There's No Replacement For This Broken Part! - 1968 Chicago Coin GUNSMOKE Pinball Machine Repair #4
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- Thank you to everyone who has been supporting our channel! If you use the link below before you purchase anything on Amazon, we get a royalty for sending you there, thank you!
This is our USA Amazon Link: amzn.to/3qwgVQU
This is our UK Amazon Link: amzn.to/31aKGaC
This is our Canadian Amazon Link: amzn.to/2Ycu5RQ
This is our Australian Amazon Link: amzn.to/34UvvVl
This is our German Amazon Link: amzn.to/3hh2QgI
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Get Merchandise, T-Shirts, Mugs, and links to all the tools and parts we suggest for repairs on our website at www.LyonsArcade...
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
All Music Provided by www.BenSound.com !
See all our other Machines for sale, right now, at www.LyonsArcade... !
See My Brother Donnie's Awesome Channel at : / @mybrotherdonnie
Our store is located at 139 Caldwell St., Rock Hill, SC 29730. - เกม
![The Wall Song ร้องข้ามกำแพง | EP.215 | พาเวล นเรศ - พูห์ กฤติน | 17 ต.ค. 67 [1/5]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IUzrjuf60P4/mqdefault.jpg)
I started watching for help with my Williams Grand Prix, but now I'm hooked. These videos are all fascinating! Go Joe!
"There's No Replacement For This Broken Part!" -- Sounds like the perfect excuse to buy a 3D printer!
Or look up a friend with one. Or try joining the nearest MakerSpace.
Library I read will do for free
MAKE THEM FOR SALE.
GOOD IDEA FOR THIS TYPE OF BUSINESS.
You would want a DLP resin printer rather than Material Deposition as the MDP printers are essentially a hot glue gun with style. If it gets hot enough then it would soften and deform.
Back in the day, if we didn't have something the right size we would make a sleeve on the lathe in our basement that fit exactly over that split part. Or, used solid wire wrapped tightly around it, with epoxy. I sold dad's lathe about 8 years ago. Personally, I would not leave such a loose fit. Those schematics are a very valuable resource. Love the construction of this old equipment.
I am glad there is a company restoring these treasure so they do not hit the junkyards
Thank you Leading Auctions!
What a cool piece of history. LOVE ME SOME PINBALL thank you for sharing.
Thanks Rob we appreciate you hanging out with us!!!
Great job Ronnie, on that copper fitting. Can not beat make shift parts, whatever works. It's coming alive. See you on the next video. You should add the fitting to your parts page.
That's a good idea! Thanks for watching, Frank!
When you first showed the broke hub, I thought of a small hose clamp around it,and super glue,with a set screw thru it.
I think that would work just fine maybe even better...
Plus you can use screw or something, heat it up and press it into the plastic part to reinforce it along the crack.
I've done this before with a small hose clamp with the screw that tightens it, I just put it on and tighten the clamp. I do Rock Olas the same way if the plastic cam on the side of the selector read out splits out. I haven't had any problem with this failing, they are still operating
Sounds good but would the clamp parts interfere?
@@djmips I'd think the only thing you'd have to worry about is the flange unbalancing the wheel or running into something underneath the wheel, depending on clearances.
I thought those paddles were useless being so short. I glad you showed us the ball saver. Thanks for the videos.
When you cut to being in the store with your cart, immediate laugh and like!
I might've brought the plastic cam with me to the store to do the test fit right there in the aisle! ;-)
I didn't think of that, lol
Thank you so much! I was working on a Twinky unit and all of a sudden I had the same issue with the backlights. I had no schematics and spent a long time trying to figure it out. It was corrosion on the fuse!
OMG I remember playing that machine when I was a kid at the Kings Dept store in my town. Wow that brings back memories!
Very cool, this may be the same one you actually played, did you scratch your initials in it or anything i can check for ? :) Thanks for watching Ric!
Thanks for taking the time to share.
Thanks Allan, we appreciate you watching!
Wow, when all those relays kicked in on the first play attempt, it reminded me of an old school telephone exchange.
They're so cool man, the best thing about them is they STILL WORK if you clean them up a little bit! Thanks for watching Paul!
