Thanks for taking the time and effort to help others do this job properly. I feel more confident tackling this job on my own now. You've got a natural talent for narrating. Best regards.
As our Professor said, I repeat: Before even to start: . Table, with clean blanket, all tools used in an organized way, bolt, nuts in order, .. act as a doctor performing a surgical operation.. You will enjoy working as easy as 1. 2, 3 . Battery removed. . Drain the antifreeze. . Prepare COLORED TAPE and MARK ALL VACUM HOSES, 1..2..3.. as simple as that. You'll save a lot of frustration and headaches. Hats lift up for our Professor for the idea to switch the back nasty bolt to a STUD.. WOW.. What an idea.. I bit everyone that Japanese will get jealous. Watch out: X Plenum and Upper Coolant housing (where the radiator cap is attached) are soft aluminum..easily to be stripped off. Do Not take a chance: Replace both sensors and the harness. Best regards Sir. TWO THUMBS UP.
I just got a P0330 in my 2003 Toyota Avalon and watching your video gave me a lot of confidence to do this remove and replace job by myself. Since I'm in that area anyway and not waste any of my effort, I will do some visual checks of the hidden spark plugs and valve cover. A big thanks from a person here in California.
No need to take off the fuel rails. leave them on. Move the harness rail that keeps the fuel injector connectors and some vacuum hoses away by moving them forward. Then, After removing the plenum, and then unbolting the manifold and taking it off. By the way: I do not replace the 14MM bolt back because it is a royal pain. It doesn't seem to hurt a thing. Don't know why they even have that big of one in the first place. The 12MM on the other side seems like a mount of some kind. The easy way to put them on (if you do) is attach them (and the ground wire in the back of the plenum) first to the plenum BEFORE you lower the plenum in place. I have taken off the and replaced the sensors now 3 consecutive time lately to figure all this out! Takes me 3 hours from start to finish.
Thank you sooo much for this video. Made the job a lot easier for me and removed a lot of fear. The previous mechanic had replaced the sensors but it was the wire harness that was broken and he used zip ties to hold the plugs together. The heat destroyed the zip ties. Thanks again.
Am gearing up for a father/son repair project on a 2002 Avalon - this video is much appreciated. He's up against emissions test deadline and definitely has the dreaded knock sensor codes. I have the Haynes manual, but seeing the action live really helps, as do tips such as the plenum stud. I'm doing the air/fuel sensor and injector o-rings/seals as suggested by one commenter. The car has 150K miles and may become college transport in another year. In ordering parts, Rock, AM Auto and Amazon all seem priced in the ballpark, but one vendor on Amazon currently offers the OEM Denso knock sensors at ~$50/pair, so I'm not going to risk using the old ones. One vendor seems to be promoting a non-Denso true air/fuel sensor at under $50 - not sure yet whether I'll bite on that option.
Completed all repairs successfully and he's back on the road with inspection and sticker good for another year. Parts total under $300 and I splurged on higher and lower range torque wrenches, so well under $400 total. The dealer quoted near $2000 for all the same work, and the inde mechanic $1400, so the 6 or so hours it took us pilgrims was worth at least $1000. Would do the same again! Thank you again for the very helpful video, tips, and ideas for the other items to include for service.
I also have a 2002 Avalon and will be starting this job in the coming weeks. Any advice? Problems you ran into or thoughts on tackling that PIA bolt? lol
Thank you so, soooooo much Sir, I am in the middle of replacing both Knock Sensors and harmess.. I bought all gasket set from our lovely ROCKAUTO..amazingly, I am almost done. Sir, My hat raised to you !
Thank you for taking the time to do this video. Very informative. A few years ago, I paid to have my knock sensors replaced and it cost me over $600.00. The frustrating thing is they did NOT replace the harness. After seeing this I am very upset they didn't as I still continue to get the P0330 and 335 codes shortly after they did the work, now they are constantly on. Now, I am wanting to do this job myself as I did change my spark plugs and there are only a few more parts it appears I need to remove to get to the Knock sensors. But the big question I have for you is: DID THIS FIX YOUR PROBLEM? Thanks It looks like you indicated it did fix the issue.. But I wanted to confirm..
