Hey Top 5 auto repairs I got a question my cars vibrates and stumbles some would that be a good sign of a failing knock sensor no codes. It does it more when warm.
Hi, I've recently come across this problem with my mazda. However I don't get any knocking noise or anything at all. Does this mean I still have a knock sensor issue or could it be somthing else? Thanks
I am getting a knock sensor bank 1 high input code p0328. But only in the morning while starting the car and it goes away when the car is warm. There is a sparking sound like pop corn while starting the car? Should i change the sensor or anything else is damaged? Please help!
I recently replaced the knock sensor in an Audi A3 which cured the issue of poor acceleration although the check engine light didnt appear. I do not understand though why a faulty knock sensor would communicate a knock that isn't there. Should it not just activate if there is an actual knock.
Same with mine. 2012 Jetta. I’m about to do smog so I decided to scan it. Code P0328 knock sensor is showing on my scanner but no check engine light is on. Will it pass smog like that?
@@Jas_01101 A hard one to answer. While the scan tool pointed to a knock sensor in my case, the mechanic told me that the problem may be elsewhere like a faulty coil which was triggering the knock sensor fault. In my case though it turned out to be the knock sensor as its replacement solved the problem and it was only €25 anyway.
@@Jas_01101it all depends on whether the ecm is picking up the fault and advancing or retarding the timing to a degree in which it then is enough to trigger a fault in the emissions system. If it hasn't thrown the "✔Engine" light it likely hasn't adjusted the timing enough one way or another enough to effect the emissions sensors that are detecting the exhaust for unspent or partially burned fuel. Its hard to say when and even if that WILL occur in the future. Could be never, could be in an hour. Your ecm may ride it steady at a level that is just slightly off one way or another. Enough to affect performance to a degree, but not enough to affect emissions output enough to trigger the maintenance light. As far as whether the scanner at the smog shop will pick it up, I'm not sure. It may very well be enough to throw out readings that lead to a failure of the smog check, on the other hand they may not even register it at all. What I do know is that if the light IS on, they will not even test your vehicle, as it will immiediatly fail, even if your emissions readout is well within tolerances. Pretty lame sequence over all as far as I see it as who cares if check engine is on if the emissions readout is within tolerable specs
Have you checked the mass air senor? My car had the same issue I did everything, checked the battery, and the alternator changed spark plugs. I was about to give up until I cleaned out the mass air sensor. It's worked hasn't stalled runs great.
Could be the wire, could be any connectors in the wire run between the ecm (or pcm whichever yours is equipped with) could be the pin connection at the ecm or pcm where the wire connects to the unit and can also be the ecm or pcm is faulty internally itself (usually a board that has internally separated the circuit due to the burning of the board at that exact location) gotta trouble shoot the entire circuit up to the computer (ecm or pcm) if your metering readouts are within spec all the way up to the connecting pin at the computer, the computer itself is toast, the board inside having suffered damage of some sort. Look up "bypassing knock sensor" here on TH-cam for a way to bypass one faulted knock sensor if you have a V block engine by wiring both leads together to the good knock sensor. And no, it will NOT possibly damage your engine to do so. Or you can trouble shoot the entire circuit and possibly wind up needing to replace your entire ecm/pcm which, depending on your vehicle, can get quite spendy
Did you replace the wire harness? Those always become brittle for Yukon. And if I remember correctly, make sure to apply silicone under the knock sensor dust cover. Condensation seems to get inside and rust the knock sensor.
Hot fuel tends to ignite faster and with more volatility than cold fuel. You are probably suffering from predetonation causing the knocking or pinging your experiencing. It may even be present when cold just much, much fainter that you may just not be picking up on startup. Low oil won't cause knocking or pinging as both are caused by ignition timing issues, being either too advanced or too retarded meaning your spark plug is igniting the compressed gasses either too late or too early in the stroke cycle. Low oil will have ZERO effect on this sequence. What low oil WILL cause is excessive heat generated because of lack of lubricity as well s excessive wear for the same reasons.
Which sensor keeps engine running. Car starts on first crank cuts out as it's trying to idle ". 2nd crank it try's to turn over, sometimes it back fire's at start up."
Is this a bad knock sensor or wires P0330 [0x0330] Knock sensor (KS) 2, bank 2 - circuit malfunction Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction Status: Confirmed ----------------------------
Could be the sensor itself, could be the lead (wire) or any number of connectors between the sensor and the ecm. Could be the pin connector where the wire connects to the ecm and it also could be an internal break in the circuit on the circuit board itself inside of the ecm (usually caused by a burned board due to excessive resistance usually caused by some type of corrosion likely caused by moisture infiltration in one or more portions of the circuit run
This was a very thorough explanation & demonstration shows that you really know about car repair!! Thanks for sharing!!✨
Rough idle symptom could be due to clogged idle control valve also
Awesome video. Thank you.
So informal, thank you
Hey Top 5 auto repairs I got a question my cars vibrates and stumbles some would that be a good sign of a failing knock sensor no codes. It does it more when warm.
great vid! learnt a lot
Very good info.Thank you
Nice video. How can a dyi tell the difference between a bad knock sensor and knock sensor harness and the connecting harness to the PCM?
Great video 👍
What happen if you don't replace the sensors and drive the car like that...because I been driving my truck like that for months
Hi, I've recently come across this problem with my mazda. However I don't get any knocking noise or anything at all. Does this mean I still have a knock sensor issue or could it be somthing else? Thanks
I am getting a knock sensor bank 1 high input code p0328. But only in the morning while starting the car and it goes away when the car is warm.
