@@howlfl4r386 Depends on what the card is / what set, but if it pulls a low grade, some cards are better off just being sold as a raw card instead of graded. Chances are, if its not a popular card, you could lose out on the grading fee + selling it = loss. All about spending the time to research what a card could go for IF it achieved a good grade.
@@Gav1337 I not doing it to sell it but I still want a good grade I’m thinking about 2017 Lycanroc GX SM14. It’s not a lot of white but the centering is horrible! Edit: Oh and it’s from the Lycanroc midday booster box
Glad it was helpful! Planning on doing a couple more videos in the near future and turning this into a sort of mini-series. If you haven't already, hit the subscribe button to stay tuned ;).
Your welcome! I plan on filming a couple of individual graded cards in each grade to give viewers a clearer picture of 'what a PSA 2 looks like' etc. Stay tuned for that [hit the subscribe button ^_^]
I subscribed and yes would definitely want to learn and see the differences of grades 4-7. Especially focusing on the backs. Thank you for the content and keep doing a great job.
Does having scratches on the card automatically bump it down to a 6? I got a Leafeong Level X, and Dark Persian that I want to grade, but both have visible scratches upon close inspection. Not from far away. And they both have whitening as well.
Not automatically bumping it down to a PSA 6, but PSA check the whole condition of the card. So if everything else was perfect apart from maybe a scratch, then it theory it could score a PSA Mint 9. Depends on the individual card.
That is something that I have been throwing around in my head. Just with the way grading is now-a-days, it could be moths, more likely years before I see and sort of returns. That said, it is not off the table!
Lol, before watching this video, I thought my extremely worn Base Set Charizard could be at least a 3. Now, I think I might be lucky if I'd get a 2. Thanks for this little guide, also thanks for re-uploading it in 4k and with even more info!!
If a card is close to flawless in all aspects except for surface (some light scratching), will that make it an automatic 5/6 or will it receive something in the 7-8 range for having most all the qualities of a 9/10 but not having a great surface?
Thanks so much for making this video. I love how you took the time to go through all the grades, that you were going over the imperfections of each one, how still you were holding the cards, and that you made a split screen with one side being the card and the other, the grade, much appreciated. Haha, also, the last time I saw so many Zards in one place, owned by one person, was in Pawn Stars ;) Congrats.
After this my card's looking like a 3, maybe even a 2. But I still want to do it, it's a desirable card and one of my childhood favs. Thanks for useful visual info.
This may be an "update" from the original back from 2017. However, the microphone quality is worse. Is there a reason? Maybe it is just me. Thank you for the update, regardless. Is this descriptive detailing of each grade level ON the PSA site?
Great video,I was hoping you would talk about the grading on this exact card! I have 40 that I bought 2 months back , one I pulled from along pack 2 weeks back , you should do a research video on how many you think exist, I think maybe 150,000 charizards my exist , possibly less
I reckon it would be sweet do work out how many Charizards from base set were created. Unfortunately, without access to WOTC staff or any data they might have, it would be really hard to work that number out. One can hope though.
I went through a lot of my old holofoil cards (Unlimited Base Set, 1st Edition/Unlimited Jungle, Fossil, Rocket, Gym, Neo), and it looks like a lot of them have some holo scratches and edge whitening that could pull them down to the PSA 4-7 range. In the past, it probably would've been best to sell them raw as Light/Moderate Played, but since the spike, I'm noticing a lot of even mid-range PSA rated cards going for big bucks (and WAY more than the raw versions, even ones listed as Near Mint), when before it would've just been the Base Set 1st Edition holos that would've been worth grading in that condition. I'm thinking of sending my stuff in even if I know it's going to get sub-optimal grades, and I've been noticing a lot of back and forth discourse from collectors over whether or not that's a good idea. Do you have a take on whether or not it's good to get sub-optimal cards graded in the current market?
Do you mean getting a card graded that could come back as a PSA 6? If its WoTC / a holo then I would say its worth it in the long run. Even with the wait times at PSA, you cannot go wrong with getting Base Holos graded haha. I know I will be grading more in the future.
@@Gav1337 Yeah, I mean PSA 6 or hereabouts. All of my cards are WOTC (in fact, all my cards are pre-Legendary Collection, which bums me out a bit because I wish I'd have stuck it out until Skyridge). Some of them are in really good shape, so I'm hoping I can swing a decent amount of 8-10s, but I have a feeling most will come back lower. I figure it's worth it to get them graded anyway, fingers crossed that they come back with good grades!
Hi man, I was wondering, I have a generations holo (20th anniversary) which is almost flawless on the front but quite a lot of scuffs on the back. Could you give a rough estimate on what grade would be?
They are sweet, aren't they! th-cam.com/video/GW2J938BSq4/w-d-xo.html I am currently building a PSA 1 Poor Base Set - You can check out the progress in the video above. So close to finishing it! If you haven't already, smash the subscribe button. Got a couple of low grade videos coming out shortly!
Yeah some people actually collect PSA 1's, maybe just because they are so reminiscent of actual play, not to mention costing a lot less? It really does give them the vintage look. I have a PSA 2-ish Charizard shadowless from my childhood I am gonna get graded. Really curious how it turns out, might eventually sell it. It looks not terrible overall, save for a nasty 1" scratch on the tongue. That's what's holding it back from getting a 3 I imagine.
@@MasiukA Definitely get it into the system. With the way things are at the moment, its better to start the process sooner rather than later. Apparently PSA are getting 60,000 new cards in each day. No wonder they are so far backed up lol.
