electrical manual... checking into it for my 2012 Glide. Thank you!
Excellent video. I really enjoyed it, and have subscribed. I have had constant regulator problems with my 2012 FLSTF since I owned it. They had a bad batch apparently, and it was changed under warranty. Then if failed again, and I was out of warranty, so I replaced it. Next, the Stator failed. I have the books and did all the tests, no problem. When I pulled the stator out, 2 elements of the copper windings apparently fused, and fried everything. Put in a NEW STATOR (Rigorously computer tested, of course!) and found it to be dead. Checked it and found it was a dead short on all 3 legs. Didn't think to do a ground test on the new stator before installing it, (It's brand new, right!?!?! What could go wrong?!?!) so it was a really nasty surprise to get the bike completely back together and still have a red charging light. That was on me, I should have checked it. Got ANOTHER NEW STATOR, checked it good per my Harley Electrical Manual, and installed it. Happy road bliss for a few more months. Then another regulator died. Changed it, and a few months later, the new regulator died. I basically have a SACKFULL of burnt out voltage regulators, some HD brand, and some aftermarket. NONE OF THEM HAVE STOOD UP TO USE. Got another battery red light again a few months ago. Checked the stator per the manual. (I now have made harnesses I can plug in and check everything in about 2 minutes) The Stator checks good, for output, and resistance per the HD Electrical Book. So, yet one more regulator. Put it in on Friday afternoon, As soon as I fired up the bike, the red battery light was back on. This is 5 minutes before I am supposed to go to the movies. I was so pissed, I just climbed on and started riding. It's not that long a trip, and I figured I could limp home on what was left of the battery, before the engine ECM shut down. I normally lose my ABS system as the first indication of low voltage. The ride was fine. I'm still riding it. It's still charging OK. WHAT COULD LEAVE THE RED LIGHT ON WHEN IT IS ACTUALLY CHARGING OK? I have over 130K on my bike, and I've ridden it twice to Milwaukee and back for the Harley Celebrations. I RIDE. A LOT. Over really long distances. My longest single day was 879 miles, ending in Dodge City Kansas for that night. I want to go on more trips, but I no longer trust my bike at all. Is there a way to restore it to top operating condition where I am not always waiting for an electrical failure? NOTE: I am taking the bike in to the local HD Dealer (Old Pueblo HD in Tucson) and going to ask them for a full diagnosis of my charging system, on Tuesday after Labor Day. But I would like some knowledge before I do that and they tell me to change the stator and regulator again. Sorry to say, but I have spent MORE on voltage regulators and stators ALONE, than I have spent in TOTAL over the years on my 1979 Yamaha XS11000. I have had to change one wire, and some light bulbs on that over the years. That has been the sum total of my problems with the Yamaha. God, I wish the engineers at HD would pull their heads out of their asses and design stuff that works, AND LASTS more than a year.
like this video. my voltage regulator stopped working, lucky for my its replaced under warranty, still cost me 400 bucks to get towed of the freeway on a Sunday night, and i've just bought a mastech MS8268 form amazon,, I believe what caused the part to fail was Id riden through a heavy rain storm the day before causing a ingress of moisture, I had a illuminated red warning light on my speedo, the regulators not in a ideal place on a heritage M8 behined the front wheel,
J M been watchin your vids a while and finally subscribed with this one as having a quality multi tester is a MUST for any level of mechanic and I agree you found a way above average unit..Am in ATL and work only on pre 1984 scooters,the last 40 years as a career machinist,always have a couple for sale,and build /ride nothing but old school choppers and Ford trucks..Am currently looking for a post 55 genny bottom end to get the word out.. I got a place in Fla too ,so I'll stop in sometime...Folks take it from John and myself,the key to making a small battery last is maintenance... I've had 6 volt units last many seasons. Theres no need to spend $300 on lithium ion. The regular SLA AGM I recommend and install ,some are under $50 and all under 100 depending on model with a 18 month replacement warranty.. Add this milli tester to your box whether you're old school like me or not, you;ll be glad you did..
Wow..... I've been checking TH-cam for this exact issue on my nightster, came to your channel first a couple weeks ago but found nothing really to help my cause then I see this vid today! Very thorough and easy to follow..... I think I'll be picking up one of those manuals for sure now!
Ok, normally, I get annoyed by your videos, but I have to give you the nod here. Great job!! Great explanations and visual. Job well done. Keep up the good work.
Hey john. Got a 2015 street glide that’s been through multiple batteries. 2 H-D and a Napa. Napa one lasted 2 months. No battery or check engine lights but voltage gauge on dash jumps around. Did all your checks and everything checks out. Think I should just go for the regulator and hope it fixes the problem.
I've got an 07 XL1200 Sportster. The start often has a slight lag, as if the battery is weak. The battery checks out good, and reads over 14 volts when running. Then I go to start it and it partially turns over and starts clicking. When I put the trickle on it, it starts like it's fresh. Ride it around the block, and it goes back to acting like a weak battery, clicking. I put an ohm meter on the stator lead and get 0.0
Tim Horton was a NHL defensemen that was and is loved by many and played up to an old age in hockey standards. He played for Toronto and then the Buffalo Sabres. He died in a horrific car crash on the QEW ( didn’t want to take the team bus) on his way back to Buffalo after a game against the Maple leafs in Toronto, he was in a car that was bought for him in a effort to get him to sign with the Sabres by Punch Imlach the GM for the Sabres. That was a very sad day I will never forget, His coffee is by far one of the best coffees on the market.
