Learning About Fabrics 2: How to Design with Leather
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 เม.ย. 2017
- When you design with leather, it's important to understand the limitations of each type of skin to support your design properly. This video discusses all the things a designer should consider when designing leather garments.
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Can you make all your videos with subtitle ....
I'm probably the minority here but I'm watching your videos to be a better consumer. Big designer brands out there are using cheap materials and selling them for 30× the cost, I wanna spend money on materials, sewing and design, not on logos. Thank you so much for these videos!!
I started that way, but as I learned more and more of what companies used, such as a lot of synthetics in their wool blends and a lot of cheap materials like bad zippers I realized that it doesn't take much to make a piece look luxurious, it just made sense to start making my own stuff. Try it out. Start with a pair of jeans.
Take a pair that fit you perfectly to the fabric store and ask them to give you the same fabric weight and stretch, then it's all copy paste. Jeans are a good start because denim is pretty straightforward to sew and good patterns can be taken from existing garments. They also use minimal to no interfacing so that skips a fairly annoying step. Once you have the pattern, you can continue to use the same fabric weight and vary other components. Eg, a pattern for a single breasted coat can be easily lengthened, the collar style can be change with no change to the fit and the front closure can be made hidden or even a zipper. Super empowering stuff, because good fabrics really stand out against the cheap crap fast fashion chains put out. Good, shiny zippers are also a tame way of differentiating your garment. An existing garment can benefit greatly from some leather binging around seams. Stuff like that.
I get u I have that reason too yet it's modified by my artistic nature and my preference for the sort of group activities involving costumes which I would love to have designs worthy of money so I figure it's going to be hard to make money unless of course I can make enough to create something which WILL BE WORTH A LOT so I can gather the materials time skills and encounter opportunities to become recognized which unless it's worth something it would at least have the ability to attract potential customers
I get motivated by the creativity which I am inspired to make into a meaningful activity with such potential that I could end up meeting people who like yourself are worth a lot to spend time becoming able to do this
I totally get you and I am glad that it's interested me too!!!!!
OMG I’m learning so much about leathers and fabrics from you. Such a great teacher!!!
I am in the curtain and soft furnishing sector, as Zoe says, knowing your fabrics even in interior decorating is sooooooooooooooooooooooooo important!
Cannot stress this fact enough. I have to deal with so many different textures that the designers put together without realizing the consequence or that
the end result may not be what they want, simply because they chose based on the look only. That's because they DON'T know their fabrics!!!!!!!
Right. A friend of mine wanted to get into designing so bad and actually had a few pieces made from her designs. But as I told her, your better off learning some sewing. Each fabric behaves different and may not play with other fabrics or certain ones. Ergo, design items that are not impossible to make
Good morning! Actually, it's midnight in Japan right now. I'll be here until late April, but I'll still be posting. Hit me with your questions! I'll be online for an hour after the video, as usual for my Sunday videos.
Ma'am make videos with subtitles I am also a student of fashion designing from India .... I love your videos but sometimes it's difficult to understand English
Today you are officially my local hero. I have worked with leather in the past. Any information or instruction I have received has been trial and error. An extremely expensive way to learn. The other way is trough tandy leather and I love them but they don't know anything about garment construction. This is very helpful. This is all new information. They defiantly don't cover this in fashion school. That's why I love you.
Happy to help! I didn't learn most of this stuff in school either. I learned working in the industry. I designed at a leather outerwear company for a while.
@@zoehongteaches thankyou so very much for sharing your experience, it's really helpful and I can just keep listening to you and it's always interesting💗
OH! and thank you sooooooo much for these videos. Even though for 30 years, I have worked with curtaining and upholstery fabrics, I have learned a lot.
As a fellow TH-camr and Accessories Designer I'm always searching for more knowledge and information on this subject. Thank you for posting.
You're welcome!
Thank you Zoe for the Learning About Fabrics series. I am learning so much and only up to episode 3.
I’m just now learning about designing, and sewing, fabrics, patterns and the like. I would like to say thank you for taking the time and being so thorough in your explanations.
I love your videos so much!!!! Thank you for these explanations, experiences, and so much more!
Thank you for all the knowledge you drop!!
"This is not going deep down video" *40 mins video posted* haha you're video is always thorough and detailed, keep up the good work, Zoe, thanks for sharing ur knowledge with us all
Oh, I could go on for another 2 hours, easy. My problem is my background is university teaching and I'm used to giving long lectures and it's hard for me to squish them down to suit the attention span of the average youtuber. Oh well, gotta keep practicing... :D
Thank you! This is so informative and practical... so appreciated.