@@Gav1337 Dang! Yeah, I checked their site and saw they had a backup warning. Btw - If I put pics here would you give me your opinion? This is quite new to me. I'm guessing it's around a 2. The back has some edge whitening that might be hard to see with the lighting, and a light crease through the Charmeleon. ibb.co/m9bNpx4 ibb.co/z64QphF
I have a card I don't know how to "grade" It is an evolutions charizard reverse holo, it is definitely off centered fairy bad, but I have seen 9s with the same cantering. The corners and edges are 100% perfect. The front of the card has scratches on the revolves foil part, not to bad but a fair few verticle lines. The scratches aren't really noticeable unless you look for them, but if you do that are easily noticeable. What do you think?
Hello, what about visible pressure marks in one area (when looking onto the card with perfect light)? And when the rest of the card is perfect? Nobody talks about pressure marks at all when grading.
I have some first edition Holo's including Mewtwo. It seems to be in pretty good condition, with a few knicks on the back, no silvering, and good alignment. My question is there seems to be a fair bit of light scratches in the holo. How much will this effect the grade? Also, does it make sense to send in even the common cards for grading even if I do not think they will get a 9/10? Thanks so much for your help!
Its hard to tell without seeing the card in person. I would say a safe grade would be PSA 6-7 based on condition. Maybe 8 if you get a good grader. Try and compare with the cards in the video. As for sending in commons / uncommons / trainers / energies etc. If you want to go for a complete PSA graded set, then by all means. If you want to grade just the cards you feel would benefit from being in cases, then do that. Collecting is about your goals. Don't collect something because someone tells you to. Do what 'you' want to do. If you want to chase just Caterpie's, then do that. It will make you far happier doing your own thing than following everyone else ;)
@@Gav1337 Hi thanks so much for the response you are too kind!! My main goal is honestly to sell them and make the most profit cause I am a poor art student at the moment and it would really help me out! I see that having it graded you for the most part will at least make a profit off of them compared to just selling them ungraded. Would you agree? I am a bit worried that the market is going to go bust before I get them back from grading... :/ I am also planning on using CGC mostly due to the fact that they have a quicker turn around, but am a bit worried about resell value
I want to own my first graded pokemon cards soon. Its really hard to get a feeling for an ungraded card on ebay. This video helped :) Funny how you said some of the prices in the 2017 video and seeing them now skyrocket.
Glad this video has helped so many people. Never expected it to get this many views. As for the prices, if we could all go back in time and grab more, I don't think anyone would say no haha. If you haven't already, smash the subscribe button and help the channel out! ^_^
I've got a Base set Shadowless Charizard sent out for grading a week ago, it might come back in like 6 months though. I think that it might come back a 3 maybe a 4 according to the info and comparisons of the video you made. Not sure what it might be worth if it comes back at a low grade, but I'm still happy to own one. Thank you, very informative. :)
You would be surprised. Some of the lower grades still pull decent cash. It's all about what someone is willing to pay for it 😉 If you havrnt already, smash the like and subscribe buttons to help support the channel! Some great content coming up shortly!
I noticed you mentioned warped cards, how much does that affect the value? Mostly holos get warped because of dry or humid climates, and temperatues as well. There are ways you could de-warp the cards though right?
I‘ve got a base set Dark blastoise holo but it has a max of grade 6/7 and Some other nice cards with the same max of grade is it worth to let them grade?
Ultimately up to you. Look at sold listings on eBay and see what the price of the card would pull if you were to grade and sell it. If its worth doing, why not!
Question, if the card is pristine on the front and the only issue are scuffs and minor whitening from the back what do you think is it's grading range?
Been comparing my card to some on ebay looks on par with some 7s and then also some 4s. So annoying will just send it and hope for the best seeing as its a charizard its worth something either way I guess
It is hard to tell sometimes, but realistically, its worth getting graded. Not only does it prove that it is a legitimate card, if you choose to sell it down the road, it has the added premium of being graded. At worst, it is encapsulated and cannot get damaged in the future.
@@Gav1337 Would you grade any holos from base set that don't have major scratching or damage? I have some that I think would be PSA 5-8. But likely 6/7 since there are light scratching and very light whitening on some areas. I didn't check carefully on centering. But shipping costs to and from PSA, and the fee would really add up. Do you only grade the rarest cards? My rarest cards are blastoise base set, lugia neo destinies, dark typhlosion, and some trainer set holos from way back.
@@taylorrestall6717 If you want to preserve and don't care about resell value, then any grading company would be ok in my eyes. If you plan on selling in the future, PSA is definitely the way to go. As for what to grade, Base will always be OG. Ultimately up to you what you grade, but if it was me, I would look up the value of each card at its rough PSA grade and see whether its worth going down the grading lane or not. It will take a while for PSA to grade them as well, due to the backlog, so take that into consideration as well. Let me know what you decide!
Hey I'm not into Pokemon cards, but I do porter work and I found a set of Pokemon cards. In it, I found a PSA 9 holographic dark Charizard mint and I was wondering how much would it be worth? Considering I found it I would make a profit regardless. Thanks for the help in advance
@@smallcirclemvp5228 Your welcome man! Hope it gave you a solid price? If you haven't already, smash that sub button. Got some videos coming out in the next couple of weeks ^_^
For an evo 2016 holo charizard, should I worry about print lines ? I pulled one the other day and I’m really stressing about the grade I’m going to get
So I have a 1996 jp alakazam and I think it gonna be a nine grade because all it has a small whiting like u could barley see it the only way to see it better is if u put the card close enough so u can see it. But my question is it gonna be a9 or 8.5
PSA use a bunch of different tools and techniques to grade a card through 2 different graders hands. If you can see it up close, they definitely can see it. I'd be leaning towards it affecting the cards overall grade.