I just did the stator on my bike. Found missing magnets on the rotor but the stator tested find. Replaced it anyways and now shes charging like a champ! Great videos, keep up the good work. 👍👍👍
Alejandro Marquinez I'm assuming they got ground up in the primary. When I drained the fluid I only found a few small pieces metal flakes nothing else but the fluid was really nasty.
By the way, great video. Electrical is in my opinion one of the hardest issues to trouble shoot especially if it is intermittent. Always so many variables.
Riding down the road and the Volt metering Gauge started moving South to 8v....made it to my garage shut her down...wouldn't start...checked batt read 10v...charged all started...did your test...stator to ground Not Grounded...then phase to phase was 2ohms....probably the R&R? I did not do the pulled fuse test, yet...ran out time.
Hey John, Just watched this video and it describes the exact problem along with the code PO562 have been chasing for about 3 months on my 13 883. Thanks!
Have a 2002 Softail springer. The speedo keeps dropping off and the check engine like comes on for a min. Only really does it when getting into higher rpm. Also lights dim when happens. Think it’s the regulator?
That moment at 10:05 when your lunch sack lands standing up....coolness level just jumped a notch.Good video as usual.EDIT: Let's see a video where you troubleshoot LIMP MODE.No,not that one,the other one, where your engine light comes on,the bike won't go over 20 mph and you get these two codes P1511 & P2135.
Thanks John. Just changed my regulator. Tried the diode test on the new one but didn't work. Old one failed (2011). Same part #, but new has an A. Upgraded maybe.
Great going. I don't like having issues with my harley. It's becoming a challenging machine. I measured it all and I conclude that my stator is making ground. I measure a resistance from both the stator connector pin to ground. Instead of 0.L i get 4.00 :)
@@arthurleino Great to hear your ride is running good now! I found a Mosfet Voltage regulator/Rectifier for my 08 Sportster Nightster 1200 on the net for $50 bucks, and will be getting it soon! My stator is okay, so I'll only be installing the (easy to replace) part I mentioned. The Mosfet (brand of a company that is known for audio amplifiers, the part has a bigger heat sink, or fins to run cooler, and last longer, by virtue of a better type switch built in it, than regular voltage regulator/rectifiers!) Ride to live Live to ride!!
As a mechanic, (aircraft) I appreciate your taking the time to explain how the parts work. It is much easier to diagnosis electrical issues on my Electra glide when the how it works is provided.
Told you all about that meter couple of years ago when I went to v-rod school instructor found it at harbor freight also what happens when checking the charging system and all your readings are good but still is not properly working my last check after doing the AC test when the engine is hot is to remove the primary cover and look for smoke don't forget about older bikes when the magnets break loose and come together to give you a bad reading I could go on
The OG at electrical checks! There will be future charging videos, for sure. I shot this one “on lunch” while also on the clock, however that works! I’m glad you reminded me of how I learned about the meter. I think I might have give Sean credit, I knew someone came back from school with some good info. I’ll have to correct myself in the future! I’ve been wondering how you are, hope all is well!
I got my bike at the end of last year's season, basically brand new with 160km on it. I didn't ride it too much, and by the end of the season, I had only reached 500 km. It started every time, even after 2 or 3 weeks of not using it in cold weather. Then, during the winter time, I stored the bike in my shed. I removed the battery and put it in my closet. This season, I charged the battery, and everything was good. I ride it every weekend, but for the past 2 or 3 weeks, I've been having trouble starting the bike. It remains unused for a week, and on Saturdays, I ride without any issues, but on Sundays, the bike won't start. This has happened three times. The last time, the voltmeter marked 12.28v, which wasn't enough to start the bike. Then, I charged the battery, and after 3 or 4 hours, it was charged up to 12.8v, and it started with no problems. So, I wonder what could be the problem. I have a jump starter, which I use in emergencies to avoid spoiling my weekend. However, using the jump starter regularly is not ideal. Since the bike is still new, I don't know where the problem could be. The bike is a 2022 Sportster 48, thank you in advance.
As I understood it, you could put meter on ohms put red+ on a.c. lead on RR and - blk lead on Bat+ and get a reading as the RR would see this as the +side of the a.c. wave. if reversed u get nothing.
Great video as always! I've seen in the past (very rarely) thermol break down in the stator causing intermittent charging. pain to diagnose. Happens it more on the ignition side loosing spark
Cool video, thank you! I have a 2012 FLHTCU and the engine light and battery light came on the other day. It has the P0562 code. The battery is less than 2 years old and I keep it on a trickle charge. The volt gage showed 13 and when revved went up to about 15. I'm going to use your tips to check things with a multimeter but I'm leaning to it being a regulator issue.
Kind of agree with your choice of multimeters, but, there is always a but, your choice of meters should compliment your choice of wrenches. Best meter out there is a Fluke. It's internally protected. It's easy to forget to switch the meter to it's correct setting while performing your test. As an electrician, I work on all sorts of systems, 600 vac, 12vdc, continuity, amp draw, capacitor testing, diodes, etc. The Fluke meter is the best. Very forgiving.
Wow fantastic video and just what I needed! I am thinking this might be exactly my problem as I am experiencing the same symptoms as your customer. I am excited to run these tests myself. Thank you so much for making the process so easy to understand!
