My 2001 Avalon has a little over 433K miles on it and I’ve barely done any maintenance on it other than oil changes. I just did my 2nd transmission drain and refill and the transmission still runs great. I’ve change the spark plugs once and will again when I do the knock sensor replacement. My A/C cools and I’ve never touched it. Every switch still works. I had a Toyota mechanic tell me this model is probably the best Toyota ever built.
@@brianwhite4400 Makes me feel great about my 2004 avalon with 153k miles, sadly it was owned by a teenage girl who didn't maintain it the best. But overall it's still great!
@@BrianBalatbat I might just contact my local mechanic and see if he'll do it for me. Already got the party so just need to pay labor. Then again, it's a 2001 with 245k miles so I might just ignore it and worry about the downstream o2 sensor that has given me a code a couple times.
Sweet video Brian... really well done and easy to follow. The callout on the dreaded 'blind' plenum bolt saved me SO MUCH TIME and frustration! You so rock!
Thank you for the video! It was very helpful! A couple of things that I discovered when taking the plenum chamber off. The 14 mm bolt at the back of the chamber (the one near the firewall) was a real hassle to get out! It took me almost 2 hours to get the thing out because there is so little clearance to get a wrench on the bolt, and the bracket the bolt goes into has flanges that prevent you from using an open ended wrench! When I put it back together I am going to try using a 1/4 inch drive ratchet which is a smaller wrench than the 3/8 inch racket I was using. Also, there is a 10 mm bolt that holds the power steering line to this bracket. If you remove this bolt, you will be able to move the line around so you can get a wrench on the plenum bolt more easily. Another thing that wasn't mentioned in the video is that you need to remove the housing that goes to the coolant bypass hose in order to replace the intake manifold gaskets. In order to remove this housing, you also need to remove the engine stabilizer thing on the left side of the engine. I would also mention that this is a good time to go ahead and replace the rear spark plugs since they are easily accessible once the intake plenum is removed.
why would you need to remove that bolt with the bracket, i recently found that the bolt only secures the bracket for the power steering pressure hose, my avalon is making noise, the dealer said that was the problem, the line or bracket was already loose and i removed it, the line is not yet secure, maybe its the knocking sensor??? anyway it doesnt seem necessary to remove the bolt for the bracket…
thank you for the video, maybe the noise im hearing is the knocking sensors and not the power sterring line like the dealer said, after my car warms up i hear rattling under the hood, computer diagnosed egr valve.
Great vid Brian! You actually streamline and simplify this process. There is another gentleman that does a fairly complicated tear down, depressurizing the fuel system, and removing the fuel rails, etc. he also mentioned that he had to remove the coolant reservoir where you pour in coolant in order to replace the manifold gaskets. Did you replace yours while you were at it, and did you find it necessary to do that? He also drains the radiator, do you think that would help with the coolant that you mention leaking out once you remove the manifold? I’m halfway through the process and got a little held up on the 2 front hex plenum bolts. I had to by an 8 mm hex socket, and use a breaker bar to finally get them loose.
They are no better. Wipers and motor, the vent shield thingy, sheet metal between struts, intake manifold and all associated with it have to come off. All just to get to one bolt. There is no knock to detect - just a bad sensor that would detect a knock. Stupid, IMO.
Great video. Gave me a good idea of what’s involved to see if I want to move forward with this. Seems like it’ll be time consuming, but it’s straightforward enough. Just need patience. And a wrench to get that nut by the firewall.
Thank you for this valuable directional video!!! You have solved the mystery of that 14mm hidden bolt removal off that black bracket in the back!!! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽💖💖💖💖 I've spent seemingly hours looking for the Right Video that shows how to remove that bolt! Only question, How long was that flex head ratchet? I need to get that Plenum intake off to rebuild my injectors. I have P0301 "cylinder 1 misfire". After new plugs, coils, (Coil Swap also with good existing ones) Last thing left is the injector itself. I can feel it clicking/working when it's running. But code and bad running engine persists. If the injectors don't fix this, I'm thinking about the Crank Position Sensor... Thanks ahead of time for answering my question!!
Hi, it’s about the same process for a 96. Take lots of pictures from different angles before you start removing parts so you know what it looks like when it’s time to put it back together. Also don’t buy those cheap knock sensors, most of the time they don’t work.
I have a 96 Avalon with 425K. I'm getting P0330. Parts from Rock Auto are on their way (new hose, connector, gaskets). I'm going to pull and test 2 knock sensors from the junkyard to use and also for practice first. Good luck on your repair!
