Using sprues and sprue pieces to mount subassemblies for painting is a fantastic idea! 👍🏼 that definitely goes into the “how come I didn’t think of that 🤔” category.
I am trying this technique of Sub assembly out soon. Instead of your Super Glue, I can get my hands on Gorilla Super Glue Gel "Impact tough formula". Can I use these if I want to snap parts off the holder?
I am new to the hobby but have built a few WWII tank models previously. For clippers I can't recommend God Hands enough. They are crazy expensive for a pair of clippers but if you are into any hobby where you are cutting sprus, they are amazing! They cut through a spru like butter and worth the investment.
@@TableTopReadyTH-cam btw what those small arrows like triangles on the sprews mean? It's like each print is held by 4 small resin arms and one of the four in each print has this arrow on it.
Awesome video! I have just recently gotten back into 40K after a ten year hiatus. Bought myself some new orks in addition to all the unpainted ones I still have. Gonna be a BIG project but also loads of fun, and videos like this one are great for getting going again!
welcome back to the hobby :D I'm currently working on getting my orks painted which I've been working on for about 5 years now haha I never expect to finish :P always more to paint. I'm glad my content has been helping you.
there’s so many ways to paint, and so many color schemes, I find your recommendations are a great template to start finding a hobbyist’s own style. I started back in February. And now I’m all in to 10E and Kill Team. When I first started taking interest I had little to no confidence in my abilities. Now myself and 2 of my sons are hobbying. 🫡
you know what you know, you know? ha it really helps but you can still paint your intercessors fully assembled, its just gonna be a bit frustrating at times. good luck
The generic building block game tip is genius. I have often watched your videos and thought "those wooden blocks are a great idea but I don't have the time or tools to cut wood up that precisely" 🤣
Best reason for cutting off the sprues away from the part leaving a big chunk to go back in and chop off, is concentrating on each chunk separately so no little bits are missed When I first began, I’d cut flush to the part and then go round scraping and tidying, then upon assembling or at painting stage realised there would always be a few I didn’t go back in and scrape and clean If you do it the way in this video, concentrate on one at a time and you’ll never miss any. So chop the first one off, scrape, clean and sand… then move onto the next and repeat till the part is then finished
Great video, as always 😁 I think you could mention when NOT to prime, for example, when it's high humidity spray may be "grainy", I know this from my own experience 😬
@TableTopReadyTH-cam I have a small toy shop close to where I live. I'll check what they have to offer before checking Amazon. I like to support local shops if I can.
Nope. The world doesn’t use SEM to view everything so there’s absolutely no requirement to. A quick check on here would find many myth busting tests to dispel this
That's only necessary for Resin casts. He's working with plastic and the plastic refinement process is far better nowadays. It no longer causes those bubbling issues and plastic molded sprues don't need it as they don't use any kind of release agent.
as its already been said. citedla plastics don't need to been cleaned. But its totally upto you. if you want to clean them first then go for it :D it's just not essential to paint them
Fantastic vids man. I am using your color scheme to paint my Orks. Using your Deathskull scheme but will have pink clan colors instead of blue ! WAAGHHH
I've tried the gluing to sprue technique a few times, every single time the arm with the gun just snaps off at the wrong place! 4th try and still didnt work. How do you deglue them? Tried putting them in the freezer.
When assembling, would not pasting a plastic part over a primed area create a problem since it is being pasted over paint instead of the other plastic? Wouldn't it separate easily?
What tool would be best to scrape away paint in areas that are more hard to get too? I am planning to add grenades, pouches and pistols. I have had to use the tip of my exacto blade but it dont work to well.
if you wanted to, those smaller pieces can be glood before painting. but if you did want to paint them seperatly then a needle file is always useful. the palstic glue will still work even if there is paint there, it's just better to remove it. super glue is also an option
sanding sponge is great but you have to be careful because they will soften alot of your details as well. I wouldn't say they're better, i prefer needle files still but I do use both
im pretty new to war hammer, im 14 . ive painted 2 space marines so for and they turned out excellent from the war hammer ( infernus marines +paints pack) they turned out like the box and i was so flabbergasted i thought it would like terrible. I had trouble with painting an necron but i did the base coat and i could still see grey . I have an eye for detail so any slight tiny mistake i have to fix it but sometimes im not pleased with my model after its fully painted as i want it to be accurate and perfect . Any advice for this? 😎
your next going to have perfect miniatures, learn to love painting for what it is and get creative. if you put too much expectation on the outcome, it will take longer to improve and get beter. make mistakes and figure stuff out. i started when I was your age and its now 25 years later. theres no rush
now this is the good one, i never liked the paperclip method because it's one time use, i prefer glue tack the damn thing and spray it. if there is a part where you want to glue it instead just glue tack it, then once ready for proper assembly just remove the glue tack
If you're particularly anal about leftover sprue and having your minis look as clean as possible then the metal file might be too rough. For me the best tool for cleaning sprue marks is fine grit sandpaper or a sandpaper file. Something like 800 - 2000 grit will do nicely. Anything less might leave unwanted scratches that will standout after you paint. That's just me though.
