LOL... I typically buy a few of those kits, when I catch them on sale. So, at least I have a few spare parts, incase something launches into another dimension.
@@gabriellindig I too, have thought a sand blasting cabinet, or similar sealed box, (&/or a sterile white room?) would make a good place to assemble an AR lower and upper. I do use magnetic parts trays to corral my small parts, and catch loose ones. And it works nicely.
@@chrissewell1608 I think some people do it in large ziplock bags, that way the bag catches it. unless its perfectly facing you, in which case you know where it went anyways.
Although I agree that small parts are not created equal, there is one "fix in a pinch" that I have done, and that works. If you lose the buffer detent spring, the spring from a click style ink pen is nearly identical and works well in a pinch.
I just finished a build using a Brownell's Mil-Spec LPK (minus FCG & grip). Everything looked good, and fit right. I'm counting on you, so here's hoping it shoots and lasts!
As a career long auto mechanic it never ceased to amaze me how many high end auto owners chose to go with the cheapest possible parts found . But many once big brand names anymore are just that . A name . With firearms I choose O E from the maker .
Yeah I wish it were the same case with cars. It amazes me that cars that cost twice the amount of a Toyota is often less reliable. Can’t say the same with firearms overall.
Firearms are a bit different, most people don't buy from Armalite (also that's kind of dated going design going mil-spec). Then you have to remember mil-spec just means made by the lowest bidder. I know, technically it actually means that it meets the color specification, the pre-painted dimension unless otherwise stated, the material spec, and typically a substandard dimensional tolerance that particularly on the Armalite can still not function properly due to improper tolerance stacking (it also doesn't mean it functions well or properly, see a lot of military magazines). OEM also does not indicate good quality control (some people will mention Kel-Tec here, I haven't shot one, but its probably accurate), then compare that to nice competition grade Glock parts, you get better quality. Just like car parts, you can get much tighter tolerance parts, with superior materials, with superior finishes if you're willing to spend more than OEM (usually, sometimes its still cheaper).
Word of mouth and reputation are so important. I can't look at a spring or firing pin or extractor and tell the quality of the steel that went into it. Price isn't always an indicator of quality.
@@joshpittman8473 AO on budget, Colt, FN, on standard builds, and SOLGW for everything else. C158, mpi, hpt, No NiB or coatings, no KAC deviation from what has worked for decades. Always have a spare bolt, two sets of rings, FP, cam pin, FP retainer, ejector, extractor, and all the springs. Basically everything minus the carrier though it's cheaper just to buy another group and ditch the carrier. All of it fits in my grip and is g2g.
I already commented this on a different video, but could you guys do a Smith Busters on cleaning rods? Because there is a lot of contradictory information out there.
@@zanderw1199 I respectfully disagree. Try this experiment. Use your bore snake and then use a cleaning rod with a brush and some patches and you will see the boresnake did not get it as clean as the old school brush and Patch. I've tried this many many times.
@@zanderw1199 A fool and their money are soon parted. A bore snake is really only good for a final wipe down in my opinion. I will never give up my J Dewey cleaning supplies.
I bought the Brownells cleaning kit when I first got my AR. It was complete garbage. I don't know if it was made in china, but it might as well have been. Their opinion on things like this probably can't be trusted since they only seem to promote their own products or products they sell. J Dewey is the best product that I am aware of and they get rave reviews from everyone, but I don't think Brownells sells them. I currently only use J Dewey cleaning tools and if I buy a new rifle or pistol of a different caliber, I would buy J Dewey tools for those guns too. These are top notch products.
Holy smokes - I called SOLGW last week with a simple question and Mike answered the phone. I recognize his voice! FYI they test fire every BCG they sell. I am impressed.
I'm a Gunsmith an you guys have good info for anyone listening.. thank you! To Spec is good!! Man this world has gone mad, been struggling through this attack on our freedoms an supplies.. keep the faith and keep pushing for our freedoms 🇺🇸🇺🇸
THIS. I run this on every rifle with a Radian Talon safety & a Giesellie trigger (use to run the LaRue triggers, but they've had a lot of delays / backorders recently so I switched to Giesellie on al my newer builds).
Nick - I’m becoming an all around AP fan. Their enhanced 308 AR receivers and handguard combine for a rock solid system. However, I *really* like the SOLGW BCG.
@@sofloflow If you're in need of a new trigger I would check out Wilson Combat's TTU triggers. I used to run only Geissele SSA-E triggers in all my rifles. I bought the WC TTU two stage and man I haven't looked back. Better feel, cleaner break, and cheaper. WC uses a EDM machine, Geissele is still casting their triggers. I've never seen a trigger Geissele trigger break but I'd trust the EDM process far more than casting in this case. Either way, you can't go wrong with Geissele or WC.
A few years ago I purchased one of those Colt expanse rifles. Then preceded to replace everything in the rifle. Now I believe everything is BCM with the exception of the lower receiver, bolt catch and mag release. Cool thing since I was an early adopter I got one of the few Colt manufactured LE6920 lowers. (at least that's what the Colt rep said.)
This is the first Brownells video that I thought didn't go far enough. I wish you guys had given a list of parts kits that are good to go and ones that are not the best quality. Speaking in generalities really doesn't cut it here.
Like another reply said things can change so a hard list is probably best left off. From what I've found looking around the most good to go recommendations are SOLGW, Sionics, Forward Controls. Bigger names that I've heard recommended without issue are Colt, BCM, Geissele, ALG, DD, probably most you know that are trusted manufacturers. Aero and CMMG are generally highly regarded and I've not heard reports of any issues.
That is because they sell crap lpks themselves and don't want to lose the profit from marking them up to dam near what a real lpk costs. Colt, FN, and LMT are the best and would say that SOLGW is the closest Non-Military contract manufacturer available on the market for small parts and bolt carriers, which is why brownells chose to have him speak on this matter to boost consumer confidence.
Aero Precision makes excellent lower parts kits -- which I buy without the trigger control group, using a Geissele G2S. The billet trigger guard is excellent, if that isn't integral to the lower. Enormously high value for the price.
After watching this video the first time it really sparked my interest. After doing some extensive research I changed out the lower parts kits in all of my rifles with SOLGW lower parts kits some including the trigger. It cost me about $200 to do 3 guns and I can say they just seem to be of much better quality now. It’s a warm and fuzzy knowing I don’t have to worry about some MIM bolt catch snapping on me while I’m at the range. I also realized you can build an extremely high quality rifle on a budget. Get a standard PSA or Anderson lower for about $60 and fill it with quality parts.
Although I’m not a fan of SOL, I respect the message here, and greatly appreciate Brownells for continuing to produce quality videos that help the common man.
@@abolishtheatfandrepealthen6014 Some folks take offense to the co-owners (this guy, mike mihalski) significant DUI history and other criminal run ins with the law. Last DUI 2019 I think. Or maybe its just that he drinks from a Black Rifle Coffee mug. Who knows.
The last build I did was on a KP-15 I ordered through Brownells. Everything went together well, except I used an ALG ACT trigger I had on another rifle I was cannibalizing for parts which had the lighter hammer spring on it. When I took it out the first round fired, but then click. Everything cycled, but out of about 10 rounds only one or two rounds fired. I knew the ammo should be fine and it was dimpling the primer, but looked kind of weak, so I packed up for the day and picked up a stouter spring from one of my local shops since I lost the original and next time out, worked like a champ.
I bought a CMMG ,and it was real nice.Nice trigger,all good.I bought a no name parts kit from a local shop and the pins were harder to get in and the trigger was terrible.Im going to replace all the cheap parts .