I recently replaced all the spark plugs without removing the intake. The reason is because I read online that the intake should not be removed unless the car is on a lift. Do you believe this to be true, because I need to replace the knock sensors as well?
I’m not sure how you replaced the plugs without removing the intake. But no you do not need a lift to remove the intake. Carefully follow this video and you should be ok.
Toyota Avalon that’s one of them cars that you just have to walk away from Engine knocking. I seen your video where you had to take the pieces to get to that Part A lot of work was done. I got your message. I’m so glad I walked away from the Toyota Avalon
My 2001 Avalon check engine light has been going on and off intermittently for just over a month with the same 0330 code. The car seems normal otherwise. Would you say it's a bad sensor that needs replacing or an actual knock that I can't detect? Great video, definite sub.
Hey amigo thank for this video you did it so simple and short but understandable. Blessings! Questions ? When you did the job you have to replace the gaskets? Or you don’t need to?
great video, im certain i can remove my air intake, but that bolt for the power steering bracket wont be going back in, lol, how do i know i need knocking sensors, it sounds like the power sterring line is rattling, the dealer said thats what it was, even though the egr valve could be bad to.
Great video dude! One question, is there any sort of fluid in the last hose you have to take off before u could get to the bold for the knock sensor? Cause then I gotta be careful so it doesn't go everywhere
Ok, so this is happening because you got some of those codes, like P0330 or P0325!? I'm just thinking what else could be wrong when a code P0330 is reported, because I don't want to end up with this amount of work and then it was something else and the light is still there. Could be some of the oxygen sensors? I have replaces those in the upstream but the one at the downstream at the catalytic convertor is still not replaced. I'm just thinking if that one could be giving some wrong data for the combustion mix and eventually the knock sensor goes off because of a wrong mix and too rich mix or a lean mix. I believe you know what I mean.
The code it had was p0330, I replaced both of the sensors with new harness and drove it over 300 miles. No codes and no pending codes. If you don’t want to do all the work you can try to bypass it first and see if that fixes your issue.
Are there any gaskets that need to be replaced when I replace my knock sensors? Also, how about the connector harnesses? I will replace them too I suppose. Are the two harnesses different? I see a few different ones on RockAuto.
@@tugginalong yes, replace both of the harness. You can buy new knock sensors that comes with new harness. I would also recommend replacing the intake gasket while you’re at it.
It had a p0330 code so I went ahead and replaced both with new wiring harness. There’s another video on TH-cam showing how to bypass it. Basically just splicing the wires and relocating the sensor somewhere. It shouldn’t do any harm to bypass.
I followed all the steps on replacing my knock sensors as well as reassembly & after i put it all back together and crank the car, there is a loud rattling crunch noise when I start my car and it’s coming from the manifold area? Any suggestions.
Is there a problem once you take intake off and coolant going into engine ? I see coolant filling one of your cylinders, should you just try to get as much out as you can ?
@@BrianBalatbat Thanks for the update man, Hey think the issue is now oil is not getting up to top of engine. Its doing the same knocking noise, you think oil control switch could be it ? About to take valve cover off and look for sludge, think that might be it too.
I had a mechanic replace my knock sensors due to check engine light code. When I got the car back it sounded like crap so now I am being told the cap lifters are the issue. Coincidence???? Nothing was wrong with thecar prior to the check engine light, ugh. Is it possible the mechanic did something wrong or accident while working on the k oak sensors?
Sooo if you didn’t disconnect the other intake you won’t be able to move the upper intake because the screw that’s treaded on the freaking intake literally part of the freaking assembly.. F ing engineers man.. make shit card for no reason
I do not want a Toyota Avalon a guy tried to sell me a car just like that it was a 2003 Toyota Avalon the car the engine had a leak it was smoking. The motor was knocking and somebody else bought that car from him it was not worth $3500 Toyota Avalon was a lemon
My 2001 Avalon has a little over 433K miles on it and I’ve barely done any maintenance on it other than oil changes. I just did my 2nd transmission drain and refill and the transmission still runs great. I’ve change the spark plugs once and will again when I do the knock sensor replacement. My A/C cools and I’ve never touched it. Every switch still works.
I had a Toyota mechanic tell me this model is probably the best Toyota ever built.
At marker 613, you need to warn of that vaccuum line earler. It will break the attached valve if not removed first!
309k rn on my 2001 avalon. trying real hard to get to 500k lol
I also have a 2002 Avalon 225000k runs like bran new
@@brianwhite4400 Makes me feel great about my 2004 avalon with 153k miles, sadly it was owned by a teenage girl who didn't maintain it the best. But overall it's still great!
