Dishwasher Repair - Replacing Drain Valve Shaft Seal & Push On Nut (GE Part # WD8X181 and WR2X7054 )
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
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This particular Drain Valve Shaft Seal and Push On Nut is specific to GE manufactured brands including General Electric, Hotpoint, and Kenmore. To find a Drain Valve Shaft Seal and Push On Nut specific to your model, visit www.PartSelect.com.
If your dishwasher is having any of these symptoms, then replacing the drain valve shaft seal and push on nut could solve your appliance problem.
1) Leaking water
Drain Valve Shaft Seal
PartSelect Part Number: PS263930
GE Part Number: WD8X181
Push On Nut
PartSelect Part Number: PS298353
GE Part Number: WR2X7054
Tools used for this repair/replacement:
1) Philips Screw Driver
2) Small flat blade screw driver
3) Needle nose pliers
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Thanks! Helped me keep my old dishwasher running.
Thank you so much for this video! I followed your instruction and fixed my GE dishwasher with the two parts I ordered from ebay. Thank you again!
I had the shaft pull out of the flapper too. I took the pump off and was able to hammer the shaft back on to the flapper and it appears to rotate correctly. I'm waiting for the seal to come so I can complete the reassembly. I guess it really is better to cut that old push nut off rather than pulling on it.
YES. I yanked the entire shaft off as well. Currently trying to figure out if I've pooched the dishwasher.
Thank you Steve.
Just replaced this on a 13 year old dishwasher. Still leaking. Lol hopefully the new gasket will seat better after a couple cycles.
I did this and it still leaks out of the same Spot ! the seal was the same on Both sides ! as it runs I can watch it leak Replacing Drain Valve Shaft Seal did not work for me
Didn't work for me :(. Still leaking.
Re-visitng the video ... I did not notice initially but at 3:44 he mentions a fine rib on one edge of the seal.
Could it be I installed the seal the wrong way ?
Can anyone please tell me when a drain shaft seal needs to be replaced? What is the symptom? My dishwasher is leaking in front of the door. I replaced the side door gasket and it still leaks. Help!
The same thing that happened to Yuri happened to me. I also tried to reinstall the shaft but I know it is not securely in place anymore. Does this mean replacing the pump body or pump and motor assembly? My model is a GSD4800J01WW.
Hi Steve. Thanks for the video but in real life nothing works as in do-it-yourself videos. In my case, when I pulled the push nut, it came out with the axle. I continued, that is, I stuck the axle back, replaced the seal and the push nut, etc. The dishwasher stopped leaking but it also stopped washing dishes. I suspect, the solenoid valve is in the wrong position now and, most likely, it is always open. Do you have any suggestions how to fix this?
Yuri Kripin What model number is your dishwasher?
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The exact model number is nowhere to be found. Probably, there was a sticker somewhere but it is gone now. The model is GE Profile Quiet Power II. Everything looks exactly as in this video
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I found it: GSD4020Z02BB
The axle is splined to the flapper inside the pump body and should not have came out. I suspect that the axle is not firmly attached to the flapper anymore and therefore remains in the drain position. You may have to replace the pump body or pump and motor assembly to correct this. I have some images of what the flapper should look like when in the circulate or wash position with the spring holding the drain valve arm and flapper closed. Please email me at: socialmedia@partselect.com for them.
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The axle came out because there is nothing to hold it in the plastic flapper except for some threads on the metal. There is no push nut or E-ring on the other end of the axle, that's why it came out. And once the axle came out there is no way you can stick it back into the flapper because there is no way you can hold the flapper steady. The whole thing was perfectly designed to be disposable because you can't take the flapper out. However, replacing the motor/drain valve block for $140 (plus shipping) in a 25-years old appliance made no sense to me so I just bought a new dishwasher--which, most likely, was the idea of whoever engineered this thing. You guys should modify your video where you demonstrate taking the push nut off (2:40 to 3:05). The proper way to do it is to hold the tip of the axle with pliers using one hand and pull the push nut up the axle holding the push nut with pliers with your other hand. One should never, ever thrust a screwdriver or pliers between the push nut and valve body.
I wish mechanics would understand the difference between simple and easy. There aren't too many steps here so it's a simple fix with simple tools. But getting the washer unhooked and out and tipped it over isn't that easy. Doing it still hooked up under the counter would be even harder and then working with a small E-clip that can be dropped or come out of your pliers, a push on nut that will resist you as you install it, and a small rubber seal that has to be seated in exactly the correct position or it will still leak water, isn't that easy. Even the instructor in the video struggled with the push on nut and others have commented that the shaft pulled out of the flapper and they have even more problems now. I'll buy the parts and do it but I expect it to be a pain compared to other repairs that I have done. This is coming from someone who works in auto repair full time.
it's not that hard to do
Too bad about your flapper Yuri, especially because some other sources give (factory?) guidance to CUT THE push nut and replace it with a new one. Mine was well-rusted and came off easily, but I think you have to be real lucky to get it off without breaking the flapper loose. So follow the guidance and buy a new push nut when you buy the seal. Also once you have stuffed the seal into the recess for it in the pump housing, it is a challenge to KEEP it in the recess as you are pushing the new push nut on. I held the shaft with one set of pliers, and pushed the nut with another set of pliers. Hope this helps.
Oh and as long as you are in there, I suggest you check for this condition: after years of slight leakage, some of the water made its way into the solenoid center hole, so the armature (the part that moves) was quite corroded and was rubbing against the inside of the solenoid. I SANDED the corrosion off the armature (and I even applied some spray paint because I had some handy) trying to minimize the drag for the armature when the solenoid releases.
Maybe I will get another year out of this dinosaur which has always done an excellent job of cleaning! Thanks for the video PartSelect!
I just successfully installed 1 of these and have a couple of tips. I bought an OEM WD8X181 shaft seal and WR2X7054 push on nut through eBay. As an FYI, when I searched for the part on a Windows 7 PC the lowest price for the part was $15 (same as local parts house) although when I searched on an Android tablet it showed me another eBay supplier with the same OEM part for $10. In any case, as far as tips 1) The instruction video says to make sure that the flat side of the shaft seal faces out. The OEM part that I bought did not have a flat side and both sides were identical. I'm sure that is doesn't cost any more to make the seal so that you can put it in either way so I guess that this is a recent improvement. 2) I replaced the seal without removing the dishwasher which saved a bunch of time. 3) The only challenge was that the new seal was slightly larger than the old seal I removed. The old seal was probably the same diameter originally but was compressed from sitting in the shaft bore for years. It probably took me 1/2 of the total installation time just to work the seal into the hole. If I did this type of job for a living I would have looked for a small length of pipe with the same inner diameter as the shaft hole, worked the shaft seal into the pipe thereby compressing it slightly, put the pipe over the shaft bore and then pushed the seal from the end of the pipe into the bore. Good luck.