So you said that any card with a crease in it will get a 6 or lower... I have a shiny Charizard GX from Hidden Fates. The front is absolutely pristine. Centering appears perfect. Corners are crisp and clear with no whitening... *But* I think I may have creased it just the tiniest bit once. We're talking a fold mark so slight that even I can barely see it when I look for it... Would it then still likely score no higher than a 6? :S
The general rule is if it has a crease, the grade gets dropped as it detracts from the overall appeal of the card. I couldn't say 110% it will score a 6 but if it has a crease, it will lower the grade. The only real way to find out is to submit it. If you submit and are unhappy, you can always crack it out and leave it as a raw card.
@@Gav1337 It's just that in this case, the crease in question is SO minor that I wouldn't say it even detracts from the overall appeal. Though I definitely still died a little when it happened. And yeah, I have definitely considered sending it in, but the thing is, I've heard something about particularly sought-after cards like Charizards being also particularly *expensive to grade?* But I've not gotten a really clear answer as to how expensive we're talking.
@@thelordstarfish Fair enough So when your filling out the submission form, if you 'think' your card is worth x value, then you need to submit at the correct level. Lets say a card Charizard card could pull the PSA Gem Mint 10. If i was to sell said card, i could get $1,000 for it. I would need to submit my raw card at a service level that would meet that. Example I could do 'service level a' [valued for cards between $500 to $1,500 worth of value]. Putting the card in at the wrong submission level and declared its value lower than it really is can be dangerous. If the card gets wrecked, PSA will only pay out 'up to' what you declared. They will take into account the market and what similar cards have sold for before offering you a price they think is 'fair'
Question I bought some recent cards and they were stored in pocket sleeves. There is discoloring patches on the backs of the card since the pocket sleeves wrinkled and left those stains. Should I grade them?
@@MasiukA the 1st edition cards will always be hot...there is a glut of unlimited cards being processed now though, so the value of anything below PSA7/7.5 will likely plummet for those, at least temporarily.
I have a 1999 charizard holo but it's saying that the card will cost like 1000 on the website is there a way around that or am I understanding it wrong
It depends on the value of the card. The cheapest service for a single card is Economy at $50, which is for cards valued at $999 or less. You could also look into CGC or Beckett. Depends whether this is to sell or to keep.
I think my charizard would be a 4 or 5. Anybody know what “declares value” I should enter for that? I’ve never graded a card before but thinking about doing it
Declare the value at what the card is worth 'after' its graded. If its worth a maximum of $1,200 if it pulls a certain grade, then do it at that level. If the card gets damaged at PSA, they will pay out the declared value [after look at the market etc]. If you under declare and it gets damaged, they will only consider what the declared value was. Ebay sold listings in the place to check for prices
@@SickoFlare If they are base set, it could be worth checking sold listings on eBay to gauge what previous ones have sold for. Weigh that up against the cost of grading and it might be worth doing. I'd say no to base set 2 at this point in time. Hasn't done as well as Base original.
What do you think of the CGA grading in Australia? Does this hold up any credibility? Seems like sending anything to the States these days will take forever do come back.
What about a card that just has rough edges (like whitening) but does not have any wear to the surface, any scratches and the foil still looks shiny and newer
That’s what a few of mine are like. I’m thinking maybe a 6-7, depending how much wear is on the edges? But I’ll see how mine are once I get them back. I sent them to Beckett this past week.
It's the ratio of the border thickness from each side (left to right, top to bottom). 90/10 would be extremely off centered and getting closer to 50/50 would be good centering.
Its only valuable if someone is willing to pay the price you are asking [or near that price]. I collect PSA 1s as its something different to add to my collection.
This video was filmed before the price rise. The best option to get accurate prices at this point is to go to sold listings on eBay and see what each grade that your interested in is going for ^_^
I have a 10/62 holo lapras that has very minimal whiting on the back but a tiny speck thingy on the lapras picture and a little bit of tiny scratches on the card how good would this be?
Does 90/10 mean what I think it means? A ratio of 9 to 1? That seems like insane. I feel like if you have a card that has a worse ratio than 9 to 1 then it should be worth more because that is so insane.
@@darrenchua8951 If you crack them open, then yes, but its a one way trip. Once you go forward with cracking it open, only way to get it back in is to re-submit to PSA.
Nope. Its worth a little bit of $$ - if you want to sell, throw it up on eBay or other marketplaces. Check sold listings before hand to get an idea of its rough price point.
@@Gav1337 oh cool I just started collecting again I feel like it's 99/00 again lol I'm just gonna collect as much old cards as I can who knows maybe in another twenty years they be worth more 🤑
Do it for the love of the cards. Don't follow what x, y and z say. Follow your gut. If you think it will look good in the collection, purchase it. Don't buy someone just cause someone else said to do so. 😉
@@Gav1337 It's a charizard. Clean back, clean front, quite centred to my eyes. But has typically vertical lines when under a bright light. When in natural light it can been seen
@@anton-ello If you can see scratches in normal light, then unfortunately it will take away from the overall end grade at PSA. If 'everything' else on the card is perfect apart from the print lines, you could be looking at a mint 9 grade!