Did this today on 02 Sienna. Took my time and cleaned everything as I went. Bolts on back of plenum and throttle body were not difficult to get out or put in. replaced both knock sensors, harness and bypass coolant hose. I replaced all gaskets. Harness connector was the worst part of the job.
You doing a lot of work that doesn't have to be done I did this on a vehicle not too long ago I didn't do anything like that remove the tree nuts and remove the throttle and put it to the side
I just changed these on my 2003 Camry beater with the v6. Suggest getting new PCV valve, the one that is plastic at an angle because it will not come loose without snapping. Get the grommet as well for it all together $11 from Autozone. Also get a hose the same size as the EGR hose. The one with the green cap on it. That one will snap as well as it’s hard as a rock. Get new gaskets and about 5 cans of carb cleaner to wash off the intakes. Also changed the spark plugs and coils because it’s perfect to do like the man said. I changed the radiator too because it was leaking do that too if you have the same problem.
So glad I found this video. I love that you called out the really difficult parts and offered workable solutions. I'll be waiting for some cooler weather to get under the hood on my project. ;)
Thanks for the great video.. I have a 2002 Avalon for a daily driver and I want it to last and stay in the best condition possible. I have plans to do this repair in the coming weeks
What a great video. I appreciate the time and effort you took to make this instructional video. You were very clear in your presentation. I have a 1999 Lexus RX 300 and it's basically the same thing. I also had the P0330 code. Now, if I could only get a helper. Love that stud trick, oh how much time you have saved many. Again, Thank You !
I learned a whole bunch by first ¼ of your video already, now pausing the video to write comment and 'like' the video. Admire your experience, research and greatly appreciate your suggestions. Priceless! PS: Cool t-shirt!
I got two OEM knock sensors that were still sealed in the original Toyota bags from Amazon for $27. I also got an OEM cable from Amazon for $35. The hose was only a few bucks. If you go through all the trouble of digging your way down in there it makes sense to change everything and not have to go back in there again a short time later.
I've watched a lot of auto repair videos. You do a very good job....a natural teacher - that's a gift, and you have it, Thank you for this video. Daughter is at college 350 miles away. Check engine light is on and AZ showed the knock sensor as the culprit. My question is can she drive it home so I can replace it, or is that to far on the motor? She says it just doesn't accelerate as fast as it was before the light came on. Thanks in advance.
Just in case someone else reads this when the knock sensor code pops up the transmission will not go into overdrive and the ignition timing will be fully retarded. This is done to protect the engine from undetected preignition while the knock sensors are not working properly. When you drive it like this the engine will overspeed if you try to drive it at normal highway speeds so you will have to drive it very slow. What I found is that if you clear the code with a scanner and drive the car no faster than 55 mph the code will not come back and the car will drive normally. But if you drive it over 60 mph the check engine light will come on again. So you can keep driving it this way until you can go in there and change everything.
thanks for the video this is my first avalon 1998 v6 that i got fot free from one of my friends and i will work on it for the first time sending love from Tucson AZ
Very very helpful.. thank you.. its something new to me.. family member have the same problem on her car.. looking forward to replace the knocking sensor..
the hot ticket on these is if the #1 sensor goes out splice the #2 sensor into its ECU input, and if the #2 sensor goes out do the opposite. Your car will run fine until the second sensor goes bad (sometimes forever). This can be done at the harness in the engine bay or at the ECU. Google Lexus knock sensor splice.
I have a 1999 sienna that has a pulsating sound coming from driver side firewall when the key is turned to the on position. Sounds like something pumping fuel. It use to pulse one time and start right up but now it pulses over and over and has a long start coupled with smoke from tail pipe. Any idea what this is? It started this after I changed the fuel filter a while back. And the sound sounds like it's coming from that box above the fuel filter.
Thank you sir for your detail and information you provided. I am doing this on a Highlander with same engine and your tricks and steps will save m and many other nice people trying to save a few dollars e a big headache. Best Regards!!!!
Many thanks !!!! been waiting for a video like this. autoshop repiar estimate $1400. I plan on repairing and replacing many of the parts you suggested when the wether warms up.
Douglas Heffron 1400$...WTH....For this same vehicle? I have a 2003 and they quoted me 260 and the mechanic said while we're at it we should do both...That's 260 for both....That 1400 is insane...And this a shop with a great reputation.