@@andrewfelldown 341K on mine, hoping for 500K too.
I just wanted to say thank you. Your video really helped me do this job with my dad, man. Everything went smooth and I owe it all to you.
I was just about to walk out to do this but after watching the video, I think I'm gonna wait for a Saturday.
Best to take your time and not rush it. 👍
@@BrianBalatbat I might just contact my local mechanic and see if he'll do it for me. Already got the party so just need to pay labor. Then again, it's a 2001 with 245k miles so I might just ignore it and worry about the downstream o2 sensor that has given me a code a couple times.
@@BrianBalatbat do you know which one is bank 1 and which is bank 2?
Sweet video Brian... really well done and easy to follow. The callout on the dreaded 'blind' plenum bolt saved me SO MUCH TIME and frustration! You so rock!
Not a problem glad this video helped you out. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video! It was very helpful! A couple of things that I discovered when taking the plenum chamber off. The 14 mm bolt at the back of the chamber (the one near the firewall) was a real hassle to get out! It took me almost 2 hours to get the thing out because there is so little clearance to get a wrench on the bolt, and the bracket the bolt goes into has flanges that prevent you from using an open ended wrench! When I put it back together I am going to try using a 1/4 inch drive ratchet which is a smaller wrench than the 3/8 inch racket I was using. Also, there is a 10 mm bolt that holds the power steering line to this bracket. If you remove this bolt, you will be able to move the line around so you can get a wrench on the plenum bolt more easily. Another thing that wasn't mentioned in the video is that you need to remove the housing that goes to the coolant bypass hose in order to replace the intake manifold gaskets. In order to remove this housing, you also need to remove the engine stabilizer thing on the left side of the engine. I would also mention that this is a good time to go ahead and replace the rear spark plugs since they are easily accessible once the intake plenum is removed.
Thank you for this and thanks for watching!
why would you need to remove that bolt with the bracket, i recently found that the bolt only secures the bracket for the power steering pressure hose, my avalon is making noise, the dealer said that was the problem, the line or bracket was already loose and i removed it, the line is not yet secure, maybe its the knocking sensor??? anyway it doesnt seem necessary to remove the bolt for the bracket…
thank you for the video, maybe the noise im hearing is the knocking sensors and not the power sterring line like the dealer said, after my car warms up i hear rattling under the hood, computer diagnosed egr valve.
Thanks so much🙏. Im Currently doing this on an 03 avalon and you just made it so much simpler 👍
This video is soooo useful, I appreciate this a lot man! About to replace my knock sensor right now
Great vid Brian! You actually streamline and simplify this process. There is another gentleman that does a fairly complicated tear down, depressurizing the fuel system, and removing the fuel rails, etc. he also mentioned that he had to remove the coolant reservoir where you pour in coolant in order to replace the manifold gaskets. Did you replace yours while you were at it, and did you find it necessary to do that? He also drains the radiator, do you think that would help with the coolant that you mention leaking out once you remove the manifold? I’m halfway through the process and got a little held up on the 2 front hex plenum bolts. I had to by an 8 mm hex socket, and use a breaker bar to finally get them loose.
"And now for the fun part ...." This is a good reason to only buy 4-cylinder Toyotas.
I agree lol
They are no better. Wipers and motor, the vent shield thingy, sheet metal between struts, intake manifold and all associated with it have to come off. All just to get to one bolt. There is no knock to detect - just a bad sensor that would detect a knock. Stupid, IMO.
Facts
@@836dmar no knock to detect is gonna be my band name
All this just because a check engine light went on , nothing to do with the EPA, move to Tennessee and save money , damned Blue States.
Great video. Gave me a good idea of what’s involved to see if I want to move forward with this. Seems like it’ll be time consuming, but it’s straightforward enough. Just need patience. And a wrench to get that nut by the firewall.
Thank you. Very time consuming but anyone with patience can do it. Good luck and thanks for watching!
thank you for the video, I'm about to replicate what you did, but today we have a heat advisory, so it has to wait
No problem! Yes it’s also very hot here where I’m at. Stay cool and you can do it 👍
Make sure to buy quality and not cheap knock sensors. You know...since Toyota made it so much fun to get to.
Beware of counterfeit Toyota parts on EBay and Amazon!!
Thank you for this valuable directional video!!! You have solved the mystery of that 14mm hidden bolt removal off that black bracket in the back!!! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽💖💖💖💖
I've spent seemingly hours looking for the Right Video that shows how to remove that bolt! Only question,
How long was that flex head ratchet?