50/50 would be absolute perfect centering. 90/10 centering left to right would leave one side 90% of total border thickness and one side only 10%. This would give the appearance of having a super thick border on the left and a super skinny border on the right. Hope that helps.
You can give a 1-10 for each of the four grades to see if you think its worth it: 1. Centering (vertical and horizontal) 2. Edges 3. Corners 4. Surfaces
Don’t need to collect the old cards if i still have them. Just kidding i gave mine away for free almost a decade ago cause im dumb.(i know for a fact i had a unlimited holographic chansey from base set or base set 2.and it wasn’t in bad condition).my brother still has like 300 cards though from the older sets(mostly unlimited versions and 2 promo pikachus).we also use to have some of the topps cards.including the holo moltres but we have no idea what happened to those(might have been with my cards).
@@horrorkidunlimited1473 Collect what you want to collect, not what everyone else tells you to. I'm just lucky that I had these for years before the price spikes.
@@jboyce92 PSA is only for flippers and people who have low standards of card quality imo. I have perfect 10 CGC cards that I would personally rate a 9.0 Honestly I wish there were a company out there with higher standards, but CGC and BGS will have to do I suppose.
![ไลฟ์สุ่ม iPhone 295 บาท... โกงมั้ย?[ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.97 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gdstHEE4UUE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you now I know all my cards will have a max of grade 3
Even if they are low grades, it 'could' be worth grading them. Depends what set/s they are from?
@@Gav1337 2017 sun and moon others 2019. Can cards go down in value by getting a low psa grade?
@@howlfl4r386 Depends on what the card is / what set, but if it pulls a low grade, some cards are better off just being sold as a raw card instead of graded. Chances are, if its not a popular card, you could lose out on the grading fee + selling it = loss.
All about spending the time to research what a card could go for IF it achieved a good grade.
@@Gav1337 I not doing it to sell it but I still want a good grade I’m thinking about 2017 Lycanroc GX SM14. It’s not a lot of white but the centering is horrible!
Edit: Oh and it’s from the Lycanroc midday booster box
@@howlfl4r386 If its to preserve it, then get it graded. Worth it in the long run. Knowing they are safe ;)
This video really made me understand how the grading system works. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Hopefully you can use it when submitting raw cards in the future :)
This was a really in-depth and cool insight on what a typical grader might look for. Thank you for this :)
Glad it was helpful! Planning on doing a couple more videos in the near future and turning this into a sort of mini-series. If you haven't already, hit the subscribe button to stay tuned ;).
I like the text on the side. Thank you for updating video. Just watched the other one couple months back.
Your welcome! I plan on filming a couple of individual graded cards in each grade to give viewers a clearer picture of 'what a PSA 2 looks like' etc. Stay tuned for that [hit the subscribe button ^_^]
I subscribed and yes would definitely want to learn and see the differences of grades 4-7. Especially focusing on the backs. Thank you for the content and keep doing a great job.
Does having scratches on the card automatically bump it down to a 6? I got a Leafeong Level X, and Dark Persian that I want to grade, but both have visible scratches upon close inspection. Not from far away. And they both have whitening as well.
Not automatically bumping it down to a PSA 6, but PSA check the whole condition of the card. So if everything else was perfect apart from maybe a scratch, then it theory it could score a PSA Mint 9. Depends on the individual card.
Could you do a video sending the same card to all the companies to see if they all grade close to each other please? Great content btw!
That is something that I have been throwing around in my head. Just with the way grading is now-a-days, it could be moths, more likely years before I see and sort of returns. That said, it is not off the table!
Lol, before watching this video, I thought my extremely worn Base Set Charizard could be at least a 3. Now, I think I might be lucky if I'd get a 2. Thanks for this little guide, also thanks for re-uploading it in 4k and with even more info!!
Did you end up getting the Charizard graded?
If a card is close to flawless in all aspects except for surface (some light scratching), will that make it an automatic 5/6 or will it receive something in the 7-8 range for having most all the qualities of a 9/10 but not having a great surface?
Surface issue should take it down a point or two lower
Thanks so much for making this video. I love how you took the time to go through all the grades, that you were going over the imperfections of each one, how still you were holding the cards, and that you made a split screen with one side being the card and the other, the grade, much appreciated.
Haha, also, the last time I saw so many Zards in one place, owned by one person, was in Pawn Stars ;) Congrats.
After this my card's looking like a 3, maybe even a 2. But I still want to do it, it's a desirable card and one of my childhood favs. Thanks for useful visual info.
Regardless of grade, if its valuable to you, go for it. Not always about making $$
This may be an "update" from the original back from 2017. However, the microphone quality is worse. Is there a reason? Maybe it is just me. Thank you for the update, regardless. Is this descriptive detailing of each grade level ON the PSA site?
Thanks, about to start grading my vintage wizards of the coast cards as well as the hits I have from some recent releases.
Great video,I was hoping you would talk about the grading on this exact card! I have 40 that I bought 2 months back , one I pulled from along pack 2 weeks back , you should do a research video on how many you think exist, I think maybe 150,000 charizards my exist , possibly less
I reckon it would be sweet do work out how many Charizards from base set were created. Unfortunately, without access to WOTC staff or any data they might have, it would be really hard to work that number out. One can hope though.
