Using Mamiya RZ67 Lenses || How To
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2024
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Just for clarification: the socket on the lens is called the Mirror-up socket. Once you screw the cable release into this socket and the red ring becomes visible it means that the camera is in mirror-up mode. In this mode you need to press the main shutter release first which will move the mirror up but the shutter remains closed. After that you press the plunger on the cable release will operate the shutter. Very nifty feature to reduce camera vibrations from mirror slap. Removing the cable release will bring the camera back to normal operation. Of course, you can also attach the cable release to the main shutter release button if you don't have the need to lock up the mirror first (tripod mounted, portrait or macro photography. Mamiya's special two cable release is connected to the lens and the main shutter release button. When pushing the plunger halfway down you will hear the mirror move up and when you depress it fully you can hear the shutter in the lens operate.
Last time I used my RZ67 ProII must have been about 8 or 10 years ago. Your video actually 'forced' me to pull the camera and user manual out of storage and for that I thank you so much. Now I'm itching to go out and get back into the game.
Great channel, keep up the good work.
Thanks, Nico. I always learn something new form you! And enjoy all the RZ67 content!
Thanks! More coming soon, with examples too. Not just gear ;)
Excellent channel, thanks Nico!
Great lens & camera
Thanks a lot!
Ahhh, thank you. A used RZ67 arrived and I was worried the 110 2.8 lens was broken because I couldn't get the blades to open and couldn't see through the camera. Turns out whoever shipped it must have put it back on the camera uncocked. As soon as I took then lens off I was able to get it to open up thanks to this video. Haven't shot a roll yet so I'm not 100% confident it's good to go yet but at least I can see through the lens now! lol. Thanks for the run down.
Cant wait for Rz Body to Rb lenses! Thank you for this!
Will do it asap.
Finally learned about how that blue ring works. Thanks Nico!
You are welcome, its pretty strange to operate but makes sense once you do it once.
@@NicosPhotographyShow Hi Nico, just seen your videos, very informative. I've just inherited a couple of RZ67's and am struggling a bit having only used 35mm before. So the blue ring is just a depth of field indicator? I have a canon A1 which has a nifty feature, you push a lever on the body and you can manually stop down the lens to see the DoF before you take the shot, so handy on close-up shots.
Thank you for making this video!
Glad it was helpful!
also Nico, a tip with this style of M_UP system (K\L lenses for the RB are the same), if the collar won't return to normal, gently pull up on the cable while turning in the lostening direction ( some cable releases unscrew before the M_UP sleive is rotated to 'OFF', and leaves this mode 'ACTIVE' so you are left wondering why won't it fire with the body release?)- it is the spring pressure of the collar helix, pressing firmly onto the thread, pulling up releases this friction, allowing the helix to turn.
You're missing the point re: attaching a cable release to the lens. It's not necessary unless you want to lock up the mirror before your exposure. If you're not concerned with locking up the mirror, you can attach the cable release to the camera.
Nico, another tip, with what you said about the T mode, DO it THAT way, NEVER push the cocking lever to 'shut the shutter', same with the K\L lenses for the RB, push the "B" button, or via cable release, OR take it off T, toggle switch, as you do here, or the SPEED dial, the instruction leaflet in the K\L lens box is quite clear on this point.
Now i know what the T/N setting is for. Excellent informative video as usual Nico.
Thank you! Now to shoot long exposures!
Nicos Photography Show Problem with this and not closing the shutter with that cable release is shaking the camera wile touching the lens. In my opinion this is not perfect.
In long exposures you wont notice it at all.
@@NicosPhotographyShow Btw i have a Fujica GW690II and I'm not sure how can I do a long exposure. Do you have any infos about that Nico ? Thank you in advance.
@@crimsonbehelit i have one too. Should be fairly simple. Will do a video soon.
Nico I've got a question for you that you may or may not be able to help with. I have an RB67 with a Sekor NB 1:38 f = 127 mm lens that will not fire anymore. It's always been a bit slow, when I used fired the shutter it would take ~10 seconds for the lens to fire, but the actual shutter speed was right. Now, after sitting for a few months, it won't fire at all, the leaves inside the lens get stuck. I'm guessing it's some old grease or something inside the lens gunking up the works? But I live in New Zealand and there isn't a soul here who can fix it.
I dare not take it apart myself except as an absolute last resort, so I was thinking about submerging it in ethanol to try and break up whatever grease is in there since I don't think that will damage the camera and, working at a university, I have access to tons of ethanol.