I need to get that Plenum intake off to rebuild my injectors. I have P0301 "cylinder 1 misfire". After new plugs, coils, (Coil Swap also with good existing ones) Last thing left is the injector itself. I can feel it clicking/working when it's running. But code and bad running engine persists. If the injectors don't fix this, I'm thinking about the Crank Position Sensor...
Thanks ahead of time for answering my question!!
Recommend draining the coolant or no?
Is it hard to do this on a 96 Toyota Avalon it'll be my first time doing it do you have any pointers new to your channel
Hi, it’s about the same process for a 96. Take lots of pictures from different angles before you start removing parts so you know what it looks like when it’s time to put it back together. Also don’t buy those cheap knock sensors, most of the time they don’t work.
I have a 96 Avalon with 425K. I'm getting P0330. Parts from Rock Auto are on their way (new hose, connector, gaskets). I'm going to pull and test 2 knock sensors from the junkyard to use and also for practice first. Good luck on your repair!
3.0 V6 Toyota engines are some of the most reliable engines and easier ones to work on of all time unless someone gets in the way
I recently replaced all the spark plugs without removing the intake. The reason is because I read online that the intake should not be removed unless the car is on a lift. Do you believe this to be true, because I need to replace the knock sensors as well?
I’m not sure how you replaced the plugs without removing the intake. But no you do not need a lift to remove the intake. Carefully follow this video and you should be ok.
Toyota Avalon that’s one of them cars that you just have to walk away from Engine knocking. I seen your video where you had to take the pieces to get to that Part A lot of work was done. I got your message. I’m so glad I walked away from the Toyota Avalon
It’s not too bad of a bad if you have some experience working on cars. Thanks for watching!
This is not that hard of a repair to do
Wonderful video Dude.................A real Detailed peace.................well done !!!
Good video! What was your symptoms of the bad sensor? Engine light? Knocking sound when tap accelerator at idle?
Thanks! Just check engine light on. No weird noises.
Thanks, Brian. This was a huge help to me.
No problem glad this video helped you!
My 2001 Avalon check engine light has been going on and off intermittently for just over a month with the same 0330 code. The car seems normal otherwise.
Would you say it's a bad sensor that needs replacing or an actual knock that I can't detect?
Great video, definite sub.
Hey amigo thank for this video you did it so simple and short but understandable. Blessings! Questions ? When you did the job you have to replace the gaskets? Or you don’t need to?
Hi, I would recommend replacing the gaskets since you’re already in there. Thank you for your comment.
Great video. What was the issue the vehicle had? did knock sensors rectify the problem?
Thanks! It had a knock sensor code and it did fix it after replacing them
great video, im certain i can remove my air intake, but that bolt for the power steering bracket wont be going back in, lol, how do i know i need knocking sensors, it sounds like the power sterring line is rattling, the dealer said thats what it was, even though the egr valve could be bad to.
You will get knock sensor codes, I’d recommend replacing intake gasket, spark plugs, and both knock sensors and harness if you will do this job.
Thank you & God bless you Brian.
Great video dude! One question, is there any sort of fluid in the last hose you have to take off before u could get to the bold for the knock sensor? Cause then I gotta be careful so it doesn't go everywhere
That's an engine coolant hose, you should replace that hose since you've got everything apart.
Ok, so this is happening because you got some of those codes, like P0330 or P0325!?
I'm just thinking what else could be wrong when a code P0330 is reported, because I don't want to end up with this amount of work and then it was something else and the light is still there. Could be some of the oxygen sensors? I have replaces those in the upstream but the one at the downstream at the catalytic convertor is still not replaced. I'm just thinking if that one could be giving some wrong data for the combustion mix and eventually the knock sensor goes off because of a wrong mix and too rich mix or a lean mix. I believe you know what I mean.
The code it had was p0330, I replaced both of the sensors with new harness and drove it over 300 miles. No codes and no pending codes. If you don’t want to do all the work you can try to bypass it first and see if that fixes your issue.
@@BrianBalatbatbypassing it by splicing the good one to the ecu?
I have a 06 Avalon would the knock sensor be somewhere similar to this car? Haven’t been able to find a clear accurate answer. Thank you
If I had to guess…it would also be under the intake manifold like most v6 Toyotas. Check Toyota Nation Forum if you can’t find any videos for it.
@@BrianBalatbat thank you so much!
Thanks @BrianBalatbat - great video!
Did u change the gaskets or just put back together?
I would recommend replacing the gaskets if they’re old.