I went through a lot of my old holofoil cards (Unlimited Base Set, 1st Edition/Unlimited Jungle, Fossil, Rocket, Gym, Neo), and it looks like a lot of them have some holo scratches and edge whitening that could pull them down to the PSA 4-7 range. In the past, it probably would've been best to sell them raw as Light/Moderate Played, but since the spike, I'm noticing a lot of even mid-range PSA rated cards going for big bucks (and WAY more than the raw versions, even ones listed as Near Mint), when before it would've just been the Base Set 1st Edition holos that would've been worth grading in that condition. I'm thinking of sending my stuff in even if I know it's going to get sub-optimal grades, and I've been noticing a lot of back and forth discourse from collectors over whether or not that's a good idea. Do you have a take on whether or not it's good to get sub-optimal cards graded in the current market?
Do you mean getting a card graded that could come back as a PSA 6? If its WoTC / a holo then I would say its worth it in the long run. Even with the wait times at PSA, you cannot go wrong with getting Base Holos graded haha. I know I will be grading more in the future.
@@Gav1337 Yeah, I mean PSA 6 or hereabouts. All of my cards are WOTC (in fact, all my cards are pre-Legendary Collection, which bums me out a bit because I wish I'd have stuck it out until Skyridge). Some of them are in really good shape, so I'm hoping I can swing a decent amount of 8-10s, but I have a feeling most will come back lower. I figure it's worth it to get them graded anyway, fingers crossed that they come back with good grades!
Shouldnt PSA 6 be EX-NM?
Awesome video 🔥
Yeah they label them weirdly. Just like how a psa 2 is "good" boggles my mind
Thank you for this video. I have a collection of 1999 cards that I was thinking of getting grades and found your video to be very helpful.
I am glad you liked it! Make sure if you haven't already to hit the subscribe button. Got a couple of low end grade PSA videos coming out shortly!
Hi man, I was wondering, I have a generations holo (20th anniversary) which is almost flawless on the front but quite a lot of scuffs on the back. Could you give a rough estimate on what grade would be?
For some reason, the PSA 1 looks pretty sweet
They are sweet, aren't they!
th-cam.com/video/GW2J938BSq4/w-d-xo.html
I am currently building a PSA 1 Poor Base Set - You can check out the progress in the video above. So close to finishing it!
If you haven't already, smash the subscribe button. Got a couple of low grade videos coming out shortly!
Yeah some people actually collect PSA 1's, maybe just because they are so reminiscent of actual play, not to mention costing a lot less? It really does give them the vintage look. I have a PSA 2-ish Charizard shadowless from my childhood I am gonna get graded. Really curious how it turns out, might eventually sell it. It looks not terrible overall, save for a nasty 1" scratch on the tongue. That's what's holding it back from getting a 3 I imagine.
@@MasiukA Definitely get it into the system. With the way things are at the moment, its better to start the process sooner rather than later. Apparently PSA are getting 60,000 new cards in each day. No wonder they are so far backed up lol.
@@Gav1337 Dang! Yeah, I checked their site and saw they had a backup warning. Btw - If I put pics here would you give me your opinion? This is quite new to me. I'm guessing it's around a 2. The back has some edge whitening that might be hard to see with the lighting, and a light crease through the Charmeleon.
ibb.co/m9bNpx4
ibb.co/z64QphF
I have a card I don't know how to "grade" It is an evolutions charizard reverse holo, it is definitely off centered fairy bad, but I have seen 9s with the same cantering. The corners and edges are 100% perfect. The front of the card has scratches on the revolves foil part, not to bad but a fair few verticle lines. The scratches aren't really noticeable unless you look for them, but if you do that are easily noticeable. What do you think?
Hello, what about visible pressure marks in one area (when looking onto the card with perfect light)? And when the rest of the card is perfect? Nobody talks about pressure marks at all when grading.
I have some first edition Holo's including Mewtwo. It seems to be in pretty good condition, with a few knicks on the back, no silvering, and good alignment. My question is there seems to be a fair bit of light scratches in the holo. How much will this effect the grade? Also, does it make sense to send in even the common cards for grading even if I do not think they will get a 9/10? Thanks so much for your help!
Its hard to tell without seeing the card in person. I would say a safe grade would be PSA 6-7 based on condition. Maybe 8 if you get a good grader. Try and compare with the cards in the video.
As for sending in commons / uncommons / trainers / energies etc. If you want to go for a complete PSA graded set, then by all means. If you want to grade just the cards you feel would benefit from being in cases, then do that.
Collecting is about your goals. Don't collect something because someone tells you to. Do what 'you' want to do. If you want to chase just Caterpie's, then do that. It will make you far happier doing your own thing than following everyone else ;)
@@Gav1337 Hi thanks so much for the response you are too kind!! My main goal is honestly to sell them and make the most profit cause I am a poor art student at the moment and it would really help me out! I see that having it graded you for the most part will at least make a profit off of them compared to just selling them ungraded. Would you agree? I am a bit worried that the market is going to go bust before I get them back from grading... :/ I am also planning on using CGC mostly due to the fact that they have a quicker turn around, but am a bit worried about resell value
I want to own my first graded pokemon cards soon. Its really hard to get a feeling for an ungraded card on ebay. This video helped :) Funny how you said some of the prices in the 2017 video and seeing them now skyrocket.
Glad this video has helped so many people. Never expected it to get this many views. As for the prices, if we could all go back in time and grab more, I don't think anyone would say no haha.
If you haven't already, smash the subscribe button and help the channel out! ^_^
thanks i was looking for a video like this. cant believe how hard it was to find
I got dragapult vmax on my last video, How much will it be worth now?
Good video. Seems like PSA 4 is where it starts to be worth to collect for old cards, unless you only care for mint cards.