Just happen to be having electrical issues and thought id check your videos. Haven't watched any in awhile and i'm realizing that I miss your content, and wish you were still making regular videos. I understand your working hard taking care of business.... just saying.....
I dig your videos.. If school teacher's were more like your chill. Down to earth i bet more kids would stay in school...I've learned alot from your videos...thanks
So my 2008 fat bob doesn't die, I just noticed recently that after riding the idle stays at around 2000, also powervision is showing 17/18volts at 3500rpm. And I got codes, P0563, B0563, B1006, B1007. If its hitting voltage that high does that automatically rule out the stator since it IS charging, just real high.
How about a video explaining why people hear the noise coming from the front of the engine going down the road on a heritage or other 2018 models with the 107. I hear the same racket out of mine. Thanks john, like the videos you put out for us.
Ugh...I've watched all your videos, commented a few teams, this one gets a comical rant. I work for a company that designs and manufactures cranking motors (or starters if you don't want to get technical) and alternators (you know, those advanced technological machines that combine stators, rectifier and regulators). Now I'll blow your mind, we're even developing a "starter-generator", but I'm not supposed to talk about that. Anyhow, last thing I wanted to do today, was come home and watch one of my favorite TH-camrs teaching me and talking about my 8-430. Too bad you couldn't have put up a spoiler alert or something. LOL. Aside from that, great video and you did well talking about the stator, regulator and rectifier. I will add one side note for you, a bad stator can cause intermittent charging issues, but it is rare. Basically comes down to technical stuff like air gap, dust build up, humidity/moisture ingress and such, that effects the "voodoo shit" that happens inside the electromagnetic field, causing low voltage at intermittent rates. I'm a mechanical guy tho, so I can't really explain it, nor do I want to whem I'm off the clock. Kinda like getting a phone call from a stranger for free advice while you're being paid to do actual work. oh well, as always man, thanks for the Wednesday entertainment. Besides coming home to kiss my sweets and see my baby, or a Friday payday, your videos are something I look forward to. 👍🖒
I have a 1998 1200 sporster. That has this issue. I want to check one more thing first. Where does the rectifier canexts to the bike to charge. I am not sure if the old owner wired it wrong.
You make this "Stuff" fun and for me, I can follow where you're going with "Things". Thank you John you make my 99 RKC safe and fun to ride! Kitty Hawk, NC.
Another good test to see how well the battery holds up while starting is to use a meter with a MIN function. The meter will record the minimum voltage and display that. If the voltage drops too low (approx. 9v) the battery or lose connections are suspect.
I'm having issues with brake light not turning off. Issue started when i replaced my grips. I have red warning light on on the speedometer. I have 14 Sportster 1200t superlow.
Hey man, ever think about doing a time lapse from a typical busy day at the shop? I mean I would watch it. But than again I shattered my ankle and got lots of time. Gone thru all your clips like twice haha.
Hey John,that was cool,I had a rough idea about electrical problems,but now I have a better understanding of charging problems thanks John,👍😃....looking forward to the next vlog.
My 2000 dyna started smelling like rotten eggs and the battery was whistling. I suppose the ol rectifier could be overcharging?? I do like that multimeter also. Think I’ll get one 👌🏻🇺🇸
To recap: I have a 1983 FXWG, if the battery voltage is good, the bike is charging and the stator is not grounding out then it's most likely the voltage regulator (or wiring in between), correct?
I like your Videos Man. It is right to the point, with a lot of Bull in between. Very Old school Biker here, Been there done that many times over. How ever Love the new Voltage Tester, you've brought to my and your viewer attention. Thanks Maxwell, Love Ya Man. Keep your rubber (tires) were they belongs.
my reading is 12.8v on the bat. turned the Run button and drops to 12.0v.... turn the engine and gave me 10v and then back to 12.4v... but when I rev the engine, the battery's voltage wont go up(voltmeter hookdup). And If I ride for 5mins the battery icon flashes. after 30 mins ride the bike shutsdown and battery is 7volts. 2016 XL1200c
I have a 2014 street glide special with aftermarket led’s, headlight, dirty air ride, and digital pressure gauge . I’d like to upgrade to the stage 3 Rockford fosgate sound system. My question is, how will I know if I need to upgrade my charging system before I make this big sound system purchase?
If the test results for the stator don’t match the specs in the electrical manual, you have to replace the stator. Once the stator is replaced, you have to recheck charging at the battery to confirm the regulator is working. A lot of guys will replace the regulator when they replace the stator. The regulator seems to go shortly after quite often.
Your videos are amazing. I used this to diagnose my Nightster and have narrowed it down to the voltage regulator. Im getting B1006 and P0562 codes and am randomly having my battery and check engine lights come on and go off. Fingers crossed that fixes it.
After 2 years/2 batteries, replacement of about every relay and fuse, and keeping my rides short enough to have a charge, I finally watched this video, replaced my regulator/rectifier and have resolved my issue! John, You're the man! appreciate you brother!
❤
Miss you, John. Hope you and your business are doing well and that you will return to providing some of the best HD content on the Tube!!!
You asked why people ask questions on fb. I can tell you part of that reason. I know so little about motorcycles and cars, and Harley says they have a bike for every budget; the problem is, they don't have maintenance for every budget. Love my Harley, but damn, maintenance labor fees are expensive! So I have to learn someway and asking the question on fb usually gets me in the right direction. Then to come here and find an outstanding video like this is awesome. So I do thank you for getting me that much closer to attempting this fix myself. No way I can afford to take the bike a dealer and get it fixed in the near future, but I really want to go riding again. Hopefully, after watching this series of videos I'll be able to get this bike fixed with the just cost of a couple of parts, which is bad enough.