How much more work is it to get to the spark plugs on the fire wall side?
Once you remove the upper intake you’ll have plenty of room to access the rear coil / plugs.
@@BrianBalatbat thank you
Are there any gaskets that need to be replaced when I replace my knock sensors? Also, how about the connector harnesses? I will replace them too I suppose. Are the two harnesses different? I see a few different ones on RockAuto.
@@tugginalong yes, replace both of the harness. You can buy new knock sensors that comes with new harness. I would also recommend replacing the intake gasket while you’re at it.
@@BrianBalatbat thank you very much
Should the coolant be drained first? Or is it just a little? Don't want antifreeze pouring allover
You can drain it first or just let it leak out just make sure you clean the area good before putting it back on.
What where the symptoms the car was having to replace the sensors besides a scan code?
And also did you only do the sensor, wire connectors, or both?
And also how do you bypass it?
And is it bad to keep it bypassed?
It had a p0330 code so I went ahead and replaced both with new wiring harness. There’s another video on TH-cam showing how to bypass it. Basically just splicing the wires and relocating the sensor somewhere. It shouldn’t do any harm to bypass.
I followed all the steps on replacing my knock sensors as well as reassembly & after i put it all back together and crank the car, there is a loud rattling crunch noise when I start my car and it’s coming from the manifold area? Any suggestions.
Did you figure out what it was? I hope you didn’t drop anything inside when you took of the manifold.
What was the outcome. I am dealing with same issues
I’m replacing the engine. I probably dropped something in there tbh
Wow! Thank you for showing the knock sensor location. Is this the same location as v6 2001 camry?
Yes it’s the same location.
@@BrianBalatbat is it same with 1999 model
Bro this video was perfect
Glad to hear that thanks for watching
how many miles was on the car?
It was around 200k I think
Thanks!
No problem
Wow that's a lot of work 👍🇱🇷
Not too bad
Is there a problem once you take intake off and coolant going into engine ? I see coolant filling one of your cylinders, should you just try to get as much out as you can ?
Yes you can clean it with paper towel, the rest will just burn right off.
@@BrianBalatbat Thanks for the update man, Hey think the issue is now oil is not getting up to top of engine. Its doing the same knocking noise, you think oil control switch could be it ? About to take valve cover off and look for sludge, think that might be it too.
Fantastic video. Thank you !
No problem thanks for watching!
It's necessary to change the inteck gaskets ?
I would recommend replacing them.
I had a mechanic replace my knock sensors due to check engine light code. When I got the car back it sounded like crap so now I am being told the cap lifters are the issue. Coincidence???? Nothing was wrong with thecar prior to the check engine light, ugh. Is it possible the mechanic did something wrong or accident while working on the k oak sensors?
It’s possible that he did a horrible job, I’d have another mechanic look at it.
What did I hook back up wrong? The car is chugging when I try to restart it.
Make sure all of your ignitions coils are hooked back up
@@BrianBalatbat I never removed the ignition coils. It's turning over but making a really bad noise
How much will a shop charge you for all this work ?
Depends on the shop but I would think between $300 - $600 labor.
@@BrianBalatbat and probably skip putting back that sucker bolt at the end 😁
Really do thanks for you video
No problem and thank you for watching 😀
Which one is 1 and which on is 2
how far are you from corona california :D
I’m in Atlanta Ga 🤣 thanks for watching!
Is it same location with 1999
Sorry for the late reply. Yes it should be the same location.
Do u torque
Salamat kabayan
No problem pare!
Wait so theres 2 knock sensors????
Sooo if you didn’t disconnect the other intake you won’t be able to move the upper intake because the screw that’s treaded on the freaking intake literally part of the freaking assembly.. F ing engineers man.. make shit card for no reason
Yeah it’s a horrible design but it’s doable just time consuming.
Would also recommend replacing both sensors and harness even if it’s just throwing a code for one of them.
Which sensor is bank 2💔🥹
I do not want a Toyota Avalon a guy tried to sell me a car just like that it was a 2003 Toyota Avalon the car the engine had a leak it was smoking. The motor was knocking and somebody else bought that car from him it was not worth $3500 Toyota Avalon was a lemon
sounds like you got lucky not buying it.
My 03 is,horrible trying to sell it lol
No couch payments gent5
Is código p0325
Omg that looks too difficult
It is the same as toyota sienna 1999
Yes it should be the same.
U should sell me this car
It’s already sold lol
Did not need to pull all of that apart. Easier ways do exist.
How will you reach those sensors otherwise?
Cylinder 6 got coolant in it so it a blown head