There is a sparking sound like pop corn while starting the car?
Should i change the sensor or anything else is damaged?
Please help!
Very informative vid thanks.
I have a 2004 impala 3.4 base model v6 does it have 2 knock sensors or one thanks
Two
All V blocks, be they 6, 8 or 10 cylinder (and yes even 12) have 2 sensors, 1 for each side (the bank) of the V
I recently replaced the knock sensor in an Audi A3 which cured the issue of poor acceleration although the check engine light didnt appear. I do not understand though why a faulty knock sensor would communicate a knock that isn't there. Should it not just activate if there is an actual knock.
Same with mine. 2012 Jetta. I’m about to do smog so I decided to scan it. Code P0328 knock sensor is showing on my scanner but no check engine light is on. Will it pass smog like that?
@@Jas_01101 A hard one to answer. While the scan tool pointed to a knock sensor in my case, the mechanic told me that the problem may be elsewhere like a faulty coil which was triggering the knock sensor fault. In my case though it turned out to be the knock sensor as its replacement solved the problem and it was only €25 anyway.
@@Jas_01101it all depends on whether the ecm is picking up the fault and advancing or retarding the timing to a degree in which it then is enough to trigger a fault in the emissions system. If it hasn't thrown the "✔Engine" light it likely hasn't adjusted the timing enough one way or another enough to effect the emissions sensors that are detecting the exhaust for unspent or partially burned fuel. Its hard to say when and even if that WILL occur in the future. Could be never, could be in an hour. Your ecm may ride it steady at a level that is just slightly off one way or another. Enough to affect performance to a degree, but not enough to affect emissions output enough to trigger the maintenance light. As far as whether the scanner at the smog shop will pick it up, I'm not sure. It may very well be enough to throw out readings that lead to a failure of the smog check, on the other hand they may not even register it at all. What I do know is that if the light IS on, they will not even test your vehicle, as it will immiediatly fail, even if your emissions readout is well within tolerances. Pretty lame sequence over all as far as I see it as who cares if check engine is on if the emissions readout is within tolerable specs
So I have noise at idle but not when I hit the gas is this still a bad sensor I do have a cel
I changed the knock sensor on mazda demio but engine is still stalling after starting. What could be the problem.
Have you checked the mass air senor? My car had the same issue
I did everything, checked the battery, and the alternator changed spark plugs. I was about to give up until I cleaned out the mass air sensor. It's worked hasn't stalled runs great.
Can it cause transmission problems?
Yes. A bad knock sensor can trip limp mode on a transmission.
I have replaced the knock sensor and still getting reading of sensor and engine light still on what to do
Could be the wire, could be any connectors in the wire run between the ecm (or pcm whichever yours is equipped with) could be the pin connection at the ecm or pcm where the wire connects to the unit and can also be the ecm or pcm is faulty internally itself (usually a board that has internally separated the circuit due to the burning of the board at that exact location) gotta trouble shoot the entire circuit up to the computer (ecm or pcm) if your metering readouts are within spec all the way up to the connecting pin at the computer, the computer itself is toast, the board inside having suffered damage of some sort. Look up "bypassing knock sensor" here on TH-cam for a way to bypass one faulted knock sensor if you have a V block engine by wiring both leads together to the good knock sensor. And no, it will NOT possibly damage your engine to do so. Or you can trouble shoot the entire circuit and possibly wind up needing to replace your entire ecm/pcm which, depending on your vehicle, can get quite spendy
I changed the sensors 5 months ago in my yukon 2004 and now the engine light appears again
Did you replace the wire harness? Those always become brittle for Yukon. And if I remember correctly, make sure to apply silicone under the knock sensor dust cover. Condensation seems to get inside and rust the knock sensor.
The vehicle only knocks when it's hot. What causes it?
Mine too.
Low on oil.
Hot fuel tends to ignite faster and with more volatility than cold fuel. You are probably suffering from predetonation causing the knocking or pinging your experiencing. It may even be present when cold just much, much fainter that you may just not be picking up on startup. Low oil won't cause knocking or pinging as both are caused by ignition timing issues, being either too advanced or too retarded meaning your spark plug is igniting the compressed gasses either too late or too early in the stroke cycle. Low oil will have ZERO effect on this sequence. What low oil WILL cause is excessive heat generated because of lack of lubricity as well s excessive wear for the same reasons.
Which sensor keeps engine running. Car starts on first crank cuts out as it's trying to idle ". 2nd crank it try's to turn over, sometimes it back fire's at start up."
Could be a Crank Position Sensor, or any number of Timing components
Is this a bad knock sensor or wires
P0330 [0x0330]
Knock sensor (KS) 2, bank 2 - circuit malfunction
Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction
Status: Confirmed
----------------------------
Most likely both. The knock sensor can become faulty and the wires and become brittle.
Could be the sensor itself, could be the lead (wire) or any number of connectors between the sensor and the ecm. Could be the pin connector where the wire connects to the ecm and it also could be an internal break in the circuit on the circuit board itself inside of the ecm (usually caused by a burned board due to excessive resistance usually caused by some type of corrosion likely caused by moisture infiltration in one or more portions of the circuit run
Changed the knock sensor and runs well now ☺️
🐀💧🌨️💀