Any Zard at the moment from Base is worth a good chunk $$$
Even a PSA 1 charizard seems to go for hundreds. Shadowless even more. There was a PSA 1 that went for $1500 not that long ago.
@@MasiukA I've sold a couple of PSA 1s for a decent profit. They do look amazing in their cases, even if damaged.
I've got a Base set Shadowless Charizard sent out for grading a week ago, it might come back in like 6 months though. I think that it might come back a 3 maybe a 4 according to the info and comparisons of the video you made. Not sure what it might be worth if it comes back at a low grade, but I'm still happy to own one. Thank you, very informative. :)
You would be surprised. Some of the lower grades still pull decent cash. It's all about what someone is willing to pay for it 😉
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How much did you pay for it to be graded I have the same one
It's saying like it's a 1000 dollars for a card worth that much to be apraised
I noticed you mentioned warped cards, how much does that affect the value? Mostly holos get warped because of dry or humid climates, and temperatues as well. There are ways you could de-warp the cards though right?
Typically they don't affect the grade unless it is incredibly warped, or is creasing which automatically drops it to a 4 or lower.
Thanks for this. So so useful.
Glad it was helpful!
Do they grade the centering L/R or T/B? Or do they grade by both L/R and T/B for the overall centering?
Both, more for right left though
Wow makes me feel a lot more hopeful thanks for the perfect example to compare
Your welcome! Make sure you hit the subscribe button to support the channel! :)
I‘ve got a base set Dark blastoise holo but it has a max of grade 6/7 and Some other nice cards with the same max of grade is it worth to let them grade?
Ultimately up to you. Look at sold listings on eBay and see what the price of the card would pull if you were to grade and sell it. If its worth doing, why not!
Question, if the card is pristine on the front and the only issue are scuffs and minor whitening from the back what do you think is it's grading range?
Also, your eBay link doesn't seem to work. Any chance you could update it to be correct?
I have a psa 10 with little whiting on 3 of 4 of the corners that are bare minimum. You think it was a missgrade by psa ?
Been comparing my card to some on ebay looks on par with some 7s and then also some 4s. So annoying will just send it and hope for the best seeing as its a charizard its worth something either way I guess
It is hard to tell sometimes, but realistically, its worth getting graded. Not only does it prove that it is a legitimate card, if you choose to sell it down the road, it has the added premium of being graded. At worst, it is encapsulated and cannot get damaged in the future.
@@Gav1337 Would you grade any holos from base set that don't have major scratching or damage? I have some that I think would be PSA 5-8. But likely 6/7 since there are light scratching and very light whitening on some areas. I didn't check carefully on centering. But shipping costs to and from PSA, and the fee would really add up. Do you only grade the rarest cards? My rarest cards are blastoise base set, lugia neo destinies, dark typhlosion, and some trainer set holos from way back.
I also have lightly played decks from base set. Can you PSA grade them? They are very lightly played
@@taylorrestall6717 If you want to preserve and don't care about resell value, then any grading company would be ok in my eyes. If you plan on selling in the future, PSA is definitely the way to go.
As for what to grade, Base will always be OG. Ultimately up to you what you grade, but if it was me, I would look up the value of each card at its rough PSA grade and see whether its worth going down the grading lane or not. It will take a while for PSA to grade them as well, due to the backlog, so take that into consideration as well.
Let me know what you decide!
Hey I'm not into Pokemon cards, but I do porter work and I found a set of Pokemon cards. In it, I found a PSA 9 holographic dark Charizard mint and I was wondering how much would it be worth? Considering I found it I would make a profit regardless. Thanks for the help in advance
Check eBay sold listings in your area and it will give you a ball park figure ^_^
@@Gav1337 hey thanks and good luck to you bro!
@@smallcirclemvp5228 Your welcome man! Hope it gave you a solid price? If you haven't already, smash that sub button. Got some videos coming out in the next couple of weeks ^_^
@@smallcirclemvp5228 hey I’m just curious. Did you end up selling the card, and if so, what did it sell for?
That last card is a 10, even with the scratch going thru flame?? Nices tho and I really appreciate this video
For an evo 2016 holo charizard, should I worry about print lines ? I pulled one the other day and I’m really stressing about the grade I’m going to get
Normally PSA can give a 9 if its manufacturing print lines and rest of card has no nicks or real bad centering.
So I have a 1996 jp alakazam and I think it gonna be a nine grade because all it has a small whiting like u could barley see it the only way to see it better is if u put the card close enough so u can see it. But my question is it gonna be a9 or 8.5
PSA use a bunch of different tools and techniques to grade a card through 2 different graders hands. If you can see it up close, they definitely can see it. I'd be leaning towards it affecting the cards overall grade.
thanks dude just pulled out my old collection and got a few god cards if they get graded well. got a Charizard in there looks like about an 8
Solid man. Should consider grading them ^_^
Very educational and straight to the point. Thank you!!!!
So you said that any card with a crease in it will get a 6 or lower...
I have a shiny Charizard GX from Hidden Fates. The front is absolutely pristine. Centering appears perfect. Corners are crisp and clear with no whitening... *But* I think I may have creased it just the tiniest bit once. We're talking a fold mark so slight that even I can barely see it when I look for it...
Would it then still likely score no higher than a 6? :S
The general rule is if it has a crease, the grade gets dropped as it detracts from the overall appeal of the card. I couldn't say 110% it will score a 6 but if it has a crease, it will lower the grade. The only real way to find out is to submit it.
If you submit and are unhappy, you can always crack it out and leave it as a raw card.