I just pulled a 330 code on my toyota solara and a bank 1 sensor 1 oxygen sensor. Stumbles on acceleration before it actually gets going. Glad its just the sensors
Fairly decent video - but I like the fact that you did not just hack the gaskets - but cleaned nicely. I would definitely like to know in your Vid description - if it fixed your issues or not ?
I am attempting the knock sensor replacement myself, but in looking at the Haynes manual after watching your video, I am curious: did you drain the coolant from the engine drain plugs in addition to the radiator drain, or is that not necessary for what we are doing?
When you release the fuel pressure from the fuel injection rail, did you take out the bolt completely? Or did you tighten it back in after releasing the pressure before removing from the intake manifold?
What size bolt for the back of the intake manifold? I dropped mine and can't see it in that lower engine space below the rear valve body. Also , what thread?
very nice and helpful video. One question. You say you are replacing the fuel filter also. I am being told the fuel filter is in the gas tank. Am I missing something, is there another one between the cylinder banks? Thank you.
Hi if I have a 1997 Toyota Avalon, would the process be the same? It's a front wheel drive car and not sure if it's a v6. The OBD code came out as "P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)". The dealership is charging over $1000 to fix it. Yikes!
Ipmgamer this is a great video. I am hoping this will fix the codes I'm getting on my wife's Avalon. I am interested in knowing if it helped with your issue. Also I would like to know any info you could provide in regards to part numbers. I am in need to get this fix done soon as I need to get it through emissions. Thank you in advance.
Cochip __ as far as i can remember john had to go back in and the O ring in one of the sensor ends because it wasn't going in to the port. I guess some brands are made different i hope you dont have the same problem and im not sure of the part numbers sorry
Good video. Confused? What other sensor? Fuel/Air, actual Knock? Or was the whole problem the Knock sensor wire harness? Thank you. I am facing this job now to.
+914Catfish that's exactly what I was wondering because I was confused as well. if u have any sites that worked for me on the knock sensors for only 16 bucks and the harness for 19
I heard the hom say the Wiring Harness wss aftermarket...however; is the Knock Sensor made by Denso? Would Denso be the OEM Original knock sensoror does Totyota make their own?
I replace my sensor with aftermarket on the v6 1mzfe. Aftermarket is rejected. Code popped right back up. It's worth buy one toyota. I purchased my Toyota sensor for cheap on ebay
Did this solve your issue with the knock sensor? I have the p0330 code for bank 2 i also have a p1354 vvt bank 2 and i wasnt sure if i replace the ocv that knock sensor code would disappear.
Low Budget Creativity I’m confused was it the “new” wire that was faulty or the actual sensor that needed to be replaced that he had to redo it? Please I would very much appreciate it thank you ✨
Nicely done. Although it looks a bit daunting. I have all the parts, but I'm debating paying a mechanic $350 to do it, or save the money and do it myself.
There's two ports where the harness connects into two separate sensors. One of the connectors has a shorter wire and connector and one is longer. Which one do I hook where? I'm curious because I think I did it right but it's still knocking. Maybe I should replace both P0330 sensors? They look the same so should I try replacing these? I'll see if it's throwing the code if I replace that and it still knocks
I hooked the shorter one to the closer port and the farther one to the longer port. I also had a hard time making the connector engage into the opposite side of this. Rock auto's part was not the exact same causing me some frustration and time
Hey there i think you got it hooked up right short end to the closer and long end to the port furthest away and we had the same problem we had to remove the gasket inside of it because it wouldent connect
What was the part number for the gasket kit you got? I don't see it. I'm not doing the knock sensor. I had oil in the cylinder behind the pcv and there was a misfire there. Do I need to do all these steps just to remove the plenum and valve covers?
I don't quite understand where the oil leak is so I'm not sure how to answer your question. Is it the valve cover gasket that is leaking? If so the only gaskets you will need is the valve cover gasket and the spark plug seals as well as the plenum to intake manifold gasket .
I just meant the whole gasket kit you purchased. I didn't see one so I just ended up grabbing the valve cover gaskets with the plug seals and the plenum gasket as well. I took it all apart and cleaned it all up today. Your video was a big help with that.