First off, Sons of Liberty Gunworks makes FANTASTIC weapons, I am NOT debating that AT ALL. And yes, he is absolutely right, parts kits are not the same. However, I think its disingenuous to have this topic where you have a parts maker say "well yes, parts do matter" while having his product out on the table. At that point, it becomes advertising and takes a whack at the credibility of this series. Sorry, just an observation.
I like the big box in the background for additional advertising. I don't see a problem he knows his products are good and he doesn't mention the bad company that makes carp so sure he is pushing his brand but what if it works well go for it.
I think you're looking too much into it if it was an advertisement he wouldn't have mentioned another company BY NAME that's just as good as his... how many advertisements have you seen that mentioned other companies products doing just as well
CMMG OEM's a ton of parts for other manufacturers. They are one of the main manufactures of small parts kits all together if I'm not mistaken. I would choose them or another reputable companies parts kit rather than save 8 bucks like Mike said.
I bought a complete .300blk parts kit minus lower receiver from PSA a while back, and will never make a mistake like that again... I had to take a file and sandpaper to the upper reciever to get it to fit inside my lower.
huge difference!! for example, I just learned last night the small part that come with your extra items..use those.. detent pins springs etc. I learned last night, my Geissle bolt maritime will not work or fit with my LaRue Lower.. So now I am searching for a good bolt catch for my LaRue 556. my take down pins came with thier own springs and detents... so, i use those. I also notice the Geissle small parts - roll pins are very different than Aero pins.. huge.. you guys were right to make this video..now if i can only find a good recommend for my bolt catch...
The Phase 5 EBRv3 is nice. Strike Industries aren’t bad. Have both the regular and the extended. The EBRv3 replaced the SI extended catch because the bolt was slipping extremely easy. The regular SI catch is still on my other rig. My lowers are a Ruger-556 and a CMMG.
I have to say from examining a PSA AR-10, that they would be more truthful to change their brand to POS. I removed about a third of a safety detent spring from underneath the extractor claw as the extractor was not moving correctly when I was tearing it down. They also have a chamber tight enough that apparently on cold days the gun needs to be mortared to clear a round, and I think it might be having some issues with the hammer not being held correctly as it has had a few failures to fire which left no mark on the primer of the round. Oh, and the upper is malformed enough that it can't take an aftermarket dustcover, the dustcover it came with came bent to hell, and they took over a month to respond to the warranty claim with the proposed solution of "send us the whole rifle, we'll ship it back to you eventually"
Learned this lesson the hard way. I bought cheap parts kit and Had a really hard time with the pin that holds the bolt catch in place. I Beat the hell out of it And jacked up my lower in the process, and the pin still isn’t all the way through. I tend to be what some people might call a “just-as-gooder” I always consider the cost and the value of a product but when it comes to parts kits, just spend the extra few bucks for a good one, it’s not particularly expensive to begin with.
This episode you just gave, brought new enlightenment on what I should be looking for in my small parts. Thank you so very much. Sons of Liberty here I come!
@@HeartsOfDarkness Remember that BRCC supports one eyed Dan, who voted for Red Flag laws, which means you guns can be taken away for ANY reason without due process. BRCC is a rules for thee, but not for me type of cucked company. they have been virtually silent while our government is being taken over by communists.
Funny how it's the little things that act up. I had problems with my trigger spring working out, and it turns out I was using the pins that came from one of my other rifles. Found the original pins and no more issues.
I had issues with several PSA lower parts kits. Not the whole kit, but the safety was mush. I initially thought maybe the detent was bad so switched it out with a different one. Nope turned out to be the machining on the safety selector was what was causing it
I think I just went with a CMMG lower parts kit with no trigger group. My trigger is a ALG QMS trigger, which I like a lot, because it's done so well that you aren't even thinking about the trigger one way or another as you pull it. What I mean is when something is done right, people don't even notice anything was done at all. That trigger just does what it's supposed to, and you can keep your attention on your target, not distracted by the trigger. Also, for anyone who doesn't know, ALG is just Geissele Automatics' sister company that's effectively their economy brand. In fact, ALG stands for "Amy Lynn Geissele." I actually learned about the QMS (Quality Mil Spec) from a product showcase presented by Bill Geissele himself. I highly recommend the ALG QMS if you want a mil spec trigger with the polished functionality and reliability of a Geissele trigger, but at an affordable price. I paid $50 for mine in 2019, but it looks like the price is up quite a bit (what isn't these days? FJB). My rifle has run superbly, and as far as I can tell, the parts I bought are holding up great, and running smooth as butter.
FWIW, the ALG trigger is made by Schmid Tool & Engineering. You can find that same nickel teflon trigger and hammer right at Brownells. I've bought and installed several. I've used that hammer & trigger combo on conjunction with the JP Enterprises enhanced reliability spring set. It's a great combo
Glad someone finally speaks up to the mass about this lol. That’s why I only use cmmg LPK’s for the most part because everything from their mag catches to their springs are great in fit and finish. I’ve used SOLGW and CMC LPK’s and they’re good (better than most) but some of the parts have finishes that are a bit too thick for my liking.
I've heard alot of good things about cmmg. I'm gonna have to try them out. I'm in the process of finishing a Retro A2 style rifle. I'm gonna use this lower parts, see how they run. I usually use BCM stuff for my builds. But I'm willing to try other options
@@Usmc0341 you can’t go wrong with cmmg. I haven’t seen or used bcm lpk’s but I hear they’re good, too. I believe they source theirs out from an OEM mfr but don’t quote me on that!
Idk, I had a pair of cmmg parts kits that had overly tight takedown pins, the bolt catches felt like pot metal, and the roll pins felt unnecessarily hard to drive in. Made me decide to steer clear of them, I had no failures, but I replaced everything except the trigger guard before putting a significant amount of rounds through it. Good to hear you have had good results, and I might put those parts into a beater ar, but I'd definitely ante up to the 100ish buck lpks, sionics is about as good of a deal as I've ever seen, everything but a trigger guard and grip for right at 100, includes ambi safety and a "mil spec+" ptfe trigger. Joeboboutfitters lpk is a surprisingly good one from my sample size of 1 (meaning I may have gotten the best one they made, and the worst cmmg made) PSA lpk have also been good, again requires you to test and watch the parts for undue wear, I bought a few of those anderson oops kits, they're ok for a backup. Best route I"d say is still a mfg like solgw, bcm, or aero (probably cheapest for the quality), any of the well known established brands with solid qc, and qa
@@civilian0005 yeah, bcm and solgw are pretty open about the fact they source a majority of the parts, the qc/qa checks they go through are what separates them. Most ar manufacturers source out parts, to varying levels obviously, the only people I can think of that absolutely are 100% in house are Daniel Defense.
Alot of mil-spec parts I use and keep on hand for the ooops factor, breakage or lost at range clean/ repair are Brownells, Luth or the newer Strike Industries so let's hope their brands are of quality.
Got a lower for near nothing because it never worked right a few years ago. A good cleaning and a parts kit had it to perfection. Glad someone is talking about this as a good portion of AR failures I see personally are poorly made or fit small parts and all of the tiny springs associated.
@@jacob-tl3is the brownells packs are decent enough lower priced options, geisselle is pretty good but their QC can be hit or miss. EGW is great but you will pay out the ass for it. My advise is pick a few options you like and wishlist them to see if they go on sale, that can be a good way to get a decent kit cheap. In general I advise a budget of 50$ minimum for a kit without trigger or grip, and check the worst reviews on one you may like to see why they are bad. Eventually a bad kit gets through QC regardless of company, but a few kits bad vs. Half dont fit or snap off after a mag is a big difference. I know thats not a direct answer but its the best general advice I can give. Also don't discount low price as automatically bad. Got a few brownells kits on sale a few years back for like 15$ each. Used several in various builds, one kit had an out of spec bolt catch but the rest were good and have held up great.