It’s ALIVE! Great hack/fix on the score reel. Thanks for the update!
Thank you for watching Miguel!
It’s just great to see when a plan comes together.
(cue music)
I was born in 1968 and I know how the Gunsmoke feels, over half a century old and well past our prime lol. Great video as always Ron.
Thanks Mr K I'm glad you enjoyed it!
These are the first schematics I learned how to read when I was 12 years old. I assisted the vending machine company owner for free games, credit on the Jukebox and a couple of cherry Cokes when they were a nickel and served in the paper cone inside the steel base as payment. I went on to become an electrical engineer.
I'm going to have to look up those cherry cokes I've never seen that I don't think! Thank you for watching Ricky B!
You could have followed your link to Amazon and got the part. :) I would have tried a hose clamp possibly but your way is a lot neater. Great Video Thank you
I think a Hose Clamp would work just fine maybe even better...
Ron, great video as always. Very clever fix to the cam! A simple way to take up the gap would be to wrap the plastic with a few layers of blue painters tape. Worked on a vintage car distributor.
Good tip, thank you svgalib!
Great finding and diagnostics on that EM😎👍
Thanks Danijel, glad you enjoyed it!
Very cool! I wish I'd found you guys before I tossed my old Joker Poker!
We can fix it :)
Hey Ron, a lot of great ideas to improve your brass ring fitment. I was thinking perhaps a thin shim made from an aluminum beverage can or similar. 👍
Now we're talkin you could shave off the side of a beer can or something and wrap it around :) Thanks for watching Steve!
That’s crazy complicated under the hood. Those wiring harnesses remind me of what’s in my my old Tektronix 453 oscilloscope.
Thank you for watching Vegas Cycling Freak!
It's always really cool to see these old EM's come back to life. I was thinking the same thing as some of the other comments. I am pretty sure that you could get plastic parts like that scoring reel 3D printed. But, to be honest. I really liked the solution that you used with the band around the outside.
The only reason I didn't get one 3d printed is the time it would take waiting for it....
@@LyonsArcade I agree and really, why have one 3d printed if you had a fix for the original
I would see 3d printing as a viable option it if it was really broke like teeth missing or broken in two
Hi Ron, you are doing great! I think I would fill the space between te copper ring and the plastic wheel with 2 component epoxy glue or if there's enough space for a second copper ring I would place 2 copper rings around eachother or solder 2 half rings on the copper ring at the place were the screw comes through for more screw thread.
I haven't seen guts like that since high school! Yes, strangely enough I had Vending machine repair I and II in high school as vocational classes, in Michigan lol.
Damn they taught you something useful :) We had wood shop for a little while but a kid at the other school cut his hand off and they stopped all that crap, lol
@@LyonsArcade I had almost forgot too that it was actually at a nearby school and had to take a bus back and forth (from school to school lmao) every day. Some program where they shared the vocational classes and traded students. Ours (Center Line) had welding and auto mechanics, Lincoln had wood and metal shops and building trades, and Warren Woods Tower had Vending & Business Machines and Cosmetology. The 80's were great for learning, but so much has been taken out of the schools.
_ "...SaWhaa??...seen guts since hi-skool??...shiiot, manigg, I's sawd a lotta guts all up in my hi skool couz...daily...guts be all up in my coco puffs even in the mornings,..gut's flyingz nonstops to F-L-A ho-say..._
_seen, carried, tasted, smelled guts my ntirez Hi-skool careerz mang_
_....all 6 & haf gadang yeers of it mang"_ ~Leon _"Juney"_ Blanton
E.B Abram's HS
Southside Chicago
-PS 133 (Now just memorys)
This is a lot of nice work!
Thank you Brian, we appreciate you watching!
Yea, I know people like the nostalgia of a warm, glowing
incandescent bulb- but I'm a die hard LED lover.
Cool temperature, easy on wiring, any color, thousands of
hours of life, less energy consumption, "blink" off & on,
instead of glow.
I can see an old machine like this, ok- but the "digital"
kind, that used the segmented LED scoreboard, or
even vacuum florescent- LED bulbs in those machines
would probably add a touch of "future" to it.
Thank you for watching!