This is the most thorough video on the subject I’ve found. It confirms my belief that I need a new regulator for my Dyna as it’s fried two brand new batteries. Thanks! Subscribed!
Nice diagnostic. I like how you broke everything down and made it easy to understand 😅👍🏽
Dude, your videos have helped me again. I was going to upgrade to a 50amp 3 phase for my 96 FLHR. Because my bike wouldn't keep up with the stereo (bag and fairing speakers) just replaced the battery and checked the charging and it was at 14.2. I actually came to see if you would show amperage output in the video. Checked it again after a 50miles, I was at 12.9 I assumed it was the regulator. But still checked. You probably saved me $400.
Wow!! Great presentation. One of the few techs who know their craft and can explain it without using any of the seven words that can't be used on TV.
Awesome thank you I needed this. I work in the semi truck industry. I recently inherited my dad's 1995 Dyna, he passed away a few months ago but told to take it and ride it, so if course it's pre-diagnostic computer. It had to be jumped every time in order to start it. Tested battery voltage sitting, it's good. Tested while cranking and it plummeted down to like 6 or something I can't remember. Got it running and tested at the battery terminals, idle was only getting like 4-6 v, bringing up to around 2000-2500 brought it up to around 13-14 v. So I've been trying to think what it is, I have a new battery to install and test this weekend.
I had the same wires it's your magnet connections, they also get dirt and other debris stuck in them that u will never be able to get out. it's the same reason you're getting .5 on your ohm test. I love ur videos keep up the greatness.
This video is perfect. I actually had a problem with my 14 sportster where out of no where while riding one day my lights dimmed way down and kept drying at idle. I knew it was the regulator but I wasn't confident in my diagnosing. Took it to my dealer and sure enough it was the regulator. Worst part was they didn't have it in stock and had to wait 7 days for the part to come in.
most folks just guess, then an extra couple hundred later, they actually get it fixed! At least you didn't waste any money!
02 Ultra suddenly developed a ce light on a ride.
I was on a highway that had limited exits at the time.
But, when I noticed the voltage meter dropping slowly with the first available exit and I knew it was time to turn around.
Home was three overpasses and a tunnel away inside of 30 miles while riding two up.
Got to within three driveways home before she gave up the ghost.
Did the voltage tests and a couple grounding tests and figured it was the VR.
While on the batt. charge I called around and found a VR 120 miles round trip and by the time it was installed the battery was good to go, pressed the go button and voila away she went.
Great learning/explanation videos.
What I’ve seen too is. The magnets crack or come unglued from the cover.
Speaking of covers. The splines also blow through and cause intermittent charging.
Good share dude!
Larry
I purchased the same exact meter about 2 years ago but didn’t understand how to use it. This definitely helped!!
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time and creating this educational content. You are my GO to channel for all my HD needs.
I was checking out your nice multimeter. It appear to be very similar to my fluke 27/fm with some modern upgrades.
My RK classic would not start after leaving the bike with the lights for several minutes. Since the bike died at my friend's house, I was able to get a quick jump using cable batteries and a car. When I got home I fully charged the battery using my trickle charger. Then I proceeded to test it using the multimeter and the old school testing methods. The results were 12.8v at full charge then it dropped to 7.3v when cranking the engine. Furthermore, I purchased a viking digital battery tester and the tester confirmed the battery test results where correct. Both multimeter and battery tester gave me the results of a bad battery. Just for kicks, after replacing the battery I took the old battery and re tested it on my bench, the battery showed 100 percent charged and in good condition. Actually, the numbers were better in this American Made Battery than the NEW Chinese one. I will re test both batteries the new one connected and the old one not connected. I truly hope that I am back to square one with a new battery.
Any feedback will most appreciated.
I found this about a year behind everyone else, but I'm a subscriber now...thanks a million, very helpful!
Hope you like the coffee. Thank You for the honourable mention. You may have seen the movie but either way it’s awesome so if you already have it, feel free to regift it. Looking forward to your next video. After that comment about the crappy day video (from David Garino below) my wife enlightened me cuz I hadn’t seen it yet. Wow that was disturbing and now I’m scarred for life !!!
Had a voltage regulator go bad on my 12 Wide Glide. Noticed it first riding at night. The lights would get extremely bright for a few seconds then go back to normal. I learned that HD had a recall out on voltage regulators for 2012 Wide Glide. Contacted my dealer and they said bring it in. Took it in and they said that it wasn’t under recall and nothing wrong with it. A week later the bike shut off with no power because it quit charging. Checked the Ohms thru the voltage regulator and found it to be the culprit. Just seemed fishy that it was bad and wasn’t covered under the recall? Good video!
I love how you break things down and explain how things work and the way the operate as a system. I’m a new subscriber for sure. Good work my man.
The most in-depth explanation of the situation I found on the tube thanks very much.
Good video man.... One other cause for the stater to become grounded to the case is if the magnets break and chunks of them get wedged between the case and stater windings..... Had this issue on my old 1998 Titan......
John I got a 2016 street glide 4th owner it has a new battery and starter I ride for an hour or so stop to get a drink and it wont restart if I let it sit for about 45 min to an hour it cranks right up. Had it to 3 shops still not fixed . Thanx Dave R in Tennersee
Good job John.