I was getting a knock sensor code. So I did this repair and changed gaskets for Penlum and also changed engine gaskets. Unfortunately, I only replaced the harness and not the sensor. When I droved car past 50 miles per hour, the engine light came back. I got knock sensor code again. I will have to go in and change the sensor now. My question is, do I need to replace Penlum gaskets again, if car has only been driven less than 10 miles since repair? Please help!!!
The gaskets only needed to be replaced because of age and direct exposure to the many heat cycles of the engine over the years which makes them stiff and brittle. Month old Teflon lined gaskets like those used in the intake manifold here can be safely reused because they are still flexible and pliable, so you should not have any issues reusing the gaskets unless they somehow become damaged during the disassembly and reassembly process again.
have the engine light on w/vsc & trac light on, found a wire back of motor top/wires exposed with fraying, not sure what the wire is, I have a 2003 toy Avalon xls. some of the shelding covers are dry rotted, and clips, anyone can help me please?
Buenas noches tengo un abalone del 2000 tengo problema que cuando el vehiculo arranca arranca vago sin fuerzaspero a los5 segundos coje velocidad no se q puede le agradesco si me pueden ayudar gracias y buenas noches
Amigo, de repente pueda ser el filtro de combustible que esta debajo de la caja de aire (airbox). Muchos diran tambien que limpien el "Idle Air Control Valve" y el "Throttle Body". Por lo pronto eso lo que pienso, pero no soy mecanico, nomas dueno de un Avalon.
I changed my wire harness was a lot of work by myself took 2 hours got it done car ran good but then after a week check engine light comes on same code p0330 so now what do i do .tame apart an change the nock sensor it's a lot of work thanks
I'm about to do the same, I orderes the harness and knock sensors. So I'm wondering if your issue is the knock sensor and not just the wire harness alone?? Hope you got your problem resolved!
For the work being done, it's best to stick with OEM ( which means Original Parts) not some cheap Chinese crap. Use Denso sensors and OEM wiring harness.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to help others do this job properly. I feel more confident tackling this job on my own now. You've got a natural talent for narrating. Best regards.
As our Professor said, I repeat:
Before even to start:
. Table, with clean blanket, all tools used in an organized way, bolt, nuts in order, .. act as a doctor performing a surgical operation..
You will enjoy working as easy as 1. 2, 3
. Battery removed.
. Drain the antifreeze.
. Prepare COLORED TAPE and MARK ALL VACUM HOSES, 1..2..3.. as simple as that.
You'll save a lot of frustration and headaches.
Hats lift up for our Professor for the idea to switch the back nasty bolt to a STUD.. WOW.. What an idea.. I bit everyone that Japanese will get jealous.
Watch out:
X Plenum and Upper Coolant housing (where the radiator cap is attached) are soft aluminum..easily to be stripped off.
Do Not take a chance:
Replace both sensors and the harness.
Best regards Sir. TWO THUMBS UP.
I just got a P0330 in my 2003 Toyota Avalon and watching your video gave me a lot of confidence to do this remove and replace job by myself. Since I'm in that area anyway and not waste any of my effort, I will do some visual checks of the hidden spark plugs and valve cover. A big thanks from a person here in California.
No need to take off the fuel rails. leave them on. Move the harness rail that keeps the fuel injector connectors and some vacuum hoses away by moving them forward. Then, After removing the plenum, and then unbolting the manifold and taking it off. By the way: I do not replace the 14MM bolt back because it is a royal pain. It doesn't seem to hurt a thing. Don't know why they even have that big of one in the first place. The 12MM on the other side seems like a mount of some kind. The easy way to put them on (if you do) is attach them (and the ground wire in the back of the plenum) first to the plenum BEFORE you lower the plenum in place. I have taken off the and replaced the sensors now 3 consecutive time lately to figure all this out! Takes me 3 hours from start to finish.
Thank you sooo much for this video. Made the job a lot easier for me and removed a lot of fear. The previous mechanic had replaced the sensors but it was the wire harness that was broken and he used zip ties to hold the plugs together. The heat destroyed the zip ties. Thanks again.
Am gearing up for a father/son repair project on a 2002 Avalon - this video is much appreciated. He's up against emissions test deadline and definitely has the dreaded knock sensor codes. I have the Haynes manual, but seeing the action live really helps, as do tips such as the plenum stud. I'm doing the air/fuel sensor and injector o-rings/seals as suggested by one commenter. The car has 150K miles and may become college transport in another year. In ordering parts, Rock, AM Auto and Amazon all seem priced in the ballpark, but one vendor on Amazon currently offers the OEM Denso knock sensors at ~$50/pair, so I'm not going to risk using the old ones. One vendor seems to be promoting a non-Denso true air/fuel sensor at under $50 - not sure yet whether I'll bite on that option.