Have it 3D scanned and then get it 3D printed out of Nylon.
And then put them up for sale :D
RTV silicone mold plus resin. Done.
Molding is also a good idea but cleaning up the part in 3D can make sure you build the new ones without the age warping of the plastic you are copying. Not that it wouldn't still work but it would look nicer.
@@djmips hmm I’ve replicated broken parts and tiny gears with resin / molds and the quality, resolution, strength are insanely accurate. It’s like an OEM part you can not tell a difference from the original. Way better than 3d printing.
Any thoughts on 3D printing the part out of ABS filament?
I think that would work!
@@LyonsArcade Been following this repair. I had a friend do this for my CC Sound Stage which had the same issue about 4 years ago, it's worked great.
It would work, but the fix was a lot easier :)
@@LyonsArcade The good thing is once you have copied and printed one, Then you will forever have the ability to make Chicago Coin replacement cams for future repair projects.
ABS has a melt point of 200C / 392F, it will soften / deform below that. If the cabinet internal temp from the lights / motors / environment approaches that even theoretically it could / would compromise the part, that said, a resin print from a DLP printer wouldn't be affected by heat and would be much higher resolution than a filament / MDP print.
"There's some kind of bonus unit thing here in the middle let's see what they're calling it. They're call it a Bonus Unit, it's here in the middle." I died.
What a great easy repair Ron. So simple but effective. I keep looking at that Tilt plumb bob, isnt that up the wrong way? Cant wait for the next vid.
Yes they have it up on the top, I've seen that before not sure why people do that... it may make it less sensitive but i'm not sure the point...
Since a 3/4 ring is loose, one of the rebel Chicago Coin engineers probably made that plastic 18mm just to screw with people. Either that or it's 23/32 or 47/64 or similar. In the past I've made a few rings on a lathe to fix that kind of split plastic problem. One for a knob on an old vacuum tube tester and one for the rotary time knob on an old microwave. In these cases there was no screw and the inside of the plastic had the flat, so a tight ring was necessary to pull it back together (yep keeping a tight ring is a life necessity). I filed a small lead-in angle at the top of the plastic hub and tapped the ring on with a hammer. I can make my own custom rings because I work at an engineering company as a 1st class machinist :-)
That's what I really needed that day, a 1st class machinist :) Thanks for watching John, yes, I agree with you we need those tight rings!
always like the sound of a relay machine
Curious if a piece of 3/4 pipe would have fit more snug. That coupler was designed to fit over a 3/4 pipe. Still cool way to fix. I was thinking about epoxy and using wire ties to hold together.
Yup wire and epoxy is a classic fix for this. Or a tighter sleeve.
I would have been tempted to use a hose clamp to bring the two halves of that cam back touching, then a light use of Plastruct Bondene to keep them together. Then I would have added the brass ring like you did. I've been slowly repairing some toys from the 50s-70s and it is way better than super glues.
I think that would work great!
That stepper is smooth with a capital SMOO!
Yup, we got it goin' !
It’s not a stepper motor.
Space mountain may be the oldest ride in the park, but it has the longest line😜
WOOOOOO I read earlier the Nature Boy told Vince McMahon to shove it, quit the WWE and now he's going to some other wrestling company, lol 70 years old and he's still got that swag!
@@LyonsArcade Vince McMahon does nothing but exploit his wrestlers..I remember when WCW was still around, Charles Robinson ( who is now a WWE referee) was a protege of Ric flair and he nicknamed Robinson lil natch
@@LyonsArcade He's the man is flair 🎢
This one looks like a real challenge... Keep plugging along... I know you will get it.
Thanks Patrick, we're going to get it!
If I had that part in my possession, I wouldn't mind taking a crack at making a new one using 3D CAD & 3D Printing. Of course, most of it would be made of plastic, but the parts that get a lot of stress would be made of metal. I've made high-stress 3D Printed parts with metal inserts before.
I'm surprised someone hasn't taken the time to make one yet, they break on a lot of these Chicago Coin games, I haven't made one because it's quicker to just repair it but if they were available for sale I'll bet many people would buy one to replaced their hacked original! Thanks for watching Sheriff Jack Carter!