I’m so excited that I found you. You’re an amazing teacher.
Wow, Ms. Zoe!! Another wonderful video. I learned soooo much!!
Thank you!!!🌺🤗🌺
I've been on this earth for 24 years and I'm mad I didn't find this channel sooner
Great presentation chock-a-block full of good helpful info. The closeups work well too. I learned a lot. Many thanks..
Zoe I am Irfan Zahid Peter, people call me gogh because of my thesis topic, it was about Vincent Van Gogh. I was trained as a textile designer from Pakistan (National College Of Arts.Lahore). I really was as a student but wanted to perform as puppeteer and also wanted to paint and explore and I ended up teaching IB visual arts (and I hated it) did puppetry for Sesame Street, did set design, theatre, direction and all to ruine my time, but it taught me alot about alot. God gave me another chance and like I dreamed in this whole time to become fashion designer by studying fashion( which never happened) But now I have got a job as Fashion designer and Thanks to you I learned alot from your videos. God Bless you, I love the way you talk and explain honestly. Thumbs up.Keep up the good work Ma'am.
Thank you for sharing your story with us! I'm so happy for you. You're welcome and good luck with your future.
I will be intouch from now on, thanks for replying
Love your channel - I think this is helping me become a better sewist. Thank you
I absolutely love your videos. Thank you for all the hard work. And I'm not scared of trying sewing leather, I'm better prepared now :)
Love your videos 💕
I’m learning a lot
Keep it up 👍🏽
Thank you for an amazing video once again, Zoe! I watched it a couple of days ago but now I just saw a small piece of leather on my table and thought that maybe a good excercise for those wanting to design in leather could be just buying a bag of leather leftovers and then using them, to create something. I think that could be a difficult task, however, I think it could really help to train the brain to think a lot about the style lines!
Don't think about how difficult it is, just start playing! Fear and worry only hold us back. #ifyourfirstonesucksyourerightontrack
Thank you, lovely tutorial.
Thanks Zoe you are always super helpful and informative.
I learn so much more from you than at college. I always loved leather garments and my goal is designing with leather. Thank you for another amazing video!
You're welcome! Good luck with school!
No hate..but design with something that doesn't torture and kill animals.
I'm loving your videos so much! kisses from brazil
You are an amazing person , teacher, influencer and the most honest and humble person I've probably seen in youtube. You literally reply to each and every comment and that's so nice of you💟 . I am in awe of you and really you are the only person who helped me remember warp and weft!😊 I am a leather design student and i really regretted this because I thought working with leather is difficult and boring , but thanks to you🌸💗 for making me think in a different way. Thank you so much MA'AM!!☺️💟
You're welcome and good luck!
Really interesting!
You are a great teacher I love u ♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️
Can you please make a video on construction of fabrics like Leather, Velvets, Fur...etc (any fabric that is more of a challenge to work with)? Thank you. Love your vids!
Hi! I've learn so much for your videos... I love leather, but I don't have a industrial sewing machine so I'm afraid to even try it. I live in Brazil and my state is the ultimate productor of leather (and beef of course). We have many many many shoes and bags factories... but still the leather goods are super expensive. I talk to a friend who is more in touch with the market and she said: "theres absolutely no reason for the leather cost being that much."
around 15:30 she talks about leather being more expensive because of the cut. it might also be because of the demand within the country. hope this helps!
Thank you so much 💕
Zoe I wanna thank you for all of the knowledge you've gave me, why won't post videos about pattern making ?
Very informative video! It made me think of American Pastoral (great novel btw). It's funny how much I actually learned about leather by reading it...Philip Roth must have done a lot of research on that topic because he just goes on and on about it in the novel....It just got stuck in my head. :)
Really? Now I actually want to read it!
yes, the father of the protagonist (nicknamed the Swede) is a Jewish immigrant who established a big leather factory and throughout the novel there is so much talk about leather...even one funny episode where one of the sons made leather gloves for his high-school crush, worked on them for months but he got something wrong in the drying process so he actually ended up freaking out his crush because she took it the wrong way. She thought he was playing a prank on her....but yeah that novel totally made me appreciate the effort that goes into leather garments.
OMG so good! Now I def have to read it. *scribbles note to self for when I get home from Japan
Good content Zoe. About leatherr garment construction I know thing or two 😉
Very useful
So as educational as this vid is...I have to realistically know...I live in the Caribbean. Leather would make all of us melt. You can't even find leather to wear! Good vid tho! On to the next video!