This is a great topic, but unfortunately, in ineffective video, saying, spend more money, is not the answer it’s not actionable, newbies and mid-level people cannot make any decision from that information which you gotta do is either talk, specs, or brand names, or models or parts comparisons I know it’s a lot more work, but it just raises your brand level and your respect immensely
QC can raise the price of a part or product dramatically. The more complex something is the more it costs to double check every piece and how it functions. This reduces the chances of a defective part getting shipped. But every part a manufacturer throws away (or even recycles or repairs) is money lost so the price of what they do ship must go up. One of the ways some brands get cheap is they cut quality control so they can advertise "mil-spec" but they don't check enough to be sure everything they make really is. The brands most worried about reputation inspect every piece and you as the buyer are paying for that labor. Sometimes you are just paying for the name, but usually you are paying more because they are spending more labor on it before it leaves. Whether that cost is worth it to you is up to you.
For AR builds I use a single stage, drop in trigger/hammer set. Other parts can be ordered separately. Springs and detents can be ordered is quantities of 5 or more (in case you launch one into space. It happens). Buying full "kits" usually ends up in some inferior parts.
I only use handful of small parts because I've never had an issue with using those parts . Colt , FCD , Centurion & BCM are my go too small parts . I've been using Colts for 15 years . Sucks they are getting harder to find . That's why I started using Centurion , BCM and FCD parts.. I've never really had an issue with small parts . If I did have an issue it was more than likely my fault and not the part .
Semi fuddlore in that it really isn't a 'never do this' but more of a 'this might be a good general rule if you're not sure'. As someone previously mentioned, old wwii cleaning rods that came with many of those guns were often steel and that's an easy way to scrape up your crown from the inside, which is obviously terrible, I mean real bad, but having a nice high quality brass rod will reduce that concern. The other main reason why they used to tell people not to do that is that it shoves all the crud out of the barrel into the chamber which makes it more likely for stuff to get stuck on the edge deep in there and potentially give headspacing issues, this is also really bad. So the crown issue is less of a problem with high quality gear and the crud buildup is less of an issue if you clean from the chamber side after you brush and swab your barrel but even that can result in the crud getting shoved back into the barrel. The other theory is that pushing from the chamber side has the bristles engaging with more pressure on the same side the bullets are as they're being pushed in from the same direction but a full clean should scrub both sides of the grooves. The tldr is that with good modern gear and proper practices, most of the issues people might run up against from barrel side cleaning can probably be made irrelevant, but cleaning from the chamber side will avoid the issues entirely and probably is a good idea if it isn't too much trouble.
I like to build with ambi parts kits and the only one's I've found on the market are CMMG. Still though, I prefer to toss out the hammer and trigger pins and go with KNS anti-walk, anti-rotational pins. I also dislike the standard A2 grips and swap them out with an Ergo Grip rubber grip. I like to throw in an XMR extended mag release, the Odin Works Gen1 works well and just clears the KNS bar between the pins. It would be nice if someone made LPKs that came standard for ambi use and gave the option of picking out a different grip.
Per spec the trigger pins are supposed to rotate. The trigger springs should keep them from walking if everything is done correctly. Anti rotational pins are a gimmick that cause undue stress on the pins
@@abolishtheatfandrepealthen6014 You are correct that spec pins are supposed to rotate and the trigger spring is supposed to keep the pins from walking. Saying that anti-rotational pins are a gimmick is an opinion though. From time to time you may encounter out of spec pins or even triggers that have out of spec holes in them that will not allow the spring to fully entrap the pin and you will get walking out pins. I've personally seen this even on factory built guns that were new in the box and on some very old pre-94 gun ban guns that were well used and about wore out, a particular Olympic Arms comes to mind. Additionally drop in trigger packs often require the anti-walk trigger pins. Then there is the aesthetics, what you might call the gimmick of their use in builds. Some people prefer their look, with the trigger bar, as it gives a more dressed up appearance to the build, which is the primary reason that AR's come in so many different configurations, colors, and accessory attachments. There is value in aesthetics, as much as in function. I prefer the KNS pins, as they have a solid hammer pin which can withstand the torquing pressure of the hammer as it falls. Hollow hammer pins like those made by Guntec and others are more apt to fail under that torquing pressure.
@@ETSARMS I understand the "aesthetics" and all that as I almost fell for it but instead went with function over form. I want my guns to run no matter what and I won't give them any reason to give me trouble if it's avoidable. I get it that the chances of the pins being the problem are slim but why take the chance for "aesthetics"? There are anti walk pins that aren't anti rotational. They are the type that should be used on receivers with out of spec or egged out pin holes, the anti rotation is absolutely a gimmick and anyone who goes down the rabbit hole of AR specs and the reasons for them would agree. Anti walk and anti rotation are two very different things. I have anti walk in my first build, I have anti rotation on none.
LPK’s from Thunder Guns, missing parts but they were quick to send them. Have a trigger that won’t fire more than once without cycling the safety each time… emailed the complaint, no reply. Also, pistol buffer tubes had to be “milled” further to allow them to function properly as the upper impacted the buffer tube and wouldn’t allow the TD pins to engage. Don’t recommend Thunder… thoughts??
Best trigger group I've found is the Rock River Arms 2-Stage National Match. It drops in, has a powerful hammer spring to take on hard Russian primers with a faster lock time than mil-spec. It's beautifully crisp at 3 to 3.5 pound, that only gets smoother better the more it's used. All Mil-spec triggers there after will feel like your dragging a dead cow across a 4-lane highway (long, rough and heavy as hell). For all other internals and springs I use genuine Colt. Buy the best, forget the rest... As to the hammer/trigger pivot pins I use KNS Precision, Inc. Non-Rotating pins with keepers (NRTHP Mod.2 - 1555 kit). This way the receiver never suffers any hole wear... ^~^ edit: my spelling is utter rubbish at the best of times... 0~o
@@paraglidingnut26 Hey brother’ use whats better for you. I built 3 anderson lowers with anderson uppers. They fit together sloppy as hell and the anodizing was so thick I had to dremel out the mag release cavity on the button side on 2 and 1 needed to be clearenced for the bolt catch to fit. Thats the only 3 I ever built and the last I will ever use. A much better cheap alternative is the ATI milspec lowers’ they are threaded to use a set screw to tension the upper and lower plus the rear pin spring detent is threaded for a 4-40 grub screw so you can retain the detent spring to make back plate and buffer tube installation easier. One more thing’ the ATI milspec is cheaper than a Anderson and the anodizing doesn’t look purple. Try one.
@@TacticalBuffoonary Thanks Tactical! I've only used Aero uppers on those Anderson lowers. Surprisingly the uppers/lowers seem to fit fine together. No issues. I will definitely look at the ATI lowers. LIke you, I'm passing on any more Anderson lowers or uppers. My Anderson lowers/Aero uppers were built for family/friends with no good rifle weapons for self protection.
I'm f'd...got a box of stuff labeled "Spare Small Parts". It's a mix of parts I've bought over the years while learning what is good and not so good. On the other hand, I do carry a spare, small parts kit with my AR's and the hand tools to get 'r done in the field. Had a spring break on me once when I was in college, but that's before I had an AR. No, really I had a selector detente spring break on me once, but that did not stop the function of the rifle and I was out in the desert by myself, so I treated it as a gun with only one safety, my finger did not touch the trigger until I was certain I was ready to fire. Not to mention I kept the barrel pointed down-range and if I was not in the firing position, I unloaded and locked the bolt to the rear. Can't tell you how many times I've seen people set a loaded rifle down on the bench, mag still in, bolt home and they proceeded to walk toward their target to change it, or look at their group. The same guy would not stop talking to me about everything he thought of. Not my cup of joe. That's why I shoot in the desert, alone as often as possible. I turn my phone off, have a little one-on-one time with 'not my grandpa's, gun'.