Using sprues and sprue pieces to mount subassemblies for painting is a fantastic idea! 👍🏼 that definitely goes into the “how come I didn’t think of that 🤔” category.
I don't know why I didn't think of it earlier eaither. I think I only started doing it because I didn't want to go out and buy paper clips :P
I am trying this technique of Sub assembly out soon. Instead of your Super Glue, I can get my hands on Gorilla Super Glue Gel "Impact tough formula". Can I use these if I want to snap parts off the holder?
A warm, accessible welcome for people new to the hobby. Wonderful work as always.
thank you :D I apreciate the comment
Using sprue pieces and jenga blocks is legitimately so genius it winded me.
Just tried using my sprue for sub assembly and it works so well!! Your videos are always a go to when I start a new project
I'm glad it worked for you haha its nice to know I'm not wired and doing random things that don't work.
I am new to the hobby but have built a few WWII tank models previously. For clippers I can't recommend God Hands enough. They are crazy expensive for a pair of clippers but if you are into any hobby where you are cutting sprus, they are amazing! They cut through a spru like butter and worth the investment.
Another interesting and easy to follow guide Michael. Great job as always
thank you for always commenting :D
As with previous videos, great clarity and full of useful tips. The Jenga blocks are pure genius!
Thank you :D
Something I’d add, is 2500 grit sand paper. It helps after cleaning up mould lines to smooth back out the surface
this is infact true. I tend to use sanding sticks when I have some :P
@@TableTopReadyTH-cam what kind/grit of sanding stick do you use in this video?
Quality , Practical channel, you are better than lots on YT. Bravo.
thank you, thats very kind of you and it means a lot :D
@@TableTopReadyTH-cam btw what those small arrows like triangles on the sprews mean? It's like each print is held by 4 small resin arms and one of the four in each print has this arrow on it.
I always love these videos you go into so much detail. I'd love to see you do a guide on painting Saint Celestine!
thank you I'm glad you enjoy my content :D. I have thought about doing celestine. Next year I want to do more characters so maybe then?
@@TableTopReadyTH-cam I’ll be sure to tune in! Your videos on painting sisters of battle have helped a lot!
Great video thank you - I’m trying to watch your entire catalog 😀
good luck :D
Awesome video! I have just recently gotten back into 40K after a ten year hiatus. Bought myself some new orks in addition to all the unpainted ones I still have. Gonna be a BIG project but also loads of fun, and videos like this one are great for getting going again!
welcome back to the hobby :D I'm currently working on getting my orks painted which I've been working on for about 5 years now haha I never expect to finish :P always more to paint. I'm glad my content has been helping you.
Morning after watching this and the sprue technique onto wood or cork etc has saved me time and hassle. Thanks man
I'm glad :D it really does make a difference
Thanks
Thank you so much for your donation, its very generouse of you. I'll be sure to give you a shout out in the next video :D
I recently discovered brush on primer for my miniatures so much safer then using a spry can.
I will definitely enjoy painting the librarian in terminator armour Michel i love your videos they are very useful
always greatful for the comments. thank you.
The jenga tip is brilliant! I've been thinking for ages what I can use to mount the sub assemblies.
An idea I borrowed from darren Latham
Such a helpful video. Thanks so much.
I'm glad. thank you :D
Your videos have helped me improve as a model painter
I'm glad :) Thats why I love making them
there’s so many ways to paint, and so many color schemes, I find your recommendations are a great template to start finding a hobbyist’s own style. I started back in February. And now I’m all in to 10E and Kill Team. When I first started taking interest I had little to no confidence in my abilities. Now myself and 2 of my sons are hobbying. 🫡
That’s fantastic 😁 I wish you all the best for you all
I really enjoy your videos, they are encouraging. Keep it up!
thank you :D Its nice to know my videos are you helping
Brilliant video and easy to follow, thank you!
I'm glad you liked the video :D thank you
When or will you make video about painting chaos space marines from the pateol box as they are on the box art?
I will and pretty soon. if not before the end of the year then very early next year :D
Great video. Now I'm looking at my fully assembled intercessors wondering why I didn't think to do this.
you know what you know, you know? ha it really helps but you can still paint your intercessors fully assembled, its just gonna be a bit frustrating at times. good luck
Yep, will be a lot of touching up to do!
The generic building block game tip is genius.
I have often watched your videos and thought "those wooden blocks are a great idea but I don't have the time or tools to cut wood up that precisely"
🤣
haha thats mental. I wonder how long it would take me to make my own blocks :P
Some excellent suggestions and tips here: wish I’d watched this one sooner
I'm glad you think so. atleast you've watched it now :D
Another great tutorial!!