@@LyonsArcade
It would be difficult to get remotely correct unless I had one to measure and compare to. If there truly is a market for these parts, I wouldn’t mind making them. 3D printing is a bit time consuming but something like that would be viable.
Great work!
Thank you Silverian!
What do you use for Contact cleaning 2000 or 1500 Grit sandpaper or something finer? when in the Army (1973-1979) the NCR-500 had a relay rack of around 50 Relays we use 1500 Grit - The one that took a beating was after power was turned off there was one that would ground out the capacitor's along with the bleed resistors. NCR-500 had time delay relays for the cap discharged, turn off the machine and 10 sec later the relay's would kick into discharge. thru a 10 W resistor and these sometimes would burn out. We replaced them with 25 Watts BTW the power filter caps where the size of soda cans (Blue color)
A better solution for you. Use a fuel injection hose clamp. They are available in various sizes, just slip it over the plastic boss after drilling a hole for the screw. You can then tighten it down, it will act like a compression band. There is lots of room under the cam assembly so the clamp won't interfere with anything. I've used this a number of times on "unobtanium" parts. The clamps are wide enough so a screw hole won't weaken it. Still much stronger than the plastic. Very inexpensive too, well under $5.00 for a single clamp. The clamps are available at any auto parts store or Amazon (I personally buy stuff from the local folks when possible, Bezo's has made enough off me already)
Thank you Brad i'll try that next time!
JB Plastic weld would work great for that, or a piece of 3/4 copper pipe would have a smaller inside diameter than the coupling.
I should have took it to the store and I could have tried it there on the aisle :) Thank you for watching Dave!
If you made parts with a resin printer the mechanical strength is equivalent or better and the heat resistance of the material 238 degrees C is equivalent or better to the original parts. Having repaired pinball machines manufactured from the 50s onwards and owning several 3D printers I can envision Pinball restorers utilizing 3D printers in their shops or having access to someone that can make replacement parts for them on an as needed basis.
We'll have to do that eventually for sure. Thank you for watching Ricky!
A piece of 3/4" copper tubing (pipe) would have been a better fit. The 3/4" fitting you used actually has a inside diameter that is 7/8" while the inside diameter of 3/4" copper tube is 3/4".
Thank you Michael
Thanks for calculating my age for me I thought I was 51.
haha we're right behind you man
If I had one of the broken parts here I could design a 3D model for 3D printing. PLA would be mega strong but temperature resistance would be borderline in an old pinball machine, though I'm sure a solid PLA part would work fine despite the naysayers in the comments. Newer materials like PCTG or GreenTEC would handle the heat no problem.
Another solution is silicone casting resin.
Thank you Grumpy Modeler!
I think a 3dprinter would be your best friend.
That is quite challenging pinball machine._
It sure is!
I wonder if the super glue and bicarb soda trick would also help fill in and stabilize those cracks...?
I think it would work great! Thanks for watching Jayy Tee
@@LyonsArcade
No worries bud. Watching from Australia!
I dunno if balance on that wheel is especially important, but you could maybe use a hose clamp as well? That does have the issue of a flange coming off the side, so I don't know if it'll collide with something under the wheel.
I think it would work, there's a big open spot down there for it to spin around in!
@@LyonsArcade Cool! The clearance was something I wasn't sure about...for all I knew, there was a component next to the shaft that it would run to. Look at this way...you could potentially say you repaired a pinball game by going to an auto-parts store! :-)
Have you considered a hose clamp? would remain tight, and is cheaper, and doesn't require cutting.
What's done is done :) Thank you for watching Rob!
@@LyonsArcade Keep it in mind, for 53 years from now! :)
I don't remember this one. This is a really cool old machine
If the plastic is ABS you can reinforce it with acetone or 3d-gloop before you add the copper ring to tighten it better inside the ring
Thank you Bennie!
Can you use de-oxit spray like you would to clear corrosion of old Potentiometer in old radios.
I think you probably could, but I always think it's going to make a big mess... I might try it some day. It's kind of expensive though you might use a couple cans each machine.... but it's worth a try.
I would probably get slightly longer set screw with a stainless steel lock washer and you know down the road that that screw will not come loose on top of what you're also doing. I would try that to see if it worked .