Thanks for this, going to go to Amazon for my knock sensors for that price
Completed all repairs successfully and he's back on the road with inspection and sticker good for another year. Parts total under $300 and I splurged on higher and lower range torque wrenches, so well under $400 total. The dealer quoted near $2000 for all the same work, and the inde mechanic $1400, so the 6 or so hours it took us pilgrims was worth at least $1000. Would do the same again!
Thank you again for the very helpful video, tips, and ideas for the other items to include for service.
I also have a 2002 Avalon and will be starting this job in the coming weeks. Any advice? Problems you ran into or thoughts on tackling that PIA bolt? lol
Thank you so, soooooo much Sir, I am in the middle of replacing both Knock Sensors and harmess..
I bought all gasket set from our lovely ROCKAUTO..amazingly, I am almost done.
Sir, My hat raised to you !
which gasket set was it?
Thank you for taking the time to do this video. Very informative.
A few years ago, I paid to have my knock sensors replaced and it cost me over $600.00. The frustrating thing is they did NOT replace the harness. After seeing this I am very upset they didn't as I still continue to get the P0330 and 335 codes shortly after they did the work, now they are constantly on. Now, I am wanting to do this job myself as I did change my spark plugs and there are only a few more parts it appears I need to remove to get to the Knock sensors. But the big question I have for you is: DID THIS FIX YOUR PROBLEM? Thanks It looks like you indicated it did fix the issue.. But I wanted to confirm..
Did this today on 02 Sienna. Took my time and cleaned everything as I went. Bolts on back of plenum and throttle body were not difficult to get out or put in. replaced both knock sensors, harness and bypass coolant hose. I replaced all gaskets. Harness connector was the worst part of the job.
You doing a lot of work that doesn't have to be done I did this on a vehicle not too long ago I didn't do anything like that remove the tree nuts and remove the throttle and put it to the side
I just changed these on my 2003 Camry beater with the v6. Suggest getting new PCV valve, the one that is plastic at an angle because it will not come loose without snapping. Get the grommet as well for it all together $11 from Autozone. Also get a hose the same size as the EGR hose. The one with the green cap on it. That one will snap as well as it’s hard as a rock. Get new gaskets and about 5 cans of carb cleaner to wash off the intakes. Also changed the spark plugs and coils because it’s perfect to do like the man said. I changed the radiator too because it was leaking do that too if you have the same problem.
So glad I found this video. I love that you called out the really difficult parts and offered workable solutions. I'll be waiting for some cooler weather to get under the hood on my project. ;)
Thank you, this was very informative. Whether I do the job myself, or pay someone else to, I feel equipped with the knowledge.
Thanks for the great video.. I have a 2002 Avalon for a daily driver and I want it to last and stay in the best condition possible. I have plans to do this repair in the coming weeks
Thanks. This helped me replace my sensors and clear my code.
Did you use oem parts?
What a great video. I appreciate the time and effort you took to make this instructional video. You were very clear in your presentation. I have a 1999 Lexus RX 300 and it's basically the same thing. I also had the P0330 code. Now, if I could only get a helper. Love that stud trick, oh how much time you have saved many. Again, Thank You !
I learned a whole bunch by first ¼ of your video already, now pausing the video to write comment and 'like' the video. Admire your experience, research and greatly appreciate your suggestions. Priceless!
PS: Cool t-shirt!
I got two OEM knock sensors that were still sealed in the original Toyota bags from Amazon for $27. I also got an OEM cable from Amazon for $35. The hose was only a few bucks. If you go through all the trouble of digging your way down in there it makes sense to change everything and not have to go back in there again a short time later.
Lucky I put the Dormans on there with a new wire because they were 47% off
I've watched a lot of auto repair videos. You do a very good job....a natural teacher - that's a gift, and you have it, Thank you for this video. Daughter is at college 350 miles away. Check engine light is on and AZ showed the knock sensor as the culprit. My question is can she drive it home so I can replace it, or is that to far on the motor? She says it just doesn't accelerate as fast as it was before the light came on. Thanks in advance.