I’m shade tree, but love to wrench on my scoot.
Your videos are perfect for the non pro mech.
You described perfectly why my 2012 Limited looses voltage while riding. Easy Peasy to understand Video
good video but What about doing the diode test?
Nice V&H's short shots, great video, it is good to understand how all the parts of the bike work.
I have wide glide, had a stage 1 done, those short shots more free flowing air box and ecm to
put more gas into the engine, nice and throaty.
Thanks for showing the older full-phase system; most only show testing for newer 3-phase.
John, you totally helped me diagnose a bad stator, sure enough opened the primary and was burnt. Thanks boss
You are a hard working guy. thanks for taking the time to share your expertise for sure. Very good explanation on how the charging system works. bet most did not know there was an AC component even involved. again good job.
Thanks man!
Thank you brother!!! After watching a plethora of these vids, finally someone explained in laymen terms. Did the necessary checks, new stator it is!! Thanks again.
Glad to have found this video, thanks for uploading. Obviously I am have battery problems to even be here.
So far I have just blown NEW battery #2, my old Harley legit battery that has been in the bike for about 4 years was starting to die, as in, would fully charge it on a battery charger & get a days riding out of it, park it for the night then DEAD in the morning. So I bought a brand new cheap chinese battery, it had a picture of a Harley on the box & it was a 20L which is specs for my 2011 FXDF Fat Bob, what could go wrong & if anything it had a 12 mth warranty. 2 days worth of riding & I stopped at a store grabbed my stuff jumped back on the bike hit the starter & heard a loud CRACK and the dash went black. Lucky for that warranty.
Battery 2, which I then had a autoelec check the charging & new battery, which all came up as per specs, 12+ volts motor off, 14 volts running, he also check the battery drain while the bike was sitting by putting a clamp around the negative wire (to which there was a small draw but as I have an alarm system which is always looking for a fob this was expected & it wasn't excessive. Again 2 days of riding and this time I was doing about 100km/hr (2000 revs) down the road & shut down, everything just stopped, no dash lights no nothing.
Battery 3, I am going to replace the regulator before installing this one.
Apologies for the log winded comment, just thought I'd throw it out there just in case there are any other suggestions to look for, but after watching your video I am pretty confident now to purchase a new regulator. In Australia I am looking at about $150 so fingers crossed.
I'm impressed with your knowledge!
Of course... I was blown away by a stripper once...
Anyway... shop manuals and electrical manual... checking into it for my 2012 Glide.
Thank you!
Another highly informative unprofessional video! Thanks man!
Keep em coming.
Excellent video. I really enjoyed it, and have subscribed.
I have had constant regulator problems with my 2012 FLSTF since I owned it. They had a bad batch apparently, and it was changed under warranty. Then if failed again, and I was out of warranty, so I replaced it.
Next, the Stator failed.
I have the books and did all the tests, no problem. When I pulled the stator out, 2 elements of the copper windings apparently fused, and fried everything.
Put in a NEW STATOR (Rigorously computer tested, of course!) and found it to be dead. Checked it and found it was a dead short on all 3 legs. Didn't think to do a ground test on the new stator before installing it, (It's brand new, right!?!?! What could go wrong?!?!) so it was a really nasty surprise to get the bike completely back together and still have a red charging light. That was on me, I should have checked it.
Got ANOTHER NEW STATOR, checked it good per my Harley Electrical Manual, and installed it. Happy road bliss for a few more months. Then another regulator died. Changed it, and a few months later, the new regulator died.
I basically have a SACKFULL of burnt out voltage regulators, some HD brand, and some aftermarket. NONE OF THEM HAVE STOOD UP TO USE.
Got another battery red light again a few months ago.
Checked the stator per the manual. (I now have made harnesses I can plug in and check everything in about 2 minutes)
The Stator checks good, for output, and resistance per the HD Electrical Book.
So, yet one more regulator.
Put it in on Friday afternoon, As soon as I fired up the bike, the red battery light was back on. This is 5 minutes before I am supposed to go to the movies.
I was so pissed, I just climbed on and started riding. It's not that long a trip, and I figured I could limp home on what was left of the battery, before the engine ECM shut down. I normally lose my ABS system as the first indication of low voltage.
The ride was fine. I'm still riding it. It's still charging OK.
WHAT COULD LEAVE THE RED LIGHT ON WHEN IT IS ACTUALLY CHARGING OK?
I have over 130K on my bike, and I've ridden it twice to Milwaukee and back for the Harley Celebrations. I RIDE. A LOT. Over really long distances. My longest single day was 879 miles, ending in Dodge City Kansas for that night.
I want to go on more trips, but I no longer trust my bike at all. Is there a way to restore it to top operating condition where I am not always waiting for an electrical failure?
NOTE: I am taking the bike in to the local HD Dealer (Old Pueblo HD in Tucson) and going to ask them for a full diagnosis of my charging system, on Tuesday after Labor Day.
But I would like some knowledge before I do that and they tell me to change the stator and regulator again.
Sorry to say, but I have spent MORE on voltage regulators and stators ALONE, than I have spent in TOTAL over the years on my 1979 Yamaha XS11000. I have had to change one wire, and some light bulbs on that over the years. That has been the sum total of my problems with the Yamaha.