Thank you :D
Best reason for cutting off the sprues away from the part leaving a big chunk to go back in and chop off, is concentrating on each chunk separately so no little bits are missed
When I first began, I’d cut flush to the part and then go round scraping and tidying, then upon assembling or at painting stage realised there would always be a few I didn’t go back in and scrape and clean
If you do it the way in this video, concentrate on one at a time and you’ll never miss any. So chop the first one off, scrape, clean and sand… then move onto the next and repeat till the part is then finished
good advice. I'm always missing areas. I tend to do one last cbeck once things are assembled before undercoating just in case :D
Great video, as always 😁 I think you could mention when NOT to prime, for example, when it's high humidity spray may be "grainy", I know this from my own experience 😬
that would have been a good idea haha. :P usually people ask and I'll answer in comments.
5:56 thank god I didn't get rid of my sprues. Now I have another use besides (eventually) turning them into sprue goo. I'll buy some wood as well
i got my blocks off amazon
@TableTopReadyTH-cam I have a small toy shop close to where I live. I'll check what they have to offer before checking Amazon. I like to support local shops if I can.
Thank you 😊
Really good this mate
Thank you. I'm glad you think so :)
Another brilliant video
:D thank you
Cool as always.
thank you
so you dont clean your sprues with warm water and soap to get the oils and separating agents off?
Nope. The world doesn’t use SEM to view everything so there’s absolutely no requirement to. A quick check on here would find many myth busting tests to dispel this
That's only necessary for Resin casts. He's working with plastic and the plastic refinement process is far better nowadays. It no longer causes those bubbling issues and plastic molded sprues don't need it as they don't use any kind of release agent.
as its already been said. citedla plastics don't need to been cleaned. But its totally upto you. if you want to clean them first then go for it :D it's just not essential to paint them
Fantastic vids man. I am using your color scheme to paint my Orks. Using your Deathskull scheme but will have pink clan colors instead of blue ! WAAGHHH
ooo that pink will go really nicely with the green :D good luck
How long would you say it typically takes you to cut/prep and assemble a single mini (such as a space marine, or a simpler one)
1 marine would probably take an hour to prep or a unit would take around 3-4 hours. that would inlcude undercoating
@@TableTopReadyTH-cam Gotcha, when you say undercoating are you saying priming or also doing base coats?
spraying
I've tried the gluing to sprue technique a few times, every single time the arm with the gun just snaps off at the wrong place! 4th try and still didnt work. How do you deglue them? Tried putting them in the freezer.
7:22 ?
how you write that mass that can stick plastick to plastick?
the brand name is blu tac or white tac. its the stciky putty you use to stick posters to walls. you can get off brand versions
What is a "glue tack"? At 7:20, I can''t make out what you say, sorry! Any help is appreciated
When assembling, would not pasting a plastic part over a primed area create a problem since it is being pasted over paint instead of the other plastic?
Wouldn't it separate easily?
This is true. I talk about it in this video. If your using plastic glue, you’ll need to scrape away paint from the contact area
What tool would be best to scrape away paint in areas that are more hard to get too?
I am planning to add grenades, pouches and pistols. I have had to use the tip of my exacto blade but it dont work to well.
if you wanted to, those smaller pieces can be glood before painting. but if you did want to paint them seperatly then a needle file is always useful. the palstic glue will still work even if there is paint there, it's just better to remove it. super glue is also an option
What about sanding sponge I heard they're better then metal files and get into tighter spaces
sanding sponge is great but you have to be careful because they will soften alot of your details as well. I wouldn't say they're better, i prefer needle files still but I do use both
Have you moved away from using paper clips for sun assembly’s?
I have yes. sprue is just more user friendly and straight forward
@@TableTopReadyTH-cam thanks man.
im pretty new to war hammer, im 14 . ive painted 2 space marines so for and they turned out excellent from the war hammer ( infernus marines +paints pack) they turned out like the box and i was so flabbergasted i thought it would like terrible. I had trouble with painting an necron but i did the base coat and i could still see grey . I have an eye for detail so any slight tiny mistake i have to fix it but sometimes im not pleased with my model after its fully painted as i want it to be accurate and perfect . Any advice for this? 😎
your next going to have perfect miniatures, learn to love painting for what it is and get creative. if you put too much expectation on the outcome, it will take longer to improve and get beter. make mistakes and figure stuff out. i started when I was your age and its now 25 years later. theres no rush
@@TableTopReadyTH-cam Thank you!
now this is the good one, i never liked the paperclip method because it's one time use, i prefer glue tack the damn thing and spray it. if there is a part where you want to glue it instead just glue tack it, then once ready for proper assembly just remove the glue tack
Paper clips annoyed me so I came up with this method which is so much better. 😁
What about brush on primer?
you can absolulet use brush on primers. I've not really any experaince with them though so make sure to do some research first :)
Please consider teaching how to paint the box set start collecting kharadron overlords 🎉
I'll hopefully be doing more Age of Sigmar tutorials in the new year :D
If you're particularly anal about leftover sprue and having your minis look as clean as possible then the metal file might be too rough. For me the best tool for cleaning sprue marks is fine grit sandpaper or a sandpaper file. Something like 800 - 2000 grit will do nicely. Anything less might leave unwanted scratches that will standout after you paint. That's just me though.