Just going to throw this out there, the AR pattern hammer is not blocked in any way by the safety, the only thing it does is keep the trigger from being depressed, so its not really any safer than just not pulling the trigger like the people you were complaining about. The safety really doesn't do much, and shouldn't be trusted (like you said, unload it, check its clear, then its good, though I still wouldn't walk in front of its barrel out of habit).
I always had good luck with Spikes Tactical and Daniel Defense LPKs, not so much with CMMG or Aero Precision. The CMMG takedown pins were a slightly smaller diameter than those from Spikes or Daniel Defense and there was a noticeable amount of play between upper and lower receivers because of it. Aero Precision mil-spec triggers were terrible. If you're using a different trigger, then probably not a big deal. Small parts from Radian Weapons and Geissele have also been great.
Great info! I've learned a lot from a youtube channel. school of the american rifle. Aero uppers/lowers have worked fine for me, along with other mfg's u/l's. Parts kits from better mfg's seem to be the better ticket. And barrels as well.
@@paraglidingnut26Careful saying "better" and "manufacturers". in this industry, there are very few companies actually manufacturing any of the parts they sell, and even fewer all the parts they put in a weapon.
Lots of comments piling on PSA. I thought I'd leave a positive comment regarding their parts kits. Thousands of rounds in, not a single problem. If you are off to war and taking your own gun, look for a better kit. But if you are the other 99.999% building a range toy, it fits the bill just fine.
I've had tons of problems with PSA kits. Missing parts, wrong parts included, parts that don't fit or don't work etc. If you ask for them to fix the problem, they'll void your warranty too.
Bought a cheap lower parts kit for AR the safety grove wasn't machined in the correct place wouldn't detent into the safe position ended up buying a quality parts kit and doing it all over
The damn bolt catch... I'm getting a headache just thinking about a certain pew that gave me so many troubles. It all came down to the effing bolt catch.
Well then we are just into the problem with how LPKs don't declare what they contain outside of generic part descriptions like "mag catch spring." It isn't going to tell you what is in it. I've bought several LPKs for my platforms and I can't readily tell the difference between the springs or the retainer pins. The safeties and bolt catches are gritty in some of them so obviously not the same. The pivot and takedown pins are different too. The one thing I ALWAYS buy separate is the buffer retainer pin. It isn't a part of the firearm's functioning and only actually functions during maintenance but I've had those snap so I buy titanium ones. If I was comparing LPKs though, I wouldn't include the fire control group in the conversation. Those are clearly all over the board.
Don’t skimp on the lower parts kit. $5-$10 more is with the difference. A bad vs good safety detent or pivot pin detent makes all the difference. I’ve had cheap safety detents that basically made the safety impossible to engage. Those little parts matter!
I bought a low cost parts kit for "Emergency" use .. If something breaks on my guns I get quality parts to replace those.. The parts kit is only to fix something for a temporary fix..
Non oem parts may help you out in a pinch, but just remember to replace those parts with OEM parts. When you accumulate quite a few guns, I've forgotten without writing info down, you tend to forget to do such tasks.
I have had trouble with one particular part that really should be no problem at all...Numerous kits will include the wrong size Roll Pins, to look at them they of course look to be correct but when measured they are too large and are not going to install at all, I believe that these are foreign made Roll Pins that have no Quality Control to them what so ever, this has happened to me quite a few times.
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Legend has it Caleb's missus hid his hair products, hence the stand in....
I heard supply chain issues, no Dapper Dan. Either way , not good.
@@randybounds2244 😂😂
@@randybounds2244 Last I heard you could get Dapper Dan in a couple of weeks..........
She doesn’t want to lose him.
LOL!!!!😆
Mike is scared to look at Steve. Appropriate respect given. I like it.
LoL no kidding
Looked like he was 'bricking it...'
@@artmallory970 "Bricking it"? Is that like, "Prairie dogging it?". Because you can't look another man in the eyes when you're prairie dogging it.
🤣🤣
@@5jjt do you have prairie dogging as holding back a log? Hence the log peeking in and out like a prairie dog.
The only issue I've had with LPKs is the number of detents included. I'm sure one of them is circling the ISS.
Think I'm going to buy a parts cleaning cabinet just for assembling lowers so I don't send more into another dimension
those are tricky, i once sent a buffer detent spring to mars. I had to use a pen spring temporarily before i can get a new one.
LOL... I typically buy a few of those kits, when I catch them on sale. So, at least I have a few spare parts, incase something launches into another dimension.
@@gabriellindig I too, have thought a sand blasting cabinet, or similar sealed box, (&/or a sterile white room?) would make a good place to assemble an AR lower and upper. I do use magnetic parts trays to corral my small parts, and catch loose ones. And it works nicely.
@@chrissewell1608 I think some people do it in large ziplock bags, that way the bag catches it. unless its perfectly facing you, in which case you know where it went anyways.
Although I agree that small parts are not created equal, there is one "fix in a pinch" that I have done, and that works. If you lose the buffer detent spring, the spring from a click style ink pen is nearly identical and works well in a pinch.
I used one on my Mk12 back in 2005 due to the correct spring heading to Mars. It’s still in there😄
Good to see Mike got the synchronized sip done right at the end...quality parts and a quality ending. Cheers, all!
I just finished a build using a Brownell's Mil-Spec LPK (minus FCG & grip). Everything looked good, and fit right. I'm counting on you, so here's hoping it shoots and lasts!
As a career long auto mechanic it never ceased to amaze me how many high end auto owners chose to go with the cheapest possible parts found . But many once big brand names anymore are just that . A name . With firearms I choose O E from the maker .
Yeah I wish it were the same case with cars. It amazes me that cars that cost twice the amount of a Toyota is often less reliable. Can’t say the same with firearms overall.
Firearms are a bit different, most people don't buy from Armalite (also that's kind of dated going design going mil-spec). Then you have to remember mil-spec just means made by the lowest bidder. I know, technically it actually means that it meets the color specification, the pre-painted dimension unless otherwise stated, the material spec, and typically a substandard dimensional tolerance that particularly on the Armalite can still not function properly due to improper tolerance stacking (it also doesn't mean it functions well or properly, see a lot of military magazines). OEM also does not indicate good quality control (some people will mention Kel-Tec here, I haven't shot one, but its probably accurate), then compare that to nice competition grade Glock parts, you get better quality.
Just like car parts, you can get much tighter tolerance parts, with superior materials, with superior finishes if you're willing to spend more than OEM (usually, sometimes its still cheaper).
Mike is a stand up guy. Thank you for all you do SOLGW!
Word of mouth and reputation are so important. I can't look at a spring or firing pin or extractor and tell the quality of the steel that went into it. Price isn't always an indicator of quality.
This comment should be pinned.
@@ryanwilson5936 and welded. 😆
So which is a go 2
@@joshpittman8473 AO on budget, Colt, FN, on standard builds, and SOLGW for everything else. C158, mpi, hpt, No NiB or coatings, no KAC deviation from what has worked for decades. Always have a spare bolt, two sets of rings, FP, cam pin, FP retainer, ejector, extractor, and all the springs. Basically everything minus the carrier though it's cheaper just to buy another group and ditch the carrier. All of it fits in my grip and is g2g.
I already commented this on a different video, but could you guys do a Smith Busters on cleaning rods? Because there is a lot of contradictory information out there.