God, I wish the engineers at HD would pull their heads out of their asses and design stuff that works, AND LASTS more than a year.
like this video. my voltage regulator stopped working, lucky for my its replaced under warranty, still cost me 400 bucks to get towed of the freeway on a Sunday night, and i've just bought a mastech MS8268 form amazon,, I believe what caused the part to fail was Id riden through a heavy rain storm the day before causing a ingress of moisture, I had a illuminated red warning light on my speedo, the regulators not in a ideal place on a heritage M8 behined the front wheel,
J M been watchin your vids a while and finally subscribed with this one as having a quality multi tester is a MUST for any level of mechanic and I agree you found a way above average unit..Am in ATL and work only on pre 1984 scooters,the last 40 years as a career machinist,always have a couple for sale,and build /ride nothing but old school choppers and Ford trucks..Am currently looking for a post 55 genny bottom end to get the word out.. I got a place in Fla too ,so I'll stop in sometime...Folks take it from John and myself,the key to making a small battery last is maintenance... I've had 6 volt units last many seasons. Theres no need to spend $300 on lithium ion. The regular SLA AGM I recommend and install ,some are under $50 and all under 100 depending on model with a 18 month replacement warranty.. Add this milli tester to your box whether you're old school like me or not, you;ll be glad you did..
Wow..... I've been checking TH-cam for this exact issue on my nightster, came to your channel first a couple weeks ago but found nothing really to help my cause then I see this vid today! Very thorough and easy to follow..... I think I'll be picking up one of those manuals for sure now!
Awesome, glad you found it!
Ok, normally, I get annoyed by your videos, but I have to give you the nod here. Great job!! Great explanations and visual. Job well done. Keep up the good work.
Hey john. Got a 2015 street glide that’s been through multiple batteries. 2 H-D and a Napa. Napa one lasted 2 months. No battery or check engine lights but voltage gauge on dash jumps around. Did all your checks and everything checks out. Think I should just go for the regulator and hope it fixes the problem.
I've got an 07 XL1200 Sportster. The start often has a slight lag, as if the battery is weak. The battery checks out good, and reads over 14 volts when running. Then I go to start it and it partially turns over and starts clicking. When I put the trickle on it, it starts like it's fresh. Ride it around the block, and it goes back to acting like a weak battery, clicking. I put an ohm meter on the stator lead and get 0.0
Tim Horton was a NHL defensemen that was and is loved by many and played up to an old age in hockey standards. He played for Toronto and then the Buffalo Sabres. He died in a horrific car crash on the QEW ( didn’t want to take the team bus) on his way back to Buffalo after a game against the Maple leafs in Toronto, he was in a car that was bought for him in a effort to get him to sign with the Sabres by Punch Imlach the GM for the Sabres. That was a very sad day I will never forget, His coffee is by far one of the best coffees on the market.
Wow. That’s crazy. Thanks for filling me in. I just figured he was some old dude that started a coffee shop.
Thank you for the videos they are very informative and being 100 miles from the nearest dealer I need to learn as much as I can.
I just did the stator on my bike. Found missing magnets on the rotor but the stator tested find. Replaced it anyways and now shes charging like a champ! Great videos, keep up the good work. 👍👍👍
clownpuncher7070 where were the missing magnets?
Alejandro Marquinez I'm assuming they got ground up in the primary. When I drained the fluid I only found a few small pieces metal flakes nothing else but the fluid was really nasty.
That’s usually what happens. Your fluid was probably almost like a paste
By the way, great video. Electrical is in my opinion one of the hardest issues to trouble shoot especially if it is intermittent. Always so many variables.
Just started following you a few days ago, so far, I'm very impressed and think your videos are very informative...
Riding down the road and the Volt metering Gauge started moving South to 8v....made it to my garage shut her down...wouldn't start...checked batt read 10v...charged all started...did your test...stator to ground Not Grounded...then phase to phase was 2ohms....probably the R&R? I did not do the pulled fuse test, yet...ran out time.
Hey John, Just watched this video and it describes the exact problem along with the code PO562 have been chasing for about 3 months on my 13 883. Thanks!
Have a 2002 Softail springer. The speedo keeps dropping off and the check engine like comes on for a min. Only really does it when getting into higher rpm. Also lights dim when happens. Think it’s the regulator?
That moment at 10:05 when your lunch sack lands standing up....coolness level just jumped a notch.Good video as usual.EDIT: Let's see a video where you troubleshoot LIMP MODE.No,not that one,the other one, where your engine light comes on,the bike won't go over 20 mph and you get these two codes P1511 & P2135.
Thanks John. Just changed my regulator. Tried the diode test on the new one but didn't work. Old one failed (2011). Same part #, but new has an A. Upgraded maybe.
Yea a variation of the original part number. Could be significant change, could be minor. We never know. We just know it’s different than original.
I wish I had bought this meter when I originally watched this video! This thing has DOUBLED in price!
Great going. I don't like having issues with my harley. It's becoming a challenging machine. I measured it all and I conclude that my stator is making ground. I measure a resistance from both the stator connector pin to ground. Instead of 0.L i get 4.00 :)
I have a 2015 Roadking Can you show how to do a clutch adjustment ? And whats the time it takes to adjust my clutch? Thanks and enjoy your videos
Thanks for the info. After replacing the voltage regulator/Rectifier many times. I upgraded my electric system. Now no problems.
How did you upgrade?
New stator?
New voltage regulator/rectifier?
New wiring harness?