That would probably be a good idea!
Nice job!
I can smell this machine through the video. lol
I picked up a Rock Ola jukebox today off a guy and whew you can really smell that nicotine, haha. Thank you for watching Pete!
I’m thinking if you can work on EM stuff, solid state would be a breeze in comparison ? I’ve seen wiring diagrams on older equipment that is 30 feet long when unrolled lol.
yeah the solid state stuff is simpler in my opinion, and the stuff you learn in EM repairs transfers over since the chips are essentially doing what the relays do....
On the other hand, I would think more EM faults can be seen or felt by manually cycling the mechanism. Plus an accidental short is unlikely to do much more than just blow a fuse in an EM. Ball-activated switches and things like flippers would still work the same way, but if an actual electronic part goes bad it's less likely to be a visibly bad part.
That part was cast in a mold.
Make your own mold from the old part!
Fix the damage, make a mold from the repaired part, cast some new parts.
Once you have a mold, you can make MANY new parts, maybe sell a few!
3d-printing is tempting for this, but making a mold from the old part is gonna give you a 'stylistic match' to the other older parts.
3d printed parts need a design cycle, and sometimes 'new designs' in an old machine don't look right.
It will work, but it isn't exactly a restoration any more!
If you know that appearance doesn't matter, 3d-printed all the way. Quick, reliable fix.
If you are lovingly restoring an old machine and want to give it love, make a mold from the old parts.
Thank you Greg!
Just subscribed, dont have a clue but fun to learn
Thank you Rotaris, we appreciate you hanging out with us!
I would use some silcon putty to make a mould and pour in some resin to make a copy...but that's just me and then I would make loads of spares to sell.
You could probably do that and do pretty well, I don't believe anybody has reproduced them. Thank you for watching Rob!
So...what happens if that score motor hub cracks at the shoulder? That old plastic is pretty darn brittle, even if it's nylon. Too bad they didn't just use a tapered pin. This item also looks to be a decent candidate for 3D Printing a replacement as well. Granted, you'll need a pretty durable resin for it, but I think it's possible.
NEXT CHANNEL *Joe's Classic Video Games 3D Printing*
I might have to do that, lol Thank you for watching Bill!
I might have filled the extra space with some JB weld, but hey this worked well enough for now
That would work pretty good I think, thank you for watching!
@@LyonsArcade yes, it's actually the first thing I thought about, as I once successfully fixed a broken, rigid plastic vacuum cleaner wheel with the same thing. The way it is now, with just a band, it could fracture into smaller bits into something harder to fix solidly. Taking the wheel out and filling the spaces now would probably save ole Gunsmoke a lot of grief. If you can get a wide enough worm gear hose clamp, you would have enough room even to drill a hole to put the setscrew through that, and you could glue the whole thing up in one stage. Otherwise use the worm gear hose clamp to glue up in one stage, remove the clamp, drill out the set screw hole if necessary, and add the copper band and more glue in a second stage (you could grease the set screw too either way to prevent glue adhesion).
as jimmy Hendrix all along the watchtower plays in the background
That's one thing missing from our videos we always play music in the shop but I turn it off when I film so I don't get copyright strikes, I've been trying to leave it on quiet in the background and get away with it for awhile now, lol
I agree with the comment section here. 3D printer then tie it up with a handheld, or stationary, 3D scanner to build you a new part.
That would work, but I fixed this in an hour, how long would it take me to 3D print one from scratch? Thank you for watching DirtCat!
I was expecting the fix to be an adjustable hose clamp, it would have even closed the crack when tightened if you wanted it to :)
Thank you for watching fordgt500ss!
Rock Hill ? I lived there in the late 70s early 80s and remember a pinball and early videogame gallery on Cherry road.
Do you remember where it was? was it in the cherry road mall or somewhere else.... I've always heard too that in the 80's there were a couple bars and gamerooms on our street, Caldwell St. downtown... but I've never been able to figure out if it was in our exact building! Thank you for watching Zaum2002!
