+monmioamio Thank you so much for letting me know. I really appreciate it. Congratulations with your RZ67, is a very different system and takes a lot of effort to master, but once get the hang of it, you would not want to touch a 35mm ever again.
one tip, the shutter is stored UN-COCKED, as this saves the springs from losing their elasticity, and wrecking the shutter timing, or the lenses ability to fire, at ALL; you hit the silver button, and turn the other two in the sectors away from the green/red dots, this is the "uncocked" position.
Hello Julio, thanks for the video, I have a 110mm mamiya lens, the problem with it is that the lens cap/the ring is stuck, I couldn’t spin the ring to be able to take the cup off, do you have any solution on that?
Thank you so much! I recently purchased an RB67 ProSD with a 90mm K/L lens. I couldn't figure out why the lens was not coming out (it was stuck) and also why couldn't attach the rear cap... It sounds so stupid but it took me watching this video to finally understand why things were not working (even though it's not exactly the same model). The manual is not very clear about these things and most videos assume that we know how to do it. Question: in another video (that I cannot find) someone mentioned that it was important to store the lens with its shutter [.....?.....] to preserve the springs. How is it? The shutter should be closed or open? Thanks again!
How would you change the lens mid roll? I have been putting it in multiple exposure mode, and firing off a shot with the dark slide in, would this be the correct procedure, or could i just crank it in M mode but not worry about firing the shot?
tallaganda83 while you are not in the middle of an exposure there should not be any light spill to the film. (At all). The dark slide would be just a plus. The RM lever matrer doesn’t matter.
just like a dslr, the mirror has a 'baffel' which protects the film, even with the darkslide out!, however you DO have to push the cocking arm down {to un-block the lens bayonet}, for an RB; b for BEE; this is NOT a problem (assuming the MANUAL magasine is installed, turn the power mag OFF, if this is what is on the camera, as the interlock triggers film wind circutry); for RZ, Zed for Zebra!!, you must disconnect the drive ( as you correctly assume, pull the switch to Multi-exposure mode), as the arm IS connected to the film magasine, like a hasselblad 500C/M !!- any movement of the winder, advances the film!!, the only other safe way is like the hasselblad method, place the darkslide in, remove the mag, then ALL movements in the camera are SAFE to do, as the film is removed, you can cock the camera, test fire, ALL SAFELY.
Hello from Paris thank you for all your work with the rz67. I have a question for you, in your opinion what is the optimal aperture/sharpness for the 50mm and the 90 mm ? Thank you again :)
INI J hi thank you so much for your comment and question. Very interesting question. It’s about optics, because the curvature of the lenses usually the most clear and sharp spot, without any aberration or distortion at all would be the center of the image. And for aperture it would be right in the middle, so for the 50mm per example goes from 4.5 to 32 so right in the middle around 11 would be the best point. So I tend to shoot from 8 to 16 unless I’m going for some effects with the dof or I can’t control the light and I have too much or too weak. Of course the size of this lenses make them pretty amazing so don’t need to worry for details that much, I couldn’t probably be able to see the aberrations or distortions on this lenses even if I zoom in 1600% I hope I ease your mind a little.
You aswered very quickly and it's very clear for me thank you. I bought my rz after i have seen your videos and i don't regret it. it's pretty cool to share your knowledge that way. Have a nice day !
I shoot natural light portait, landscape and i prefer street photoraphy but the camera is heavy 😂. I develop and scan at home. That's my first film camera the for the moment i am testing and setting the camera.
Thanks again Julio..why do the lenses need to be cocked or left uncocked? Is it ok to leave the lens cocked long term (no issue) and if so why would it need uncocking?
+Julio Ryuuzaki good to know and glad I asked..when I received my RZ67 the lens' aperture blades were not moving when I turned the aperture ring and wondered if the lens or camera was faulty but realized the lens was just uncocked..in practice do you routinely uncock your lenses after shoots or even between lens changes or since you are working so often you don't bother? I take it the only way to cock or uncock is as shown in this video (taking the lens off and no way to do it without removing the lens)?
+justinspirational no I don't really uncock the lens at all, even for up to half a year of not using the camera. And to uncock it you could just shoot a blank frame and don't wind up the camera. It will leave the mirror and the lens on a resting position.
Hey there Julio. I was wondering if you have any experience with RB lenses on rz pro Ii bodies. I’ve recently bought a sekor c 65 f4.5 lens that was made for the RB67. For whatever reason I can not get the lens off. Do you have any advice?
Dashaun Knight I’ve never used an RB lens in the RZ. All I know is that you use the RBL setting in the speed dial. But a stuck lens “usually” means the lever is not cranked all the way.
Thank you for your timely response. And I’ve made sure that the lever is cranked all the way. The only other thing I can think of is replacing the battery. But thank you for your words. Love the videos!
Maybe some of the security points got stuck, like if you set it up to RBL and trigger and then changed the speed and cranked and try to trigger again, then change to M mode or Emergency Mode. I guess with a certain combination the camera might be tricked to not release the trigger. Another thing is if the lens has a cable release screw with the red line piping out or if it has the T-N lever switched. The only way that it will not let you release the lens is because it thinks is unsafe to let you do that because is trying to protect the film. I would move every button and try to figure if something released the trigger from being “busy”. Thank you for the kind words!
Thanks for sharing. I'm new to the RZ67, my first medium format camera. A lot of things to learn so I found your detailed videos very informative
+monmioamio Thank you so much for letting me know. I really appreciate it. Congratulations with your RZ67, is a very different system and takes a lot of effort to master, but once get the hang of it, you would not want to touch a 35mm ever again.