@@fernominal my old mechanic (R.I.P.) put in new stator and regulator/Rectifier. Went from 22 to 30 amp. Accel makes the kit.
@@arthurleino
Great to hear your ride is running good now!
I found a Mosfet Voltage regulator/Rectifier for my 08 Sportster Nightster 1200 on the net for $50 bucks, and will be getting it soon! My stator is okay, so I'll only be installing the (easy to replace) part I mentioned. The Mosfet (brand of a company that is known for audio amplifiers, the part has a bigger heat sink, or fins to run cooler, and last longer, by virtue of a better type switch built in it, than regular voltage regulator/rectifiers!)
Ride to live
Live to ride!!
As a mechanic, (aircraft) I appreciate your taking the time to explain how the parts work. It is much easier to diagnosis electrical issues on my Electra glide when the how it works is provided.
Love the video because I'm actually having the same problem. Thanks for the advice 😀
Glad it may be able to help you out!
I have the same code and it won’t charge riding down the road as well. I’m glad I now have a video on how to check it. thanks man
@@TheHarleyTech I have an 88 FXR. At 2k rpm I get roughly 35VAC. No charging at battery. Sounds like a reg/rec but should the stator be higher?
Told you all about that meter couple of years ago when I went to v-rod school instructor found it at harbor freight also what happens when checking the charging system and all your readings are good but still is not properly working my last check after doing the AC test when the engine is hot is to remove the primary cover and look for smoke don't forget about older bikes when the magnets break loose and come together to give you a bad reading I could go on
The OG at electrical checks! There will be future charging videos, for sure. I shot this one “on lunch” while also on the clock, however that works! I’m glad you reminded me of how I learned about the meter. I think I might have give Sean credit, I knew someone came back from school with some good info. I’ll have to correct myself in the future! I’ve been wondering how you are, hope all is well!
I got my bike at the end of last year's season, basically brand new with 160km on it. I didn't ride it too much, and by the end of the season, I had only reached 500 km. It started every time, even after 2 or 3 weeks of not using it in cold weather. Then, during the winter time, I stored the bike in my shed. I removed the battery and put it in my closet.
This season, I charged the battery, and everything was good. I ride it every weekend, but for the past 2 or 3 weeks, I've been having trouble starting the bike. It remains unused for a week, and on Saturdays, I ride without any issues, but on Sundays, the bike won't start. This has happened three times. The last time, the voltmeter marked 12.28v, which wasn't enough to start the bike. Then, I charged the battery, and after 3 or 4 hours, it was charged up to 12.8v, and it started with no problems.
So, I wonder what could be the problem. I have a jump starter, which I use in emergencies to avoid spoiling my weekend. However, using the jump starter regularly is not ideal. Since the bike is still new, I don't know where the problem could be.
The bike is a 2022 Sportster 48, thank you in advance.
Hope to get a sportster in July only had Honda's
As I understood it, you could put meter on ohms put red+ on a.c. lead on RR and - blk lead on Bat+
and get a reading as the RR would see this as the +side of the a.c. wave. if reversed u get nothing.
Great vid! It's a lot like being a CSI. I figured out why I wasn't getting spark on my old Honda using my multimeter and a lot of patience.
It is pretty satisfying figuring it out! Even though it can be a bit aggravating during the process.
Great video as always! I've seen in the past (very rarely) thermol break down in the stator causing intermittent charging. pain to diagnose. Happens it more on the ignition side loosing spark
Excellent video, lots of good info to help go through the electrical system process.
Cool video, thank you! I have a 2012 FLHTCU and the engine light and battery light came on the other day. It has the P0562 code. The battery is less than 2 years old and I keep it on a trickle charge. The volt gage showed 13 and when revved went up to about 15. I'm going to use your tips to check things with a multimeter but I'm leaning to it being a regulator issue.
Thanks. Been having issues with my 97 ultra.Gonna try and diagnose it my self
John your video was very timely. I was having charging issue you help me fix it.
That’s awesome! Glad it helped!
Kind of agree with your choice of multimeters, but, there is always a but, your choice of meters should compliment your choice of wrenches. Best meter out there is a Fluke. It's internally protected. It's easy to forget to switch the meter to it's correct setting while performing your test. As an electrician, I work on all sorts of systems, 600 vac, 12vdc, continuity, amp draw, capacitor testing, diodes, etc. The Fluke meter is the best. Very forgiving.
Wow fantastic video and just what I needed! I am thinking this might be exactly my problem as I am experiencing the same symptoms as your customer. I am excited to run these tests myself. Thank you so much for making the process so easy to understand!
Just happen to be having electrical issues and thought id check your videos. Haven't watched any in awhile and i'm realizing that I miss your content, and wish you were still making regular videos. I understand your working hard taking care of business.... just saying.....
I dig your videos.. If school teacher's were more like your chill. Down to earth i bet more kids would stay in school...I've learned alot from your videos...thanks
I hated school. Then I grew up and wanted to be a teacher. Weird, huh?
Thanks for the kind words!
So my 2008 fat bob doesn't die, I just noticed recently that after riding the idle stays at around 2000, also powervision is showing 17/18volts at 3500rpm. And I got codes, P0563, B0563, B1006, B1007. If its hitting voltage that high does that automatically rule out the stator since it IS charging, just real high.