Yes, but everything I said also applies to accessories like wallets and bags.
I agree with you, stil I have seen allot of people wear leather jackets in Puerto Rico, which is crazy to me.
So true about nappa.
This video actually helped to lower the fear of using leather
This video allowed me to “like”.
Magnificent zoe sharing things u wanna know what clothes designers need from head to toe creating a show
Displaying your own with a bit zest a splash of pizzazz get that process going
hiii zoee thanks for the such an interesting course now i know about leather as i know in my country we use fake ones mostly loool
Hi Zoe, I'm new here. I'm Product engineer in trim covers company for automotive. But I really want to convert to fashion design. So I'm going there slowly. I started by following classes online and checking videos on TH-cam and I find your channel really amazing thank you for your effort and time
Handstitching on leather is very hard on your hands and therefore ill suited for mass production even on a small scale. Seek out a machine embroiderer who works with leather.
Hi! Love your video!Can you please tell me the name of the manifacturer that send you the sample with the reversible(doublesided) leather?
I use envelopes or any paper to make my stencils or rulers. When brush stroking or decoupaging and tolling, it is so easy to tape down and go over with medium. Throw out and everything costs nothing. You are using materials that people consider garbage. I often open powdered laundry soap as deodorizing. Use a box or in a dish. Once it gets hard from removing moisture from the air, it is perfectly fine to use in bath water or in your laundry. I use bottle caps as eyes and nose and mouth on my toys. I also use different size cans as toys. Try one large can as the body for car or body of something, and use smaller cans for legs or feet. Use cans or milk containers filled with water as your free weights. Try squeezing a ball or rolled face cloth to squeeze for tension or to create cuts in arms by squeezing. Try using can as your rolling pin or as a cookie-cutter for round biscuits etc.
Hey Zoe! Loved the video!! Kinda makes me wanna just go to a store for no reason other than to feel the leather lol...Just one question though: In the swatches, the weight (2-3 oz and stuff) is the weight of how much of the leather? Is it like 2-3 oz for a square foot of the leather or....?
Yes
I'd love to learn what types of needles you recommend for various hides. Any sewing trick, like type of seams? Can they be sewn on a standard machine or is an industrial one recommended? Also, have you heard of any companies that source their hides in the U.S.?
So many questions.... :) Thank you again Zoe! You Rock!
You can order special leather needles for your machine that are basically extra shapr, and leather handsewing needles are called glovers. I don't recommend sewing even thin hides on a home machine, as you will sometimes need to sew through 4 or more layers. A standard industrial, like my Juki DDL8700 sews garment-weight leathers just fine. Nothing crazy like thing saddle stuff. For accessories, I would recommend a walking foot machine.
I will watch all,I dropped out of campus and here is syllabus for me
Zoe and fellow party people... Zoe always talks about the future of fashion being in textiles. Have you heard of Modern Medow??? Well now we're going to have a new category in fabric with "Bioleather" made out of collagen 🤯 check them out!!!
Thanks for the tip!
Do you have any tutorials on drawing corsets?
No, but it's in the queue.
thx for video, new to leather and was wondering if you have a video or resource for construction. i mainly work with smaller pieces because of $$$ and to practice but im not always sure how to tell grain. was wondering how you do that. fabrics i can pull threads, leather not so much. thx
Leather has no grain, in the traditional fabric sense. When I talk about 'grain' on leather, I'm talking about surface texture. When you cut leather, work around blemishes and feel around for weird stretched out thin spots.
Zoe Hong oh that totally makes sense...i was totally overthinking it. thx so much for explaining that. i asked at one of the shops i go to and the guy bluntly said 'follow the lines' and walked away lol...i felt so dumb i didnt ask for further explanation....i guess he meant texture. tfs:)
Your red lipstick is beautiful
Hi Zoe, could you make a baloon with the goat suede skin? could it hold air like hydrogen or would it leak? how much does it weigh?
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2 Pages of notes on leather. I do have a question. Can I use my regular sewing machine at home with a leather needle to sew lighter leather weights like lamb or goat? Do you glue pieces together and sew as well?
I sew lighter leathers on my industrial. I have never tried on a home machine. I don't use leather glue.
In your drawing female fashion figures part 4 video, you mentioned a drawing hands tutorial. Where is it on the queue?
sometime this summer.