Nice video Nico, I really would like a video about the best starter lenses for the RB/RZ or do you have any suggestions?
Coming soon!
Nico! i really liked your video but i have a VERY easy or complex issue . i have a RZ67 first version , i havent owned an RZ67 lens i borrowed the 110 once and the camera seems that wasnt really responding to the speed , i recently bought an RB lens the 180 mm because being mechanical i taught i could shoot it with out issues of speed because of the lens controlling it .BUT the lens and the camera seem to be in the same "speed " i will say like a average 1/6o basically the mirror speed , i tested the lens on an RB67 Body and it worked and also tested my friends lens 90mm on the RZ and have the same issue . Do you know why this happens ? im ready to swap the RZ67 for an RB67 because its way les complex and i dont want to spend more on RZlenses if the body may be defective . Any advice ? thank you ! (i did also tested the lens being unmounted )
Hi, after I detach my release cable the port which it attaches to on the lens still shows the red ring, and I cannot get the camera to do a normal exposure without the release cable. Am I missing something that is required when removing the release cable in order to get the release port to return to its previous position?
Do you know how the diopter lens for waist level finder work?..mean, if I use glasses to read up close.. which diopter number I need ,if I don't want use glases...-1 or +1
good video Nico, but the 'KNOB' ( on RB67) or this silver collar is the Mirror-up function, when activating this collar what you actually do is disconnect the shutter action from the mirror (operated all the time by the BODY shutter button), and this cable release is operating the shutter ONLY, not both at the same time, however the mirror needs to be actuated first, before the shutter can be fired.
On the right of the lens, there's a black notch that seems to change to amount of light entering the lens. Is this like a variable filter? Does it affect the image or is it just to make to viewed image easier to see in the view finder in bright conditions? Any help on this.
Hi! Thanks for the video. Can I ask if I were to insert the cable release onto the body instead, what will happen?
It will just do the normal shot, all in one. No mirror up, then lens closes, then release lens, etc... so the same as if you shot with your finger (normal handheld shots).
I've been looking for a DOF table for the 110mm. Impossible to find one, which is an issue when shooting at close range (close portraits for example)
Its pretty hard to nail focus at f/2.8, I always shoot portraits at f5.6 or so, medium format does the job really well at that aperture. But if Im doing a full body then its easier to nail the f/2.8. Remember closer focus is even smaller DOF, so f/5.6 is not that bad at all.
Where did you get the stand the camera is on ?
Hi mate. What’s that ballhead?
That T N always scared me
So if you shoot in the no battery position, you will be able to exceed the 1 min. max exposure?
I have to test it but I think you only can do over the 1 minute with the lens cable release operation.
T mode is what overrides the 1 minute max exposure on the body, regardless of battery or no battery setting on the body. The no battery setting on the camera is set to 400th of a second, but can be overridden by screwing in the cable onto the lens and setting the lens to T mode.
Hi Nico , which tripod ballhead you are using in this video
Its a Cambo CH3 or 4. Its made to hold a ton of weight.
6:50 if i forgot my lens open for like... one year.
can it be damanged?
Probably will be fine. But one never know for sure. Try to close it again and use it, if its broken it will be easy to spot.
Where can I buy a 110 for my RZ 67 2.8 lens
I suggest Facebook or Ebay. Some stores like Kamerastore or Keh, but they dont show up a lot.
Hello, Nico (and anyone else who can help)...I'm shooting on my new RZ67 with my 110. My film comes out blank, the camera isn't exposing the film. I dont think theres anything wrong with it, I just think Im missing something. Why is this happening, please!?
That is weird, send me an email with a video of the camera or we can have a quick video chat.
Are you removing the dark slide on the film back?
Couldn't you just put the cable in the shutter and shoot it normally ?
Yes, but sometimes you don‘t want the shake of the heavy mirror.
@@FrankFiene gotcha, makes sense. I suppose if that works then I could use the same cable since and screw it very carefully
You can, but for longer exposures you dont want the mirror slap to vibrate. So that is why you use the lens screw.
@@NicosPhotographyShow got it, thanks Nico. I'm just going to use two different cables on each because those double cables are pricey as heck
So you don‘t have a lens with a floating element, right? Like the famous and sharpest of all, the 65mm L-A.
I do have it. Working on a video on floating lenses alone, 65mm L-A and 50mm ULD. After one on the 75mm shift as its also different. Then the 180mm soft, plenty to come ;)