Rods are old school. The bore snakes (like a shoelace) are much much better. Just buy one for each calibre and you're good
@@zanderw1199 I respectfully disagree. Try this experiment. Use your bore snake and then use a cleaning rod with a brush and some patches and you will see the boresnake did not get it as clean as the old school brush and Patch. I've tried this many many times.
@@zanderw1199 A fool and their money are soon parted. A bore snake is really only good for a final wipe down in my opinion. I will never give up my J Dewey cleaning supplies.
I bought the Brownells cleaning kit when I first got my AR. It was complete garbage. I don't know if it was made in china, but it might as well have been. Their opinion on things like this probably can't be trusted since they only seem to promote their own products or products they sell. J Dewey is the best product that I am aware of and they get rave reviews from everyone, but I don't think Brownells sells them. I currently only use J Dewey cleaning tools and if I buy a new rifle or pistol of a different caliber, I would buy J Dewey tools for those guns too. These are top notch products.
@@MAGAMAN
Tipton has very good rods, I like their one piece carbon fiber rod with ball bearing handles.
Holy smokes - I called SOLGW last week with a simple question and Mike answered the phone. I recognize his voice! FYI they test fire every BCG they sell. I am impressed.
@@mrfarts5176 what the hell are you going on about?
I'm a Gunsmith an you guys have good info for anyone listening.. thank you! To Spec is good!! Man this world has gone mad, been struggling through this attack on our freedoms an supplies.. keep the faith and keep pushing for our freedoms 🇺🇸🇺🇸
Good advice ! I'm going to check all my springs and parts on my Hi Point ! I don't want any malfunctions now that I'm working for Blackwater !
I'm a huge Aero Precision fanboy. Love their essentials LPK which leaves out the FCG and safety since you typically swap those out anyways.
THIS. I run this on every rifle with a Radian Talon safety & a Giesellie trigger (use to run the LaRue triggers, but they've had a lot of delays / backorders recently so I switched to Giesellie on al my newer builds).
Nick - I’m becoming an all around AP fan. Their enhanced 308 AR receivers and handguard combine for a rock solid system. However, I *really* like the SOLGW BCG.
@@sofloflow If you're in need of a new trigger I would check out Wilson Combat's TTU triggers. I used to run only Geissele SSA-E triggers in all my rifles. I bought the WC TTU two stage and man I haven't looked back. Better feel, cleaner break, and cheaper. WC uses a EDM machine, Geissele is still casting their triggers. I've never seen a trigger Geissele trigger break but I'd trust the EDM process far more than casting in this case. Either way, you can't go wrong with Geissele or WC.
@@Theman3806 I'll definitely check it out! Thanks!
@@sofloflow I'll back his statement up. Wilson's TTU is above and beyond anything else on the market today.
Love Brownells!!!
A few years ago I purchased one of those Colt expanse rifles. Then preceded to replace everything in the rifle. Now I believe everything is BCM with the exception of the lower receiver, bolt catch and mag release. Cool thing since I was an early adopter I got one of the few Colt manufactured LE6920 lowers. (at least that's what the Colt rep said.)
This is the first Brownells video that I thought didn't go far enough. I wish you guys had given a list of parts kits that are good to go and ones that are not the best quality. Speaking in generalities really doesn't cut it here.
That list could have a limited shelf life. This video will be around for years.
That might limit their sales of said parts kits.
Like another reply said things can change so a hard list is probably best left off. From what I've found looking around the most good to go recommendations are SOLGW, Sionics, Forward Controls. Bigger names that I've heard recommended without issue are Colt, BCM, Geissele, ALG, DD, probably most you know that are trusted manufacturers. Aero and CMMG are generally highly regarded and I've not heard reports of any issues.
That is because they sell crap lpks themselves and don't want to lose the profit from marking them up to dam near what a real lpk costs. Colt, FN, and LMT are the best and would say that SOLGW is the closest
Non-Military contract manufacturer available on the market for small parts and bolt carriers, which is why brownells chose to have him speak on this matter to boost consumer confidence.
Aero Precision makes excellent lower parts kits -- which I buy without the trigger control group, using a Geissele G2S. The billet trigger guard is excellent, if that isn't integral to the lower. Enormously high value for the price.
After watching this video the first time it really sparked my interest. After doing some extensive research I changed out the lower parts kits in all of my rifles with SOLGW lower parts kits some including the trigger. It cost me about $200 to do 3 guns and I can say they just seem to be of much better quality now. It’s a warm and fuzzy knowing I don’t have to worry about some MIM bolt catch snapping on me while I’m at the range.
I also realized you can build an extremely high quality rifle on a budget. Get a standard PSA or Anderson lower for about $60 and fill it with quality parts.
This is SUCH a valuable video and I hope that the folks watching take the information to heart.
Although I’m not a fan of SOL, I respect the message here, and greatly appreciate Brownells for continuing to produce quality videos that help the common man.
Why don’t you like them?
I'm curious too why you don't like solgw
Lemme guess, you're a huge Hi-Point fan. 🙄😆
Your going to have way more people asking you why than agreeing with you.
@@abolishtheatfandrepealthen6014 Some folks take offense to the co-owners (this guy, mike mihalski) significant DUI history and other criminal run ins with the law. Last DUI 2019 I think. Or maybe its just that he drinks from a Black Rifle Coffee mug. Who knows.
The last build I did was on a KP-15 I ordered through Brownells. Everything went together well, except I used an ALG ACT trigger I had on another rifle I was cannibalizing for parts which had the lighter hammer spring on it. When I took it out the first round fired, but then click. Everything cycled, but out of about 10 rounds only one or two rounds fired. I knew the ammo should be fine and it was dimpling the primer, but looked kind of weak, so I packed up for the day and picked up a stouter spring from one of my local shops since I lost the original and next time out, worked like a champ.
Good job. I eliminated the fire group issue by buying good kits without a fire control group, and installing a good, quality drop in trigger.
Where did you get your kit from?
@@seamerollin9055 use CMMG parts kits. Available several different retailers.
@@jeffnewman2864 Sweet, thanks.
I used a Daniel Defense LPK and a Strike Industries LPK, also a smith and Wesson LPK, they all work fine.
I bought a CMMG ,and it was real nice.Nice trigger,all good.I bought a no name parts kit from a local shop and the pins were harder to get in and the trigger was terrible.Im going to replace all the cheap parts .
First off, Sons of Liberty Gunworks makes FANTASTIC weapons, I am NOT debating that AT ALL. And yes, he is absolutely right, parts kits are not the same. However, I think its disingenuous to have this topic where you have a parts maker say "well yes, parts do matter" while having his product out on the table. At that point, it becomes advertising and takes a whack at the credibility of this series. Sorry, just an observation.
Yeah, should have a paid advertisement disclaimer on this video.
"But he didn't pay us" you make money off of his products, don't you?
I like the big box in the background for additional advertising. I don't see a problem he knows his products are good and he doesn't mention the bad company that makes carp so sure he is pushing his brand but what if it works well go for it.
I think you're looking too much into it if it was an advertisement he wouldn't have mentioned another company BY NAME that's just as good as his... how many advertisements have you seen that mentioned other companies products doing just as well
How many advertisers advertise another company’s products?
I highly doubt solgw makes any of those small parts.
CMMG OEM's a ton of parts for other manufacturers. They are one of the main manufactures of small parts kits all together if I'm not mistaken. I would choose them or another reputable companies parts kit rather than save 8 bucks like Mike said.