Congratulations on your first MF Camera. This system has re-shaped my photography for good. Share what you do.
one tip, the shutter is stored UN-COCKED, as this saves the springs from losing their elasticity, and wrecking the shutter timing, or the lenses ability to fire, at ALL; you hit the silver button, and turn the other two in the sectors away from the green/red dots, this is the "uncocked" position.
Hello Julio, thanks for the video, I have a 110mm mamiya lens, the problem with it is that the lens cap/the ring is stuck, I couldn’t spin the ring to be able to take the cup off, do you have any solution on that?
Julio ( RZ67 GURU), What is the switch on the lens with a T that can be moved to cover the green N? Thanks
Rafael Arias The T Lever, used for long exposure, I also made a video about it:
th-cam.com/video/1tVJEd6y548/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much! I recently purchased an RB67 ProSD with a 90mm K/L lens. I couldn't figure out why the lens was not coming out (it was stuck) and also why couldn't attach the rear cap... It sounds so stupid but it took me watching this video to finally understand why things were not working (even though it's not exactly the same model). The manual is not very clear about these things and most videos assume that we know how to do it. Question: in another video (that I cannot find) someone mentioned that it was important to store the lens with its shutter [.....?.....] to preserve the springs. How is it? The shutter should be closed or open? Thanks again!
Can you suggest a digital back for RZ 67 not RZ 67 II. Thanks
How would you change the lens mid roll? I have been putting it in multiple exposure mode, and firing off a shot with the dark slide in, would this be the correct procedure, or could i just crank it in M mode but not worry about firing the shot?
tallaganda83 while you are not in the middle of an exposure there should not be any light spill to the film. (At all). The dark slide would be just a plus. The RM lever matrer doesn’t matter.
just like a dslr, the mirror has a 'baffel' which protects the film, even with the darkslide out!, however you DO have to push the cocking arm down {to un-block the lens bayonet}, for an RB; b for BEE; this is NOT a problem (assuming the MANUAL magasine is installed, turn the power mag OFF, if this is what is on the camera, as the interlock triggers film wind circutry); for RZ, Zed for Zebra!!, you must disconnect the drive ( as you correctly assume, pull the switch to Multi-exposure mode), as the arm IS connected to the film magasine, like a hasselblad 500C/M !!- any movement of the winder, advances the film!!, the only other safe way is like the hasselblad method, place the darkslide in, remove the mag, then ALL movements in the camera are SAFE to do, as the film is removed, you can cock the camera, test fire, ALL SAFELY.
brilliant Video Julio ! thank you ..... you have the best RZ videos !!
Hello from Paris thank you for all your work with the rz67. I have a question for you, in your opinion what is the optimal aperture/sharpness for the 50mm and the 90 mm ? Thank you again :)
INI J hi thank you so much for your comment and question. Very interesting question. It’s about optics, because the curvature of the lenses usually the most clear and sharp spot, without any aberration or distortion at all would be the center of the image. And for aperture it would be right in the middle, so for the 50mm per example goes from 4.5 to 32 so right in the middle around 11 would be the best point. So I tend to shoot from 8 to 16 unless I’m going for some effects with the dof or I can’t control the light and I have too much or too weak. Of course the size of this lenses make them pretty amazing so don’t need to worry for details that much, I couldn’t probably be able to see the aberrations or distortions on this lenses even if I zoom in 1600% I hope I ease your mind a little.
You aswered very quickly and it's very clear for me thank you. I bought my rz after i have seen your videos and i don't regret it. it's pretty cool to share your knowledge that way. Have a nice day !
Oh my seriously! Thats awesome! What do you like to shoot?
I shoot natural light portait, landscape and i prefer street photoraphy but the camera is heavy 😂. I develop and scan at home. That's my first film camera the for the moment i am testing and setting the camera.
Thanks again Julio..why do the lenses need to be cocked or left uncocked? Is it ok to leave the lens cocked long term (no issue) and if so why would it need uncocking?
Lenses have a spring. If left cocked for long time it could become weak.
+Julio Ryuuzaki good to know and glad I asked..when I received my RZ67 the lens' aperture blades were not moving when I turned the aperture ring and wondered if the lens or camera was faulty but realized the lens was just uncocked..in practice do you routinely uncock your lenses after shoots or even between lens changes or since you are working so often you don't bother? I take it the only way to cock or uncock is as shown in this video (taking the lens off and no way to do it without removing the lens)?
+justinspirational no I don't really uncock the lens at all, even for up to half a year of not using the camera. And to uncock it you could just shoot a blank frame and don't wind up the camera. It will leave the mirror and the lens on a resting position.
+Julio Ryuuzaki thank you-fantastic info you are sharing. .making a difference..wishing you infinite success in Japan
+justinspirational it's all about persistence ;)
Hey there Julio. I was wondering if you have any experience with RB lenses on rz pro Ii bodies. I’ve recently bought a sekor c 65 f4.5 lens that was made for the RB67. For whatever reason I can not get the lens off. Do you have any advice?
Dashaun Knight I’ve never used an RB lens in the RZ. All I know is that you use the RBL setting in the speed dial. But a stuck lens “usually” means the lever is not cranked all the way.
Thank you for your timely response. And I’ve made sure that the lever is cranked all the way. The only other thing I can think of is replacing the battery. But thank you for your words. Love the videos!
Maybe some of the security points got stuck, like if you set it up to RBL and trigger and then changed the speed and cranked and try to trigger again, then change to M mode or Emergency Mode. I guess with a certain combination the camera might be tricked to not release the trigger. Another thing is if the lens has a cable release screw with the red line piping out or if it has the T-N lever switched.
The only way that it will not let you release the lens is because it thinks is unsafe to let you do that because is trying to protect the film. I would move every button and try to figure if something released the trigger from being “busy”. Thank you for the kind words!