@@Gav1337 It's just that in this case, the crease in question is SO minor that I wouldn't say it even detracts from the overall appeal. Though I definitely still died a little when it happened. And yeah, I have definitely considered sending it in, but the thing is, I've heard something about particularly sought-after cards like Charizards being also particularly *expensive to grade?* But I've not gotten a really clear answer as to how expensive we're talking.
@@thelordstarfish Fair enough
So when your filling out the submission form, if you 'think' your card is worth x value, then you need to submit at the correct level.
Lets say a card Charizard card could pull the PSA Gem Mint 10. If i was to sell said card, i could get $1,000 for it. I would need to submit my raw card at a service level that would meet that. Example I could do 'service level a' [valued for cards between $500 to $1,500 worth of value].
Putting the card in at the wrong submission level and declared its value lower than it really is can be dangerous. If the card gets wrecked, PSA will only pay out 'up to' what you declared. They will take into account the market and what similar cards have sold for before offering you a price they think is 'fair'
Question I bought some recent cards and they were stored in pocket sleeves. There is discoloring patches on the backs of the card since the pocket sleeves wrinkled and left those stains. Should I grade them?
Should do a follow up vid for how much you paid for them back in 2017 etc. compared to current market value :P
Don't put it past me. Maybe I will haha
It's actually insane how much they have inflated in value in the last few years. I am curious what they'll be in another few years.
@@MasiukA Aren't we all! lol
Also, if you haven't already, smash the subscribe button for me and help out the channel ^_^
@@MasiukA the 1st edition cards will always be hot...there is a glut of unlimited cards being processed now though, so the value of anything below PSA7/7.5 will likely plummet for those, at least temporarily.
I have a card witch is completely offcentered but the rest of the card is pretty clean what u think would it be if I grade it?
If everything else is perfect except for the centering, the max grade it would get would be a PSA 9 [OC grade]
A PSA 9 and 10 are so close. It must be awful to get a 9 when on any other day it could be considered a 10 lol
Depends on the graders lol
Do we get a report on our cards or just the slab and grade
Just the slab and the grade. PSA do not do sub-grades.
If my card has a few creases and a small scratch on the back what would it be rated?
3
I have a 1999 charizard holo but it's saying that the card will cost like 1000 on the website is there a way around that or am I understanding it wrong
It depends on the value of the card. The cheapest service for a single card is Economy at $50, which is for cards valued at $999 or less.
You could also look into CGC or Beckett. Depends whether this is to sell or to keep.
I have an ancient mew card that has 2 slight bends. what grade could it get?
please reply
Depends what you mean by “bends.” Creases? Corner wear?
So if I have old base set 2 holos that are probably gonna get 3-5 should I still have them submitted
just picked up this card and a bunch of base set holos for 500. mine looks like 4-5. good money there!
Grade, grade, grade!
@@Gav1337 forgot to mention im pickong up another set with another near mint char. Easily a 7! All for 300 bucks!
@@yourmanzach2307 I'd say a solid profit on that then!
@@Gav1337 and picking up another set today for 300. He has a charizard at least a 7! Im no pumped
@@yourmanzach2307 Sounds like a nice little profit coming your way!
I got a psa gem mint 10 Fernando Attis jr rookie card (baseball card).
I think my charizard would be a 4 or 5. Anybody know what “declares value” I should enter for that? I’ve never graded a card before but thinking about doing it
Declare the value at what the card is worth 'after' its graded. If its worth a maximum of $1,200 if it pulls a certain grade, then do it at that level. If the card gets damaged at PSA, they will pay out the declared value [after look at the market etc]. If you under declare and it gets damaged, they will only consider what the declared value was. Ebay sold listings in the place to check for prices
how about a big dent on a charizard, centering is not good but everything else is good? can that constitute a 8?
A dent drops it pretty much down to a PSA 6 straight away.
Gives me hope my charizard might get psa9
Get it graded! Who knows, it might come back a 10 :D
I have a base set mewtwo holo that is 100% a 1. Wish it was a little better considering how much it is
Even in a PSA 1, a Base Holo is still worth grading. I'd personally get it graded ;)
@@Gav1337 Im not sure if its base set or not but I have a few wartortle's base set 2 that look like a 3-4 do you think those are worth grading?
@@SickoFlare If they are base set, it could be worth checking sold listings on eBay to gauge what previous ones have sold for. Weigh that up against the cost of grading and it might be worth doing. I'd say no to base set 2 at this point in time. Hasn't done as well as Base original.
What do you think of the CGA grading in Australia? Does this hold up any credibility? Seems like sending anything to the States these days will take forever do come back.
What about a card that just has rough edges (like whitening) but does not have any wear to the surface, any scratches and the foil still looks shiny and newer
That’s what a few of mine are like. I’m thinking maybe a 6-7, depending how much wear is on the edges? But I’ll see how mine are once I get them back. I sent them to Beckett this past week.
I may have a 8-9 reverse hollow charizard from 2016 on my hands 😃😃😃
Great vid man
Cheers mate!
great video
Thanks!
so what is the meaning of 80/20 or 90/10 etc??
It's the ratio of the border thickness from each side (left to right, top to bottom). 90/10 would be extremely off centered and getting closer to 50/50 would be good centering.
@@SparkizardGarfield ok ty!
I have fossil geodude but it have white things all Over sides of The back :/
Great vid very helpful!
are psa 1 cards valuable if there ant many other psa 1s of a specific card?
Its only valuable if someone is willing to pay the price you are asking [or near that price]. I collect PSA 1s as its something different to add to my collection.