Dude was told...drink coffee at end of video...and he complied.😆
I bought a complete .300blk parts kit minus lower receiver from PSA a while back, and will never make a mistake like that again... I had to take a file and sandpaper to the upper reciever to get it to fit inside my lower.
huge difference!! for example, I just learned last night the small part that come with your extra items..use those.. detent pins springs etc. I learned last night, my Geissle bolt maritime will not work or fit with my LaRue Lower.. So now I am searching for a good bolt catch for my LaRue 556. my take down pins came with thier own springs and detents... so, i use those. I also notice the Geissle small parts - roll pins are very different than Aero pins.. huge.. you guys were right to make this video..now if i can only find a good recommend for my bolt catch...
Strike industries makes a really good extended bolt catch. I use them on all my builds.
The Phase 5 EBRv3 is nice. Strike Industries aren’t bad. Have both the regular and the extended. The EBRv3 replaced the SI extended catch because the bolt was slipping extremely easy. The regular SI catch is still on my other rig. My lowers are a Ruger-556 and a CMMG.
My first build was a PSA small parts kit and the second build was a SOLGW kit and it is so much smoother and one of my psa springs broke
I have to say from examining a PSA AR-10, that they would be more truthful to change their brand to POS. I removed about a third of a safety detent spring from underneath the extractor claw as the extractor was not moving correctly when I was tearing it down. They also have a chamber tight enough that apparently on cold days the gun needs to be mortared to clear a round, and I think it might be having some issues with the hammer not being held correctly as it has had a few failures to fire which left no mark on the primer of the round. Oh, and the upper is malformed enough that it can't take an aftermarket dustcover, the dustcover it came with came bent to hell, and they took over a month to respond to the warranty claim with the proposed solution of "send us the whole rifle, we'll ship it back to you eventually"
Learned this lesson the hard way. I bought cheap parts kit and Had a really hard time with the pin that holds the bolt catch in place. I Beat the hell out of it And jacked up my lower in the process, and the pin still isn’t all the way through.
I tend to be what some people might call a “just-as-gooder” I always consider the cost and the value of a product but when it comes to parts kits, just spend the extra few bucks for a good one, it’s not particularly expensive to begin with.
Funny this is posted from them. My brownells lower parts kit worked fine until my takedown pin literally broke right in half
This episode you just gave, brought new enlightenment on what I should be looking for in my small parts. Thank you so very much. Sons of Liberty here I come!
Guy needs to toss that BRCC mug. Free Kyle
😉
@@HeartsOfDarkness Remember that BRCC supports one eyed Dan, who voted for Red Flag laws, which means you guns can be taken away for ANY reason without due process.
BRCC is a rules for thee, but not for me type of cucked company. they have been virtually silent while our government is being taken over by communists.
@@MAGAMAN Classic example of wolf in sheep’s clothing.
Yeah, F black rifle coffee company seriously.
@@brentflowers7612 why what's up
Funny how it's the little things that act up. I had problems with my trigger spring working out, and it turns out I was using the pins that came from one of my other rifles. Found the original pins and no more issues.
Totally agree, the small parts can be more important than the lower, rail's, and stuff like that.
This. The small parts (and the bolt/BCG) are 95% of the difference between a good home build and a disaster!
I bought cheap ,no name roll pins and they were real hard to get in I got CMMG kit and all nice and nice trigger.Only about 7 Dollars more.
I had issues with several PSA lower parts kits. Not the whole kit, but the safety was mush. I initially thought maybe the detent was bad so switched it out with a different one. Nope turned out to be the machining on the safety selector was what was causing it
Did Mike forget his spit cup? Thank you for the video!
I think I just went with a CMMG lower parts kit with no trigger group. My trigger is a ALG QMS trigger, which I like a lot, because it's done so well that you aren't even thinking about the trigger one way or another as you pull it. What I mean is when something is done right, people don't even notice anything was done at all. That trigger just does what it's supposed to, and you can keep your attention on your target, not distracted by the trigger.
Also, for anyone who doesn't know, ALG is just Geissele Automatics' sister company that's effectively their economy brand. In fact, ALG stands for "Amy Lynn Geissele." I actually learned about the QMS (Quality Mil Spec) from a product showcase presented by Bill Geissele himself. I highly recommend the ALG QMS if you want a mil spec trigger with the polished functionality and reliability of a Geissele trigger, but at an affordable price. I paid $50 for mine in 2019, but it looks like the price is up quite a bit (what isn't these days? FJB).
My rifle has run superbly, and as far as I can tell, the parts I bought are holding up great, and running smooth as butter.
FWIW, the ALG trigger is made by Schmid Tool & Engineering. You can find that same nickel teflon trigger and hammer right at Brownells. I've bought and installed several. I've used that hammer & trigger combo on conjunction with the JP Enterprises enhanced reliability spring set. It's a great combo
These 2 guys have so much knowlege I could listen to them for days
Glad someone finally speaks up to the mass about this lol. That’s why I only use cmmg LPK’s for the most part because everything from their mag catches to their springs are great in fit and finish. I’ve used SOLGW and CMC LPK’s and they’re good (better than most) but some of the parts have finishes that are a bit too thick for my liking.
I've heard alot of good things about cmmg. I'm gonna have to try them out. I'm in the process of finishing a Retro A2 style rifle. I'm gonna use this lower parts, see how they run. I usually use BCM stuff for my builds. But I'm willing to try other options
@@Usmc0341 you can’t go wrong with cmmg. I haven’t seen or used bcm lpk’s but I hear they’re good, too. I believe they source theirs out from an OEM mfr but don’t quote me on that!
Idk, I had a pair of cmmg parts kits that had overly tight takedown pins, the bolt catches felt like pot metal, and the roll pins felt unnecessarily hard to drive in. Made me decide to steer clear of them, I had no failures, but I replaced everything except the trigger guard before putting a significant amount of rounds through it. Good to hear you have had good results, and I might put those parts into a beater ar, but I'd definitely ante up to the 100ish buck lpks, sionics is about as good of a deal as I've ever seen, everything but a trigger guard and grip for right at 100, includes ambi safety and a "mil spec+" ptfe trigger. Joeboboutfitters lpk is a surprisingly good one from my sample size of 1 (meaning I may have gotten the best one they made, and the worst cmmg made) PSA lpk have also been good, again requires you to test and watch the parts for undue wear, I bought a few of those anderson oops kits, they're ok for a backup. Best route I"d say is still a mfg like solgw, bcm, or aero (probably cheapest for the quality), any of the well known established brands with solid qc, and qa
@@civilian0005 yeah, bcm and solgw are pretty open about the fact they source a majority of the parts, the qc/qa checks they go through are what separates them. Most ar manufacturers source out parts, to varying levels obviously, the only people I can think of that absolutely are 100% in house are Daniel Defense.
Alot of mil-spec parts I use and keep on hand for the ooops factor, breakage or lost at range clean/ repair are Brownells, Luth or the newer Strike Industries so let's hope their brands are of quality.
Hell yeah. Mike knows his shit. He's changed how I build my rifles.
Got a lower for near nothing because it never worked right a few years ago. A good cleaning and a parts kit had it to perfection. Glad someone is talking about this as a good portion of AR failures I see personally are poorly made or fit small parts and all of the tiny springs associated.
So what brand do you recommend??
@@jacob-tl3is the brownells packs are decent enough lower priced options, geisselle is pretty good but their QC can be hit or miss. EGW is great but you will pay out the ass for it. My advise is pick a few options you like and wishlist them to see if they go on sale, that can be a good way to get a decent kit cheap. In general I advise a budget of 50$ minimum for a kit without trigger or grip, and check the worst reviews on one you may like to see why they are bad. Eventually a bad kit gets through QC regardless of company, but a few kits bad vs. Half dont fit or snap off after a mag is a big difference. I know thats not a direct answer but its the best general advice I can give. Also don't discount low price as automatically bad. Got a few brownells kits on sale a few years back for like 15$ each. Used several in various builds, one kit had an out of spec bolt catch but the rest were good and have held up great.