@@LyonsArcade I just had a look on google earth and I think it was in that strip mall where Woody's Music is now ? I haven't lived in Rock Hill since 1983- things are different. Ha
At 8:03 there is a hole on the middle platter that could be oil lube thread tapped for a simple set screw,,for a 2nd bite on that motor shaft,,, and, if there wasn't one,, one could be added so long as you have the room and material. Maybe even drill and tap a 3rd set screw,,on the remaining platter wheel hub, depending on the room and material. Needs to be made out of self lubing UHMW polyethylene. It would last another 150+ years or more with just finger switches riding on it.
I think that would work great, thank you Kh40yr!
Just love all the availability jokes. Look at all those carbon arc flash marks! Wow. Hey you could make a 3D printed version of it. (I could). Probably fix it with a hose clamp. You need some reading glasses too. It was almost a full 16th under 3/4 from what I saw. But that fits with copper pipe, which has an ID of 0.785".
Thank you for watching Gary
Use a small hose clamp, that’s what I used to do before I got a 3D printer.
I was thinking of that but I wanted to try Clay's trick on pinrepair.com, he came up with the pipe idea.
A few minutes with even a small lathe and you could whip out a perfectly fitting collar.
Yes sir! Thank you for watching!
3D PRINTER IS CHEAPER FASTER.
@@ronniewall1481 You still have a shitty plastic part. Go with metal on something that is that critical to the operation of the machine.
@@glasslinger YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW THINGS WORK I CAN PRINT PLASTIC THAT WILL PUT PREFORM METAL.
YOU'RE JUST TRYING TO PROVE YOU'RE SMART BUT IT WONT WORK ON ME.
I'VE WORKED WITH THIS STUFF IF NASA IS SENDING 3 D PRINTERS INTO SPACE THEN THEY CSN BE USED FOR OTHER STUFF. YOU JUST WANT TO BITCH PLAIN AND SIMPLE. YOU START WITH ONE POINT THEN KEEP TRYING TO SPIN THINGS.
@@glasslinger YOU DO KNOW THEY CAN PRINT OUT METAL PARTS.
Been looking through Pin-repair for the last hour or so - Been really interesting. Really glad came across you Ch today - Greay watching alll the vifs etc sub and like earned ;)
Thanks Coxy, we appreciate it!!!
You’ll probably say “what accent?” But I find your accent easy to listen to. Greetings from Australia… mate!
Antique cars they been 3D printing part do you think one day they will 3D print pinball parts for vintage games
I think somebody will take the time to scan it and make some replacements, there's a durability issue though because the thing constantly is hitting metal switch stacks as it rotates.
Almost had chicago gaming confused with chicago american Pinball of today.
Which that company made the remakes of attack from Mars and medieval madness and I think universal monsters bash.
Plus hot wheels.
JOES CLASSIC, Can you explain more about what you mint by "ladder Logic" because its used often in EM pinball games Ladder Logic but I'm not sure what is the theory behind how ladder logic works. What is that score motor plastic part called? a Plastic Platter or what is the correct name. I have seen these circular cork material washer looking types that are using in EM pinball games for the spider mechanisms. I'm not sure what the circular cork material washer types purpose are, but do you know why EM games used those circular cork material washer types for the spider mechanism units?
Wayne if you think about a ladder, there are two sides to the ladder, and then the rungs go from one side to another, the ladder logic schematics look like that, you have the two lines that are the voltages on each side, and then the lines connecting between them. I believe that part that we fixed was called the Score Motor Cam, but platter would work too.
I've seen those cork circular pieces on some mechanisms, that have a motor on them, they use cork in that instance because it allows it to spin and gives it a little friction for when the motor is winding down. It's basically used like a clutch.
@@LyonsArcade thanks for the info
The repair works. However if it was me, i wouldnt use a pipe. I would use like a 1/4 inch wide hose clamp that you would use on a engine heater hose, drill a hole in the slots that the tightening screw uses to tighten the clamp on the opposite side of the clamp to make room for the set screw to go thru. Its guranteed tight and will last forever too lol
put a piece of metal tube over the plastic and drill and thread a screw hole into that
Any concerns of galvanic corrosion where the new copper sleeve and screw meet?
No I don't get concerned often :)
@@LyonsArcade I was thinking you were just going to put a zip tie around the cracked part for a 100 year solution.
Not unless this will be submerged in a bath tub.