The car will run slightly less efficiently and won't accelerate as quickly, but will run indefinitely with this issue. It'd be no trouble.
@@Return_to_Roots - thank you . She made it home safely.
Just in case someone else reads this when the knock sensor code pops up the transmission will not go into overdrive and the ignition timing will be fully retarded. This is done to protect the engine from undetected preignition while the knock sensors are not working properly. When you drive it like this the engine will overspeed if you try to drive it at normal highway speeds so you will have to drive it very slow. What I found is that if you clear the code with a scanner and drive the car no faster than 55 mph the code will not come back and the car will drive normally. But if you drive it over 60 mph the check engine light will come on again. So you can keep driving it this way until you can go in there and change everything.
thanks for the video this is my first avalon 1998 v6 that i got fot free from one of my friends and i will work on it for the first time sending love from Tucson AZ
Very very helpful.. thank you.. its something new to me.. family member have the same problem on her car.. looking forward to replace the knocking sensor..
the hot ticket on these is if the #1 sensor goes out splice the #2 sensor into its ECU input, and if the #2 sensor goes out do the opposite. Your car will run fine until the second sensor goes bad (sometimes forever). This can be done at the harness in the engine bay or at the ECU. Google Lexus knock sensor splice.
Will that keep the check engine light off?
What Jay asked
Very good step by step video. Thanks!
I have a 1999 sienna that has a pulsating sound coming from driver side firewall when the key is turned to the on position. Sounds like something pumping fuel. It use to pulse one time and start right up but now it pulses over and over and has a long start coupled with smoke from tail pipe. Any idea what this is? It started this after I changed the fuel filter a while back. And the sound sounds like it's coming from that box above the fuel filter.
Love your videos!!! Please make more for this engine if you can! I have this engine in my es300 no one does any videos besides you!
Absolutely loved the video. Very informative and detailed. Thank you sir.
Thank you so much. I'm preparing to do this job myself and this is the best video I've found on it. Good work.
Thank you sir for your detail and information you provided. I am doing this on a Highlander with same engine and your tricks and steps will save m and many other nice people trying to save a few dollars e a big headache. Best Regards!!!!
Thanks for the video, you are right it save lots monies on this type of this car repairs.
Yep just opened my package and it includes 2 knock sensor and harness...good buy
Many thanks !!!! been waiting for a video like this. autoshop repiar estimate $1400. I plan on repairing and replacing many of the parts you suggested when the wether warms up.
Douglas Heffron 1400$...WTH....For this same vehicle? I have a 2003 and they quoted me 260 and the mechanic said while we're at it we should do both...That's 260 for both....That 1400 is insane...And this a shop with a great reputation.
Thank you! This was a very thorough and informational tutorial.
Great video nicely done. Involved. I'm as poor as a Church mouse so I'm weighing options. Your video helps !
I just pulled a 330 code on my toyota solara and a bank 1 sensor 1 oxygen sensor. Stumbles on acceleration before it actually gets going. Glad its just the sensors
Great video. You speak well. Thank you for sharing this
So, the big question, did it in fact fix the problem without replacing the knock sensors themselves?
I also would like to know.
I'd also like to know, as Im needing to do exact work on my. 2000 Lex ES300.
@@richsmith7309 It didn't work for me. Looks like maybe the sensors are also toast.
Hanes manual directions...
1- disconnect battery
2- remove intake manifold
3- remove sensor
4- installation is the reverse of removal
Very good video, right to the guts of the job.
Thank you.....keep em coming.
Fairly decent video - but I like the fact that you did not just hack the gaskets - but cleaned nicely. I would definitely like to know in your Vid description - if it fixed your issues or not ?
I am attempting the knock sensor replacement myself, but in looking at the Haynes manual after watching your video, I am curious: did you drain the coolant from the engine drain plugs in addition to the radiator drain, or is that not necessary for what we are doing?
The knock sensor video is great. Question, were you having issues with cold starts issues is why you are replacing the knock sensor wires?
When you release the fuel pressure from the fuel injection rail, did you take out the bolt completely? Or did you tighten it back in after releasing the pressure before removing from the intake manifold?
Thanks for making this! You rock.