Been doing alot of work with psa stuff.... biggest issue I've had is missing parts...
I've had good luck with the CMMG lower parts kit. I haven't tried their trigger but I'm sure it's okay.
Trigger nice.I left a comment also.
This is a great topic, but unfortunately, in ineffective video, saying, spend more money, is not the answer it’s not actionable, newbies and mid-level people cannot make any decision from that information which you gotta do is either talk, specs, or brand names, or models or parts comparisons I know it’s a lot more work, but it just raises your brand level and your respect immensely
QC can raise the price of a part or product dramatically. The more complex something is the more it costs to double check every piece and how it functions. This reduces the chances of a defective part getting shipped. But every part a manufacturer throws away (or even recycles or repairs) is money lost so the price of what they do ship must go up. One of the ways some brands get cheap is they cut quality control so they can advertise "mil-spec" but they don't check enough to be sure everything they make really is. The brands most worried about reputation inspect every piece and you as the buyer are paying for that labor. Sometimes you are just paying for the name, but usually you are paying more because they are spending more labor on it before it leaves. Whether that cost is worth it to you is up to you.
So what companies are doing it wrong? Which ones are good?
If your QC process is that many levels, then perhaps your Quality Assurance plan is off in the Manufacture Process.
“ it won’t last very long. I tried it” Followed by a big smirk. Classic bad ass!
Very important discussion that many novice builder/shooters do not think to consider. Outstanding myth buster 👍 topic & dialog.
Always great to hear from Mr. Mitsubishi!
Oh yeah! I was there with "having to drive you're pivot pin with a hammer."
You can actually look up and BCM is one of a few companies out there that actually gives information about their lower parts kit!!!
I have watched School of the American Rifle testing small parts kits. It's worth spending the extra money. Sometimes the frame takes a certain part.
Mil Spec = just enough to get by.
What do you recommend?
Looks like Caleb gained a few pounds and grew a beard since his last video appearance.
For AR builds I use a single stage, drop in trigger/hammer set. Other parts can be ordered separately. Springs and detents can be ordered is quantities of 5 or more (in case you launch one into space. It happens). Buying full "kits" usually ends up in some inferior parts.
Absolutely correct. They're NOT "all the same.
Did someone tell him NOT to look at anyone or the camera?!?! I have issues with people this can’t look you in the eye!
This guy knows his stuff
I had a saftey dtent wear in less than 4 months I went to brownells and bought a solgw and it is flawless now
I had bought a stripped Anderson lower and used a cmmg parts kit. Hoping it goes well.
I'm glad I spend the extra for the premium detents
I only use handful of small parts because I've never had an issue with using those parts .
Colt , FCD , Centurion & BCM are my go too small parts . I've been using Colts for 15 years . Sucks they are getting harder to find . That's why I started using Centurion , BCM and FCD parts..
I've never really had an issue with small parts . If I did have an issue it was more than likely my fault and not the part .
Here's a myth that needs busting: "Never put your cleaning rod in from the muzzle end." Is this fuddlore or does it actually damage your barrel?
What this guy said! ☝️☝️
I think old military steel rods can and will destroy a crown but a quality brass or coated rod shouldn’t be a issue.
Just be carful. The thing that scares me most with rods is when they get loose , ide hate for an edge to knick the barrel.
Semi fuddlore in that it really isn't a 'never do this' but more of a 'this might be a good general rule if you're not sure'. As someone previously mentioned, old wwii cleaning rods that came with many of those guns were often steel and that's an easy way to scrape up your crown from the inside, which is obviously terrible, I mean real bad, but having a nice high quality brass rod will reduce that concern. The other main reason why they used to tell people not to do that is that it shoves all the crud out of the barrel into the chamber which makes it more likely for stuff to get stuck on the edge deep in there and potentially give headspacing issues, this is also really bad. So the crown issue is less of a problem with high quality gear and the crud buildup is less of an issue if you clean from the chamber side after you brush and swab your barrel but even that can result in the crud getting shoved back into the barrel. The other theory is that pushing from the chamber side has the bristles engaging with more pressure on the same side the bullets are as they're being pushed in from the same direction but a full clean should scrub both sides of the grooves.
The tldr is that with good modern gear and proper practices, most of the issues people might run up against from barrel side cleaning can probably be made irrelevant, but cleaning from the chamber side will avoid the issues entirely and probably is a good idea if it isn't too much trouble.
I don't think it really matters. But I always push mine from the feed ramp down.
You covered some info I had never thought of. Thanks!👍
I like to build with ambi parts kits and the only one's I've found on the market are CMMG. Still though, I prefer to toss out the hammer and trigger pins and go with KNS anti-walk, anti-rotational pins. I also dislike the standard A2 grips and swap them out with an Ergo Grip rubber grip. I like to throw in an XMR extended mag release, the Odin Works Gen1 works well and just clears the KNS bar between the pins. It would be nice if someone made LPKs that came standard for ambi use and gave the option of picking out a different grip.
Per spec the trigger pins are supposed to rotate. The trigger springs should keep them from walking if everything is done correctly. Anti rotational pins are a gimmick that cause undue stress on the pins
@@abolishtheatfandrepealthen6014 You are correct that spec pins are supposed to rotate and the trigger spring is supposed to keep the pins from walking. Saying that anti-rotational pins are a gimmick is an opinion though. From time to time you may encounter out of spec pins or even triggers that have out of spec holes in them that will not allow the spring to fully entrap the pin and you will get walking out pins. I've personally seen this even on factory built guns that were new in the box and on some very old pre-94 gun ban guns that were well used and about wore out, a particular Olympic Arms comes to mind. Additionally drop in trigger packs often require the anti-walk trigger pins. Then there is the aesthetics, what you might call the gimmick of their use in builds. Some people prefer their look, with the trigger bar, as it gives a more dressed up appearance to the build, which is the primary reason that AR's come in so many different configurations, colors, and accessory attachments. There is value in aesthetics, as much as in function. I prefer the KNS pins, as they have a solid hammer pin which can withstand the torquing pressure of the hammer as it falls. Hollow hammer pins like those made by Guntec and others are more apt to fail under that torquing pressure.
@@ETSARMS I understand the "aesthetics" and all that as I almost fell for it but instead went with function over form. I want my guns to run no matter what and I won't give them any reason to give me trouble if it's avoidable. I get it that the chances of the pins being the problem are slim but why take the chance for "aesthetics"? There are anti walk pins that aren't anti rotational. They are the type that should be used on receivers with out of spec or egged out pin holes, the anti rotation is absolutely a gimmick and anyone who goes down the rabbit hole of AR specs and the reasons for them would agree. Anti walk and anti rotation are two very different things. I have anti walk in my first build, I have anti rotation on none.
Seekins & Strike Industries make the best lpk in my opinion
But the PSA, Radical, and BCA fanboy crowd will tell you "JuSt As GuD".
I don't think Radical of 5 years ago is the same as today. I think they got their shit together.
I love my PSAs
Great advice.
Great to see Mike M. from SOLGW sitting in!
I bought a complete lower and upper once from a “cheap” manufacturer and couldn’t even get the takedown pins to mate up.
Don’t hold out, call them out. Who was it?
LPK’s from Thunder Guns, missing parts but they were quick to send them. Have a trigger that won’t fire more than once without cycling the safety each time… emailed the complaint, no reply. Also, pistol buffer tubes had to be “milled” further to allow them to function properly as the upper impacted the buffer tube and wouldn’t allow the TD pins to engage. Don’t recommend Thunder… thoughts??