I have a 1935 Balley's JUMBO payout pin machine that needs some work. Is that something you guys can tackle?
We can work on them a little bit but usually they mainly need cosmetics which were not as good at, or they have parts missing which aren’t easy to find. The mechanics though are very simple!
@@LyonsArcade Not worried about the cosmetics ,they're actually pretty good. I would like to have a more modern power supply and I think there's a bad relay somewhere in there.
Email us Mike and we can prob fix it
i'd have used a adjustable hose clamp to squeeze it back together with super glue and then drilled a hole in the hose clamp for the set screw
I think that would work great! Thank you for watching David!
There is a set screw hole in each platter, in order to not put all the torque on just the bottom platter, you should have set screws in all 3 levels.
I wonder if you could 3d print a replacement cam.
If I could get some dimensions, I could make a 3d model of the platters and then fdm print them out to test it.
Could you remove the screw and chuck it. Doesn't look like the right one anyways. Press together and glue/epoxy back together. use a flexible epoxy wrap around it. let it harden and drill a new set screw hole.If an epoxy wrap wont work try a very small hose clamp. That would also hold it together. Just an idea if you unable to 3D print. Not sure how much torque this would be under but if its not too much this might get you by.
I still use ft & inches, and pounds & ounces, in New Zealand
My Man!
@@LyonsArcade well at 69 yrs old i aint going decimal
3D scanner -> mesh software -> CAD (possible to skip if you just hack around in the mesh software) -> slicer -> 3D printer.
Or you know, hack it together with a copper sleeve.
@@LyonsArcade No actually I think you misunderstood me, I was saying your way was better because it was far more simple. KISS philosophy. I was trying to pay you a compliment. Anyhow, I love watching your channel!
oh sorry, you know it's hard to tell intent on here, thank you WeirdscienceTV I appreciate you....
@@LyonsArcade totally understandable, you’re absolutely right about text. Maybe I could have been more clever and made it less ambiguous. I watched your repair on the asteroids just a few hours ago, then I got sucked into warlords. I loved it!
i think a hose clamp would work.
if you have access to 3d printer you could 3d print a new wheel.
I think it would work, I just wanted to try the fitting trick they showed at www.PinRepair.com ! Thanks for watching ejonesss!
small auto motive hose clamp the one you tighten with a screw driver and some epoxy will have it fixed in a jiffy
I think that would work just fine, thank you Jamie
First thought for a cam fix; pex pipe crimp ring. Second idea; hose clamp.
Pex Pipe Crimp ring, I didn't even think of that that would probably work pretty well once you crimped it, good idea!
No crimping.... just glue to reinforce and "snug-up."
Speaking of pex, gotta run some new water lines.
You could have also used a piece wire and wrapped it around a few times and then twisted the ends with pliers until you got the tension you wanted.
That is how we would repair it back in the 70s, and add epoxy. I would do it the same way today.
I think 3d printing will be a good way to go and then you can make a many as needed
Only issue is it takes so long to get anything like that done when this repair took like an hour...
True but as the Plastic get older it will break more and even that cool repair will stop working
Get it 3-D printed. Plenty of places will measure it up and get it printed up for you. Get it created in a hard plastic.
Thank you Bob!
This is when a guy should be wishing he had a 3D Printer around so a feller could recreate them fiddly plastic bits.
The adapter used is a coupling and has a bigger OD than regular pipe.
A thin piece of fibreglass board with holes drilled in fixes the broken plugs with some epoxy
That would work, thank you Brian!
@@LyonsArcade looks very professional when done. I have done in the past on similar plugs. But sadly never had the fortune to work on a pinball machine. Good videos 👍
What about a pipe clamp? Don't have to worry about dimension so much, just tighten it up with a flat head screw driver.
The 3/4 pipe has a 3/4 inside dimension.
The reducer fits the outside of the 3/4 pipe hence the sloppy fit.
That makes sense, thanks!
@@LyonsArcade You are welcome. Love your videos.
Good job do far.
There is another solution. you can make a metal outer ring with a threaded hole for the set screw an press it fit un the plastic. That way it doesn't matter if the plastic is cracked
Thank you MirceaD28!