It would have been nice to show you taking out the actual sensors instead of a pic but
What size bolt for the back of the intake manifold? I dropped mine and can't see it in that lower engine space below the rear valve body. Also , what thread?
very nice and helpful video. One question. You say you are replacing the fuel filter also. I am being told the fuel filter is in the gas tank. Am I missing something, is there another one between the cylinder banks? Thank you.
There are two fuel filters, one in the gas tank & the other on the firewall. The Professor replaced the firewall one.
Hi if I have a 1997 Toyota Avalon, would the process be the same? It's a front wheel drive car and not sure if it's a v6. The OBD code came out as "P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)". The dealership is charging over $1000 to fix it. Yikes!
Ipmgamer this is a great video. I am hoping this will fix the codes I'm getting on my wife's Avalon. I am interested in knowing if it helped with your issue. Also I would like to know any info you could provide in regards to part numbers. I am in need to get this fix done soon as I need to get it through emissions. Thank you in advance.
Cochip __ as far as i can remember john had to go back in and the O ring in one of the sensor ends because it wasn't going in to the port. I guess some brands are made different i hope you dont have the same problem and im not sure of the part numbers sorry
Very informative video. Thank you
thank you for the video! was it successful changing only the wires?
It was successful he had to do the other sensor as well.
Good video. Confused? What other sensor? Fuel/Air, actual Knock? Or was the whole problem the Knock sensor wire harness?
Thank you. I am facing this job now to.
+914Catfish that's exactly what I was wondering because I was confused as well. if u have any sites that worked for me on the knock sensors for only 16 bucks and the harness for 19
+Mike Smith hey guys it was the harness that needed to be replaced it was malfunctioning I hope that answers your question
Thanks for the informative video!
I heard the hom say the Wiring Harness wss aftermarket...however; is the Knock Sensor made by Denso? Would Denso be the OEM Original knock sensoror does Totyota make their own?
Denso is OEM the harness he bought wasn’t denso
I replace my sensor with aftermarket on the v6 1mzfe. Aftermarket is rejected. Code popped right back up. It's worth buy one toyota. I purchased my Toyota sensor for cheap on ebay
Stick with Denso on all sensors!
Great video. Have you seen problems with the engine temp sensor going intermittent on these 2000 Avalons?
Chipmunks got ours!
Did this solve your issue with the knock sensor? I have the p0330 code for bank 2 i also have a p1354 vvt bank 2 and i wasnt sure if i replace the ocv that knock sensor code would disappear.
Same did you solve the problem wit just the OCV?
Great Video, very informative, I'm glad you made this video, as I'm in this process with my toyota avalon as well .
so was it the wire bad or the sensor
?
They did have too change the wire i believe i know he had to redo it so the wire might have been faulty
Low Budget Creativity I’m confused was it the “new” wire that was faulty or the actual sensor that needed to be replaced that he had to redo it? Please I would very much appreciate it thank you ✨
Good explanation. Thanks.
Very helpful, thank you
Nicely done. Although it looks a bit daunting. I have all the parts, but I'm debating paying a mechanic $350 to do it, or save the money and do it myself.
CrazyWedz do it yourself. it is not difficult, just time.
If you don't release fuel pressure would that be a problem?
There's two ports where the harness connects into two separate sensors. One of the connectors has a shorter wire and connector and one is longer. Which one do I hook where? I'm curious because I think I did it right but it's still knocking. Maybe I should replace both P0330 sensors? They look the same so should I try replacing these? I'll see if it's throwing the code if I replace that and it still knocks
I hooked the shorter one to the closer port and the farther one to the longer port. I also had a hard time making the connector engage into the opposite side of this. Rock auto's part was not the exact same causing me some frustration and time
Any advice would be appreciated
Hey there i think you got it hooked up right short end to the closer and long end to the port furthest away and we had the same problem we had to remove the gasket inside of it because it wouldent connect
Anyone know the length or the name of said coolant hose?
What was the part number for the gasket kit you got? I don't see it. I'm not doing the knock sensor. I had oil in the cylinder behind the pcv and there was a misfire there. Do I need to do all these steps just to remove the plenum and valve covers?
I don't quite understand where the oil leak is so I'm not sure how to answer your question. Is it the valve cover gasket that is leaking? If so the only gaskets you will need is the valve cover gasket and the spark plug seals as well as the plenum to intake manifold gasket .