How did you get all these charizards
Purchased or graded myself over time.
Can you price them from 1-10? like
1-$1
2-$5
3-$20 and so on? plz
This video was filmed before the price rise. The best option to get accurate prices at this point is to go to sold listings on eBay and see what each grade that your interested in is going for ^_^
the price varies for every card, a psa 10 of an unpopular card could be less than a psa 8 of a sought after one
I have a 10/62 holo lapras that has very minimal whiting on the back but a tiny speck thingy on the lapras picture and a little bit of tiny scratches on the card how good would this be?
Does 90/10 mean what I think it means? A ratio of 9 to 1? That seems like insane. I feel like if you have a card that has a worse ratio than 9 to 1 then it should be worth more because that is so insane.
Worth what someone is willing to pay ;)
so psa is not just for mint condition.though only cards like that charizard would even be worth having a psa 1-5 of.
PSA will grade any card so long as it is real and not been altered. If you want it in your collection, get it graded.
As soon as you pull a card from a pack is it psa 8 or 9 or zero?
@@jboyce92 makes sense this means all my cards cap out at about 8 or 8.5 one being 9
@@jboyce92 l
@@jboyce92 k*
THIS WAS AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!
Cheers mate! If you haven't already, smash the subscribe button for more content in the future :)
thank you for your information.
You are welcome
That’s quite a collection. Are u interested in selling them
Possible in the future. Haven't really thought about selling. Are you looking at anything specific?
so how do i know if centering is within the grading criteria?
I think there are little centering templates you can buy. They’re clear and you put it over a card to see how it measures.
This ^ eBay and some card stores will sell them, but they are 3rd party and not endorsed by PSA.
Can the cards be taken out after grading ?
You mean out of the PSA Slabs or the wall frame?
@@Gav1337 out of the psa frame
@@darrenchua8951 If you crack them open, then yes, but its a one way trip. Once you go forward with cracking it open, only way to get it back in is to re-submit to PSA.
Is a 1st edition 1999 machamp psa 1.5/2 worthless
Nope. Its worth a little bit of $$ - if you want to sell, throw it up on eBay or other marketplaces. Check sold listings before hand to get an idea of its rough price point.
@@Gav1337 oh cool I just started collecting again I feel like it's 99/00 again lol I'm just gonna collect as much old cards as I can who knows maybe in another twenty years they be worth more 🤑
Do it for the love of the cards. Don't follow what x, y and z say. Follow your gut. If you think it will look good in the collection, purchase it. Don't buy someone just cause someone else said to do so. 😉
What's about the micro scratches on the holo??
Which specific grade are you talking about?
@@Gav1337 It's a charizard. Clean back, clean front, quite centred to my eyes. But has typically vertical lines when under a bright light. When in natural light it can been seen
@@anton-ello If you can see scratches in normal light, then unfortunately it will take away from the overall end grade at PSA. If 'everything' else on the card is perfect apart from the print lines, you could be looking at a mint 9 grade!
@@Gav1337 wow thanks
What do the centering numbers even mean?
Its how PSA use to check the centering of the cards.
50/50 would be absolute perfect centering.
90/10 centering left to right would leave one side 90% of total border thickness and one side only 10%. This would give the appearance of having a super thick border on the left and a super skinny border on the right.
Hope that helps.
@@MarkScott1 appreciate it, thank you!
How much does it cost to get my card psa graded?
If you use a middleman, about $20 AUD. Otherside of Australia, I don't have that answer sorry.
You can give a 1-10 for each of the four grades to see if you think its worth it:
1. Centering (vertical and horizontal)
2. Edges
3. Corners
4. Surfaces
Yo Are The Charizards Real? I Wanna Buy a Psa 7 or 6 If They Are lol
Every single one of them is real. None are for sale though as they are apart of a PSA 1-10 set. Cannot split them up, sorry.
Don’t need to collect the old cards if i still have them. Just kidding i gave mine away for free almost a decade ago cause im dumb.(i know for a fact i had a unlimited holographic chansey from base set or base set 2.and it wasn’t in bad condition).my brother still has like 300 cards though from the older sets(mostly unlimited versions and 2 promo pikachus).we also use to have some of the topps cards.including the holo moltres but we have no idea what happened to those(might have been with my cards).
Ooft
These are in the older cases. PSA has gotten a lot strickter since then.
Yeah. A lot harder now to pull that Gem Mint 10 grade. That said, the value of the 10s is definitely up there, so its worth trying for those 10s.
@@Gav1337 I agree. Base set zards are extremely hard to grade. You are lucky you have one in every single grade.
@@horrorkidunlimited1473 Collect what you want to collect, not what everyone else tells you to. I'm just lucky that I had these for years before the price spikes.
@@Gav1337 Yeah, nice!
@@horrorkidunlimited1473 You got a certain artwork you collect?
and you have to flex those charzards
my shining ho-oh has a max grade 3
Get it graded :D
9:12 doesn’t detract from overall appeal- well this sounds pretty subjective
PSA makes the grading rules, not I ;)
geez, PSA 10 might not even make CGC/BGS 9
@@jboyce92 PSA is only for flippers and people who have low standards of card quality imo.
I have perfect 10 CGC cards that I would personally rate a 9.0
Honestly I wish there were a company out there with higher standards, but CGC and BGS will have to do I suppose.
Sad I sold my two PSA 10 zards in 2013 for $200
L
Ooft
I have a 6
To be honest a gem mint 10 is like a 5
How much does it cost to get a card graded through psa