Thanks for the info on the meter I am checking out my 84 FXR now it has been up dated
But it is not charging thanks I will check it out
What would be a good stator replacement for a shovel
How about a video explaining why people hear the noise coming from the front of the engine going down the road on a heritage or other 2018 models with the 107. I hear the same racket out of mine. Thanks john, like the videos you put out for us.
Love the videos dude. Just changed my battery but now I know how to test all the other components.
Ugh...I've watched all your videos, commented a few teams, this one gets a comical rant. I work for a company that designs and manufactures cranking motors (or starters if you don't want to get technical) and alternators (you know, those advanced technological machines that combine stators, rectifier and regulators). Now I'll blow your mind, we're even developing a "starter-generator", but I'm not supposed to talk about that. Anyhow, last thing I wanted to do today, was come home and watch one of my favorite TH-camrs teaching me and talking about my 8-430. Too bad you couldn't have put up a spoiler alert or something. LOL. Aside from that, great video and you did well talking about the stator, regulator and rectifier. I will add one side note for you, a bad stator can cause intermittent charging issues, but it is rare. Basically comes down to technical stuff like air gap, dust build up, humidity/moisture ingress and such, that effects the "voodoo shit" that happens inside the electromagnetic field, causing low voltage at intermittent rates. I'm a mechanical guy tho, so I can't really explain it, nor do I want to whem I'm off the clock. Kinda like getting a phone call from a stranger for free advice while you're being paid to do actual work. oh well, as always man, thanks for the Wednesday entertainment. Besides coming home to kiss my sweets and see my baby, or a Friday payday, your videos are something I look forward to. 👍🖒
Hell Yeah, I own a Sporty XL883C / 2005 - Cool videos. Just now I have fixed a brake light problem. (Not a bulb problem....)
My bike has died twice on the highway while I was riding. Thanks so much for this video your the man.
I have a 1998 1200 sporster. That has this issue. I want to check one more thing first. Where does the rectifier canexts to the bike to charge. I am not sure if the old owner wired it wrong.
You make this "Stuff" fun and for me, I can follow where you're going with "Things". Thank you John you make my 99 RKC safe and fun to ride! Kitty Hawk, NC.
Well done, your doing a great service! Thanks and it looks like your employer is a trusted and professional shop!
Great info. Helped me diagnose that I have a bad stator in my Ultra Classic! Yay😒
Another good test to see how well the battery holds up while starting is to use a meter with a MIN function. The meter will record the minimum voltage and display that. If the voltage drops too low (approx. 9v) the battery or lose connections are suspect.
I'm having issues with brake light not turning off. Issue started when i replaced my grips. I have red warning light on on the speedometer. I have 14 Sportster 1200t superlow.
Excellent show and tell and explanation as to how it works, thanks
Hey man, ever think about doing a time lapse from a typical busy day at the shop? I mean I would watch it. But than again I shattered my ankle and got lots of time. Gone thru all your clips like twice haha.
Hey John,that was cool,I had a rough idea about electrical problems,but now I have a better understanding of charging problems thanks John,👍😃....looking forward to the next vlog.
Thanks Paul, glad it helped ya out!
My 2000 dyna started smelling like rotten eggs and the battery was whistling. I suppose the ol rectifier could be overcharging?? I do like that multimeter also. Think I’ll get one 👌🏻🇺🇸
Keep up the good work. Always learning something from you.
Good!
Can you make a video on the regulator? Please
To recap: I have a 1983 FXWG, if the battery voltage is good, the bike is charging and the stator is not grounding out then it's most likely the voltage regulator (or wiring in between), correct?
I like your Videos Man. It is right to the point, with a lot of Bull in between. Very Old school Biker here, Been there done that many times over. How ever Love the new Voltage Tester, you've brought to my and your viewer attention. Thanks Maxwell, Love Ya Man. Keep your rubber (tires) were they belongs.
How does anyone own a Harley and not subscribe to this guy
Had to replace my regulator last year. Those Sportster regulators are always on back order
my reading is 12.8v on the bat. turned the Run button and drops to 12.0v.... turn the engine and gave me 10v and then back to 12.4v... but when I rev the engine, the battery's voltage wont go up(voltmeter hookdup). And If I ride for 5mins the battery icon flashes. after 30 mins ride the bike shutsdown and battery is 7volts. 2016 XL1200c
I have a 2014 street glide special with aftermarket led’s, headlight, dirty air ride, and digital pressure gauge . I’d like to upgrade to the stage 3 Rockford fosgate sound system. My question is, how will I know if I need to upgrade my charging system before I make this big sound system purchase?
Great info. Thanks! I appreciate the charging system overview. You don't always need expensive tools to check diagnostics.👍
You almost never NEED expensive tools to diag...but KNOWLEDGE is priceless!
When would you need to replace a stator, or is the regulator the most common failure? Thanks for a great video.
If the test results for the stator don’t match the specs in the electrical manual, you have to replace the stator. Once the stator is replaced, you have to recheck charging at the battery to confirm the regulator is working. A lot of guys will replace the regulator when they replace the stator. The regulator seems to go shortly after quite often.
Would a short in the regulator cause fuel gauge and voltage meter to jump around? Voltage at battery running is 12.49 now.
Your videos are amazing. I used this to diagnose my Nightster and have narrowed it down to the voltage regulator. Im getting B1006 and P0562 codes and am randomly having my battery and check engine lights come on and go off. Fingers crossed that fixes it.
I wish you would have made this 5 years ago when I had to figure this out on my own. Great video.