I just meant the whole gasket kit you purchased. I didn't see one so I just ended up grabbing the valve cover gaskets with the plug seals and the plenum gasket as well. I took it all apart and cleaned it all up today. Your video was a big help with that.
that's great news! I'm glad it helped
I was getting a knock sensor code. So I did this repair and changed gaskets for Penlum and also changed engine gaskets. Unfortunately, I only replaced the harness and not the sensor. When I droved car past 50 miles per hour, the engine light came back. I got knock sensor code again. I will have to go in and change the sensor now. My question is, do I need to replace Penlum gaskets again, if car has only been driven less than 10 miles since repair? Please help!!!
The gaskets only needed to be replaced because of age and direct exposure to the many heat cycles of the engine over the years which makes them stiff and brittle. Month old Teflon lined gaskets like those used in the intake manifold here can be safely reused because they are still flexible and pliable, so you should not have any issues reusing the gaskets unless they somehow become damaged during the disassembly and reassembly process again.
Great video however I wasn't quite sure what a RAD something was and you never said this fixed your problem. Did it?
The radiator.
So did it work?
have the engine light on w/vsc & trac light on, found a wire back of motor top/wires exposed with fraying, not sure what the wire is, I have a 2003 toy Avalon xls. some of the shelding covers are dry rotted, and clips, anyone can help me please?
it's behind the intake manifold
Did it fix the issue?
Good video thank you
Thank you, very helpfull
Can you explain how you altered the wiring?
Buenas noches tengo un abalone del 2000 tengo problema que cuando el vehiculo arranca arranca vago sin fuerzaspero a los5 segundos coje velocidad no se q puede le agradesco si me pueden ayudar gracias y buenas noches
Amigo, de repente pueda ser el filtro de combustible que esta debajo de la caja de aire (airbox). Muchos diran tambien que limpien el "Idle Air Control Valve" y el "Throttle Body". Por lo pronto eso lo que pienso, pero no soy mecanico, nomas dueno de un Avalon.
What is that gasket set part number? What is the actual name for that rubber hose?
Coolant bypass
great video
does the upper radiator hose / radiator cap housing have a gasket, that would need to be replaced?
How long does it take for a shop to change knock sensors 2 both on 2001 Toyota Avalon is it 1 hour 2 or 3?
Edgar R if I remember correctly it took John 3 hours to complete the job
Low Budget Creativity
Thanks that’s what I thought, 👍
Thank you so much!!!!!!
After all that, did it stop throwing a Code?
I believe it did sry this was a wile ago
What is the part number of the wire harness?
You don't have to remove the air filter cover you just have to remove it from the hoses
If I may ask, on what did you use the torque wrench on?
The intake manifold, T.Stat and plenum bolts. Double check the Torque specs though.
Low Budget Creativity Awesome. Thank you so much.
how many pounds did you torque those bolts to?
When I talked to Toyota last week they quoted me $30 for the harness. Not sure where I should get the from.
From toyota that is cheap price
MrArm SYPHONf then they wanted $294 each for the sensors. Before tax. Haha.
Sounds about right, toyota are picky, but the harness qoute is cheap
I changed my wire harness was a lot of work by myself took 2 hours got it done car ran good but then after a week check engine light comes on same code p0330 so now what do i do .tame apart an change the nock sensor it's a lot of work thanks
I'm about to do the same, I orderes the harness and knock sensors. So I'm wondering if your issue is the knock sensor and not just the wire harness alone?? Hope you got your problem resolved!
Amazon has the wire and two sensors for 24$
Oh, and I bet they're the highest quality!
For the work being done, it's best to stick with OEM ( which means Original Parts) not some cheap Chinese crap. Use Denso sensors and OEM wiring harness.
I have the same car that consumes the hot fuel when i turn on the air conditioning.
👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
You didn't show where the cable goes?
Привет.руски.яазик.видйо
Video 13:40
You test by banging a wrench on the block.
Bunch yapping
Man you talk to much this video was entirely too long next time get to the point
Attention Deficit Disorder?
At least all the talking was relevant, I've skipped through more then one video of guys rambling on. This wasn't one of them. All good info.
Looks like a hating mechanic shop.
great, very informative video
U talk to much do more......👎