Zoe Hong Thank you so much! Your videos help me so much!
i love ur videos. ive learned from u already im studying fashion design.
hope ur doing better from that illness in your eyes,. :)
could you talk about constructing a moodboard and dos and donts in it? i have this project, i have to construct a moodboard, and its for an internacional content, and im so afraid of not being selected that im completly frozen about starting. its due in 3 days, i havent started. i havent even thought abt it yet. of course im not asking u to do the video in that time lol, but if u decide to talk abt moods maybe u could also adress this fear if u somehow can relate or like uve seen students go through this. thank you.
I have a whole playlist called Fashion Design Process, including a video on mood boards. Good luck with your project!
ok thank u .
Hi Zoe, would you please tell me, where did you purchase these hides?
Nevermind. I see the card sheet info.
Which skin weighs the least?
I used to not like leather garments but I came across a lot of beautiful designs with leather like super cool pants, long coats that gives a look, an attractiveness to the person. I now think that it looks powerful and elegant at the same time. I would like to design with leather but I am very disturbed by the fact that animals are being killed for their skins and I am doubtful about the sustainability of leather. I wonder your opinions about this issue Zoe, can you share your ideas with us? Thank you very much.
Much like fur, you can kill an animal to use its skin or you can kill the planet by using petroleum products to create fakes. Many vegetarians I know stick to leathers from food source animals like cows. A whole "use the whole animal" point. On the sustainability point, it's important to consider less toxic tanning methods.
I’m very interested and excited to track the progress of these new faux leathers made of mushrooms and fruit peels.
that would be great on shoes
This may be a crazy question....but with all the hunters in Alabama.....do you think there is a place that would process and prep skins to use for sewing that is brought in from individual hunters. I know they will prep skin to just take home but you can’t sew with that. Would they be able to prep it for sewing or does that only happen in large companies with bulk skins to deal with. I Don’t want a hairy ...deer smelling coat....ha!
Tanning leather involves a lot of processes and I don't think it would be profitable to do bespoke tanning skin per skin. It's only profitable because it can be done in bulk.
do you know of any good leather resources to buy from?
I've had good results with Hide House and Italo but it's been a while since I ordered from them. Hide House does retail and wholesale and Italo does only wholesale. But there's a lot of places.
Ooooooo......I think this would definitely be a specialty. Working with something so expensive is going to need someone who works with leather 80% of their time. That comment...the hole is forever once you sew it....you have to really want to sew leather and deep dive into it.
What leather wholesalers do you recommend sourcing from? You can email me if necessary.
💫🌷❤
So I'm curious about this because I thought you weren't supposed to get leather wet. When you say you washed the skins did you just throw them in the machine like a regular pair of jeans?
You aren't supposed to get leather wet because it will alter the texture and color permanently. I did it to see what would happen and to work with it in that state. Yes, I just threw them in a machine.
Awesome! Thank you! I love your videos, they are always so informative and thorough. 👍
could you please make a toutorial on fake leather?
No, because I've never worked with it.
Zoe Hong thx for replying anyway^^
I center all my designs around leather, ive been creating leather products for a long time, i was planning on starting a small business eventually. I am starting to get alot of recognition as of late (which is crazy to me, lol..) i started selling some things, i get lots of compliments from people whenever im wearing my designs and im excited that my work is beginning to take off...I am starting to see that alot of people are commenting on using leather as an unethical material and have commented on finding a substitute material. Someone showed me a wallet they had that was made from cork and it was different to say the least , and of course there's poly leather thats probably not great for the environment, i feel like im going to get beat up for designing with leather!! But its my favorite. Should i not start a business based around it? Am i going to get assaulted by peta? Im not Macdonalds but somehow they throw lots of shade on me because of current opinions...anybody have similar feelings or concerns?
There are always going to be people with very strong opinions on leather and fur. But honestly, there’s no good substitute for them that isn’t plastic. I think that so long as you source your leather responsibly you should be alright
@@TheMaddestHatter234 thank you!
Is it necessary to line a kangaroo pocket on a hoodie? I intend to repurpose an old leather jacket...
Depends on the reverse of the leather. Some skins are finished smooth on the "wrong" side, some skins are not. If it's smooth enough for your hands to touch often without irritation, you don't have to line it.
@@zoehongteaches thank you so much for the feedback. I can't say enough about your channel Zoe!
That lip color tho
PETA where u at? :)))))
*snort
Do fashion designers really not want to learn how to sew now days!? Wtf