@@ryanwilson5936 PSA 😅
What is the names of quality small parts ?
Thank you. How do we know the quality of these parts? Is there expert reviews on different manufacturers out there?
Alexandre Parrat Just get SOLGW parts. He sells kits, he's not gonna tell you which of his competitors sells good stuff.
@@POOKIE5592
Like ALG & Geissele 😉
I've had good luck with Spikes Tactical, Daniel Defense, Radian Weapons, Geissele, and BCM. Not so much with CMMG, Aero Precision, or PSA
@@nunyabiznes32
All my charging handles and security levers come from Radian awesome stuff.
I had an upper kit come with a fwd assist roll pin that was nowhere near big enough.
Best trigger group I've found is the Rock River Arms 2-Stage National Match. It drops in, has a powerful hammer spring to take on hard Russian primers with a faster lock time than mil-spec. It's beautifully crisp at 3 to 3.5 pound, that only gets smoother better the more it's used. All Mil-spec triggers there after will feel like your dragging a dead cow across a 4-lane highway (long, rough and heavy as hell). For all other internals and springs I use genuine Colt. Buy the best, forget the rest... As to the hammer/trigger pivot pins I use KNS Precision, Inc. Non-Rotating pins with keepers (NRTHP Mod.2 - 1555 kit). This way the receiver never suffers any hole wear... ^~^
edit: my spelling is utter rubbish at the best of times... 0~o
This is why I don’t use Anderson anything.
I've built 6 Anderson lowers with parts from other mfg's. The Anderson lowers work just as well as my more espensive mfg's lowers.
@@paraglidingnut26 Hey brother’ use whats better for you. I built 3 anderson lowers with anderson uppers. They fit together sloppy as hell and the anodizing was so thick I had to dremel out the mag release cavity on the button side on 2 and 1 needed to be clearenced for the bolt catch to fit. Thats the only 3 I ever built and the last I will ever use. A much better cheap alternative is the ATI milspec lowers’ they are threaded to use a set screw to tension the upper and lower plus the rear pin spring detent is threaded for a 4-40 grub screw so you can retain the detent spring to make back plate and buffer tube installation easier. One more thing’ the ATI milspec is cheaper than a Anderson and the anodizing doesn’t look purple. Try one.
@@TacticalBuffoonary Thanks Tactical!
I've only used Aero uppers on those Anderson lowers. Surprisingly the uppers/lowers seem to fit fine together. No issues. I will definitely look at the ATI lowers. LIke you, I'm passing on any more Anderson lowers or uppers.
My Anderson lowers/Aero uppers were built for family/friends with no good rifle weapons for self protection.
I'm f'd...got a box of stuff labeled "Spare Small Parts". It's a mix of parts I've bought over the years while learning what is good and not so good. On the other hand, I do carry a spare, small parts kit with my AR's and the hand tools to get 'r done in the field.
Had a spring break on me once when I was in college, but that's before I had an AR. No, really I had a selector detente spring break on me once, but that did not stop the function of the rifle and I was out in the desert by myself, so I treated it as a gun with only one safety, my finger did not touch the trigger until I was certain I was ready to fire. Not to mention I kept the barrel pointed down-range and if I was not in the firing position, I unloaded and locked the bolt to the rear.
Can't tell you how many times I've seen people set a loaded rifle down on the bench, mag still in, bolt home and they proceeded to walk toward their target to change it, or look at their group. The same guy would not stop talking to me about everything he thought of. Not my cup of joe. That's why I shoot in the desert, alone as often as possible. I turn my phone off, have a little one-on-one time with 'not my grandpa's, gun'.
Just going to throw this out there, the AR pattern hammer is not blocked in any way by the safety, the only thing it does is keep the trigger from being depressed, so its not really any safer than just not pulling the trigger like the people you were complaining about. The safety really doesn't do much, and shouldn't be trusted (like you said, unload it, check its clear, then its good, though I still wouldn't walk in front of its barrel out of habit).
you guys are the real deal. brownells 🇺🇸
I’ve had a dpms lpk with out of spec pivot pin. And I’ve had a aero lower that was very tight fit to any upper.
My mans, spittin the troof!
I always had good luck with Spikes Tactical and Daniel Defense LPKs, not so much with CMMG or Aero Precision. The CMMG takedown pins were a slightly smaller diameter than those from Spikes or Daniel Defense and there was a noticeable amount of play between upper and lower receivers because of it. Aero Precision mil-spec triggers were terrible. If you're using a different trigger, then probably not a big deal. Small parts from Radian Weapons and Geissele have also been great.
Great info! I've learned a lot from a youtube channel. school of the american rifle. Aero uppers/lowers have worked fine for me, along with other mfg's u/l's. Parts kits from better mfg's seem to be the better ticket. And barrels as well.
@@paraglidingnut26Careful saying "better" and "manufacturers". in this industry, there are very few companies actually manufacturing any of the parts they sell, and even fewer all the parts they put in a weapon.
Lots of comments piling on PSA. I thought I'd leave a positive comment regarding their parts kits. Thousands of rounds in, not a single problem. If you are off to war and taking your own gun, look for a better kit. But if you are the other 99.999% building a range toy, it fits the bill just fine.
I've had tons of problems with PSA kits. Missing parts, wrong parts included, parts that don't fit or don't work etc. If you ask for them to fix the problem, they'll void your warranty too.
If you call them you’ll sit on hold for at least 30 min anyway.
Bought a cheap lower parts kit for AR the safety grove wasn't machined in the correct place wouldn't detent into the safe position ended up buying a quality parts kit and doing it all over
Schmidt Tool makes the best LPK
Where is Caleb?? And what is in the cups?
Great video, you don’t save anything for a few dollars cheaper.
The damn bolt catch... I'm getting a headache just thinking about a certain pew that gave me so many troubles. It all came down to the effing bolt catch.
Had two friends guns fail because of the small spring in the forward assist failing and catching on the bcg teeth
Well then we are just into the problem with how LPKs don't declare what they contain outside of generic part descriptions like "mag catch spring." It isn't going to tell you what is in it. I've bought several LPKs for my platforms and I can't readily tell the difference between the springs or the retainer pins. The safeties and bolt catches are gritty in some of them so obviously not the same. The pivot and takedown pins are different too. The one thing I ALWAYS buy separate is the buffer retainer pin. It isn't a part of the firearm's functioning and only actually functions during maintenance but I've had those snap so I buy titanium ones. If I was comparing LPKs though, I wouldn't include the fire control group in the conversation. Those are clearly all over the board.
Don’t skimp on the lower parts kit. $5-$10 more is with the difference. A bad vs good safety detent or pivot pin detent makes all the difference. I’ve had cheap safety detents that basically made the safety impossible to engage. Those little parts matter!
I bought a low cost parts kit for "Emergency" use .. If something breaks on my guns I get quality parts to replace those.. The parts kit is only to fix something for a temporary fix..
Non oem parts may help you out in a pinch, but just remember to replace those parts with OEM parts. When you accumulate quite a few guns, I've forgotten without writing info down, you tend to forget to do such tasks.
I like the cmmg kits
I have had trouble with one particular part that really should be no problem at all...Numerous kits will include the wrong size Roll Pins, to look at them they of course look to be correct but when measured they are too large and are not going to install at all, I believe that these are foreign made Roll Pins that have no Quality Control to them what so ever, this has happened to me quite a few times.
Just a heads up guys I was subscribed for a long time and just had to resubscribe. Darn you tube. Always great content!!❤️
Where's Caleb?